Rabbit cage drawings detailed manufacturing guide. DIY step-by-step instructions for making cages for rabbits

Breeding and keeping pets implies a great degree of responsibility of the breeder and requires strict adherence to certain rules. One of the most important is the creation of acceptable living conditions for the animal. They should be close to nature.

Rabbits have a high degree of resistance to various diseases. They are unpretentious to food and conditions of detention, they multiply easily. But despite all this, animals need a properly organized home.

The construction of a pet house must be approached competently. This takes into account the number of animals, their sex composition and age.

What do you need for rabbit breeding?

To do it at home, special cash costs are not required. It is necessary to have cages for animals, drinkers, food containers. All this is easy to do with your own hands.

Harvesting hay and branches can be done in summer. Roots and vegetables are easy to pick in your own garden. The main item of expenditure will be the vaccination of animals and the purchase of concentrated feed.

In each cage, same-sex animals of approximately the same age, weight and character should be housed. It is recommended to place adult animals and females with rabbits in one- and two-section cages.

The sizes of rabbit cages have standard indicators:

length - 100-120 cm;
height - 50 cm;
width - 70 cm.

For young rabbits, wooden cages covered with steel mesh are suitable. Their sizes correspond to the sizes of animals. For example, for 10 individuals, a cage with the same dimensions as indicated above will be acceptable, but its length should be 170 cm.

How to build a one-tier cage?

Many are interested in how to make a rabbit cage with their own hands. Of course, given the right materials, this is not so difficult. The article presents drawings of rabbit cages. Also, recommendations are given on the choice of materials for work.

For the outside in the cage system, the most popular are double single-tier rabbit cages.

The length of such cells is 220-240 cm, and the width is 65 cm.The height of the wall in front is 35 cm.The roof should be with one slope, equipped with a canopy protruding forward by 20 cm, and from the sides by 10 cm.

There are two feed compartments in the cage. The floor is made of metal mesh. The size of the cells should be 18x18 mm or 16x48 mm. The mesh should be overlaid with a width of 2 cm, and the connector between them is 1.5-1.8 cm.

Do-it-yourself rabbit cages with the correct design should have a partition with a hole, the width of which is 17 cm, and the height is 20 cm.It should be located between the nest and the aft compartment in order to prevent rabbits from entering the aft compartment from the nest. The manhole is constructed at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor.

On the front side of the cage there are two mesh doors that lead to the feeding compartment, as well as two solid board doors leading to the nest compartment. On the doors leading to the stern, it is necessary to hang feeders with a removable structure and drinkers.

For feeding with roughage, a nursery is installed between the compartments. They are based on two frames made of wood, on which the net is stretched. The mesh size should be 20x50 mm. The lower ends of the frames are aligned, and the upper ends are moved apart to the sides of the feed compartment. The result is a V-shaped roughage nursery.

What materials will you need?

To build a single-tier cage for two individuals, the performer will need:

Plywood with an area of 2 m 2.
Metal mesh with a mesh size of 18x18 mm or welded mesh 16x48 mm (1.3 m 2).
Mesh with cells 35x35 cm or 24x48 cm (0.6 m 2).

Making bunk cages

The cost of building a two-tiered animal cage is not that high. This is because the design is simple. In addition, the cash costs will pay off in the very first months of use.

What materials will you need?

To make a cage with two tiers, you will need:

Two wood fiber sheets.
Bars 60x100 mm (4 pcs.).
Picket strips (50 pcs.).
Roofing material 4x2 m for the construction of a pallet.
Nails.
Dye.

What equipment is required?

Two deep bowls, covered with enamel (their diameter should be 220 mm).
Manure collection tank (approx. 300 mm high).
Pair VPI-03 (used and household use immersed in water).
Step down transformers 220x127 V (4 pcs. For 8 cells).
5 liter polyethylene canisters (4 pcs.).

Cage design

The rabbit cages need to be positioned according to how the light will fall. A blank closed wall, where the nursery boxes and feeders are located, should face north. This protects the animals from wind and cold.

The roof is constructed so that it hangs 90 cm from the north and 60 cm from the south. From the west and east, the roof should be on a par with the protruding beams.

Bunk rabbit cages contain a frame-stand, lower and upper tier. You can also build a roof from the roof. As a rule, a transparent or translucent material is used. You can also use roofing material.

The tier on top is a jig, that is, it will serve as a place for raising rabbits after the end of the mother's milk feeding. This room is made from different cells. One of them should be larger than the frame.

The jig is divided into two parts by means of a feed trough, which has outlets on both sides. A common canister drinker is also installed here. Each compartment should be equipped with a folding feeder for compound feed, a manger for fresh and dry grass. They look like an opening door. There is a door adjacent to the drinker.

The floor at the tier is horizontal. Its base can be made of wood slats, which are located at an angle of 45 degrees so that small rabbits cannot hurt their paws. All walls and doors of the cage are made of lattice. The north side is an exception.

Below is the uterine tier. It consists of two compartments: nesting and walking. It can also include the same components that are present in the upper tier.

The nest compartment has a removable floor. It is located below the rest of the tiered area. The mother liquor will be placed in this compartment. Before the rabbit brings the babies, she will instinctively make her way into it herself.

The rest of the nest should be stationary. It is equipped with a wall with a manhole overlapping with a latch. It is better to equip the door to the nest with hinges from below, so that in the open state it serves as a platform for the animal.

The walking compartment is equipped with a floor made of perpendicular slats. This ensures the rigidity of the structure. In the walking area there is a canister drinker, a folding trough and a bunker trough for compound feed. Nursery on the back of the walking rack. The drinker must also have a door installed.

In the floor of the walking room, a window is erected under the end of the conical shaft, which is attached under the floor of the upper tier. The pitched shaft is connected to a hopper equipped with a removable door and a manure container. Thus, the rabbit cages will be cleaned by special doors, which will also make the feed containers accessible. The containers themselves are located under the inclined nets of the feeders.

The electrical equipment compartment is located at the bottom of the cage frame. In parallel, this place serves as a jig for rabbits. It must be locked. For convenient loading of the feeders, it is necessary to build it folding outward.

The design of the feed trough has a body with windows for rabbits, as well as a pallet. It is constructed of fine mesh mesh.

All folding components must be equipped with handles, hinges and latches, as well as, if necessary, and mortise locks.

The side and front walls are tightened with a fine mesh, the working side can be closed with a large mesh.

Mini-farm of bunk cages

It doesn't take a lot of floor space to build a small farm based on bunk cages. One cell occupies 1.4 m 2. If you build a farm of two rows and use eight cells with an opening between them of 70 cm (measured by the legs) and a passage of 110 cm, then the area of the farm will be 25 m 2.

Each cage contains up to 25 rabbits at a time. A rabbit with a new offspring will sit in the lower part, and the previous offspring will sit in the upper part.

