Definition of a milling table, its design

A device with which you can perform: grooves in the workpiece, grooves... make finger joints, process the edges of products, is called a milling table. It is inconvenient to use a router separately, the master will have to concentrate on the workpiece and at the same time on processing. A do-it-yourself milling table facilitates the work process, it can be mounted on a workbench or made for it a special design.

Important! When carrying out work on the manufacture of a specialized table, it must be remembered that the router is installed from below, free space must be allocated for it. The stationary part of any table is the bed; it is a sturdy frame with a table top.

Material for the frame milling table can be:

1. Wooden bar.
2. Metal squares.
3. Plates: MDF, chipboard.

The requirement for the frame is the creation of stability for the table top and the rigidity of the structure. When a milling table is made with your own hands, the overall parameters of the bed are determined from the materials that require processing.

How to make a bed for a milling machine

Despite the simplicity of making a frame for a tabletop, a homemade milling machine should for correct work meet the requirements:

The table includes mounting plate... it is needed to mount the router.

How to make a mounting plate correctly

Place the mounting plate at the attachment point of the router sole. For its manufacture, a material is selected that meets the criteria:

• Strength.
• Thickness - the thinner the better.

Experts recommend using sheet metal for self-production of the mounting plate of a milling machine, you can use fiberglass or textolite. Overall dimensions of rectangular shape, thickness within from 4 millimeters to 8 millimeters... In the center of the plate, you need to make a hole that matches the diameter of the hole on the foot of the hand router.

The router is equipped with a plastic strip that is attached to the threaded holes on the base, these holes are used to attach it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, they must be made in the base of the router. Another method of fastening the router is offered, it is with metal staples-springs. Mounting plate attaches to the table top at the corners .

DIY milling table assembly instructions

Rollers or a ball bearing are used to assemble the pressure device. required diameter... It is fastened in a holding device, which is rigidly fixed at the required distance from the plane of the table top.

This device provides tight pressing of the overall workpiece to the plane of the tabletop when it passes under the roller. This simple addition increases the accuracy of the work carried out, improves labor safety.

You can assemble a functional milling table with your own hands when the master has information about the electric drive that will be used in the work. Consider the power parameter to select an electric drive:

Important! Experts recommend before assembling the milling machine to determine the power of the milling cutter, it should not be less than 2 kW... This power enables the craftsman to work with any wood. It is recommended to choose models of milling cutters with speed control. The rotational speed of the router is very important to get an even cut on the workpiece. If this parameter is high, the cut will be clean.

Safe use of the milling table

When the milling table is assembled and the electric drive is installed, do not rush to immediately check it in operation, make sure that the work performed is correct. What experts recommend to do for safe work on the milling table:

• It is advisable to install a protective screen on the tabletop, it can be of your own design or an industrial design.
• It is imperative to check the presence of an emergency stop button for electrical equipment, it must be in the form of a "fungus" and be located in the area where the master is located, so that you can press it with the body of the body.
• Equip working area light illumination.
• When the milling table is used for frequent milling cutter changes for the job, it is recommended to equip it with an automatic cutter lifting device.

In equipping a homemade milling table no restrictions... there is only one requirement for them: an increase in the safety and efficiency of the work carried out.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands with construction drawings

With the milling table, you can carry out professional woodworking. Joints, profiling of ends, door and window frames, skirting boards, frames for photographs and paintings are made neatly and conveniently on the table. A factory-made table can cost a pretty penny if the quality is dubious. Why not make it yourself? Moreover, the design is not at all complicated, further the drawings will be disassembled in detail.

The main parts of the milling table

homemade milling table

There are many options for milling tables. As a rule, craftsmen create unique drawings for their needs. But the basic design is the same regardless of the size of the machine. Here is a table 90 x 48 x 30 cm, a table top and supports from plywood No. 27, legs of a workbench are welded from a steel corner.

The main elements of the table for a hand router, the quality and design of which will determine the convenience of work and functionality.

First, you need to decide on the type of future machine:

If you plan to work on the road, a drawing of a small portable structure will do. For constant work in the workshop, a reliable and powerful stationary table will be convenient. It can be installed on casters and moved around the room. And for a small workshop, the modular version is good, it is an extension of the tabletop of the sawing machine or its rotary version.

Cover material

The most practical countertops are made of chipboard, pasted over with thin plastic or MDF with a melamine layer. Such material is very easy to cut with a jigsaw, and it will last a long time.

Pressed worktops are not suitable for work in damp rooms and outdoors! To prevent them from swelling, all edges will have to be carefully processed and compacted.

Homemade countertops made of plastic sheets are very good. They are smooth, even, easy to process. Such a machine can be used in any conditions.

Metal countertops are harder to make and are heavy. And aluminum sheets must be additionally clad - covered with a layer that prevents contamination of parts.

