Electric heated floors. Electric floor heating - we will install an efficient heating system ourselves! Underfloor heating of infrared principle of operation

Usually, the accumulation of thermal energy in a room is carried out thanks to a whole range of works: installation or insulation of window and door blocks, installation of a high-quality heating system, insulation of ceilings, etc. Recently, special interest has been shown to lay an electrically heated floor with your own hands, which will be discussed in the article.

Warmth in the house

An underfloor heating system with electric underfloor heating consists of several pieces of equipment connected to an energy cable that is mounted in the floor structure. Installation is best done with the help of specialists, but with careful and accurate work, you can do everything yourself.

Of course, electric floor heating is not a panacea, because so that the room is always heated, it is impossible to do without insulated window and door blocks. As for the exploitation of such heating equipment, then it can be used to heat the premises during the entire cold season. No matter how beautiful the house is, the owner will not consider the photos of the existing rooms, but he will have to be in them every day, which is a reason to create comfortable living conditions in them.

The very installation of a warm floor can be a creative process, since the high flexibility of the base on which the heating element is fixed allows it to be used in a variety of ways. The installation procedure is not simplified and requires careful selection of the materials used, measurements, preparatory phase etc.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

TO positive sides electrically heated floors include the following features:

warming up a room with a similar warm system evenly and over the entire area;
the ability to regulate the degree of heating and turn on / off the system at any time;
the possibility of installation in any room.

Naturally, this heating method has certain disadvantages:

it is necessary to constantly monitor the operation of the system;
floors can be deformed if excessive heating occurs during uncontrolled use;
installation, maintenance and operation require excessive consumption of electrical energy;
Do not place furniture items on top of electrically heated floors. Considering that the mat or power cable may have different sizes, you can first make a schematization of the room and designate the zones for the installation of furniture;
it is important to understand what function it performs this system heating, so as not to worry about every kilowatt of electrical energy spent and not to be afraid to step on the floor again and then damage it.

The easiest way to install

An electrically heated floor is just a part of the floor, which consists of several layers of various materials with a specific functionality.

Typically connected electric underfloor heating under tiles or any other floor covering consists of the following components:

a thermal insulation layer laid on top of a waterproofing layer installed earlier;
end coupling;
special insulating tape for installation, used without any strict instructions, but in such a way that the fastening is reliable and durable;
a connecting tube for connecting sensors that control the operation of the system;
coupling. Read also: "".

determine a place for installing a thermostat or a special box for equipment that ensures the operation of the system;
carry out a clear marking of the room for the installation of furniture in such a way that there is no heating system under it;
connect the system to a 220 volt network.

The highest quality heating of a room can be produced only when the system covers more than two-thirds of the area.

Varieties of electric heating

When it comes to electric underfloor heating for laminate or any other coating, there are two main options for creating such a system. Note that laying a film underfloor heating under a laminate is more popular.

Each option involves the use of different heating materials:

the thinnest heating mats;
heating power cable.

In the case of mats, technology means laying them when it is impossible to raise the floor level. The thickness of the mat is 3 millimeters, which is both an advantage and a disadvantage. The disadvantage is that the heating efficiency is significantly lower than that of a power cable. Such a system can be used as an additional standard heating... In this case, the room will not change its visual outlines, no changes will be noticeable in the photo or during inspection.

An energy cable is a heating element that requires a floor level rise of at least 3 centimeters. Its installation can be carried out both indoors and outdoors. Of particular interest is small systems that can be installed under a roof or façade to prevent icing.

In this case, the selection of the cable is carried out according to the formula: P = SxPp, where:

P is the power of the cable, which the buyer has to find out;
S is the area of the room being heated;
Pp is the power required to heat a specific material.

The power for various materials is selected based on how the electrically heated floor is to be used. If the system is supposed to be an additional one, then the power of the cable relative to different materials will have the same values: tiles (130-150), porcelain stoneware (150-170), laminate (120-150), parquet (120-150), etc. When equipping the main heating system with a coverage of more than 70 percent: tiles (180-120), porcelain stoneware (200-220), etc.

Installation

If installation is carried out using mats, then installation is carried out as follows:

for a start, a high-quality base is prepared and primed if there are minor defects that are eliminated in this way;
the mat is laid;
temperature sensors are connected;
electric cables are fixed;
the leveling layer is poured. When laying tiles, you can lay the mat even in the adhesive layer used for installing tiles or under the laminate;
a waterproofing coating is laid;
finally, the floor is covered with the selected facing material;
mounts a thermostat.

