Installation of windows in openings without a quarter. DIY Window Installation Guide

If earlier you or your friends used the services of firms for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that the installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details on the norms, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! The manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

Nevertheless, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, you can save a decent amount of money this way.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is inner frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name), preventing the window from falling out and strengthening the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on the anchors, and the foam will be covered with special cover strips. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster to make the result more accurate.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements need to be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm for the bend to the already existing drainage. Also, this takes into account the width of the insulation and cladding (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the obtained figure. With regard to the departure, then it should overlap the heating radiator by a third.

Note! are measured at the end of the installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be referred to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the bag out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has its disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is put assembled, then it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First released workplace, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. For this, the glazing bead is slightly pry off with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical glazing beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the awnings. The handle is turned to "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Mullions are special jumpers intended for dividing the sashes.

Then you need to make a markup for the anchors and make holes along it - two from the bottom / top and three on each side. This requires anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, aerated concrete), then the fastening is performed using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled in the day before installation. So the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before the installation of a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out together with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the sealant and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is peeled off.

Step 4. The adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. The polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to align the structure), only after that it is attached to the wall. The underlays can be left as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct position of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. Typically, traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window has risen evenly, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall (approximately 6-10 cm) is drilled with a perforator through the previously prepared holes in the structure. The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the flatness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will "skew".

Prices for polyurethane foams and nail gun cleaners

Polyurethane foam and nail gun cleaners

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an outflow is attached to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.

The edges of the low tide are recessed into the walls by a few centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! The bottom slot is also sealed before installation.

Step 7. Assembling the window

After fixing the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The leaves are opened, their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening / closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is closed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will "lead". If done correctly, the foam will come out a few centimeters after drying.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The sill is trimmed so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while, until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Installation instructions for plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get down to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already "set").

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are also some nuances - such, for example, as installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right in our new article.

Installing windows without a quarter is as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the vertical size of the opening - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window.

Installing windows without a quarter is as follows.

If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening.

And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the vertical size of the opening - this will be the height of your window.

And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window.

Subsequently, with self-installation these 3 cm windows will be filled with polyurethane foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window for filling with foam and 3.5 cm for the window sill under the window. You also need to measure the length and width of the window sill and the external ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill "bumps" a little on the right and left into the wall.

For an inexperienced installer, you can take 20-30 cm in stock, the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and ebb tides come in a unified width (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and length (up to 6 m), but in any case, you must provide the minimum dimensions so that you can be brought the most suitable window sill and ebb from available.

goodlinez.ru

How to install a plastic window with your own hands, how to take measurements

Repair is an event that requires a lot of money, so the owners of the house tend to do part of the work on their own. Let's take at least the replacement of windows. It's great if you have theoretical knowledge of how to install a plastic window with your own hands. It is even better if you have practical skills in performing construction and installation works.

No special tools and devices are required to perform this difficult work. The main thing is interest in the result, attentiveness and accuracy. Let's take a closer look at each of the stages of this process.

Installing a plastic window: making measurements

This task is very important, the measurement accuracy is a convenient and quick installation and high performance. Measurements are taken individually, even in apartment building possible violations of the geometry of the openings, there may be errors in the thickness of the walls.

Remember where measurement errors can result.

The results of an incorrect measurement are not only difficulties with the installation, after several months or years, cracks and cracks form around the frame, blows into the window, condensation appears on the glass, and then mold.

If the decision on self-measurement is made, use the advice of the masters:

• decide on the material for wall decoration and installation of slopes
• the size of the frame should be smaller than the opening in the wall, the permissible gaps are from 2 to 5 cm, they will provide freedom of construction when exposed to natural expansion
• measurements are taken on the outside and inside of the opening

The width of the opening is determined by three measurements made in the lower, middle and upper parts, choosing the smaller of the three values. Similarly, three measurements are used to determine the height.

Measurement can be done in different ways. Without a “quarter”, i.e. from the width indicator obtained in the above way, the size of the installation gap is subtracted, i.e. 20-40 mm, while the differences in wall thickness are taken into account. If the differences are significant, it is better to stop at a mounting gap of 40 mm.

When calculating the height, the result obtained by comparing three measurements is used. Subtract from it the size of the mounting gap, from 15 to 20 mm, and the height of the mounting profile - 30 mm.

The dimensions of the window sill and ebb can be obtained by measuring the old structures that were previously used for decoration. If they were not installed, the length can be determined by adding 10 mm to the width of the opening.

The width is determined by the depth of the opening from the side of the room. The installation site of the heating radiator should not be blocked by a window sill.

To obtain the length of the ebb to the width of the opening, measured on the outside, add 70-80 mm. In width, the ebb tides can protrude from the outer walls by about 50 mm.

“Quarter” is the protrusion of the fourth part of the brick along the outer part of the opening. Measurement in this case is more problematic, the quarters themselves may be skewed or asymmetrical.

Therefore, when measuring, they adhere to strict rules:

• frame overlap behind the side quarters - from 20 to 40 mm, over the top - 20 mm
• the stand profile should be placed 30 mm above the bottom wall, this will simplify the installation of the ebb

The dimensions of the low tide and the window sill change in the same way as for the opening without quarters.

Ordering a plastic window

The company's specialist will help you correct the dimensions and recommend which profile is better, choose the optimal configuration, determine which parts can be made deaf, which can be opened. You will need to select the fittings.

The choice of the fastening system is of particular importance:

• through the frame
• with the use of support reinforcement

Ordering new PVC windows

The second option involves the installation of elements of the fastening system on the frame itself, during the manufacture of the frame in production.

Fastening through the frame is easier to perform, but during the installation work it will be necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the blind parts and all the swing doors.

When installing the window on your own, it will be easier to cope with the task with the second option, but since the structure is heavy, you will need to attract an assistant.

