Growing already blooming tulips. Tulips, planting and care in the open field

The bloom of tulips heralds the triumph of spring. If the site is decorated with tulips year after year, planting and caring in the open field is the key to this success. Perennial bulbous plants native to Asia have long been the subject of admiration both in their homeland and in the Old World, where they got in the middle of the 16th century.

Thanks to the general love for these flowers, a hundred years later, Holland began to be called the country of tulips, and today tens of thousands of varieties of these spectacular, but quite affordable plants are distributed around the world.

Dates of planting tulips in the ground

Tulips of cultivars bloom in spring or in the first half of summer. Therefore, the optimal planting time is autumn. In 3-4 weeks, the bulbs acclimatize and form root system but do not form the aerial part. This allows the tulips to winter well, and with the arrival of warmth, give strong foliage and open large corollas.

When determining the date of planting tulips, it is important not to be mistaken! If the bulbs enter the soil too early, they can produce foliage. And the coming winter will take the plants by surprise. The aboveground part will freeze, the underground part will weaken and will not be able to guarantee spring flowering. Late planting threatens that tulips will not have time to take root, severe frosts will kill or spoil them.

How to choose the best time? When to plant tulips in the ground in different regions?

Experienced flower growers advise to pay attention not to the calendar, but to the weather outside the window. The best start for plants is to plant in soil that has cooled to 10–12 ° C.

In the middle lane, such conditions develop by mid-September. To the south, tulips are planted later, to the north, the dates are shifted to the end of August.

If, for some reason, tulips did not hit the flower beds in the fall, you can plant them in the spring. Unfortunately, in this case, the plants have less time to prepare for flowering and accumulate nutrients for the next year. To get the desired result and to simplify the care of tulips in the open field, it is better to germinate the bulbs in filled with a loose nutritious substrate before planting. Before planting, the bulbs are cooled for 24 hours in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

Tulips are transferred to flower beds when it gets warmer and the soil warms up to +15 ° C. This method can be used in all regions, including areas where tulips outdoors do not survive the winter.

Planting tulips for outdoor cultivation

To bloom brightly, garden tulips require:

  • sun or transparent partial shade;
  • nutritious, necessarily loose soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction;
  • wind protection;
  • moderate.

A site suitable for growing tulips is dug up on a full bayonet, loosened, breaking clods, weeds are selected and nitrogen and, for example, humus and wood ash are introduced. Dense, heavy soil is mixed with sand, peat.

Under tulips, as well as under other bulbous crops, you should not add fresh organic matter, which is often a source of bacterial rot and fungal diseases.

The depth of the open field furrows depends on the size of the bulbs. Therefore, they are pre-sorted, at the same time separating sick and damaged specimens. And healthy ones are immersed in a dense pink solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour and thoroughly dried.

Under adult large bulbs, furrows are made with a depth of 20 to 30 cm, pouring a 10-centimeter drainage cushion of coarse sand on the bottom. The children are planted, slightly pressing, into the holes with the same drainage, but half as small, that is, to a depth of 7-10 cm. When the soil is leveled, the site.

Caring for tulips after planting in open ground

Tulips will only react to constant and competent care with massive disclosure. bright colors... Bulbous crops, as a rule, are unpretentious, but still require attention from the appearance of the first leaves until late autumn. Caring for tulips after planting includes:

  • watering, especially plentiful during a set of buds, mass flowering and within 2 weeks after its completion;
  • removal of weeds around plantings;
  • careful not to damage the root system and bulbs, loosening;
  • triple feeding of flowers.

After watering, the soil under the plants should be moist at a depth of 30–40 cm, that is, at least 10–40 liters of water should be consumed per square meter, depending on the type of soil.

Fertilizers in liquid or granular form are part of post-planting tulip care. They are brought in three times:

  1. In the phase of the appearance of the first shoots, using a mixture of 2 parts, 2 parts of phosphorus salts, 1 part of potassium compounds;
  2. By the time the green buds appear, feeding the plants with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1: 2: 2;
  3. After flowering, using potassium-phosphorus formulations, completely abandoning nitrogen.

Talking about caring for tulips, we must not forget about a simple but useful procedure. When the flowers wither, they are cut out along with the peduncles. This will prevent the bulbs from wasting energy that is precious for the growth of the bulbs.