In the case of a power cable, there is a certain difference caused by the need to increase the thickness of the coating by 3 centimeters or more. It consists in the fact that a substrate is applied over the thermal insulation, reflecting thermal energy... The screed of the required thickness is required. The cable itself is mounted under the screed, fastened to the reinforced mesh with plastic fasteners.

There is another way of laying the cable, which involves gluing the cable to the mounting tape. In this case, a reinforced mesh is not required.

Installation of electric heating

The maximum efficiency of the system can only be achieved if the work is carried out without deviations from the technology. It is very important to observe safety precautions when working with the electrical part, and then the implementation of the actions will not cause difficulties. It is worth remembering that you can always turn to specialists for help, who will take responsibility for completing all stages of installation, starting with the purchase of the necessary materials.

Actually, the floor itself with electric heating fits in 4 stages. When performing each of them, it is worth remembering the rules for working with electrical appliances, wiring, etc.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

for a start, an insulating layer and foil are laid;
mounting tape is laid on top. In this case, you can use a hammer and perform work by hand or use a special assembly gun;
the cable is laid out taking into account the fact that the cold ends must start from the electrical wiring of the thermostat;
then temperature sensors are mounted in the corrugated tubes, and the screed is poured.

Electrical Safety

It should be understood that the voltage used to work with a warm floor is dangerous, and each employee must take care of their own safety and compliance with all the rules for working with wiring.

installation instructions and the necessary assistance are best obtained from specialists or people who have already had the practice of such work;
any actions related to deformation of the purchased cable or mats are unacceptable. Do not cut the mats to make laying in hard-to-reach places easier, or lengthen the cable. Heating elements must be solid;
work is carried out only at temperatures above -5 degrees Celsius;
it is possible to test and operate the laid warm floor only after the expiration of the period allotted for the drying of the adhesive mixture, screed, etc. It is advisable to wait at least 1 month so that there are no problems associated with high humidity in the floor;
installation under furniture that does not have legs with a height of 5 centimeters or more must not be carried out.

Outcome

Lack of heat in the house is a big problem, which affects the comfort of living. You should not spare money for equipping the premises in such a way that comfort is constantly maintained in them. In this case, electrically heated floors are a versatile tool that will help solve any problem with heating a room. By following the instructions and clearly following all the steps, you can create a high-quality, efficient and durable heating system for your home.

With underfloor heating - both electric and water - I have repeatedly come across in the course of my professional activity and was able to be convinced of their effectiveness, based on my own feelings, and not on advertising brochures of manufacturers. I have experience in using underfloor heating not only as an additional source of heat, but also as the main one.

Therefore, now, when we have one that requires restructuring, warm floors are considered by us very closely and precisely as one of the options for solving the issue of heating, and not just to increase the level of comfort. Perhaps the knowledge I have will be useful to someone else. After all, "... dry, my friend, theory is everywhere, and the tree of life is magnificently green." In this article I want to touch on some practical points, the understanding of which comes with experience.

A small historical excursion

Using the floor of a room as a source of heat is traditional for Korean dwellings. Historians believe that such a heating system appeared in this country as early as the 1st century BC. It is called ondol and in rural areas it is regularly used up to the present time.

Most likely, such a heating system came to Korea from Of China, as evidenced by the name: the word "ondol" is translated from Chinese as "warm cavities". Although in China itself, a similar oven is called can. Its difference from the Korean version is that kang is not gender, but warm bed, it occupies part of the room and rises above the floor level. In the northern regions of China, there are types of kang, covering the entire area of the room, they are called di-can(half-canal). Judging by the old design in ours, the idea of a low stove-bench (like a kana) is multinational.

Arranged heating system ondol so: in the kitchen or outside the house there is a stove, the hearth of which is located below the floor level in the room. the furnace is laid in channels-cavities under the floor of the living room in the form of a horizontal collector. At the opposite wall, horizontal chimneys are combined into one vertical chimney, installed outside near the wall of the house, through which the combustion products are thrown away.

The cavities of the horizontal part of the chimney channels are covered from above with flat stones, their surface forms the floor of the room. To distribute heat evenly in the part of the room that is closer to the stove, thicker stones are used, and thinner stones are placed at the opposite end of the room, where the smoke temperature is already lower.

The seams between the stones are carefully covered with clay, then the floors are covered in several layers with oiled rice paper. In order for the heated floor to retain heat longer, stones were chosen of a sufficiently large thickness, at least 8-12 cm. Heating system living rooms by heating the floor with hot smoke, the oven was also used in Japan.

