Requirements for wiring in the bath. Bath wiring

Electric installation work in the bathhouse, sauna due to high temperature and humidity has a number of features. It is vital to know and follow them when working with an electrician. How to prepare a project, choose tools and materials, lead in a cable and do internal wiring with your own hands? You will find the answers to these questions below.

Key safety requirements for wiring

Increased safety requirements are imposed on the electrification of such premises as saunas or baths, which are traditionally loved in our country. This is due to the higher air humidity (and, as a consequence, the formation of condensation), the high temperature in the steam room and the wash compartment. You need to take into account the material of the walls. Most often it is a tree, a material with an increased fire hazard.

Key requirements for the wiring device:

The introductory panel must be located in the place most protected from temperature extremes (dressing room, vestibule, recreation room), have a separate RCD or difavtomat (triggering with a leakage current< 0,05 Ам), соответствовать требованиям IP 44.
For a sauna or bath, a high-quality separate grounding (PE-conductor) is necessary, the capacity of which will be sufficient for all current consumers. If there is an electric boiler, it must be grounded separately.
One-piece lines from the connection point to the shield. It is advisable to exclude any junction boxes.
Best of all, if the equipment has a degree of protection from IP55 and higher, the cables have 3 cores with obligatory grounding and insulation that can withstand temperatures from -40 to +130 ° C.
The cable is laid using metal hoses or fireproof corrugation. For insulation, only non-flammable or self-extinguishing materials are used.
It is forbidden to use metal screws, self-tapping screws, etc. to fasten the wiring elements. Only the use of dielectrics is allowed.

The rules for lighting baths / steam rooms / saunas are detailed in the PUE (rules for electrical installations). This is a basic regulatory document that spells out the requirements for a variety of electrical equipment.

Do not be lazy to carefully study the requirements of the provisions of the PUE before starting work.

Preparatory stage: we draw up a project, calculate the cross-section of cables

Training schematic diagram electrical wiring is the task of an experienced specialist who knows the nuances of designing electrical circuits in rooms with specific conditions. Any building has individual characteristics, and the wiring device in a particular case is determined by the number of consumers and their total capacity.

When starting work on a project, you need to decide which cable to lead to the structure, with one or three phases. This determines the configuration of the finished circuit. But the general approaches to drafting the project remain.

Possible version of the wiring diagram for a bath or sauna

When the diagram of the future wiring for the sauna or bath is prepared, it's time to get down to the calculations. You will need to calculate the cross-section of the wires, decide on technical characteristics RCDs, machines and other elements of the electrical circuit. In the case when the circuit assumes the presence of high-power electrical appliances, it is advisable to use a three-phase connection. It is designed for a significantly higher load (up to 42 kW) than a single-phase line supplied by an SIP cable (up to 14 kW).

Let's start with the main thing - calculating the cross-section of the wire supplied to the electrical panel (electricity will be supplied to the building through it). First, you need to calculate the total power consumption of the devices installed in the bath, according to the circuit diagram. The power consumption value is indicated on each electrical device or in the instructions for it. Having calculated the total power of electricity consumers, we get an approximate load on the cable going to the bath from the shield. We divide the resulting number by the mains voltage indicator and get the current strength (measured in amperes, A). The required cable section depends on this parameter, which is selected as follows:

16 A = 1.5 mm2;
25 A = 2.5 mm2;
32 A = 4 mm2;
40 A = 6 mm2.

The parameters are suitable for all types of copper wires.

To the calculated cross-sectional area, you need to add a margin of 25% - 30%. And also in calculations, the total power of the devices is also preferable to take a little more, taking into account the devices that are rarely included in the network.

Choosing wires and electrical appliances for interior work

When choosing wires for internal wiring, keep in mind that their conductors must be exclusively copper. Do not use wires with aluminum cores.

The size of the cable cross-section for internal wiring branches (up to lamps, switches, electrical outlets, etc.) is calculated in the same way as the lead-in cable.

The structure of the heat-resistant cable

When choosing automatic switches, it is also necessary to determine their power indicators. The basic rule: the main machine should have the greatest power, and for devices that disconnect individual wiring branches, it is significantly less.

To calculate the threshold value for the operation of the machine, use the same formula as for calculating the cross-section of the wires - you need to determine the current in the circuit or in its separate section (for machines that turn off part of the devices). For example, if the total current in the circuit is 20A, then the operation threshold of the main machine needs at least 25 A, and even better - 32 A. The operation threshold of the switches for individual branches is calculated on the basis of the current that the least powerful device consumes.

A mandatory element of wiring in a sauna or bath room, according to the PUE, is a residual current device or RCD. According to the standards, you need to choose an RCD that operates at a current of 10-16 mA. In reality, with such parameters, the device often triggers falsely, so most choose an RCD with a response threshold of 25-30 mA. But for maximum safety, we recommend adhering to the rules established in the PUE.

RCD or difavtomat - an obligatory part of the wiring in the bathhouse and sauna

Select cables and fittings for internal wiring based on their ability to cope with high temperatures and humidity. The requirements for wiring in the steam room and the washing room are especially strict. It is recommended to use only the following types of wires here:

PVC;
PRKA;
PRKS;
RCGM;
PMTK;
OLFLEX HEAT 250.

In other rooms, such as a rest room, vestibule or dressing room, it is allowed to use wires of the NYM or VVGng-LS varieties.

It is forbidden to use PUNP wires due to possible significant deviations in the thickness of the core.

When choosing luminaires, lamps, sockets, it is important to take into account their safety class (IP-44 / IP-65) and the presence of rubber-based seals. Choose lighting fixtures with a base made of corrosion-resistant materials and covered with heat-resistant glass on the outside. The outlets must be protected against moisture and splashes (covers).

It is forbidden to install fluorescent lamps and lamps with plastic protection in the bath.

A good choice for steam rooms and washing rooms is lighting using modern fiber optics that are resistant to moisture and high temperatures. For premises such as a recreation room and the same washing room, LED lamps are suitable. They consume little energy and provide good illumination. For a steam room, diode lamps are not suitable.

How to supply electricity to the bath: underground or by air?

The best option is to supply electricity via a separate cable directly from the main electrical panel. This can be done in one of the following ways:

by air - inexpensive and fast.
underground - requires a significant investment of time and money.