Getting ready for installation work

Preparatory work begins in the event that the windows have already been delivered, of course, it will be necessary to put all the furniture away from the window, tightly cover it from dust. The heating radiator should also be covered with foil.

A window block is being prepared:

• remove the glazing beads, first vertical, be sure to mark
• removing the double-glazed window from the grooves, carefully install it against the wall
• dismantle until there is only a frame with jumpers that reinforce and separate the sashes
• on the inner side of the frame, along the perimeter, using a metal drill, holes are made for fastening anchors, the recommended drill diameter is from 8 to 10 mm, corresponding to the diameter of the anchors

If special fastening lugs are used to fasten the window, then dismantling the window will not be required, the work will consist in fastening the parts attached to the kit to the frame itself, screws are used as a fastening element.

To eliminate the possibility of a cold bridge forming in the lower part of the window opening, the masters recommend to fill the entire inner space of the support profile with foam. It is advisable to start installing windows when the foam hardens well.

On the day the windows are installed, the old ones are dismantled.

Removed:

• window box and frame
• heaters and seals that are under the box
• slopes, if you plan to install new
• window sill and cement underlay
• all debris and dust that formed during work

If the windows are replaced in the old wooden house then a waterproofing layer is laid along the perimeter of the opening.

How to properly install a plastic window with your own hands: the order of work

The frame is installed on the substrates. It is not necessary to remove them after fastening, they will be a good auxiliary device that will reduce the load on the anchor. Pegs are also used to secure the frame to the sides.

After each stage of work, it is imperative to check that the installation is horizontal; it is recommended to use not a bubble, but a more accurate water level. A plumb line is used to level the structure in a vertical position.

After checking the correctness, the structure can be secured with anchors.

If the fastening is carried out through the frame, then with the help of a perforator drill, holes are made in the wall, strictly in the places marked for fastening. First, the lower edges of the frame are fastened, both sides. Anchors are inserted but not fully secured.

The verticality of the installation is checked, then holes are made for fasteners in the middle and upper parts. After all the anchors are baited, you can fully tighten the fasteners. But special efforts however, it is not necessary to apply, excessive stress can lead to deformation of the frame.

Fastening with special lug plates is a little easier. The holes for the anchor are already prepared in the ears themselves. Anchor holes will need to be drilled in appropriate locations. First, the lower, then the upper part of the window is fixed, observing the horizontal and vertical installation.

After installing the anchors, the structure is assembled. The procedure is carried out in the reverse order to the one when the disassembly took place. The double-glazed windows inserted into the frame are fastened first with the lower and upper glazing beads, then with the side ones. Snap the glazing beads all the way in with a rubber mallet.

The assembled window is checked for normal opening and closing of the sashes. When set to the position (0 or 45 degrees), the sash should neither open nor close on its own.

If the check goes well, the flaps are closed and the gaps between the parts adjacent to the walls and the walls themselves are sealed. Commonly used polyurethane foam... Since the foam can deteriorate over time under the influence of the external environment and sunlight, it is recommended to equip a hydro-barrier on both sides of the seam.

Ignoring this point over time becomes the reason for the freezing of the window or its fogging. WITH outside use a special vapor-permeable membrane self-adhesive strip.

On the lower inner part, a foil waterproofing strip is used, it will be completely hidden by the window sill.

For foaming the gaps between the frame and the wall, it is best to use all-season foam. After applying the foam, it can be moistened with a spray bottle. The presence of water accelerates the polymerization process.

How to install a window sill to plastic windows with your own hands

Before installation, the window sill is given the required dimensions, i.e. cut it off. Having connected to the installation profile - using a level, they make sure that the slope is correct - a slight slope from the window towards the room is permissible - it will allow condensate to drain freely. Sagging of the window sill is unacceptable.

With the help of polyurethane foam, the voids formed under the windowsill are filled, then several weights are evenly installed on it, for example, cans of water. The load will prevent deformation of the material from exposure to drying foam.

It will take 12 hours to completely dry the foam, after this period the cargo is removed, all the excess foam formed is removed.

An important point is that a gap between the frame and the window sill must not be allowed; if it is found, it will need to be sealed with silicone.

Installation of slopes

Work on the installation of slopes should be started by fastening the planks along the inner perimeter of the window opening. Screws with a length of 95 mm can be used as fasteners. The plank is flush-mounted, i.e. it should not go beyond the window opening.

Next, on the outer frame of the window, we fix the U-shaped starting profile. Fastening element, namely, the self-tapping "bug" is screwed directly into the frame. It is recommended to carefully monitor the accuracy of the connection of the outer edges of the profile, because slopes will be inserted into it.

At the next stage, the F-shaped profile is mounted, a stapler is used to fix it. The groove of this profile must be located opposite the groove of the previously installed U-shaped profile, it is these grooves that are intended for installing the slope.

At the part located above the window, the F-shaped groove is cut using metal scissors or a sharp knife. It will be necessary to remove it - it overlaps the upper part of the window.

After carefully preparing the profiles, you can insert the slopes themselves. If you notice a slight error in the evenness of the seams, it can be eliminated by smearing the seam with white silicone.

Ebb installation

If the old ebb was made of high-quality material and was in good condition, it is not necessary to replace it. If it is decided to install a new one, it is ordered together with the window itself.

The ebb is fastened to the base profile using several self-tapping screws. To avoid the rattling ebb tide and loud noise during rain, fill the space under the ebb tide with polyurethane foam.

When working, you should not neglect the rules of its use:

• recommended cylinder temperature - not lower than +20 С
• if it is cold outside, it is recommended to put on special warm covers on the barrel of the applicator and on the cylinder
• it is rational to use foam if the gap is 10-60 mm
• if the space intended for filling is wider, it is advisable to use cheaper building materials to adjust the dimensions of the window opening (to reduce it), possibly foam or bricks.