Stop groove

Typically, a milling table is used to machine longitudinal edges. So that you can process the transverse ends, when creating homemade machine you need to provide a movable stop that moves in the groove. The built-in groove is also used for fixing the hold-down devices.

Fixing the router

There are two options for attaching the hand router to the table:

• directly to the bottom surface of the countertop;
• to the removable assembly platform.

When making a milling table with your own hands, they often use the first method, as the simpler one. But the mounting plate hardware has a number of operational advantages:

• frees up to 1 cm of the depth of the part;
• the router is easier to remove to replace the cutters.

Therefore, we recommend tinkering a little longer and equipping the mounting plate. It must be flush with the surface of the countertop, otherwise the workpiece will touch the protrusions. Even more convenience is provided by the elevator for the cutter, the design of which will be discussed in detail below.

Longitudinal stop

It serves as a guide for the part, so it should be flat. You can make a stop with a T-slot, into which pressure devices and other devices are inserted to facilitate work.

Homemade table

The most primitive drawing homemade table for a router, this is a MDF tabletop, in which a hole is made for the cutter to pass and a guide ruler is attached - an evenly planed board. This table top can be placed between two workbenches or installed on its own legs. Its advantages are in the simplest and quickly manufactured design. Such a device is unlikely to allow performing serious work on wood. Consider more functional options, including rotary.

Small milling table

neat and small table

A tabletop model for a hand router that you can make yourself in a few evenings. The design is light and mobile, fits on a shelf, takes up little space, and its drawings are simple.

• The work surface and side posts are made of thick film faced plywood No. 15. The size of the table top is 40 x 60 cm, the height without corner stop is 35 cm, the height of the stop is 10 cm. Three grooves are selected in the surface of the work table for installing rails. Various auxiliary devices are installed here and moved along the tabletop.
• To make the structure stable, the legs are made of chipboard or MDF No. 22. The legs are placed with a slight indentation, leaving a little space for attaching templates, clamps with clamps.
• To cover the mechanism, a front panel made of plywood or chipboard is installed from below.
• For the side stop, there are grooves along which it moves. Locks in place with wing nuts. The stop can be dismantled and installed on the vacant space with any convenient device.
• A branch pipe is connected to the stop for removing chips, which are released in abundance during operation. The cutter and table shavings are connected through plastic corrugations from the sewer siphons with a splitter for the water supply. A hose from a household vacuum cleaner is attached to it on a clamp. It turns out very efficient system removal of shavings, it practically does not scatter around the room.
• Since the machine is designed for a hand router, a special on / off switch is not required.
• The stop consists of two parts that move closer or closer depending on the diameter of the working body. A wing nut is provided for fastening the sash. The offered model is good in that the tool is easily removed from the bed to replace the cutters.
• The mounting platform for the router is made of PCB or plexiglass. The plastic platform from the router kit is preliminarily dismantled. The recesses for the mounting platform are selected with a milling cutter, and the hole is cut with a jigsaw. When the hole is ready, the plexiglass is adjusted to its size and shape. It should fit tightly and without protrusions into the window.

You can make several mounting pads of the same size with holes for different cutter diameters.

This option is convenient for little ones hand tools... If a stationary table is made for a large milling cutter, insert rings are attached to one mounting platform for different cutter diameters.

To make the workpiece move smoothly, movement stops are installed on the side stop. Also, clamps are attached to the side stop, which hold the part near the cutter during operation. An additional convenience is created by a slide along which the workpiece moves at a right angle. And to make the work safe, pushers are made.

The table is ready to use, its disadvantage is the lack of adjustment of the working depth. This is done manually by applying pressure to the tool. It is impossible to "get" to the required depth the first time. Therefore, we recommend equipping the table with an elevator.

A hole must be made in the bed, where an adjusting bolt with a wing nut is inserted. The milling depth is smoothly changed by twisting the thumbscrew.

Some craftsmen adapt old car jacks for an elevator for a powerful milling cutter. The device is attached under the router, a hole is made in the side wall to bring the jack handle outward. The handle of the jack can be bent at the desired angle; when rotating, the router smoothly moves up and down with a step of 2 mm.

Another model of a homemade milling table for a router in the video:

Examples of designs of milling tables and their drawings

Construction 1

When buying a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks and the amount of work performed for it. Therefore, the master, thinking about the purchase, is trying to find a universal option, to combine precision in machining on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article, we will consider a compromise option - a table for a do-it-yourself hand router, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a do-it-yourself milling table, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or to buy a ready-made version, you need to imagine at least the slightest idea of ​​their designs.

The working process of a hand cutter is to move the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the milling cutter is permanently fixed and moved the workpiece, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a handheld or portable version and has undeniable advantages in front of compact models.

