Tomatoes were sick last summerlate blight , alternate and what is especially alarming is the outbreakbacterial tomato cancer .

Three years ago I settled in a greenhousecladosporium , a very common disease.

In addition to these "gifts", you can list a lot of others: viroses, mycoses, bacteriosis, phytoplasmosis, wilting, nematodosis - and each of these areas has dozens of severe diseases that are caused by pathogenic microbes.

But, as they say, the Lord created "a pair of each creature." Scientists are looking for andfind useful microbes that can destroy the pathogen, or at least restrain its spread.

I already wrote in last year's magazine a large article about the cabbage trouble of a nationwide scale -vascular and mucous bacteriosis ... Cabbage is my favorite crop and I am working hard to save it.from pests (I cover the planted seedlings with spunbond) andfrom diseases using bacteria in the preparationPlanriz ... Try before sowing cabbage seeds, i.e. until mid-March to find this microbiological preparation.

Insofar as vascular and mucous bacterioses are transmitted throughthe seeds , then it is imperative to pickle them with Planriz before sowing. As soon as shoots appear, carefully examine them. Cotyledon leaves should be wide, evenly colored, without any spots or chlorosis.

Otherwise, immediately spray them with Planriz's solution, which includes bacteria from the pseudomonad family, they produce several types of antibiotics and growth stimulants, thanks to which the plants recover. We make two sprays with Planriz at an interval of 20 days.

Planriz can be used to prevent not only bacterial diseases, but also fungal (black leg, wilting, root and fruit rot). I processed apples with these microbes a day before they were removed from the tree so that they did not rot during storage. I treated strawberries with Planriz before harvesting from gray rot; cucumbers - from root rot; cloves of garlic before planting them in the ground.

I want to draw special attention to the fact that this drug hasno waiting period , i.e. it is absolutely harmless and because it has a short shelf life. Therefore, be sure to check before buying it.its expiration date .

Bacteria from the familypseudomonas are part of my favorite drugAgate - 25 ... Whoever sprays them all the plants 2 times a month will always have a harvest.Planriz can be used together with pest poisons. For example, withDecis .

Bacteria of this family are included in another biological product -Pseudobacterin - 2 ... This is my wand - a lifesaver in the fight against a very nasty, intractable disease in tomatoes -cladosporiosis (olive, or brown spot).

Pseudobacterin - 2 is recommended for soaking the seeds of cucumbers and tomatoes from root rot and for spraying these crops against olive spot. I draw your attention: the shelf life of the drug is only 45 days, and the storage temperature is 4-5 O , i.e. you need to store it in the refrigerator or cellar.

Bacteria Bacillus subtilis(hay stick) our summer residents know well. On its basis, the drugs Baktofit, Fitosporin, Alirin B, Gamair work.

- fusarium wilt (root rot),

- fruit rot (cucumbers and tomatoes),

- powdery mildew, ascochitis,

- late blight and tomato blight,

- cucumber anthracnose.

Plants threefold spill a solution of drugs. The first time is after sowing seeds (soil). The second time - seedlings after disembarking to a permanent place. Third time - fruiting plants at the beginning of fruit laying.

These drugs are onlyrestrain the development of pathogens, therefore it is important to apply them several times and from the very beginning of the growing season. If you miss the processing time, it will be too late. If signs of a disease appear, it cannot be stopped by these means.

And what biological means of protecting tomatoes are there frombacterial cancer and stem pith necrosis ? These diseases in the past summer have shown their incredible harmfulness. God forbid they appear in your greenhouse.

What are their symptoms?

Typical diagnostic sign the disease is the darkening of the affected vessels. Cut off the shoot or leaf of the tomato closer to the stalk and look at the cut: is there a brown vascular ring, yellow core, emptiness?

The first symptoms appear in the one-sided wilting of the leaf lobules, while the wilting leaf lobules turn yellow along the edge and slightly curl. Sick leaves turn brown, dry up,but do not fall ... Pay attention to the stems of the tomato, dark stripes become visible on them, which later rupture, and liquid flows out of the cracks, which contain pathogenic bacteria, they lead to the further spread of this severe infection.

First, the lower leaves are affected, then, as bacteria - pathogens move up the vessels, dark ulcers appear on the petioles, and then on the fruits of tomatoes.

Another, more common and more dangerous form of injuryfruit - internal, when infectious bacteria from the vessels penetrate into the fetus. Such fruits have an ugly shape, and the seeds in them are underdeveloped and not germinating. Many fruits fall off.