A similar heating method existed in Ancient rome and Greece, where it bore the name hypocaust. Most often, hypocaust was arranged in terms... Both ondol, hypocaust, and the Chinese version of ondoli - kan are still more related to ovens. The ancestor of underfloor heating consider an American architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

Why underfloor heating is an ideal heating system

While working on the construction of a hotel in Japan in the 1900s, Wright drew attention to the amazing comfort that heated floors created in rooms. The architect was so impressed with the effect that he considered Ondol the ideal heating system. Later, he used heating systems in his projects based on the principle of room heating in traditional Korean and Japanese dwellings, but instead warm gases in the chimney under the floor, applied with the current in them hot water... To understand why a heating floor is an ideal heating system, it is enough to remember my mother's instructions and physics lessons at school. Remember, Mom always said, "Keep your feet warm." A physics teacher at school explained that the density of warm air is less than that of cold air, so warm air is lighter and "floats", rises upward.

Underfloor heating principle

The principle of operation of a classic warm floor is based on the use of a heat carrier and a material with a high heat capacity. In the ondol heating system, the coolant is heated gases, and the heat-absorbing material (capable of accumulating and retaining heat for a long time) is stones and a layer of clay. In warm water floors, the heat carrier is the heated liquid in the pipes (water, antifreeze), and the heat accumulator is concrete screed and flooring, such as tiles or ceramics.

V electric floors an electric cable or other element heated by electric current serves as a heater. A good accumulating effect is achieved only with a sufficiently thick layer of material with a high heat capacity - at least 50 mm above the heating element.

Therefore, all solutions that do not imply the creation of an accumulation layer (warm floors "under the tiles", "under the laminate") are designed only as an additional heater to create comfort.

In addition to underfloor heating, in which heating occurs with hot air or smoke, several more types have been developed that differ in the heating system: electric, water, water-electric.

Electric underfloor heating

Heating component in electrical Underfloor heating - resistive or self-regulating element: electric cable, rod, amorphous alloy tape, carbon or bimetallic film. Regardless of the type of element, electrical energy in them is converted into heat.

Commercially available electric underfloor heating varies in power: there are options designed only to create an additional source of heat - comfortable floor heating, others are suitable for use as the main heating device. In the beginning, underfloor heating was only finished with ceramic or stone tiles. Now on sale there are heating floors that allow you to make the final floor covering by any: laminate, linoleum, even carpet.

Heating element - heating cable

In household underfloor heating, a resistive heating cable of different power is most often used. Resistive heating elements are called, in which the resistance, length and cross-section of the conductor are specially designed to produce a certain thermal power. Therefore, they cannot be shortened or lengthened: if the conductor is lengthened, the heating temperature will be lower, if shortened, it will be higher, and the heating cable will burn out faster.

The most popular are electric floors in the form of a thin electric cable, fixed on plastic mesh... This variety is called so - heating mats or thermomats... They are designed for a small coating thickness from above - 10-15 mm, including the thickness of the tiles. Underfloor heating systems on mats are used if it is not possible to significantly increase the thickness of the subfloor. These are the so-called warm floors "under the tiles".

Electric underfloor heating with b O Higher power ratings are usually sold as a cable in a coil. It has b O a larger section than that used on the mesh is single core and two-core... The heating cable is laid in a screed, that is, in a thicker layer of mortar, and can be used as the only heat source in the room, if the accumulating concrete layer is thick enough, which means it is heat-absorbing. In this case, the power of the cable is calculated taking into account the design heat loss of the room, on average - 100 W / m².

Core warm floors

Another type of electric underfloor heating - carbon rod mats... Their difference from cable heating floors is that the conductors in the carbon sheath are not resistive heating element, and self-regulating... That is, it is capable of changing power depending on the ambient temperature. Therefore, heating mats made of carbon rods can be installed regardless of location: you will always have the opportunity to rearrange a bulky cabinet without fear of overheating of the underfloor heating.

In addition, these floors do not require a thermostat. Heating floors made of carbon rods are placed under the tiles in a thin screed. Underfloor heating based on self-regulating heating elements is more economical than conventional (resistive) ones by about 20%. True, the kit itself is more expensive and, according to reviews, they fail quite quickly. Although there is one more positive feature: the connection of the heating elements is parallel, not in series, therefore, if one rod fails, the entire system continues to work.

Film warm floors

Film floors are of two types: carbon and bimetallic... Carbon ones are thin resistive heat elements connected in parallel by conductive copper buses. The whole structure is laminated with a polymer film.

In bimetallic heating elements there are two layers: the first one is made of copper alloy, the second one is made of aluminum alloy. Heating elements of small thickness are also sealed with a polymer film.

