Do-it-yourself brick stove drawings. DIY brick ovens for home

Since ancient times, it has become a custom that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to sleep. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, it is not for nothing that in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to heating and decorative functions, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing aromatic and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding the stove is a whole science that has been learned in more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among the acquaintances, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before getting started.

Determining the design of a brick oven

Depending on what hopes the owners of real estate have with their home, it is worth considering the most satisfying options for all desires. Don't forget about dimensions. different ovens and their weight. It is necessary to count not only own strength and means, but also the strength of the base.

Russian stove

Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This construction fulfills maximum amount functions, therefore it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is located in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
The lounger is provided for rest; depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. A continuous flow of air for better combustion of the fuel is provided by the blower. The hex and the bend are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Prepared food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The underfloor and baking pans were used to store kitchen utensils, grips, pokers. Stoves are small-diameter recesses located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow, dried out very quickly in them.
Those who want to fold the Russian stove in the house will have to provide a place for it at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half in length. A structure with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional flavor should pay attention to another version of the stove.

Brick oven photo

Swede

The model, which is more compact than the Russian stove, designed for heating the room and preparing food, is a Swedish one.
She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat so that food can be cooked simultaneously on two burners on a cast iron stove.
There is also an oven, which the hostesses will appreciate. The Swede has a lot of modifications, they are named by the names of the developers (furnace designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choose suitable option will not be difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch woman

It will only serve to heat the house. Contrary to its name, it has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer in a compact size. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. The design features include a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutch woman warms up evenly from bottom to top.
Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits into an area of 1 m². To heat a medium sized room country house, that's more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive, for improving appearance it is often decorated with tiles.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to attend to the search for a brick wall project suitable in all respects, think over its location, take into account all fire safety requirements. You will need to select tools, purchase the necessary material and invite assistants.

The project scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trust resources on the Web. Detailed courses were even filmed for those who wish.

Of the tools you will need:

mesh (sieve) to sift sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
shovel;
grinder (you will have to cut the brick);
a pickaxe hammer will help to chop a solid brick into small pieces and cut them to the desired shape and size;
jointing for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the joints between bricks a neat and aesthetic appearance. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then this device will not have to be used. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will provide the same density and width of the joints;
trowel (trowel) for applying mortar;

a mixer attachment for a perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and evenly stir such a mass can only be done using a power tool;
It is better to take a tape measure with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
the rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
the building level is checked whether the masonry is not "overwhelmed" relative to the horizontal;
the work will be "dirty", so the cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops must be kept ready. It is better to remove the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the selected oven configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: cast iron plate, number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.

The sand must meet the following characteristics: clean, fine, homogeneous. This can be achieved by sieving.
Clay is skinny, normal, and oily. The proportions of the composition of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise to choose the "golden mean", that is, clay of normal fat content.

There are four main types of bricks.

Ceramic... This is a classic among home building materials. Lay the foundation, build load-bearing wall, build Vacation home- all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
Silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but it dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
Refractory brick used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glass blowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) brick the best for building a kiln. It is divided into four types:
- carbon is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
- lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
- the quartz type, with all its refractoriness, is very unstable to the action of alkalis or iron oxide. But it can be used for walls and arches of stoves;
- alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.

Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional bricks. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the oven, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for installing a brick oven

The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is due to the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will occur in any case, and the loads on both bases and the temperature effects will be different.

The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the base of the oven.

How to make the laying of a Russian brick oven

What else do you need to consider before starting work? For a classic Russian stove, you will need about 1700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (dimensions for the hole 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of solution.
As for the layer of the mixture to be applied, in this case, the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry joint of moderate thickness will help the bricks to set faster and stronger.
According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the arch of the firebox should go at an angle relative to the mouth. The sill-shaped protrusion cuts off sparks from the crucible against the pipes and retains the soot.

To help the master, orders have been developed. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of this or that row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the places of installation of cast iron and other parts of the stove.

