How to install a plastic window sill with your own hands. DIY PVC window sill installation: tips and tricks

Often when conducting overhaul in the room you have to change old windows. However, the installation of the window cannot be considered complete without external finishing, It is about how they are already installed at the same time), we will talk in this material.

Common installation methods

There are several solutions that allow you to find the answer to the question of how to install a window sill with your own hands:

The structure can be fixed thanks to the use of an adhesive. This is enough old way, which today is extremely rarely used by craftsmen due to the appearance of more reliable options.
One of the most simple solutions- use of self-tapping screws. The fasteners are screwed into pre-prepared holes in the windowsill. Strengthening the structure allows the use of special linings and polyurethane foam.
The next method involves the use of spring metal brackets as fasteners. The latter are screwed to the window sill profile using all the same self-tapping screws.
And, finally, the last method consists in sealing the space under the window sill with linings until the edges of the plane enter under the window frame with the achievement increased level density.

Tools and materials

How to install a plastic window sill with your own hands in the most elementary way? This may require the following tools:

building level;
screwdriver;
a gun for laying polyurethane foam;
puncher;
jigsaw;
pencil;
roulette.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you should prepare the above tools, which will definitely come in handy in the process of work. Next, you need to make the correct measurements. The aesthetic appearance of the installed window sill and its reliability directly depend on this.

When taking measurements, it is important to take into account not only the parameters of the installed canvas, but also a whole list of additional characteristics. The location of the existing radiator deserves special attention here. If the latter is installed high enough, the presence of a free space of several centimeters to the lower edge of the window sill can lead to a violation of air circulation in the room and a deterioration of the microclimate.

When taking measurements, it should be borne in mind that the length of the window sill should be greater in comparison with the space of the window opening. The width of the product can be chosen arbitrarily, depending on personal convenience and needs. A convenient option would be a window sill that protrudes from the wall at a distance not exceeding 8-10 cm.

Window sill trimming

So, we consider further how to properly install the window sill. Sometimes, during installation, trimming of the product is required so that the latter corresponds to the parameters of the window opening. The largest window sills reach a length of 3 m or more. The width of the structure can be from 25 to 70 cm.

If the window sill is too large, excess material can be cut off from the wall mount side. Particular attention should be paid here to the cutting line. It should pass without touching the stiffeners, which are located inside the window sill. Thus, the structure will not deform during operation and will reliably connect to the frame.

It is recommended to use an electric jigsaw to trim the window sill. It is allowed to use a small hacksaw for wood or plastic, depending on the material of construction. Work should be done slowly to avoid the appearance of chips and scratches on the front surface of the window sill.

When sawing products, do not forget about safety. Since chipped pieces of material can get into the eyes, it is recommended to carry out the work with the installation goggles. Gloves or work gloves should be used to protect your hands.

How to install a plastic window sill: basic steps

Installation of plastic window sills is quite simple:

First, the surfaces are thoroughly cleaned. Contamination is eliminated, garbage is removed.
Having taken advantage of it, you must determine the horizontal position of the structure, set up beacons. Usually, when installing window sills, their plane tilts downward by about 5 mm. This solution allows the formed condensation to drain off the plane.
How to install window sills on plastic windows? The structure sits on a special glue or mortar. Alternatively, it is possible to resort to fixing the plane with screws on mechanical supports.
In the next step, the free space between concrete slab and the window sill is filled with polyurethane foam. Excess protruding outward is neatly removed with a clerical knife.
Finally, special plugs are installed on the end edges. The surface of the window sill is removed from the protective film.

How to install window sills on plastic windows correctly? For this, a free distance of about 6-7 cm should remain between the heating radiator and the lower edge of the plane of the product. Only in this case, warm air will freely rise from the battery, drying the glass units and slopes.

How to install a wooden window sill?

Installation is much more difficult. Before starting work, you should pay attention to the quality of the source material. The window sill board should not contain obvious flaws in the form of chips, knots, and other defects. Moreover, a well-dried board should be used. Otherwise, the latter may crack during operation under the influence of sudden temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity levels.

How to install a window sill in this case:

The existing base is rounded off from all sides, after which tear drops are created on its back surface. The latter are small grooves 5-6 mm deep and 7-8 mm wide.
A felt lining impregnated with antiseptics is laid on the back surface of the board.
The prepared window sill is inserted into the openings in the wall. Lacrimal joints are installed on pre-prepared wooden blocks... Structural elements are fastened with nails.
The edges of the structure are reinforced with plaster mortar.

