Propagation of grapes by cuttings in the fall at home: how to prepare and store until spring. All about the proper planting and cultivation of grapes by cuttings How to get grape seedlings from cuttings

Viticulture is an occupation, although troublesome, but rewarding. Therefore, a rare summer resident, having mastered the principles of caring for one bush, does not dream of planting a whole plantation on his site. Grapes reproduce only vegetatively, and if you learn how to cut them, there will never be problems with planting material. In the article we will talk about the reproduction of grapes by cuttings for beginners, we will consider the main issues of cuttings.

When and how to harvest grape cuttings

Grape cuttings (chubuk) are harvested in autumn, after leaf fall, and stored until spring. Such difficulties are needed in order to keep as many productive eyes as possible. The vine begins to be prepared for cuttings at the end of summer, when the crop ripens. The wood must mature properly, because green cuttings will not be able to be stored for a long time. To speed up the maturation of wood, they do two things: stop watering and give phosphorus-potassium top dressing - for example, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate.

Cutting and preparation of cuttings is carried out as follows:

With a sharp clean pruner, a thin top is cut off at the vine.
The lower and central parts are divided into segments 50-70 cm long.
Chubuks are densely sprayed with a fungicide solution - for example, Ronilan or Topsin-M.
Dip the top and bottom cut into melted, not hot paraffin.

Tip #1 The procedure for preparing the chibouks is carried out as quickly as possible, not allowing the cut material to lie for a long time. This allows you to keep as much moisture as possible in the tissues of the cuttings.

Grape cuttings are harvested with a margin - not all can be preserved in winter, and not each of those saved will subsequently give roots.

Storing grape cuttings at home

Successful preservation of cuttings in winter requires two conditions: low temperature and high humidity. Beginning growers usually do not plant a large number of chibouks. Therefore, for them, the most convenient place to save planting material will be an ordinary refrigerator.

So that the cuttings do not wake up ahead of time, the storage temperature should not rise above + 4-5 0 C. These are the values \u200b\u200bthat are maintained in the vegetable compartment or on the door of standard refrigerators:

The stored material is inspected and moistened from time to time. Rotting cuttings are discarded, healthy ones are treated with a fungicide and laid in place.

To maintain humidity, several small potatoes can be placed in a container with cuttings.

3 mistakes when rooting grape chibouks

Starting to root the saved cuttings, novice fruit growers sometimes make mistakes that lead to death. planting material:

Mistake #1. Not right choice rooting start time.

Mistake #2. Failure to comply with the temperature conditions of rooting.

For proper root germination, the temperature at the heel of the cutting must be higher than at the top. If it is the other way around, the eyes will first start to grow, and the emerging shoot will use up the supply of nutrients before the roots begin to grow. Even if the chubuk does not die, the seedling will come out of it weak and painful.

Mistake #3. Improper preparation of cuttings for rooting.

Under the most ideal storage conditions, cuttings lose some of their moisture by spring. Dried chibouks will either not germinate at all, or they will stop growing very quickly and die. Therefore, before rooting, they must be soaked in soft water for about two days, after updating the lower and upper cuts.

Tip #2 It is possible to determine whether there is enough moisture in the handle and whether it is time to remove it from the soaking container by squeezing at the heel zone. If drops of water are found on the cut when pressed, the soaking is stopped.

Rooting method for shank according to P.P. Radchevsky

To stimulate the formation of roots on the shank are used different ways. One of the simplest is the method of the professor of the Kuban Agrarian University Pyotr Radchevsky.

Rooting according to Radchevsky is done like this:

Liter jars are filled with soft filtered water by 3 cm.
Chubuks prepared for rooting are placed in water. The top renewed section must be re-paraffinized.
Banks are placed on a warm, light windowsill.
Water is added as necessary, without crossing the three-centimeter mark. If the window sill is hot, it is better to open the window slightly so that the upper part of the cuttings is cool. At the same time, make sure that the water remains warm.
When the roots reach a length of 2-3 mm, the chibouks are planted in glasses with soil.

The advantages of the Radchevsky method are simplicity and efficiency. The percentage of rooting is high, and the seedlings are strong. The disadvantage is the excessive fragility of the roots.

In water for rooting according to Radchevsky, you can add a drug to stimulate root formation.

Rooting method for shank according to N.L. Puzenko

An agronomist from Volgograd, Natalya Puzenko, proposed a rooting method, which is as follows:

Arrange the shank prepared for rooting on a piece of damp, clean cloth.
Wrap the bottom of the cuttings with a cloth, leaving the top free.
Place a film on top of the fabric to retain moisture.
Lay the packages horizontally on a cabinet or refrigerator so that the tops are directed towards the window.
Regularly check the moisture content of the fabric, spray it with a spray bottle.

The advantage of the technique is simplicity, space saving, high percentage of rooting. The roots on the chibouks appear before the eyes wake up, which makes future seedlings strong and strong. If you strictly follow the technology, there are no drawbacks to the Puzenko method.

Rooting grape cuttings in substrates

You can also germinate chibouks directly in containers with substrates. This technique was developed in detail by the Belarusian viticulturist Vadim Tochilin. As a container for rooting, you can use tall plastic glasses, cut bottles, cans of suitable height, milk bags.

The essence of the method is simple:

Chubuki are disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours and soaked in water.
The lower cut is updated and processed by Kornevin or Heteroauxin.
The container is filled with a moist rooting substrate.
The cuttings are placed in the substrate so that about 5 cm remains to the bottom.
The container is placed above the battery near the window and covered with a cut bottle or bag on top to keep high humidity. As the substrate dries, it becomes moistened.