Over the years, cages from two tiers have been used on experimental farms and have shown their high profitability and profitability. So their use is recommended to all farmers.

Family block making - cages of three sections

Making rabbit cages with your own hands of such a design is a more difficult task. But such family blocks are very convenient for animal breeding. A male lives in the central part, and rabbits are on the sides.

Partitions made of wood between the cell compartments are equipped with manholes with plywood latches. They are designed for easy transfer of females to the male and returning them back to their compartment.

What materials are used to build a cage?

Bars can form the basis of the frame. The walls on the sides, the compartment for the nest with doors and partitions are built from lining.

For the front wall, a metal mesh is used. In the nesting offices, an attic is provided - this is a free space between the ceiling and the common roof, where female rabbits can rest.

An additional convenience is that the position of the feeders and drinkers is thought out in such a way that they are not subject to contamination and can be filled from the outside.

Cages for rabbits according to the design of the breeder N.I. Zolotukhin

The famous rabbit breeder N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding these cute animals for several decades. Such a wealth of experience helped him design a new rabbit cage.

Features of the breeder's cells

The floor is solid. Its basis is slate or boards.
There are no pallets in the cages.
A narrow strip of mesh flooring is found only along the back walls of the structure.
The rear walls are tilted so that rabbit waste from the tiers above does not fall on the rabbits in the lower tiers.
There are no special queen cells. The rabbit builds a nest for herself before giving birth.
Grain feeders are attached to the doors and can be turned outward for filling.

A diagram of the rabbitry is presented below.

How to make cages for dwarf rabbits with your own hands?

If you want to start houses, then their cells are built in a different way. There are many pet shops different models... But you don't have to purchase them. You can make your own pet cage and it doesn't take long.

The structure consists of two walls on the sides, the size of which is 70x70 cm. The back wall is fixed in such a way that a gap is obtained under the cage. The height of the back wall is 55 cm, the length is 100 cm.

Meter slats are nailed to the bottom of the cage. A metal mesh is fixed on top of them.

The cage cover is made of hinged mesh. It is equipped with a handle. A pallet is installed under the cage.

How to choose a mesh?

When making rabbitries, of course, you need a net. In order for the manufacturer to better understand which mesh choice will be optimal, we advise you to use a number of tips.

Many people ask the question: is galvanized mesh, steel or aluminum material suitable? It is better to opt for a steel structure, as it is durable.

To make a wooden cage with mesh doors and a floor, the mesh should be chosen carefully so that it does not injure the paws of the animals. Experienced breeders advise using it with small cells. The material used is metal. The mesh thickness is 2 mm, and the mesh size is 16x48 mm. For the construction of the side walls of the cage, a galvanized mesh is suitable.

For the construction of the door, any kind of mesh is used. It does not have to be welded. Allowed to use and wicker.

In the warm season, animals can be kept in an enclosure fenced with a net. A wicker structure with a thickness of 1.2 mm is suitable for it.

Among the various domestic animals, rabbits occupy a special place. Their maintenance is quite beneficial: the owner receives meat and fur, while giving away very little. For a good profit from rabbits, you will need to comply with some standards of maintenance. And although much depends on nutrition and care, the first thing to think about is the cells.

While it is enough for cows, chickens or goats to have a simple barn, then for rabbits it is worth taking care of special conditions. The optimal solution on the issue of price - quality - make a cage for rabbits with your own hands... Not only is it cheaper, it can take into account all the characteristics of the breed and the location. What material is suitable for this and what points should be taken into account, we will talk about this in the article and present photos and drawings of some cages for rabbits.

Where to place cells

When choosing a breeding site for domestic rabbits and placing their cages, it is important to avoid wind and drafts.

But it doesn't matter at all whether the cage is outdoors or indoors.

In addition to weather conditions, the number and size of the rabbit cage are taken into account.

With normal dilution, one cell will not be enough. You will need a room for pregnant rabbits, their cubs and males, and this is a whole residential complex.

Dimensions - the dimensions of the finished rabbit cages largely depend on the breed of pets, but there are minimum values, the calculation of which is based on the data given in the table.

Rabbit farm technology elements	Maximum number of rabbit heads per unit area	The area norm for 1 head of a rabbit, sq.m.	Dimensions, m
Rabbit farm technology elements	Maximum number of rabbit heads per unit area	The area norm for 1 head of a rabbit, sq.m.	Length	Width
For main herd rabbits
Two-section rabbit cage Nest department	1	0,5-0,65 0,18	0,6-0,7	0,9 0,36
Group cages for keeping rabbits in sheds (sheds)
For young animals	6	0,1	0,9	0,672
For replacement chicks: females males		0,15 0,605		0,672 0,672
Individual cages for keeping rabbits in sheds (sheds)
For young animals	1	0,13-0,16	0,29-0,36	0,45
For replacement young animals	1-2	0,22-0,32	0,48-0,72	0,45

The height of the cages for both domestic rabbits and rabbits kept on industrial rabbit farms is taken to be at least 45 centimeters.

The size of the rabbit nest box: length - 50 cm, width - 36 cm, height 30-4 cm.

In the manufacture of cages for keeping rabbits, a galvanized metal mesh is used, the mesh size of which is 24x24-50 mm, the floors are 16x48 mm.

Farmers can take care not only of the dwelling of the wards, but also of the place for walking.

Photo of wooden cages for growing rabbits

Cell materials

The choice of material, as well as the place, must be treated with attention. Usually, they try not to use metal parts in the construction of cages. The frame and supports of the cage can be assembled from wooden parts. The choice of wall material is more varied, you can use a board, plywood or mesh. The final option will depend on the climatic zone and the location of the cells.

Some tips for choosing and preparing material:

The cell dimensions of the rabbit cage should be small;
For fixing the mesh, you can use wooden or plastic slats;
It is important to take care of the safety of the animals inside the cage. For this, all wooden parts are processed.

Making a rabbit cage and its dimensions

The optimal size of the cage - dwelling for adults is 1500x700x700 mm. If you make the floor from mesh or wooden slats, then caring for the rabbits will be more convenient. Waste products will be automatically removed from cells. The street version is assembled with a two-level floor, where the bottom layer is made of boards.

Roof for rabbit cage made of the same material as the walls. But if outdoor maintenance is planned, then you need to take care of protection from precipitation. Can be covered with slate or other similar non-metallic material. If the roof is made of metal, then in sunny weather it will become hot and it will become very hot inside.

It is advisable to place the finished cells at a short distance from the floor or the ground. This will provide protection from rodents and make caring for your pet rabbits convenient. Rabbit feeding equipment must be free from contamination. Some have solved this issue by making retractable or hanging feeders.

A little more about the size of the rabbitry. The front wall of the cage should be about 10-15 cm higher than the back one. The entire area of the finished dwelling is divided into several sections, which are interconnected by small manholes. A hinged lid will add a bit of convenience to care.

