Hyacinth at home released an arrow. Hyacinth home: planting, forcing, growing

fresh flowers on festive table will make any celebration unforgettable. But buying them in the middle of winter is expensive and impractical. It is much cheaper and more interesting to make bulbous forcing at home. With our step-by-step instructions, hyacinths for the holiday will surely please you with a long and lush flowering.

Preparing bulbs for forcing

In order for the distillation to be successful, and the hyacinths to bloom for the holiday, it is necessary to prepare them in advance. Work begins in the summer. For distillation, the strongest and healthiest plants are noted. They are dug up two weeks earlier than the rest. The bulbs are sorted, as specimens with a diameter of more than 5 cm are needed for successful winter flowering. They are dried for several days in the shade in a well-ventilated place. Then two weeks incubated at a temperature of 30 ° C and high humidity. Then the temperature is gradually reduced to 16–18 ° C.

The quality of flowering largely depends on how accurately the temperature regime is maintained. If it is not possible to create such conditions, you can buy bulbs that have already been prepared - their packaging contains the corresponding marking “For forcing”. Purchased bulbs are stored at 18 ° C until planting.

When to plant hyacinth for distillation

To plant a hyacinth for distillation on time, you need to know its variety. There are varieties of early, medium and late flowering periods. The table shows when the hyacinth should be planted so that it blooms at the right time.

Hyacinths bloom for 2-3 weeks, so do not worry that it will fade before the holiday.

How to choose the right substrate and pot for forcing hyacinth

For forcing hyacinth bulbs, a pot with a height of at least 15 cm is suitable. Its diameter is chosen depending on the number of bulbs. They should not come into contact with the edge of the pot and with each other.

Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pot - broken shards, a fine fraction of crushed stone and river sand. Then pour the substrate with the following composition:

• humus - 1 part;
• sod land - 2 parts;
• coarse sand - 0.5 parts.

The earth is slightly compacted and moistened. Bulbs should be carefully examined before planting - only healthy specimens are planted without signs of rot and damage by insects.

To prevent fungal diseases, before planting in the ground, the bulbs should be held in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 5-10 minutes.

Planting bulbs and caring for them

For planting bulbs, use step by step instructions, then the distillation of hyacinths at home will be successful.

Selected bulbs are planted so that the top reaches the top edge of the pot. It is best that the distance between planting material is at least 2 cm. The upper third of the bulbs should remain above the ground. The space between them is also covered with a substrate. It is lightly compacted and watered.

Next, the pot is covered with a paper cap and placed in a cool place with a temperature of 4–6 ° C. Under such conditions, the hyacinth hibernates for 2–3 months. Water the plant very sparingly, only when the earth is completely dry.

After the end of the dormant period, the bulb throws out the first leaves. At this time, the pot is moved to a cool windowsill. When the peduncle grows to 15 cm, the cap is removed. The most suitable temperature for long flowering is 16-18°C.

The development of a plant can be regulated by changing the conditions of its maintenance. With an increase in temperature and an increase in daylight hours, the hyacinth will bloom earlier, and to slow down the flowering time, the temperature is reduced and the pot is moved to a dark place.

Subject to all the above conditions, forcing hyacinths at home will definitely succeed, and your window sill will be decorated with lush caps of flowering plants of the most delicate colors - white, pink, lilac, burgundy, blue.

Reasons why forcing may not work

This can happen for several reasons:

1. Withered leaves - excessive watering.
2. Short peduncle - the bulb has not gone through a complete dormant period at low temperatures.
3. The peduncle has not grown - the flower bud is formed only during periods of high temperatures. Another reason is that the bulb is small and weak.
4. The leaves turn yellow - this is due to a lack of light or a draft.
5. Dropping buds is the reason for irregular watering.

Distillation of hyacinths in water

This method is simple and allows you to decorate your window sill for the holidays not only with blooming hyacinths, but also with beautiful multi-colored vases for them. Buy them at specialized stores. The vases have an extended upper part for the bulb and a narrower lower part for the roots.

In the absence of special containers, just pick up plastic bottles of a suitable shape.

We start forcing:

1. Pour cooled boiled water into containers.
2. Put the onions in the top of the container. The water should barely touch the bottom.
3. All containers with hyacinth bulbs are placed in a cool, dark place.
4. After the bulbs release a bunch of roots, move them to the windowsill and cover with paper caps.
5. When the shoots grow a few centimeters, remove the caps.
6. Flowering begins about three months after the start of forcing.

Even the most unpretentious plants have some features and impose their own requirements for planting and care. The agricultural technology used is also due to the need to create conditions that are comfortable for decorative culture. And here hyacinths manifest themselves as heat-loving beauties that require attention and do not forgive mistakes.

Traditionally, expecting abundant flowering of these bulbous plants in April or May, sometimes flower growers in the spring do not observe the desired bright arrows. Why don't hyacinths bloom in the garden? At what stage was the mistake made, and how not to make it again next season? An onion will help answer these questions and find out the reason why hyacinths do not bloom in the garden. This is the main part of the plant, on the condition of which not only flowering depends, but also the growth of hyacinth, its health and reproduction.

Year-round cultivation of hyacinths in the garden

Most often, gardeners make a serious mistake by not digging up faded bulbs in June, when the above-ground part of the plant is already almost completely dry. At home, where the summer is much hotter and longer than in central Russia, hyacinths spend the hot months resting and building up strength for the next season. It is in summer that a growth bud appears inside the bulb, containing the rudiment of a flower arrow.

If the bulb left in the ground remained in cool, moist soil until autumn, then by winter it not only does not have time to prepare well, but can also be affected by soil pests, pathogenic fungi and bacteria. So, in the spring, at best, a weak peduncle will appear. Sometimes, after a cold rainy summer, flowering is not observed at all.

When growing hyacinths in the garden is accompanied by digging them up in early summer and competent storage until the end of September or October, the risk of not seeing lush fragrant inflorescences is greatly reduced.