For rooting cuttings using this method, you can use different kinds substrate:

substrate	Advantages	Flaws
Sawdust	Availability, low cost, breathability, good water-holding capacity.	There is a risk of waterlogging the substrate. Mold growth is possible - good disinfection is required.
Vermiculite	High moisture absorption capacity, sterility, air permeability.	High price.
moss sphagnum	Air permeability, moisture capacity, antiseptic properties.	Not detected.
coco substrate	Looseness and breathability, sterility, high moisture capacity.	Not detected.

The advantages of the Tochilin method are a high yield of rooted cuttings. Disadvantages - the risk of overgrowing the roots, which can break off during transplantation, and wasteful space.

Caring for rooted grape cuttings

Chubuki are transplanted into nutrient soil when the length of the roots reaches 2-3 mm. The containers must be high so that the chibouk is immersed in them for almost the entire length. Leave a top about 5 cm long on the surface.

Growing is carried out until mid-late May, and at this time, the growing seedlings need careful care. Watering is carried out approximately every 10 days, depending on the rate of drying of the soil. Water must be supplied from below, so drainage holes must be made in advance in the containers.

For the normal development of seedlings, a lot of light is needed. If natural lighting is scarce, you need to illuminate the grapes with fitolamps. A few days before the transplant open ground seedlings begin to harden, taking out during the day Fresh air. Immediately before transplanting, you can let the plants spend the night outside.

Lighting equipment - required element gardener's arsenal, providing plants with the conditions for full-fledged photosynthesis.

Fertilizers for rooted cuttings of grapes

Top dressing of grapes begins at the stage of growing. Read also the article: → "". For this, it is better to use special formulations:

Name	Description	Application
"A clean slate for grapes"	Water-soluble mineral complex with a predominance of nitrogen. Stimulates the growth of the seedling, helps the formation of a healthy root system.	Dissolve 1 scoop in 5 liters of water and apply with irrigation.
"Florovit for grapes"	A granular complex that activates vegetation, improves immunity and relieves stress from adverse conditions.	Make a solution according to the instructions and apply with watering.
"BiOPON for grapes"	Multicomponent complex providing good nutrition growing seedling. Accelerates growth and entry into fruiting.	Divide a pinch into glasses and pour over the grapes well. Bring into the planting hole when transplanting.
"Healthy Aqua for grapes"	liquid organo mineral fertilizer, accelerating the formation of the root system and a powerful leaf apparatus.

Heat-loving grapes are grown today everywhere, propagating varieties and hybrid forms of culture. For planting, seedlings are purchased in nurseries or cuttings are used. Growing grapes from cuttings at home is troublesome, but gardeners are not stopped by difficulties. Thanks to their own planting material, plants are more resistant to local climatic conditions. In addition, full-fledged seedlings of a favorite variety are grown this way.

When planning planting, take into account the climate of the region. In the south, various, including late varieties of grapes are suitable for cultivation. In the conditions of central Russia, the Moscow region, the regions of the North-West and further to the north, a culture of early ripening is selected. In the south, you can plant grapes with cuttings in the fall, in the spring the seedlings will quickly grow.

In addition to the growing season, pay attention to the frost resistance of the variety, resistance to diseases and infections. In areas with a short summer, it is recommended to plant a capricious "southerner" in greenhouses. It is taken into account that in closed ground there is a high risk of damage to grapes by fungal diseases. But greenhouse method cultivation will allow you to collect good harvests of berries and enjoy their taste.

Growing grape cuttings

Growing grape cuttings is not so difficult, methods are available even for beginner growers. Compliance with certain methods of agricultural technology, care and maintenance - this is the main thing that culture requires.

Cutting cuttings

First, let's define terminology. Cuttings (or chibouks) are commonly called part of a grape shoot with several buds. To obtain planting material in the fall, they begin cutting shoots. The timing of the procedure - after the complete fall of the foliage from the bushes. Helpful hints:

for cutting, shoots are selected that gave the largest clusters of berries in the season.
it is desirable to choose straight branches without curvature;
cuttings are cut only at positive air temperature.

Two-year-old branches are suitable for cuttings, without spots, bark defects. The optimal thickness size is 0.7-1 cm, but the parameters depend on the characteristics of the variety. There are grape varieties that originally have thin vines.

On a note!

Shoots with thick loose wood are not suitable for cuttings.

Choose healthy bushes with characteristics characteristic of a particular variety. The length of the shank is determined by the number of buds. The most suitable ones are with two or three eyes, although shoots with one or four buds take root well.

Cuttings are cut, observing certain rules:

the lower cut is made obliquely, slightly retreating from the lower kidney;
the upper cut is straight, a distance of 3-4 cm is left above the eye.

Thanks to the different cuts, later it is easy to figure out where the chibouk has the top and where is the bottom. Sometimes gardeners cut the vine into long segments - 60-120 cm, and in the spring they divide them into cuttings.

After cutting, the shoots are tied according to varieties, marked, processed and laid on.

Storage

Suitable for storage:

refrigerator shelf (if there are few cuttings);
dry basement;
a plot in the country, where the cuttings are laid in trenches and covered until spring.

In a region with snowy winters, it is convenient to store in snowdrifts.

Before laying the chubuks are prepared for wintering:

Soak in basins or flat containers with water, laying the shoots horizontally. The water should lightly cover the plants. Deadline - days.
Then soak for 5-10 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (300 grams per bucket of water).
Dry.
Wrapped in cling film in bundles.

