Do-it-yourself carved wood table drawings. Original and functional: how to make a wooden table with your own hands
Table for suburban area- not just a piece of furniture, it is a ritual place where all household members invariably gather. In the summertime, no one expresses a desire to go into the house to drink tea or have lunch. Outdoors, the appetite is better and the food tastes better. In order not to carry furniture from home for gatherings, you can make an outdoor table for a summer residence with your own hands, at the same time taking care of the benches.
garden table with built-in bench
The country table does not imply the complexity of the design, so there will be no problems with its assembly, even those far from carpentry and creative works personalities. We will present you some very simple and at the same time original ideas its creation, perhaps, something from the proposed by us, will become a decoration for your site.
Country table material
Diy table for giving: interesting ideas
Conclusion
Photo gallery - do-it-yourself table for a summer residence:
the table for the garden must be durable
Outdoor furniture is subjected to serious tests, so it must be made from durable materials. Specifically for the table, you can take:
- A rock.
- Wood.
- Metal.
- Materials at hand.
The tables from the latter look especially interesting. But first things first.
Wooden table
outdoor dining set
When choosing a material, pay special attention to the type of wood. Board board - strife and for use, in our case, not all are suitable. Soft and easy-to-work conifers, alas, will not work. In addition to the fact that they need special impregnation, because they are too fire hazardous, the resin they release will also spoil the tablecloth and dishes.
The necessary elements must be looked for among hardwood blanks. On the countertop, you need to collect boards with a thickness of 30-50 mm. For greater strength, they are stuffed onto the frame. The legs of the structure can be saddled straight or X-shaped. It is important to process all the details well so that there is no danger of driving a splinter by wiping the table. Mandatory processing of the finished product with protective impregnations.
do-it-yourself folding wooden table in the country
In order to make a table "for ages", cover it with varnish, and do this, as they say, without sparing the brush. The composition must be literally rubbed into the wood, and this will be possible only if you slightly warm it up in a water bath. The lacquer coating is made three-layer.
Stone table
a round table and benches made of stone will serve for more than a dozen years
If you want to make a monolithic structure that amazes the imagination and creates a special mood for meals - try working with a stone. You can create a table of this type for a summer residence with your own hands or buy a finished product. Shops offer a wide variety of granite and marble options. There you can also pick up benches made of similar material in the kit.
to inspire life in old table, it is enough to cover the countertop with tiles
It will not be cheap, but if you really want to have such a luxury in the garden as a stone table, try to make it cheaper. Lay out the benches and table bases yourself. For this, it will do quite well:
- Flagstone.
- Brick.
- Modern blocks.
- Plain cobblestone.
a table made of a stump lined with stone
It will be much easier to fit these materials into the general concept of the garden and combine them in existing buildings. On the table top, seats and backs, it is quite possible to take fake diamond... From this, the composition will not lose.
Metal tables
Those who are "friends" with iron and have a welding machine at hand may be interested in the option of metal furniture. The products are elegant and aesthetic, with openwork decor inserts. The metal table will also need to be protected from early destruction. This is done by priming the metal before finishing painting.
round table for a summer residence with a stone top and curly metal legs
Forged tables will satisfy the needs of respectable owners, but it is unrealistic to make them with your own hands. Such designs are ordered by professionals. Forging requires the conditions of the forge. However, given that products of this type can be wonderfully combined with wood, stone, glass, you can purchase only a forged base for the table, and complete it with a table top yourself.
Diy table for giving: interesting ideas
stylization of the table and chairs for a mushroom meadow will create a certain zest in landscape design suburban area
If you are determined to work on creating a country table yourself and are ready to make it non-standard, look at the "unnecessary" things in each shed. Perhaps there are items among them that can become consumables for creativity.
Assorted assorted
No less practical option country table, along with wooden, metal, rattan, stone products, is a collection of all sorts of things "hodgepodge". This creation will become a multi-colored "character" of your garden and will never be left without attention. What to make it from? You will not believe! The source materials will serve you:
- Broken flower stand.
- Metal barrel cover.
- Scraps of colored plastic or round glass.
set from a bar
Take a piece of paper and try to draw a circular pattern on it in the spirit of the Moroccan style. Enlarge your creation to the size you want. A copier will help you to do this quickly.