Masters who are well versed in how to install a wooden window sill recommend a fairly impressive slope into the room, which should be about 20 mm. This avoids the accumulation of condensation on the surface of the product and prevents material decay.

Installation of slopes

Upon completion of the installation of the window sill, slopes should be made. First of all, it is necessary to resort to leveling the window opening vertically and horizontally. The easiest way to cope with the task is using polyurethane foam. The latter will serve as a good protection for slopes from freezing.

Surfaces can be reinforced with mounting mesh or plasterboard. The main task is the maximum alignment of the planes, as well as the formation of a smooth texture. From above, the slopes can be covered with paint, focusing on the features of interior solutions when choosing a color.

If the edge of the window sill protrudes into the room by 10 cm or more in relation to the edge of the wall, it is recommended to strengthen the structure. For these purposes, it is worth resorting to the use of metal corners. But even with the implementation of such a solution, one should not overload the edges of the window sill during operation, since this can cause deformation of the plane.

Particular attention should be paid to the conditions for mounting the window sill on the balcony. In order for the surfaces to firmly "grab", it is desirable to maintain the air temperature in the range from +16 to +20 о С for several days.

When installing a window sill, it is recommended to apply a lot of polyurethane foam at the ends and in the middle of the product. To strengthen the structure, the use of silicone sealants and glue is allowed.

Eventually

As you can see, installing the window sill with your own hands is a completely doable task. The main thing is to carefully approach the work, not to miss the moments that can negatively affect the subsequent operation of the structure.

It is from the installation of window sills that the attractiveness of the external design of the window opening depends. Refusal to install them will not only make the room look unkempt, but also create some inconvenience. In particular, the landlord will have to regularly eliminate the drips of condensation formed on the windows. Otherwise, annual finishing and surface renovation will be required.

The role of the windowsill cannot be overemphasized. After all, this is not only a decorative element of a window and a room. The window sill participates in thermal insulation, preventing the penetration of cold air from the street. Therefore, the installation of this window element is a process that requires accuracy and strict adherence to the rules. This article is devoted to the installation of window sills.

The materials from which window sills are made today can be different. The type of sill board determines the way of its installation.

Wood, for example, oak, cherry, pine, has long been the most common material from which a window sill was made. Wooden window sills do not lose their connoisseurs to this day. The wood is pre-dried and treated with antiseptic solutions and varnish.

The main advantage of a wooden window sill board is its natural origin and noble appearance. But such material is expensive, and solid wood products are subject to deformation. To preserve the window sill, you need to protect it from the effects of abrasives, water and aggressive chemicals, as well as periodically renew the coating.

Glued laminated timber boards have a lower cost and greater resistance to external influences, if they are made in compliance with the technology.

Particleboard and MDF

As a cheaper alternative to wood, many firms produce sill boards from chipboard or fiberboard. The products are covered with a special film on top. MDF is a more durable and moisture resistant material in comparison with chipboard. If the integrity of the film is violated, water that gets on the board from the shavings can lead to swelling and significant deformation. MDF is more expensive, but more stable.

Window sills made of wood shavings or fibers are very easy to clean. The main thing is not to use abrasives.

Stone products

Connoisseurs natural materials stone sill boards are often preferred. Most often it is granite or marble. Stone products are beautiful, each window sill has a unique pattern. But this pleasure is not cheap.

Plus on polished surfaces natural stone easy to scratch. Stone windowsills easily absorb dirt, such as coffee, wine or tea stains. And their thermal insulation is weak. Due to the high cost and high weight, it is better to invite professionals to install a stone window sill.

An alternative to the natural stone windowsill is a plank of artificial stone based on acrylic. Such products are not inferior in strength, heat resistance and beauty, but at the same time they are cheaper and do not get scratched.

PVC products in construction are becoming more and more popular every year. This also applies to plastic window sills, which have a whole list of advantages.

The PVC window sill also has disadvantages:

non-natural origin of the material;
decorative laminate can peel off and be easily scratched;
high temperatures, such as a hot saucepan, can deform the windowsill.

However, plastic window sills are most often used for self-installation.

How to mount a window sill

All window sills are mounted on general principle... Since plastic sill boards are more often used for do-it-yourself installation, we will describe in detail step by step instructions specifically for PVC window sills, noting at the end the features of the installation of structures from other materials.

