How to make a kitchen table from a countertop. How to make a kitchen table with your own hands

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills. carpentry work, which in the future may turn out to be much more important. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.

You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15 different ways including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble... However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular tabletops or with rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and it is necessary to serve it over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedging into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m.However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table for the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it in the "microkitchen" or in the kitchen area of ​​a small-sized odnushka wall-mounted folding, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

What to do

The traditional kitchen table is on the base of pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their planks placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a table kitchen sizes structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the tsars are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. In this case, a tabletop is needed durable and not of any suitable for pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.

The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like, with it the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest version (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to perform them in a high-end design (pos. 4), well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required. Beam tables require more material consumption, but they undeniable advantage- they can be made completely collapsible without tools (see also below).

Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But when completely self-production such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. First, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, which in this publication will also be devoted to a special section.

Wall folding tables (pos. 7) are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) on the farm are used much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack, even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made post-formed countertop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a kitchen countertop:

How to make a table top from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally wooden furniture going on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (pos. 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but special skill does not require, because the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.

Details made of chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the confirmation body without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
• The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
• It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmates with a main drill of diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult even for a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:

1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirms, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put on them a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a hat and different types corrugations on a long recessed and short protruding part, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally connected (assembled) on tenon-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the kitchen table drawers is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties at the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The top of a classic table with detachable legs should be from 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or from 30 mm (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe together with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon loosen.

Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary self-tapping screws for wood. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.

The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load in this case is not expected, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front drawer of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.

To install the box in the table, an opening is cut out in the longitudinal front sidewall according to the dimensions of the cross-section of the box tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it from the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, push the box into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Table top - any worktop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beam kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

The table, the drawings of which are below in Fig., Has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second - only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it itself can be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the countertop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So it is rustic or modern, it is a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without a tabletop

Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under wooden countertop will face the following tricks.

First, a table holder is still needed, from wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. A strapping made of a bar expands the stress fan in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. laminated enough soft wood, the nests can, breaking the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third is the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without table stands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.

Books and cheburashka

The disadvantages of the book-table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support has been reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees must be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for yourself. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied in the wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging from top to bottom.

The branded solution to the problems of the book-table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no retainer, tk. he just isn't needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half as much, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally built." A fold-out kitchen table, as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm to it along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a regular-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is close at hand.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

Even if the production of furniture is far from your field, do country table with your own hands, to get together with family and friends on warm summer evenings is quite a feasible task.

Its main advantage, in contrast to the purchased one, is undoubted savings. It is not necessary to make a table from scratch: simply by assembling the purchased parts, you will save 30-50% of the cost. If you manage to use the materials left over from construction or repair, the costs will be limited to the purchase of accessories.

To select a design, you need to decide where the product will be used.

Using cheap off-grade boards - substandard - for a country or kitchen table, you will receive advantages that are not available for mass production. Sounds dubious? But this is so: the knots, due to which the boards are rejected, have interesting decorative properties. If you succeed in highlighting them, you will become the author of a completely unique design product, which is a pity to leave in the garden in the rain.

Making a country table with your own hands to get together with family and friends on warm summer evenings is quite a feasible task.

To choose a design, you need to decide where the product will be used: on a grassy lawn under a tree, complement a gazebo, stand in a workshop or in a house.

The simplest country table can be mounted in a few hours with a minimum of materials, but it will not last long either. To get a product that will be really pleasant to use, you need to carefully prepare the boards and perform all technical operations with high quality at each stage.

Its main advantage, in contrast to the purchased one, is undoubted savings.

If you find a large tree stump in the forest, it can make an easy-to-make garden table. You just need to remove the bark from the stump, make an even cut along the top, grind it, treat it with an antiseptic and varnish it. It is enough to nail or screw the finished furniture board to the "leg" from the stump - and you're done.

Tabletops made of boards, fastened at the bottom with transverse slats, look good. If you prefer a glued countertop, you can make it yourself, but it will take a lot of effort.