Film heater. Photo from the site termius.ru

The peculiarity of film floors is "dry" installation, which does not require a screed or an adhesive layer. The film simply rolls out underneath the flooring and can be easily removed and carried for installation elsewhere. Therefore, such a heating kit can be used for a device under a coating of laminate, linoleum and even simply laid under a carpet.

In our market, which brings together large online stores, there are different variants equipment for the installation of an electric underfloor heating. Take a look at the section.

Warm floor HotPanel Electric Heating Panel 1500х850mm 4 198 rbl
Pleer.ru

Warm floor AURA KTA-23-400 2 808 rub
Pleer.ru

Warm floor Green Box GB 60.0m / 850W 4630038310480 RUB 5,799
Pleer.ru

Warm floor NeoClima Standart 150-0.5-3.5 RUB 1,700
Pleer.ru

The subtleties of installing an electric underfloor heating: personal experience

Any manufacturer of electric underfloor heating includes installation instructions in the packaging with its product. There is a lot of information about the device of heating floors (both electric and water) and on the Internet.

However, theory is good, but in practice it happens that what is neatly written in an advertising brochure and instructions for installation and assembly does not want to fold, assemble and assemble as the design engineers intended. The next section is a practical experience, which is "the son of difficult mistakes."

About stacking thermomats

Manufacturers and sellers claim that the installation of an electric floor in the form of thermomats can be done directly in the glue line when laying tiles. From practice, it is better to pour the laid mats with a cable separately with a thin layer of a floor leveler, so that the cable just disappears. And after drying, glue the tiles.

This will make it easier to lay the tiles, there is no danger that the mesh with the cable will move or the cable itself will be damaged with a notched trowel. Yes, and you don't have to worry that the cable may be damaged by the fall of an object on the floor. It is worth choosing an equalizer based on cement, and not gypsum: firstly, tile adhesive may not adhere well to the gypsum leveling material, and secondly, gypsum has low thermal conductivity.

Another point: the mesh with the heating cable has an adhesive layer on the back to fix the mat to the surface. In fact, this glue is usually either dry and does not stick, or it simply does not stick, because the floor surface in real conditions is far from similar to smooth glass. Sometimes scotch tape helps, but it is better to use some kind of quick-drying mixture (but not gypsum), with which you can fix the mesh with the cable on the floor.

If the finished thermomat does not fit the shape of the room, then the mesh can be carefully cut without damaging the cable and spread out freely, taking into account the step between the rows and the characteristics of the room.

Thermomats can also be used under laminate or linoleum; in this case, a thin-layer screed must be cast over the mesh with the cable from the same leveling material.

The nuances of installing a cable underfloor heating

There is a special mounting tape for fixing the heating cable, which is attached to the floor with dowel-nails. It is also possible to fix the cable to the reinforcing mesh for the screed laid on the heat insulator layer, if used.

(polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam, foamed expanded polypropylene) for underfloor heating is necessary if there is an unheated room below or. The choice depends on the specific conditions: the calculated value of heat loss, floor material and others.

If there is a warm room below (for example, a neighbor's apartment or the lower floor of a house), thermal insulation can be omitted. However, it must be understood that the use of thermal insulation will reduce the consumption of thermal energy and make heating with a warm floor more efficient: all the heat will be directed to heating the floor, reflecting from the insulation layer.

To prevent the cable from overheating, on top of the heat-insulating layer, before laying the cable, you need to cast an intermediate tie or lay it on an armoring metal mesh with plastic ties. Then, during the pouring of the screed, the solution will flow under the cable, separating it from the thermal insulation, and it will not overheat.

About "locking"

Both the heating cable and heating mats should be laid only in the open space of the room, having foreseen the places for installing bulky furniture or household appliances in advance.

In the photo below, the warm floor is laid in the bathroom and in the place where the bathtub will then stand and Washer, no cable. Also, one cable cannot be used if the room has areas with floor covering that have different thermal conductivity (for example, ceramic tile and laminate), or use one cable system to heat adjacent rooms, insulated with a door. Better to make separate heating zones with different cables.

To regulate the floor temperature, a thermostat is used, the sensor of which is placed between the cable loops approximately in the center of the room. The sensor is placed in a plastic crimp, plugging the end, for example, with electrical tape. There are thermostats on sale that allow you to connect several separate devices to one device. cable systems.

Variants of electric underfloor heating that are not afraid of "locking" under bulky furniture are systems with self-regulating elements. For example, rod or electro-liquid (we will talk about them a little below).