The chosen method must be reflected in the design of the structure. Choosing the "air" method, you need to strictly adhere to the norms for the location of the cable in height and not only:

The cable must not be located at least 6 meters from the carriageway.
The minimum distance from the pedestrian part to the cable is 3.5 meters.
The distance between the supports is not more than 25 meters.
The cable must enter the building at a height of at least 2.75 meters.

With the "air" method, a self-insulating power wire (SIP 4) is used, where there is no supporting cable. In SIP-cable, the cross-section of aluminum conductors is at least 16 mm 2. The number of cores depends on the selected input type: single-phase for 2 cores or three-phase for 4 cores. The main problem of the SIP cable is its low plasticity, which makes it difficult to insert the wire into the circuit breaker.

The self-supporting insulated wire cable is inserted inside the room through a metal sleeve. Do not forget that wires with aluminum conductors cannot be used inside the bath.

You can supply electricity to the bath by air

For the underground method, an expensive but very durable cable of the VBbShv brand is used (the second name is "cable with armor" because of the steel protection between the polymer sheaths). He immediately has 4 copper conductors and a cross section of 10 mm 2.

Step-by-step instruction on underground laying cable to the bath / sauna building:

Dig a trench at least 0.7 m deep and pour 10 cm of sand into it.
Lay the wires on the sand in a wave-like manner and cover them with another 10 cm layer of sand.
Backfill with 0.2 m thick soil, on which to lay the warning grid.
The cable is inserted into the room through a steel sleeve.
Before connecting to the shield, the wire is freed from the protective sheaths. Remember to take care of grounding and lightning protection.

It is possible to supply electricity to the bath using an underground method.

Do-it-yourself installation of internal wiring in the bath and sauna + diagram

Many can handle the installation of wiring inside a bath or sauna. The main thing is to take into account everything to the smallest detail and comply with the requirements prescribed in the PUE.

The main stages of wiring installation in the bath:

Installation of the shield;
Wiring from the flap;
Connection of lamps;
Connecting sockets.

Key requirements for the installation of an electrical panel:

Place the shield as close to the exit as possible, in a place with good ventilation, free access and bright lighting.
Choose a device with a housing made of reliable material and a high level of protection against moisture penetration.
The minimum distance from the floor surface to the top of the device is 1.4 m-1.8 m.

The shield must be protected from moisture and located in an easily accessible place

The switchboard includes:

introductory machine;
outgoing machines.

For single-phase connection, the main cable contains at least 3 cores. In accordance with the requirements of GOST, the phase conductor is gray (it can also be brown or white) and is placed on the upper terminal of the main circuit breaker. From the lower terminal, it moves with jumpers to the upper terminals of the outgoing switches. It can be moved there with the spreading discs. The zero core of blue or light blue is placed on the zero block. The third vein of yellow-green color, protective, is directed to the protective block. For wires going to consumers, the phase conductors are connected to the lower contacts of the outgoing circuit breakers. The lead-in cable and wires coming from the shield are led out through the corrugated pipe.

Sign the machines to quickly disconnect the desired branch if needed and facilitate future repairs. And also inside it is worth placing a visual wiring diagram.

When routing the electrical cable from the shield, adhere to the following rules:

Try to route the outgoing wire in one piece.
If the walls are wooden, it is better to mount open wiring.
Cannot be used as a sheath of PVC pipes, metal pipes.
The wires are mounted only vertically and horizontally. Twisting and kinking are unacceptable.
Electrical switches and sockets should be located in the dressing room, vestibule or recreation room. Their installation in the steam room and washing section is not permitted.
The cores of the cables are connected by welding or soldering.
Do not lay wires over the stove.

V wooden bath you can make open wiring

It is forbidden to place switches and electrical outlets in the washing compartment and steam room, do not forget about this.

Most commonly used single-phase connection.

As for the connection of lamps, it is preferable to place them on the walls, 20 cm below the ceiling, but not on the ceiling itself (where the maximum temperature is).

Installation of internal wiring and sockets. Video

After completing the work with the wiring, you need to check the quality of its work, the serviceability of grounding, etc. It is best to entrust this to the specialists of energy supervision or the fire service.

The most common mistakes when installing electrical wiring

The most common mistakes when installing an electrician in bath rooms and saunas are associated with non-compliance with the requirements of the PUE or incorrect calculations. Basically, problems arise in the following situations:

The type of wire and the size of its cross-section are incorrectly selected.
Insufficient insulation of electrical wiring or its poor quality.
Failure to comply with the safety requirements prescribed in the PUE during work.

Competent step-by-step installation of electrical wiring in the bath. Video

When deciding to install electrical wiring in a sauna or bath on their own, do not forget how important it is to do this work competently, observing safety rules, to be attentive to even the smallest details. Competent installation of electrics in a bath or sauna is a guarantee of safe rest and protection of the building from fire. Before starting work, study the PUE in the latest edition. Consider all possible risks, use a responsible approach to electrical installation, or entrust these concerns to professional electricians.

One not big, but important stage of construction simply cannot be avoided. It is necessary to supply electricity to the bathhouse, to make competent wiring inside the room in accordance with the established rules and to install points: sockets, switches and lighting fixtures, according to the diagram. About this and about how is the wiring done in the bath and a steam room with your own hands, you will learn from this article.

How to connect the bathhouse to electricity from home?

The bathhouse is built separately from the house and is connected to the switchboard with a separate cable, through its own machine and RCD. Most often, the power cable is laid underground, which has some advantages over the creation of an overhead line.

The number one advantage is that this type of gasket provides cable safety and eliminates its breakage in gusty or gusty winds.
Advantage number two is that invisible cable does not spoil the external aesthetic appearance of the surrounding landscape. The switchboard is most often installed at the entrance to the room, with outside, but indoor installation is also possible. Connected to this shield electrical outlets and lighting fixtures.

If the plans include the installation of additional electrical equipment - an electric stove (although who will install an electric stove in a frame version or a log house?), A steam generator, electric heating, then the total power must correspond not only to the wiring in the bath and steam room, but also to the main power cable itself.

A free-standing bath can be connected with a self-supporting insulated wire cable or aluminum wires without insulation, which are stretched between two buildings. It is better to choose a SIP cable so as not to pull over a section of wire without insulation. The self-supporting insulated wire system has its own system of fastening to the facades and a supporting steel core, which makes it possible to stretch the cable.