Features of installing PVC windows in a brick, wooden, panel house

Modern housing construction involves the use of various wall materials, both natural and artificial. Some of them should be treated with special attention. during operation, they change their parameters and characteristics.

For example, a house made of a log tends to shrink, and the process can take several years, and changes in parameters can be significant. As a result of such changes, windows may be distorted, therefore, there will be problems with their closing.

To avoid such troubles, experts recommend using the so-called casing, or jig. Its design will protect the window frames from the pressure forces caused by the shrinkage of the walls.

Those who argue that the shrinkage of a wooden house lasts a year are not entirely right, in fact, the drying of wood lasts for 5 years. Throughout this time, the cage will protect the frames from stress.

Peculiarity panel houses- relatively thin walls. This is not to say that they keep heat poorly, because high-quality heat-insulating materials are used in their manufacture. But the installation plastic windows in such houses has certain features.

Such walls cannot provide uniform heat distribution, the more the profile surface is in contact with the wall, the warmer it will be in the room. For panel houses, it is recommended to use windows with a 70 mm wide profile.

If we take into account that 80% of the window opening area is covered by a glass unit, it is not difficult to draw conclusions that to maintain heat in the house, a structure capable of providing high resistance to heat transfer is required.

This effect can be achieved by installing energy-saving glass in a glass unit. This thermal mirror is capable of reflecting the radiant component of heat and directing it back into the room.

In this case, the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer will be 0.69, according to GOST, this coefficient should have a value of 0.61, and for areas with cold climates.

Those. windows with a profile of 70 mm and a double-glazed unit with three panes, one of which will be energy-efficient, will be an ideal option for a panel house.

The main problem when replacing windows with plastic ones in brick houses is the non-standard sizes of window openings. In the projects of such houses, double-leaf windows are usually provided with dimensions of 1.28 -1.40 m (width) by 1.6 m (height). At the same time, the window slopes are wide, about 30-50 cm, after dismantling the old frames, they become even wider. The depth of the window sills is large, almost always exceeding 40 cm.

The process of installing plastic windows in brick houses is quite laborious, even dismantling an old window is sometimes difficult and takes a lot of time. But the large thickness of the walls of the capital structure made of brick allows the windows to show their heat-saving qualities to the fullest, the windows in such a house will last much longer.

Houses of the 600 series (ships) are distinguished by the absence of window slopes and window sills. The windows in them have different sizes and configuration, non-standard configurations of balcony blocks make installation difficult.

With the installation of plastic, thinner frames, it becomes possible to install a shallow window sill.

Since the outer quarters are not provided for by the design of the window opening in houses of the 600 series, then during installation they are used:

• outdoor coverings
• expansion and additional profiles

During the construction of this type of houses, aerated concrete was used - a material whose soundproofing and heat-saving characteristics are far from ideal. Therefore, when installing windows, the masters recommend ordering double-glazed windows with three glasses, one of which is energy-saving.

Having a sufficient amount of information on how to install a plastic window with your own hands, as well as having some skills in performing such work, it is quite possible to cope with the task on your own. When performing work, you must be extremely careful and accurate.

Have you noticed a mistake? Select it and press Ctrl + Enter to tell us.

foxremont.com

Window opening - with a quarter or without?

Plastic windows have been ordered and manufactured in accordance with all wishes, and it would seem that little remains to be done - the installation of windows is ahead. In fact, high-quality window installation plays a huge role in the absence of further problems. Therefore, the team should choose a reliable one, and know some of the tricks of installing plastic windows.

Take terminology, for example.

Even at the time of measuring the window, you can hear the phrase "window quarter" or "quarter in the window opening". What is it, how the presence or absence of a quarter can affect the operation of a PVC window over time, and how is the window correctly mounted in both cases?

So let's start with the definition. A window quarter or a window opening quarter is a protrusion of a part outer wall, about 3-4 cm wide. It got its name, since 3 cm is the width of a quarter of a brick, which, in fact, should be a protrusion according to all the canons of construction. V doorways quarters are not provided.

Rice. a) - a window opening with a four; b) a window opening without a quarter.

A quarter of the window opening is located around the entire perimeter of the window. Its presence is necessary for the reliable installation of the window from the inside of the room.

However, a window opening with a quarter can not always be found. The absence of a window quarter is not uncommon. For example, in private construction, this requirement is often ignored even at the stage of building a house, either out of ignorance, or because of the laziness of the builders. And houses built in the middle of the twentieth century did not have window quarters, since the windows were installed in them in a different way.

What is done in such cases? There are two solutions. The first is to process the space between the frame and the wall with foam, and then close the formed seam with a strip. The second way is to complete or drill a "window quarter", which will more reliably hold the window and maintain a sealed seam, preventing moisture from entering the room.

If you have questions about the correct installation metal-plastic windows, the specialists of the "Open Windows" company will always be happy to give you an exhaustive answer. We take care of the quality of the installation of windows in your homes.

oknadnepr.com.ua

video and step-by-step instructions from the master

Today, plastic double-glazed windows can be called the best solution for use in any building. If you still use wooden windows, then it is high time to change them to more modern ones, and forget about the annual problems in winter. You do not have to paint them and plug the cracks, because the plastic frames are perfectly flat and not demanding to maintain. We will tell you how the installation of plastic windows takes place, and show a video of the installation process for clarity.