Brick oven drawing

The base of the stove must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing felt is fine. The first row will be laid out right on it. Fired (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, since they are not afraid of moisture.
So that the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows is of high quality, in the corners starting row three bricks of size ¾ are laid. That is, from these incomplete bricks, a triangle is formed: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be beveled to ensure maximum fit.
Second row serves as the starting point for laying out the guardianship.
Since the masonry involves the installation of bricks in a staggered manner, in order to avoid overlapping seams, third row will require four bricks at the corners with dimensions of ¾.
When laying fourth row you will need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming an entrance to the furnace, must have beveled corners. Thus, you get support for the arch. To make the baking even, a wooden formwork is erected in its opening.

When the arch is completed, you can return to styling fifth row... Three bricks are placed in the corners ¾. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) need to be beaten off with a hammer with a pickaxe so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.

Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that after completion of the work it could be easily removed through the entrance to the furnace. If you can't give the bricks the desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying whole bricks with neat bevels.
Seventh row the technique of execution resembles the first, for the eighth whole brick is used. The eighth row involves the arrangement of a site for a cold stove.
Ninth row- as the first one connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
Eleventh row must completely cover sand backfill and the stove itself.
Thirteenth row assumes the beginning of work on laying the walls of the pole and the furnace. Between them is a strip of metal, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and the pole up to up to the seventeenth row. In it, it is necessary that pre-chipped and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the arch of the firebox. The furnace itself is laid out similarly to the guardianship.
The completed vault of the crucible is an excuse to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of feet - supports are fixed to the side of the window of the pole. The arch, which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows in a row, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
Twenty first row serves as an overlap of the backfill and the furnace, and twenty second forms an additional overlap.
Twenty-third row must strengthen the flap walls and overtube. In the last element, the strangler is fastened, it is needed to connect the samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the view half-door.
Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter forms next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). The next row can completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that it is supposed to leave a hole in it on the right side, blocked by a valve.
From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, a cut is made in order to let the bricks a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The latter value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
After the masonry dries out, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, perform a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

the structure has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
there is no grate;
constituent elements of the structure:
the firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the stove;
chimney, consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel gas passage through the system: three downward and three lifting channels;
cleaning door;
blew.

You will need to purchase:

refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
well bendable wire;
a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
masonry glue;
firebox door, blower, latch;
standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Diagram of a Dutch brick oven

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: the clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying ovens, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.

First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Not forgetting about the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
In the third row the ash chamber begins to form, the door is installed later.

Fourth row are performed in order to build up the mass of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, use a metal wire. If the first three rows of bricks were laid flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on the edge until the firebox door is closed.
The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are laid flat again. Eighth row- increasing the height.
Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided by the project, then ninth and tenth row move back. Along the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along the perimeter, on which a surface for cooking is installed. The tenth row assumes the beginning of laying the base of the chimney. To facilitate the construction, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
V eleventh row the gate valve is installed (using an asbestos cord), and the laying is done in a quarter of a brick.
V fourteenth row the firebox is overlapped from above, along back wall form a hole for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is being done in the next row.
V two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleanout door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without binding it with mortar.
Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to shape it by means of masonry.
Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the solution, it will set better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to heat the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The stove does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly into the chimney.
Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, also does not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
The best option is fuel that can smolder for a long time.
To the question of fire safety, it is worth adding that the Dutch oven must not be heated too much. When overheated, it will emit carbon monoxide... The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
Anyone who is engaged in laying stoves for the first time should make a trial laying in a "dry" way. That is, to complete all the work in stages, without cementing the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need help from the outside.

Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be conquered the first time. Careful study of the schemes, trial laying without the use of mortar, advice experienced craftsmen make the task easier. Labor and patience, according to the saying, are very conducive to a positive outcome of any business.

Stove heating is not going to outlive itself at all. Brick wood stoves continue to be built not only by the owners village houses, but also the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much does it cost to hire a master stove-maker to build and buy necessary materials... The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Simple Brick Kiln Projects

The first thing to worry about is choosing a home heater project that can meet your heat needs. We offer 3 options for uncomplicated structures, proven in many years of practice:

channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
a hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
Swedish - a combined heater with a niche for drying clothes.