If the distance from the point of connection of the line is more than 25 meters, the installation of an intermediate post is required. The SIP cable has aluminum wires and cannot be inserted into wooden bath... To enter the bath, a power machine or a switch is installed on the facade, after which a cable with copper wires is connected and, using a metal sleeve, is introduced into the room.

Underground laying of electrical cable

This method of connecting the bath will require a significant amount of earthwork when digging a trench with a depth of 0.8 to 1.2 meters, from the connection point to the bath. The cable for underground installation can be laid directly in the ground or use a plastic sleeve from the pipe to better save the cable from damage.

For these purposes, it is better to use products with XLPE insulation, which has a guarantee of about 25 years. The cable can be connected to two panels from below, through the foundation along inner wall with its laying in a metal pipe. This type of connection is designed to protect the cable from possible mechanical damage and to comply with the requirements of the PUE.

Switchboard installation

The dimensions of the internal shield are determined by the number of used AB and RCDs that will be installed. The shield is placed at a height of 1.5 to 2 m from the floor next to the entrance to the bathhouse, in order to turn it on at the entrance. At the input, an RCD must be installed on all electrical wiring and an input automatic device, which must have a lower operating current than an automatic device in the house that protects the outgoing line. If a 25 A machine is installed in the house, a 20 A machine can be installed in the bath at the input. The RCD at the input protects the entire electrical wiring of the bath and is designed to protect the bath from fire and protect people from possible electric shock when it leaks.

Electrician in the bath: rules, wiring diagram

Next, we will consider two main issues that arise when installing an electrician in a bath. First, for example, consider the simplest working wiring diagram in the dressing room, with detailed description the whole process. Further important practical advice on the topic: do-it-yourself wiring in the bath.

The correct wiring diagram in the bath and its phased installation

If you are looking for information that will indicate where and how many sockets, switches, lamps you should install, then this is not quite the right approach to solving the issue.

Start dancing on what devices you will use and where they will be located. Determine the places for switches, lamps and start creating your wiring diagram in the bath... The functional placement of an electrician is when, when entering the room, the switch is by itself, turning on the TV is not associated with rearranging furniture, and the use of an outlet does not imply the adoption of a horizontal position. Further step-by-step actions:

Step one: Draw a wiring diagram

Getting started with a simple work electrical circuit for the dressing room. The minimum set of points consists of:

Switch (1 pc.);
Electrical sockets (2 pcs.);
Lamp (1 pc.);
Junction box (1 pc.);
Automatic switch (1 pc.).

The simplest wiring diagram for the dressing room, taking into account the distances and installation locations

In the photo: Designation of the circuit breaker in the diagram

In the photo: Designation of electric lamps in the diagram

In the photo: Designation of the switch in the diagram

In the photo: Designation of sockets in the diagram

In the photo: The layout of all nodes and points

Step two: We install cable channels (pencil cases) or corrugation (tubes) for wiring

All wires in case open wiring, must be protected by plastic cases or corrugated hoses... And this is really important!

I want to bring you real example from life. In a city apartment, children played ball in the hallway. The ball hit the wall, along which an insulated wire from the lamp went down and the wire turned into a fuse-cord. A white, luminous point began to move, devouring the insulation. I turned off the lamp, but it's too late, the process has already started. It is good that a cobweb or a "dusty rabbit" did not get in the way of the light and the light did not have time to hide in the wooden plinth and the process itself was controlled by adults, otherwise the fire could not have been avoided.

If you have chosen a corrugation, then all the wiring is passed through it in advance using an internal wire. When planning and calculating the volume of material, take it with a small (5-10%) margin. If you settled on cable channels - pencil cases (and I prefer this option more), then the wire can be laid directly when connecting the wiring. When choosing pencil cases, be guided by the dimensions of the wiring. It is impossible to take a small volume because the wire will not fit, and more than necessary, there is simply no point.

In the photo: cable channels of various sizes for wiring

In the photo: the wiring laid to the switch in the cable channel

Step three: We lay the wires in the cable channels

Having started the installation of wiring in the bath, you must of course be provided with the appropriate wires and cables. But how to choose a wire from the right material with the right cross-section? Having a professional project on hand, questions will not arise, but how to solve it if the circuit and the wiring itself are made independently?

A few simple rules will help you cope with this task:

We do not purchase aluminum wires. Why? Increased fragility, not the possibility of straight twisting with copper, lower throughput with an equal cross-section;
We use stranded wires: standardly two or three-core, when planning a grounding device;
For power points of household appliances from a junction box, use a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2;
For luminaires with a power of 0.1 to 2 kW, a wire with a cross section of even 0.5 mm 2 is sufficient;
When purchasing a wire, follow the descending priorities: material, cross-section, insulation, price.

table

the ratio of the cross-section of a stranded copper wire for use in a network with a voltage of 220V to the load power

Wire cross-section in mm	Power in kW	Current in A
0,5	2,4	11
0,75	3,3	15
1	3,7	17
1,5	5	23
2	5,7	26

Step four: We connect the wiring according to the wiring diagram

And so, the scheme is there, the cable channels are installed, the wiring is divorced, it remains to connect the previously purchased sockets, switches and lamps into one working circuit. In the process of connecting, I recommend using two methods: shoe and twisting method. In general, some count 5, seven or even 7! such methods, but those that I propose are the simplest, most reliable and not expensive.

Preparation and installation of the connection in the block

The first step is to remove some of the wire insulation that will be attached to the terminal. As soon as it is not removed! Teeth and a sharp knife are not very good a good option... It is clear about the teeth, but when using a knife, there is a possibility of damage to the conductive part of the wire. It is possible to use heating with a suitable device, or even better, to purchase an automatic stripper - a special tool for stripping insulation.

Wire stripping tools

You need to measure about 3 cm from the beginning of the wire and melt (or bite off with a stripper) part of the insulation. We pull out the conductive part, leaving 1 cm and then, twisting the wire, we get an ideal twist. After twisting, cut off the excess with pliers and seal the conductive part.

Preparing the wire for installation in the block

After that, we twist the bare conductive part for connection in the block and insert it under the washer into the socket of the block and tighten the screw. Carbolite terminal blocks are mounted in accordance with GOST 17557-88. Installation of wires with a cross section of up to 1.5 mm in such blocks does not absolutely cause any difficulties.