It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - the selection of grooves and grooves, all kinds of processing the edges of products and the laying of finger joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a hand router with our own hands is choosing a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option will do. If the master works every day, then with our own hands we will make a free-standing stationary table. The design of the portable milling machine allows you to remove the manual milling cutter from the structure, and after completing the work, mount it again.

The main elements of the milling table

Consider an option - a table for a hand router, which is easy to do with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the basic elements of its design:

• bed;
• countertop;
• mounting plate;
• longitudinal emphasis;
• clamping combs.

You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (trimming plywood sheets, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We will hammer the machine frame out of boards or use an old table, a bedside table.
Anything is suitable that will allow a rigid and stable response to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions supporting structure machine tool.

Making the bed of the machine with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only when taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.), the work process will take place in a comfortable environment without harm to health.

Table top

It is convenient to use a kitchen countertop for a work surface. But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and old countertop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the table top is from 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a hand router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the supply of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the table top directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed, the width of the table top changes, but the depth and thickness are unchanged. The figure shows a worktop that is sized for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is optional, each master changes them for specific conditions and requirements.

In the center of the tabletop, a hole is cut out for attaching the milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the mounting plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to fit the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The rebate depth is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the table surface.

For greater functionality of the machine and the possibility of processing parts of different sizes, grooves are selected in the tabletop. A guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop is installed in them, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.

Mounting plate

A mounting plate is required to secure the router to the table. It is made of durable materials such as metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. For the convenience of controlling the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit snugly into its seat on the table top of the machine. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over attaching the router directly to the lower part of the tabletop. The small plate thickness increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter being used. Cutter diameters range from 3mm to 76mm, therefore it is recommended to use inserts with exchangeable rings to change the cutter hole.

Longitudinal stop

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required, which guides the workpiece along the table. The do-it-yourself result of the work will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the tabletop. The stop can be one-piece and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in the immediate vicinity of the working body, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Rip fence (front view)

Rip fence (rear view)

Retaining combs

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the ridge moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the table top of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves along and across in a horizontal plane.

1. If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended that you make do-it-yourself adjustable supports for the milling table, with which you adjust comfortable height for work.
2. For the durability of the equipment, parts made of wood of the milling table are covered with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
3. Fit the protective glass on the longitudinal stop to protect your eyes from chips and dust.
4. Wear gloves to protect your hands when working on the milling machine.
5. Do not wear loose fitting clothing.
6. Use hand-held milling machines with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
7. Insert the cutter into the collet 3/4 of the shank length.

Safety precautions when working at the milling machine:

• before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
• do not use too much force when milling (too strong feed will damage the tool);
• install the cutter into the collet 3/4 of the shank length, but not close, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
• using cutters large diameter, decrease the rotation speed;
• disconnect the tool from the mains before carrying out adjustment and maintenance;
• keep an eye on the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged pieces.

Reliable do-it-yourself milling table

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router located in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface to be treated, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives wider possibilities for processing parts. As a result, blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on appearance and size. Consideration should be given to the possibility of modernizing the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable to use. The presence of boxes will create additional comfort in work

Compact DIY design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of milling tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, as a rule, bulky and non-portable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the saw table surface.

Construction diagram

For self-made countertops, they usually use MDF boards, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal tabletop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will be an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, so it must be painted.

The milling table covers must be smooth. They are often made from plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and planks, these materials are reasonably priced.

In branded worktops, made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the produced models of countertops are made of MDF plates or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this is not always the case.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the worktop surface. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other means to level the plate. It is better to choose an insert with replaceable rings. This is necessary in order to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the cutter diameter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the milling table working surface.

Convenient when selecting the cutter diameter

In milling operations, a rip fence is often required to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. For work to be done accurately, it must be flat along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface, and easily reconfigured for different processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a branch pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixable pads

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-production you can read this design here.

Required tools and materials

1. Joiner's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a table top, supporting part and parts for a milling table will be using MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of a milling table, we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, 19x1000x1650 mm in size.
3. 1 plate, 4x30x30 mm in size.
4. Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the table top will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a substitute for this material.

• Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - the base of the stop; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - gusset plate (4 pcs. Dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking with cutters on the surface of the table top.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template for marking

• On the largest cut-out part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make a markup for the cutter. To do this, draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle, placing a mark. Then place the overlay so that the adjustment mechanisms of the router are closer to the edge of the table. With the trim evenly positioned, mark the places for drilling the holes that will be fixed with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the edge of the sole as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

• From the middle of the cut off part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D / 2- (D-H).

Measurements are taken from the edge of the lining sole

• With the help of the holes in the base of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using the overlay as a template

• Drill holes for fasteners and cutters in parts # 2 and 3. At the base and front of the stop, mark out the semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut out the semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

In the diagram, semicircular cuts are not made

• Fasten four strips (parts no. 7) to the underside of the tabletop with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy glue

• Glue the rest of the blanks and fix them with screws. Install a router from the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - the base of the stop

• Now it is necessary to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side rack; 2 - inner rack; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

• Cut the plywood into pieces according to the dimensions.
• Assemble the structure of the table, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - back rack

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the cover and make a recess for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to maximize the processing of parts

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and outline its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the countertop, sand the edges of which.

Pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the attachment point of the cutter and expand them on the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten with the screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help to further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut the guides from the T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stops make the process easy

• Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for attaching the hold-downs, trims and guards.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a dust extraction pipe. To do this, you need to cut out a piece of 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter fitting for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• Add a plywood and plexiglass protective shield for the stop.

For convenience, wing nuts are used

• For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. It is better to use maple wood when making a pressure-comb. To cut out a part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood grain. The crests of the ridges are best done with a circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Fix the guide with the clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in the places where milling work will be carried out. Remove dust from all wooden elements and coat with oil.

Safety engineering

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of the processed parts flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove the entire tool from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the dispersion of particles.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective shield and measuring workpieces are not allowed. Protective goggles must be worn to avoid eye contact with emitted particles. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to embed the cutter into the part gradually. Power feed must be turned on before the part touches the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place your hands close in the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you must make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to the relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build compact design milling table. This will allow you to make parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

DIY wood milling machine - how to make

The amount of work to be carried out will depend on which version of the table you need.

Router tables are of several types:

1. Stationary
   Free-standing full-fledged desktop.
2. Portable
   Tabletop design that can be installed if necessary.
3. Aggregate
   An option when the surface of the saw table is expanded to work with a router (pictured).

Structural elements

In this article, we will be looking at a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with any other type of construction.

The most important part of the table is the bed. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a table top (including a metal plate and other table components). The bed heights vary from 75 cm to 1 meter and can be adjusted individually.

An old unnecessary table, which can be easily converted into a milling table, is quite suitable as a bed.

The table top is made of chipboard, laminated chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. The optimum sheet thickness is 16 mm. The choice of material for the bed should be given the fact that wooden blanks will constantly move along its surface. Therefore, it should be smooth. Quite often the countertop is made of metals that do not corrode (for example, aluminum).

There is a mounting plate in the middle of the tabletop. Many people think that this detail can be dispensed with, but this is not the case. The mounting plate is the holder for all milling equipment.

The plate thickness should be no more than 8 mm. The material of manufacture depends on the desire and capabilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the insert to fit the base of the router.

Important: router models differ from each other, therefore, when making a table, it should be borne in mind that its height should ideally fit your height, and the router attachment and hole size should be exactly for your tool.

Stationary milling table

Consider the option of making a milling table with a metal frame and a Dutch plywood tabletop.

Materials and tools

In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for the frame)
• aluminum rail
• axles for mounting the router
• putty, primer and paint for metal
• self-tapping screws
• furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
• adjusting hex bolts with nuts - 4 pcs.
• Finnish moisture-resistant film faced plywood, 18 mm thick (you can take another material)
• boards or plywood trimmings (for the manufacture of a parallel stop).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for the metal frame of the table)
• drill and drill
• screwdriver
• jigsaw
• milling cutter
• spatula, brushes, rags.

You may also be interested in an article on how to make a table for a jigsaw with your own hands.

And how to make a table yourself for sewing machine, you can learn from this article.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. To begin with, we make a table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel stop will move. Legs are welded to them.

You can weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter, where the tabletop will be located) along a corner as long as a pipe, so that the tabletop sits on these corners in the recess.

Another option, which we will use, will be the installation of additional supports for the tabletop: we weld two more pipes on the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for the plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut a hole for fixing the device).

In order to make the workplace more stable, we weld reinforcing jumpers between the table legs, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.

Step 2. For coloring you need to take oil paint(not suitable for aluminum and zinc plating!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it using any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can putty the surface with a special putty and prime it.

Note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and ventilated area.

For primers you can use the same paint that will be used for painting further, but diluted with a solvent. Longer term and qualitative the result is obtained during processing specialized compositions for metal.

After application the last while standing it is necessary to wait for drying out and only then proceed with further actions.

Step 3. Cut the tabletop exactly under metal carcass so that it lies firmly in the corners. For greater strength, you can drill (with a metal drill) holes in metal pipes(or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. The size of the finished table top is 84 x 59 cm, the height of the table is 90 cm.

Step 4. We cut in at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge aluminum guide along the entire length of the tabletop.

Step 5. Cut the axles for the router in half. This will help to increase the space between the outsole and the steering axle up to 11 mm (if using uncut axles, this distance will be only 6 mm).

Step 6. We remove the sole from the router and in the middle of the tabletop mark 4 holes for its fastening, drill them. In the middle of the tabletop we make a hole for the router. The hole size will be different for each tool! To the left and to the right of the hole, holes are drilled into which the bolts for fastening the clamps of the milling axes are inserted (they will not be removed anymore).