If the defeat of tomatoes by bacterial cancer occurs later, i.e. somewhere in the month of August, the fruits may outwardly have a normal appearance, but the cords of blood vessels leading to the seed chambers turn yellow from white, and the fruits become tasteless. The main danger here is that the seeds from such fruits remain viable. Summer residents can collect them for divorce and thus contribute to the spread of this disease.

Protective measures ... There are currently no known tomato hybrids that are resistant to this disease. Therefore, try not to infect the greenhouse.

Air it out more often! Even on cool May and June days.

What should be done when signs of damage appear?

- Reduce the concentration of nutrient solutions, do not water with a solution of weeds, do not introduce organic matter, i.e. take awaynitrogen from the nutrient solution.

- Use garden shears to remove stepchildren, dip them in iodine solution more often. Do not break stepchildren with your hands.

- Do not pinch plants in the morning when they are wet with condensation.

I am so afraid of the appearance of this disease in my greenhouses that I began to take a bottle of brilliant green with me and lubricate the wounds after cutting off the lower leaves. Most often, bacterial cancer gets to our site with seeds. Therefore, be sure to disinfect them before sowing. We will tell you how to do this correctly in the next issue of our magazine.

If you did not disinfect the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, thennecessarily do it in the spring. Read about it in our spring magazines.

In the meantime, I want to give one more advice: choose tomato seeds withgenerative growth since they are less affected by bacteriosis, their leaves do not curl into a ram's horn in the heat. Carefully read the information on the back of the package, where seed producers must tell us what type of growth a given variety or hybrid belongs to. Unfortunately, such information is provided to us only by reputable firms that tradeprofessional seeds.

Now hundreds of new small companies have appeared on the seed market in Russia, which are engaged in their packaging. They catch, as a rule, novice summer residents on bright packages and silly promising texts - fairy tales on the back of the package.

Professionals don't behave like that. Their characteristics are restrained, they are given only in essence, they are aimed at helping us in the cultivation of a given variety, or hybrid. Tomatoes should taste like tomatoes, not watermelons!

For my part, I try to invite shops selling quality seeds to my magazine.

Today our guide to the world of professional seeds will be Sergey Yuryevich Tsarevsky (Biotechnology, Kinel).

Plant diseases lead to loss of harvest and death of the plant itself - long work will be wasted. That is why you need to know them well and be able to deal with them. The article describes the ten most common plant diseases, their signs and treatment.

I invite you to the Subscribe.ru group for summer residents, gardeners: "Country hobbies"

Plants, like any living thing, are susceptible. And as in any case with a disease, the best way is prevention or detection of the disease at an early stage. But if this moment is missed? What to do and how to treat?

First, you need to recognize what kind of infection, bacteria or fungus has overcome the plant.

Below is a list of the most common diseases.

Plant diseases and their treatment. The most common diseases

1. Septoria. It can be easily identified by the yellow spots on the leaves that begin to dry out. It is necessary to treat a diseased plant with half percent copper oxychloride or one percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Powdery mildew. It is characterized by a white bloom carried by the errsife fungus. Ordinary laundry soap or soda ash will help to cope with it.

3. Gray rot or botrytis. This disease is distinguished by a fluffy gray coating. Plants with this disease must be treated with Bordeaux liquid, boric acid or a half-percent solution of copper oxychloride.

4. Rust. It is tolerated by a puncture fungus. True to its name, the disease manifests itself in the form of rust-colored spots that eat up holes in the leaves. During the growing season, the plant must be treated with copper chloride, before bud break - with iron cuparos.

5. Curliness of leaves. Usually phlox plants are susceptible to it. The symptom is curled leaves that begin to turn yellow. This disease is very difficult to treat, so the diseased plant must be isolated.

6. Jaundice. Asters often become its victims. As in the previous case, it is better to destroy diseased plants so that they do not infect healthy ones.

7. White spot. It can be identified by its round white spots. The pathogen easily dies when treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux liquid.

8. Black leg. This disease is manifested by root rot. The best treatment would be a 3% copper sulfate solution or a 0.04% cryptalon solution.

9. Penicillous rot. Plant bulbs are exposed to it. The only treatment is prevention, which consists in a thorough examination of the bulbs before planting.

10. Verticillary wilting. If signs of this disease appear on the plant, then they must be separated and destroyed, and healthy ones should be watered with water with the addition of Bordeaux liquid.