Installation of the wire in the block and installation in the junction box

Preparation and installation of a twist joint

It is possible to assemble the connections by twisting the wires. This option is cheaper, but not by much, so the choice is yours. Although after installation by the twisting method, everything will be hidden in the junction box and the chosen option will not affect the aesthetic side of the issue in any way. And regarding the reliability and efficiency of stranding as a connection method, we can say the following.

At the moment, this method of connection is a little disliked, assuming that it is morally outdated and damaged in some way, the more the construction market offers us many affordable, modern and technological solutions. But the fact remains: twisting is one of the most reliable types of installation for one simple reason. With a high-quality connection, the contact area of the elements to be connected is larger, this is when using other options! And this, in turn, provides confidence that overheating of the junction will not occur, which makes such a choice safer and more reliable.

How to make a high-quality twist?

We remove part of the insulating coating of the wires;
We make a kind of fan out of each wire;
We combine the obtained fans in one plane;
We make manual twisting of wires;
We make additional twisting with pliers;
We solder the resulting twist;
Remove the end of the resulting twist with a pair of wire cutters;
We insulate the connection with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

How to make a quality twist

Everything on this virtual installation of wiring in the bath according to the selected scheme is completed. But, however, in order not to deceive the expectations of individual readers, I post working proven wiring diagram in the bath... Everyone, on the basis of it, can make his own design, suitable for him, by removing or adding the necessary elements.

Bath electrician: important practical advice

In conclusion, I will give a few simple but important practical advice regarding the organization of electricians in the bath. Not significant points that relate to electrics DO NOT HAPPEN!

Power sockets connected to the switchboard with a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 VVG or NYM 3x2.5, lighting and a switch are connected with the same cable with a cross-section of 1.5 sq. mm.
Everything wall passages are carried out in a metal sleeve;
Cable is laid at a height of 10 cm from the ceiling, at the same distance distribution boxes;
Switches and distribution boxes installed from the side of relatively dry rooms;
Sockets in the steam room not installed, sockets with a degree of protection IP44 can be installed in the bathroom or washing room, for the protection of which a separate RCD and an automatic device are installed in the switchboard;
Light fixtures connected to the junction box with a 3x1.5 cable and when laying the cable under wood trim steam rooms or sinks must be inside a metal pipe;
In order not to be engaged in laying a cable in a pipe, lamps in the steam room can be installed in the corners, and connected from above through the attic in order to reduce the length of the cable that passes under the clapboard, and the cable must first be passed into a copper pipe, which is easier to mount and bend;
Do not try hide wiring under a wooden plinth, place the wires close to the floor together with sockets and extension cords. What if you accidentally drop a bucket of water, there will be fireworks! It may be necessary to additionally install an RCD. Remember children, pets, start worrying in advance;
Do not twist together aluminum and copper wire... This is an unreliable connection, it will oxidize over time and there will be no necessary contact, and with a high current there will also be heating, and there it is not far from the fire. Do not make such a connection even for a while, then you will forget, and everything that is temporary becomes permanent. Use pin connectors.
For greater safety, after each input of electrical wires, whether it be a bathhouse, an outbuilding or a house, it is advisable to put separate automatic fuse... This will facilitate further troubleshooting, provide better protection, and in the event of a short circuit, it will work faster;
If single phase wiring, then it is advisable, through your automatic fuse, to separate the wires for the sockets separately and through the other - the wires for the lighting. Do not stay in complete darkness, again, it is easier to find the cause of the malfunction yourself. If the electrical network is three-phase, then each phase must be evenly loaded with consumers. For example - put one phase on the sockets, the second for lighting, the third for household needs: a pump, a water heater, lighting a change house, etc. Overloading in the event of simultaneous switching on of electrical appliances is excluded.

Three words about connectors and why don't I like them?

Connectors are a separate topic, I am personally afraid to use them, this disease remained from the operation of the Volga car. When I turned on the dipped beam, smoke poured out from under the torpedo, this forced me to return from the dacha before dark, I even remember I had to exceed the speed so as not to catch fire. They passed the law - to drive with the headlights on, decided that they overlaid in full, could not stand it, took off the torpedo, cleaned the contact connection on the switch and soldered it. At a friend's - the torpedo on the nine burned out completely, he himself barely had time to jump out of the car, he was lucky! If copper wires are used, then it is better to twist them, solder them, wrap them with insulating tape. If you are sure of the quality of the connecting contacts, then it is easier with them.

Which circuit to put the light switch on?

Recently I made an important discovery for myself. I never thought about which circuit to put the light switch on - phase or zero? Do you know that yourself? At first I thought that it was safer on the zero wire, it won’t shake if the switch breaks. It turned out that phase-wise - safer... If a bulb holder is stuck in the chandelier, and the bulb itself remains in our hands, we extinguish the light and use pliers on a stepladder, not fearing that it will shake, calmly turn the cartridge out. If you come up in the reverse order, then in case of shaking, falling off the ladder, pushing off from the chandelier, is extremely inconvenient than sliding along the wall with a switch.

About lamps and dimmers in the bath

And more about the lamps. Now everyone is gradually abandoning incandescent lamps and move to energy-saving and rightly so, such lamps allow you to save electricity, last longer and heat up slightly. However, it should be borne in mind that some lighting control devices on the market, in particular dimmers (dimmers) and switches with diode backlighting, are not suitable for such lamps.

As for dimmers, you need to use special models for energy saving lamps, dimmers for conventional energy-saving lamps do not work due to the peculiarities of the latter. Switches with diode lighting can cause lamps to flicker when the lighting is off, again due to differences in the design of conventional and energy-saving lamps. If your lamp flickers when the light is off, then the switch may be to blame. You need to either turn off the backlight diode in the switch, or use a special switch, I think that such should exist.

This concludes the article.... It is clear that the number of letters, text and information presented will seem excessive to someone; for someone, on the contrary, something will not be enough. However, the purpose of this article was not to make you a ready-made professional electrician. The goal was to give an understanding of the whole process of organizing an electrician in a bath with their own hands, as well as to pay attention to individual important points its installation. I hope it worked out and the information will be useful to you ...

The electrical wiring in the bath is carried out according to special rules - in accordance with the requirements of the PUE, which are specially designed for wet rooms, like a bath. The main rules are as follows: all the accessories are located in the dressing room or the rest room, there are no sockets in the washing and steam rooms, and the shades for the lamps are set completely sealed - special for high humidity.