For better preservation, some gardeners paraffin cuts of shoots. Instead of a film for storage, ordinary plastic bottles will fit.

Storage temperature: from 0 to +5ºC, if it is higher, the kidneys will begin to swell. Chubuks are stacked, without mixing, in bunches according to grades.

During storage, the pipes are checked periodically. Finding that buds swell on the shoots, lower the temperature. To do this, the grapes are removed to a colder place (in the basement), transferred to another, colder shelf in the refrigerator.

When wintering in a snowdrift until the snow falls, the grapes are kept in bundles in sacking. As soon as the first frost hits, the bundles are transferred to the basement. After snowfalls, shoots are packed in white sandbags, in plastic bottles and buried in snowdrifts. The depth of the snow cover on top must be at least 50 cm.

Preparing for landing

Well-preserved grape cuttings after wintering quickly take root. Before planting, inspect all specimens, throwing out diseased or damaged shoots.

Examine the bark of the cuttings. It should not have dark spots, rot, deformations.
Carefully cut the stem across. If the cut is brown or black, then the cutting is not suitable for planting. In high-quality chibouks, the cut is light green, slightly moist. Moisture should be a little, a few drops.

After examining the cuttings, it is required to “wake up”. This is done to revitalize the tissues of the plant, preparing for germination.

Grapes are placed in shallow containers with warm water for 1.5-2 days. After that, for a few more hours, the shoots are immersed in a solution with a root former.

On a note!

To stimulate the formation of roots, preparations Kornevin, Zircon, aloe juice or honey solution are suitable (a tablespoon in a bucket of water).

Gardeners with experience plant cuttings without prior germination, immediately into pots with soil. But there is a risk that cuttings without roots will not take root. For insurance, it is recommended to first germinate the chibouks, and only then, with roots, plant them in pots.

Germination

To awaken the roots, different methods are used:

germination in water;
germination in wet sawdust.

Long vines are preliminarily cut into cuttings, then a few scratches are made at the bottom of the cuttings with a knife. Callus floats on the stem, which contributes to the rapid formation of roots.

The first germination option is standard:

In any container with a volume of 1 liter (bottle, glass jar) pour a little melt water, a layer of 5-6 cm.
The cuttings are placed in a container.
The upper cut of the shoots is covered with garden pitch.

The jar is placed on the windowsill, covered with a transparent bag on top to obtain a "greenhouse" effect. For disinfection, a couple of activated charcoal tablets are added to the water.

Temperature indicators: + 25ºC ... + 30ºC - near the roots, + 10ºC - in the upper part, near the kidneys. Such a difference is necessary so that the seedlings first release roots, and only then the buds open. Thanks to kilchevanie, the risk of death of the cuttings is reduced, the chance of rapid rooting is increased.

In addition to heat, grapes need enough light. The best place is near the window, it is only necessary to put a screen (cardboard, fabric) to protect it from cool air currents.

The second way: germination in sawdust. For this:

Pour a layer of sawdust into the container (5-6 cm).
Gently spill sawdust with warm water.
Shoots are placed in a container and another layer of sawdust is added.
From time to time, the layer is moistened, waiting for the roots to appear.

Only high-quality sawdust, previously steamed with boiling water, is suitable for germination.

Planting grape cuttings in cups or pots

In the conditions of the middle lane and the northern regions, after germination, the grapes are planted in prepared cups or pots with soil.

Suitable for containers:

cardboard glasses;
cut plastic bottles (1-1.5 liters).

Be sure to pierce holes in the bottom to release excess moisture. For drainage use broken brick, expanded clay, calcined small pebbles.

The soil is prepared in advance by mixing soddy fertile soil and river sand (1: 1). Ready-made soil mixtures from the store are suitable, in which calcined river sand and perlite are added for looseness. When to plant? Approximately in March, 2-2.5 months before landing in a permanent place.

Place the seedling in a pot, sprinkle with soil and slightly moisten. It is advisable to determine one cutting in each container, so the grapes will be free. Chubuki with two eyes are planted, completely burying the kidneys in the nutrient mixture (the top one should only slightly “peep out” above the ground). In seedlings with three eyes, one kidney should be in the ground, the second near the very surface of the soil, the third - above the ground.

Plants planted in glasses or pots without leaves are covered with a plastic bag on top. If there are leaves, they do without covering with a bag.

Caring for planted cuttings

Follow-up care for grape bushes is normal:

watering;
loosening;
maintaining the optimum temperature;
correct lighting.

Stagnation of water in containers is excluded, but the soil should not dry out. Irrigate the soil regularly, controlling moisture. In city apartments, with the heating turned on, the air is dry, which negatively affects the growth of cuttings. In order to ensure a comfortable microclimate, banks of water are placed near the grapes. Watered with warm settled water, slightly above room temperature.

If the plants were covered with a plastic bag from above, then remove it gradually, accustoming the plants to open air. In the first weeks, seedlings do not need too much light, but after unfolding the leaves, additional lighting is arranged.

fluorescent lamp;
LED lights.

Temperature regime: + 25ºC ... + 27ºC, but even if the indicators are slightly less, it's okay.

Approximately 30-40 days after planting the germinated seedlings, the grapes are fed. Suitable complex mineral fertilizer (azofoska, nitrophoska), composition for Novofert grapes.