The quality of hyacinth bulbs grown in the garden

In addition, without digging up the bulbs for the summer, it is impossible to control the quality of the planting material. But hyacinths can:

• not getting enough nutrients
• experience a lack or excess of moisture;
• be attacked by pests and pathogens of bulbous diseases.

Aging bulbs also gradually lose their ability to bloom. These features must be taken into account when buying bulbs for growing hyacinths in the garden, and when growing your own planting material.

If during the inspection of hyacinths in the store or during storage, soft, mechanically damaged or dried bulbs are detected, they should not fall into the ground. Otherwise, in search of a reason why hyacinths did not bloom, the gardener should only blame himself, as in a situation where bulbs are planted with traces of mold, yellow-brown or gray spots - signs of serious diseases.

Why hyacinths did not bloom: storage errors

To avoid a situation where hyacinths do not bloom in spring, bulbs dug in June:

• washed;
• pickled up to 30 minutes in an insecticide solution;
• dry for a week in a dark, ventilated place at 20 ºC;
• store at 24–26 ºC for 60 days;
• the last month before planting is kept at 17 ºC, making sure that planting material did not dry out;
• a week before planting in the ground, they are placed in a temperature close to street temperature in order to harden future plants.

Only healthy processed planting material is stored, which is laid out in one layer either in boxes or in paper bags.

Mistakes when planting hyacinths and growing them in the garden

Hyacinths are planted in the soil in September or early October, having previously treated the bulbs with a fungicide.

• An earlier planting will lead not only to the rooting of the bulb, but also to the growth of the green part, which is fraught with the death of the plant from frost or freezing of the flower bud, and then spring flowering will not have to wait.
• Late planting of hyacinths is also a risk of freezing and one of the reasons why hyacinths do not bloom in the garden in spring.

Since the growing season for hyacinths begins very early, any manipulation of the bulbs in the spring is perceived by plants as extremely painful. Therefore, spring is the time when replanting hyacinths, as well as planting bulbs in the ground, is highly undesirable. The soreness of acclimatization can be so strong that the plant refuses to bloom, and already visible arrows die off.

Sometimes the reason why hyacinths did not bloom lies in the wrong selection of a site for these spectacular plants, as well as insufficient care for a beautifully flowering crop:

• Hyacinths prefer neutral, well-structured and aerated soil. If the soil is excessively acidic or dense, it is not necessary to wait for friendly flowering without additional preparation of the site.
• The absence of color during the set period is also dangerous for the bulbous culture, which can throw off the buds.
• Bulbs weakened by pests and diseases can not give inflorescences when hyacinths are transplanted to the place of closely related species.
• Thin integumentary scales can be damaged by fresh organics used in top dressing and when planting bulbs.
• Poor flowering of hyacinths awaits the gardener if the plants were planted too often or too deep.
• If the hyacinth falls into dense soil or into an area where there are a lot of weeds, the plant may not have enough strength at all to break through.

Sometimes the flower arrow, which has already appeared above ground level, dies. The reasons why the hyacinth did not bloom in this case are as follows:

• the soil is oversaturated with moisture;
• the bulb was planted too early;
• planting material fell into the already frozen ground.

In the conditions of the middle lane, hyacinth grows well in open ground and annually pleases with rich flowering, but only on the condition that everything is created for it the necessary conditions, and when leaving, the gardener does not make annoying mistakes.

Planting hyacinths - video

Eastern hyacinth (Hyacinthus Orientalis L.) is a perennial bulbous plant that grows in nature in the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia. There it grows on rocky soil on the slopes of the mountains. The leaves are grooved, bright green, collected in the form of a rosette. Its small blue flowers, collected 5-6 in inflorescences, open in early spring and fill all around with their fragrance.

The grace of hyacinth flowers and especially their magical smell contributed to the fact that since the 15th century they have been grown in the gardens of the Middle East. From the 16th century, hyacinths appeared in Europe, bulbs from Asia Minor were brought to Northern Italy, to the then famous Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico) of the city of Padua. But Holland occupied a special place in the cultivation of hyacinths and in the creation of their varieties. Until now, it remains the main producer and supplier of bulbs of this plant to all countries of the world. Since then, it has been widely distributed in culture. According to some researchers, it has up to 30 species, others consider it monotypic, i.e. with one kind, but which has a large number of varieties and forms.

Hyacinth symbolizes sadness, since its appearance is associated with the death of Apollo's favorite - Hyacinth. The wind god Zephyr, who claimed friendship with the patron of the Muses, out of jealousy changed the arc of the flight of the disk thrown by Apollo, and directed it directly to the young man Hyacinth, the son of the king of Sparta. In memory of the beautiful Spartan, a flower grew, on the basis of the petals of which the tears of Apollo inscribed initials resembling the ancient Greek letters A and I, thereby connecting god and man.

The Greeks believed that the scent of hyacinth flowers refreshes and enlightens a weary mind. It is considered that essential oil hyacinth has an antiseptic, balsamic, sedative and astringent effect. It is also used in oriental or floral perfumes.

FEATURES OF BIOLOGY AND GROWING IN OPEN GROUND

The hyacinth bulb consists of 15-20 juicy open scales, densely located on a short stem-bottom. In the center of the bulb at the top of the bottom, 6-8 leaves, an inflorescence and a new renewal bud are formed annually. Roots are laid in the bottom, and baby bulbs in the axils of the bulbous scales.

Growing hyacinths is possible in many regions where there is no deep freezing of the soil. However, to ensure the full flowering of plants, it is necessary to know the features of their biology and carefully follow all the agrotechnical methods developed on its basis.

Site selection.

Growing hyacinths requires open sunny areas with good drainage. The best soil for them is light sandy loam with a moderately high pH. Site preparation begins two months before planting the bulbs, introducing decomposed humus (6-8 kg per m2) and carefully digging the soil to a depth of 40 cm. At the same time, calcium is added to the soil in the form of chalk or lime (100 g per m2) and superphosphate ( 50 g per m2). In the conditions of the northwestern regions of Russia, the introduction of lime into the soil accelerates the decomposition of organic matter and reduces its acidity, which is especially undesirable for hyacinth bulbs.