It is worth mentioning again that the size of the cage for rabbits largely depends on the breed, quantity and place of keeping. But there is general recommendations to any type of cells:

The section in which the males are planned should be large enough. This will allow the animals to move freely and not get lazy, otherwise they will be unable to give birth to offspring.
For rabbits, a separate spacious cage is allocated. This section can accommodate up to four pieces. It is important to take into account that at first the rabbits are kept next to their mother for fattening.
Make one free cage in which you can feed the rabbits. Some babies do not gain enough weight during their time with their mother.
The access hole in the nesting compartment should be raised by about ten centimeters. In order not to gnaw it, you can knock off the edges with steel. But do it carefully, without leaving any jags.
The front wall should be equipped with two doors - one for the main compartment, the other for the nest. And if the first option can be mesh, then the last one is necessarily continuous.
Outdoor rabbit cages can be equipped with a walkway. To do this, a hole is made into the rear walls into a special enclosure, fenced with a net. This will allow the rabbits to frolic and enjoy the fresh grass.

Making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is not so difficult. If you apply the tips written above, then you can hope for a good increase in profits and convenient care for the animals.

Drawings and photos of cages for rabbits

Photo wooden cage for raising rabbits at home with size indication

Cage for three adult rabbits (for home keeping). Consists of two levels. The lower level has double doors that open wide to provide easy access to the cage. The upper level consists of two separate compartments, connected by an entrance. One of the compartments of the cage is for sleeping rabbits. The other compartment is covered with a net and this area can also be opened for easy access (great for cleaning the cage and for grooming and feeding rabbits). The design of this cage is quite simple, and you can make it yourself to keep rabbits in your garden.

In the photo there are rabbit cages made of wood and metal mesh

Photo of cages with a walk for rabbits

Drawings of cages for rabbits and their young

Drawing of an adobe cage (1), a wattle-clay cage (2), a combined cage with a walk for keeping rabbits (3), a cage from a box (4)

Drawings of cages for home keeping rabbits

Industrial cages for keeping and raising rabbits

Photo of one and two-tier cages for twelve rabbits with offspring (dimensions 2.3 x 2.05 m)

In the photo, one and two-storey cages for fattening meat (up to 144 heads)

Video tutorials for constructing cages for rabbits

Video about making a rabbit cage with your own hands:

Farming and raising livestock has always been a profitable pursuit, especially if you do it all year round. Rabbits of various breeds are especially popular among animal breeders - they are easy to keep, they are unpretentious, they eat simple and affordable feed. The only difficulty is that their maintenance requires cells, which, in order to save money, will have to be done by hand.

Is it necessary to keep rabbits in cages

Rabbits intended for domestic and industrial breeding are undemanding to the area on which they will be kept. This is largely due to their behavioral characteristics - in the wild, animals use small burrows as a place to rest and sleep.

Daylight hours, temperature and humidity are much more important. These indicators directly affect both the behavior and health of the animal, and the dynamics of its growth and weight gain. Temperatures of 12-18 о С and air humidity 60-75% are optimal for keeping most rocks.

In a household, rabbits are usually kept in two ways:

isolated - in cages or sheds;
freely - in enclosures or walks.

The cellular method allows you to accurately control the amount of food intake of the animal, thereby reducing feed consumption and preventing the animal from overeating. In addition, keeping the cages helps control the mating of the rabbits. Breeding of animals takes place clearly and according to the plan provided by the breeder.

In addition to this, the cellular method helps to avoid contamination of the entire population of rabbits due to the ingress of any infection to one or more individuals in the herd. Aviary keeping is most commonly used on European farms. This method is as close as possible to natural conditions, when the animal equips itself with a home. Unlike the cage method, the aviary method is more complicated and requires not only a large area of the site, but also constant monitoring of the livestock.

It is ideal if the breeder combines these two methods, but only professionals who have been doing this for more than a dozen years can achieve such conditions in modern realities. For novice breeders, we recommend using the cage keeping method, as the simplest and most effective one.

Depending on the climatic conditions in the region where it is planned to engage in animal husbandry, cages for keeping rabbits can be located directly on the street or in utility rooms. Therefore, taking into account the location of the cells, they can be classified into three types:

Some owners have two types of cells at their disposal. Some are always located in the utility room and have a convenient mesh bottom system that allows them to be cleaned quickly and conveniently. The latter are erected along the fence or wall of the building and represent winter version with a canopy.

This option has a lot of advantages, but not all breeders are available, since the content a large number animals requires a considerable area of the site. Therefore, for most people living in central Russia and trying themselves in animal husbandry, it is recommended to keep rabbits exclusively on the street.

Keeping rabbits on the street all the year round makes it possible to develop immunity in animals to various infections and diseases. And also Fresh air favorably affects the formation of a healthy and lush hairline.

Cell types

Conditionally, rabbit cages can be divided into two large groups... The first includes cages that differ from each other in the type of design, which determines their size and ease of use for the animal breeder. The second is cells used for a specific purpose for solving specific tasks.

By design

Depending on the design, rabbit cages are divided into the following types:

You can often find combined variants of cages, when an open-air cage is attached to the classic single-tier version. Usually, for two cells or sheds, an area of no more than 200x100x60 cm is sufficient.

For multi-tiered structures it is possible to arrange a place of exit directly to the harvest or land through special manholes. But this option is used extremely rarely, since factory cages are not equipped with such a system, and not every rabbit breeder can make it on his own.

By appointment

By appointment, rabbit cages are classified into the following types:

Video: overview of a two-tier street rabbit cage

Necessary materials

To make cages for okrol, young and adult rabbits, you will need the following material:

edged board - 30x100x3000 or 30x150x300 mm in size. It is necessary for covering the side and back walls of the cage. Can be used for sheathing a portable mother liquor;
wooden blocks- 40x40x3000 or 50x50x3000 mm in size. It will be needed for making the frame, legs and other elements of the cage. If desired, you can use rectangular bars;
To assemble the cage frame, an edged bar with a section of 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 is used
moisture resistant plywood - 9 or 12 mm thick. It will be required when making a floor in a cage, wall cladding and other solid elements. It is better to use sheets of 150 × 3000 mm;
steel pipes - with a cross section of 20 mm. They are rarely used, but with the ability to work with a welding machine, they can assemble a strong and durable frame. It is not recommended to use it for assembling the floor and making other elements that will come into contact with the body of animals;
steel mesh - galvanized fine-mesh with a mesh size of 15 × 15 or 20 × 20 mm. It is necessary for the manufacture of doors, covering some walls and constricting a place for waste disposal;
For sheathing the walls and doors in a cage, it is better to use a galvanized mesh with a cell of 20 × 20 mm
galvanized sheet - with a zinc coating with a thickness of 120 microns. It will be required in the manufacture of roofing, flooring and other elements for some types of cells. It is better not to use it for cladding the roof of street cages;
corrugated slate - traditional roofing material... It is better to use old slate for cladding the roof of street cages, which will significantly reduce the overall cost of the structure.