Before buying materials, it is necessary to correctly measure the place where the window sill will stand. The length of the sill board is determined as follows:

To determine the width of the window sill, you need to measure the width of the wall to the window. To the result obtained, add 1.5 - 2 cm to deepen the board into the groove of the window. This width is sufficient if a flush-to-wall installation is planned, which is feasible for flat walls.

Note! When the walls are uneven, it is recommended to measure them on both sides of the window. This will allow the sill to fit and align.

A protrusion can be provided, the size of which should not exceed 8 cm, so as not to impede air convection from the battery. After all, this will not only disrupt the uniform distribution of heat in the room, but also in cold weather will lead to damage to the window as a result of the formation of ice.

In accordance with the measurements obtained, the window sill is adjusted to the required length and width. Now you can start installation.

Window sill installation

Step 1. Try on the future window sill at the installation site. Trim the board if necessary.

Note! Cutting plastic and stone is recommended with a grinder, a jigsaw is more suitable for wood, MDF and chipboard.

Step 2. Make grooves in the walls with a puncher, if necessary. The edges of the window sill will go into these recesses.

Step 3. Clean the installation surface from dust and debris.

Step 4.

Step 5. Wood wedges are laid under the windowsill, starting with the outer ones and ending with the central ones. The underlays should not protrude beyond the wall and the inner edge of the window sill. Maximum distance there should be 40 cm between the wedges.

Step 6. Align the windowsill with the spirit level. If there are deviations from the horizon, then they rule with additional wedges.

Note! The board should have a slope from the window to the inner edge of about 0.2 cm. This measure will prevent the accumulation of liquid near the window: water will simply drain.

Step 7. Load is placed on the windowsill. The total load should be 10-20 kg.

Step 8. After we additionally checked the horizontal position of the sill board, proceed to fixing it. For this, polyurethane foam is used. Better to use professional foam and a special spray gun. Additional fixation to the window profile is carried out from the outside using self-tapping screws.

Note! When the foam gets where it shouldn't be, it is removed immediately with a cloth. If it has already hardened, then you can wipe off the foam using special solvents.

Step 9. After 24 hours, remove the weight and trim excess foam.

Now you can install the plugs from the ends, and remove the protective film.

If a decision is made to install a wooden window sill, then on the inside of the board it is necessary to attach an antiseptic felt felt with the help of shredding. The ends of stone window sills are also protected with a felt layer before installation. Otherwise, the installation takes place according to the same principle as for plastic products.

Thus, the installation of a window sill is not difficult, especially when it comes to a plastic board. The main thing is to observe accuracy in alignment during work and not to overdo it with polyurethane foam.

Video - Installation of a window sill

You may well purchase a window sill separately from plastic window, because it can, for example, break down, or you first wanted to leave the old wooden window sill, but then changed your mind. We will tell you how to install a plastic window sill with your own hands.

Choosing the right one

If you opted for a PVC window sill, most likely all the positive and negative aspects of it were appreciated. The advantages are:

Durability. The plastic itself has a very long service life. It is unaffected by water or other corrosive non-corrosive liquids.
Relative ease of installation. Compared to products made from other materials, there is less risk of doing something wrong during installation.
Acceptable cost. Wooden window sills, made of artificial or natural stone, have a cost that is much higher.
Low weight.
Ease of processing.
Additional thermal insulation.
Easy to clean. Almost any non-abrasive detergent is suitable.

Here are some of the cons:

Instability to high temperatures(In most cases).
Inability to recover from damage. If wooden, for example, can be putty, cleaned and painted, then such a number will not work here.
If the surface of the product is rough, dirt builds up there over time, which is not so easy to wash.

Window sills can be purchased with or after the installed windows. Their installation is carried out both on the balcony and in wooden house... In this case, it is worth paying attention to:

Tool

In order for the installation to go like clockwork, we need the following tools:

hammer;
roulette;
level or laser level;
building corner;
polyurethane foam and a gun;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
plastic or other material linings;
acrylic or silicone sealant;
side plugs.

The foam can be of various degrees of expansion. You should choose it according to your needs. But it is better not to take the one that will not expand at all, because it will not be able to compensate for some gaps, and they may remain after installation.

This step can take most of the time, but it is actually the most important step in the entire process.