We put the resulting blank under the glass and draw the lines with a copper outline. Leave to dry for a day or less. The manufacturer indicates the recommended drying time.
it is enough to decorate the side parts of the bench and chairs with wheels to get the original garden furniture for giving
Now it is the turn of painting the marked glass with stained glass paints. The main thing here is that the colors are evenly located inside the area allotted to them. If you have never worked with specific paints, it makes sense to practice on a separate piece of glass in order to understand how much they need to be taken for high-quality painting of fragments. The completed painting must also be thoroughly dried.
The finished glass can be additionally decorated with elements drawn with a copper outline.
Cover the lid of the barrel with white paint, which will hide the traces of rust, and proceed to prepare the main part of the countertop.
table for giving from vazyanka firewood
The metal part of the flower stand, which will serve as a supporta table for a summer residence, created by your own hands, you need to prime, paint acrylic paint copper colored and partially patched.
After the footboard is ready, glue the places of contact with the glass with a window seal. This is necessary for its better attachment.
Now the final stage. Put all the pieces together: place the glass top in the lid and place the composition on the stand.
It may not be very comfortable to dine at such a table, but drinking coffee in the cool of the evening will be very pleasant.
decorating an ordinary stump with mosaics, you can get an original table
Pallet models
After construction country house You probably have at least a few pallets left, on which packed bricks or building mixtures were delivered. You do not even suspect what kind of lifesaver it is for decorating a summer cottage. With their help, the table will be ready in a few hours, and it will look such that it will not be a shame to put it not only in the garden, but also in home interior... At the same time, note that you will not even incur special financial costs.
pallet table
A do-it-yourself table for a summer residence from pallets can be designed in several ways. For example, for the simplest option, you need:
- Screwdriver.
- Brushes.
- Sandpaper.
- Swivel wheels.
- Colored antiseptic stain.
- Screws.
mobile table for giving from pallets
The first step is to sand the pallet. At the first stage of removing a coarse layer, use coarse-grained sandpaper, fine-grained will be required for final processing. If there is a grinder in use, which is included in the package grinding wheel, use it instead of sandpaper rolls. This will speed up the preparation process.
a master class for making a table for a summer residence with your own hands
Turn the pallet over and attach small swivel castors to the bottom. This is done with conventional screws. For greater reliability of fastening, place under the last washers, which can be removed from similar screws used for working with metal tiles. Do not neglect this advice. The wheel bases have large enough holes, and an unlined screw will not be able to properly fix the part to a wooden surface.
step-by-step process of making a table
Now it remains to open the finished product with a wax-containing antiseptic. If you want to highlight the structure of the tree, use a transparent compound. To add color, you need a stain. You can style the table:
- under the oak;
- larch;
- rosewood;
- nut;
- pine.
A low wide table will be appropriate on the veranda, in the attic room, in the interior of the bath.
without additional processing, the table will last at least two seasons
If you want to make the summer recreation area more comfortable, make not just a table from pallets, but a whole set of country furniture, supplementing it with stationary fixed benches. Such a kit can be made portable and, if necessary, moved from the barbecue, say, to the pool or pergola.
bright pallet table for the whole family
A creative option for a suburban setting will be a pallet, transformed into a countertop and equipped with vintage legs left over from an old chest of drawers, a table, a cabinet. This detail needs to be highlighted with a contrasting color.
You can use this furniture in the bedroom, gazebo, on the terrace.
Coil table
vertical planks allow you to place various items
“The reel is heavy on its own, but it is not difficult to construct a lightweight version of it. a table for a summer residence and again, do it yourself »
A cable reel is also an excellent material for creating a country design. Look at it - this is almost a ready-made table! A little bit of decor and it's ready to use. The easiest way to decorate the reel is with twisted twine. To do this, it is enough just to tightly wrap it around its trunk. The upper disc of the structure is sanded and opened with varnish. If you want to add functionality to the product, install vertical slats around the circumference. They can also be decorated with a rope. With the appearance of the crossbars, you can store the necessary items under the table.
table made of a reel with an umbrella mount
The coil is heavy on its own, but it is not difficult to construct a lightweight version of the table for a summer residence from it, and again, do it yourself. You only need the top disc from the product, which will act as a table top. The frame frame for its installation can be made of metal.
If there is a stump of a suitable height and strength in a shady garden, then it can also be transformed into an improvised table with the help of a spool disk. This idea will be good not only for a playground, it can be rationally used when organizing a relaxation corner for adults. By sawing a wooden disk in half, it will be possible to assemble original chairs, which can also be put on hemp legs. You will get a good garden set.
the table from the coil can be decorated with any pattern
Firewood table?