For the assembly of the cage frame, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of 70 mm are used. The boards and plywood are fastened with self-tapping screws 30–50 mm long. If desired, galvanized nails of appropriate length can be used. Fastening of doors, feeders and other rotary elements is carried out on ordinary furniture or door hinges.

Cell dimensions and drawing up

Before you start making a cage for rabbits, you need to decide on its parameters, which are selected taking into account the age, size and breed of the animal. We talked about the large-sized rabbit cages above. After the parameters are determined, you will need to draw up a project for the future cell in the form of a drawing.

Use the table below to determine the average cage size for normal rabbits. It indicates the range of length, width and height for the cages, taking into account the age of the animal.

Table: parameters of the cage for rabbits, depending on their age

In order to create a drawing of the future structure, you can use both ordinary office paper and millimeter drawing paper. On paper, you should schematically depict the frame and the main elements of the cell while maintaining proportions. Opposite each element, you need to designate its size in any convenient bit depth.

Schematic representation of a single-tier cage for rabbits from bars and boards

As an example, consider several drawings that can be found on the Internet. The first drawing shows a single-tier cage made of wood. The frame of this cage can be assembled from a 50 × 50 mm edged bar. For the frame sheathing, a 30 × 100 mm edged board is used.

The design of a single-tier cage consists of two compartments, separated by a partition in the form of a V-shaped feeder made of a mesh mesh. On the sides of the cage there are solid hinged doors. If desired, the doors can also be made of mesh.

Drawing of the most popular cage design with a V-shaped feeder

The second drawing shows a two-tier cage with a frame made of edged bar. The front wall of the cage is made in the form of a bar and mesh door, and grain feeders are located on the sides of the structure. The rabbit compartments are also separated by a feeder. A photograph of a cage made according to this scheme can be seen in the section "Construction of a two-tier cage".

DIY rabbit cages

All the options for rabbit cages described below can be made by hand without having much experience with construction tools. In addition to materials for making cages, it is necessary to prepare a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw, a screwdriver, a hammer, a plane, scissors for metal, pliers, a construction tape and a pencil.

How to build a three-tiered cell according to the Zolotukhin principle

Three-tier cage according to N.I. Zolotukhina may have different size, which is selected based on the size of the competitive breed of rabbits and the free space where the structure is planned to be located.

Up to 6 adults can live in one cell using the Zolotukhin technology

In our example, we will describe the assembly technology of a three-tiered cage 190 cm high, 140 cm wide and 60 cm deep. This multi-section structure will be enough to house six adult rabbits.

The technology of building a cell according to the Zolotukhin principle consists of the following:

It is necessary to make 12 long and short blanks from an edged bar 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. The length of the short workpieces is 540 mm, the length of the long ones is 1340 mm. From plywood, you will need to prepare 3 canvases of 1340 × 480 mm.
6 frame frames are assembled from the prepared blanks. For assembly, a screwdriver and galvanized self-tapping screws 50–70 mm long are used. When assembling, smaller bars are placed between longer workpieces. Fasteners are screwed into the butt end of short workpieces. The number of fasteners is 2 pcs for each workpiece.
For the installation of frame frames, you will need to make 4 blanks from a board of 30 × 100 mm. The length of the workpieces is 2250 mm. The resulting boards are laid on the floor, after which a frame is placed on them with the end side and fixed on 2 self-tapping screws on each side. By a similar principle, boards are attached from the opposite side. The step between the tiers depends on the height of the cages, but not less than 40 cm. When fastening, it should be borne in mind that there must be a gap of 10-15 cm between the tiers for installing pallets.
Drawing of a three-tier cage with a mother liquor and a V-shaped feeder
Next, the assembled frame is placed in an upright position. A previously prepared plywood sheet is laid on the support frame of each tier. Small spacers 1.5–2 cm high are placed under the plywood in the front corners. The plywood is attached directly to the frame using self-tapping screws 30 mm long. The fixing step is 25-30 cm.
The spacers will allow the floor to slope towards the rear wall. For their manufacture, you can use edged board or leftovers from the bars. To do this, you need to saw off a workpiece 10–15 cm long and cut it diagonally. If possible, you can use a hacksaw or a plane.
A steel mesh must be fastened to the gap between the plywood and the frame along the back wall. An appropriate piece of mesh is prepared using metal scissors. Next, the mesh is attached from the back. For this, metal staples and small screws are used.
To strengthen the cage frame, you can use a steel profile and corners
To make a partition, which will also play the role of a feeder, you will need to prepare 6 blanks from a 50 × 50 mm bar. This can be done using a tape measure marking the center along the horizontal guide frame. Then from the center it is necessary to measure the distance to the upper points at an angle of about 25 or about 30.
One of the ends of the blanks must be sawn off at the appropriate angle. After that, the resulting bars are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws 70 mm long. Between the installed V-shaped frames, a mesh with a cell of 25 × 25 mm is stretched. To fit the mesh, metal scissors or pliers are used.
The back and side walls of the cage are sheathed with a 30 × 100 mm board. If desired, they can be sheathed with plywood, but this will cost a little more. If the cage is assembled for outdoor use, then the sheathing is carried out with inside... This will make it possible to insulate the structure.
The bottom for the cages is made of slats or mesh
After sheathing, they begin to manufacture the doors. In order for the doors to have the correct rectangular shape, you will need to prepare 6 blanks from the bars, which are fixed in an upright position, stepping back from the feeder 20-30 cm. After that, the space between the feeder and the workpiece is covered with a net.
For the manufacture of doors, a bar of 40 × 40 mm is used. To do this, it is necessary to measure the distance from the bolted workpiece to the side wall, as well as the height between the floor and ceiling. Then prepare 4 bars for each door. The bars are fastened together using self-tapping screws 50 mm long. The door, as well as part of the front wall, is covered with a mesh.
Before fixing the door to the frame, you must choose the direction in which it will open. After that, depending on the direction, two hinges should be attached to the side or bottom side of the door. Finally, the door is attached to the side post or the lower deck rail. A mini metal latch can be used as a lock.
Schematic device of a cell with a mother liquor and a floor using the Zolotukhin technology
To install pallets under each tier, you will need to prepare supports from bars. For this, 4 square blanks with a size of 50 × 50 mm are sawn off from a bar. The workpieces are attached to the side posts of the frame so that 5–7 cm remains between the tier and the pallet. For the manufacture of the pallet, a steel sheet is used, which is bent around the perimeter by 1.5-2 cm.
At the final stage, roof sheathing is carried out. For this, the roof is lined with a wooden board 30 × 100 mm. A lathing is mounted on top of the board with a step of 10-15 cm. Slate is laid on the lathing. If necessary, the roof is insulated with expanded polystyrene.