Duct stove - Dutch

It is quite simple to fold the Dutch woman shown in the picture on your own. It is notable for its small dimensions in terms of plan, but it can be placed in height indefinitely, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two or three-storey small house or a summer cottage, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the floors. The duct stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutchwoman quickly warms up, and after fading it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Her strong point- simplicity of construction and undemanding to fuel.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. A tank set in the path of the red-hot flue gas able to serve hot water for a heating system or household needs.

Swedish brick stoves combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is not an example more complicated than a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish stove built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Furnace ordering - Dutch

Sectional diagram of a Dutch woman

The order of laying the hob

Schematic device of the plate
Ordering the Swedish oven

Any brick oven transfers heat to the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for efficient heating it is necessary that the heater, or at least a part of it, be in a heated room. Considering this requirement, we will give some tips for choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to lay the stove in the middle, with a slight displacement towards the outer wall, where the cold comes from.
For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
Suppose there are 1-2 small rooms adjacent to the hall. You can take there water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a furnace heat exchanger or tank.
Do not plan to install the heater close to outside walls. It is pointless to warm them up, some of the heat will simply go out into the street.
The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and the rough surface should go into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the ridge of the roof. It is better to displace the structure by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials, located closer than 500 mm from the furnace body, must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. It is advisable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard under them. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to wooden roofing elements located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which a do-it-yourself stove is built is red ceramic brick... It must be of high quality and always full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the oven business, except for the construction of outdoor grills and barbecues.

Advice. The Dutch woman is so undemanding to the quality of materials that she can be made from used red bricks. Only at the end of the masonry will it have to be refined, for example, overlaid tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small-sized Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

red fired bricks - at least 390 pcs.;
grate grate 25 x 25 cm;
loading door 25 x 21 cm;
small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
metal flap 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch woman can be laid out in any required height. The specified number of bricks will be enough for construction in a one-story private house.

List of accessories and building materials for the hob:

solid ceramic bricks - 190 pcs.;
grate 25 x 5 cm;
a two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
metal tank - a boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs .;
chimney valve;
steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take over the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, or better, 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil, welded with your own hands from steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is necessary to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

To build a Swedish heating and cooking stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a 40 x 4 mm steel strip and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for the firebox masonry. To install the hardware, look for a soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Masonry mortar advice. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of stoves, which are available on the market.

Laying the foundation

Before folding the stove, a solid base must be prepared. The structure is quite heavy, so place it directly on the floors, even flooded cement screed, is unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is an isolated structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater near walls or erecting corner fireplace, you need to indent at least 150 mm so that a minimum clearance of 10 cm remains between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are covered with a screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for the construction of the stove foundation:

Dismantle the screed section and dig a pit protruding 50 mm beyond the dimensions of the furnace in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of collapsing soil.
Fill in a 100 mm high sand pad and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (time of complete hardening concrete mix) put a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt soaked in clay mortar or basalt cardboard. Then you can start laying the oven body.

Base arrangement diagram for wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of the stove under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of concrete slab lay out the walls of red brick (can be used) to the level flooring... Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, clay-soaked felt and a continuous first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video

A brick stove in a private house or in the country can always perform several functions, for example, heating and cooking. But most often the construction of a brick oven is carried out with one purpose - to constantly maintain heat in the house. So that the heating of the room is carried out efficiently (regardless of its size), and the fuel consumption remains moderate, you should know not only design features brick ovens, but also the correct order of its construction. Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of building material. You can learn more about how to fold a simple brick oven with your own hands.

It is necessary to accurately distinguish between ovens according to the principle of use, which are divided into:

Red brick heating stoves. They are used most often, since they can be used to heat up to 100 m 2 of the room. The dimensions of the oven can be quite large.

Heating stove

Cooking ovens. They are used exclusively for cooking, of course, while spreading a certain amount of heat around.
Combined brick version. This brick oven can be used for both cooking and heating. It is very convenient, for example, in the country or in a country house.

Combination oven example

Fireplace options. The brick fireplace stove is not widespread, but some owners are trying to give the old stoves exactly the look of a fireplace, saving space. Used for space heating or as decorative option source of fire.

Fireplace version of a brick stove

To find out the main structural elements and dimensions of a red brick stove, for example, you should take the most popular option - a combined one (a hob and a brick stove for heating a house or summer cottage).