Why not? Such a brutal option can be a decoration for a barbecue area and even a living room. Work is nothing at all. We find an old thick log, saturate it with stain and level the lower part, giving stability to the product.
a table on wheels from a tree stump
The mobile hemp table is no less easy to manufacture and attractive in design. By the way, its functionality can be expanded if you are not too lazy to sew a foam rubber seat on it, which will allow you to transform the structure into a comfortable pouf with a slight movement.
Chopped firewood is not in short supply in the country. Of these, it is also not a problem to quickly build comfortable design tables for giving with your own hands. Assemble the flat base and secure the chipped blocks to the countertop with a strap. Put it all on its feet and enjoy communication with primitive nature to the fullest.
table for a living room from an old log
Garden arrangement of tires
Take your time to get rid of old tires. They can be used to make a magnificent landscape decor with extended functionality: use the table not just as a table, but a pouf next to it not only as a pouf, but to equip inside them a place for garden tools, for example.
table and chairs are made in the same design style from old tires
Paint the tires in an acceptable color for you, dry them, fold them in a column, fastening the elements silicone sealant or another suitable composition.
Now take care of the table top and seat. The first is a good idea to make from durable plastic or cut them out of wood. For a pouf, also cut out a plywood disk of a slightly smaller diameter than that of the tires, glue foam rubber to it and cover it with a cloth. Detachable parts are ready.
Boiling table
movable table made of old vyvarka with a wooden top
Did you find grandmother's vodka in the bins? Fabulous! Let's transform it into a mobile warehouse table. We equip the bottom with wheels, and for the upper part we assemble a tabletop from the boards. Having cut the boards to size, we collect them together into transverse strips, the length of which should correspond to the diameter of the boil. This will help the table top to hold tightly in place, and not to slide to the side or topple over at the slightest load. There will be enough space inside the makeshift table to organize a mini-bar.
By the same principle, you can transform empty boxes, barrels, etc. into useful items.
original table with large metal wheels instead of legs and built-in benches
Conclusion
As you can see, assembling a table for a summer residence with your own hands is a very exciting and absolutely laborious activity. Here, even beginners will not have to be afraid, to spoil something, because objects and elements that are initially unusable for direct use go into work. Try your hand at something unusual for you. Perhaps the final results will become an incentive not to stop at what has been achieved, but to go further. From the presented materials, you can make many more unusual and necessary things in a summer cottage!
Photo gallery - do-it-yourself table for a summer residence:
In the context of modern small apartments it is quite difficult to give free rein to imagination and purchase pieces of furniture that would suit everything. Among other things, it is quite difficult to find such interior elements that would be attractive not only in design, but also in price. These two problems can be solved by the method self-made wooden furniture... This could be, for example, a table. You can complete it by preparing all the necessary materials and tools. This piece of furniture can be used both in the kitchen and in the living room.
Preparatory work
In order to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare some materials. You will need a furniture board, the thickness of which is 19 millimeters. This material is highly durable and looks very attractive. Shields on preparatory stage it will be necessary to mark, and then cut out the blanks from them. It is important to stock up on the necessary fasteners for assembly. Thus, it will be necessary to prepare 6 boards, which will make up the lower support. Their size is 19 x 100 x 965 millimeters. There will be 4 legs, their dimensions are 19 x 215 x 680 mm. The molding of the legs in the same quantity will also come in handy, but the dimensions of these elements should be 1938 x 470 mm. The worktop will be supported by workpieces with dimensions 19 x 125 x 610 mm. A wooden table for a gazebo with your own hands can be made in the same dimensions. The foreman has to prepare two dowels for the legs with dimensions of 10 x 32 mm. There are also two lintels with dimensions 19 x 140 x 1100 mm.
Additional elements
You will need a steel tie in the amount of two pieces, its size should be equal to 150 mm. The table top will be limited to the following dimensions - 19 x 1020 x 1900 mm. The worktop plank must be cut in two pieces and measure 19 x 19 x 1750 mm. Screws, washers, ties, as well as dowels will be used as fasteners.
Instrument preparation
It will be impossible to make a wooden table with your own hands if you do not stock up on an electric jigsaw, a circular saw, a hacksaw, a drill with drills, a plane, a milling machine, a file, clamps, and a brush. To fasten the parts, you will need carpentry glue, you can process the wood with sandpaper. The table will look good if treated with polyurethane varnish, which can be glossy or matte.