If boxes with seeds are formed and ripen on the stems, there is no need to wait for large bulbs, and the children will not be able to gain significant mass.

Before growing tulips, you need to know that a culture can be in one place for no more than 4 years. Then the risk of accumulation of dangerous bacteria, fungi and soil pests increases, the bulbs naturally age and require replanting. The bulbs remaining in the soil gradually go deeper, so the next year it is more difficult for the sprouts to break through to the surface. As a result, the flowers become smaller, the peduncles become weaker and shorter.

Dig when the leaves completely wither and fall off. It is useful to shed the freed area with a solution of phytosporin, potassium permanganate or any available fungicide. Plants that remain in the soil for the winter are mulched with peat, sawdust or covered with spruce branches to avoid freezing.

Video about the correct planting of tulips

Today I will tell you, dear reader, about some of my favorite flowers - tulips, growing and caring for them on my land. In the past, only very rich people could afford to have these beautiful flowers, but now, in this regard, the situation is completely different, and they can be found in almost every garden plot.

Tulips can be grown both for simple flowering in the garden beds, and for cutting and getting chic fragrant and extremely beautiful bouquets, and for obtaining bulbs. So, first I will talk about how to choose a site for their further growth.

Choosing a site for growing tulips

Growing tulips in the open field should be started by choosing a soil that is suitable for its composition and density. Tulips should be planted on light soils that are fairly well fertilized, but it is better to exclude heavy and sandy soil for planting them altogether. The area should be well lit and free of drafts. In shaded areas, the bulbs shrink very quickly.

Water stagnation should not occur on the ridges, otherwise the bulbs in the open field will simply rot and undergo fungal diseases, which will prevent their further full development.

Soil preparation

If the soil is predominantly clayey, then you can add river sand to it, and on too light soil you need to add peat, turf, or humus. It should be said that siderates, which are usually plowed into the soil, have a good effect on the direct development of tulip bulbs, and compost also gives good results.

After the introduction of cow dung or humus, the soil should be plowed deeply, which will give more developed and larger bulbs, this should be done several months before they are directly planted in the ground. In addition to organics, mineral fertilizers are also used, for example, NPK, ammonium sulfate, potassium chloride and superphosphate.

In early spring nitrogen fertilizers are also applied during the budding period, such feeding will increase the mass of the bulbs. Phosphorite flour or bone meal is applied a year before planting, this will help to increase the yield.

Planting tulips

Tulips are planted in the beds in the fall, so that the bulbs can have time to root before the onset of the first frosty days, the temperature of + 6 degrees is best tolerated, which allows the plant to acclimatize.

Before planting them in open ground, it is recommended to outline a plan where tulip varieties will grow in groups, the most should be planted first early varieties, and then later.

The ridges are made up to 15 centimeters high, their surface is leveled with a rake, after which transverse grooves are applied at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, a little sand can be poured on their bottom, and pre-prepared bulbs can be laid out on it and covered with earth. A peg with a label can be placed on top to later distinguish tulip varieties.

Tulips hibernate quite well without any shelter, but in more northern territories it is recommended to cover them with dry foliage or spruce branches.

Tulip care

After the onset of spring days, when the sun melts the snow, small seedlings soon appear on the tulips. These are quite frost-resistant plants, and they tolerate light morning frosts well, without any negative consequences for yourself.

When the weather settles, the plant begins to grow rapidly. During this period, tulips should be loosened in time, weeded, fertilized, and, of course, watered.

Moreover, loosening should be carried out systematically, throughout the entire vegetative period. Watering should be done in deep furrows. The first feeding occurs when the plant reaches a height of five centimeters, in this case, mineral fertilizers are simply poured between the rows, and with subsequent loosening, they are carefully embedded in the ground.

The second feeding is recommended during the budding period, and the third - during flowering. If tulips grow outdoors not for cutting, but for bulbs, in this case the flowers are removed, while preserving the stem.

It is worth noting that plants intended for cutting usually do not form large bulbs. It is recommended to plant tulips together with some others. ornamental plants, for example, with phloxes, lilies or irises.

Digging and storing bulbs

After the tulips are completely dry, namely the leaves and stems, you can start digging them up. For this purpose, you can use a shovel or pitchfork, or smaller tools such as a small shovel. Each variety is recommended to be packed in a special spacious box or baskets.