It should be noted that the design of the Zolotukhin cage may have a slightly different form. Sometimes, the feeder is built directly into the door. For this, the frame of the feeder is made of galvanized metal, which is then mounted so that its lower part goes into the cage.

The design of street cages also has a slightly different look. The cage is almost completely sheathed with board or plywood. At the same time, the size of the door is minimal. In addition, inside the cell, it is rational to provide a mother liquor or other space protected from the cold.

In addition to feeders for hay and grain, drinkers must be provided. These can be either finished products with a separate container and water supply system, or handicraft inventions according to their own scheme.

Rabbit drinkers can be made from any plastic container with a cork

Drinking bowls with a nipple are most often used as finished products, when several tubes depart from a container of water at once. At the points of entry to the cage, the tubes are branched with a tee. The end of a tube with a nipple is brought into the cage, when pressed, the rabbit can freely drink water.

For self-made we recommend using the usual plastic bottle, into the cap of which the nipple will be screwed. If the bottle is small, then it is better to fix it inside the cage. If desired, a hose can also be connected to the bottle, into which the end with a nipple will be inserted. In this case, the bottle can be taken out.

Video: building a three-tier lumber rabbit cage

How to create a two-tiered cage

Bunk cages are most often used for keeping rabbits in utility rooms or as summer options... They are easy to make and repair due to their lightweight construction, much like what we described above.

The sequence of actions during the construction of a two-tier cell is as follows:

As an example, let's take a drawing of a cage, which we gave as an example in the section "Size of a cage and drawing up a drawing". Let us remind you that this is a structure with a total height of 2000 mm. The length of the tier is 1400 mm with a standard cage depth of 600 mm.
To assemble the frame frames, it is necessary to prepare 8 long and short blanks. The length of the short bars is 600 mm, the long ones are 1400 mm. You can immediately prepare the material for the racks. To do this, you need to saw off 4 blanks from a 30 × 100 mm board, each 200 cm long.
Grain feeders can be attached directly to the side doors of the cage
Then the resulting bars are fastened into frames using self-tapping screws 70 mm long. The resulting frames are mounted on racks made of boards. The bottom frame is fixed at a distance of 500 mm from the ground. The distance between the tiers is 15–30 cm. At a distance of 20 cm from the side posts, the frame is fixed by vertical guides made of 50 × 50 mm bars.
For the manufacture of feeders, it is necessary to prepare a blank for the bottom of plywood with a size of 200 × 600 mm. Each tier requires 2 blanks. Next, the plywood is attached to the bottom of the cage close to the side posts. After that, the side walls are cladding.
Plywood is also used to sew the inner wall of the trough, but the size of the cloth should be 10-15 mm less. The gap between the wall and the bottom is necessary for the free settling of the grain as it is consumed.
The V-shape of the trough is easy to manufacture and does not take up free space inside the cage
There are two approaches to making the bottom. In the first case, the bottom is made of 30 × 50 mm strips, which are fixed with a step of 3-5 mm. In the second, the bottom is made of plywood and mesh, as described in the technology above.
In the center of each tier, V-posts of the hay feeder are mounted. For this, 8 blanks are prepared, which are then fixed on self-tapping screws at a convenient angle. The walls of the trough are covered with a mesh with a mesh size of 20 × 20 mm.
The doors are made from 40 × 40 mm bars. This will require measuring the distance between the grain feeders. In our case, it is equal to 100 cm. Next, 4 blanks with a length of 100 cm and 4 blanks with a length of 60 cm are taken. Then two short blanks are stacked between the long ones. The resulting frame is fastened with self-tapping screws 70 mm long.
An example of fastening a feeder with grain to a door in a cage
To hang the door, you will need to fix two hinges on the bottom edge. After that, the door is carefully placed in the opening, and the hinges are screwed to the horizontal guide. A steel latch or bolt is used as a lock.
For the manufacture of pallets, galvanized sheet is used. For this, a canvas with a size of 144 × 64 mm is prepared. The edges of the sheet are bent to a height of 1.5–2 cm along the perimeter of the sheet. Pallets are placed under each tier. Preliminarily, supports of 50 × 50 mm bars are attached to the frame posts.

At the end, the rough surface of the roof is mounted. To do this, the edged board is fixed in increments of 5–7 cm. A galvanized sheet or old slate is laid on top of the board.

How to build a portable cage

Usually a portable cage is a single-tier structure made of wood. In some cases, the cage can be used as a daytime only option when the structure has no bottom. For example, we will give the technology of manufacturing a single-tier portable cage with a mother liquor. It can be used both as a stationary enclosure and as a mobile cage that can be taken outside as soon as it gets warm.

The process of building a mobile cell with a mother liquor consists of the following stages:

To make a cage, you will need to prepare 2 blanks with a length of 110 cm and 2 blanks with a length of 130 cm. You can also use smaller sizes. The main thing is that the distance from the ground to the bottom of the cage is at least 50 cm.
The resulting blanks are fastened together using a horizontal guide, the length of which is 60–70 cm. The guide is fixed at a distance of 50–60 cm from the ground level.
The frame for the cage can be assembled both from edged boards with a thickness of 3 mm, and from bars of 50 × 50 mm
To assemble the side posts into a single frame, you will need to saw off 2 boards 140–160 cm long. Again, any option is possible. The main thing is that each section has at least 60 cm in length.
One of the prepared boards is laid on a horizontal lintel between the posts and fixed on self-tapping screws 50 mm long. The second board is attached to the back of the frame so that its top edge coincides in height with the first board.
The back wall of the assembled frame is hemmed with plywood or edged board... For the manufacture of the bottom in the uterine sections, it is necessary to prepare blanks of plywood with a size of 30 × 60 cm. The canvases are stacked close to the vertical side posts and are attached to self-tapping screws 30 mm long.
If it is planned to insulate the cage, then it is better to cover it from the inside.
Next, the side walls of the frame are hemmed. To strengthen the structure, vertical guides are prepared with a length equal to the height of the cage along the front wall. The guides are attached immediately behind the floor of the mother liquor.
For filing inner wall The mother liquor uses a plywood sheet, in which the hole is cut with a jigsaw. The canvas is attached from the side of the mother liquor on self-tapping screws.
A piece of 30 × 30 mm 50 cm long is attached to the hemmed side wall of the frame. A 30 × 60 cm plywood sheet is laid on it. Self-tapping screws with a length of 30 mm are used to fasten the plywood.
In the middle of the cage, a spacer made of a 30 × 100 mm board is mounted. At the top of the cage, two spacers are also mounted at a distance of 10 cm from the center. Between the spacers, workpieces from a 30 × 30 mm edged bar are fixed. Then the space between the bars is covered with a mesh.
The rest of the cage floor is also covered with a 20x20 mm galvanized mesh. In the upper part of the frame, a plank 140 cm long is mounted between the two upper posts. The open front part of the hay feeder is hemmed with a plank of 30 × 100 mm.
For the manufacture of doors to the mother liquor, a plywood sheet is used, in the upper part of which a small window is sawn. For the manufacture of doors to the main part of the cage, bars of the corresponding section are used, which are fastened into a frame.
A ready-made version of a portable single-tier cage with two queen cells
The door to the mother cell and the cage is covered with a net from the inside. After that, two galvanized hinges are attached to them. At the end, the doors are fixed on the vertical posts of the frame.
The roof is sutured with moisture resistant plywood. The plywood sheet should protrude 10-15 cm beyond the frame. Self-tapping screws 50 mm long are used for fastening.