Manufacturing technology
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, then you need to know that each supporting structure contains 3 blanks glued together. An opening must be formed in the central part. Immediately you need to cut 6 elements for two supports. Next, the master must make straight cuts using a circular saw. The corners should be rounded. In two blanks, it is necessary to cut the central part so that the groove falls on the central part of the support. The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the spike in the leg. This will eliminate the loosening of the structure during swelling and drying.
In the next step, you can glue the supports. After applying the glue to the surface of the parts, they must be folded so that the upper edges are flush. Clamps will provide reliability of fastening. After the supports have dried, it is necessary to get rid of excess glue. After the clamps are removed, the lower and upper edges need to be cut.
Work on the legs
When making a wooden table with your own hands, you need to prepare four legs. After the vertical edges must be stitched and rounded with a milling machine. At the ends of long blanks, it is necessary to mark and then cut out the thorns, placing them below and above. This can be done using a circular saw, which must be equipped with a combination disc. After the moldings have been cut out and brought to the required dimensions, you can round off all 4 edges. On the back surface of the moldings, it is necessary to make glue grooves.
Support work
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, a photo of the structure will help you decide what features this piece of furniture will have.
The next step is to cut out the blanks for the supports. For gluing, select a 10 mm groove in each piece. It is preferable to perform these manipulations immediately. In order to simplify the task, it is necessary to prepare a cardboard template, marking the location of the grooves on it. Then you can make a pairwise gluing so that the kerf is located in the central part. Everything must be tightened with clamps. Once the glue is dry, you need to clean the cuts with an emery cloth.
Installation of legs
If a wooden table is made with your own hands, the photos must first be reviewed by you. It is important to initially fit all joints without the use of glue. On the wider edges, the joints should be tight. It is necessary to provide a gap of 1.5 millimeters on the side to compensate for changes in the size of the wood. When edging, these elements will be decorated.
The walls and spikes must be treated with glue, after which you can proceed to pairing the legs with vertical supports. Without waiting for the glue to dry, you need to make holes and reinforce the connection with dowels. If you decide that you will be making a wooden table with your own hands, it is recommended to prepare the drawings at the initial stage. For the legs, cut the moldings to the required length. They need to be glued and pulled together with clamps. The glue is applied, and then it is left until it dries.
If you decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, the drawings can be borrowed from the article. The lintel should be installed high, so that those sitting at the table do not touch it with their feet. It is necessary to glue using two strips, which are pre-edged with molding.
After the glue is dry, you need to remove the clamps and then remove the chamfer. Holes must be made on the short sides to accommodate the fasteners. The table top can be made independently, its dimensions may differ from those presented above. At the ends, you need to select the spikes using a jigsaw.
Further, the cuts are cleaned with a file. Along the long edges of the workpiece, it is necessary to install strips, which are attracted by clamps and dried. Using an edge cutter, you need to align the edges of the moldings. They should be fixed to the slats, and then dry and clean the joints with a grinder.
When a wooden table for a summer residence is made with your own hands, the drawings will make it possible to understand how the tabletop and legs are connected. To do this, use U-type brackets. On the long sides of the base, select quarters to secure the sidewalls. The ends of the last elements need to be rounded and cleaned. After that, everything is glued together and compressed with clamps, and then left until dry.
Final work
Before making a wooden table with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of the work. At the next stage, with a deviation from the edges of the base by 100 millimeters, it is necessary to make holes, the diameter of which should be equal to 20 millimeters. A through groove should be placed between them. Holes are required to keep the base from splitting. If you are going to make a wooden table for a summer residence with your own hands, the drawings should help in carrying out the work.
Now the master can assemble the table, for this it is necessary to fix the jumper to the legs. Using a pencil, mark the position of the legs so that they are perpendicular to the ends of the lid. Brackets should be installed according to the marking. In the worktop, you need to make 10 holes for installing the screws. Then you can strengthen the brackets. A washer must be placed under each screw, this will compensate for the shrinkage, this is the only way to make a folding wooden table with your own hands.
You can change the technology and size of the table at your own discretion. However, it must be remembered that the design should be as strong and reliable as possible. It is important to protect wooden elements from the negative effects of the external environment, especially those pieces of furniture that are supposed to be used in the kitchen or outdoors.
The interior of any apartment, house or summer cottage is absolutely impossible to imagine without such an important element as a table.
And although it is not a difficult task to pick up in furniture showroom table of any size, shape, design and design solutions, it is still much more interesting to do it yourself.
Firstly, it is much more economical, and secondly, you will not only enjoy the creation process, but also guaranteed to achieve the desired result - the shape and dimensions that are ideal for your room. Consider the process of making solid wood with your own hands.