If you were interested in the services of firms for the installation of plastic windows, then you probably know that they have the usual installation and according to GOST. As a rule, the installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST will cost more, but if all tolerances are observed, it will be of better quality than usual. You can find out more about the requirements for the quality of products and installation work in the following regulatory documents:

• GOST 23166-99 "Window blocks" - general requirements for room lighting, ventilation, weather protection and noise permeability.
• More specific requirements are described in GOST 30673-99 "PVC profiles" and GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks from PVC profiles».
• Installation requirements are specified in GOST 30971-02 "Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings".
• The norms of heat and sound insulation, ventilation, and light transmission are described in GOST 26602.1-99, GOST 26602.2-99, GOST 26602.3-99, GOST 26602.4-99.
• Those. the conditions of glued glass units for construction purposes are specified in GOST 24866-99.

Do-it-yourself pvc window installation includes the following steps:

• Opening measurements;
• Dismantling work;
• Preparation of openings for installation;
• Installation of a plastic window;

However, if you decide to perform all the actions yourself, then a problem may arise: the manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements and installation were not carried out by their masters. If you make a mistake by a centimeter, then the window block may simply not enter, and if you insert plastic windows incorrectly, then in a couple of years they will freeze, leak, etc.

On the other hand, if you approach work responsibly, having studied all the subtleties before work, then you can make the installation of pvc windows even better than masters from companies that often save time and money by not following the technological process.

Let's consider in order all the stages of installation work, and start with measurements of the window opening. This is the most difficult stage, because it is difficult to determine the real dimensions of the window when it is already installed, especially in old houses. The layer of plaster and insulation after dismantling may fall off, and the opening will become larger than you expected, so you should carefully examine the walls when measuring.

Measurements and purchase of windows

First, consider the process of measuring a window in the opening without a quarter. The window quarter is an inner brick frame, about ¼ of a brick (5-6 cm) wide, which prevents the windows from falling out and allows them to be more rigidly fixed. In addition, a quarter covers the foam from the sun's rays, which should be done without fail even in its absence. In the absence of a quarter, the frame is attached to the anchor plates, and the foam is hidden by means of a decorative strip. Finding out the presence of a quarter is very simple: you need to compare the width of the frame inside and outside the window, if it differs greatly, you have quarters.

Window measurements are as follows:
The width of the window opening is measured. To do this, you need to know the distance between the inner slopes. At the same time, in old houses, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the plaster, it is advisable to remove it for more accurate measurements.

The height of the window opening is measured from the upper slope to the sill, taking into account the thickness of the sill. We make a minimum of 3 measurements, from the edge and in the middle, the minimum result is taken for calculations.

• Width = width of the window opening - 2 * mounting gap.
• Height = Opening height - 2 * mounting gap - height of the stand profile.

It is also necessary to check the straightness of the window opening so that they are not skewed. Vertically, this is done using a plumb line, and horizontally using a hydro level. This process will be easier and more accurate with a laser level.

If there are irregularities, be sure to indicate them on the drawing, according to which you will order the window. It is necessary to calculate the usable space so that it does not happen that, when installing, the corners of the frame will rest against the wall due to the skew of the opening. In other words, you need to maintain a uniform mounting gap around the perimeter.

As for the location of the window block, if you look from above, it needs to be installed 2/3 of the width from the inside. If an external facing of the facade is planned, then you can move the window closer to the street side.

To measure the width of the drainage, it is usually enough to add 5 cm per bend to the width of the already installed drainage. Its total width should be the sum of the width from the assembly seam to the outer corner of the wall + 3-4 cm for the ledge and + margin for the bend. If external finishing of the facade is planned, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the insulation and finishing, therefore it is recommended to install the ebb tide after finishing the facade, but in any case, it is necessary to cover the foam from the sun.

The dimensions of the window sill should be equal to the width from the inner corner of the wall to the assembly seam + the size of the inward departure - the width of the window frame (60, 70, 86 mm). The overhang should be large enough to cover the top of the radiator by about 1/3.

It is better to measure the slopes after installing the windows, since it is difficult to determine the exact width. The length will be equal to the height of the window opening with a margin for cutting.

Measurements of windows with a quarter

If there is a quarter, you need to take into account its dimensions, and measure along the outer part.

• Width = distance between quarters + 2 * overlap of quarters on the frame (2.5-4 cm).
• Height = distance between ebb and top quarter + overlap on top quarter (2.5-4 cm).

The installation plane is selected along the inner part of the quarter, and the dimensions of the window sill and low tide are calculated from it.

Window order

After all measurements, you can contact the manufacturer and determine the configuration of the reservoir window. Fittings are selected, the presence of blind parts and sashes.

Also, when choosing, you should know that there are several window fastening systems:

Fastening through the frame in the mounting plane;

Fastening with support reinforcement, which is installed during production.

This means that in the first case, during installation, you pull the double-glazed windows out of the frame and fix it, and then insert it back. The second option means that you fix the window immediately with double-glazed windows. Both options have their drawbacks: when pulling out and installing double-glazed windows, their tightness can be damaged, and if this is not done, then the weight of the entire structure will be large, and a heavy window can also be damaged during installation.

Preparatory work

Preparation should be started only after the window is in place. First of all, of course, you need to free up the workspace and cover the furniture with polyethylene, because there will be a lot of dust.

If necessary, a double-glazed window is pulled out of the window, and removed from the sash hinges. To pull the glass unit out of the frame, you need to carefully pry the glazing bead with a chisel and pull it out. First we remove the vertical glazing beads, then the horizontal ones. Be sure to number them so as not to confuse them, otherwise gaps may appear later.
After you remove the glazing bead, the frame can be tilted slightly and the glass can be pulled out to the side.

To remove the sash from the frame, you need to remove the plugs from the awnings and unscrew the bolts. After that, we turn the handle to the center to switch the window to ventilation mode, open it slightly and remove it from the lower canopy.

As a result, you will only have a frame with imposts (jumpers for separating the sashes).

Marking of points for anchorage is made, and holes are drilled with inside... We make a minimum of 3 attachment points at the edges and 2 at the top at the bottom. For reliable fixation, anchors 8-10 mm and the corresponding drill for metal are suitable.