The structure of the combined brick oven:

Firebox. This is the place of the Russian stove in which the fuel is burned. Since the temperature in this place is constantly high, then the materials should be selected accordingly.
It blew. A free cavity, which is laid out of bricks directly under the firebox. The main function is the accumulation of ash and small unburned residues. Also, air enters the furnace through the blower, which improves the quality of fuel combustion.
Ducts for removing smoke from the oven. One of the most difficult parts of the oven. Passing through the channels, the combustion products give off part of the heat to the brick, which subsequently heats the room.
Chimney. Releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere. It also provides the traction necessary for combustion in a Russian stove.
Tile. It is located in a place above the firebox and only in cooking or combination ovens.
Cleaning holes. For greater convenience, they are mounted in the upper part of the chimney, this place allows it to be quickly and efficiently cleaned.

The foundation is the basis of any structure

Like every solid building, a brick stove for a home should have its own foundation. The weight of a brick oven is on average 1.5 tons, no more. Therefore, in the ground, it will be enough to dig a trench up to 15-20 cm deep, which is approximately equal to one bayonet of a shovel, and you can start building a furnace with your own hands from bricks.

After the foundation trench is ready, formwork can be installed in it. The formwork is made from boards of any category with their own hands, the only condition is the absence of traces of decay. The structure should rise 10-15 cm above the ground. According to the rules, the base of the foundation should be level with the floor, but many homeowners make it a little higher. The walls of the formwork can be fastened together using knitting needles.

A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the trench. You don't need to use a lot of sand. Cement can be poured over the embankment. masonry mortar which requires the following materials:

1/3 bucket of cement.
8 bayonet sand shovels.
Water (add until thick cement slurry is formed). In case of accidental overflow of water, a little cement and sand should be added.

The first layer of cement will be 7-8 cm. Materials such as pieces of reinforcement or pre-welded mesh should be laid on it. Next, the second layer is poured and the reinforcement is also laid. The reinforcement will reliably bind the entire structure and add strength to it. After the end of the pouring, the solution must be allowed to dry, this can take up to several weeks.

2 layers of waterproofing should be laid on the finished foundation. It is not necessary to fix it, the brickwork will qualitatively press the waterproofing to the foundation.

Do-it-yourself bricklaying of a brick stove, step by step

If you know the sequence of laying a simple brick oven and have the required tools and building materials at hand, the work can take several days. It takes no more than one day for the craftsmen to build a brick oven.

The most important in the oven is the first brick row, which is laid with a continuous surface, without any cavities or technical holes. To set its level and correct angles, use: a square, a building level and (if necessary) a tape measure. After finishing the laying of the first stove level, it can be checked using a plumb line fixed to the ceiling in the room.

Construction of the first row of brickwork

If you do not follow these recommendations and do not use a measuring tool, then the result may not correspond to the desired: a row with curved walls, disproportionate angles, an uneven surface. Then the oven will have to be shifted, which will lead to additional waste of funds.

A whole oven brick is not always needed here, sometimes halves are enough. In order to prepare such pieces, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel. The brick cannot be beaten off with a hammer, it is too fragile and the pieces will turn out to be uneven.

You can see the whole process described above in more detail in the video:

The above sequence clearly shows that it is possible to fold a simple oven (which will withstand an increase in degrees) or a brick slab with your own hands, and this does not require complex tools or expensive building materials.

Ordering for brick oven

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

Most often, for laying a stove (or firebox) made of bricks, an earthen solution is used, which can be prepared with your own hands (for example, for a cooking stove), it does not take much time for this. The following materials are needed for the furnace: clay, water, sand. Clay, before preparing the mortar for laying the oven, must be soaked for at least 24 hours. After that, clean water should be added to it, without mineral impurities. The resulting masonry mortar should be thick enough and resemble sour cream in consistency. The last ingredient is sand, it is added in small portions, constantly stirring the solution.

If the brickwork of the brick is made according to all the rules, then the clay mortar will not be suitable for the first row (the junction of the brick and the foundation), as well as for the chimney. This is due to the accumulation of moisture during continuous operation of the oven. Clay is prone to water absorption and cracks in the event of sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, it is better to use lime mortar for these places.