First of all, you need to define your goals.
Advice... The choice of wood for the countertop will depend on what functions your table will perform, how strong it should be, and what characteristics of structure and color should be.
Pine, spruce, alder... The main advantage of these types of wood is their low cost. In addition, they have a uniform structure and are therefore very easy to process. However, their safety margin is not very high.
Oak, beech... These are the options with the most durable wood. If your priority is durability, then oak is the best choice.
It looks very beautiful in section, and the oak countertop will be very heavy. Moreover, the cost of the material is relatively high. Beech is also distinguished by its high strength, it is somewhat cheaper than oak, but practically does not have a relief pattern.
Ash... In structure, it is practically not inferior to oak, although it does not look so luxurious. Its main advantage is the variety of the color palette.
Birch, larch... Also representatives of hardwood. Their processing is somewhat more complicated, but moisture resistance and strength are at the highest level.
Drawings
Many people think that the presence of a drawing when making a table is not at all necessary. But still, in order to avoid inconsistencies of the future finished product with the intended goals, it is better to spend a certain amount of time and protect yourself. Building a drawing is necessary for at least two reasons:
- When you decide to make a table, you, of course, think in advance about what functions it will perform and where it will be placed. Dimensions (edit) and the shape of the table is, of course, determined based on the availability of free space. But besides this, you need to take into account such nuances as a comfortable space under the table for the legs, the distance from the chair to the wall, etc. In order to organically fit your table into the interior of the room and ensure its maximum functionality, you need to have a clear idea of its size. And in this matter, you cannot do without a drawing.
- In addition, although at first glance, the table is not very complex design, the probability of making a mistake in the manufacture of any part, nevertheless, exists. To prevent this, a drawing will come in handy - a visual reflection of the table components on paper with indication of all sizes.
Advice... If you do not have a certain experience in drawing, you can always pick up a ready-made drawing on the Internet. In this case, you will only have to change some parameters, adjusting it to the functions of the table you need and the conditions of the interior.
Tools
In order not to be distracted during work by the constant search for the necessary tools at hand, the entire tool should be prepared and laid out in advance. Approximate list what you might need looks like this:
Manufacturing
Important. Before starting any carpentry work, it is necessary to prepare the wood: carefully grind and treat all surfaces with an antiseptic: solid worktops, boards for the frame, table legs.
- Making a frame... The frame is a rectangular base that connects to the table top and serves to fix and stabilize the legs.
- We turn the tabletop over and measure a few centimeters horizontally and vertically from the corner of the tabletop inward. We make the same marks on the other three corners of the tabletop. The marks should be at the same distance from the corners;
- We draw connecting lines. As a result, you should get a rectangle (or square, depending on the shape of the table top), inscribed in the center of the table;
- Cut off four pieces of wood so that their dimensions exactly coincide with the lines drawn on the underside of the tabletop;
- We glue the frame to the table top and install the clamps. To strengthen the structure, in addition to gluing, the frame should be screwed on.
- Making legs... To do this, we make four bars of the same length, indicated in the drawing. We glue the legs to the frame and table top so that there is no empty space in the leg-frame and leg-table top connections. We leave it to dry for a while and fix the legs with self-tapping screws at an acute angle to the surface of the board.
- After completing the main work, go to processing... All sharp edges of the table top and legs must be sanded by hand. Then we evenly apply varnish to the entire structure. A transparent or colored lacquer will not only protect the table from unwanted external factors such as moisture, but also accentuate the natural pattern of the wood. It will look very impressive if you paint some parts of the table with paint.
Sometimes, in order to increase the durability of your product or to make the table brighter appearance, surface varnished(or paint) again.
In this case, remember that the second coat of varnish or paint can only be applied after the previous coat has completely dried. You should not rush, it is better to wait a few extra hours, but be sure that you do not spoil the almost finished table.
- the first time after varnishing and painting, try to avoid moisture and direct sunlight on the surface;
- even after the varnish has completely dried, do not leave the table outside in the rain or at low temperatures;
- keep the surface clean, treat it in time with special cleaning agents, polish it periodically.
Photo
You can style the resulting result in the style of the following photos:
Useful video
A great example showing all the stages of the process can be seen in the following video:
Conclusion
Based on the above, we can conclude that making a wooden table with your own hands is not so difficult. Especially if we are leaning towards the option with a ready-made solid wood worktop, because in this case, the "scope of work" is significantly reduced.