Step 7. On the reverse side, it is necessary to make a large groove with a milling cutter under sole milling cutter.

In the groove itself, at the top and bottom of the through hole, cut out small grooves (with a milling cutter), equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves with a Forstner drill, make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hex hole.

Step 8. Cut out two pieces of pipe equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We have got the clamps of the milling axes. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.

Step 9. Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and are necessary in order to conduct plane adjustment milling cutter.

Step 10. We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this. An electric jigsaw cuts three strips of plywood of the same size (strip length = table length + guide tube width) and 4 stiffeners for them.

In one plywood strip, a semicircular hole is made for the chip exit, which must correspond to the slot in the tabletop. In the second strip, a square hole is made in the same place.

The third plywood strip is cut in half. It is attached to the back of the strip with a square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for their movement) or simple guides. The halves of the plywood should move apart in different directions. An aluminum track is installed at the very top edge of this strip.

Step 11. We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We fasten stiffening ribs: two - along the edges of the resulting large hole at the junction of plywood strips and one - on both sides (at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge).

We cut out a small square from thin plywood (which would enter between the stiffeners located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. Plywood is attached to the stiffeners to form a triangular box.

Step 12. The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and repositioned. If it is completely dedicated to the router, you can fix stop using brackets with grooves for its movement.

The milling machine is designed to perform various surface treatment of materials and parts. When working with large machines that are mounted on a work surface, special tables must be used. In this case, it turns out to achieve a better result, the work itself will be safer, since it is not the machine that moves in the form of a simple hand mill, but the workpiece.

It is the milling table, on which the equipment will be fixed permanently, that allows you to get a high-quality result. The table can be assembled with your own hands, it will be convenient to make curly holes on it, groove joints with preliminary cutting, edge profiling different types... The work becomes simple, safe and precise, and takes much less time. The machine can be securely fixed on the working surface, only the workpiece will move.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands?

To make a milling table, you need to prepare tools and materials:

• framework, i.e. frame, it can be assembled from a wooden board or steel pipes;
• welding machine for welding pipes on the bed;
• the worktop can be used from kitchen table, a chipboard plate is also suitable;
• overlays for the end parts of the table top;
• self-tapping screws;
• special mounting plate, metal or textolite;
• manual milling machine;
• drive for the machine (its power is determined according to the planned work).

The milling table has two important parts - the bed and the table top. The bed is a permanently reinforced element, that is, a frame on special supports. On top of this frame, the main work surface is attached - the tabletop. The base is best made of chipboard, steel pipes, wooden beams... When using steel pipes, individual structural elements need to be welded, so many people prefer to work with wood at home.

When fastening, the tabletop must be installed securely and firmly, since various loads will be exerted on it when processing parts. For the end part, overlays are used, they allow you to give the structure additional rigidity and strength. The height of the resulting table should be approximately 850-900 mm, it is this value that is optimal, convenient for work. For the countertop, you can provide a special mechanism that will allow you to raise or lower the work surface to the required level. The worktop itself can be made of chipboard or an old kitchen base with the required dimensions.

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Installation of the structure

When installing, attention should be paid to the special mounting plate. The table top will be approximately 26 mm thick. The insert is used to prevent the cutter from sticking out during operation. It is attached to the place where the sole of the milling machine will be installed after the final assembly. The thickness of the plate is not too large, but at the same time its strength is at the proper level.

It is best to make a mounting plate from metal or PCB. Its thickness should be 4-8 mm. A hole is made in the center of the mounting plate, the diameter of which is equal to the hole in the base of the machine. To fix the machine on the surface of the plate, it is necessary to provide special threaded connections on the back of the sole. If there are no such holes, then they must be made by hand. The total number is 4.

The milling table is assembled in this way:

1. First you need to attach the tabletop to the bed, and do this temporarily in order to determine the position.
2. A mounting plate must be laid on a pre-calculated place, after which a contour should be marked with a pencil.
3. Using a conventional hand-held milling machine, you need to select the hole along the marked contour. The plate will then be flush and flat.
4. The corners at the seat should be rounded, this is achieved with a file. After planting the prepared plate, it is necessary to make a through hole in the shape of the machine sole with a straight cutter (its thickness should be greater than that of the future working surface).

During work, it is necessary to observe accuracy and precision so that the table after assembly becomes comfortable and durable, and the fastening of the machine is reliable. Immediately it is necessary to provide that the milling table will have protective covers, dust collectors. If all the preparatory work has been completed, it is necessary to connect the individual parts together. The milling machine starts up when mounted from below, the mounting plate is fixed to the tabletop with screws. The caps of the self-tapping screws must be sunk into the material, otherwise they will interfere during the processing of the workpieces, clinging to their surface.