The dug out bulbs should be placed in a shady, ventilated place. Strong fluctuations in temperature can lead to their cracking, or to rotting, followed by mildew.

If they were dug out of excessively humid places, in this case, the bulbs must dry for a longer period of time, they require better ventilation.

After they are finally dried, excess scales and roots are removed from them. At the same time, diseased specimens are also discarded. To sort them, you can use special sieves or sieves. At the beginning of storage, the temperature should correspond to 15-18 degrees, after which it is gradually reduced to 13. You can sprinkle tulip bulbs with a mixture of powdered sulfur, as well as fight rodents.

Conclusion

Tulips are very beautiful not only in a flower bed, but also look great when cut, decorating the interior of any room.

It is difficult to find a dacha where tulips do not bloom in spring. As soon as the bright sun warms up and the snow begins to melt, the sharp arrows of tulips begin to stretch upward. After a month and a half, their flowering fascinates with its proud beauty.

Growing tulips at home is not difficult at all, if you adhere to some completely simple rules... Tulips, like many bulbs, can be grown both in a flower bed and in a greenhouse. Let's consider both options.

Growing tulips outdoors

To grow outdoors beautiful tulips, it is very important to create favorable conditions for them not only in spring, during flowering, but also in summer, when the bulb ripens, and in autumn, when it is planted in the ground. If the tulip cultivation technology is violated, at least at one of these stages, quality flowering may not be obtained.

Planting tulips in the ground

In mid-September, the bulbs are planted in the ground. Tulips are allocated a sunny area, protected from cold winds. The best soil for them is considered to be sandy loam, slightly acidic or neutral soil. Do not plant tulips in places where groundwater is close. Stagnant water leads to disease and decay of the bulbs.

To plant the bulbs in the flower bed, make rows 18-20 cm deep. The distance between the planted bulbs is 30 cm. Superphosphate is poured at the bottom of the rows. The onions are laid out with their bottom down, lightly pressed into the soil and sprinkled with earth on top. If the winters in your area are frosty, planting tulips is mulched on top with peat or humus.

Conditions for growing tulips in spring

As soon as the snow begins to melt, and the sharp tips of tulip leaves begin to hatch, to strengthen their "health" they make the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers right on the snow.

Loosening the soil around the tulips is carried out very carefully so as not to damage either the bulb or the roots.

Active work is also underway underground: the mother bulb grows, daughter bulbs are formed, grandchild bulbs are laid. For all these changes, the plant needs a lot of energy, which can be provided by nutrients and moisture.

In order to obtain well-formed bulbs for further flower cultivation, the plants continue to be watered for two weeks after flowering.

Withered flowers must be removed, since the forming seed pod can provoke the disintegration of the mother bulb into small daughter ones.

In June, as soon as the leaves turn yellow, the tulip bulbs are removed from the ground and laid out in the shade. Particles of soil are removed from dried onions and placed in cardboard boxes or paper bags. They must be signed, indicating the grade and date. At the end of September, tulip bulbs are planted in a flower garden.

Technology for growing tulips in a greenhouse

Scientists have studied the formation and development of a tulip and the effect of temperature on this process. All this knowledge made it possible to create a technology for growing tulips by a certain date.

The flower in the bulb begins to develop when the temperature fluctuates between 2 and 25 degrees Celsius. Leaves are laid at 17 degrees. If the temperature is not higher than 13 degrees Celsius, the flower will form too slowly and grow too frail. For forcing tulips, the optimum temperature is from 1 to 20 degrees Celsius.

To get tulips in bloom by early March, the bulbs are planted in the greenhouse in early December. In containers with prepared soil, and the requirements for it are the same as for tulips planted in open ground, the bulbs are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Planting depth is about 15 cm.

After planting, the soil is thoroughly watered. For rooting, boxes with bulbs must be kept at a temperature of 9 degrees for 4-5 months. It depends on the type of tulip and the date by which you want to receive the flowers. While the bulbs are cooling, they should be watered twice a week. Bring them into the greenhouse when the leaves reach 5 cm in length. Three weeks before the required date, the temperature in the greenhouse must be raised to 18 degrees.