About the installation of beacons and screed

Beacons are installed on top of the unfolded and fixed cable (this applies to heating floors with a thick accumulating screed). To fix the beacons, you cannot use gypsum-based mixtures: at the points of contact between the cable and gypsum, due to the poor thermal conductivity of the gypsum mixtures, the cable will overheat and may burn out.

But such mixtures are used because they quickly solidify, which is required for the installation of beacons. The way out is: use Repair composition(for example, from "Kreps" or "Plitonit", IVSIL RENDER mix). Fast-hardening tile adhesive is also suitable (for example, IVSIL EXPRESS +, EK Fast Fix, Knauf Schnelkleiber, CERESIT CM-14, PLITONIT B, Express Wb).

As a last resort, you can add a little gypsum to the cement mortar or gypsum plaster: the mixture will quickly set, and its composition will be closer to the cement one. Do not forget that the lifetime of such mixtures is very short - 10-15 minutes. Mix a small amount, which you will have time to develop during this time. If a gypsum-based mixture is nevertheless chosen for the installation of beacons, then you need to carefully monitor so that it does not come into contact with the heating cable, as in the photo above.

When pouring a screed into a solution, it is necessary to add a special plasticizer for underfloor heating and fiberglass - due to increased thermal loads. Another option is to use a special dry cement mix for underfloor heating, it already has this plasticizer. This also applies to the screed device for water-heated floors.

Don't forget to check the cable

Before pouring the tie, you need to check the integrity of the cable by measuring the resistance. Additionally, I recommend checking the intactness of the laid cable again immediately before laying the topcoat. If damage is found, then you only have to open the screed without spoiling the final finish.

When pouring, you need to control so that the cable does not float. If this does happen, it is necessary to immerse the surfaced area in the solution until it hardens. Otherwise, the section of the cable, over which the concrete thickness is much less, will experience increased loads, which will affect the service life of the heating floor.

It is necessary to turn on the warm floor only after the screed has completely dried - not earlier than in a month. If you hurry, air pockets can form around the cable, and this will lead to its overheating in these places and, as a result, failure.

About two-core and single-core electrical cable

As mentioned above, the heating cable is sold two-core and single core... What is their difference, and which one should you choose? There is an opinion that a two-core one heats more - like, there were two. And the second common misconception is that a single-core is intended only for laying in non-residential premises(boiler rooms,), because it emits electromagnetic radiation harmful to humans. In the case of a two-wire, the electromagnetic radiation of the two conductors supposedly mutually extinguishes each other.

This is not true. The difference between a cable with one core and two is only in the ease of installation: when using a single-core cable, the other end will have to be returned back to the point of origin. This requires an additional calculation of the configuration of the loops when laying the cable and in rooms with complex shapes it can be difficult.

A two-core cable carries 2 wires under the insulation: a current-carrying one - heating, with high resistance, and a normal one - zero. And they are closed in the terminal coupling. Therefore, it is easier to lay a two-core cable: there is no need to think about how to put the other end back. Both cables heat equally at the same rated power. Two cores by no means mean a 2-fold increase in power.

There really is electromagnetic radiation. But its value is insignificant and does not affect health. And the difference of the electromagnetic radiation compensated by the second conductor in comparison with the radiation of a single-core conductor is even less significant for it to have any significance. A two-core cable is more expensive, you have to sell it somehow.

Water heated floors

In water-heated floors, the heating element is a pipe in which a heated liquid circulates - water or antifreeze. A boiler is used to heat the liquid. There are two types of water-heated floors: with a concrete screed and a dry flooring system.

Underfloor heating with concrete screed

The traditional solution is an underfloor heating pipe, poured into concrete. The screed serves as a battery, so such floors are heated with radiant heat, like a brick oven.

Such a floor heats up for a rather long time and cools down even longer. In the attic apartment described above, after the first switch-on, the floors were heated for a day and a half. And when it was necessary to adjust the external air temperature sensor, I had to wait almost 3 days for the air in the apartment to cool down enough for the device to work. Therefore, water-heated floors with a concrete screed are the ideal solution for creating a heating system.

Dry flooring system of underfloor heating

Today, solutions for water-heated floors are often used, based on the creation of a mirror that evenly distributes and reflects heat upwards - flooring water floors... The construction of decking floors uses polystyrene mats with spikes, like those of the Lego constructor, for laying pipes. In some cases, these mats have a layer of heat insulator on the back. The kit often includes aluminum fins with pipe grooves that allow heat to be quickly absorbed and reflected into the room.