Approximately 18-20 days before the proposed transplant into the ground, the plants are hardened. To do this, the grapes are taken out to the balcony, terrace, veranda. First, the residence time is limited to 20-40 minutes, then the seedlings are left in pots for a day. When warm days come, the plants are left overnight, and then, at the end of May or the beginning of June, they are planted in the ground.

Diseases and methods of their treatment

Getting healthy grape seedlings is possible only with proper and complete care. It is important to use healthy bushes that are not affected by fungal infections for cutting.

In order to avoid diseases, cuttings are treated before laying for winter storage, as well as before planting in pots. Of the drugs fit:

fundazol;
rovral.

Some gardeners treat cut cuttings with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Treatment with preparations will protect the planting material from dangerous microorganisms, avoid the occurrence of foci of the disease during storage.

For the same purpose, during germination, activated carbon and wood ash are added to the water with cuttings. If in a sawdust substrate, then once a week it is useful to spray them with Rovral's solution.

When growing grapes from cuttings, watch the leaves. If the leaf blades begin to change color, turn yellow, this is a signal of the possible appearance of a dangerous mildew infection. The Bordeaux mixture is quickly prepared and the cuttings are processed. Instead of Bordeaux liquid, you can use the drug Ridomil Gold.

With waterlogging of the soil or lack of moisture, the leaves turn black. The same thing happens in situations where the soil for seedlings is not properly selected (too dense structure). Exit: immediately change the soil in pots, adjust the watering regimen for plants.

Planting cuttings in a greenhouse, greenhouses or open ground

Not every gardener can grow grape cuttings at home. the green "garden" is transferred to the greenhouse. In the south, cuttings are planted immediately in the ground.

Planting in pots in a greenhouse or greenhouse

The main work begins at the end of February. Activities are the same as when growing cuttings in an apartment:

inspection of cuttings;
disinfection;
if necessary, cutting a long vine;
germination.

The procedure for germinating roots in water is sometimes replaced by planting cuttings in a greenhouse in wet sand. At the same time, the air temperature should be at least + 12ºC, and even better if higher. These indicators are optimally possible for root formation. Therefore, if the greenhouse fails to provide right conditions, cuttings are grown at home.

With the proper regimen, after about 19-21 days, the beginnings of roots appear, the kidneys swell. When the roots grow by 2-3 cm, the seedlings are transplanted from the sand into special pots with soddy soil.

In the greenhouse, the temperature is maintained not lower than +24ºC ... +25ºC, humidity is controlled. When several shoots grow on the handle, the strongest is left, the rest are plucked. As soon as it reaches a height of 50-60 cm, pinch it. Such cuttings take root better in a permanent place and grow well.

end of May or beginning of June. Previously, the grapes are prepared for new conditions, leaving the greenhouse doors and windows open.

Landing in the ground

For grape cuttings, a well-lit place, closed from the winds, is chosen on the site. Small holes are prepared in advance, humus.

How to plant seedlings without stress for plants? The cuttings are carefully removed from pots or cups, together with an earthen clod, they are placed in holes. Fill up with soil, humus, lightly irrigate and slightly compact the earth around. At the same time, a stake is placed nearby to support the plant.

The specifics of growing grapes by cuttings in different regions

The process of growing planting material varies greatly depending on climatic conditions region. If in the southernmost regions they rarely associate with growing seedlings at home, then in the north it cannot be otherwise.

Southern regions (Kuban, Krasnodar Territory)

In these regions, rich harvests of delicious grapes are obtained. They practice growing grapes from cuttings, while plants are planted immediately in open ground. Popular ways:

autumn landing "long vine";
landing in the spring in the wells ("ramrod").

On the fertile chernozems of the Kuban, cuttings quickly take root, grow and subsequently delight winegrowers with excellent harvests.

Moscow region

How ? The best way- use of heated greenhouses or at home.

The climate of the Moscow region is unpredictable, often in winter severe colds are replaced by thaws. Varieties of early vegetation periods, with high rates of resistance to frost, are recommended.

Only germinated cuttings of grapes are planted in pots, they provide complete care. Plants are determined in open ground no earlier than June 10-15, when the threat of dangerous return frosts has passed.

Belarus

Many varieties of grapes grow successfully on the territory of Belarus. The culture is grown from cuttings most often at home, sometimes in greenhouses. The climate in most of the territory is mild, winters are usually warm. But in summer there may not be enough warm days, so it is recommended to choose varieties with early dates maturation. They start at the end of February, they are planted in a permanent place in the ground at the end of May.

Ural, Northwest

The main schemes and activities for germinating and planting cuttings in these harsh regions are similar to those practiced in the Moscow region. The difference in terms, after all, the winters here are long, frosty, stable warm temperatures installed no earlier than the beginning of June. Therefore, after growing cuttings at home, the plants are placed in greenhouses or greenhouses in pots for the whole summer.

With good rapid growth and development of seedlings, around the middle of summer, they are carefully transferred into large containers (for example, five-liter cut plastic bottles, old buckets). Until September, seedlings grow in them, and then the plants that have grown over the summer are transplanted into the ground.

Before the onset of cold weather, the grapes are carefully spudded, securely covered for the winter.

Any gardener dreams of having a well-groomed vineyard. At the moment, grapes have many varieties that are suitable for growing in various areas. Grapes can grow both in areas with a short summer period and in warm areas. To select the right one for a certain climatic zone, it is necessary to propagate this berry by cuttings. Such work is quite responsible, but in the end the gardener will get the result that is needed.

Advantages of growing from cuttings

A cutting is a part of a stem with several buds. For breeding at home, lignified twigs are taken from a mature vine. Their other name is cuttings or chubuki.