The procedure for preparing a lime mortar for a brick oven:

Materials: quicklime, water, sand. Prepare a mixture of water and lime in a 3: 1 ratio. In this case, it is necessary to add water to the lime and constantly stir the solution until the dough is formed. It is very important to use a face shield and gloves when working with quicklime.
After preparing the dough for laying the oven, it should be crumbled and sieved with high quality, getting rid of too large particles.
Sand is added to the sieved solution, the amount of which should be 3 times more than lime.
Adding water will allow you to get a thick mass for laying a stove or a separate firebox. Now you can start building a real Russian stove. Some craftsmen, for greater strength, add a small part of cement to the solution.

A qualitative, but more expensive substitute for kiln clay and lime mortar is cement mortar. Cement is characterized by increased strength, as well as resistance to temperature extremes; it is most suitable for laying a stove used to heat a room, as well as a chimney or oven.

To prepare such a solution, sifted sand and cement will be required. The ratio should be 1 portion of cement to 3 portions of sand. Having prepared a dry mortar (it is enough to mix the cement and sand), you can gradually add water to it, but only in small portions. Having achieved the required consistency (the solution should become creamy), you can start laying a brick oven for a house or summer cottage. The main disadvantage of cement mortar for creating a brick oven with your own hands is that it should be used within one hour after preparation.

And one more useful video for novice stove-makers

The stove is a crude source of considerable confusion. The point is that “rude” or “rude” is not a well-established term. In the West and, partially, in the South Slavic languages, this is either just a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood stove for a summer kitchen with 150-200 bricks. Well, according to acc. Dutch women, Swedes, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves and others fly out to a request in Runet. You can even find statements, they say, there was once an outstanding designer of Grub stoves somewhere.

In fact, a stove with a rough, or just rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating plate, separate from the stove in a heating cycle, but technologically combined, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that the bell-type can not be rude - the heating shields to the stoves are always ducted. Do-it-yourself coarse construction is simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, they are roughly built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excessive fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not hit the budget.

Note: a heating and cooking brick made of 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; of the same power without a hob - 1200-1350, - 1800-2000, - 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

A do-it-yourself pipe can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the furnace, and then it looks indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in fig. The rough-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction works but her thermal power limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great voltage. Therefore, rough-slabs are placed mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional visits there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf / sq. m.

A coarse with an attached shield (pos. 2) is structurally more complicated and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. Rough on wood with an attached shield is capable of developing up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The flow diagram of the flue gases in the rough with the shield is given in pos. 3; this is how the popular Galanka oven was built. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a rough for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction, it will be necessary to pay particular attention to some of the features of rude furnaces, which are discussed in a significant part of the article's material.

Note: wood-burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is undesirable to heat such coal, the bed overheats.

Why is rude - rude

Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the structure (pos. 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of heat engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to develop and build a rough because its furnace (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately, and then "stitched" together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating technology. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the firing section and the shield is not taken into account, namely, due to its accounting, it is possible to increase the efficiency of the furnace of a single cycle. That's why, if you live in a harsh climate, rough may only make sense to you as a seasonal temporary stove.

Firebox, flap and chimney

The main differences are rough from a solid fuel stove - a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace part. The tooth retains hot gases under the hob, which in the summer stove reduces fuel consumption for cooking. Roughly, it is not needed, tk. excess heat will be used up for heating.

A coarse stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with enhanced draft will not help here: the gases in the flap will immediately expand, cool down. Their thermal energy will go into mechanical, which will successfully fly into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works according to the push-and-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings. Rough, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose, coarse heating shields are made for them different types... Diagrams of heating shields for stoves are given in Fig. below; the fuel part is shown conventionally everywhere.

Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. Least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and heat efficiency of the furnace are average. Most often used scheme;
Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The weight and dimensions of the stove are the same as in the previous one. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Resistance to gas flow approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the heat efficiency of the oven is higher. Perhaps the device of a couch, i.e. the upper channel is not very hot;
Consistent stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as for a flap with horizontal channels, technological complexity is the same as for a flap with short vertical channels. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of heat output. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. It can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimum for an extension to an existing slab without reworking it.