Since there is nowhere to accumulate heat, the "dry" water floors quickly warm up, but just as quickly and cool down when the heating is turned off. Such a system can only be used as an additional heat source.

The advantage of "dry" water floors in the low weight of the entire structure - they can be arranged if the floors are not designed for heavy loads from the screed (for example, on wooden floors). Other advantages: the absence of "wet" processes, the speed of work - you can make a finishing coating and turn on the heating system immediately after installing the pipes, without waiting for a month, or even more, until the concrete screed dries up and gains final strength.

The use of a decking system may be the best solution if it is not possible to increase the level of the subfloor. In the attic shown as an example, it was necessary to first remove the existing screed up to the concrete floor (almost 8 tons), then lay the underfloor heating pipe and make a new screed almost 80 mm thick.

In addition, the use of a decking system makes it easier to install underfloor heating with a wood finish.

Electro-liquid underfloor heating

This is a modern solution in the field of underfloor heating - hybrid of water and electric... Its designers tried to combine all the best qualities of both options, and to neutralize the disadvantages of each.

Such a system is a conventional PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, inside which there is an electrical conductor and a heat carrier - an antifreeze liquid. The entire structure is pressurized at the factory, the fluid is under pressure.

This system does not require a boiler to heat the coolant; it is heated by electricity. Due to the generated pressure, heating is faster and more economical. Unlike a water-heated floor, the temperature of the coolant is the same along the entire length of the pipe. Of the minuses - the price and the limited length of the pipe, because it is sold in pieces already ready for installation, designed for a certain area of \ u200b \ u200bthe room.

Capillary underfloor heating

Another option for a water heated floor. A pipe is a bundle of thin tubes (capillaries) through which a small amount of water circulates and is heated by the control unit. It combines a micro-heating element, a small one, and a temperature control automation.

Both electro-liquid and capillary versions can be mounted in the traditional way (screed) or "dry" on the floor. Both of these types of underfloor heating can be used as the main source of heat, provided that a heat-accumulating screed is installed above the pipes. it good decision for an apartment where it is not possible to make classic water-heated floors due to centralized heating.

About water heated floors and the law

Today you can often find recommendations for the installation of water heated floors in apartment buildings using central heating. As far as I know, the law prohibits this: by changing the type of heating in an apartment, you affect the entire heating system at home, regardless of whether the upper distribution of water for heating in the house or the lower.

It is possible to make a water-heated floor in an apartment only if the heating wiring is for apartments or each apartment has an individual boiler. But in a private house there are no such barriers in the installation of water heated floors. If it is impossible, but really want to, then the above-described electro-liquid and capillary systems will become the solution.

Right now I am sitting at the table in thick woolen socks that look more like felt boots, and I think that they will definitely be in our house, rebuilt in the future. If only because the main problem of a country house and stove heating is the cold floor.

Warm water floors, or as they are often called, heated water floors, have become a completely familiar definition of interiors not only for wealthy owners, but also for most owners of ordinary apartments. If twenty years ago it was perceived as something unusual, then today day, as a common occurrence, which does not go beyond the scope of a typical set for maximum comfortable stay... In the areas of recent medical research, a lively discussion has arisen about the benefits of such floors for the human body. Most scientists have come to the conclusion that the heat emitted by a heated water floor disrupts the natural circulation of blood in the pelvic organs and lower extremities.

But, naturally, there is no real evidence that this is true. Just like there is no evidence of harm from microwaves or cell phones. Therefore, water floor heating is no less in demand today than it was in the last decade.

All devices for warm water floors can be roughly divided into three classes:

1. Warm floors using water heating;
2. Warm floors using electric heating;
3. Warm floors using infrared radiation.

Electric underfloor heating or hot water underfloor heating - what to choose? Of course, electric heating is not considered as an option for cost-effective underfloor heating, since electricity rises in price much faster than other heat sources. There is no difference in what method is carried out in the transfer of thermal energy - combined radiation of heat with electric heating in the form of a mat or cable, or direct radiation from the surface of the infrared film.

That is why water floor heating is currently considered the most economical and in a safe way heating of premises.

Moreover, if the installation of the system is carried out correctly, the manufacturers guarantee 50 years of trouble-free operation of all elements of the device.

Design features

The main difference between warm water floors and electric ones is in the heating element. In the warm water floor, there is a pipeline laid in a screed, through which it passes hot water... And in warm electric floors, a special heating cable serves as a heating element, to which a certain voltage is supplied. It is worth considering that the hot water that circulates in the systems of water heated floors with underfloor heating is an admittedly dangerous environment, an element enclosed in a very thin shell of a special pipeline, there are significant restrictions on the possibility of installing warm water floors in private and multi-storey buildings.