A modern bath is not only a pair of lamps, but a much more functional and complex system. Which, naturally, requires high-quality electrical supply. Those. in addition to the standard lighting in the steam room, today they are already equipped with:

Electric heater;
Warm electric floor;
Electrical meters for temperature and humidity;
Infrared heaters;
Electric kettle and hairdryer;
Mini fridge for beer;
Plasma TV;
SPA equipment;
Indoor lighting in the pool;
Water heater;
Washing machine;
Pumping station;
Heat gun for drying all rooms.

What is the danger of incorrect wiring in the bath? The point is that steam is an excellent conductor of electricity. Therefore, the sockets can only be installed in those rooms that are well protected from moisture - only there condensation will not penetrate the outlet and its conductive part. But plug sockets for the steam room are generally taboo.

The ideal option is to initially invite an intelligent, proven specialist who will carry out all the calculations and install all the equipment himself. If there is no such opportunity, you can figure everything out yourself, but it is important to fully study all the nuances. And then to invite a specialist at least for a control viewing, for which he will not take too much. The specialist needs to give an approximate plan for the placement of bath outlets, switches and lamps - and what devices will be installed where. And deduct in advance the planned total power of all equipment, what will happen - so the electrician will determine the required cross-section for the cables.

So, how to conduct electrical wiring in a bath - from theory to practice.

General provisions for correct electrification

So, how to make electrical wiring in the bath? Here's how: electricity is supplied to it from the main switchboard through a separate power line - and the bathhouse has a separate protective grounding circuit. Moreover, they carry out the wiring in the bath in those places where it will be least noticeable - but at a distance of at least one and a half meters from the batteries and pipes. And not in corners or opposite doors and aisles. And here there are several rules:

The supply voltage must be conducted through an RCD and AB, as well as a step-down transformer for lighting the steam room and washing room.
The best cable, with the help of which electrical wiring can be carried out in the bath, is, according to experienced bath attendants, the cable of the VVGngLS 3x2.5 brand. It is copper, in a special sheath that does not spread combustion.

The panel, general switch and junction boxes must be installed in the dressing room.
To pass the wires through the walls in the bath, you need to drill holes right in the center of the log and insert there steel pipe½ inch. The wiring itself in the bath can be done in metal, corrugated flexible and special plastic pipe... This will not light up even in the event of a fire in the wiring itself - it will only melt.

If we are talking about a wooden bath, then all the wiring should be exclusively open - but preferably, not along the baseboards, but through the attic. You need to do the connection of the wires by terminal - and nothing else. And in no case should they be twisted - all cables must only be whole. But it should definitely be avoided when arranging electrical wiring in the bath, because it is rubber and vinyl braid of wires. Corrugated wire of the H07RN-F brand is well suited for a bath.

Wiring diagram in the bath: safety is the main thing!

By the way, the fact that all devices and the shield should be located only in a room ideally protected from moisture is dictated not only by fire safety - in conditions of high humidity, all this quickly fails due to corrosion. Moreover, even plastic products - after all, inside them there are still metal parts. But as for the modern shower cabin, which is equipped with built-in water heating, you should not worry. Due to the fact that the manufacturer initially cares about protection, it can also be installed in the washing room.

As for the lamps, their body must be metal, and the shade must be made of glass. It is advisable to install them only on the walls, because all the heat goes to the ceiling, and the temperature there is not low.

So, the transformer to which the supply voltage must be connected must be rated for 220 volts and installed in an absolutely dry place. Only 12 volts can be passed through the wall to the steam room and sink - and there cannot be any sockets. Although it is officially allowed by the requirements of the PUE (for hazardous rooms, like a bathhouse) in the steam room and a voltage of 42 volts - when 36 volt bulbs are installed.

If it is planned to have a washing machine in the bath, then it will definitely be necessary to put it only in a dry room - as well as to make an outlet for it there. A separate wire should be made into the heating tank - this is important.

Around the bath itself, it is highly desirable to lay a ground loop, and in the dashboard - install a differential automatic or RCD leakage of no more than 30 mA. If for some reason all this is impossible to do in your steam room, then the T-220/12 must be installed in the dressing room flap.

Both the RCD and the machines should end up in a waterproof box.

If you need to install sensors to the electric heater, then only low-voltage ones, at a distance of 1 meter from the floor - and on the wall farthest from the heater. The control panel for them must be fixed unambiguously outside the steam room. The heater itself, by the way, is always installed without outlets - with a direct cable to the shield, which hangs outside the steam room.

Wires in the steam room and analysis of the main mistakes

And now about the thinnest thing - the most complicated electrical wiring in the bath, namely in the steam room. The most important rule is that it should not be closer than 0.8 m from the chimney and heater.

In the shower room and steam room, lamps should be installed with a degree of protection IP44 and higher. And the safest option is 12 volt halogen bulbs. But for a steam room and a furnace, it is better to take a particularly heat-resistant wire that can withstand heating up to 180˚ - SILFLEX Sif S = 0.25-185 sq. Mm, single-core, with silicone insulation.

For safety reasons, many bath attendants organize the lighting of the steam room from below - closer to the cool floor. This is most often a spotlight that can be placed under shelves, making the lighting design mysterious and unusual. Moreover, the wiring itself to it must be done with a special heat-resistant wire in a metal pipe.

An important point: like any equipment, an electrician for a bath must be audited at least once every four years - this is the guarantor of safety. And also for reference: aluminum wiring has a shelf life of 15 years, copper - 20 years, and therefore after this period it must be replaced - if we are talking about an ordinary house, and in a bath it does work in a rather aggressive environment.

Another important nuance: if you hire professional electricians, it is still advisable to understand at least some intricacies of electrical wiring in the bath. After all, it is known that today there are many who pretend to be specialists, and if the beloved steam room burns out, they will not be found even with fire.

This is how the electrical wiring of the bath is done with your own hands - it is difficult, but everything is real. And having figured it out, everything can be done much better and safer than hiring a team of experienced local "electricians".

Today everyone can afford to get their own steam room on personal plot or a summer residence. But, in addition to the pleasant prospects provided by the bath, a number of questions arise about how the wiring in the bath is organized with your own hands. The main stumbling block in this matter is the high humidity and temperature in the room, referring it to especially dangerous according to clause 1.113 of the PUE.