If the walls have a low density (for example, aerated concrete), then the fastening must be done with anchor suspensions. They are screwed to the frame and attached to the wall with hardened self-tapping screws (6-8 pcs. For each hanger to the wall).

Advice! In order to exclude a temperature bridge in the place of the support profile, it is highly advisable to fill its inner cavity with polyurethane foam a day before installation. So you protect yourself from freezing.

Dismantling an old window

It is better to remove the old window on the day the new one is installed. Usually they are thrown into the trash, so here you can not stand on ceremony: pull them out together with the fasteners, saw the frame for convenience, pry them with a nail puller, etc.

The old sealant and insulation are removed, a layer of plaster is removed from the slopes with a perforator with a spatula nozzle. The window sill is torn out and the excess cement under it is removed with a perforator so that the base is reliable. Slopes are leveled, excess is removed and dust is removed. Then all adjacent surfaces must be primed, which is often forgotten by installers. If the opening is wooden, then you need to provide a layer of waterproofing around the perimeter.

Note! If work takes place in the cold season, then it should be warmer outside -15 degrees. At the same time, it is imperative to use frost-resistant foam in winter.

Fastening a plastic window

First, you need to fix the window on wooden wedges around the perimeter so that you can level it, and then you just need to fasten it to the wall. After fixing, wooden substrates do not need to be removed, they will additionally support the structure.

Plastic windows - installation according to GOST

Another gross violation of GOST is the absence of a support profile. It provides not only a stable fastening, but also allows you to attach the window sill and ebb to it. In its absence, they are usually attached directly to the frame, breaking its tightness. The diagram shows how to position the window sill profile at the bottom of the frame.

After that, you need to make sure that the window is perfectly level in all 3 planes. This can be best determined with a plumb line, water or laser level... Popular bubble levels have low accuracy for these measurements.

Once you have set the window block straight without distortions and slopes, you can fix it with anchors to the wall.

Installation of a plastic window

Using a hammer drill, carefully so as not to damage the profile, we drill a wall 60-120 mm through the holes prepared in advance in the window. First, we fasten the lower anchors, but not completely, then we check the evenness again and fasten the remaining points. The final tightening of the anchors is only possible after a final check. In this case, you do not need to overdo it, otherwise the frame will warp. The fastening to the anchor plates takes place in the same way.

Drainage installation

From the outside of the window, the ebb is attached to the support profile with a self-tapping screw or into a special groove on the bottom of the frame. All joints must be sealed with sealant so that moisture does not penetrate inside. Additionally, you can deepen the ends of the ebb into the wall by a few centimeters by making the recess with a puncher. Before laying on the outside, the bottom gap is closed to prevent freezing. To reduce the sound from the rain, we glue a strip of Linotherm soundproofing to the lower part of the ebb, or make a foam pillow.

Assembling the window

When all the anchors are fixed, you can re-insert the double-glazed windows and put on the sashes. We insert the glass into the frame and fasten the glazing beads back, they should snap into place, for this, gently knock on them with a rubber hammer.

Elements of plastic windows

After that, you need to check that the flaps open freely and fit snugly when closing. The window level is finally checked. An open sash should not open or close arbitrarily if the window is level.

After you are convinced of the correct installation, you can proceed to the sealing of the assembly seam. We close it up with polyurethane foam and make reliable waterproofing on both sides to avoid freezing and misted glass.

Moisten the cracks with water before applying the foam. When the gap is filled, you need to spray it again to improve the polymerization process.

Advice! Be especially careful when sealing joints! It is important to apply the correct amount of foam (70-95% of the joint space), if it is too little, freezing is possible, and if there is a lot, then the window may lead. After drying, it should protrude several centimeters from the seams. Also be careful not to get on the face of the plastic profiles. Fill wide joints over 8 cm in several stages.

Inside we glue a waterproofing tape for plastic windows around the perimeter, except for the bottom. At the bottom of the window, you need to glue waterproofing with a foil surface, which will be hidden by the window sill. On the outside, you need to stick a vapor-permeable membrane so that moisture comes out from the inside, but does not penetrate inside.

Installation of the window sill

We cut the window sill so that it rests against the lining profile and goes into the opening. At the edges, it should go 5-10 cm onto the walls. Do not forget to leave a temperature gap of 0.5-1 cm, which will be hidden by plastic slopes.
The window sill is installed on wooden lining, at a level, slightly inclined towards the inside of the room. The empty space under it is filled with foam and plastic plugs are glued to the ends. After that, you need to put a heavy object on it until the foam dries. You can also fix it to the anchor plates by screwing it to the wall from below.

Video on how to correctly measure and install plastic windows:

Conclusion

Now you know how to put a plastic window correctly, and you can probably do it yourself. It is recommended to finally check the operation of the fittings one day after installation so that the foam has time to set. It is necessary to adjust the fittings for a snug fit of the window on all sides.

This instruction for the installation of pvc windows is also applicable to balcony glazing, but there are some subtleties there. In particular, it is usually necessary to strengthen the parapet, additionally creating a partition of foam blocks.

If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to study the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. It takes about 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure, if you have no experience in this matter. For an employee of the company who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Window system complete set

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First you need to find out all the names of the parts and materials. The main supporting part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more cameras

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles, which are manufactured in the factory, are subject to certain standards. If you want to opt for good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood-like, brown. Products from a colored profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window block is the frame

The construction of a plastic window includes the following details:

• frame - the main structural part;
• if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the part that opens is called a sash;
• double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - there is a great choice;
• in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed down with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of swing-out mechanisms that help open and close the sashes and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• on the inside of the frame, ventilated drainage holes are made, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by the temperature difference on the street and inside the room gets through them to the outside;
• another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Can I install the window myself

It is believed that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To carry out these works, no special professional tools and equipment are needed, huge experience. The procedure includes two main points:

• dismantling the old window block;
• installation of a new window.