For example, it is strictly forbidden to install water heated floors in apartments that are located above the first floor. Despite the fact that there are no other non-residential or residential premises in the basement or basement. Do not insert water floors into the water circulation return or central heating system.

Such restrictions significantly narrow the area of real estate objects in which heated water floors can be installed. It looks something like this. If you are going to build your own house, then in it you have the opportunity to arrange water floor heating on all floors. In the event of a flooding or rupture of the pipeline, you will not harm anyone except yourself, and only you will need to solve the problems. If you live on the first floor of a multi-storey building, and under you is the most ordinary one, then you can also safely install warm water floors.

There is one more feature of warm water floors, when the installation is connected with a device. cement mortar... It is worth noting that it is not just horrible, but "floating". So, what is the fundamental difference? And the difference is in the complexity of the installation itself and preparation for it. Since first it is necessary to dismantle the old floor covering to the floor slab. If your house has floors made of wooden joists, then you can immediately forget about warm water floors.

Water underfloor heating implies only concrete floors, because it will be necessary to arrange a new cement screed causing a significant load on the floors.

If you have concrete base, and you live on the ground floor, you can start laying a multi-layer sandwich of thermal insulation, waterproofing and expansion tapes, along which you will need to lay a suitable pipeline and lead it to the collector. Further, the whole thing is compressed and at the end it is poured with a concrete screed.

The solution used to fill the screed can be completely different. But most often they use a "self-leveling" solution. The work with which it is supposed to be used special equipment... Which, of course, is reflected in the cost for square meter... In addition, after the floors are poured, it is forbidden to use them for another month, or at least until the solution gains the necessary strength characteristics.

Self-assembly of warm water floors

In order to install the warm water floor system yourself, you must carefully study the instructions for installing and correcting possible problems in the system. You need to know that there is a manual with answers to absolutely all questions. You must understand that underfloor heating is an individual approach to the installation of the entire system.

If you master all the nuances and some secrets in the installation of warm water floor systems, you can easily install the warm floor yourself and achieve maximum heat transfer from such floors. It is worth remembering that water-heated floors can function both as the main source of heating and as an additional one, therefore, in order not to freeze in winter, it is necessary to seriously approach this matter in summer. Every summer, when the heating is turned off, it is necessary to carry out preventive work to promote correct work the entire system.

Underfloor heating is very popular and can be installed under almost any topcoat. You can make do-it-yourself heated floors by following the instructions.

You can turn on the warm floor after the screed has completely dried, gradually increasing the temperature within three days after installation.

There are such types of underfloor heating systems:

water heating;
heating mats;
cable system;
infrared thermal film.

Underfloor heating

Materials:

waterproofing film;
thermal insulation (polystyrene);
damper tape;
reinforcement mesh;
polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes for heating with a diameter of 16-20 mm;
pipe fittings;
dry mix for the screed device;
manifold cabinet with accessories;
circulation pump;
water heating boiler with shut-off valves;
fitting.

Instruments:

tool for welding polypropylene pipes;
screwdriver;
saw Rotorazer Saw;
carpentry tools;
chisel;
building level;
roulette.

Stages of laying a water-heated floor:

Preparation of the base for laying underfloor heating. The surface must be free of debris and dust. If it has irregularities with a drop of 2-3 cm, it must be leveled.
Laying waterproofing to protect the thermal insulator from moisture. Along the perimeter of the room on the walls, you need to stick a damper tape with a width equal to the height of the future floor level.
Surface reinforcement. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the heat-insulating layer, which will ensure an even distribution of the load.
Pipe laying. They should be fixed to the reinforcing mesh with special clips, fixing strips or ties, while avoiding excessive rigidity, since the pipes slightly expand during heating. The attachment points should be 1 m apart. If the underfloor heating will carry the function of auxiliary heating, then pipes should be laid in 30 cm increments, if the main one - 15-20 cm.One collector should have about 60 m of pipes. For rooms with large areas, several contours are required.
Checking the work of the warm floor. When the installation is completed and all circuits are connected to the supply and return pipes, you need to check how the system works. Under high pressure water is supplied to the pipes at a constant temperature. If the system is working satisfactorily, proceed with the filling of the screed.
Filling the screed. It can have a thickness of 3-7 cm. It takes 28 days to dry.

The underfloor heating system can be turned on when the screed is completely dry, and gradually increase the temperature over 3 days.