The season is coming! The season is not only gardening, but also mosquito, fly and gadfly ...))) Yes, soon in all the gardens of the country we will endure the bites of mosquitoes, gadflies and annoying flies!

It is known that you can fight all pests with chemistry, but

• firstly, it is harmful to our health,
• secondly, it is harmful to the environment,
• thirdly, in such a struggle, we also exterminate beneficial insects

So what do you do? And there is a way out! Nature thought of everything for us a long time ago! The main thing is to learn to read the Book of Nature!

We consider many plants to be weeds, and as a result, the more well-groomed the site, the more pests. And Nature has taken care of this for a long time and solved the problem. Green Pharmacy, not only heals, but also has repellent properties.

Plants containing certain specific substances are called repellents.... Phytoncides, standing out in environment, have a depressing or irritating effect on certain animals.

As a result, many pests "without a fight" leave the occupied territory and go in search of a better life.

The best way to drive out pests is to plant next to cultivated plants the most suitable repellents.

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Role of plants - repellents!

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First of all, these plants play the role of defenders! They protect our gardens and vegetable gardens, as soon as they are planted in certain areas of our gardens. Who are they protecting from?

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From whitefly

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An infusion of garlic is effective. Chopped garlic cloves (150-170 g) pour 1 liter of water and leave in a tightly sealed container for five days.

For spraying, 6 g of concentrate diluted in 1 liter of water is enough. Keep in mind that folk remedies can help if there are not too many pests.

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It is more effective to plant repellent plants nearby: nasturtium, peppermint, thyme, wormwood.

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From cabbage white

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10 g of white mustard powder is infused for two days in 1 liter of water, filtered and before spraying, 200 ml of solution is brought to a volume of 1 liter

Good results are obtained with chamomile infusion and hellebore infusion. For 10 liters of water, take either 1 kg of raw, or 500 g of semi-dry, or 100-250 g of dry hellebore.

This solution is insisted for about two days or boiled for 30 minutes. The broth or infusion is filtered and used for spraying.

It is more effective to plant repellent plants nearby: celery, tomatoes, peppermint, sage, wormwood and medicinal.

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From the cabbage caterpillar

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repellent plants: onion, sage, tansy, thyme, medicinal wormwood, nasturtium.

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From the earthen flea

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when flea beetles appear, the plants are pollinated using sifted wood ash, tobacco dust (in equal proportions) against dew.

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And one more recipe for an old, undeservedly forgotten means of fighting a wide variety of insects:

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In an enamel or metal container with a capacity of at least 5 liters, boil 1-2 liters of water, dissolve 200 grams of laundry or green soap in it and bring to a boil, after which 200 grams of kerosene is added.

The mixture is forced to boil two to three times by removing from the heat as it rises above the level of the pan with foam. The resulting emulsion concentrate is diluted with warm (30-40 °) water to 10 liters.

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But more effective: plant repellent plants nearby: catnip, peppermint, wormwood and medicinal, tobacco, tansy, head and leaf lettuce.

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From the five-point hawk moth

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nice results gives an infusion of calendula and peppermint. For 10 liters of water, take either 1 kg of raw, or 500 g of a semi-dry mixture of plants.

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But it is more effective to plant repellent plants nearby: dill, borage, basil.

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Colorado potato beetle

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for successful use folk remedies and methods of combating the Colorado potato beetle, it is necessary to fulfill a number of simple requirements when using them.

1) It is recommended to process plantings in warm (at a temperature of 18-25 ° C), calm weather, in the morning after the dew dries or in the evening before it appears. It is better to spray herbal preparations in the evening hours, since in the sun they quickly lose their insecticidal properties.

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2) Working solutions must be prepared 1-3 hours before spraying. For their better adhesion, green (potassium), laundry soap, liquid soap or washing powder... Usually 20-40 g per 10 l of solution. Having previously adjusted and diluted the soap in a jar of water, pour it into the working solution.

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3) The treatment with infusions and decoctions is repeated after 5-10 days as needed. The last spraying is carried out 20 days before harvest.

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Folk ways to combat the Colorado potato beetle:

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For a week or two before planting potatoes in the garden, dig several holes up to 10 cm deep. The ground around them is sprinkled with hot coal ash and slag taken from the furnace of a boiler or stove. Beetles slide into these holes and die. In the same way, peat or wood ash has a detrimental effect on the pest.