Dismantling an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to make a choice in favor of the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed the tilt-and-turn windows yourself, this voids your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from a manufacturer who has been on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a warranty for the fittings of about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order for the installation of windows to be done brick house, cinder block, gas-block or apartment, you first need to make an order for a swing-out or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: width and height of the structure, width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the structure

Before you start measuring, watch out for important point- what kind of opening do you have: with a quarter or without. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then there is a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is made as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure it in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measuring, you need to determine the type of window: with a quarter or without

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For the ebb, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the battery.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide from which components your structure will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows you need, how they will open, on which side the wood grouse is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same, you must choose the most small size... Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.... In apartments, from floor to window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows may be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance is required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or on the loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to correctly measure windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during dismantling, the structure will simultaneously extract part of the materials that filled the space.

Preparing for the installation of a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. In the presence of large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Before installation, you will need to clean the base

After finishing work with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, the installation of which is to be done. To do this, it is necessary to remove the sash of the window, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame is small, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes.... The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is positioned vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and with opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without design cuts. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and most reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in.
Fastening points for anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is attached using special ones, which are attached to the profile, and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it should be borne in mind that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may be skewed or it may sag. If the decision is made to mount on a plate, it is worth choosing thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or the installation of windows at a height is to be done, then it is worth using the option with unscrewing the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed at a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening... If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done up to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to select the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be observed:

• having inserted the frame, set it to a level using support and spacer pads;
• then attached to the wall;
• after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
• then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this open and close the window;
• after everything has been checked, the flaps must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this they are used.

However, it must be remembered that with direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, it is necessary to create, it can be a special film that must be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam dries, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing foam into the gap.

To be done correct installation both on the windows and, follow the simple rules:

• we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or attach to it with self-tapping screws;
• the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
• the level is leveled with the help of special pads, after which the space under the windowsill is blown out with foam or filled with a solution.

According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls... However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Errors that can be made when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing a structure so that it has a long term of use:

• it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the anti-burglar resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the glass unit can be removed;
• you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures in the level during the installation of the window, otherwise it will be difficult to open and close the sashes;
• it is imperative to protect the polyurethane foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
• the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to fix it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

Observing all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

• remove everything from the windowsill,
• remove the curtains,
• free the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters away from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with a cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through the extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The sash is removed from the window. Dismantle window frames... If necessary, dismantle (knock off) the slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you want to use old windows, for example, in the country, you should stipulate the option of keeping old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed on anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it should be strictly observed that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be level vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. The foam serves both as an insulating function and as a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all recesses and cavities in the opening, taking into account the expansion rate of the foam.

The installation of a plastic window in most cases means that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is renovation work and the sill can be installed on its own.

If the window to be mounted opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of an ebb tide (from the outside of the window).

If you have a good old ebb tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will need to be restored (restored) - a paid service, the cost of which is slightly different from the cost of a new ebb tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the support profile). If the opening under the windowsill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, it is necessary to masonry or seal the opening with mortar. When installing a window sill (window sill), control that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is no more than 60 mm.

When installing the window sill, it should be taken into account that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill is "recessed" by 2 cm under the window frame, therefore the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and after it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from moisture penetration into it, as well as from destructive sun exposure.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element that increases the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, moreover, it is the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

Either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the picture) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable platbands are used as slopes.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. Choice plastic slopes VEKA is justified for more accurate gluing of wallpaper with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden underneath.

Advice: if your apartment is renovated, then it is better to install the trims on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing accessories on windows

On the the final stage a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and sashes are hung. Installation in progress additional accessories, fastening of additional fittings and components, such as: step ventilator, retainer, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after the installation of the PVC window.

The plastic window is much better in functionality than the old ones wooden windows... If you follow the simple instructions for its care and use, it will serve you forever.

Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removal of the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be carried out after the installation of products and finishing of the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repair work is still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties under heat and UV exposure and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General requirements for installation in accordance with GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings. Are common technical conditions»Put into effect by the order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to adjust the design documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST was established until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian norms.

What's new? New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have "Instructions for the installation of windows", approved by local authorities, the need to develop assembly assemblies of windows for each facility under construction and coordination of assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze the thermal fields, as well as provide for the registration of certificates of delivery - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden works and certificates of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the standards are the Appendices:

• Appendix A (recommended) presents drawings with examples of window installation;
• Appendix B (recommended) sets forth requirements for fastening windows in openings;
• Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows in general and, in fact, is the main working document;
• Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window firms and has more requirements for testing joint structures and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

The testing of materials and seams in general is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there have been no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, for the consumer there is no need to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the duty of professionals.

Without delving into the intricacies, we can talk about three basic principles of installing windows, which should be paid the closest attention.

Three layers of joint

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings on the basis of the principle "from the inside is tighter than from the outside." Each assembly unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection against climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials for outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three sealing planes must be present.

Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable in order for the insulation to be ventilated through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. In the best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing strips). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks of the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plastering, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not apply to the PSUL.

Limited use of silicone outside is possible. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint to be filled, and the silicone should be glued only on two sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

A sealant can be used when insulating an assembly seam. Although, it is not clearly spelled out in the GOST, but there is no prohibition on its use, no matter how much the supporters of mounting tapes want. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anoint with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer- heat insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams made specifically for window installations. These foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed once they have hardened. Other foams, after the end of installation, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

The inner layer- vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from moisture vapor penetration into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly based on butyl, are used, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboards. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

Lack of cold bridges

Assembly seam- this is the node where the joining of the wall and window structures, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heating technology, takes place. And it is important to execute the knots in such a way that cold bridges do not appear on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of the past (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, there are high heat losses, and secondly, condensate falls out on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then later on these places may form a fungus (mold). The same applies to quarter-cut openings. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here you should especially carefully consider the heating technology of the junction nodes.