Any gardener, even a beginner, can grow grapes from cuttings. This method has many advantages:

the possibility of obtaining a large number seedlings;
seedlings are easy to transport, mail and store;
ease of processing from pests and diseases;
low cost seedlings.

Lignified cuttings are planted in open ground (in autumn or spring), but at the end of winter or spring they make home rooting.

Growing grapes from cuttings at home provides a good opportunity to get full-fledged seedlings in regions where sheltered viticulture is widely used (Urals, Siberia, Moscow region).

Advantages of growing from cuttings at home:

the process of development and acceleration is controlled;
absence of negative weather factors;
occupies a small space;
a good run in time, which will allow you to build planting bushes in the current season.

Procurement of planting material

For germination in the winter-spring period, cuttings are selected from a mature (brown, crackling when bent, lignified) annual vine. Their harvesting takes place under vine bushes (approximate time - October, before the onset of the first frost). In uncovered areas, chibouks for reproduction are pruned at the end of November and in winter - from the vine, without any symptoms of drying or freezing.

Propagation material is best obtained from the most healthy and productive bushes that have typical varietal characteristics. These are bushes with even branches, without defects and spots. For cuttings, the middle part of the shoots is selected, which have sprouted from the central buds of two-year-old branches.

The normal thickness of the cuttings is considered to be from 0.5 to 1 centimeter (for a variety with a thin vine, this norm may be less). Greasing and thick stems have loose wood, so they are not suitable for propagation.

Dimensions and cutting cuttings

The length of the handle is measured not in centimeters, but in the number of eyes (buds) located on it.

Two-eye and three-eye are most commonly used, although one-eye and four-eye are also suitable. When cutting branches, stepchildren, antennae and the remains of foliage are cut off. It happens that long vines (50-100-170 cm) are stored in winter, and cutting is carried out before rooting itself.

The upper cut is made straight, the height above the upper kidney is 2-4 centimeters. The lower cut is made oblique under the lower kidney, while the indentation should be small. Beginning gardeners at first cannot determine where the upper part is and where the lower one is. It is by the method of cutting that you can deal with this issue.

Chubuks are tied into bundles and tied in two places. Tags with the name of the variety are attached to the bundles. After that, the bundles should be stored for several months. Before that, they are processed.

Preparing cuttings for storage

Chubuki is necessary:

soak in water for 12 hours, while laying horizontally so that the water completely covers them with a small layer;
disinfect: dip for 15 seconds in a solution of copper sulfate (400 grams per 10 liters of water) or iron sulfate (300 grams per 10 liters of water). After treatment with iron sulphate, the vine will turn black - this is a normal reaction;
dry for several hours on cloth or paper;
wax sections (tips). Dip in paraffin, which is melted in a water bath and slightly cooled (the method is not used by all gardeners);
before storing, wrap in cling film or a plastic bag.

If all these steps are followed, the cuttings will be well preserved.

Watch the video! Harvesting and storage of cuttings of grapes

Saving cuttings until planting

For storage, the ideal conditions are:

air humidity - from 80 to 95%;
temperature - from 1 to 4 degrees (but not higher than +8).

Planting material should be stored in a refrigerator or basement, as well as on the street - in a trench or in a snowdrift.

Storage locations for cuttings:

Processing before rooting

Before rooting, it is necessary to check the condition of the materials for planting: good - prepare for germination, bad - throw away. If traces of mold appear on the seedlings, then they must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Safety check:

The bark is examined: healthy - without blackening and wrinkles;
A transverse incision is made on the stem. All wood and cambium under the bark should have a light green tint. A brown, white or black shade is an indicator of death;
When pressing on the cut, a little moisture should be released. If there is no or a lot of it, then the rooting process will be low.

Soak

After checking for, the pipes are placed in a container of water for a period of 12 hours to 2 days. It is necessary to soak both overdried and normal shank. The room temperature is approximately +20 degrees. Water is changed every 12 hours. There are times when honey is added to the water (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

pruning

The long vine is cut into chibouks with 2-3 buds. If pruning was done in the fall, then the lower sections are updated before rooting. They are made under the lowest nodes - on a wedge or obliquely. The work is carried out with a sharp knife to avoid squeezing the tissues. Cut branches are immediately placed in a container with water at the bottom.

Furrowing

The best place for the formation of roots is the place where the callus flows onto the wound surfaces. This phenomenon can be triggered manually. The lower part of the cuttings is scratched with a knife, making several longitudinal grooves. It is necessary to go deeper to wood or cambium. The length of the scratches is approximately 3-6 centimeters.

Simulator Processing

The lower part of the cuttings is soaked in one of the liquid root formation stimulators (solution of Zircon, Heteroauxin, Potassium Humate - according to the instructions) or processed with Kornevin.

After processing, the chibouks must be put into the water by 3 - 4 centimeters until the time for planting approaches.

After two weeks, the upper bud will begin to bloom, and the seedling will absorb water, so it needs to be topped up.

Rooting seedlings

After 10 days, as the first bud has blossomed, the first roots will appear. With the development of the root system, the pipes are planted in a container with a special substrate. A special drainage is laid at the bottom of the container, and then a grape substrate. The seedling is filled up to the top so that the upper bud remains on the surface. After rooting, the seedling is watered and placed on the sunny side for productive growth. For survival, some gardeners feed young grapes. Grapes are grown from cuttings only with the rooting process.