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In the spring, before the emergence of potato shoots, 3-4 pieces of tubers are placed in half-liter jars. Then the banks at 10-11 o'clock are placed on the site in the recesses previously dug in the ground. Beetles caught in banks are destroyed.

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It is recommended to soak tuber slices in spring for 1 day in a urea solution. Spread out on the site in cloudy weather or overnight. The beetle dies by attacking the poisoned bait. This method is repeated in the fall after harvest. (CHEMISTRY)

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An infusion of wormwood with ash is also used: a glass of wood ash is added to 150-200 g of chopped fresh wormwood, everything is poured hot water, insist for 2-3 hours, stir, filter and spray the potato bushes with the resulting liquid.

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Potato bushes can be pollinated with sifted ash (preferably birch). About 10 kg of ash per 1 hundred square meters of plantings. (1 kg per 10 square meters). After a day or two, not only the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle die, but also most of the adults. Pour wood ash into the furrows together with organic matter. Soil, flavored in this way, is fatal to the beetle.

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After hilling around each bush, scatter 1 tbsp. spoonful of ash. When the stems rise by about 15-18 cm, the planting is sprayed with ash and soap infusion.

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Gives good results spraying potatoes with infusion of fresh leaves walnut... Leaves, fruits and walnut shells are used to combat the Colorado potato beetle. Since autumn, fallen leaves are harvested and stored in a dry, ventilated place. 3-4 weeks before the mass appearance of the beetle, the leaves are soaked in a bucket (2 kg per 10 l of water). Before use, the infusion is filtered twice.

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The Colorado potato beetle does not tolerate marigolds (this plant is also called calendula). Where the potato beds are "circled" with a row of calendula, they are additionally "stitched" along the diagonals with this flower, there is no pest, although the neighboring plantings are affected by the Colorado potato beetle.

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Colorado potato beetle and beans planted next to potatoes are scared away. In addition, potatoes are more productive from such a neighborhood, and beans are not superfluous on the farm.

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Plant sidun beans in the aisles of potatoes (or in rows of bushes). These two cultures grow without interfering with one another. But the beetles do not tolerate beans and leave the site.

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In a bucket of water (10 l), dissolve 100 g of birch tar. The plantings are sprayed with a solution 3 times a week.

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Good results are obtained by using a 4% solution of chicken manure (about 80 buckets per one hundred square meters). In the cases described, the beetle disappears for several years (up to 10 years). Processing should be carried out only after harvest.

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But it is easier and more effective to plant repellent plants next to it: catnip, coriander, nasturtium, onion, tansy, horseradish, vegetable beans, white bean.

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From moles

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Old grandfather's, truly natural way... One must liken oneself to an animal. They (mostly males) mark their territory to scare away and warn their own kind. And we mark - with urine (male), pouring it into mole holes. The effectiveness of the method exceeds expectations.

Throughout the site, in a spread of 2 - 3 m, we drive thin metal rods, empty beer cans into the ground, put it upside down. Any breeze shaking the cans creates a very unpleasant noise for moles.

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A reliable remedy is to get a dog. People who have done this say they have forgotten what a mole is and how to deal with it. Apparently the dog also marks its territory with urine.

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Any bottle is dug into the ground, into the hole of a mole at an angle of 45 degrees. Howling wind in empty bottles, scares this animal away

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Not a bad way - a piece of the usual water pipe and plastic bottle... Pieces of pipes are driven into the ground so that their lower end is deeper than the level of the animal's moves. A pin with a diameter of 8-10 mm is hammered into the upper part of the pipe, reinforcing it in the center of the pipe with a wooden stopper. With a hot nail or metal pin, burn a hole in the bottom of the bottle with a diameter larger diameter pin. On the bottle, slits are made along a solid line, and plastic is folded along the dotted line. There should be 4 such bends. At the slightest breath of wind, the bottle rotates, the hollow pipe resonates and creates a noise that the animals are afraid of.

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But it is more effective to plant repellent plants nearby: castor oil plant, daffodils.