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Installing the upper clamp and drive

When a milling table is assembled with your own hands, it is necessary to mount a structure with pressure upper devices to ensure additional safety. Such safety measures are applied when work is carried out with large workpieces, for example, in the manufacture of various door linings.

The clamp itself has a simple device. This is a ball bearing, it acts as a roller that is mounted in a special holding device. After that, the roller is rigidly fixed on the surface of the working milling table at the required distance. As a result, a sufficiently tight clamping of the workpiece to the working surface during processing is guaranteed.

If a homemade milling machine is being made, then the utmost attention is paid to the electric drive device. An important criterion is the power of the drive, which will guarantee the execution of certain types of processing. For example, if you need to make a shallow cut in wooden blank, then you can use a motor with a power of 500 V. But such a machine is not suitable for more complex work. Therefore, taking a low-power motor, if intensive work is planned, is not worth it, it will constantly stall.

It is best to set the drive to 1100 V, it is optimal for any machine, not only for household

The difference in cost is fully justified, since with the help of this router it will be possible to perform various works... The drive with a power of up to 2 kW makes it possible to work with any type of wood using various milling cutters. The drives can be stationary or manual; a special fastening system must be provided on the table.

When choosing a drive for a milling table, you need to pay attention to the number of revolutions. For a three-phase motor, a special wiring diagram must be provided to ensure smooth starting and smooth operation. If a single-phase network is used for such a motor, then the efficiency will drop by about 40-50%.

For the convenience of working with the milling cutter, the craftsmen install it permanently, and the workpiece is moved. When working in this way, we are no longer talking about a hand router, but the so-called "milling table". In this article we will try to explain how to make a do-it-yourself wood milling machine.

Which milling cutter to choose

There are many types of routers. Before choosing it, you need to consider for what purposes you will need it. More complex workpieces will require a more powerful and resourceful router. Experts recommend choosing a router with manual adjustment and automatic spindle stabilization.

Milling cutters with soft start and quick stop systems are very convenient. And if the tool allows you to replace the engine brushes without opening the case, then there will be no price at all for it. This is a really significant plus.

In many operating instructions, milling machine manufacturers advise against using it upside down. Basically, these restrictions are not justified and can be ignored.

Advice: choose a router with a power of at least 2 kilowatts to work confidently with any tree. It should also have speed control, as a rule, there is on all models. As for whether it is worth buying brands such as bosh or makita, my opinion is that if you do it professionally and every day it is worth it, if for yourself then an inexpensive Chinese is enough.

DIY milling table video

Milling table bed

An important part of the tool is a special frame (bed). This is a frame on supports, on top of which there is a tabletop. The bed can be made of any material: metal, wood, chipboard, etc.

The main thing is that it is tough and stable. The size does not really matter either. It all depends on what size parts you will be working with.

The lower part of the bed must be deepened in order to ensure comfortable operation of the machine operator.

Due to this, the operator does not cling to the structure with his feet during operation. We advise you to make a bed with adjustable feet, which will allow you to work on any uneven floor.

A do-it-yourself wood milling machine is notable for a huge selection of creation options. You can create it completely for yourself.

Table top

Nothing complicated here. One option is a regular kitchen countertop covered with special plastic. The workpiece will glide perfectly on the plastic, and the board will damp vibrations well.

Mounting plate of the router on the table

A plate with high strength at small thickness... As a rule, it is made of metal or PCB (the latter option is easier to use).

A rectangular plate, in the center of which a hole is made. The router is then attached to the mounting plate. In order to secure the tool with the plate to the table, four holes must be drilled at the corners of the plate.

The simplest do-it-yourself milling table, drawings

So we got to the essence of this article. So how do you assemble a wood milling machine with your own hands? First, a tabletop is temporarily attached to the finished frame (bed). Then a mounting plate is placed on the countertop and its position is marked. Next, using a router, a seat for the plate is selected on the tabletop.

It must be installed perfectly with the top surface of the worktop. Finally, you need to mill the hole in the shape of the router base and put it all together. Of course, you will have to tinker with some points, but the main thing is to follow all the instructions.

Upper clamp

For more comfortable work, the table can be equipped with an upper clamp. A regular ball bearing will do.

It will allow you to firmly fix the workpiece. This will allow you to improve the quality and speed of work, as well as save your nerves and energy.

Safety

It is necessary to focus on the most important thing - safety. Firstly, it is recommended to install a protective shield for the cutter. Secondly, equip the tool with an emergency stop button. The button should be in an easily accessible place for you, but at the same time, it should not interfere with your work. Thirdly, the working area can be additionally illuminated.

All these points will only add comfort to your work, because you cannot save on safety. Be healthy.

2. Glue the right leg WITH to the support B (fig. 1) and additionally secure with screws. Set the assembly aside. Cut the tsars I... Then make cutouts for the drawers in the middle support. How to accurately make such cutouts is described in "".