Let's see how the window is installed. It is important to assess if there are any deviations from the horizontal plane. To do this, apply a level or start a projection from a laser level along the lower edge of the frame. In the future, the window sill will be exposed exactly on it, which can also lead to distortion. If there are small deviations, then this is not scary, further it will be described how they can be compensated.

We measure the width of the window opening. It is important to remember that the plane of the stand should be recessed into the slopes by 1 cm from each end, and the protruding part on the sides should extend beyond the opening by 3 cm or more.

We make grooves in the slopes where the ends of the window sill will go. The edge of the frame will serve as a guide in this regard. Pay attention to the edge of the stand on which the window sits, namely the bottom edge of the frame.

In order to do everything right, you can use several methods. Using a laser plane builder, a horizontal line is projected onto the opening. From this line along the window, a measurement is made to the edge, the value is fixed. Further from the same line, the same distance is laid, but already on the slope. If there is no level, then you can use a water or ordinary level, which is placed close to the bottom line of the frame, aligned horizontally on the bubble indicator and a mark is made.

A straight line is drawn that will connect our mark and the edge of the frame.

Most likely, there is a metal corner at the corners of the slopes. In no case should you try to knock it down with a chisel and a hammer, so you can damage it completely. For this, it is better to use a grinder. Just make two small transverse cuts across its width. An incision is also made along the marked line.

With the help of a chisel or other suitable tool and a hammer, indentations of 1.5‒2 cm are knocked out.

Next, you need to evaluate the surface on which the installation will be carried out. Attention should be paid not only to how uneven it is, but also to how far from it to the bottom of the window. Ideally, it should not exceed 4 cm.This is due to the fact that it is with this thickness of foam the best way polymerized, which makes it quite dense and durable. If the layer size is large, then voids can form inside, which reduces the bearing capacity, and can also cause drafts.

In the event that the size exceeds 4 cm, it is necessary to reduce the gap. This can be done with the help of available tools. For example, you can build a small formwork from the rule and pour the solution. In this case, it will be easier to deduce the required level. If the installation is carried out at a time when there are still remnants of a brick or foam block from the partitions inside the room, then the base can be laid out of them, and all the cracks can be sealed with mortar or glue. After that, you need to give at least a day for everything to stand and grab.

In the event that the level of the base will rise with the help of a foam block, it must be soaked in water for a short time. Due to its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, and if it takes too much of it from the solution it will be placed on, there will be no seizure. Wetting saturates the foam block with moisture, so the setting will be the best possible.

Installation work

The first step is cleaning. It is better to produce it with construction vacuum cleaner as brushes and brushes cannot remove all dust.

Moisture is required for good adhesion of foam to other materials. Therefore, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water. But you can go further and kill two birds with one stone. You do not need to use water, but a primer. In this way it will be possible to remove the remaining dust, as well as provide the necessary moisture. It can be applied with a brush, but it is more convenient to do it with a hand spray. If you use the latter, then cover the windows with something or wipe them down immediately. If you allow the impregnation to dry, then then it will have to be removed with consequences.

The marking of the window sill is being carried out. Its total width will be the width of the opening plus 10 cm (this overlap is necessary to provide 5 cm for each "ear"). The depth will be equal to the distance from the window stand to the middle of the heater, if it is under the window. Better not to cover it completely. If you do this, then warm air will not flow to the glass, and they will fog up, which will lead to the accumulation of condensation and the growth of mold and mildew. If there is no battery and radiator, then the overhang can be carried out by 5 cm. In some cases, at the request of the customer, an even larger protrusion is made. Perhaps the space will be used as an extension of the desktop or something else. In this case, it is necessary to install metal corners as props. Their base is embedded in the plaster. The length of the window sill is adjusted taking into account the fact that the edges will be recessed by 1 cm into the wall.

Using a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw, trimming is carried out.

Next, you need to prepare the props on which the plane will lie. Special plastic plates are often used, but they may not give the required rigidity. Instead, you can use parts of a trimmed window sill. It is worth placing them every 40‒50 cm. They are exposed using a building level or using a level (when using the latter, a line is projected and measurements are taken from it at two ends to the supports, the distance should be the same). Their height should be such that the window sill buttly goes under the lower part of the frame and rests against the mounting bar. In order not to move them in the process, you can fix them with self-tapping screws. If the platform is from a gas block, then you can simply screw it through with self-tapping screws, in the case of a brick, you will have to use a puncher and dowels.

You can go the other way and install the props not across, but along the windowsill. They can be made from plaster beacons. In this case, there will be a greater emphasis, which will definitely exclude deflections and creases.