Under such unfavorable conditions, electrical appliances and other elements of the electrical network deteriorate and fail very quickly, and dielectric materials are covered with a layer of conductive moisture. Which creates a significant threat of electric shock in emergency situations. Therefore, in order to carry out the laying of electrical wiring and other electrical work in the bath in accordance with the current standards, it is necessary to study the requirements of the PUE.

Requirements according to PUE 7

According to clause 2.1.4 of the PUE, the wiring can be installed in an open or hidden way. Such a division of the wiring in the bath is relevant for different types walls, when there is a possibility of developing strobes or in the absence of such.

Due to the fact that some rooms are fire hazardous, and humid rooms contain a large number of condensate, when laying wires in an open or hidden way, all lines must be protected from non-combustible material in accordance with clause 2.1.42 and from moisture clause 2.1.43 of the PUE.

When placing wires open, for example, wooden walls the non-combustible lining underneath should protrude 10 mm in each direction. It is also necessary to observe a gap of 10 mm from the wire to combustible materials in accordance with clause 2.1.37 of the PUE. For hidden wiring, a fireproof coating is located along the entire length in accordance with clause 2.1.38 of the PUE. But placing the wiring in a metal pipe or corrugation is strictly prohibited in accordance with the requirements of 7.1.40 PUE.

For the sake of safety, all metal constructions- casings for lamps, heating ovens, household appliances, etc. must be connected to the protective ground in the wiring of the bath, the conductors must be double insulated, the circuit elements must be inaccessible. To protect a person from electric shock, an RCD must be installed in the electrical panel. These measures are stipulated by the requirements of clauses 1.7.50 and 1.7.51 of the PUE. It should be noted that when supplying lighting devices and other devices with low voltage in accordance with clause 1.7.53 of the PUE, it can be performed without arrangement.

What is the mains voltage to choose?

Due to the different needs for providing the required power level, the wiring in the bath can power both lighting devices, and then in small rooms, as well as powerful equipment. Because of this, the type and level of voltage used differs:

Single-phase network e - it is applied at an average level of load on the wiring in the bath from 1 to 14 kW. In this case, the entire bath is powered from single-phase 220 V networks.
Three-phase mains- it is used to load the wiring in the bath from 20 to 40 kW, when an electric stove, underfloor heating and other powerful electrical devices (water heating boilers, pumps, etc.) are connected to the bath.
Single-phase reduced- allows you to power the bath with a safe voltage of 12 V or 36 V, which can be used to illuminate the steam room in the bath without endangering a person. It is relevant for small baths with low ceilings, in which the lighting system is the only consumer for the leash.

After choosing the voltage level, a wiring diagram is drawn up, taking into account the locations of all consumers.

Circuit design

To draw up a wiring diagram in a bath, you need to decide on the number of connection points to it - lighting devices, sockets for specific equipment, switches, etc. It should be noted that switches, like junction boxes, are strictly forbidden to be installed in the steam room, they must be in the dressing room or dressing room. The sink is also not suitable for this due to the presence of moisture. The wiring in the steam room must not be brought closer than 80 cm to the stove or chimney; these requirements must be taken into account at the design stage.

Picture 1: simple circuit bath postings

Look at the picture, here is one of the simple examples of bath electrification. The wiring is connected by two independent leads, each feeding its own socket and a group of lighting lamps. This option will help to calmly leave the room if a short circuit occurs in one of the sections, since natural light sources are often absent.

If you plan to install specific equipment, for example, a water heating boiler or a washing machine, a separate line should be provided for them on the wiring diagram with a larger conductor cross section than for the lamp. The washing machine and boiler must be installed in dry conditions. If so, they should also be shown separately on the wiring diagram.

Selection of wires, switches, lamps

For the drawn up wiring diagram in the bath, all its components are selected: wires, sockets, switches and lamps. The cable brand is selected in accordance with the conditions in each of the bath rooms (high temperature and humidity).

According to the material of the current-carrying conductor, the wiring in the bath can be copper and aluminum, but due to the better mechanical and electrical parameters, the choice should be made in favor of copper wires. The main parameter for any of the cable brands is the wire cross-section. The size of the cross-section is selected based on the load connected to the corresponding section of the wiring.

How to choose wires and sockets according to the load?

For example, you are going to connect two 100 W light bulbs, turn on a 1 kW electric kettle and a 4 kW electric floor heating in the outlet. Thus, to calculate the cross-section, add up the power consumption of all consumers P = 0.1 + 0.1 + 1 + 4 = 5.2 kW. It is necessary to add a 20 - 30% safety factor to the obtained power value, for our example we get 6.24 kW. To select a specific cross-sectional value for wiring according to the power of the consumer or the magnitude of the electric current, you must use our or the data in the table:

Table 1: selection of wire cross-section

Look at the table, for a power of 6.24 kW, copper wiring with a cross-section of 4 mm 2 or aluminum wiring 6 mm 2 is suitable. If you have drawn up a power scheme with a separation of wiring for different consumers, then it is advisable to perform the procedure for calculating the cross-section for each separate section, but the material of the conductor for the wiring must be the same.

The socket, like the wiring, has a certain size bandwidth by current. Therefore, the selection of nodes for connecting to the mains voltage should be carried out in accordance with the connected devices. For example, for a refrigerator, it is enough to install a 10 A socket, but for a boiler, depending on the power, you will need 16 or 24 A.

For the steam room

The requirements of GOST R 50571.12-96 establish the following division of the steam room into zones:

Rice. 2: dividing the steam rooms into zones

Look at the figure, all zones are rebuilt in accordance with the location of the stove, either electric or solid fuel. In relation to the laying of wiring cables and the installation of other equipment, these zones have the following requirements:

The first is intended exclusively for the stove, if it is an electric heater, then the wiring for connecting it;
The second is considered the most loyal in terms of wiring requirements; no norms are provided for it;
For the third zone, requirements are imposed on equipment that must normally withstand temperatures of 125 ° C or more, and wiring 170 ° C or more;
Only lamps, sensors and regulators can be installed in the fourth zone, but their wiring is selected, as for the previous bath zone.

For internal wiring in the steam room, heat-resistant cables, for example, PVKV, PRKS or PMTK, must be used.

Luminaires in the steam room must have a metal body to which grounding is connected, a sealed glass shade with at least IP24. Do not choose a model with a plastic housing or parts for connecting luminaires, as they can melt and deform, which will cause moisture to penetrate inside.