3. Using the cutouts of the middle support IN, mark the width of the top divider F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and file it (photo B).

FOR AN EXACT FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Place the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, aligning the edges. Use the cutout as a template to mark the width of the shelf.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the cutout and mark its width by placing a mark at the opposite cutout.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support IN by aligning its underside with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). When the glue is dry, glue the bottom shelf in place G.

Cut out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, aligning the bottom shelf with them, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows you to make countersunk mounting and pilot holes in one operation, without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and guide holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled node B / F / G and additionally secure with screws (PhotoD).

Quick tip! With the help of glue and screws, several base parts can be fastened at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to dry completely before attaching the next piece. Saw out the back wall J and, trying it on to the opening, make sure that the top edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support IN... Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the drawers in place I fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then fix the last support with glue and screws. IN... When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top bar N (photoF) and glue the part in place (fig. 1).

Glue drawers I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To ensure that side bars I are parallel to each other along their entire length, mark the exact length of the top bar H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right leg again B / C and attach to the assembled left side of the base B / D / F-J using glue and screws (fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports IN planks E fixing them with clamps. Use a sanding pad to round off the upper outer edge of the left plank with a radius of 3 mm.

Milling table drawings

Measuring and marking out project details with a tape measure and a ruler can be difficult to achieve accuracy, especially if the actual thickness of the plywood differs from the nominal. Instead, for neatness, it is better to use the parts themselves or cut material to dimension the machine tools. Follow this method to make precise cuts for drawers I in the middle support B.

To adjust the width of the cut, make a cut in the plywood trim by lifting the blade so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When adjusting the cutting depth, measure the distance from the stop to the outside of the saw blade teeth.

Attach a wooden overlay to the head of the cross (corner) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. The rip fence serves as a stop for the last pass.

Take care of the lid

1. Take the cover cut out earlier BUT and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Use a hole saw to make a 38mm hole in the center of the lid (PhotoG).

Use the clamps to secure cover A to the workbench with a board to prevent chipping. Drill a cutter hole in the center of the cover.

Place the cutter base plastic on cover A and center it so that the power tool controls are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic cover from the base of the router that you are going to install on the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover. (photo H). Drill the holes and countersink them.

3. Saw out the cover strips TO... Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the planks (fig. 2). Drill 6mm holes (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid BUT and secure with clamps.

Secure both K-planks to a workbench by stacking them and placing a board underneath to avoid chipping.

Drill a 5mm hole through the center hole. Then make a 6mm hole on the right. The depth of the holes must match the length of the fastener.

4. Put the lid on A / K on the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the edge of the bar E focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes of the upper bar TO Drill a 5mm hole for the axle screw and a 6mm hole for the right lock screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a 6 × 35 mm wood-grouse screw into the axial hole. Lift the cover up and drill a 6mm hole through the left lock hole for the lock screw to hold the cover up.

Add a rip fence

1. Saw out the front wall and the base of the stop L... Mark out identical semicircular cutouts (fig. 3). Then, as described in the "Craftsman's Advice", carefully saw them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out the spacers M and clamps N... Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue is dry, place a stop L / L on the assembled clamps M / N, align the parts and drill 6mm through holes (Fig. 3, photoL).

With the anti-chipping board underneath, align the L / L stop over the assembled M / N clamps. After securing all parts with clamps, drill a through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Adjust the cross stop to a 45 ° angle and saw off two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the 90 ° angle again to saw off two more gussets.

3. Cut out triangular gussets from a 19x76x305 mm plywood strip O (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (fig. 3).

Craft sturdy crates

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut two pieces of 100 × 254 mm for the front and rear walls R... Saw two back walls from one workpiece and set them aside. On the second workpiece, mark the cutouts of the front walls. (fig. 4) and carefully saw them out (see “Craftsman's Tip” below) before splitting the workpiece into two front walls.

Quick tip! It is more convenient to make the cutouts before you start cutting out the front walls, so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest on the clamps that hold the workpiece.

Method of cutting sharp bends with a jigsaw

Even having installed a file with the smallest teeth in a jigsaw, it is not easy to make neat cuts with a small radius, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up and burns are formed.

Try this method: before cutting the cutout along the contour, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo to the right. Then cut the cut out by cutting the file slightly off the contour line. As the saw moves forward, small pieces formed by straight cuts will fall out one by one, without interfering with the movement of the saw and giving room to maneuver if a slight change in trajectory is required. Sand the edges of the cutout to the outline using trim plastic pipe wrapped with sandpaper.