With the help of a pistol and polyurethane foam, the cracks, which may be under the window, are sealed. You need to be especially careful about the corners. There are times that everything is installed beautifully, and a draft blows from below, which is an indicator of inattention.

Plugs are mounted on the window sill, and it is tried on in its place. If there are no gaps between it and the window, then you can continue the installation. In the case when the gap is large enough, it is necessary to raise the props; at its minimum values, it can be expected that the foam will compensate for the gap. Until the repair is completely completed, you do not need to remove the film, it will be enough to lift it in those places that will hide in the wall and under the window.

If the props were installed lengthwise, then the main layer of foam must be applied before the window sill is installed in its place. If across, then blowing can be done in several stages. Before installation - the part that is closer to the window. Then walk along the middle line, and then along the edge.

For a day, the plane must be pressed down with a load. To do this, you can use books, egg bottles with water, dumbbells (but it is advisable to make a lining of durable material under them), etc.

After polymerization and drying of the foam, its excess is cut off. Moreover, under the windowsill, it must be cut flush by about 1 cm so that you can safely putty this space and the applied material has a sufficient layer.

If there is a bias

The solution will be a little installation trick. Most often, this remains invisible to others, especially if the width of the product is more than 25 cm. For this we need self-tapping screws or some other material with which it will be possible to make adjustable beacons. They are mounted in two lines. The first one should be almost close to the window, and its level should exactly repeat the slope of the window. The second is installed closer to the edge. It must be aligned exactly to the level using a special tool. After installation, the distant part of the window sill will fit snugly against the window frame, and the near one will be exactly level. This will deceive the eyes and create the visual effect of correct positioning.

The installation of the window sill can be combined with the installation of plastic overlays on the corners near the window. Never rush through the process, especially when laying out. We are interested to know what nuances you have noticed personally for yourself. Share your observations in the comments.

Video

Watch a video tutorial from a professional on installing a PVC window sill. All the nuances are clear:

An indispensable attribute of any window system is a window sill. In addition to performing a decorative function, it additionally protects the room from the penetration of cold in the area of the support profile. The most widespread are plastic (PVC), wooden and partly granite window sills. But since plastic products cost less, have high performance characteristics, and their weight is lower, they are in great demand. Carrying out installation works does not require special skills, therefore the installation of a window sill, if available the necessary tool can be done by hand.

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When sill replacement is required

A large selection of polyvinyl chloride boards allows you to choose a product with the necessary characteristics according to the following parameters:

color performance, with imitation of stone or valuable wood species;
dimensions in mm: width 110–800, length 4050–6000, thickness 18–22;
a specific manufacturer;
affordable cost per running meter;
the quality and composition of polyvinyl chloride;
resistance to wear and tear, heat, ultraviolet radiation.

There are several reasons why the owners of an apartment or house decide to install a window sill on their own:

The windows are in good condition, but the panel has become unusable - damaged, scratched, sagged.
The previous product was not secured correctly.
After the repair, there was a desire to install Pvc plate a different color, more suitable for the new interior.
Change the width of the panel. Replacing it with a narrow product that does not block the movement of warm air from the heating element upwards, thereby improving the circulation of air flows. The window frame warms up and does not damp, which reduces the likelihood of mold.
It is difficult to find a specialist to perform small amounts of work in the form of a single window sill plate.
The desire to carry out the installation yourself, saving a little money.

For successful installation the window sill on your own will need to additionally purchase two end caps, they are attached to the side sections of the product at the final stage of work. And when joining two sill panels at an angle or in a straight line, they get a universal PVC connector.

Tools and materials

The quality of the work performed, the ease and convenience of carrying out them, the service life of the entire window structure depend on the quality and class of tools and materials used. First of all, you need to prepare:

PVC window sill;
building level with a measuring tape, pencil;
electric jigsaw, grinder;
a cylinder of polyurethane foam for a special gun;
stationery knife;
wooden wedges of different thicknesses;
mounting brackets, screws;
chisel with a hammer;
spatula with a primer.

Preparatory work

Before you put the window sill, you need to prepare the place , side slopes and the lower part of the window opening. Depressions in the slopes are additional support for the canvas on the sides, so the panel should go slightly into the walls. To do this, attaching it to the wall, apply appropriate marks on each side with a pencil (marker). Next, grooves are selected, going deeper by 1–2 cm. This work To avoid the formation of large holes and excessive damage to the slopes, it should be done very carefully.