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How to get rid of ants in your garden:

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Loosen their nest and sprinkle with lime or tobacco dust;

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Ants do not tolerate strong odors. On the anthill, you can put the head of a smoked herring, garlic cloves cut into several pieces, spread the tops of tomato or parsley leaves;

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A decoction of tomato tops helps well. The more concentrated the solution, the better;

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Take corrugated cardboard about 20 cm wide, sprinkle it with soot solution or powder with cinnamon. Ants cannot stand the smell of soot and cinnamon;

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Not a very pleasant way, but you can water the nests of ants with urine, it often helps;

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Make a solution: take ten liters of water, two glasses vegetable oil, some cheap shampoo and vinegar. Poke a hole in the center of the anthill and pour this mixture into it. Cover with foil for several days;

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Bring large red ants from the forest and settle in the garden, and after that the black ants will leave your territory by themselves

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Plant repellent plants nearby: Peppermint and spikelet, tansy, wormwood, lavender, valerian peppermint and spikelet, tansy, wormwood, lavender, valerian.

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From cabbage fly larva

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Sprinkle the soil under the plants with ordinary wood ash, which has double benefits for cabbage: it repels cabbage flies and is a good fertilizer.

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Exclusion of radish from crop rotation, which most attracts cabbage flies.

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To scare off flies, sprinkle with naphthalene, after mixing it with sand in a ratio of 5-8 parts of sand and 1 part of naphthalene; instead of naphthalene, tobacco dust is used in a mixture with an equal amount of lime (300 g of mixture per 10 m2).

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You can also soak peat chips with creolin (200 g per bucket of peat) and sprinkle around the plants.

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In the fight against larvae, a tobacco solution is also used: 200 g of tobacco and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of soap for 10 liters hot water... The drug is filtered and sprayed with plants and soil.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: garlic, marigolds, radishes, sage, wormwood, hyssop.

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From the carrot fly

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You can prepare a spray solution from dry tomato plants. Pour 1 kg of dry mass with 10 liters of water, leave for 4-5 hours, then boil for 2-3 hours over low heat, dilute with water 2 times, add 30-40 g of soap per 10 liters of solution. The broth remains toxic to pests for a year when stored in a cool place.

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Sowing carrots early or late in dry, non-shaded areas. Sowing is important to immediately make it thin: then you do not have to thin out the plants, during which a strong smell of carrots appears, and a large number of flies flock to it.

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To scare off carrot flies, the aisles are dusted with ground hot pepper or ash.

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Spray the soil and plants with infusions of black or red pepper (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), garlic, onion peel, marigolds, tomato tops, wild rosemary, spruce and pine needles and other odorous plants. But in order for the smell of these herbs to stay over the carrot bed constantly, it must be sprayed every three days.

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Pour chopped bitter wormwood with boiling water. Infusion process the beds.

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Between the rows of carrots, especially in May and June, add pest repelling agents: mustard, ground red or black pepper (1 tsp).

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It is great if onions, garlic or tomatoes will grow next to the carrot bed.

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To protect crops from carrot flies, which cause a lot of trouble, onion is placed on one side of the garden bed on a green feather, on the other - garlic;

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Plant repellent plants nearby: lettuce, leeks, onions, rosemary, sage, tobacco, wormwood.

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Wasps, hornets, gadflies, horseflies and bees

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All of them are similar in many ways, and therefore the methods of struggle do not differ.

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If a wasp, bee or gadfly flies up to you, stay calm, stay still, do not wave your arms or make sudden movements - this can provoke aggression.

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After swimming in the river, wipe your body dry immediately, it attracts insects, like sweat and various perfumes. They don't like pungent odors.

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Lubricate exposed areas of the body with any cologne to which a little peppermint oil or peppermint drops have been added (5 drops per tablespoon of cologne). The remedy lasts for about an hour.

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You can make a wasp trap. Take 250 ml of water, 4 teaspoons of honey and a little vinegar. Heat water, dissolve honey, cool, add vinegar. Pour the solution into a dark glass bottle and place it near where the wasps are robbing.

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If found in or near the house vespiary, wait until it gets dark and the wasps gather in the nest, soak a cloth in turpentine, wind it around the end of the pole and plug the entrance tightly with it. Leave in this form for a day (But in my opinion, this is not humane!)

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If wild bees, wasps, hornets are trying to arrange their home next to you, plant a bush of peppermint or plucked greens.

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But given that the benefits of wasps are not commensurate with the inconveniences from their neighborhood, it is best to contact a beekeeper. They know how to handle them. In the evening, they fumigate, put a bag on the nest, cut the nest to disconnect it and take it away into the forest. The bag is left untied along with the nest, hurrying away. All this time you should be in a mosquito net, tight clothing and gloves.