Pipes can be laid parallel, in a spiral, in a spiral with an off-center, meander, etc.

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Heating mats

Tools and materials for laying heating mats:

heating mats;
thermostat;
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
mounting tape, electrical tape;
electronic tester.

Installation steps for heating mats:

Checking heating mats. The working resistance must match the one indicated on the system packaging. This can be checked with an ohmmeter or multimeter.
Selecting the location of the sensor and the output of cables. The device of recesses in the floor for connecting wires and in the wall for the junction box and channel for quick replacement of the sensor.
Cleaning and priming the substrate for better adhesion of the screed or tile adhesive.
Fastening the sensor of the underfloor heating system into the made recess. The sensor must not cross or be adjacent to the heating cable.
When installing heating mats, place the connecting wires close to the sensor and thermostat.
Secure the mats. They can be fixed to the floor in different ways: with mortar or adhesive tape.
Install a thermostat to adjust the temperature of the underfloor heating. A sensor mounted on a wall at a height of 1 m from the floor will display the temperature.
After installing the heating mat system, check its operation. The cable should not be damaged or kinked, its resistance should be equal to the values specified in the instructions, the screen should not come into contact with the cable cores.
Pour screed or tile.

When laying strips of mat to and from the wall, they need to be unrolled. Leave a distance of at least 6 cm between the turns of the cable.

Do not lengthen or shorten the heating cable. You can only cut the mesh in certain places.

In difficult places for laying mats, the heating cable can be independently removed from the net and laid in random order with a distance of at least 6 cm.

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Electric underfloor heating

Materials:

thermal insulation material;
plaster mesh;
plastic clips;
single-core or twin-core cable;
thermostat with a temperature sensor;
corrugated plastic tube;
dowels;
mounting tape;
alabaster;
primer;
sand, cement and screed plasticizers.

Instruments:

puncher;
chisel;
hammer;
scissors for metal;
ruler;
notched trowel;
container for solution.

The installation of the electrical cable is almost the same as the installation of heating mats. Stages of laying an electric underfloor heating:

Draw up a styling plan. The cable does not fit under the stationary furniture.
Install heat-insulating material with a heat-reflective coating.
Lay and fix the cable according to the diagram drawn up. It can be fastened with a mounting tape with fasteners to the base or with plastic clamps to a metal mesh.
Make a mark on the floor where the stationary furniture and plumbing fixtures will be located, and proceed to mark the area for the cable.
Mount the heating cable on the floor according to the instructions.
Install the thermostat.
Check cable operation.
Fill the screed.

Electric floor heating: calculation and installation

Today, electric floor heating is not uncommon, but the most necessary, especially if tiles are laid on the floor in the bathroom or in the bathroom. Underfloor heating with electric heating is based on a multi-layer heating cable, which, being heated from passing through it, allows you to convert electricity into heat.

Also, in addition to heating cables, at the present time you can find in the construction of warm floors and a special infrared film (the so-called). The principle of operation of infrared warm floors is based on converting electricity into infrared radiation.

Consider the basic design of electrically heated floors, as well as the possibility of their own installation.

After all necessary calculations produced, and the materials for the warm floor purchased, you can start doing the work yourself.

Electric floor heating: DIY installation

So, let's consider the basic procedure for installing electrically heated floors:

The first thing to do is prepare the floor. You may need to cast a small screed if you need to level the base or adjust it to a specific height. The main thing is that the base on which the warm floor was laid would be strong enough and without strong drops in level.

The second step is installation. To this end, on the wall in the room with warm floors, a shallow recess should be made to install the box under the thermostat. In this case, the height of the box from the floor should be within 0.5-1 meters. In addition, from the box down to the floor, you need to grind a small groove that will be used for laying the wires.

At the third stage, foil insulation should be laid on the floor, securely connecting the joints with tape. Further, on top of the insulation, you will need to fix the mounting tape under the warm floors (in increments of 0.5-1 m) using screws or self-tapping screws.

Then the power supply and grounding wires of the warm floors are connected to the box in the wall, after which the heating elements are fastened to the mounting tape according to the "loop" or "parallel lines" scheme.

On the final stage, between two heating elements of underfloor heating, a temperature sensor should be placed. For these purposes, you should take a piece corrugated pipe, plug one end on it, then place it between the heating cables and insert the temperature sensor inside.

After all the elements of the underfloor heating with electric heating are laid, you can connect the heating cable and temperature sensor to the thermostat. Now it remains to check how the underfloor heating works, measure and compare its resistance with the specified value by the manufacturer, after which you can start pouring a thin screed.

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