In the presence of metal perforated corners horizontal cuts in the slopes will be correctly done with the help of a grinder, then the cut will turn out to be absolutely even. The rest of the indentation is completed with a chisel and hammer, which are well suited for working on any soft surfaces such as gypsum plaster... If the walls are made of concrete, then the side grooves are made with a perforator with a special nozzle in the form of a chisel.

Only after that, the bottom of the window opening is prepared with an installed support profile, to which the sill is adjoined and aligned relative to the window. The surface is cleaned of the remnants of plaster, concrete, brick and dust generated during the work with slopes is swept away. For better adhesion to the polyurethane foam, moisten the prepared base, but it will competently use a primer, applying it on the surface with a brush. Having impregnated all pits, bulges and cracks with itself, it will securely hold the base.

Measurement and trimming

Before starting the installation, you will need to take measurements, on the correctness of which it depends appearance, the strength of the future structure. Therefore, in addition to the characteristics and properties of a product made of polyvinyl chloride, it is necessary to take into account such nuances as its thickness and the distance between the battery and the window sill. Otherwise hanging over heating device the stove, disrupting the air circulation, will cause a deterioration in the microclimate in the room.

The length of the panel to be installed must exceed the distance between the slopes and go into them to a depth of two to three centimeters. The width is selected arbitrarily, but since the window sill is located above the battery, the front protrusion is made no more than 8 cm, which is necessary for normal heating and movement of air masses inside the room. For this reason, the vertical distance from the battery is maintained at least 10 cm.

On the sides of the window sill, gaps of 5 mm must be left. Their presence will avoid damage caused by deformation of the panel when it is heated from the battery or under the influence of sunlight. To maintain the required distance, beacons with a thickness of 5 mm are used, which are removed at the final stage of work, and the cracks formed in their place are sealed with a sealant.

In accordance with the measurements taken, a window sill of the required length and width is cut from the workpiece. To do this, it is better to use a jigsaw or a grinder, a hacksaw with a fine-toothed metal saw, which will allow you to get perfectly smooth edges. Since plastic is a brittle material, sawing should be done carefully, without excessive force.

If the above requirements are not met, chips, cracks are formed, and the edge of the panel will turn out to be uneven. Work must be carried out in compliance with all safety measures, therefore, to protect against small particles formed during intensive cutting, work gloves and goggles must be worn.

Installation instructions

There are several ways how to install a window sill.

The oldest method involves fixing it with a special compound. Today, due to the appearance of more convenient, reliable fastening options, it is rarely used.
With self-tapping screws. Holes for hardware are prepared in the window frame. After processing them with acrylic sealant, the edge of the window sill is brought under the window and fixed with screws.
On spring brackets. The fasteners are screwed directly to the substitute profile and the product is installed in the formed groove, between the frame and brackets.
By wedging with beams. They are driven under the panel all the way, trying to keep its edge pressed against the frame. This method considered the most time consuming, but at the same time reliable.

Additional rigidity of the structure, regardless of the chosen installation method, is given by placing special linings under the window sill and filling the resulting voids with polyurethane foam.

It is easier and more convenient to fix the product on the mounting foam, having previously aligned it on a level on wooden or plastic supports. They can be prepared in very different thicknesses, lengths and widths, which facilitates height adjustment. If the space between the base and the window sill exceeds 100 mm, then it is partially filled with mortar, while leveling the surface. A gap of a few centimeters is sufficient for the foam.

The supports are installed, maintaining a distance of 400–500 mm between them, but in an amount of at least three units - one in the center, two at the edges. The thickness of the substrate is chosen so that the window sill fits exactly between the supports and the lower edge of the window. Further, special mounting plates bent at an angle are screwed onto the support profile to hold the panel. By compressing the front of the workpiece, they minimize the chance of a gap forming. Long screws can be used instead of plates.

Having prepared the supports and installing the panel, preliminary alignment is performed relative to the horizon. If the space under the window is planned to be filled mineral wool, and not polyurethane foam, then the plate is removed and the supports are glued to the base with silicone glue.

Having removed a part of the protective film on the sides - in the places of abutment to the slopes, end caps are attached to them. The panel is carefully wound up and, resting on the substrates, is inserted into place. With a light tapping, the window sill is adjusted to the window until it stops, thereby aligning it in width.