Watch the video! How to root a grape cutting

Kilchevanie grapes

Kilchevanie is the process of creating a temperature difference in the lower and upper parts of the shank: below - warm, above - cool. Kilchevanie increases the chance of rooting.

When sprouting, there is a problem of sprouting buds before the growth of roots. There are times when greenery appears on a seedling and, without having time to take root, it is depleted and dies. It is kilchevanie that can solve this problem. At home, in practice, it is carried out in the following ways:

Containers with cuttings are placed on a battery or in a special kilchevator, for bottom heating (temperature from +20 to +27 degrees). The temperature in the upper part should be from +5 to +10 degrees. To create such conditions, the kilchevator must be placed in a cool room. In the absence of a kilchevator, the containers are kept on the battery, while a protective curtain-screen is constructed between the warm air of the room and the cool window;
High productivity gives kilchevanie "upside down". Moistened material is placed at the top, which is covered with a heated lid. This method does not allow the kidney to bloom before the root system.

Planting seedlings in school

Shkolka is a pre-prepared piece of soil where grapes are planted with seedlings. This should be an area well lit by the sun. School boarding is carried out as follows:

In spring, the soil is dug up to a depth of 40 centimeters;
On the square meter one bucket of humus is introduced, two - sand and a scoop of wood ash;
The soil is dug up again;
They make small mounds in which the seedlings will be planted, having previously waxed the buds.

School care

During the period of germination of the seedling at home, the soil of the school must be kept loose, without weeds. After rain or each watering, the soil is fluffed up. With each watering, you can use organic fertilizers. In August, chasing is done for better maturation of the vine. In autumn, when 1-2 mature shoots appear, the chubuk will be ready for transplanting to a permanent place.

Growing grape seedlings in spring

It is easier to grow grapes from seedlings in spring, but not everyone will be able to do this due to weather conditions. When growing, a special technique is observed:

Cut stiff and healthy shoots. They should be even and have swelling buds. Ready cuts are infused in water;
The shoots are cut and distributed into chibouks with 2-3 buds. The lower sections are made oblique;
Each chubuk is planted in a jar or cup. Cultivation must be carried out in a warm, dark place until the seedling begins to develop its root system and take root;
Such cultivation of seedlings takes place all summer, and in the fall they are sent for conservation;
The following spring, landing is made in a temporary place, and in the fall - in a permanent one.

Conclusion

Grapes are a berry with a special taste that can be grown using cuttings. Compliance with all the rules and recommendations will allow any gardener to achieve the desired result. This method of planting grapes will result in a healthy plant with high yields. Everyone knows that when buying seedlings, you can get defective and unsuitable for a particular area. Therefore, growing by cuttings allows you to avoid such problems, and grow the variety that is needed. The instructional video in our article will show you how to grow grapes the right way.

Watch the video! Growing seedlings from cuttings

High-quality varietal grapes are a great value for a summer resident. But how to grow it if finances do not allow you to buy such seedlings? They will come to the rescue simple ways propagation of grapes - seeds, layering and chubukami. The first option is not very reliable, since genetic characteristics are lost during sowing. It remains only to master the propagation of grapes by layering and chibouks, since both methods fully preserve the properties of the mother vine.

When and how grapes are propagated with chibouks

Gardeners traditionally perform such agrotechnical work as propagation of grapes by cuttings in spring or autumn. The cut branch must have at least 4 buds - this is necessary for the good rooting of the future vine. Parts of the vine that are free from whiskers and leaves are suitable for germination. The bottom of the shoot is cut at an angle and placed in a solution of vitriol for disinfection.

In autumn, stiff petioles have time to cut before the first frost, so that the planting material contains a sufficient amount of nutrients. If there are few branches, they are stored in the refrigerator. If there is a lot, they clean it in the cellar. As an option, the workpiece can be dug into the ground.

Store chubouks in bundles in plastic bags or plastic bottles cut in half. On the packaging, be sure to make a note about the variety. The label will help to avoid confusion when propagation of grapes by cuttings at home will be carried out using different types creepers.

During the period of storage of planting material, it is ventilated daily and watered 1-2 times in 48 hours. If the branches are in the refrigerator or basement, it is important to monitor temperature regime premises. In warm conditions, the buds are formed ahead of time, and this significantly spoils the quality of future seedlings.

Regardless of whether grapes are propagated by cuttings in spring or autumn, the blanks must be removed from storage and the edges cut with a knife. After squeezing, the twig should release a light “tear”. The secretion of cloudy juice indicates the unsuitability of the chubuk - it has rotted. If there is not a drop of moisture, then the petiole is dry. It is also necessary to inspect the cut for stains. A healthy, normally preserved cutting should not have them.

Sorted specimens are soaked for two days in warm filtered water. On the third day, the blanks are placed in a solution designed to stimulate root formation. Then the prepared chibouks need to be seated. To do this, use large plastic glasses filled with nutrient soil and sand. The mixture is moistened and a seedling is inserted into each container. From above it is covered with an empty glass, imitating the semblance of a greenhouse.

Planting grapes with cuttings in autumn in open ground is performed after the appearance of tender leaves. The work is being done in stages:

On the plantation, holes are dug and fertilizers are laid in them.
Two petioles are placed in one hole (when they take root, it will be possible to evaluate their quality and leave the strongest shoot; 2 seedlings are allowed to be left if there is a distance between them of at least 20 cm).
At the bottom of the well, a hole is made with a crowbar and a cutting is inserted so that the kidney is directed towards the row.
The recess is covered with loose soil and the area is rammed.