Bulbs are planted at a depth of 10-15 cm and at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other. When planting under the bulbs in the furrows, it is recommended to add a layer (1-2 cm) of coarse-grained washed sand to improve drainage and protect the bottom of the bulbs from decay.

On the winter period the ridges should be mulched with peat chips and covered with fallen leaves or spruce paws with a layer of up to 10-15 cm. In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the shelter is removed from the ridges, leaving a layer of mulch. Leaf regrowth, flowering (April-June). Vegetation of hyacinths begins shortly after the snow cover melts - usually in the second half of April. In the center of the leaf rosette, a dense "bump" of buds appears - an inflorescence. At the beginning of the growing season, the intensity of growth of leaves and flower arrows increases rapidly and reaches 2-2.5 cm per day. As the flower arrow grows, the buds gradually turn into the color inherent in the variety. spring

Also actively growing root system.

Hyacinths bloom from the second decade of May with some deviations in timing depending on weather conditions. Dry sunny weather with an air temperature of 7-10 ° C contributes to the longest flowering time. Under such conditions, flowering lasts 20-25 days, and at higher temperatures it is reduced to 10-14 days.

Varieties of hyacinths according to flowering time are divided into early, middle and late. However, these differences are insignificant and amount to no more than 5-7 days between early and late varieties.

In the first decade of June, the flowering of hyacinths usually ends. The leaves and the flower arrow continue to grow - their length reaches 35-40 cm. During this period, the process of accumulation of nutrients in the scales of the bulb begins to intensify. The weight of the bulb increases rapidly and reaches its maximum value by the end of the drying of the leaves.

In Holland, when growing hyacinths "on the bulb", they use the method of removing flowers from the flower arrow - "milking". Flowers are removed at the stage of colored buds to make sure the variety name is correct. The remaining green arrow continues to function as an extra leaf and contributes to more nutrient deposition in the bulb. At the same time, the weight of the bulb increases by an average of 8-10 g, maximum - by 20 g in comparison with control plants.

Plant care during the growing season consists in loosening the surface layer of the soil, cleaning the areas from weeds and mandatory watering with a lack of moisture in the soil. During the growing season, it is necessary to carry out top dressing by applying easily soluble complex fertilizers (50 g per m2).

Particular attention should be paid to the application of K-containing fertilizers, which contribute to the accumulation of starch in the bulbs. Along with this, top dressing stimulates the formation of the next year's renewal bud and baby bulbs in the axils of the bulbous scales that are laid during this period.

The end of the growing season (June-July). In late June - early July, the growth of leaves and flower arrows noticeably weakens. Nutrients continue to be deposited in the scales of the bulbs: the thickness of the scales increases by 2–2.5 times. By mid-July, the leaves begin to turn yellow. At the level of the neck of the bulb, at the base of the leaves and the flower arrow, a separating layer is formed.

The cell membranes of this layer are gradually destroyed. As a result, the leaves and flower arrow wither and are easily separated from the bulb. Later, adventitious roots and the lower part of the bottom of the bulb gradually die off. The devastated outer scales of the bulb also dry out. The plant is freed from the old organs that have fulfilled their role. Vegetation of hyacinths is completed. All dead plant parts should be collected and burned as they may be carriers of pests and diseases.

After the end of the growing season, hyacinth bulbs must be dug up. Digging in the conditions of the northwestern regions of the country is usually carried out on July 18-22, even if the leaves are not completely dry. Digging up bulbs in more late dates can lead to a delay in the formation of inflorescence in the bulb, which will adversely affect flowering next year.

The formation of organs in the bulb after the end of the growing season. Bulb storage period (August-September). After the end of the growing season, the plant retains only the bulb. She does not undergo any external changes. However, during this period, the most important organ-forming processes take place inside the bulb. By the end of July, all or almost all the leaves have already been formed in the bulb in the bud of the next year. The kidney reaches 2-2.5 cm in height. After the laying of the last leaf, the growth cone proceeds to the formation of the inflorescence. For its successful development, a temperature of +23 ... + 25 ° C is required for 1.5-2 months. At a lower temperature - +14 ... +16 ° С - the process of inflorescence formation slows down, and with a further decrease - it is disturbed. As a result, weak inflorescences appear with few and often underdeveloped flowers in the spring of the following year. In this regard, digging up hyacinth bulbs and storing them at the optimum temperature is a must.

During the formation of the inflorescence, a new bud is laid at its base - the bud of the second next year. During the autumn months, the first 2-3 leaf buds appear in the new bud. Roots form at the bottom of the bulb.

After digging, the bulbs are dried for 2-3 days, then soil residues and roots are removed from them. It is necessary to pay attention to the bottom of the bulbs - it should be dense and intact. After cleaning, the bulbs are placed in a well-ventilated store at 23-25 ​​°C.

Bulbs are stored until mid-September, after which the temperature is reduced to 17 ° C and stored under these conditions until planting in the ground.
Planting of hyacinth bulbs is carried out in late September - early October after the completion of the formation of the inflorescence in the bulb. The bulbs have time to take root before frost, which determines their successful overwintering.

Hyacinths are more thermophilic than, for example, tulips. The southern border of the range (natural distribution area) of species tulips is adjacent to the northern border of the growth of hyacinths. In the Krasnodar Territory, in the North Caucasus, in the southern part of the Chernozem zone, where the climate is much warmer, they receive nice results when growing hyacinths in the ground. The same applies to Holland, which is located at the latitude of Ukraine. The climate there is moderately warm, the soil practically does not freeze in winter. Bulbs obtained from the south, even smaller ones, produce plants with good inflorescences and produce more children.