An important recommendation is to use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm in the absence of quarters. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the casing are possible only if there is external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

If there is an effective insulation in the wall ( mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam), the window should stand either in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not arise due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window unit in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by the sun's rays, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As calculated thermal expansion values ​​for windows white 1.5 mm per 1 running meter should be used, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the extreme fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the inner corners of the frames. The rest of the fasteners are placed along the entire perimeter with a step for white profiles no more than 70 cm, for colored ones no more than 60 cm. Near the imposts, fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due to both thermal expansion of the windows and the fact that it is very difficult to fill a thinner seam with foam insulation evenly.

Bearing blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The pads are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one pivot sash, the pads are placed on the side opposite to the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two flaps, respectively, four pads are placed.

Schematic diagrams of the nodes of the junction of window boxes to the walls

1 - window board;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block for the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - a dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower unit);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise-absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant in a thin layer

1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - panel for finishing the inner slope;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, showcases, glazing to the entire height of the floor. These are three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on various designs walls and from the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - the responsible and high-quality work of the installers.

Deviations from vertical and horizontal

According to GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions ", p. 5.6.4 Deviations from the vertical and horizontal of the mounted window units should not exceed 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but no more than 3 mm at the height of the product.

In the updated version of GOST 30971 of 2012, the maximum deviations of the window and door block from the vertical and horizontal level are the same (clauses 5.2.4) - no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, and no more than 3 mm for the height of the entire product ...

When can you install windows

With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 "On Silence", disturbing the peace of the neighbors is an administrative violation. Please carefully read our instructions for conducting noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much is the installation of windows in accordance with GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The assembly seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or another will affect the stages (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

Installation of PVC windows is a simple matter if you have at least once held construction tools in your hands and are at least a little versed in materials. Installation of such windows will take a little time: half an hour or an hour for dismantling old windows and 2 hours for installing new ones.

Installation of PVC windows. Installation according to GOST

GOST for PVC installations windows, unfortunately, in most cases is only a recommendation, but some rules should be followed during the installation of windows. First of all, this applies to preliminary measurements. Determine the type of window opening - with or without a quarter. Below is a visual example of a schematic view of an opening with a quarter (A), without a quarter (B).

Scheme 1 - Window opening with a quarter and without a quarter

Measurement of windows without a quarter

The installation of windows without a quarter is carried out by installing windows in a cleaned window opening. To order a window:

1. subtract 5 cm from the size of the window opening vertically - the indicator of the height of the window;
2. subtract 3 cm from the size of the window opening horizontally - an indicator of the width of the window.

These gaps will subsequently be filled with polyurethane foam: i.e. 1.5 cm on each vertical side of the window, as well as 1.5 cm for the upper horizontal and 3.5 cm for the bottom (for mounting the window sill).

We measure the length and width of the window sill, the external ebb and add at least 5 cm to the obtained numbers - the window sill should cut into the wall from both sides of the window.

Measurement of windows with a quarter

We measure the window opening horizontally in the very bottleneck... Add 3 cm to the resulting number (1.5 cm each on the sides of the window) - this is the required window width. We measure vertically the length from the bottom of the window opening to the upper quarter - this is the required vertical size of the window.

The window sill and low tide are measured in the same way as the quarter-less option.

As a result, you should have:

• window height indicator;
• the width of the window;
• the length of the sill;
• the width of the window sill;
• low tide length;
• the width of the low tide.

Scheme 2 - Window measurements

Installation technology

The technology for installing new windows in old houses is similar. The only amendment is that the measurements of the new window are made according to the outer dimensions of the window frame to be dismantled.

When ordering a window, please also check whether the delivery set includes:

• windowsill;
• stubs;
• mounting profile (mounting profile);
• anchor plates for fastening the window;
• instruction on installation of PVC windows (some manufacturers include it in the kit).

When ordering a window, you should also know the answers to such questions:

1. What type of window profile do you want to order - 3-chamber, 4-chamber or 5-chamber?
2. What type of double-glazed window did you choose - 1, 2, 3-chamber?
3. The way to open your window is a blank window, an opening window, a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation, or a combined window (a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation and micro-ventilation).

By the way, if you want to get a quality product for a reasonable price, you should choose from mainly German and, not surprisingly, domestic manufacturers of window systems: REHAU, Veka, KBE, Schuko, Aluplast, Kemmerling, Brugmann or Trocal.

The installation technology provides for two methods: installation of PVC windows with unpacking and installation of windows without unpacking.

Scheme 3 - Construction of a metal-plastic window

The first method involves preliminary disassembly of the window: removal of glazing beads, removal of double-glazed windows from the frame, fixing the frame to the wall with dowels, and the subsequent installation of double-glazed windows and glazing beads.

The second technology for removing double-glazed windows does not require: the frame is fixed with fasteners fixed on the outer surface of the wall, and not with dowels through and through.

The installation method with unpacking can sometimes lead to fogging of the windows, and with a lack of experience, glazing beads and double-glazed windows can be damaged, and the installation process itself will take much longer. Of course, correct installation is not necessary for any negative consequences will not lead. However, be extremely careful!

The unpacking method is rightfully considered more reliable, especially if the frame has been fixed with large long anchors. If we are talking about fixing a window on the floor above the 15th floor, about installing large windows (2x2 m), the right choice is to fix the frame through and through, disassembling the window.

Required tool

To install windows you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level;
• gun (for a cylinder of polyurethane foam and sealant);
• polyurethane foam (1-3 cylinders for 1 standard window);
• PSUL for external waterproofing;
• Primer;
• puncher;
• set of hexagons;
• jigsaw;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• paint brush;
• roulette.