Propagation of grapes in summer with green cuttings

Consider how to propagate grapes by cuttings in late May - early June using green shoots. The material is harvested in the evening, simply breaking it off by hand. The branches are placed in a container with water, irrigated and covered with a damp cloth. In this form, they should stand until the morning in the basement.

In the morning, the branches are cut into cuttings, ignoring the top. Usually the cuts on the upper parts of the vine rot, so cuttings will be useless. The shoot is divided into segments so that each has 2 leaves and 2 eyes. A stump is still left above the upper kidney (up to 1.5 cm), and the lower cut is performed under the last knot. Half of the top sheet is cut off, the bottom leaflet is cut off completely.

Each copy of the planting material is placed a third of the length in a solution of Heteroauxin (half a tablet must be diluted in 1 liter of water). The optimum water temperature is 18 - 22 degrees. Exposure time - 8 - 10 hours in diffused light.

The blanks are planted in a deep box with even edges, filled in layers with a mixture of fertile soil with sand (10 cm) and washed coarse sand (up to 5 cm). The contents are plentifully watered and seedlings are placed according to the 10 x 10 scheme with a recess of 2–3 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene or whitewashed glass.

It needs high humidity to be successful. This condition is ensured by spraying seedlings from a spray bottle 4-5 times a day with warm water. When the rudiments of the root system appear, the frequency of irrigation is reduced up to 3 times.

The petioles are hardened after 3-4 weeks. First, the box is opened in the evenings for 10-15 minutes. Then the time is gradually increased so that the young stand in open form all day. Rooted material is grown in greenhouses or open ground. By autumn, it acquires developed roots and has a growth of 40 - 50 cm. The grown material is dug up and stored in the basement until spring. With the onset of warm days, the grapes are propagated by green cuttings in the chosen place.

Features of propagation of grapes by layering

Some farmers value grape propagation by layering more than cuttings. This work is simple, and it can easily be mastered by a novice grower. The essence of the event is the rooting of the shoot without separation from the mother plant. Experienced summer residents recommend using this method in areas free from phylloxera.

Let us describe in detail how grapes propagate by layering:

One adult liana is capable of producing no more than two high-quality layers. If for some reason the described work was not completed in spring or autumn, grapes can be grown by layering at home as early as the first week of July.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings at home is probably the most popular way to propagate grapes. Its popularity is due to its apparent simplicity.

In other words, many summer residents use it, following the rule: "I will plant, you see, something will work out." Yes, and why not try if the material for cuttings is at hand, and even when pruning grapes, it still needs to be put somewhere. But not everything is so simple.

Proper harvesting of cuttings is half, if not more, of success in an undertaking.

Conventionally, the harvesting of cuttings can be divided into 3 important processes:

cutting cuttings;
storage of planting material;
preparation for rooting.

Cutting cuttings

Cutting cuttings is best done in the fall, after falling from vine all leaves, but before frost. The second half of November and the beginning of December are considered the optimal dates - during this period the vine is already ready for winter dormancy, therefore the nutrients in the cut cuttings are better stored, and low temperatures they tolerate better.

It is better to use fruit branches for harvesting chibouks - in this case, the chances of a successful final result will be much higher. For cuttings, you need to take straight (or at least relatively straight) sections of the vine. The cuttings should be long enough: the recommendations are reduced to a length of chibouk of 50-70 cm, but experienced growers recommend cutting chibouks 120-140 cm long.

Chubuku is best harvested from the middle of the fruiting vine. At least 3-4 live buds and 6-8 internodes should be preserved on each shank. Do not bother harvesting too thick or too thick cuttings - both of them root poorly. Chubuks from 0.75 to 1 cm thick are considered optimal.

In addition to the timing of harvesting, the length and thickness of the cuttings, the correct choice of the mother bush is of great importance. Bushes affected by diseases or pests, with damaged or deformed vines, are not suitable for harvesting grape cuttings.

Storage of cuttings

Before laying the cut cuttings for storage, they should be disinfected for half an hour in a 5% solution of copper sulphate or potassium permanganate. Then the cuttings are tied into small bundles - 8-10 pieces each. If the cuttings are cut from different varieties, then the name of the variety is attached to each such bundle. Then each bundle is wrapped with a damp cloth, then with plastic wrap and sent for winter storage.

For a small number of cuttings perfect place storage will become a refrigerator (but not freezer). If you plan to plant a large vineyard, then it is better to store the harvested cuttings in the cellar, digging them into wet sand, but you need to constantly monitor the moisture content of the sand, periodically moistening it. Some gardeners prefer to store cuttings by digging them into the ground for the winter.

When stored in a refrigerator and cellar, it is necessary to periodically check their condition and, if necessary, adjust the humidity or lower the temperature of their storage. Otherwise, the buds on the cuttings may dry out or develop in advance, and in both cases, all the work on harvesting and storing the chibouks will go down the drain.

Spring preparation for rooting

Depending on the weather, at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring, harvested cuttings wake up from hibernation. First, the cuttings taken out are checked “for freshness”: both edges of the cutting are cut with secateurs by 1-3 cm.

If the wood in the place of a fresh cut turns out to be light green, and a drop of water appears on it, then the stalk is well preserved, and it can be planted for rooting.

If the cut remains a light brown color, and no signs of moisture are visible, then the stalk is most likely dead. You can try to make a second cut, stepping back from the edge of 5-8 cm, but its result is rarely encouraging. If even without a new incision, water appears at the end of the cutting, and black blotches are visible on the surface of the fresh cut, then the cutting is rotten.