In contact with
A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in the carpentry craft. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is simple enough and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is too small in size. Buying custom-made furniture made of solid wood is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and design your own "work" yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or a gazebo of a suburban area. If you have at hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for the job
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use ordinary, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- A plane with which the wood is leveled and the parts are driven to the desired size.
- Sampling chisels different holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws of various sizes and modifications with which to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Set of screwdrivers.
- Clamps for temporary fixing of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for sanding.
Many of the instruments can be replaced with more modern and convenient instruments:
- The electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.
Jigsaw rating - The sander will help to make the surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sanding.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help to round off sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes tightening each self-tapping screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The building level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
To prevent the finished furniture from being "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level An easy-to-manufacture table for a summer cottage
Make a similar country table- everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too much is required wooden blanks... You need to prepare the following:
- Beam, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Joiner's glue.
- Board, size:
- 1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal elements of the frame);
- 850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse parts of the frame);
- 1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for side frame elements);
- 950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface... If it is planned to "darken" the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of the textured pattern, they are carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the soaked raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the indentations.
Mounting a garden table
When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.
Frame or "box" of the table - The first step is the details of the countertop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, are laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the layout of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will take place by the tapping method.
The connection of elements can be done in different ways:
Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners - using a steel angle - this is the simplest and reliable way;
- the cut-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of tongue-and-groove connections - "groove-thorn" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen who have no experience;
- the connection with dowels is shown in f) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.
- All connections are usually made with glue. The only exception is the butt joint of the parts with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly adjusted right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building angle and measuring and comparing the length of the diagonals.
- If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also glued and fixed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which should be sunk in the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next stage is the transverse sheathing of the table top with 950 × 100 × 25 mm boards. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The overhang of the worktop above the frame must be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the outer boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the caps of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, grooves with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these grooves, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking the boards when installation works, through holes must be drilled.
- After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is to install the legs - The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the caps of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made of carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty is used to fill the grooves above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire worktop, and especially the places covered with glue "plugs", must be well sanded.
- After that, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decoration or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in summer cottage, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for a table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a double-sided roomy bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a table top that is large enough for a child, sitting at it, to do their homework.
- In addition, there is space on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you put a soft cloth on its surface.
Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.
Required materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make up it. The list of required blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Scheme of a table with numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge) | Part No. in the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Manufacturing material, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding part of the table top. | 1 | 600 × 600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top. | 1 | 600 × 475 | Multi-layer plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530 × 30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120 × 30 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove, limiting the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122 × 30 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Slot element for leg movement on folding table top. | 2 | 530 × 20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | Slot element for the movement of the leg on the table top of the cabinet. | 2 | 120 × 20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The bottom end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122 × 20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table unit. | 2 | 720 × 520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | The horizontal details of the curbstone forming the shelves. | 3 | 520 × 312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | The lower vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition. | 1 | 418 × 312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition. | 1 | 312 × 184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the curbstone. | 1 | 310 × 250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477 × 346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310 × 250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | The front panel of the drawer of the curbstone. | 1 | 346 × 209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | Drawer front panel (located behind the front panel). | 1 | 418 × 312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341 × 250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Drawer back panel. | 1 | 272 × 120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Drawer bottom panel. | 1 | 341 × 272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Drawer handles and cabinet doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg element. | 1 | 80 × 80 × 18 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for joining two parts of a worktop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture hinges for the door. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the curbstone. | 2 | 20 × 300 × 5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The figures show a drawing of the table, on which you can rely in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for the movement of the leg (clickable illustration - click to enlarge) For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electrical tools that can bring the workpieces to professional perfection.
Find out how to do with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-pedestal
It is worth starting the manufacture of a table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact cabinet.