Note: there are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chess. The most difficult, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. The only possible option for a rough house with a heated attic, see below.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are crude - compactness and the possibility of building in an existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in the structure of a furnace of the same dimensions, it will quickly become unusable from an excessive heat load. If special requirements are not met:

Furnace foundation.
Masonry mortars.
Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
The choice and methods of installing oven fittings.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation for roughness is shown in Fig. A crushed stone pad without sand filling is leveled into the horizon before pouring. Grouting mortar M150 - cement M300 and sand 1: 2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Do not forget to support the trimmed logs! Leaving their ends dangling is a common but gross mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in the plan should protrude at least 100-150 mm on the contour of the furnace.

Note: a brick bed on the foundation for the stove is laid out with dressing in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of the masonry of the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold coarse, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on a lime mortar as one that combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the bottle should be laid only on a completely moisture resistant cement-sand mortar... It is highly desirable to take sand for clay mortar from mountainous or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is not very suitable for coarse masonry.

Masonry

For rough masonry, an oven brick is used and, if the order (see below) is provided, fireclay brick; the red worker is of the highest quality - light red(completely annealed), without burn spots, distortion and swelling. Dry-formed bricks are absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out on the trail. rules:

If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out on dry; detected defects of cutting / chipping of bricks are eliminated.
Before laying on mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. Plump all the bricks in a barrel indiscriminately!
A layer of 5 mm mortar is applied to the bed and the poke of the brick to be laid.
The brick to be laid is laid with a smooth movement slightly inclined and moved to the previous one so that there are no air bubbles in the seam.
Press the brick until the seam converges to 3 mm; you can’t knock!
The initial seam between fireclay and ordinary masonry is 8-10 mm; after pressing - 6 mm.
The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam are removed with a trowel (trowel).
Recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by indentation without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to study visually a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves can see below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking oven

Fittings

Fittings and grates for rough need cast iron; doors and latches - with a mounting skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Steel welded or cast iron fittings with lugs for straight whiskers (laid along the corresponding walls of the furnace) are unsuitable in this case. However, place doors / latches as shown in fig. on the right, you can't be rude; this is not at all according to the stove rules. For a dacha Dutch woman for 2.5 bricks in the plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe it will do, but not for the rude.

It is necessary, firstly, to squeeze the mustache (wire - galvanized 2-3 mm) with a wrap so that they do not move. Press gently at first, put it at the desired angle (from the far end of the mustache to inside masonry must remain at least 12 mm). Then tighten gently, shake the door / latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with an asbestos cord (or from basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing fittings in the oven.

Video: installing the door in the oven

Video: grate and stove

Examples of constructions

The figure below shows the order of a simple rude for a seasonal dacha or a temporarily inhabited house. A feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to coarsely do without, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and if it is already warm enough outside, it does not allow the stove to overheat the room during cooking.

On the trail. rice. - the ordering of a single-burner rough is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This is an option more for a hunting lodge or summer cottage, where they spend their weekends in winter.

Further in Fig. - ordering of the house heating and cooking coarse with switching over to winter and summer running (two-way). This stove is quite complicated, but it is quite economical both for winter and summer running. Option for a permanently inhabited summer cottage or a one-room house.

On the trail. rice. - ordering and drawings of heating coarse - fireplace stove (furnace door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room one, this rude is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room one - with a facade in the living room and in the rear in 2 adjacent rooms; the partition between them falls on the back side (backdrop) of the oven. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in fig. below the diagram and ordering are rough with a stove bench: a cooking part in the kitchen / hallway with a bathroom; lounger - in the living room. This is already quite complex construction for an experienced stove-maker. For a firebox in warm weather, the stove bench is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen / hallway will have to be kept wide open, because switching to summer running is not provided.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional shield with checkerboard channels is located (in the inset at the bottom right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if you take a glass door of the firebox. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings - a summer valve.