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If this is a garden plot, plant repellent plants nearby: peppermint.

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From mice

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It is good to prepare bait from vegetable oil, flour and gypsum, which will solidify in the rodent's stomach and cause death (I AM AGAINST DARE!) A similar remedy: spread a mixture of alabaster and sugar (or flour) near the holes and place a saucer with water next to it.

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Rats and mice cannot stand the smell of mothballs and mint, which can also be used as rodent control agents.

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Finely chop the cork and fry it in pork fat. Then toss the bait to the mouse holes. After eating the cork, the mice immediately die from the swollen mass in the stomach.

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Scatter hot peppers and dried chamomile flowers along the trajectory of the possible movement of rodents, scatter thistles of thistles in the corners of the rooms.

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Quicklime is mixed with sugar and scattered in places of greatest concentration of rodents. Mice and rats willingly eat the bait and soon die. The quicklime in the stomach is heated by the action of water and gastric juice, causing the death of the animal.

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When using means of struggle such as mousetraps, it should be remembered that mice have an extremely keen sense of smell and will try to stay away from the mousetrap, which their fellow tribesman has fallen into. Therefore, when reinstalling the trap, you need to pour boiling water over it, and take the bait with gloves so as not to leave your smell on it.

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In the garden, plant repellent plants next to it: at home, where we keep the food, lay out dry twigs: bitter wormwood, garlic, rank, daffodils.

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From apple honey

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To destroy the larvae in the period from budding to flowering, sprinkle the plants with infusion of yarrow, ash, tobacco, makhorka, and soap solution.

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Winged flies and those that returned to lay eggs can be destroyed with tobacco smoke. Pour 1.5-2 kg of tobacco waste on the previously prepared heaps of straw and fumigate for two hours two plants on which adult suckers live. The coppersmiths, stunned by the smoke, fall to the ground. Now it is important to immediately collect them from the ground under the plants, otherwise many will wake up and rise to the crown.

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Some gardeners use spraying with hot pepper infusion (1 kg of fresh or 0.5 kg of dry red pepper per 10 liters of water). The infusion is boiled for 1 hour over low heat, then insisted for 24 hours. The resulting concentrate can be bottled and stored in a cool dark place. Before spraying, 125 g of concentrate and 40 g of laundry soap are added to 10 liters of water. Plants are sprayed at intervals of 10-15 days.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: black henbane, common harmala, creeping bitterness, vine clematis, medicinal dandelion, bittersweet nightshade, real tobacco, garlic.

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From nematodes

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We arrange a quarantine for new plants. Disinfection of dishes, tools (the simplest measure is scalding with boiling water). Sterilization of the substrate in a water bath at a temperature of + 50-55C for at least 10 minutes.

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After spraying the plants, let them dry quickly, with low temperatures keep plants in relatively dry conditions.

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Nematodes are very sensitive to high temperature, they can be killed by a 30-minute water bath with a water temperature of 45 C.

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Among garden plants everyone knows how hostile to nematodes, erect marigolds and asparagus. They can be planted between rows or for the entire season to occupy a site intended for potatoes to destroy the pest.

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Well-made, ripe compost is an effective preparation. Therefore, where the soil is fertilized with compost, the risk of mass spread of nematodes is minimized.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: marigolds, calendula, erect marigolds, asparagus.

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From the apple moth

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After the end of the collection of fruits - collection and destruction of the remnants of the packaging material; cleaning dead bark from boles and twigs on old trees.

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Mulching of row spacings and minimal tillage of the soil in near-trunk circles.

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Satisfactory results are achieved by hanging special pheromone vaporizers on trees (polyethylene and rubber tubes, rings, cords, paper tapes with a consumption of 20-100 g / ha of pheromone) in order to disorient the males.

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To destroy the caterpillars of the first generation in the second decade of June, belts are applied to the stems of productive trees. They can be tricky, requiring periodic viewing, and suicidal. For the manufacture of hunting belts, they take paper, gauze, burlap, matting and other materials.

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Most of the moth caterpillars gather under belts made of burlap and old cloth. The belts are applied at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground, they are examined weekly, crawled caterpillars are selected and destroyed.

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Suicide belts are applied to trees at least 15 years old. To prepare the belts, wrapping paper is used, cutting it 40-45 cm wide, and one of the longitudinal halves is impregnated on both sides with the chlorophos composition - 1.5%, preparation No. 30 - 5%, earth - 50% and water - 43.5% ... The belts applied to the trees with the oiled side ensure the death of the apple moth and other pests that have crawled under them throughout the season and do not require viewing.