If necessary, the queen cell in the cage can be made removable. To do this, you will need to make a frame of the mother liquor from 30 × 30 mm bars of any convenient size. Then the frame is sheathed with plywood. The resulting box can be placed directly in the cage shortly before the round.

Cage for young animals

Rabbit cages can be either shared or single. The first option is most often used, since it is easier to manufacture. When designing, it should be borne in mind that the size of the total cage directly depends on the intended offspring.

Any technology that has been described above can be used to make the cage. For example, the most successful option for a small farm would be a single-tier structure with two sections.

To make it, you will need to assemble frame frames from an edged bar, which are then fixed on vertical racks from the board. In contrast to the frames that are used for assembling cages for adult rabbits, their size is slightly larger. As a rule, the size of one section is at least 120 × 60 cm. Ideally, the size of the section is 150 × 100 cm.

When designing cages for young animals, it should be borne in mind that one individual should have at least 0.15 square meter of area

The further assembly process is similar to the options described earlier: the feeder is installed in the middle of the structure, the floor is hemmed or covered, the side and rear walls are sheathed. After that, the doors are assembled and hung. Finally, a board or plywood roof is mounted.

Features of the winter keeping of rabbits

Rabbits, unlike poultry, tolerate subzero temperatures quite easily, however, they need to provide comfortable conditions to prevent frostbite and colds. At proper insulation the cage can not be transferred to the utility room even at a temperature of -20 o C.

When insulating, heat-insulating material is laid between the walls of the cage

with constant exposure to low temperatures in rabbits, fertility decreases, and reproductive functions also deteriorate. To reduce the effects of cold, it will be necessary to carry out a full-fledged insulation of the cells. For this, modern heat insulators with a thickness of 3 cm or more are used, which fit into the space between the walls of the cage;
if there are no extra funds, then natural materials that can be prepared in the summer are suitable as insulation. These include: moss, foliage of trees and shrubs, needles, thin branches. The material collected in sufficient quantity should be thoroughly dried in the shade. A dry heat insulator, according to a similar principle, is laid between the walls of the cage;
in each separate section of the cage, a compartment must be provided, fenced off from the main part. It is made according to the box principle, when the frame is sheathed with a board or plywood. To enter the compartment, a cut is used in one of the walls;
to avoid a decrease in reproductive functions, a lamp with artificial lighting should be provided in each cage. This will allow to achieve an increase in daylight hours, which will have a beneficial effect on the fertility and activity of the animal. If necessary, a heating cable is laid into the cage, which is fed to the back wall or mother liquor;
feeding rabbits in winter period should be high in calories with a high content of concentrated and roughage. The main sources of vitamins and minerals are carrots and beets. It is allowed to feed rabbits with boiled potatoes.

The process of making cells is simple and will not cause any particular difficulties even for people who have little use of a hacksaw or screwdriver. General principle assemblies are easy to understand with just a couple of instructions. The main thing is to correctly calculate the size and draw up a drawing of the cell - this will help to avoid most of the mistakes that beginners have.

Subsistence farming has always been beneficial. You can keep chickens, pigs, and goats, but rabbits have always been especially popular, since they are unpretentious and do not require special food. But they definitely need special cages for rabbits, it is not customary to keep these animals in the barn.

Cell sizes

Before building rabbit cages, you need to find a blueprint that you will be working on. On the Internet, you can find a ready-made one or draw a drawing yourself. To do this, you need to know the size of the rabbit cages. Novice rabbit breeders should know that one cage is not enough for them to breed these animals. We need several houses for rabbits, at least three.

For adult rabbits

Two adult rabbits will fit in a two-section house. Its minimum dimensions are: length - 140 cm (preferably 210-240 cm), width - 60-70 cm, height - 50-70 cm. Between the two compartments there is a feeder for grass and hay. A rabbit house can be made in two floors, which will help save space.

House of two sections for adult rabbits

Cage for young animals

In cages for rabbits, namely for young animals, rabbits are kept in groups. Making a cage is simple: the minimum size of a dwelling for young animals: 200-300 cm per 100 cm, height - 35-60 cm. One young animal must have at least 0.12 square meters area. Sometimes separate cages are not made for young animals, but kept in ordinary cages, for adults, calculating the number of individuals according to the area they need.

House for a rabbit with a litter

A house for rabbits with children, for breeding, consists of a stern and a mother part, which are separated by a partition. There is a hole in it. It should be located just above the floor (10-15 cm) so that the rabbits cannot get out of the nest. Houses for rabbits (mother house) have dimensions of 0.4 by 0.4 m and a height of 20 cm. It is placed in the mother compartment just before the roundabout. Here is a rough drawing of a cage with a mother liquor.

Drawing of a cell with a mother liquor

For giant rabbits

The size of the cage also depends on the size of the giant rabbits. If you purchased giants, they will be cramped in standard enclosures, you need large houses. For breeding giant rabbits, you need a dwelling 0.75 m wide, 0.55 m high, and 1.7 m long. This is the minimum, it would be good to make it larger.

Cage making rules

If you decide to build your own cages for rabbits with your own hands, you need to know some rules so that after a few months you do not have to make a new one.

Rabbits are rodents, so for those who want to keep their cages for rabbits, it is better to protect all parts of the wood frame that are located inside the cage by using metal. It only takes a few hours, but the cage for rabbits will then last 10 years longer.
You cannot use an antiseptic. Pets can be poisoned.
The roof must not be damaged by moisture. For her, it is better to use slate. If your rabbits will live outdoors, don't make a metal roof. Under the influence of the sun, it becomes hot, and the animals will be uncomfortable in this stuffy space.
For the frame of rabbit houses, a bar (50x50 mm) is used. Can also be made of metal. For sheathing, a Rabitz mesh is suitable, the cells of which are 25x25 mm. The mesh is needed for the facade, for the sidewalls of houses and doors. The back part is always made deaf, because drafts are harmful to them.
In order to build a floor, take a grid with cells of 25x25 mm or 10x25. Because of this, the feces do not accumulate inside the cage, but are collected in a special bunker or roll down an incline to the ground. You will not see a solid floor in a rabbitry.

When building a rabbit cage, some rules must be followed.