Rice. 3: steam room lamp

For dressing rooms, changing rooms, lounges

These rooms are characterized by much less stringent requirements for location and wiring characteristics. But even in them all the requirements of the PUE for saunas must be observed.

Lighting devices, it is also better to use sealed with a degree of protection of at least IP24, but you can also use models with a polymer case or plexiglass, since the temperature in these rooms is much lower. Suitable for wiring. The sockets must have a protective shut-off device to prevent the free penetration of moisture from the environment.

Entering the wiring into the bath: air or underground?

According to the method of cable entry into a stone or wooden sauna, air or underground laying is distinguished.

Rice. 4: example of laying with an overhead line

The first option has a number of advantages - installation by air is carried out quite quickly and at a lower cost, except for those cases when you need to install supports before a wooden building. For air laying, it is most important to use a self-insulating wire (SIP), the number of cores in which is determined by the choice of three-phase or single-phase electrical wiring. In this case, the following distances must be observed:

Between supports no more than 25 m;
The height of the self-supporting insulated wire cable entry into the building is not less than 2.75 m;
The distance of the sag to the ground is not less than 3.5 m.

Due to the fact that the underground input requires the development of a trench for laying the cable, this procedure takes much more time than air laying. But when laying the cable entry underground, the line itself is much less exposed to atmospheric factors and wind loads, therefore it lasts much longer.

Rice. 5: example of laying a cable underground

When laying an underground input, the following requirements must be observed:

In addition to the lengthy installation process, the underground placement of the cable also requires additional protection measures against accidental damage during excavation work near its route.

Wiring method: open or hidden?

The advantages of open wiring in the bath include the simplicity and speed of installation, the absence of time-consuming preparatory work, and the availability for repair. The disadvantages of the open method of laying the wiring include its damageability and interference with the interior of the bath.

The advantages of hidden wiring include a much higher reliability and protection of wires along the entire length. Among the shortcomings of internal wiring, there are lengthy preparatory work and wall chipping, which is not always possible to complete.

Installation and connection step by step

The whole process of installing wiring in the bath can be roughly divided into three main stages. Compliance with the given sequence will allow you to perform work efficiently and without unnecessary loss of time. Get started with editing:

Switchboard

Sockets and switches

Lighting devices

Be sure to check the functionality of all devices in dry conditions before using. Make sure that the automatic protection is in good working order, this will save you from the consequences of mistakes made even before the start of operation of both the bath itself and the wiring in it.

Video tutorials

A bathhouse is a functional building with special operating conditions, which requires a reliable and safe electrical supply. For this reason, the wiring in the bath is laid in accordance with the basic requirements of the Electrical Installation Rules, developed for wet rooms. Any violation of the established norms can have dire consequences for the owner of the building.

Safety requirements for wiring

Installation of electrical wiring in the bath must be carried out in compliance with the following safety requirements:

Organization of a power supply chain from a distribution unit with an input automatic device and installation of an individual ground loop. All protective devices are installed in an electrical panel.
Using wires for indoor spaces capable of withstanding heating temperatures up to 165 degrees.
The organization of wiring in the steam room of a bath made of bricks and cinder block is carried out in a closed way. An open way of laying is possible in a wooden structure.
The installation diagram should provide for the mandatory use of protective electrical equipment - automatic devices and RCDs from 5 to 10 mA.
The wires are connected using terminal blocks.
Electric cables require additional insulation from wooden surfaces and elements. The optimal solution is a closed cable channel or a heat-resistant route.
All basic electrical fittings are installed outside the steam room and washing room. In the bath, it is allowed to use sockets, switches and dimmers with a maximum load of up to 16A in a splash-proof housing with an IP44 protection class.
The wiring in the steam room must not run over heating equipment.
Lighting devices must have a protective case and ceramic holders, auxiliary elements made of metal require additional grounding.

Electricity wiring diagram in the bath

You can prepare a working diagram of an electrician in a bath yourself, taking into account the total number and power of energy consumers, as well as the type of connection - single-phase or three-phase.

Connection for one phase provides for the presence of two wires at the input: phase - supply of electricity to end users - devices, equipment and electrical accessories; zero - current return. The maximum permissible power threshold is 15 kW.
Three-phase connection: four wires at the input - three per phase and zero. The electricity supply chain is similar to the previous diagram. The maximum permissible power is 43 kW.

As a rule, a single-phase connection is used for a standard bath, three-phase is relevant if powerful electrical appliances and equipment are installed in the premises.

Schematically, it is better to determine the installation locations and the number of electrical appliances, calculate the maximum load on the wiring, select the type and number of wires, and also take into account other technical parameters.

When organizing electrical wiring in a private bath, it is important to remember that the main equipment for a bath uses a voltage in the range from 12 to 36 volts. To ensure safe supply and distribution of electricity, it is recommended to install a step-down transformer.

The finished project for the electrification of a bath should contain data on the places of installation of protective devices - difavtomats and RCDs.

The choice of wires and electrical appliances for the bath

When choosing wires for electrical wiring, you should take into account the size of the cross section and the material of the conductor.

Important! In the bath, it is allowed to install wires only with copper conductors.

Steam room and washing

For these premises, cables or wires are intended, the insulation of which is capable of withstanding the maximum heating temperature of up to 200 degrees. Only heat-resistant copper wire can be used here:

Multi-wire (flexible) - up to 185 degrees.
Single and multi-wire (flexible) - up to 205 degrees.
Imported (flexible) - up to 200 degrees.

Dressing room, dressing room, rest room

In other functional areas of the bath, the use of VVGng non-combustible power cables is allowed.

Important! For the organization of internal wiring in the bath rooms, universal flat wires (PUNP) are not used, which can become the main cause of a fire hazard.

When choosing machines for protection against voltage surges in the network, first of all, it is worth determining their operating power. The main machine must have maximum power, for auxiliary devices this indicator is significantly reduced.

To establish the limit value of the machine for disconnecting from the network, the current in the circuit and in its specific section is taken into account. For example, if the current in the circuit section is 18A, then the maximum permissible threshold of the main machine is 20A.

Equally important for the protection of electrical appliances is a residual current device (RCD). According to the PUE, the RCD trip threshold should be from 25 to 30 mA.

Ways to conduct electricity to the bath

To conduct electricity to the bath building, it is necessary to ensure its delivery from the central panel through the incoming power cable. You can lay the cable to the bath in one of two ways: underground and over the air.