About chimneys

The chimney for rough must meet all fire safety rules. It is only necessary to note here that best chimney for coarse - sandwich, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If rough is your first oven (which is quite possible), take your time to build, model first on the table. Suddenly there is a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling furnaces with ordering diagrams and plastic bricks on a scale, these are sold. No - bricks can also be cut to scale from Styrofoam. Then it is convenient to imitate the seams of the masonry using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

Brick ovens equipped with hob, versatile - they allow you to heat the house, as well as heat water and cook food. , from the simplest and most compact, which can be folded with your own hands, to complex multifunctional, the laying of which is better to be entrusted to an experienced stove-maker.

It would seem that there is nothing easier than replacing a suitable surface of a brick oven with a metal insert with your own hands, having received a stove for cooking. In fact, everything is much more complicated. The stove is a complex device, and the thermophysical processes taking place in it depend on the correct arrangement of its elements.

This type of oven has special requirements. On the one hand, it must effectively accumulate heat in the thickness of the brickwork, on the other hand, take a significant part of the heat to heat the hob. In the summertime, when heating is not required at home, the hob should warm up quickly with economical fuel consumption.

Requirements

In theory, the hob can be made of any material that can heat up to high temperatures when firing a stove. In practice, however, they are used with holes covered with a removable cover.

This design makes it possible to obtain zones with different temperatures... The thermal conductivity of cast iron, in contrast to steel, is not very high, therefore, on the plane of the stove, you can heat food, as well as boil or simmer "over low heat". And by opening the lid, you can achieve direct heating of the dishes open flame, which allows you to quickly boil water or fry food in a pan.

The most practical burners shown in the photo, consisting of concentric rings of different diameters- they can be matched to the size of the pan base. In addition, the gaps between the rings compensate for the thermal expansion of the cast iron that occurs during overheating, and the plate can withstand repeated heating and cooling cycles without damage. Solid cast iron stoves are less reliable and require more accurate heating.

Materials (edit)

Which brick is preferable for laying a stove equipped with a hob?
In most cases, on the diagrams-orders of stoves for a house, a summer residence or a bath, you can see two types of bricks: ordinary ceramic solid and refractory fireclay - it is most often denoted yellow... Do-it-yourself fireclay bricks lay out those parts that experience the greatest during heating thermal loads: firebox and furnace roof, part of the smoke channel immediately after the combustion chamber.

The main difference between fireclay bricks is its increased heat capacity.... It is able to accumulate and release the received heat for a long time more efficiently than ceramic. For laying a heating stove, and especially this is an indisputable plus.

But if the stove is used mainly as a cooking stove, then the increased heat capacity of chamotte is rather a disadvantage: it will absorb a significant part of the heat, and it will take more time to cook food. In the summer, it will be impossible to cook on such a stove - the room will become hot and stuffy.

If the oven is mainly used for cooking, it is recommended to use a minimum amount of fireclay bricks!

Views

There are many varieties of heating and cooking stoves, every stove-maker probably has in stock several proven drawings and diagrams, according to which he does the masonry with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all put together on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.

Swedish oven

"Swede" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, preparing a variety of food, and drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out for trifles, the stove is equipped with a hob, an oven, and perfectly heated niches-stoves. Moreover, its smoke channels are made in such a way that the furnace body heats up evenly from bottom to top, thanks to which a stable temperature is kept in the room.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and is separated from it by a thin layer of masonry. The arch of the firebox is formed by a stove located in a niche. Immediately after the start of the firebox, the hob and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.

In winter time when the furnace is fully loaded, the initial the room is heated by convection flows from the stove and oven, after the end of the firebox - due to the heated walls of the oven. The hob does not overheat at the same time as air constantly circulates over it.

In summer, the oven is mainly used for cooking.... In this case, intense convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and for a good heating of the stove, a small amount of fuel is sufficient. The oven also warms up, creating a zone at the exit from the firebox high temperature, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. At the same time, the furnace body heats up slightly.

Diagram and drawings of the masonry of a Swedish-type stove with their own hands are shown in the figure.

For laying a classic "Swede" with your own hands you need:

corpulent red brick, grade M 150 - 580 pieces;
clay-based dry masonry mixture - 200 kg;
cast iron grate;
firebox door;
blower door;
cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
welded sheet metal oven;
chimney valve - 2 pcs;
cleaning - 3 pieces;
equal-flange steel corner 40 mm - 170 cm;
steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
roofing iron.