Rabbits have very caustic urine, which is absorbed into the solid floor and causes the wood to rot. If not a mesh, then the floor can be covered with bars, between which there are gaps of 0.5 - 1 cm. Experienced rabbit breeders advise to lay a small sheet of plywood on the floor. Then the rabbits will not have pododermatitis. But it must be constantly removed and washed, dried.

How to build a rabbit cage

If you want to build correctly with your own hands, then step-by-step instructions will help you. This is the simplest cage that can only be kept indoors. According to this instruction, it is possible to make cages for rabbits and for the street, but use OSB.

The drawing can be made by yourself, focusing on the size of the cage for rabbits: size 1.5 by 0.7 m and height 0.7 m.But it is advisable to make paired cages for rabbits, which saves material, therefore the frame is taken as a basis: 3 m by 0.7 m, with a height of 1.2 m in front, and 1 m in the back. It is not difficult to make a drawing of such a cage.

How to make a do-it-yourself rabbit cage? Here's a step-by-step guide. Prepare all the necessary materials:

plywood, 2 sheets (* 1.5 by 1.5 m), 10 mm thick;
bars, 10 pieces: length 3 m, 30 * 50 mm;
metal mesh with cells 15 mm, 3 m;
self-tapping screws 30 and 70 mm, 2 kg;
tools for work.

Frame fabrication. On solid smooth surface we assemble a frame measuring 3 m by 0.7 m and a height of 1.2 in front and 1 m behind the structure. The frame should be on legs.

We attach the mesh to the floor of the future cage, it may not reach the edges of the cage, because there will be a queen cell. The floor of the mother liquor is solid.

We make the back wall: cut it to size and attach it to self-tapping screws over the entire area. Plywood sheets fix at the edges of the cage, where there is no mesh - these are future mother cells.

Start working on queen cells. To do this, attach a bar located vertically, and screw a wall to it, make a hole in it according to the rules. Bars are attached to the walls of the mother liquor, and the lid of the mother liquor is fixed on them.

Rabbit cage: making queen cells

Making a feeder: You need to make a feeding device. In the middle of the cage we attach a vertical bar, two feeders 7 cm high and 30 cm wide are attached to it. Two bars are attached at a distance of 20 cm above the feeder, these are guides. From plywood, you need to make a frame for the feed, a special device, the top of which fits between the guides, and the bottom sits directly into the feeder.

Rabbit cage: making a feeder

Rabbit cage: trough mounted on a frame

Next to the main feeder, a hay feeder is installed, which is made of steel wire.

Rabbit cage: hay feeder

We sheathe the free space with plywood, install a roof with an overlap of 5 cm in front and 10 cm on each side and back. There should be a hole in the middle, into which the feed will be laid. It is better to install a lid on top so that rodents do not fall into it. It remains only to install the doors 30 by 50 cm. To make them, you need a mesh. The cage is ready.

If you do not like this scheme for making a cage for rabbits with your own hands, there is a detailed video instruction. There is a step by step explanation. True, the drawing will have to be done independently.

Many people, regardless of age, want to take care of someone. But if everything is clear with adults, then for children, care is most often expressed in the desire to have a pet. Traditionally, babies ask for cats or dogs, but not all parents agree to this.

An excellent option for a pet will be a decorative rabbit, whose cuteness and unpretentiousness in care can bribe at times. And in order to significantly save on the purchase of everything necessary for keeping the animal at home, we bring to your attention detailed instructions to create a cage for a rabbit with your own hands.

General requirements for cages for decorative rabbits

It doesn't matter if you buy a ready-made cage in the store or are going to show your talents as a jack of all trades and assemble a home for a rabbit with your own hands. In any case, you should be aware of the requirements that are put forward in both cases.

So, the requirements for rabbit houses boil down to the following list:

One of the main rules is that the floor in the cage should not be lattice. Decorative rabbits do not have pads on their paws, so the pets will easily fall through the bars and fall into the lower tray that serves as a toilet. To ensure comfort in the case of a slatted floor, you will need to cover the rug or lay boards to make it easier for the rabbit to move around the cage. But it is better to immediately choose a cage with the correct gender.
When creating a cage or buying it, you need to pay attention to the material from which it is made. An important parameter of the cage is its strength, because rabbits gnaw on everything and can easily bite into plastic twigs.
All surfaces in the rabbit's home must be environmentally friendly. So, it is unacceptable to cover the cage with varnish or paint, because these are chemicals that can provoke poisoning in pets who are very fond of chewing on something.
Be sure to use a floor mat to prevent inflammation on the hind legs of rabbits, which are more sensitive to hard surfaces. The floor softener can be sawdust or shavings torn into small pieces of paper or a rug. If you use sawdust, then the cage must be equipped with sills along the side walls to prevent the substrate from spilling out.

Important!Newspapers should not be used as bedding, as lead is added to the ink, which is a toxic substance, and even a small dose of it chemical element enough to lead to irreparable consequences. It is also not recommended to use carpet for bedding, which also contains harmful substances.

What is better to make

Let us dwell in more detail on those materials that are preferable to use when creating a cell with our own hands, and consider their positive and possible negative sides.

Floor

Best for flooring a sheet of ordinary plywood or chipboard is suitable. If you want to make your pet's home as environmentally friendly as possible, then you should use a solid board (not glued, since the adhesive material is often toxic).

Metal nets or rods as a floor covering, as already mentioned, cannot be used - your pet simply will not be able to move on them. It is recommended to sprinkle a layer of sawdust on top of the wooden floor, which will become an excellent natural and environmentally friendly substrate for bedding.

So, there are several options. building materials suitable for cage flooring: wooden board, plywood, chipboard or OSB, plexiglass, plastic.

Solid wood plank has a number of advantages over other materials, namely:

strength and durability;
environmental Safety;
non-slip coating;
pleasant appearance(which is important when the cage is in your home).

Among the disadvantages of the board can be distinguished:

the need for additional machining to remove burrs, burrs and other irregularities;
in the absence of varnishing (and this cannot be done to ensure the safety of rabbits), the tree will still be traumatic, because driving a splinter on such a floor is as easy as shelling pears.

Otherwise, a solid wood board will be fine natural material for the cage floor.

Did you know? Decorative rabbits are not as simple as they seem. The growth rate of teeth in these pets can amaze anyone - in a year, the front incisors grow by 10 cm (and sometimes even more). Therefore, rabbits constantly need solid food and special sharpening toys that help them maintain their teeth in normal condition and normal size.

Particleboard or OSB will be alternative materials for flooring. They have about the same positive sides, in addition to environmental safety, because these building materials contain chemical adhesives, which pushes chipboard and OSB to second place.

Plexiglass is also a very interesting and relatively inexpensive material. But its slippery coating will not combine well with the paws of fluffy animals, and therefore it is better not to use such material for the floor of the cage. It may work for walls or ceilings, but not for floors.

Plastic has excellent characteristics in use, but it cannot be classified as an environmentally friendly material, since it is all a product of chemical processing. Although plastic has no equal in care - it is very easy to clean, and you will not have to remove burrs from the tender paws of rabbits.