If you succeed in highlighting them, you will become the author of a completely unique design product, which is a pity to leave in the garden in the rain.

It is difficult for a novice master to fix the legs securely, so try to choose a design, correctly assessing your skills and taking into account the cost of labor and time. The easiest way to make cruciform and L-shaped legs. To attach straight legs - you need to carefully connect the parts.

One of the most comfortable garden options is a collapsible table with benches that can be installed in a gazebo or on a veranda. It is not difficult to carry out it, the main thing is to choose high-quality materials and properly prepare them for work.

The simplest country table can be mounted in a few hours with a minimum of materials, but it will not last long either.

How to choose a tree?

For a garden or kitchen table, wood of many species is suitable, both soft (pine, spruce, cedar, fir) and hard (oak, birch, ash, walnut, maple, apple, pear, acacia, etc.) The exception is too soft species wood (poplar, alder, aspen, willow).

One of the main parameters of the suitability of wood for the manufacture of furniture is resistance to decay: the species listed above meet this requirement.

If you do not plan to do furniture work all the time or are just starting to practice, give preference to the most common types of wood - pine and birch.

Tabletops made of boards, fastened at the bottom with transverse slats, look good.

Various wood species can be used for the table top, frame and legs. At the assembly stage, dowels will be needed: they are usually made from acacia or boxwood. Birch wood has an inexpressive pattern and can significantly warp due to spilled liquid - it is better not to use it as a tabletop material, but thanks to the hardness of this breed, legs can be made from it.

The countertop is best made of oak or pine. If you know how to brush wood, the surface of the kitchen table can be a real work of art. Soft wood lends itself to brushing: the wood is fired gas burner, and soft fibers are removed with an iron brush. It is better to carry out work in the yard because of a large number dust. If you managed to burn the wood evenly, the result will delight you. Brush can be tinted with stains, stains, diluted artistic water acrylic paint... Of course, wood brushing is not necessary: ​​this is only a finishing option.

If you prefer a glued countertop, you can do it yourself, but it will take a lot of effort.

Selection of paints and varnishes and adhesives

Before proceeding with the installation, the boards must be protected from decay. The tree must be impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE): processing is carried out twice with an interval of 3-5 days. This is enough for the product to serve for a long time.

Some models require glue. Along with special carpentry adhesives (BF-2, etc.), you can use construction PVA: it is applied to both surfaces to be glued, dried until tack-free, then the parts are connected and kept under pressure for up to three days.

It is difficult for a novice master to fix the legs securely, so try to choose a design, correctly assessing your skills and taking into account the cost of labor and time.

Choice paints and varnishes is determined by where you plan to use the product: in the yard or indoors. For garden table which is inevitably exposed to precipitation, alkyd, alkyd-urethane, nitrocellulose varnishes and oil paints are suitable. For the kitchen table, as well as for any furniture that is constantly in the room, it is better to use acrylic paints and varnishes: they are more environmentally friendly, do not have a strong smell. Varnishes marked with the blue angel are recommended for children's furniture and toys.

If you decide to cover the wood with wood stain, paint or just tinted varnish, this must be done before assembly. Consideration must be given to material compatibility. The varnish is tinted with a suitable paint: if the varnish is alkyd, the paint should be oily, if you are using acrylic varnish, it can only be tinted with acrylic paint. First, a small amount of varnish is thoroughly mixed in a separate container with paint, and then the resulting mixture is added to a larger varnish.

One of the most comfortable garden options is a collapsible table with benches that can be installed in a gazebo or on a veranda.

What tools are needed

For work you will need:

• hacksaw,
• circular saw or jigsaw;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer (if it is decided to use nails).

Many species of wood are suitable for a garden or kitchen table.

This list includes only the most necessary tools, but to make the work more comfortable, and the finished product looks aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to buy or rent a rotary miter box, an eccentric sander and a milling machine.