REPRODUCTION

The main method of propagation of hyacinths is vegetative - baby bulbs. Seed propagation is used to grow hybrid seedlings in order to obtain new varieties. Baby bulbs are formed from the kidneys in the axils of the bulbous scales. Their development in the bulb usually lasts two years. In the second or third year, the first inflorescence is laid in them. The number of formed baby bulbs depends on the variety and averages 2-3 babies. Often, baby bulbs are formed during storage outside the bulb, around its bottom. Before planting the bulbs, the children are carefully separated from the bottom and, after a short drying, they are planted in boxes with earth and brought into a room with a temperature of 8-10 ° C. The next year in the fall they are stored in a greenhouse or planted in the ground. Similar bulbs bloom in the fourth or fifth year.

Hyacinths can be propagated by bulbous scales. For this purpose, the most juicy young scales are used. In July-August, they are carefully cut off at the base. The cut points are slightly dried and planted in boxes with sand. After 3-4 months, baby bulbs begin to form at the cut points from the callus, 2-5 on each. The first flowering of baby bulbs is observed in the fourth or fifth year.
To obtain mass material, methods have been developed for the industrial propagation of hyacinths by cutting and cutting out the bottom of the bulb.
These techniques are called "dissection" of the bulbs.

Preparation makes it possible to obtain from 10 to 50 baby bulbs from one mother bulb. However, the use of these techniques requires special rooms with a certain temperature and humidity regime and careful observance of preventive measures against rotting of the bulbs.

Done cutting.

This operation is carried out at the end of the dormant period of the bulbs. To successfully cut the bottom, minimally damaging the bulb, you should pick up a tool. It is best to use a teaspoon with a sharp edge for this, with which the bottom is cut out. The rest of the bulb is left untouched, and then it is checked whether all the scaly leaves have had their bases removed. This can be done with a knife, but it is easy to damage the center of the bulb with it. To reduce the likelihood of diseases, the surface of cuts of scaly leaves is treated with a fungicide. The bulbs are placed in boxes in an inverted position with the cut up. They can also be stored on wire mesh or a dry sand tray. To cause the formation of callus at the base of the scales and delay the possible spread of diseases, the bulbs are kept at a temperature not lower than +21°C. After about two to three months, young onions form on the cuts of the scales. On one bulb, 20-40 children can form. The mother bulb in the same inverted position is planted in a pot so that the children are slightly covered with the substrate. Plants are hardened and then kept in a cold greenhouse. In the spring, the bulbs will begin to grow and form leaves, and the old bulb will gradually collapse. At the end of the growing season, young bulbs are dug up, divided and seated for growing. Young plants can bloom in 3-4 years.

Bottom cutting.

Hyacinths can be propagated faster if you use a method similar to the previous one. The only difference is that instead of cutting the bottom on the bottom of the bulb, only a few cuts up to 0.6 cm deep are made. 2 notches. In this case, the number of bulbs formed decreases, but they are larger. Hyacinth bulbs are pre-disinfected in the same way as when cutting the bottom. The incised bulbs are placed for a day in a dry, warm place (+ 21 ° C): under these conditions, the incisions open better. When the incisions open, they are treated with a fungicide.

The subsequent operations and storage conditions of the bulbs are the same as in the previous method. As a result, onions are formed in the amount of 8-15 pieces, which will take 2-3 years to grow. Cutting and notching the bottom is used not only for the propagation of hyacinths. These methods are also used in the cultivation of daffodils, snowdrops, muscari, blueberries, white flowers.

Under the conditions of a short, cool summer and high humidity, the most acceptable method of reproduction is natural.

FORCATION
Hyacinths are able to bloom in winter when creating a certain temperature regime for bulbs.

Distillation of hyacinths can be carried out at home. For the flowering of hyacinths by February-March, their bulbs, after being dug out of the ground, are stored at +25 C until the beginning of September. Then, during the month - until the beginning of October - at +17 ° С. In the period of October 1-5, the bulbs are planted in pots using any permeable substrate. Plant the bulb so that its top is visible above the ground. After planting, pots with bulbs are shed and placed at + 8 ... 9 ° C until mid-December for successful rooting. During the entire time it is necessary to ensure that the substrate is kept moderately moist.

After December 15, the storage temperature is reduced to +3...+4°C. With the appearance of sprouts 5-6 cm high, the pots with bulbs are transferred to a bright and warm room at +20 ... + 23 C. During the first three to four days, the sprouts are covered with paper caps to accelerate the growth of leaves and flower arrows. Hyacinths bloom 12-15 days after the bulbs are transferred to a warm room.

At +3...+4 °C, pots with rooted bulbs can be stored for a long time and, if necessary, exposed to light in a warm room for flowering.

Forcing hyacinth bulbs in a special dish is a relatively recent achievement. Fill a glass flask with an extended neck boiled water with a little charcoal. The distance between the lower end of the bulb and the water surface is 2-4 cm. Cover the bulb with an opaque cap and put the flask for 8-10 weeks in a dark, cool (10°C) place. Water is added periodically. As soon as the sprout begins to straighten, remove the cap and gradually accustom the plant to a bright and warm place. Bulbs after forcing, then planted in the ground, usually bloom earlier, bloom well and form more babies. This can be explained by the fact that forcing bulbs are kept warm for much longer before planting in the ground in autumn. For the middle zone, this means, first of all, to bring the conditions of keeping the bulbs during the dormant period closer to the conditions of their homeland, that is, to increase its duration and increase the temperature. When performing a number of techniques, the duration of the rest period can be increased from 3 to almost 5 months. This is achieved by adjusting flowering and digging to earlier dates, keeping dug bulbs at a certain temperature, late planting, shelter and warming.

Landing time.

In the conditions of central Russia, hyacinth bulbs are planted in late September - early October. If planted too early, hyacinths can start growing and die in winter, and if planted too late, they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the depth of planting. When planting hyacinths, you need to remember two things: firstly, choose not the largest bulbs for planting, which are intended for forcing, but medium-sized bulbs, the so-called "flower beds", which give flower stalks more resistant to bad weather; secondly, well-rotted compost or peat must be added to the wells during planting, if it was not added during the preliminary digging of the soil. However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from those at hand, and protected with a film from rain and snow. And after landing, lay the insulation again.