Walls

If we talk about the material that is best suited for walls, then wooden blocks will be the best solution. They will serve as a good, strong and reliable frame. And from the inside they can be closed metal mesh, which is sold in hardware stores. Such a net will perform a restraining function so that the pet cannot freely walk around the apartment, and also provide ventilation, which is also very important for small fur-bearing animals.

Another option for the walls is plexiglass, which we talked about earlier, but you will have to drill a lot of ventilation holes in it, and this will add extra work. Therefore, in choosing the optimal, safe and durable material for the walls, we recommend environmentally friendly solid wooden beams to which a metal mesh is attached.

How to make a cage with your own hands

Now let's figure out all the intricacies of assembling a cage for decorative rabbits with our own hands.

Dimensions (edit)

The first thing to start with is to understand for yourself what size of the cage you would like to make, because it is not at all necessary to be limited to a miniature space where the pet will be cramped and uninteresting. A house for your pet should meet all the needs of these small but nimble balls of wool. Sizes are considered standard at least 1 m in length and about 45-60 cm in width. But in such dimensions, the rabbit will be cramped, and therefore, he will have to leave his cage for 3-4 hours every day to walk around the apartment and warm up.
In any case, be guided by the sizes that you agree to allocate for your pet, as well as your own imagination. The house does not have to be large in size on the floor. It can be vertical and consist of several "floors" for fun and movement of the rabbit.

Tools and materials

For the successful installation of a cage for a decorative rabbit at home, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools. So, in the number necessary tools you can include:

a hammer;
nails;
saw;
self-tapping screws;
scissors for cutting metal.

And from building materials you should prepare:

sheets of plywood, chipboard or other material of your choice;
wooden blocks;
metal mesh;
door hinges;
soft floor covering.

Step-by-step instruction

Building a cage for a decorative rabbit includes 8 main stages:

The first step is to create a drawing according to which you will assemble the cage. You can also use a ready-made drawing.
Now you need to tackle the floor, on the basis of which the entire house will be erected further. To make a floor, take a sheet of plywood, OSB or chipboard (or boards to size) and cut out a rectangle of the desired size from it. The main requirement for the floor is strength and stability so that it can withstand the weight of the animal and does not become the culprit for falling and bruising your pet.
The next stage is to equip the floor with a sheet of tin, thanks to which it will be much more convenient to clean the cage. Cut a sheet of tin with a thickness of 0.2 mm to the size of the floor.
Next, proceed with the assembly and installation of the walls of the house. Three of them can be made deaf from the same material that was chosen for the floor. It is impossible to make all four walls blank, since the house must have lighting and ventilation.
Assemble the front wall from wooden slats with a cross section of 2 × 2 or 1.5 × 1.5 cm. Insert a metal mesh between the bars. You can do it yourself from wire. In the lower part of such a wall, provide a board made of cardboard or the material from which the floor is made. The sidewall will prevent the floor substrate from spilling out.
Connect the walls to each other, then attach the entire structure to the floor using self-tapping screws.

Important!Correctly select the length of the self-tapping screws, according to the thickness of the selected tree. Self-tapping screws should not protrude beyond the wood, so as not to injure the animal. If you made a mistake with the length of the screw, use a file to grind off the sharp edge.

The front or side wall must have an openable door. It is assembled from wooden blocks, the space between which is filled with the same metal mesh. Such a door is hung on metal hinges using self-tapping screws.
To organize the second tier, a sheet of plywood of such a size should be attached to the walls on self-tapping screws so that it is 15–20 cm shorter than one of the lateral sides. This is necessary so that the rabbit can freely move from tier to tier. A ladder should lead there, which is also easy to make from slats and floor material: at intervals of 5 cm, use a hammer to hammer wooden slats onto a rectangle made of plywood, chipboard or other material.

How to set up a rabbit cage inside

But with a cage alone, you will not be able to provide your pet with the proper comfort. He also needs to be provided with various attributes: a drinker, a feeder and a secluded place where he can hide or sleep. The presence of a secluded place is very important for a pet, especially in the first months of his life in a new place, because he will need to get used to a new place and new unfamiliar creatures next to him.

As for the feeders and drinkers, they must be made of heavy material. Another option would be to attach the cookware to the floor. Such precautions are necessary due to the fact that rabbits are very playful and active creatures, and therefore during the game they can overturn or toss objects.
It is best to use wood shavings or sawdust as a flooring substrate. Any dense material (tin, cardboard, rug, etc.) should be laid on top of the main floor. This will allow you to clean behind the long-eared in a more convenient manner.

Did you know?When the time comes for the rabbit to lamb, she begins to equip a nest for her children. Do not be surprised if your pet is actively tearing its fur in the chest or abdomen. This is how the maternal instinct manifests itself.- the female lines the nest with her down so that the babies are warm and comfortable.

Of course, do not forget about. These can be either purchased or homemade items. For example, you can buy a ball woven from branches or straw, which will not only be a good toy to drive, toss or roll on the floor, but also an excellent tooth sharpener. You can weave a toy with your own hands, if you have the time and desire.

Additional equipment of the cage with a kind of nest from a cardboard box will be needed if you are breeding rabbits. The box should be slightly larger than the rabbit itself.

How to disinfect rabbit cells at home

The issue of disinfection is one of the most important, because your pet must live in a clean and safe environment. Therefore, the procedure for disinfection and general cleaning in a rabbit cage should become routine for you.

Before carrying out the disinfection itself, you should pay attention to the overall cleanliness of the house. You need to clean the long-eared cage of accumulated droppings, dirt, dust, litter or other debris. All surfaces in the cage must be perfectly cleaned prior to the disinfection procedure.

To do general cleaning in the rabbit's dwelling, you will need some auxiliary equipment:

brush (an old toothbrush will do);
broom;
a shovel or scraper for cleaning waste products;
a bucket, box or other container for collecting garbage;
reservoir for spraying the substance;
the drug itself.

Among the most popular and effective ones are:

Glutex;
5% iodine solution for alcohol;
Virkon;
Ecocide S.

But folk methods proven by many breeders will be no less effective, including:

burnt lime treatment;
burning by fire;
hot lye cleaning;
flushing with whiteness solution.

The issue of cohabitation of a person and a rabbit is solved very simply by equipping a special cage for a pet. In order not to spend a lot of money on a house from the store, you can easily equip yourself a no worse dwelling for a rabbit, taking into account the tips given in this article. With the help of step-by-step instructions for creating a cage for decorative rabbits at home, you can quickly and easily make a completely comfortable house for your pet.

Video: DIY 2-storey rabbit cage. Step-by-step instruction

Was this helpful?

Thank you for your opinion!

Write in the comments which questions you did not receive an answer to, we will definitely respond!

14 once already
helped

Did you like the article? Share it

Print article