Conditions for growing tulips in a greenhouse

For tulips to grow normally in the greenhouse, a high humidity level must be maintained. To do this, sprinkle the floor and walls with water 2-3 times a week.

Growing tulips from seeds

During flowering, tulips are pollinated. As a result of pollination, a triangular capsule appears in which the seeds ripen. After the petals fall off, the peduncle is tied up so that it does not break, and the seeds can ripen. When the capsule bursts, the ripe seeds are collected and stored in a dark, dry place.

In September, seeds are sown in soil consisting of humus, river sand and garden soil. They are sown densely and covered with a layer of 2-3 cm. Seeds can be planted in open ground or in a container. If the temperature drops below 5 degrees of frost, the planting must be insulated.

In the first year, seedlings grow from the seeds, similar to a seedling onion - with one tubular leaf.

In the second year, a real wide leaf grows out of it. In the third year, a bulb is formed, which can already give a peduncle. It is better to remove the flower so as not to weaken the bulb. Only in the fourth year they receive a quality planting material.

Growing tulips at home

If you do not have a summer cottage, you can grow tulips at home on a balcony or loggia.

In September, the bulbs are planted quite tightly in a container with pre-prepared soil. There must be drain holes in the container. The depth of the container must be at least 25 cm.

The composition of the soil is the same as for growing tulips in a greenhouse. Occasionally the soil is watered. In late autumn, before the onset of frost, the container with the planted bulbs is insulated by wrapping it in a blanket. In March, when severe frosts have passed, the shelter is removed, the soil is watered abundantly.

As soon as the sprouts appear, the plants are fertilized with a complex fertilizer, as when growing in open ground. Containers with tulips are placed in partial shade so that the soil does not dry out too quickly.

Very simple technology growing tulips in a container will make your balcony bright and elegant.

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Growing tulips or colorful flowerbed no hassle

Growing tulips is an exciting experience for any gardener. Due to the pretentiousness of colors and variety unusual shapes, tulips have won worldwide popularity for a long time. And, although these plants come from Central Asia, for their appearance and popularization on the European continent, one should thank the Dutch, who, with special love and passion, reacted to the selection and cultivation of new varieties of this amazing plant.

Tulips, cultivation and care in the open field

Tulip bulbs are round. The bulb is a material for propagation, as well as a concentrate of micronutrients that the plant will need at the time of awakening and further development. If you still have no idea where to start, we recommend starting with the selection of bulbs for planting.

Growing these plants outdoors is one of the most simple ways... For this, almost all varieties of tulips are suitable, the bulbs of which can be purchased at a flower shop.

    At the time of buying pay attention to the following:
  • the bulb, large or small, should be dense, without visible damage, heavy, in a smooth sheath without overgrown roots and stems;
  • it is better not to purchase bulbs disproportionate in shape, too light, covered with mold and wrinkled. As well as with obvious damage, without scales. These bulbs are more likely to rot;
  • different varieties of tulips differ in the shape and color of the bulbs. Be carefull! If you buy at least five varieties of tulips and the bulbs look exactly the same in appearance, this should alert you.

in the photo - good tulip bulbs

in the photo - bad tulip bulbs

The choice of a planting site is a determining factor for the growth and development of a young plant. Tulips prefer places well lit by the sun from all sides, with neutral or slightly acidic, loose soil. At the same time, tulips, the cultivation and care of which does not imply any special features, still prefer the soil well filled with organic fertilizers.

Therefore, before planting the bulbs, we add a mixture to the soil: rotted manure - 5 kg, peat - 2 kg, slaked lime - 200 g, nitrophosphate - 30-40 g, per 1 m2. If the soil in your area is heavy, peaty or clayey, add some river sand (3-5 kg ​​per 1m²). Dig up the soil after fertilizing. Carry out these preparatory work in advance, 10-14 days before the expected planting of the bulbs.