Safely endured storage cuttings are first soaked in warm water for 2 days, periodically, 1-2 times a day, changing it. It is best to use melt water for soaking, you can take water from a well. Tap water is not suitable for soaking, since chlorine-containing products are used to purify it.

For greater efficiency, you can add a little honey or aloe juice to the water at the rate of: a tablespoon per bucket of water. After soaking, the roots are placed for another 12-18 hours in special stimulants that promote the rapid formation of roots, for example, root.

To make the action of root-stimulating drugs more effective, at the lower end of the cutting (the one that will be directly located in the stimulator), 3-4 shallow cuts of 1.5-2 cm in length are made with a sharp knife.

Germination of grape cuttings for beginners

This process can be done in several ways. The easiest to perform are sprouting in cups and bottles. You can also use plastic bags, buckets, wooden boxes, but the germination technology is similar in general terms.

Sprouting in cups

Three small holes are made in the bottom of a large plastic cup using an awl or the tip of a knife. 2-2.5 cm of a mixture of leaf humus and soddy soil are poured onto the perforated bottom.

The mixture is prepared in a ratio of 1:1. Then they take a smaller plastic glass, cut off the bottom of it and place it in the center of a large glass. The space between the walls of the glasses is filled with earth, it is compacted and watered, after which the space inside the smaller glass is washed with river sand. The whole structure is again watered with water, and then the smaller glass is removed.

In the center of the sand, a 4-5 cm hole is made with a wooden stick and the lower end of the grape cutting is inserted into it, and again watered. A plastic bottle with a cut bottom is put on top of the planted stalk. The sand must be kept moist until 4-5 leaves appear on the handle. After that, the bottle can be removed from the handle.

Sprouting at home in a plastic bottle

In the bottom of a two-liter plastic bottle make several holes, and the neck is completely cut off. A small drainage layer is poured at the bottom, and 5-6 cm of soil mixture is poured on top. The lower edge of the handle is stuck into this mixture.

You need to do this jewelry: the upper eye on the handle should be flush with the cut of the bottle. The space remaining in the bottle is covered with steamed sawdust and a plastic cup is put on top of the bottle. When the top shoot develops so much that it can hardly fit in a plastic cup, it is removed.

In both cases, a pallet is used for irrigation: pour water into it and put a container with a planted chubuk on it for 15-20 minutes. The secret to successful germination is to ensure that the part of the cutting to be rooted is warmer and more comfortable than the part where the buds will develop.

It is really easy to propagate grapes by cuttings if you know exactly what and how to do it. But at the same time, it requires attention and care at every stage.

For this, it is better to germinate a design plant with planted cuttings on the windowsill, but it is imperative that the upper eye “looks” in the opposite direction from the window. Usually the germination procedure takes about 3 weeks.

Planting cuttings in open ground

The final step in growing grapes from cuttings is planting rooted cuttings in open ground. Landing is carried out in the second half of May, when the threat of strong night frosts has passed.

First, a planting hole is dug for each cutting. At its bottom, a hole with a diameter of 10-12 cm is made in the ground with a wooden stake or iron crowbar. The root system of the cutting is installed in this hole, covered with earth, compacted and watered abundantly, spending about 20 liters of water on one hole.

When the water is completely absorbed, earth is poured into the planting hole just below the level of the developed upper eye. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that this eye should be in the planting hole 5-7 cm below the soil level. At the same time at the bottom landing pit a wooden or metal stake is driven in, which will serve as a support for a developing grape bush.

Reproduction by green cuttings

Propagation of grapes by green cuttings is best done in mid-June. For propagation, 2 or 3-eye cuttings are cut. They are harvested from stepchildren or young shoots. At the bottom, the stalk is cut 4-5 cm below the node, at the top - 1.5-2 cm above the eye.

The cut cuttings are placed in a bowl with water (rain or well, but not tap). While the cuttings are soaking, several holes are made in the bottom of a 5 liter plastic bottle, and its top is completely cut off.

For planting, a mixture of leafy compost and soddy soil is prepared, mixed in equal proportions. To make the mixture more loose and “airy”, it is better to take the earth for the mixture from molehills if possible.

The prepared jar is filled with soil mixture. The mixture is poured abundantly and carefully compacted, for which the bottle is gently shaken several times and tapped with its bottom on a hard surface.

Important point: at the top of the can must first be strengthened wooden frame, deepening several rails into the bottle and fixing them. Then the green stalk is prepared for planting. At the two-eyed cutting, the lower leaflet is removed, and the upper one is left. In the three-eyed one, the lower leaf is also removed, and half of the middle and upper leaves are cut off to reduce the area of moisture evaporation.

3-4 cuttings are planted in one bottle, deepening them into the soil by 5-6 cm. After that, a plastic bag is put on a pre-installed frame and tightly fixed on top of the bottle. The constructed structure with planted cuttings is placed on the windowsill of the south window, and remains for ladies until rooting.

If everything is done correctly, then in the first 10-12 days no additional action is required. Then you need regular - once a week - watering and airing. Rooting lasts 5-6 weeks, after which the rooted green cuttings are planted in open ground using the same technology as the stiff ones, and by October they have time to grow up to 40 cm in length.

It is really easy to propagate grapes by cuttings if you know exactly what and how to do in each process of their rooting. But at the same time, you need to understand that any mistake at any of the stages can cause failure. Therefore, it is necessary to approach each stage responsibly and never hope “at random”.

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