Recheck the position relative to the horizon in the transverse and longitudinal directions. Ideally, the level air bubble should be centered, but slightly offset towards the room. Then the presence of a slope will prevent the accumulation of moisture.

When installing a window sill on a balcony or loggia, there are nuances. Since there is no reliable support, the workpiece has to be fixed on the brackets. They are pre-mounted on a support profile or lower on the wall using self-tapping screws with press washers. The minimum number of brackets for one window sill is at least 4 pieces. It is recommended to maintain a distance of no more than 25 cm between them. For the reliability of the structure, additional fastening of the panel with the frame to screws is carried out.

The final stage of work

When the polyurethane foam hardens, it increases in volume, and the window sill can, when raised, deform. Therefore, before foaming the window-sill space, the panel is loaded using any available weighting materials - containers with water, books, collapsible dumbbells. They will hold it in place, and the foam will be squeezed out along its entire length. The surplus of the hardened foam is cut off with a knife and the final finishing is carried out.

After installing the window sill, all detected gaps and cracks in the area of the slopes and at the bottom of the window are eliminated using silicone sealant... It is applied in a thin strip and compacted by swiping with your finger. The surplus is promptly removed with a damp cloth. Once dry, this will be more difficult and the result will be less flavorful.

Excess dry foam is also removed by cutting it off with a clerical knife to a depth of 1 cm. Further, the surface under the panel and large voids found flush with the wall are filled with ordinary plaster. On the ends of the window sill, using glue for PVC products, plugs are installed. At the end of all work, after the final finishing of the slopes, it remains to remove the protective film.

As you can see, installing a window sill on your own does not require special skills. The only significant obstacle may be the lack of the necessary tools and the purchase of consumables (their leftovers may no longer be useful). Accordingly, the costs will be higher than the services of a qualified specialist.

The role and significance of a window sill cannot be overestimated, since it is far from only a beautiful window element that performs a decorative function. It does not allow cold air from the street to penetrate inside the house, thus playing an important function in the thermal insulation of the room. In this regard, the installation of a window sill with your own hands should be done with maximum accuracy and accuracy, in compliance with all rules and regulations! We will talk about the basics, features and nuances of this in our article.

What is the window sill made of?

Modern window sills can be made from a wide variety of materials. Depending on this, the installation method also changes.

Made of plastic

PVC products are becoming more and more popular in construction from year to year. The situation is similar with plastic window sills, which stand out with a whole list of advantages:

Easy to install by hand;
Manufacturers place on top of a special laminating film, which can be decorated with various images and colors, which makes it possible to choose the model that best suits the style of the room;

They keep heat well inside the room;
Plastic tolerates moisture well and is not afraid of mold and fungi, which is especially important for indoor plant lovers;
The surface is easy to clean;
Thanks to the stiffening ribs, modern plastic window sills withstand mechanical stress;
Temperature drops are not terrible;
The characteristics of the plastic window sill do not deteriorate under prolonged exposure to sunlight.

However, despite the many advantages, PVC window sills also have a number of disadvantages:

High temperatures on the surface, for example, the lid of a hot pot, can damage the product, causing deformations;
Laminating decorative film easily scratched, in addition, over time it can peel off;
Artificial origin of the material.

And although PVC products have some drawbacks, however, most often the owners of apartments and houses choose it, performing self-installation windowsill.

Stone board

Connoisseurs of the natural often prefer stone windowsill boards. In most cases, this is used marble and granite... Of course, stone models are distinguished by their unique natural image on the surface and beauty in general, but this pleasure cannot be called cheap!

Along with this, you can easily put an ugly scratch on the carefully polished surface of natural stone, their thermal insulation leaves much to be desired, and many dirt, be it tea, wine or coffee stains, are easily absorbed by the material. In addition, the large mass and cost of the material does not leave any chances for self-installation, forcing to hire professionals for this.

Decent alternative natural material the window sill is considered made of artificial stone... It is made of acrylic and is not inferior to its natural counterpart in beauty, heat resistance and strength. An additional advantage of a stone acrylic window sill is that the surface is not scratched, and the product itself is much cheaper.

MDF and chipboard

Window sills made of chipboard and MDF panels remain more budget option versus wooden products... Many manufacturers make sill boards from fibreboard and chipboard. From above, such models are covered with a special film.

Chipboard is a less moisture resistant and durable material than MDF - if the protective film is damaged and moisture gets on the board from the shavings, the latter can begin to swell, which will lead to noticeable deformations of the window sill. MDF boards are more stable, but their price is higher.