Underground installation method

The safest and most laborious way of laying power cables, requiring preliminary preparation of an earthen trench, is from the power source to the bathhouse.

For underground input, a VBbShv cable with copper conductive conductors with a cross section of 10 to 16 sq. mm. It has enhanced strength, safety and durability. Heat-resistant insulation and steel braid provide protection against mechanical damage and biological effects.

For underground cable laying, polypropylene pipes resistant to corrosion and freezing, metal pipes can be used when installing cables on poles or wall structures with a height of no more than 180 cm.

The technology for laying the cable underground is as follows:

Preparation of an earthen trench up to 70 cm deep. Backfilling of the bottom (10 cm) with a sand layer. Cable laying and re-sanding.
The introduction of the cable into the structure through a metal input sleeve, which is used to protect the insulation from damage during shrinkage of the bath walls.
The cable is stripped of insulation before connecting to the machine in the input panel. Next, grounding and lightning protection are performed.

Important! Wave-like laying of the cable in a trench will prevent its mechanical damage as a result of soil movements or building shrinkage.

Air mounting method

Air installation is more affordable and cheaper in terms of labor and financial costs, but at the same time it is fragile due to its susceptibility to damage and deformation.

If you need to connect a wire from the house to the bath, then you need to correctly calculate the maximum permissible distance between objects. With a significant distance of buildings from each other, air laying is irrational, since the risk of damage to cables increases under adverse climatic conditions.

It is also important to comply with the regulated cable laying height: above the road - at a height of up to 6 meters, above the paths for pedestrians - up to 3.5 meters, on the site - up to 2.75 meters.

If the distance between buildings does not exceed 21 meters, then the cable entry by air is carried out according to the scheme:

Entry holes are made in the walls in accordance with the cable diameter. Plastic or metal adapters are mounted in the holes to protect the cable from damage.
Brackets are installed near the holes for fixing the insulators.
A metal cable is stretched between the insulators.
The cable is fixed to the cable on plastic clamps, after which it is inserted into the holes and connected in the shield to the input machine.

All cable entry points through the walls are carefully sealed, and the space in the adapters is filled with foam or mineral wool. The metal cable should have a slight slack to ensure a secure hold of the cable.

The best option for air laying is an insulated self-supporting heat-resistant wire (SIP).

Step-by-step instructions for installing internal wiring

The wiring in the bath and steam room will be powered from the input distribution board. The main thing in this matter is to comply with the installation technology and requirements in accordance with the PUE.

Internal wiring

To correctly distribute the wiring inside the premises, the general scheme for electrifying the bath is used.

When wiring a cable, the following requirements must be observed:

From the shield, the cable is led in a single piece.
On the wooden surfaces the wiring is being laid open way, t. n. retro-wiring. The use of plastic and metal pipes is prohibited as insulation.
On brick and cinder block surfaces, the wiring is carried out in a hidden way with the application of a plaster layer.
The wires are fixed in horizontal and vertical lines, without bending or twisting.
The wires must not run opposite entrance doors, heating equipment and electrical appliances.
To connect the conductive cores, a welding or soldering joint is used.

Electrical connection

Sauna and bath - buildings with special temperature conditions, therefore, the sockets and switches are optimally located in the dressing room, rest room and dressing room at a height of up to 95 cm from the floor level.

The use of electrical accessories and junction boxes in damp rooms is prohibited. This is because over time, excess moisture condenses on the surface of the device and can cause a short circuit.

Switchboard mounting features and workload calculations

All electricians in the bath are conducted from the entrance panel. When deciding on the place of its installation, you must adhere to some rules:

Availability of free access to the switchboard.
Providing adequate lighting and regular ventilation in the room with a shield.
Equipping the panel with an introductory circuit breaker, RCD and outgoing automatic devices for each energy consumer.

To calculate the power of the input machine, it is necessary to take into account the maximum load that is created by the electrical appliances, equipment and lighting devices installed in the bath. The total power of consumers is divided by the voltage indicator.

For example, the total power was 4000 VA, the voltage in the network was 220V. Input machine power: 4000/220 = 18.18 A. For maximum protection, you should choose a device with a small power reserve, for example, 20 A. The power for each outgoing machine is calculated in a similar way.

The choice of lighting equipment for the bath

To keep things safe and practical, it is recommended to use reliable IP44 lighting fixtures.

High demands are placed on the luminaires installed in the steam room and the washing room. These are premises with special operating conditions, which are characterized by high humidity and temperature drops. The best option for them is a waterproof luminaire for wall mounting.

A good option for a steam room is fiber optic lighting equipment that is resistant to negative impacts and providing soft diffused light.

Since the main material for wall cladding is lining, it is recommended to use special built-in lamps that can be easily sewn into a wooden surface.

Important! According to the regulations, the body of the luminaires can be made of metal, and the shade can be made of glass. Equipment with a plastic base is susceptible to overheating and deformation, therefore it is not suitable for a bath.

In the rest of the sauna rooms, you can use halogen bulbs or LED lamps.

Features of connecting an electric furnace

The electric furnace is connected using a three-phase automatic machine and a magnetic starter. The circuit breaker provides protection against short circuits and voltage surges in the network, the starter - automatic control of the heating circuit.

You will also need heat-resistant cables of the brands PVKV, PMTK, PRKS, RKGM with copper conductors with a cross section of 3 × 2.5 mm, capable of withstanding loads up to 4 kW.

To connect the cable, use junction box installed in the neutral zone, with subsequent entry into the switchboard. Thus, the electric oven is not connected to a regular outlet, but directly to the panel.

If the operating power of the furnace is less than 4 kW, then a single-phase connection is sufficient.

Common mistakes when organizing wiring

Often, when electrifying a bath, novice craftsmen make gross mistakes that are associated with a violation of technical requirements or incorrect calculations.

Common mistakes:

Wrong choice of the type of electric wire and its incorrectly calculated cross-section.
Wrong choice of protective equipment - circuit breakers and RCDs.
Poor wire insulation in fire hazardous areas.
Violation of safety rules when laying electrical wiring.

Bath electrification is a complex and responsible process that requires a competent choice of consumables, adherence to the technology and installation scheme, and the correct introduction of the system into operation. This is the key to a safe and comfortable stay in the bath throughout the entire period of operation.

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