The swivel miter box makes it possible to make cuts at exactly the right angle. The eccentric sander allows you to prepare parts simply, quickly and efficiently: you will sand the boards in an hour, instead of doing it all day by hand with sandpaper. For high-quality processing of the ends, a belt sander is useful, and a milling machine allows you to select the wood for the necessary grooves and process the edges.

If you do not plan to do furniture work all the time or are just starting to practice.

Homemade pallet table

A spectacular rustic-style table can be constructed from pallets ( wooden pallets). If you are the lucky owner of such a container, especially a double-deck pallet, just disassemble it: there is no problem of purchasing boards!

Do you think buying new boards is always better? You probably have not worked with wood before: you cannot use raw wood (the product deforms after a few months), and dry boards are much more expensive. To dry raw wood boards, stack them in a well-ventilated area: this necessary process will delay your project by 4-6 months! A good option for the kitchen table can be the already mentioned rejected boards, also dry.

Various wood species can be used for the table top, frame and legs.

Let's go back to the pallets: they are disassembled. Now you have at your disposal sturdy boards with different patterns and colors, it is possible that from trees of different species. These features should not be considered as disadvantages: they will give the product a zest: you just need to create an interesting composition out of them, alternating boards of a similar shade.

The sides of the pallet will make an excellent frame, and the remaining planks will be used to assemble the countertop.

It is better to work in the yard due to the large amount of dust.

To make the legs, you will need a bar with a thickness of at least 5 cm.All details must be prepared: sandpaper strictly along the fibers with coarse sandpaper (No. 120-150), then finer grit (No. 400-600), carefully removing dust.

Some boards can be painted with acrylic or oil paint... Fans of the loft style can use stencils in the form of numbers or simple graphic symbols. Boards with a beautiful natural pattern are “stained” or simply varnished. After staining or the first layer of acrylic lacquer, the soft fibers rise; sand them with medium-grit sandpaper and apply a new coat of varnish.

A spectacular, rustic-style table can be constructed from pallets (wooden pallets).

If a non-aqueous varnish is used, it is enough to apply 2-3 coats, and if acrylic, the number of coats can be up to ten.

Rejected boards, also dry, can be a good option for the kitchen table.

We fasten the tabletop boards with planks, which we place at the joints of the boards. Using a drill, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we fasten the boards to the slats (at the joints we use two self-tapping screws, on solid boards - one). The use of a drill is necessary so that the wood does not crack when screwing in the screws. We assemble the frame from the prepared pallet sides. Using a drill of a suitable diameter for self-tapping screws, we drill holes at the joints. We coat the joints with glue and fix with self-tapping screws. Install the legs: just screw the boards to the frame, screwing in the screws diagonally. To strengthen the structure, we make the lintels at the bottom in a similar way.

To make the legs, you need a bar with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

Wooden table with glued top

For glued worktops, you need to choose boards of the same width. If the table is intended for a workshop and its appearance does not really matter, you can use old floorboards: there are already grooves there. To make the grooves yourself, you need a milling machine.

A flat surface is required to collect the countertop. We just coat the sidewalls with glue, join the boards without gaps and tighten the resulting structure with clamps. Depending on the glue used, the worktop should dry from 1 to 3 days. If everything is done correctly, you will get a worktop with a completely flat surface without gaps. It remains to work out the ends - first trim with a jigsaw, and then grind. In the absence of a belt sander, this must be done manually - with sandpaper, first coarse, then medium grit.

After varnishing the parts, you can proceed to the installation, which consists of several stages.

If you don't want to mess with glue and clamps, you can use a ready-made furniture board from a hardware store. Then it remains to cover the tabletop with a transparent or tinted varnish.

For good result you need to apply 5-7 (for acrylic varnish up to 10) layers. After every third layer, the working surface of the countertop must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, carefully removing the dust with a damp cloth. At the stage of varnishing, it is important not to rush: each layer of varnish should dry well.