| Illustration | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | The first step from plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut out workpieces for the tabletop, measuring 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm. |
 | Further, on the larger panel, marking is carried out - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done with a jigsaw or circular saw by attaching the appropriate compass attachment to it. |
 | Further, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will be joined to the second part of the tabletop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are placed on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top. Furniture hinges may have different shape, therefore, they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes with self-tapping screws. |
 | After hinges of the two parts of the table top, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, a marking is made to fix the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint between the two parts of the table top. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a router: 530 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm -1 pcs., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on both sides, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the guides, are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the table top, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed on glue, and then the longest strips with a size of 530 × 20 mm are screwed on with self-tapping screws, then a piece of 122 × 20 mm overlaps the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed on with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the tabletop and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the screwing points of the self-tapping screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and ideally evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made on lathe... If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, using a dowel and glue, a square guide plate made of plywood with dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm is fixed exactly in the center. |
 | Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, you can carry out minor adjustments and improvements. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of plywood. After that, the finished countertop is laid aside and proceeds to the manufacture of the curbstone. |
 | The elements of the curbstone do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough on MDF or thick plywood panels to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table and carefully cut them with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge band, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which the furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. The holes are made in the same way as in the worktop using a router, but in this case the router can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be positioned at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is imperative to carry out a thorough marking. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the wall of the door is joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. For this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to fix the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the curbstone are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and a brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically pleasing, but also protect the material from the negative effects of a specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, assembly can be carried out on a flat table, and for ease of installation, the pedestal is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - last option the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, after assembly, the caps of the self-tapping screws will have to be masked with various compounds. The build process is as follows: - Place the bottom panel on the supports. - One of the side panels is set on it according to the level and with the help of the building angle, and its location is marked with a pencil. -At the same time, the location of the fastening parts is outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing center wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and end faces of the side panels for installing the dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, the places for installing the shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, brackets-shelf supports are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable lintel shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing to work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure is well dried. To make the cabinet stiffer, it is laid on its side and squeezed with clamps for the duration of drying. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and in the marked places, holes are drilled in their end to install the fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls to the bottom. |
 | The sidewalls are twisted between themselves using self-tapping screws, the caps of which are recommended to be sunk into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sides with self-tapping screws from the inside. You will need two corners on each side. |
 | When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sidewalls of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed on from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended to use glue in addition to self-tapping screws for fixing the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries in the center facade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the combination of the cabinet and the tabletop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the tabletop must be correctly positioned. The part of the channel located on the stationary installed panel of the table top should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The worktop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm. |
 | Having secured the tabletop, proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and will fit perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Due to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove yourself in carpentry, then you should not postpone making it yourself. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also a very pleasant one, especially at the moment when the work will be successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another one is offered interesting option round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: example of assembling a round table
And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, can be realized independently by a skilled owner:
Video: lightweight kitchen table of collapsible design
Dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, to breathe Fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda at the table made for giving with your own hands. Such a table will not only add special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.
Option 1. Table with legs
When choosing materials for the table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers such as spruce and pine are malleable and easy to work with, but without proper treatment, such material is more flammable, and the resin emitted can ruin the tablecloth.
Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.
| Wood species | Brinell hardness) | Density (kg / m3) | Stability | Color change trends |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Birch | 3,0 | 600 | average | the color gets deeper |
| Larch | 2,6 | 500 | good | takes on shades of gray |
| European oak | 3,7 | 700 | good | the color gets deeper |
| 4,0 | 700 | average | light to straw, yellowish brown | |
| Pear | 3,3 | 680 | average | blushes |
| Cherry | 3,0 | 580 | good | from light pink to deep reddish shade |
Materials and tools
For interior arrangement summer cottages and country houses long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to freely move around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything you need for work and designing the table itself.
For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden boards measuring 30-2000 mm.
Balusters or wooden beams for the legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. Comfortable height table is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.
Other materials and tools.
- Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
- Wood putty.
- Screwdriver and self-tapping screws for 30 and 50 mm.
- Various grit sandpaper and holder.
- Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
- Electric drill.
- Sander.
- Building level.
- Square.
- Roulette or centimeter.
- Marker.
- Glue.
Prices for various types of construction timber
Construction beam
Manufacturing steps
When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, grinder or coarse sandpaper to remove irregularities, remnants of cut knots, and clean up cracks. Boards must be flat and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including ends, edges and corners.
If it is supposed to be manufactured with a one-piece shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a more durable adhesion of a single sheet and save time for adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the legs for the legs.
Assembling the frame for the countertop
The frame helps to strengthen the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions completely depend on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the table top.
Video - DIY garden table
The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards, which form the outer frame, and 6 inner transverse slats. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with self-tapping screws 50 mm. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent the boards from splitting, pilot holes can be drilled into them and only then the screws can be screwed in.
Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude, but are completely "sunk" in the wood.
Table frame (manufacturing option) The boards of the table top are connected, leveled with a tape measure and laid on the floor face down, the frame is placed on top so that the cross bars lie tightly on the table top. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the strips, and all elements are tightened with screws by 30 mm. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each transverse board.
Assembling the table legs
The table top is laid on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of the legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.
Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if you wish, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws from the front side of the table, and square ones - with corner fasteners.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Finishing
After mounting the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawn off along the radius with a jigsaw or the butt is completely rounded off. Chamfers can be cut from the edges of the countertop and everything can be carefully sanded.
If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired with wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads in order to be able to tighten the structure.
After the final grinding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.
Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But hiding the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will do the whole necessary work to protect the product from moisture.
Video - Table on legs for a summer residence
Option 2. Stump table
An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When improving the territory, old trees or trees that threaten buildings are often cut down. If at your dacha there is or was just such a tree, then definitely there will be no problems with finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.
Materials and tools
To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need very little:
- wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you need to adhere to the rule "the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board";
- stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any type of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp or rotten. If the tree has been cut recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it's best to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry place or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that a few weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. Typically, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the state of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark leaves without effort, then you can start working;
- water-based varnish for wood, natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
- sandpaper of various grit and holder;
- planer or sander;
- chisel;
- building level;
- roulette;
- hammer and nails;
- screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
- abrasive fiber.
Manufacturing steps
Stage 1.
The dried workpiece of the future table must be cleaned of the bark. A chisel or chisel is useful for this step. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. Any soft and rotten areas should be removed as well.
Stage 2.
After the bark has been removed, the stump needs to be aligned with the horizontal plane. For this, a level surface is prepared using a level, and the base of the future table is installed on it.
If curvature is observed, then the flaws are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work with a hacksaw, unnecessarily large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off, the sections from which are then sanded.
Stage 3.
The leveled stump is sanded with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard-to-reach places are processed with coarse-grained sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment in time.
Stage 4.
Cracks and grooves in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris with a chisel, after which sandpaper folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper should be carefully processed from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.
Stage 5.
To prevent the stump from rotting and to ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of the legs will make it more convenient to move the table.
You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.
Stage 6.
After installing the legs, proceed to the sheathing of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top there are two more rows of holders - a total of 6 strips fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.
Stage 7.
We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse strips. The shape of the table top can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The variant of the table with a round or oval tabletop looks more advantageous.
To give this shape, you can use homemade device from a thread, a pencil and a nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the table top, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all unnecessary is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the table top are processed with a grinder.
Stage 8.
Holes and defects of the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing them again after drying with a grinder to smooth the surface.
The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with nail holders or self-tapping screws.
The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.
After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. If desired, after drying, the last layer can be treated with an abrasive fiber - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.
Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.
Prices for paints and varnishes
paints and varnishes
Video - Do-it-yourself table for a summer residence from a stump
Beech is quite often used by furniture manufacturers, as it is a hard breed, which is quite plastic and durable. In terms of strength, beech is not inferior to oak. Compared to oak, beech is cheaper. The color of such wood can be from reddish-brown to pinkish-yellow.
- has high decorative qualities;
- dries quickly;
- easy to handle.
- afraid of moisture;
- poorly polished.
Oak is a hard species with high strength values. The natural color of oak stretches from yellowish white to yellowish brown with a slight shade of gray or green. Oak has a number of other advantages - it is very easy to use, easily glued, practically does not rot and has a beautiful appearance.
- despite the high viscosity of wood, it is processed quite well;
- bends easily;
- resistant to decay;
- lends itself well to methods of artificial aging.
- price;
Ash wood is harder than oak. The color of the wood is light and delicate golden. Most often it is used in the manufacture of bent and carved furniture or as veneer.
- bends well after steaming;
- little cracking during drying;
- when discolored, it acquires an unusual shade of gray hair.
- in conditions of moisture, wood is quickly damaged by a wormhole;
- poorly polished.
Aspen is a deciduous tree. It belongs to the Poplar family. This is very large tree, it grows up to 30 meters in height and may well reach a thickness of 1 meter. Since it grows very quickly, a lot of wood is obtained from it.
- very high moisture resistance;
- the ability to retain heat, but not give it away;
- bactericidal (you can put such furniture in the children's room without fear that it will harm).
- not very presentable appearance;
- the possibility of darkening, both partially and completely;
- it is worth fearing that the product may start to rot from the inside.
Pine is a soft wood that is most often used in the manufacture of frames for upholstered or cabinet furniture. The main advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to decay, humidity and temperature extremes. In addition, pine is one of the most common and affordable materials.
- ease of handling;
- easy to stick together;
- a pleasant medicinal smell that produces phytoncides.
- easily scratched and damaged.