We start planting tulips from September, and in warm climates - from the beginning of October. It is necessary to take into account all the points of order. Before planting the bulbs in the soil, we will carry out a final revision, rejecting all suspicious patients, and with visible damage. 30 minutes before planting, you can immerse the bulbs in 0.2%, which will disinfect and fill them with moisture.

in the photo - tulips grown on summer cottage

Before the onset of winter frosts, mulch the ridges with sawdust, peat with a layer of 5-7 cm and additionally cover with a layer of spruce branches if your choice fell on early flowering varieties of tulips. In early spring, after the snow has melted, remove the shelter, but the mulch will serve you for some time, suppressing the growth of weeds and retaining moisture. Feed the young plant roots with the prepared mineral mixture. Re-fertilize already when laying the first buds, but already in liquid form. Also, do not forget about watering, which should be done at least once every 10-12 days, at the rate of 6-8 liters per 1m².

Ripening of daughter bulbs and their storage

In order to get high-quality seed material in the future, it is necessary to take into account the subtleties of how to grow tulips. Daughter bulbs are formed at the time of flowering tulips. During this period, you need to feed the plants with liquid fertilizer. The best way such a top dressing is a mullein diluted with water to the color of a weak tea brew in an amount of 10 liters, to which 15 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt should be added. The consumption of such fertilizer is 10 liters per 1m².

in the photo - tulips on personal plot

During the period of dying off of the aerial part of the flower, the bulb finally ripens. Typically, the ripening process takes two to three weeks. In order for the bulb to be the largest, it is recommended to cut the flower, while leaving a few leaves. An indicator that the onion is ripe is its covering with fresh scales, which, depending on chemical composition soils become light or dark brown. In the bulb itself, the rudiments of leaves, a flower and, small bulbs - children are formed.

in the photo - division of the tulip bulb

In order for the quality of the bulbs to be always high, and to grow tulips only a pleasure, they need to be dug out annually. Dry the bulbs thoroughly and, only after that, after 7-10 days, when the bulbs are dry, they need to be divided, cleaned of old scales and remnants of stems, sorted, and then sent for storage.

Storage of tulip bulbs takes place in plastic or cardboard containers. They must be laid in one, maximum, two layers, leaving the opportunity for good air circulation.
It is important to remember that the process of forming a new flower bud does not end there, and therefore it is advisable to store tulip bulbs at a temperature of + 25 ... + 30 degrees Celsius for a month. Only after that, the storage temperature should be lowered to + 15 ... + 17 degrees.

How to grow tulips? Things to Remember

  1. The choice of planting material. The bulbs must be firm, heavy, free from damage and mold.
  2. The place for growing tulips should be well lit by the sun, and the soil should be neutral, light, fertile.
  3. A few weeks before planting tulips, the area chosen for planting must be fertilized and dug up.
  4. Planting with tulips for the winter must be mulched and covered with spruce branches.
  5. In the spring, after the snow melts, you need to apply dry mineral fertilizers, leaving the mulch. Then fertilizers are applied one or two more times, but only in liquid form.
  6. Ripening of the bulbs occurs during the flowering period. It is during this period that the plants need to be fed.
  7. To prevent the bulbs from losing quality, they must be dug up and dried annually before being sent for storage.
  8. Tulip bulbs are stored in containers in one or two layers, with good air circulation.

Tsar Peter the First ordered to import the bulbs of this flower into Russia to decorate gardens. A special office, established to supply the Russian land with overseas flowers, became known as the "garden office". Varieties, cultivation in open ground, planting, care, reproduction: tulips in Russian gardens from Peter the Great to the present.

The system of dividing species tulips into groups, depending on the timing of flowering, was adopted in 1981. There are four groups in total. flowering plants: early flowering; medium flowering; late blooming; species and hybrid varieties... In turn, groups are usually divided into classes, of which there are 15.


Early double tulips

Simple and terry early varieties make up the first group. These tulips are the first to bloom, the color of the petals is distinguished by a variety of shades. Terry species in full dissolution are similar to lotus flowers. Flowering begins in the first week of May. Tulips of this group are undersized: only 25-30 cm high, they are excellent for forcing.


Tulips of the Triumph series

Darwin hybrids and varieties of the Triumph series, belong to the mid-flowering species - these are the most persistent classic tulips, which are very common among gardeners. They have a wide range of colors, beautiful large flowers, strong stems. The petals do not lose their richness of color under the influence of intense sun. These qualities allow tulips of these classes to be used for cutting. The height of plants of the "Triumph" class reaches 70 cm. "Darwin's hybrids" reach a height of 90 cm, both are suitable for cutting. Reproduction of tulips is absolutely straightforward. In July, the mother's bulb becomes overgrown with a mass of children that have different diameters. After 1 year of growing, large tulip babies can bloom.