It remains to make the legs of the garden or kitchen table: let's dwell on the option with L-shaped legs... You will need boards with a thickness of at least 22-25 mm.

For glued worktops, you need to choose boards of the same width.

L-shaped legs consist of two parts, connected at an angle of 90. On the boards to be connected, it is necessary to make a sample, coat the joint with wood glue, and then install self-tapping screws.

When the glue dries, cover the legs with varnish and, after drying, simply attach them to the countertop with screws.

There are several options for connecting the legs to the table top.

Table with straight legs

To make straight legs, it is enough to saw a thick bar into pieces of the same length. There are several options for connecting such legs to the table top.

To ensure that the straight legs are installed securely, you can use a dowel connection at home. You can make them yourself from acacia wood or buy ready-made ones. To assemble the dowel joints, you need a fast-drying carpentry glue (BF-2).

To make straight legs, it is enough to saw a thick bar into pieces of the same length.

Table with X-shaped legs

Sequence of work.

1. On inner side we attach the countertops to self-tapping screws, two strips on each side.
2. For the table to look good, the edges of the planks must first be cut at an angle of 52.
3. We fasten the paired strips so that the legs fit, we make gaps of 2-3 mm on each side.
4. We put the boards on a flat surface, crossing them at the desired angle. We measure the distance between the ends of the boards: it should correspond to the width of the table.
5. We outline the intersection with chalk: here you need to choose half the thickness of the boards so that after assembly they lie in the same plane.
6. We coat the grooves with glue and place the parts under the press for 1-3 days. For greater reliability, the connection can be strengthened with self-tapping screws.
7. We varnish the legs.
8. It remains to attach them to the tabletop, placing them in the grooves formed by the slats - and the table for giving with your own hands is ready.

X-shaped legs are made of beams or boards with a minimum thickness of 50 mm.

Table with benches

The optimal solution for the gazebo - dinner table with benches attached to it. It is better to make such a structure collapsible in order to clean it up for the winter indoors.

For the table, thick boards (from 32 mm) are required, which must be cut into pieces according to the drawing. In this version, two benches are attached to the table. When all the parts are cut, they need to be sanded, paying special attention to the ends. We cover each board separately with varnish.

The optimal solution for a gazebo is a dining table with benches attached to it.

To connect the parts of the structure, we will prepare studs (length 160 mm), nuts and washers - 24 pcs. For the rest of the connections, we use screws or nails of a suitable length. With the help of a drill, it is necessary to prepare all the holes for the fasteners.

According to the drawing, we assemble the table top and the upper parts of the benches. We cut the crossbars along the edges, the angle should be 45. It is convenient to do this using a rotary miter box.

We make and attach all the legs to self-tapping screws. We fasten the parts cut at an angle.

We cover each board separately with varnish.

We tighten the product with studs and bolts. The holes for the studs must be pre-drilled with a drill. When installing the stud, you need to put on washers on both sides and tighten the nuts using a wrench.

We tighten the product with studs and bolts.

We fasten the seat boards with gaps of 5 mm or more. When the seats are connected to the sawn-off supports, we attach them to the assembled base with 160 cm boards: you need 4 boards.

Install the remaining studs and enjoy the result.

With the help of a drill, it is necessary to prepare all the holes for the fasteners.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden table in the gazebo

50 photo ideas: how to make this table with your own hands

Best remembered for a poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, where there is not enough space. To help you design a table that will only be remembered for its good looks, we provide some basic standards here.

HEIGHT OF THE TABLE. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE FEET... The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer side is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

Knee space... The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is moved to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimum is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THIGH... The distance from the seat to the bottom edge of the drawer side is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on a given chair pulled up to the table. Minimum 15 cm.

LOCKS SPACE... Side space on the table for everyone. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

DEPTH FOR HANDS... Front desk space for everyone seated. Less than 30 cm will be too little, and more than 45 cm is too much.