Sill boards made of wood fiber and shavings are easy to clean, the main thing do not use abrasive products for this!

Made of wood

Such types of wood as pine, cherry and oak have long remained the usual material for the production of window sills. Wooden window sills remain very popular today.

Do-it-yourself installation of a wooden window sill begins with thorough drying and processing of the material. varnish and antiseptic composition.

The main advantage of a wooden window sill is its noble appearance and natural origin. However, the wood mass is susceptible to deformation, and the material itself is not cheap. It will be possible to increase the performance characteristics of a wooden window sill if you avoid contact with aggressive chemicals, water and abrasives. In addition, it is worth updating the coverage from time to time!

Subject to compliance with all technological standards and requirements, window boards from are more resistant to negative external factors and a lower price tag.

DIY window sill installation

Regardless of the type of window sill, the installation is carried out according to one scenario. And since in most cases PVC window sills are independently mounted, we will use them as an example and will tell you step by step how to install the window sill with our own hands, highlighting the features and nuances of the work along the way. At the end, we will touch on the features of the installation of structures from a different material.

Board length and width

Before purchasing the material, it is worthwhile to accurately measure the proportions of the future window sill. The length of the sill board is measured as follows:

The width of the opening is measured near the window, as well as against the wall from the side of the room;
In order to hide the edges of the board inside the slopes, it is necessary to add at least 1 centimeter to the maximum width of the opening;
If you plan to place a bulging window sill in the room (which does not go flush with the wall), then, in addition to the dimensions of the board, you should also take into account the dimensions of the lugs.

Measure the width of the wall to the window to most accurately measure the width of the window sill. Add 1.5-2 centimeters to this value, which will go as indentations into the grooves of the window. This will be more than enough when installing the board flush with more or less even walls.

An important nuance! If the walls have irregularities, then it is worth accurately measuring the distance on both sides - this will make it possible to do the installation with your own hands as evenly as possible.

If desired, you can organize a small ledge, but its size should be no more than 8 centimeters, otherwise air convection may be disturbed, which will cause ice formation in the cold season and uneven distribution of heat in the room.

Based on the dimensions obtained, the sill board is adjusted in width and length. After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the window sill with your own hands.

Dismantling the window sill (photo)

Installation procedure

Place the future window sill at the installation site. Trim the board as needed.

In the case of chipboard, wood and MDV, it is better to cut the material jigsaw, for stone and plastic is better suited Bulgarian!

If necessary, make grooves in the surface of the wall with a puncher. It is here that the edges of the window sill will lean against in the future.

Thoroughly clean the surface of the workpiece from debris and dust.
Remove the protective film from the edge of the board to be inserted and insert the window sill into the window profile.
Starting from the outer sides, wooden wedges are installed under the window sill. In this case, the maximum step between the wedges should not exceed 40 centimeters, and the inserts themselves should not go beyond the inner edge of the window sill and wall.

The level of the windowsill is checked with a spirit level. In the case of a slight deviation from the horizontal, the level of the board is straightened by driving in additional wedges.

It is important to emphasize that the slope angle to the inner edge of the window should be about 2 millimeters! Thanks to this, water will not accumulate at the window, just flowing down.

Any load is placed on the windowsill, while the total mass should be in the region of 10-20 kilograms.

After checking and leveling the board horizontally, the board is secured in place. For this purpose, polyurethane foam is usually used. For a better quality of work, it is worth using professional foam, as well as a special pistol, with the help of which the foam will be sprayed. Finally, with the help of self-tapping screws, additional fixation to the profile from the outside is carried out.

An important point! If foam ends up in a place where it shouldn't be, immediately clean the surfaces with a cloth. Cured foam should be removed with a special solvent.

After a day, excess foam is trimmed, and all excess load is removed from the window. In the end is removed protective film and plugs are installed from the ends.

If you are planning to install a wooden window sill, then by inside boards should be placed antiseptic-treated felt... This is done by means of shingles. In the case of stone window sills, the ends are similarly protected with a felt layer. In other respects, the installation of a window sill made of wood and stone is no different from its plastic counterpart.

Thus, the installation of the window sill is carried out with your own hands, as you can see, there is nothing super complicated here, especially when it comes to plastic construction. The main thing is not to overdo it with applying polyurethane foam and observe attention and accuracy during work.

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