Landing.

The place for hyacinths should be well warmed up by the spring sun and protected from strong winds. Some flower growers recommend planting them next to shrubs and trees. However, the roots of trees and shrubs absorb nutrients from the soil to the detriment of hyacinths. The site is preferably flat, preferably with a slight slope, providing water runoff during spring snowmelt and during heavy rains. Prolonged flooding leads to mass diseases and the death of bulbs. ground water should lie no closer than 50-60 cm. At their high level, drainage is done or bulk ridges are arranged. Experts advise preparing a site for planting hyacinths back in August, two months before planting the bulbs, otherwise the natural sedimentation of the soil can cause the roots to break, which will begin to develop in the fall. The soil must be deeply cultivated, to a depth of 40 cm. Under digging, humus or rotted manure is introduced at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m2, sand, peat and mineral fertilizers: per 1 m2 60-80 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of magnesium sulfate. Potassium sulfate can be replaced with 200 g of wood ash, and magnesium sulfate - 250 g of dolomite flour. On sandy soils, the doses of potash and magnesium fertilizers should be increased by 1.5 times. As for nitrogen fertilizers, they are best applied in the spring-summer period in the form of dressings.

For hyacinths, landing in a "sand shirt" is suitable. At the bottom of the groove or hole, clean river sand is poured with a layer of 3-5 cm. The bulb is slightly pressed into it, then covered with sand, and then with soil. This technique will eliminate the rotting of the bottoms of the bulbs, protect against infection in the soil, and improve drainage. If the ground is dry, plantings should be watered to improve the rooting of the bulbs.

If there are a lot of hyacinths, they are planted on ridges 15-20 cm high to protect the bulbs from melt water. Planted in rows at a distance of 20-25 cm, between adjacent bulbs in a row leave at least 3 bulb diameters (for adult bulbs -12-15 cm).

With the onset of stable cold weather, it is advisable to cover the plantings. To do this, you can use mulching materials such as dry peat, humus, sawdust, as well as dry fallen leaves and spruce branches, and in the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the shelter must be carefully removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early.

Top dressing.

At the beginning of the growing season, immediately after the appearance of sprouts, the first top dressing is carried out using ammonium nitrate - 20-30 g per 1 m2. After the appearance of the buds, 20 g are applied per 1 m2 ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride, and after flowering - 40 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium chloride or potassium magnesia per 1 m2. Fertilizers are applied to the furrows between rows to a depth of 10 cm, covered with earth, and watered in dry weather. Fertilizers in liquid form are also applied to the furrows, and then watered. In addition to loosening the soil and weeding, hyacinths need watering in dry weather during budding, flowering and two weeks after flowering.

Cleaning and storage.

If the bulbs of Dutch hyacinths are left to winter in the open field, they will bloom worse in the second year. Therefore, it is better to wait until the hyacinth leaves turn yellow and dig the bulbs in early July. This allows you to inspect the bulbs, separate the babies for rearing, process the bulbs in order to prevent diseases and protect against pests, and destroy diseased specimens. The dug bulbs are washed with clean water, then dried in a ventilated place in the shade. Bulbs dug, dried and peeled from leaves and roots are stored for storage.

Storage of dug out bulbs is the most crucial period. It is at this time that the process of inflorescence formation takes place in the bulb. Its various stages require different temperatures in a certain duration and sequence. Dug hyacinths are more demanding of heat than tulips or daffodils. Immediately after digging, the bulbs are dried for 5-7 days at 20 ° C in a dark, ventilated room, cleaned of earth and root residues, then sorted by size and placed in boxes in no more than 2 layers. Small children are not separated. If there are few bulbs, it is convenient to store them in paper bags with labels.

Further storage of large flowering bulbs is recommended to be carried out in 2 stages: the first - at elevated temperatures, the second - pre-planting. At the first stage, the bulbs contain at least 2 months at 25-26°C, and at the second - 1 month at 17°C. The humidity in the room should not be too low, otherwise the bulbs will dry out. If you want to shorten the first stage by a week, then in the first week of the first stage, raise the temperature to 30 ° C (the room must be well ventilated).

The total duration of the preparatory period is not less than 95 days. Plus, before planting, it is useful to hold the bulbs in a cold room at temperatures close to the outside. So it turns out that the bulbs, in order to plant them in the ground in the first decade of October, must be dug up no later than the beginning of July. Late digging and storage of bulbs at too low a temperature are the main reasons for the further poor flowering of hyacinths.

Often during storage, the bulbs around the bottom form numerous small children. They break off easily, and therefore bulbs with children should be planted in the ground especially carefully. At the same time, the planting depth must be halved and it is imperative to cover the planted bulbs with a layer of mulch, increasing it compared to conventional shelter. Such children grow 4-5 years. It is very simple to cause their formation: immediately after digging, firmly wipe the bottom of the bulb with a dry cloth, removing the roots.

Possible difficulties:

Each hyacinth bulb usually produces one peduncle, with flowers 2-5 cm long, which do not fade for 2-3 weeks. Bulbs prepared for Christmas forcing (flowering in December - January) are planted in August - September. For flowering in March, the bulbs are planted in October. Often, flower growers buy already planted hyacinth bulbs with flower stalks in half bloom.

With further forcing of such bulbs, difficulties arise:

Leaves turn yellow.

If the leaves turn pale green with yellowness, then the reason is not proper watering and insufficient lighting. Hyacinths are watered moderately, after the topsoil has dried. If the leaves dry up, they are frostbitten, or the plant is standing in a draft. Frostbitten leaves can no longer be saved, but the plant must be placed in a warm place without drafts and cold air currents.

The buds do not open.

most common cause this is incorrect and careless watering, water getting on the buds. Reason: the plant was kept in the dark for a long time, and during the flowering period it does not have enough light. Place the plant in a bright window, or even better, additionally illuminate with artificial light for up to 10 hours.

Slow growth.