CHAIR SPACE... The distance from the edge of the table top to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away from the table. Architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Side table

When you hear the word table, don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Aren't you thinking about a table like the one drawn here? Yes, this design is the most primordial of the original. In the simplest version, a table - of a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and the side girdle form a solid yet open supporting structure. Structurally, many tables are trestle tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, writing desk. As you leaf through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table is usually found in a kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of being robust. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the generous dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong joinery connections. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with a side belt, many variations of it are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered, or carved. Even tsars can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiseled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square side-belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant Queen Anne-style cabriole legs of the table, the massive drawers make it a work table. The cutaway drawers at the third table create significant visual and practical differences, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room.

Country style table

This table is called by various names - country-style table, retro-style table, bar table - and by many different names. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with chiseled legs and prongs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawer belt and prongs. Legs, especially as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the strips can extend the life of the table for years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th and 18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in the countryside and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do indeed have massive leaks - albeit badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with a single mid-piece instead of two longitudinal ones to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had perimeter pro-legs. The design is straightforward. The trestles and prodogs cut with spikes into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, pins, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be infinitely changed. Just remember that you need a flat, rectangular surface for the drawer-to-leg connections. At the country-style table, you can also change the prongs - as in appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Side table with drawer and drawer

The name "table with a side-belt" refers rather not to style, but to construction. This type of table is a base for kitchen, library, writing desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two enhances the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used in its use can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small drawer is sufficient, in others the largest possible drawer is required; there are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a drawer. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the tsar. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the tsar with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90 ° to match the width of the leg. Spike joints provide rigidity. The design with two - supra-box and sub-box - bars is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in round table quite possible. But if the tsarovy belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the tsarg belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the tsarg.

An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central support. Its table top is attached to a central post, set on low, diverging legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, the table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the seated person's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk toppling the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the B-pillar and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval table top and - in accordance with the major and minor axes of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to tapering racks, and racks with table top brackets are connected with double spikes in the lugs. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square core rail to form an upwardly flared center support.

The pedestal table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-support tables or put an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased tilt resistance. Although the footprint may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of foot can be reasonably stable due to the weight of the foot.

Put a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its shape has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-manufacture collapsible table. Its elementary form is a panel or plywood sheet on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles cease to be free-standing, then such an assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half-wine goat consists of a fairly wide rack, cut into the leg at the bottom and into the table top bracket at the top. The wider the trestle, the better the table will resist swinging from side to side. A long massive piercing is cut into the racks. The table top is fixed to the trestle with screws, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is plenty of legroom under the tabletop, you shouldn't forget about the slip so that you don't bump your shins while sitting at the table. Also, the ends of the table top should protrude 35–45 cm beyond the trestle to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many gantry tables are collapsible. Common ways of attaching collapsible table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats were similar to saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Penilvan Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this uniform to America, and it can still often be found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian-shakers), who made many tables on trestles, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional lid board. Then regular table for a family can be enlarged to accommodate guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a side belt, cut into two parts and re-connected using special runners. Runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top should be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one person sitting.

Design options

The design of the sliding table can be varied, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and countertops practically does not affect general design... If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with a sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, an additional leg may be required to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching the drawers to the table top.

Sliding table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table, which has some advantages over a table with a side belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this shape as well. With such a table it is quite possible to make a sliding, folding, and hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding cover with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is split in two and the halves are connected by special sliding rails. Thus, these two cover sheets can be pushed apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of ​​the support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a corresponding cover sheet. When the cover is pushed apart, the support is also separated.

Design options

The basic form has a support that divides when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30–40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then a sliding table can be made on a non-split support. Another option is to make a table on two legs. The table with support for each sliding half can be extended by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with pull-out sections. It is easy to manufacture and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of a table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of tsars and legs is the presence of slots in the end tsars. The difference lies on top of the side bars and legs. Instead of attaching the countertop to the side girdle, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, fit onto the side leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the side bars. The existing central board, dividing the side sections, is fixed with screws on the side bars. The table top fits on top of the center board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the cover. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When extended, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the structure, you do not have to go looking for them in closets and pantries, when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You just slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with pull-out sections can be combined with all types of table supports, provided the drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-support table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-linear shapes. When folded, the side section is retracted under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section underneath a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and drawers.