Installing windows. Work progress

In the process of installation work, you should be guided by the previously outlined plan: the window installation scheme (you drew it yourself or it was submitted as an example in the instructions from the manufacturer of window systems) will help to avoid mistakes and strictly follow the plan. If you doubt whether your calculations or ideas about the process of installing windows are correct, it can help routing for window installation - a universal set of rules and regulations for installation, guided by which you will be sure of the correctness of your actions.

We dismantle the old window and prepare the surface for the installation of the new window system.

Preparing the tool for work.

To improve the adhesion of waterproofing tapes to the surface of the opening, we treat it with a primer. Apply the primer with a paint brush.

Having removed the cellophane packaging of the windows, we glue the inner vapor barrier tape to the frame along the semi-perimeter.

Figure 1 - Semi-perimeter gluing of the window frame with vapor barrier tape

We glue the frame with an external vapor barrier - we fix the PSUL on the outer surface of the frame. When pasting, do not allow gaps between the tape joints. PSUL - a vapor-permeable tape will prevent the release of polyurethane foam when processing gaps to the outside, protecting not only appearance structures, but also polyurethane foam from environmental influences - precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and wind, destroying the foam.

We install the frame in the opening, align and fix, focusing on the installation rules:

• on the frame prepared for installation, we apply the markings of the places for subsequent fastening;
• we fix it from 4 sides of the frame with a step of 70 cm, while the distance from the corner of the window frame to the first fastener should be no more than 15 cm;
• fasteners are fixed to the window frame (the self-tapping screw must be fixed in the metal inside the frame, therefore the correct installation technology provides for the use of self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4-5 mm, for large window sizes the diameter of the self-tapping screw should be 12 mm);
• use anchor plates as fasteners;
• in places for the installation of fasteners, we make recesses in the window opening (fasteners are recessed by 2-4 cm for the convenience of working with slopes after completion of work on installing the window);
• the window should be leveled (for a slight leveling of the horizontal level of the window, you can use wooden wedges, placing them under the frame at the right points);
• to fix the frame in the opening, we install wedges - first the lower two, thanks to which it is possible to set the lower and upper edges of the frame to the horizon (so that the window does not dangle, it is appropriate to fix the upper anchor), then the wedges are fixed along the vertical of the window;
• we attach the window to the window opening.

On the outside of the window opening, we attach a diffuse tape under the low tide.

After adjusting the fittings (it is not recommended to buy fittings from a manufacturer other than the manufacturer of the window system, however, if necessary, pay attention to the offers from Winkhaus, Siegenia, GU, Aubi, Schuko (Germany), Maco (Austria)), you can foam the window (apply foam along the entire perimeter of the window frame, taking into account that this mounting material increases its volume up to 3 times) and 15-20 minutes after processing all the gaps, it is necessary to bend the protective film previously applied around the perimeter of the window frame so that it completely covers the mounting gaps ( see figure).

Figure 2 - Processing of assembly seams

We fix the ebb. It is advisable to install it under the window - this way you can avoid water seepage at the connecting seam of the ebb and the window frame.

Do-it-yourself PVC window installation in winter

Many are worried about the question: "Is it possible to winter installation of PVC windows?"

Certainly possible! And the installation technology is unchanged. The only thing worth paying attention to is the temperature conditions for the materials used during installation. In particular - the indicators of the use of polyurethane foam.

Special winter options, thanks to which you can work even at -10 ° С!

When choosing polyurethane foam for winter work, focus on the product trade marks Macroflex Profi (Finland), Illbruck (USA) and Moment (Russia).

Installation of a PVC window sill

Installation of PVC window sill completes the installation of new window blocks.

The length and width of most windowsills are standard. In any case, you need to take a window sill with a margin of length and width. The excess can be easily cut off with a grinder.

Work progress:

Bring the window sill under the window and level it using wooden wedges or any other durable material at hand.

The window sill should go into the wall by at least 1.5 cm.

Before final installation, make sure that the window sill does not sag by pressing in several places.

The slope of the window sill relative to the window should not exceed 3 °.

Blow out the cavity under the windowsill with construction foam.

The surface of the window sill must be evenly immersed for at least 12 hours so that the expanding foam does not affect the installation angle of the window sill.

A day later, the remaining foam is removed with a clerical knife, and the joint between the window and the window sill is treated with a sealant.

Scheme 4 - Installation of the window sill

All that remains is the installation of slopes on PVC windows - and you're done!

According to GOST! Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

$ Installation of PVC windows: the price of the issue

The cost of work will depend on how much your window costs: firms that provide a full package of services often deduce window installation rates from the cost of a window - from 10% starting. Thus, when doing work with your own hands, the savings on installing windows can range from $ 40 to $ 60 (for one window).

Installation of PVC windows. Price:

• Kiev - from 100-130 UAH. per m²;
• Moscow - from 1,000 - 1,200 rubles. per m².

The cost of plastic windows with installation:

The cost of plastic windows with installation is on average from $ 80-90 (blind window 1m by 1.5m) and up to $ 2,200 (glazing of a 3.4m by 1.5m section with a sliding two-chamber window system). As you can see, the range of prices is amazing. Installation of windows - the price is not always included in the total amount. Therefore, when signing an order for the manufacture of a window and the corresponding contract, make sure what is included in the final price, and what you still have to spend on.

An estimate is an extremely important document: upon receiving it in your hands, ask to provide you with a full price list of works and materials - checking is never superfluous.

The cost of installation, paid separately, is different: prices vary between $ 30-70.

If the client is not able to pay the entire amount at once, some firms provide goods and services to the brigade of their masters in installments.

By the way, the window business is a profitable business: for example, winning a tender for the glazing of high-rise buildings or a residential area under construction is like hitting a jackpot in a casino. A company's profits can be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.