19:2227

The fight against the apple moth can be successfully carried out with an infusion of wormwood. To do this, wormwood is harvested from the moment it blooms, dried and stored in the attic. To prepare the infusion, finely chopped plants are placed in a cauldron (half or 3/4 of the volume) and filled with water; in a day, boil for 30 minutes, cool, filter through cheesecloth and dilute with the same amount of water. The trees are sprayed at intervals of 10-12 days.

This method is effective, and in combination with light traps, it allows you to save the crop without the use of poisons.

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There is another way to deal with the apple moth. In the garden, immediately after flowering, hang jars of apple syrup seasoned with yeast. You can prepare it from apple juice of dry or green fruits, previously mashed together with the decaying part. Butterflies fly to such syrup and die in it.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: garlic, bitter wormwood.

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From slugs and snails

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A good neighbor for strawberries is parsley, if you sow it with a border around strawberry beds, then they will not be afraid of snails and slugs.

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Spread wet rags or burdock leaves between the rows of plants, on which snails have got into the habit, in the morning the mucus will hide under their shade, and you will pass and collect them in the morning.

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Arrange saucers of dark beer at night in the aisles of strawberries. Pour beer somewhere to a height of 1.5-2 cm so that the slugs drown.

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Sand and sawdust. Snails cannot crawl on sand and sawdust, so a sawdust and sand circle around the plant can be very effective.

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A regular cup of coffee will ward off pests and won't harm your plants. USDA Research Services in Hilo, Hawaii tested caffeine sprays on slugs eating houseplants. They noticed that a 1–2% solution of caffeine in two days kills almost all snails and slugs, and lower concentrations (about 0.01%) scare them away.

By comparison, a cup of instant coffee contains about 0.05% caffeine, and coffee brewed from ground beans contains even more of it. Coffee grounds can also be used as a snail repellant, but spraying with caffeine solution is much more effective: slugs crawl away, barely coming into contact with caffeinated soil.

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Caffeine can kill small snails and slugs, and scare large ones away from your garden. It is best to use caffeine for small gardens and plots. Unfortunately, it can act not only on snails and slugs, but also on beneficial insects. High concentrations (from 2%) can damage foliage and cause yellowing of plants.

20:1921

To destroy snails (slugs), sprinkle the surface of the soil with freshly slaked lime powder, in the amount of 40 quadruples per tithe. The soil is sprinkled with lime in 2 doses in the interval of 10-15 minutes. At the first sprinkling, the snail is protected from lime by secreting mucus from itself, while with the second sprinkling, the snail is no longer able to secrete mucus, it turns black and dies. By sprinkling lime in this way for two days in a row, in the morning, you can finally destroy all the snails.

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Sprinkle the ground in the evening or in damp weather with finely crushed iron sulfate mixed with sand. None of these animals will pass where iron vitriol is poured, since they die from touching this substance.

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With great pleasure hedgehogs, frogs and toads eat slugs and snails. True, in the conditions of our sites, quite often these natural enemies simply have nowhere to stick to, and therefore they bypass the gardens.

As for the hedgehogs, there is definitely no place for them on 6 acres: it is too crowded and noisy. And frogs and toads can be completely lured to your site by making some mini-shelters for them in the form of heaps of leaves and branches, or even digging a small pond.

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The most, perhaps, the simplest remedy is to sprinkle (or, rather, pollinate) the aisles with lime after rain or watering, when the slugs begin to move actively. Getting on the streaks of lime, they burn their belly and die. You can take not pure lime, but mixed with ash or tobacco dust (1: 1). In the absence of rain, the soil is treated in this way late in the evening or at night, when slugs are on the soil or on plants.

Soil cultivation is periodically repeated (after 7-15 days), which leads to the gradual death of the mollusks.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: fennel, garlic, rosemary, parsley, oak bark.

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From the scoop

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The butterfly can be caught using fermenting kvass (diluting it 3 times and adding a little yeast). Bait jars are hung in the landings. You can also catch butterflies on fermenting molasses (diluted 3 times, poured into bowls).

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Use an effective and harmless biological method to combat scoops - a trichogramma predator that destroys pest eggs. During the laying period, carry out a three-time release of Trichogramma (30-40 thousand individuals per 1 ha for each release) with an interval of 5-6 days.