After a few weeks, the peduncle with buds looks the same as when you bought it. The usual reason is not long enough rest period. The plant is transferred to a warm, bright room only when the peduncles reach 5 cm in height, before that the plant is kept in a cool (8 - 12 degrees above zero) and dark place. Another reason may be insufficient watering.

Lack of flowers.

If you bought a planted hyacinth bulb without a peduncle, and a few weeks after the purchase, the peduncle did not appear, despite enhanced care, there may be several reasons. Perhaps the bulb is not large enough. Such a bulb will not bloom this year, it needs to be planted in the garden in the spring and grown. The plant may have been or is being kept at very high temperatures. The optimum temperature for flowering hyacinths is 18-20 degrees above zero. Flowering can be deterred by insufficient watering.

Deformed flowers.

This deficiency is most common in hyacinths. The peduncle develops curved to one side due to the high temperature during the dormant period. During the dormant period, hyacinth bulbs should be at a temperature not higher than +5 degrees. Do not keep plants in a stuffy closet or in an unheated, but sunny room. During flowering, this deficiency can no longer be corrected.

Decaying flowers.

The reason is waterlogging. In a cool room, in a container without drainage, the plant quickly becomes waterlogged. Hyacinths are watered moderately, after the topsoil has dried. The leaked excess water is poured out of the pallets, half an hour after watering.

DISEASES

Hyacinths are susceptible to bacterial and fungal diseases, especially when grown in areas with high air and soil humidity. The main condition for maintaining healthy planting material is the careful fulfillment of all agrotechnical requirements during cultivation. If diseased plants are found (growth retardation, yellowing and twisting of leaves and flower arrows, softening of the bulb), they must be urgently dug up and destroyed, and the soil disinfected. This is the only and effective method control of hyacinth diseases.

In hyacinths, the phenomenon of inflorescence loss is often encountered: the inflorescence, having barely appeared above the ground, falls out of the rosette of leaves. This phenomenon is not associated with a disease of the plant, but is explained physiological reasons- an increase in root pressure. It is caused by excess moisture in the soil, storage of the bulbs at insufficiently high temperatures, and early planting of the bulbs in the ground.

Suffering from fusarium.

Rotting flowers are a source of food for soil micro-organisms that increase possible infection. The disease occurs only on plants in the rooting room and is exacerbated by rising temperatures.

Bulb penicillosis, or storage rot.

This disease is caused by various fungi from the genus Penicillium, such as P. verrucosum. The main cause of infection is storage temperatures below 17°C combined with high relative humidity (over 70%) and damaged bulbs. The first symptoms of the disease (dry ends of the roots) appear before planting. The tissues surrounding the donets are light brown on the cut. The process of rotting occurs during storage of the bulbs and continues after they are planted. They have only a few roots, or none at all.

Peduncles remain short and break off easily.
In places of damage to the bulbs, colonies of the fungus develop (from white to greenish-blue). The underlying tissues become soft and brown.

Control measures:

Wet or soft rot.

The bacterium Erwinia carotovora infects tissue damaged by frost or over watering. The disease occurs at elevated soil temperatures and waterlogging. In greenhouses, affected bulbs with a characteristic unpleasant odor (they are soft, their tissues are vitreous of an off-white or yellowish color) do not produce seedlings. With a lesser degree of infection, weeping, dark green, oblong areas appear on the leaves that extend upward from the base of the leaf. First, hyacinths lag behind in growth, then they die.

Control measures:

The bulbs are planted in the rooting room at 9C and low relative humidity. Infected planting material during storage and plants cultivated in a greenhouse are regularly inspected and the affected specimens are discarded. This prevents the infection from spreading through the water when watering.

Physiological tip rot.

The first symptom of this disease (white flowers instead of cream) is detected immediately after the plants are brought into the room. Stamens vitreous, withered. In humid greenhouse conditions, rotting upper flowers become a breeding ground for bacteria (Erwinia sp.), fungi, mites, stimulating a secondary infection. If it is caused by the bacterium Erwinia sp., then the infected flowers are grayish-white (later brown), wet, with an unpleasant odor. Neighboring buds become glassy.

Rotting flowers affected by Penicillium sp. - green-blue from the colonies of the fungus, and the peduncle is brownish-red. The disease is aggravated if the hyacinths are exposed to refrigeration in damp conditions. Unaffected by a secondary infection, the flowers dry out. They are called "blind".

Control measures:

In the room for rooting, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature of 9 ° C, and in the greenhouse - 23-25 ​​° C, without lowering the latter by more than 1-2 ° C, since the risk of infection of flowers with the fungus Penicillium sp. due to high relative humidity. The cooling regimes necessary for various cultivars should be observed. Plants do not water over inflorescences, especially in the last stages of cultivation. The soil in pots is not waterlogged and the plantings are provided with good ventilation.

"Green Tops".

Some flowers or (in case of severe infection) all buds at the top of the inflorescence remain green. The reason for this violation is non-compliance with the temperature regime and a reduction in the cooling period.

Control measures:
Landings are kept at the recommended temperature, observing the duration of the cooling period.

"Twisted inflorescence".

The upper part of the peduncle bends after the introduction of hyacinths into the greenhouse, since one side of varieties with heavy inflorescences develops more slowly.

Control measures:
"Top Bloom".

Unlike normal development, the upper flowers in the brush bloom before the lower ones. Inflorescences are usually short. This violation occurs as a result of non-compliance with the cooling regime. Susceptibility to the disease is different for each variety.

Control measures:
The recommended cooling period must be observed.
Damaged by: thrips.

VARIETIES OF HYACINTH

Garden hyacinth is a vivid example of how numerous varieties have been obtained from one species - oriental hyacinth - by selection of evading forms (sports) and artificial intraspecific crossing. Over four centuries, about three thousand of them were created. They represent the whole gamut of colors - from white and yellow to crimson and purple, have simple and double flowers, the number of which in the inflorescence reaches several dozen.