Late tulips

Exotic tulip varieties included in the late flowering group.

  • Simple late - tulips of this group by outward appearance resemble flowers belonging to the "Triumph" class, only bloom much later, and the color of the petals is incomparably richer. Peduncles are high, the glass of the flower is large. The base of the glass is square. Flowers keep their shape well in bright sun.
  • Lily-colored - the name of this group of tulips speaks of the similarity of the shape of the flower with the lily. There are cultivars with two-color and multi-color colors. Flowers of lily-colored tulips amaze with grace of forms. Plant height from 35 to 70cm. Low varieties are suitable for forcing.

Tulip lily
  • Fringed - luxurious large glasses of flowers of this group are decorated with small fringes along the edge of the petal. Fringe can be of the same tone as the flower, or have a different - contrasting - color. In any case, fringed tulips have unique decorative qualities. Modern collections of fringed tulips are highly decorative, unique and exclusive varieties.

Fringed tulips
  • Green-flowered tulips are plants with flowers that have spots, strokes and shading of green. Unusual and bright flowers with strong peduncles, suitable for cutting.

Green-flowered tulips
  • Rembrandt - tulips are so named for the amazing, complex color of the petals, reminiscent of the artist's brush strokes. Plant height ranges from 40 to 70 cm.

Tulips Rembrandt
  • Parrots - The flowers of tulips in this class are similar to bright, disheveled parrots. The edges of the petals are wavy, the petals themselves are folded, corrugated. Quite high peduncles (up to 80 cm), very strong. Parrot tulips are suitable for cutting.

Parrot tulip
  • Low bushes of double late tulips do not rise to a height of more than 50 cm, they are striking in the spectacular flowering. The bright, double-colored flowers, although they have strong peduncles, cannot support the weight of the blossoming flower, especially if there is abundant dew in the morning or it has rained.

Late double tulips

Hybrid tulips. These types of tulips are extraordinarily beautiful. They are characterized by variegated color of leaves: contrasting spots, venation. Flowers of amazing beauty are distinguished by a fairly large size, with a low peduncle. Growing these tulips outdoors is possible during harsh winters; hybrids are frost-resistant.


Hybrid tulips

Wild tulips. This class includes wild tulip species that are used in decorative floriculture. These undersized crops, which are very disease resistant, can be used for open field planting to form green areas. The flowering of wild species lasts a short time, but the richness of colors of small tulips and their natural resistance make it possible to equip flower beds of extraordinary beauty, rabatki, stone hills on which these plants are planted. The combination of wild tulips on an emerald lawn creates a very interesting options v landscape design.


Wild tulip

Planting a plant

Planting tulips is most favorable when the soil temperature on the site is + 7-10 ° C. The soil cools down to such values ​​in autumn, usually at the beginning of October, but in the southern regions it is possible to plant tulips in late dates- until the end of November.

At high temperature the soil does not form roots for a long time, there is a high risk of plant disease with fusarium. Planting bulbs at the first frost also poses certain dangers - the bulbs do not have time to take root before the onset of severe frosts.


Plant tulips in the fall

The beds for planting bulbs are set aside in the brightest, sunniest place. Care should be taken in advance to protect the landings from the wind. The soil for culture requires loose and rich in humus. Heavy clay soils, as well as poor sandy soils, require improvement. There should be no stagnant water in the garden. High level groundwater on the tulip planting site is detrimental to bulbs. Good drainage is required.

Advice: Acidic soils not suitable for planting culture. Tulips prefer soils with a pH of 7.0-7.5.

The site for planting tulip bulbs must be carefully dug up, all weeds must be removed. It is advisable to process perennial weeds special drugs for destruction.

It is useful to start planting tulips by examining the bulbs. Rotten or mummified bulbs must be removed. Healthy planting material is soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate ( pink color) for 30 minutes. Immediately after soaking, the bulbs are planted in prepared furrows. The planting depth of tulip bulbs is determined by their height multiplied by 3. The distance between the bulbs is 10 cm. The planting furrows are laid at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.
The furrows are preliminarily irrigated with water, growth stimulants, a layer of dry fertilizer for bulbous flower crops is scattered, and the furrows are sprinkled with a thin layer of sand. Bulbs are laid on top of the sand: you cannot press them into the ground.