2. Cut the sidewalls out of 12mm plywood Q and bottoms R... Set these details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover BUT... If the original sole screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm rebate cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Mill 12 × 12 mm rebates along three sides of the front and back walls R... Replace the cutter and make rounds with a radius of 3 mm at the edges of the semicircular cutouts of the front walls.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts together and fixing them with clamps (fig. 5). Make pivot locks out of 6mm plywood trim S and sand on the fillet corners with a 6 mm radius. Drill countersunk mounting holes and attach the locks to the leading edge of the center post B (Fig. 1). Now insert the boxes, fill them with boxes with cutters and you can start milling.

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The presence of a milling machine will greatly simplify the process and the accuracy of processing products. It can be purchased ready-made in a specialized store, or you can save your own savings and make a table with your own hands.

With such a device, you can cut not only different types of trees, but also plastic, wood-based panels. Also with it you can independently make a curly selection of a profile, grooves, thorn and cuts.

With a DIY milling table, you can equip your workshop with a practical woodworking machine. All that is required for effective work is to attach the manual router itself to the product.

Type constructions, the milling table can be:

• mounted... This option is quite practical and easy to use. For this, a separate unit of the unit is attached to the sawing machine with clamps on the side. This design saves space. If necessary, it can be easily and quickly removed and left to the side;
• portable... This option is in great demand, especially if the workshop is small. Also, this type of design is suitable for those who often change their place of residence or take a router with them to construction sites;
• stationary... This option is suitable for a spacious workshop. This is a very handy model. Since with a stationary product, you can equip a well-thought-out workplace.

Material

For the manufacture of a milling table, you can use various materials:

Each individual option has its own advantages. The tree is distinguished by its high strength, reliability and durability. But you need to be able to work with this material. It is more difficult to handle manually, unlike DPP or MDF. And natural wood is much more expensive.

As for chipboard and MDF, these materials are more affordable in terms of price. They can be easily processed with hand and power tools and have good technical characteristics.

Drawing of a homemade milling table for wood

Before you start making a milling table, you need to make a drawing. It indicates the exact dimensions of each individual element and the materials of manufacture. As for the manufacture of a drawing, you can do it yourself, you can use special programs on the computer or, order from a furniture company. The last option the most reliable. Since the specialists will make a competent calculation of all the details, with an accuracy of one millimeter.

Tools

To make a homemade milling table design, you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• electric jigsaw;
• sander or sandpaper;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Advice: Using electrical tools will greatly speed up the manufacturing and assembly process.

From materials you will need:

• Chipboard or MDF. In order not to bend during work, it is worth choosing lumber with a section of 3.6 cm.For the side parts, chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm is suitable;
• plywood, textolite, metal (manufacturing of a mounting plate);
• the router is purchased from a specialized store.

An easy way to make a table for a hand router

Countertop manufacturing

First you need to prepare the parts for the table. They are cut with a jigsaw from the selected lumber, according to the drawing.

Advice: Detailing can be ordered from a specialized furniture company. Here you will be helped to immediately create a competent drawing and select lumber. The cost of services of a furniture company is fully justified by the quality and accuracy of work. All you need next is just to assemble the product according to the diagram in your workshop.

The process of making a milling table is carried out in the following sequence:

Important: whether to do for the design of the table or not is everyone's personal business. A worktop with an installed router can simply be fastened between two tables.

How to make and install the plate yourself

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling table has a decent thickness, the mounting plate should be thinner. Then you can maximize the overhang of the cutting tool.

Attention: the plate with the minimum thickness should be as strong and rigid as possible.

It can be made from metal or from a material that is not inferior in strength, for example, from PCB. The thickness of the PCB should vary between 4-8 mm.

The plate making process is as follows:

1. After checking the drawing, cut out a rectangular piece from the PCB sheet.
2. In the center of a rectangular part make a hole... Its dimensions should correspond to the diameter of the hole in the router base.
3. We connect the plate with the base of the router and the table.
4. For fixing the plates to the worktop we make clamps for the machine, which are located at the four corners. These dimensions must strictly correspond to the holes located on the tool itself.

Work area equipment

After the manufacture and assembly of the milling table, it is recommended to think over a competent working area. To maintain the precision of milling, it is worth installing on the worktop:

• guides... They can be made from chipboard or from the same materials as the countertop. The guides are installed at right angles and are held together by four oblique stops.
• clamps... They can be made in the form of a wooden comb or from a ball bearing of the desired size and weight.

Finishing

After building a milling table with your own hands, to give the product an aesthetic appearance and to extend its life, you need all the working surfaces:

• grind;
• polish;
• bottom and sides - paint;
• open with varnish.

The electrical part of the product must be covered with a metal sleeve.

Photo

The result of the work may be a table that looks like one of the following

Useful video

A detailed description of the manufacturing process can be viewed in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be noted that the process of making a milling table is a rather responsible process. If you are sure that you can cope with such a task, you can save your own savings and make the product yourself. To do this, you will need: stock up on a well-drawn drawing, necessary materials and tools and free time.

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