Currently, 170 varieties are included in the International Handbook for the Registration of Hyacinth Varieties, of which about 60 are of industrial importance. It should be noted that the modern assortment of hyacinths is represented by many old varieties, whose age reaches 80 years or more. However, they have established themselves as the most promising. According to the color of flowers, all varieties are divided into six groups:

Blue, white, yellow, pink, lilac and red.
Blue
"Bismarck" blue
"Blue Giant" blue
"Blue Jacket" blue
"Blue Magic" dark blue
"Blue Star" ("Blue Star") blue
"Grand Maitre" blue
"Delft Blue" blue
"Doctor Lieber" blue
"King of the Blues" (King of the Blues) dark blue
"Codro" dark blue, terry
"Myosotis" blue
"Marie" navy blue
"Ostara" blue
"Pearl Brilliant" blue
"Sky Jacket" blue
"Atlantic" blue

White
"Arentine Arendsen"
"L" Innocence" (L" Innocence")
"Carnegie" ("Carnegie")
"White Pearl" ("White Pearl")

yellow
"Yellow Hammer" yellow
"Orange Bowen" salmon
"Sunflower" light yellow, terry
"City of Haarlem" light yellow

Pink
"Amsterdam" pink
"Anna Liza" pink
"Anna Marie" light pink
"Queen of the Pinks" ("Queen of the Pinks") pink
"Lady Derby" pale pink
"Marconi" pink
"Purple Sensation" raspberry pink
"Pink Pearl" pink
"Princess Irene" pink
"Fondant" light pink
"China Pink" pale pink
"Chestnut Flower" pale pink, terry

Lilac
"Amethyst" ("Amethyst")
"Violet Purple"
"Queen of the Violets" ("Queen of the Violets")
"Lord Balfour" ("Lord Balfour")
"Splendid Cornelia" ("Splendid Cornelia")

Red
"Woodstock"
"La Victoire" ("La Victoire")
"L" Esperance "("L" Esperance")
"Cyclope"
"Tubergen" with Scarlet "("Tubergen" s Scarlet")
"Jan Bos" ("Jan Bos")

Hyacinth is a "manageable" plant that can be made to bloom exactly when you need it. For example, for the New Year, the birthday of a loved one, Valentine's Day, etc.

To do this, you do not need to compile tables, calculate days: forcing hyacinths is a very simple job. But if the plant is provided with proper care, it pleases with its color for a long time - up to two months.

Hyacinths under the hood

Forcing hyacinths begins with the fact that the bulbs are planted in the ground. If you want to time flowering for a specific date, it is better to do this two months before it. You can define a separate “apartment” for each flower, using small pots, or you can plant a whole family together - hyacinths are quite normal for tightness. However, in any case, the depth of the container should be approximately 20–30 cm - the root system of hyacinths is quite long.

Fill the pot with soil to a height of about 10 cm. Pack the soil, water well, but not excessively. Put the onions on the surface, sprinkle them on top with soil along the “shoulders” - so that they only “peep out” a little.

Now it remains to cover the future plant with a paper cap, find a cool place in the house and keep the pot there for about a month. The temperature acceptable for forcing hyacinth is 4-6 ° C, so a suitable place for it during this period is a closed balcony, terrace, basement. If you do not have these amenities, you can simply put the pot in the refrigerator.

Distillation of hyacinths in water

Many people make forcing hyacinths even easier: pour a little water or hydrogel into the bottom of transparent glasses, put pebbles on top, and on them - an onion. As the liquid evaporates, the liquid is added, but the bulb itself should only slightly come into contact with it. And all this time the distillation device should be under a paper cap. The signal that it can be transplanted into a pot is the sprouts that have appeared.

Sending hyacinths to the sun

When the sprouts reach 1 cm, transfer the pot to the room. Try to prevent the flower from stress from a sudden change in conditions - do not put it in a too warm place (near the battery), but cover it with a paper cap from direct sunlight for a week. Plants will acclimatize and start growing. Now they can be put on a "permanent place of residence", best of all - on the windowsill. sunlight for hyacinth - a vital necessity: with its shortage, the stem and leaves of the plant are drawn out, and the flowers are small and pale.

Hyacinths should be watered sparingly. Plants do not like excess moisture: if the soil is constantly wet, the bulbs can rot.

How to regulate the flowering of hyacinths

If you did everything right, soon a flower-bearing arrow will appear among the strong leaves of the hyacinth. Many flower growers use a simple technique that allows you to get strong flower stalks. As soon as the plant puts forward an arrow, a black paper cap is put on it. For about 7 days, the peduncle under it grows and gains strength, after which the cap is removed.

At first the buds will be green, then they will acquire a light shade, and you can already see what color your hyacinth will be.

If you need to speed up flowering, the hyacinth is usually moved to a warmer place. True, if the flower is too hot, it will fade very quickly.

After flowering, the stem must be cut off, but the leaves should be left - they help form new bulbs. They are removed only after they have completely given their nutrients to the "children" and dry.

Young bulbs are dug up and stored in a dark, cool place. Unfortunately, the mother bulb can be used for flowering no earlier than in 2-3 years - it has become very depleted and should gain strength.

People want to see this flower next to them not only because of the flowering time. Hyacinth is truly beautiful. Luxurious and at the same time elegant inflorescence, bright, fresh and magically sweet smell. Can you imagine what aroma hovered over the hyacinth gardens, which were specially grown by order of the Turkish sultans? But even if one hyacinth blooms, its amazing aroma fills the whole room.

Hyacinth is a flower whose name is translated from Latin as rain flower. It has such a name due to its love for excessive moisture, there is still an assumption that it is so called because of the flowering time of this plant in nature, namely in the spring during the rainy season.

Hyacinth is native to Southeast Asia.. In most cases, this bulbous flower is grown in gardens, but it can be done at home, however, the care of the plant in this case is slightly different.

This is extraordinary beautiful plant draws attention with its colorful and bright colors similar to small bells, which are located on a fleshy peduncle in the form of a racemose inflorescence. Flowers can be either simple or double in yellow, pink, blue, purple, blue or white.