The distance between the bulbs can be small - about 10 cm

Attention! Growing tulips on light sandy soils requires more deep embedment bulbs.

In November-December, with the onset of frost, it is useful to mulch the top layer of the beds with a layer of peat (3-5 cm). Peat is not harvested in spring.

Correct care

After the germination of the bulbs, caring for the tulip plantings begins with a careful examination and rejection of rotten specimens. Then you need to gently loosen the bed, and the culture responds well to loosening. Caring for young plants is reduced to regular watering, but not abundant, but moderate, however upper layer the soil in the plant bed should never dry out.


Tulip sprouts

Providing regular and necessary feeding for growing tulips, daily careful maintenance, regular watering will help to grow healthy, vibrant flowers. And the most important thing to remember: after 4 years, tulip beds should be broken up in a different place.

Fertilizing and feeding tulips

Growing tulips requires fertilization immediately after germination. Sprouted bulbs during this period are in dire need of nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilization stimulates the vigorous and rapid growth of the flower.


Tulips require careful mineral feeding

During budding, it is required to feed the flowers with phosphorus and potash fertilizers, which will help the tulips to set large buds and provide decorative flowering. Complete mineral fertilizer used for dissolving flowers in the spring.

Plant propagation

Reproduction of tulips is not difficult, since in the summer, when digging out the bulbs, a lot of babies are dug out along with the replacement bulb. The baby is used for reproduction of the culture very simply: during the planting of the main bulbs, the baby dug up in the summer is also planted. In one year of growing, a large bulb is formed, ready to bloom. This is how often the reproduction of "Darwin's Hybrids" occurs.


Tulip bulbs

There is another type of culture reproduction - seed. But seed propagation of tulips is usually used when breeding new varieties.

Diseases and pests

Tulips are damaged by a huge number of pests and diseases: today there are more than 30 infections affecting tulips.

Growing tulips largely depends on the choice of planting material. Bulbs should be free from mechanical damage, ulceration, black soot spots and dry crusts.

The greatest harm to tulip plantings is caused by gray rot, fusarium, sclerocial rot. The most dangerous viral infection of a culture is variegation.


Tulip disease - gray rot

Gray rot of tulips (Botrytis tulipae) develops on plants in cold and damp weather, especially when planted in open ground with heavy soil, which has not been loosened. The disease progresses rapidly: fungal spores spread to all parts of the plant. Growth slows down, buds become smaller, stems and leaves bend and soften. The main thing is to notice diseased plants or planting material at the time and isolate from uninfected tulips. In the spring, it is necessary to inspect seedlings to destroy diseased plants.

Preventive measures against gray rot are dusting the bulbs with sulfur, etching the bulbs with a solution of TMTD. The green mass is sprayed with a Bordeaux mixture of 1% or euporene 0.5-1%.

It is easy to prevent the development of the disease - a sufficient amount of potassium fertilizers should be applied to the soil, and magnesium from microelements.


Root rot of tulips

Root rot, causative agent - mushrooms Ruthium. Brown spots appear on the roots of tulips, which gradually spread to the entire root system. Properly prepared soil reduces the risk of plant diseases.

In addition, the following lesions threaten tulips: soft rot (Pythium ultimum), white rot (Scleritiniabulborum, Sclerotium tuliparium), fusarium (Fusarium oxysporum f. Sp. Tulipae), trichoderma (Trichoderma sp).

Viral diseases of tulips are represented by the most common of them - variegation. Throughout the green mass of the flower, including the petals and buds, variegated strokes appear. The virus is carried by pests with the sap of diseased plants. There is no cure. Diseased plants are destroyed.

Tulips in combination with other plants

A field of tulips is already beautiful in itself, but the combination of planting a flower with other plants in the open field adds decorativeness to the landscape design. Tulips go well with other bulbs: irises Tulips in landscape design

Tulips in landscape design

Planting tulips complements early flowering compositions in landscape design.
Low-growing tulips are widely used, including wild species that adorn rocky hills. Flowers are great for growing in flower beds, ridges, mixborders.

How to plant tulips correctly: video

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