The foundation for the Swede is made solid, of concrete... Under the foundation, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with two-layer reinforcement from a bar. Before laying the foundation, stand for at least 20 days to gain strength.

Level the foundation with a screed with the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to insulate the furnace from concrete, otherwise it will take up a significant part of the heat.

Perform it like this:

a 3-4 mm thick sheet of asbestos is placed on the foundation with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace from the sides and back and 60 cm from the side of the firebox;
a heat reflector is laid on asbestos - foil or thin galvanized;
followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
a sheet of roofing iron with the same indents as asbestos;
on top of the iron - technical felt impregnated with clay milk to the size of the oven.

On top of the felt, after it dries, they begin laying the furnace according to the scheme-order:
First two rows- solid. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth- install the blower door, cleanings and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke channels, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. 7th row put the firebox door, fix it in 8 and 9 rows, continue to lay out the channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To install it correctly, you must first fold the brick on dry, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.

For the convenience of masonry, bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and recesses are selected with the help of a grinder for laying the slab so that a gap of 5 mm remains on all sides. After that, the row is collected on a masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on an clay-asbestos slurry. For its preparation, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar, diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check its level. If the burners are of different sizes, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one above the oven.

Rules for laying the hob: video

12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and smoke channels. Over 16 rows lay a sheet of flat slate to fit the niche, and in 17 and 18 rows lay it with a brick, forming the ceiling of the furnace. Further masonry lead according to the scheme up to 30 rows, in which they put a valve, after which they proceed to the laying of the required height.

Small cooking stove

At the cottage or at summer kitchen the oven can only be installed for one purpose - cooking... In this case, there is no need to waste material on the smoke circulation. An excellent model of the cooking oven is presented in order.

This multifunctional wood stove has several functions: you can cook and roast on the hob, you can bake in the oven, and it also has a built-in water tank.

The sketch of the facade shows its elements:

1 - firebox;
2 - ash pan and blower;
3 - oven;
4 - water tank;
5 - cleaning door.

The design and type of heating the furnace resembles a "Swedish", but without smoke channels... The heated smoke goes directly into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located at the back, which allows you to bring the pipe through the wall with your own hands, observing fire safety standards.

On such a stove no more than 250 pieces of bricks are required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without erecting a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: a felt impregnated with a liquid clay solution is laid on the floor, and a sheet of roofing iron is laid on it. Laying begins on top of the sheet.

First two rows, like the Swede, solid. In the 3rd row install cleaning, at 4 and 5- ash pan door, form the smoke circulation and exit to the chimney. In the 6th row make the overlap of the ash pan door, install the oven and water tank. 7th row a grate is placed on the bottom of the furnace, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, put the firebox door. 11 row- overlap over the firebox door, oven and tank. Also, in the 11th row, a recess is made for laying the slab.

The top of the stove is covered with a cast iron hob with two knobs. They are selected so that the maximum heated one is located above the firebox. Place the slab with a 5 mm gap on a clay mortar with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov ovens

Fundamentally new design furnaces are implemented in. Unlike ducted ones, they are devoid of a complex system of internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - hoods. For this feature, Kuznetsov's stoves are called bell stoves. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and summer cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually giving off heat. This causes uneven heating, and sometimes destruction of the furnace elements. If the length of the channels is insufficient, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool down, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.

In bell-type structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded from above by an overlap, and from below it has an exit. The hot gas at the top of the bell gradually cools down, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually goes down. Gas circulation in bell-type furnaces Kuznetsova is shown in the figure.

For full-fledged heat transfer in Kuznetsov's stoves, not one, but two or three bells are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna stoves, and horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating- cooking ovens, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of the hoods.

The hob is located either above the firebox, or forms the arch of the lower bell. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Do-it-yourself masonry orders, as well as photos of the most popular Kuznetsov furnace designs, are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

Video: laying of Kuznetsov's heating and cooking stove

Video: Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a village house, as well as recreation areas in a bathhouse or in the country. In the presence of a diagram, drawings, ordering and detailed instructions it can be folded with your own hands, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

Did you like the article? Share it

Print article