Two-support table with pull-out
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover by means of hinges and when folded lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the "double" tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back on the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during a period of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the underframe, which creates sufficient space under the table for seated persons. The Y-shape of the legs will provide ample legroom for those seated at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the countertop over the baseboard (to ensure stability), the size of the base unit should be close to the size of the folded countertop. Consequently, a folding table top should be used on a type of table that would not look odd if the top overhang is too small. Good options such uses include side tables (as basic), side tables (shown here), and other tables and tables special purpose... When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding lids are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However, the sliding mechanism will work here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a "generic" name for all tables in which the sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common species and is present throughout American history... In any furniture style, from William and Mary to the modern, you will find a drop-board table, and this table has drop-boards as part of the structure. When not in use, they can be lowered to an upright position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. In the example shown here, slide-out holders are used - you lift the board up and from under it slide the support brackets (much like a drawer). Some other support systems see table with swivel frame legs, with swivel legs for a book table and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the drop boards, which can be optimally supported by the extendable or swivel / articulated arms. Make drop boards relatively narrow — say no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections — see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long hinged board like the example shown here will require more than one bracket. interesting name which applies to a relatively long utility table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as "Passion", creates in consciousness a picture of a large table spread out ", filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a drop-board table or a folding table.

Design options

While the base dining table is fairly long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular table top with sharp corners, the drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (table top) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. A short or square base can be fitted with a round, square or oval table top. You can round the corners of the flap sections or make their outer edges curved.

A book-table is the Russian name for a table with pivoting frame supports, which are hingedly attached to the tsar-leg-prong assembly. The support post is connected to the pivot post by the upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The pivot bearing was the predecessor to the pivot foot. It has many structural elements that reflect the state of the art of carpentry in the 16th century when it first appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is rigid and provides an excellent support for the folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), tables with one folding board and one swivel support were often found, and it happened, and vice versa, there were several leviaths with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were usually very narrow and saved a lot of space. A large table with two pivot legs on each dropboard could be made so that the legs pivot towards each other as well as away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the support posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When pivoted away from each other, the support legs will be positioned side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of a book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A secure support under the drop board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to do very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge table top

This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, which consists of a drawer side, legs and a projectile, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lightweight appearance. Rather size rather than pivot leg assembly is characteristic of this table. The diameter of the tabletop is only 107 cm and will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used for both actual breakfast and games and teas. Larger tables are likely to need additional pivot feet for improved support for the folding boards. The pivot joint - actually a wooden hinge - makes the pivot foot realizable. A sleeker option than shown here makes the connection look like a metal hinge.

Design options

The design of a swivel table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose the Queen Anne-style table as the “base” table, the swivel leg was used in the tables. different styles... The foot profile will usually be a style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Heppleight tables were made with tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Unfolded folding boards turn
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a frame pivot table over a pivot leg table is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, additional legs support them. An extendable leg table also has this advantage over a pivot table, but has one advantage over a frame pivot table: Like a pivot table, this table has an additional leg for each flip board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbeams are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal side bars and extend through the openings in the side bars. The leg is attached to the rungs. Raise the flip-up board, extend the leg, and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the drop-board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can hold very wide drop-boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each with excellent stability thanks to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is unobtrusive. By expanding the game table and pulling out the additional leg, you get a support at each corner of the tabletop. Ideally. The extendable legs are also a great addition to a long drop-board table. If you make two retractable legs under each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too much on it.

The armchair table owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and draughty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools... And if a piece of furniture could serve more than one function, well, so much the better. The table chair is clearly versatile. With the lid down, this is a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and graceful in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket connections. The pronounced shoe-shaped end of the leg makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is secured with a dovetail inset.