Bright green smooth and fleshy leaves, in an amount of 5 to 8 pieces, form a rosette sprouting from the bulb, from which the peduncle comes out. The flower reaches a height of 30 cm. The flowering of Hyacinth is accompanied by a delicate pleasant aroma.

There are many types of Hyacinth, among them: Ostara, Amethyst, Rosalia, Sunflower, La Victoire, Litvinova, Trans-Caspian, Arentina Arendsen.

But the most popular and widespread in home cultivation is an

Distillation at home

Hyacinth is not difficult to care for, but some rules must be followed. The first rule is the choice of bulb from which the flower will be grown. The size of the bulb in diameter is required at least 5 cm, it must be dense, not affected by rot, diseases and insects. The second rule is to create the necessary atmosphere for successful flower development.

Choosing a pot and soil for planting bulbs

The vessel for breeding Hyacinth should be of medium size and have drainage holes at the bottom. From 1 to 3 bulbs sits in one container. They should not come into contact with each other and with the walls of the pot.

A drainage layer is necessarily laid out at the bottom of the pot, for this you can use sand with a layer of about 2 cm.

The bulb is not completely placed in the soil, its upper part should not be covered. The substrate used is one that has a neutral level of acidity, since high acidity is not suitable for the flower. To avoid rotting of the bulb, the surface of the soil is also covered with sand.

After planting the bulbs, they need to create a rest period for about two months. The flowerpot is placed in a dark, cool place, perhaps even in a refrigerator, the temperature should be + 5-7 degrees. Occasionally, the soil needs to be watered to maintain constant moisture. During this time, the bulbs take root well and will give flower stalks in the future. After the bulbs release a couple of sheets, the flower is transferred to a bright place with a temperature not higher than +15 degrees.

And only with the formation of inflorescences, the flowerpot is placed in a permanent place in which the plant is completely cared for.

Care during flowering

The flowering period of Hyacinth lasts an average of about two weeks, during this period care is needed, due to which the flowering will be lush and longer.

Lighting

Hyacinth is very fond of light, he needs it at least 15 hours a day. If you place it in a place where there is not enough light, you need to additionally use artificial light sources. On hot summer days, the plant should be shaded to avoid direct sunlight.

Temperature

The best temperature for growing Hyacinth is + 20-22 degrees. It is not recommended to keep the flower close to heating appliances. Drafts should also be avoided, as they can lead to the death of the flower.

Watering and spraying

The soil in the pot should always be slightly moist, this is especially important during flowering, active growth and wintering. Stagnation of water should also be avoided, which can lead to rotting of the bulb and the development of fungal diseases. To do this, the water from the pan is poured immediately after watering. Another important point there is a method of watering: so that no matter what water gets on the bulb, in the axils of the leaves and buds, water must be poured near the edge of the pot.

Water should be soft at room temperature, it is good to use rain or melt water, preheating it.

Top dressing

The plant needs frequent feeding, about twice a month. To do this, use any universal fertilizer for indoor bulbous plants. Before feeding, it is necessary to water the flower.

Care after flowering

Hyacinth like everyone else flowering plants, fades over time. But in this case, its vital activity does not stop, but the care of the flower simply changes.

• First, the peduncle is cut off, the leaves remain, and flower care continues until they die completely. After that, it is necessary to dry the bulbs and place the plant for a dormant period. To do this, the flower is removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned from the ground, and the top of the plant is cut off at a distance of about one centimeter from the bulb.
• The bulb is sprayed with a disinfectant solution, for example Fundazol, to avoid infections and the upper unnecessary peel is removed. Then the bulb is dried, at this time it must be periodically turned to dry completely.
• When the bulb is completely dry, you need to wrap it in paper or sawdust and place in a dark, dry place for 2-3 months, after which it can be planted again.

Video about caring for Hyacinth after flowering

Very often, flower growers adjust the flowering of Hyacinth to a certain time of the year, for example, to get an inflorescence on March 8, this must be done in October. For this, manipulation is used distillation - at the same time, the bulbs are specially taken out of dormancy.

In this case, the planted bulbs are covered with a bag in which a hole is made so that the plant breathes. Further, the flower is grown, as in the usual planting of bulbs.

Video about distillation of Hyacinth by March 8

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to propagate Hyacinth. Among them: reproduction by children, reproduction by seeds, cutting the bottom and notching the bottom. At home, the first method is most often used, since the rest are very long and complex, they are used by breeders and professionals.

On average, a bulb can form 2-4 children per year. They must be carefully separated from the mother bulb and planted in a separate container. If the baby is difficult to separate, then after a dormant period, the mother bulb is planted with her and separated only after the next flowering of Hyacinth.

With this method of reproduction, the plant blooms in 2-3 years.

Pruning

Pruning of the peduncle is necessary after flowering is completed, because if fruits form after the flowers, this will draw all the forces from the flower. Also when the leaves dry, they are also cut off.

Diseases and pests

Most often, Hyacinth is resistant to all sorts of threats when grown at home, because when transplanting, the bulbs are treated with disinfectants. But sometimes hyacinth is threatened by such diseases and pests:

• bacterial rot. There are many reasons for infection with this disease and various symptoms of its manifestation, for example, the appearance of black dots on the leaves, rotting of the bulb, drying of the roots, and so on. The only way to cope with the disease is to industrial production, at home, this leads to the death of the flower. In this case, it is necessary to get rid of the plant and soil, and disinfect the pot.
• Insects. For example: aphids, ticks and others. You can get rid of them by spraying the flower with chemicals, but only before the flowering period.
• Physiological disorders. These are deformations of the peduncle, for example, curvature or improper flowering, which appear in case of non-compliance with the “forcing” mode, or rather the cooling period.

The bulb is rotten

Peduncle deformation

Conclusion

So p The problem of growing Hyacinth at home is not great, if you follow all the rules for caring for this flower, as well as provide appropriate care for it during the dormant period. In this case, Hyacinth will delight with its beautiful and fragrant flowering.