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Against caterpillars younger ages each generation of scoops to use biological products: concentrated lepidocide, BA (biological activity) - 2000 EA / mg - 40-50 g per 10 l of water (1.5-2 kg / ha); bitoxibacillin, BA - 1500 EA / mg - 50 g per 10 L of water (2 kg / ha). If necessary, re-treatment should be carried out after -8 days. (The working solution must be prepared immediately before processing the plants.

22:725

Younger caterpillars can be destroyed with an infusion of wormwood. Add 1 kg of dried and crushed wormwood to a small amount of water, boil for 10-15 minutes, then cool the solution, filter and dilute with water to 10 liters. Spraying of plants is carried out several times at intervals of 7-10 days.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: shiritsa, oak bark, geraniums, marigolds, kosmeya.

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From the bear

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23:1977 23:4

Most The best way the fight against this insect is to invite a mole to the charged area :). Moreover, both have a similar habitat - both love light, soft soil, and a bear for a mole is a delicacy.

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In areas infected by Medvedka, it is impossible to feed plants with a fresh mullein - it will attract a pest from all over the area. Diluted bird droppings, on the contrary, scare away the bear (you need to water the ground with infusion of chicken droppings in dry weather).

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Marigolds sown along the borders of the site block access to the bear from neighboring territories - the bear does not tolerate the smell of marigolds.

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In autumn, when the soil temperature is at least +8 degrees, it is recommended to dig trapping pits 50-60 cm deep (100 square meters they dig at least two holes), overlaying the bottom and walls of the holes with an old film and fill the holes with rotted manure - the bear climbs into them for the winter. With the onset of stable frosts, manure with bears is scattered over the surface of the earth and the bears die from the cold. After the soil temperature drops to +5 degrees and below, the bears become inactive and mainly settle in a vertical course - this must be taken into account when making trapping pits, without postponing their digging until late autumn.

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In the spring, after mid-May, on the eve of the bear's egg-laying period, it is recommended to dig shallow holes on the site and fill them with fresh manure or chopped straw, or simply spread heaps of manure on the surface of the earth. Bears crawl into the manure to lay eggs; At first, larvae hatching from eggs do not leave their nests in heaps and feed on manure. After 3-4 weeks, the manure, along with the larvae, is removed and burned, or laid in specially equipped pits.

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In the spring, before the emergence of plant shoots, baits are prepared for the bear from corn, barley, rye, and wheat. It is important to prepare and spread the bait just before the shoots appear - otherwise, the bears begin to feed on young plants and hardly eat the bait.

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The grain is steamed until it swells and powdered with aldrin powder (50 g of powder per 1 kg of dry grains). Up to 0.8 kg of seeds are consumed per 1000 square meters, evenly distributing them over the soil surface, covered with a rake and watered. Zinc phosphide is also used as a poison (for 1 kg of dry grain - 50 g of the drug, adding 3% sunflower oil); mix thoroughly and close up to a depth of 3-5 cm. Medvedki find bait by smell, eat it and die. Poisoned insects are regularly collected from the surface of the earth and destroyed so that they are not pecked and poisoned by birds. (CHEMISTRY AGAIN!)

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In the summer, this method of dealing with the bear is also used: a few drops of sunflower oil are poured into the hole in the path of the bear, and 1-2 liters of water are immediately poured from the watering can. After a few minutes, the bear comes out to the surface of the soil and dies.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: marigolds, garlic.

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From aphids

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In addition to special preparations to combat aphids, which are sold in stores, various infusions are also used, which are prepared on the basis of available means. These methods of struggle are harmless, environmentally friendly.

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Soap solution. Dissolve 25-30 g of household soap in 1 liter of water (soft).

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Ash and soap solution. 30 g of ash of soft trees (or 15 g of hard wood) pour 1 liter of hot water, bring to a boil, strain the solution and dissolve 25-30 g of laundry soap in it.

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Dry mustard. 60 g of powder is brewed with a liter of water and insisted for three days in a tightly sealed container, dissolving the infusion in three liters of water, spray the plant.

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Infusion of wood ash: 3 kg of wood ash is poured into 10 liters of hot water, kept for two days, filtered and sprayed or washed by plants.

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Ash broth: 2-3 kg of wood ash are poured into 10 liters of water, boiled for 30 minutes, defended and the plants are treated with a cooled solution.

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Infusion of garlic: 200-300 g of unpeeled heads of garlic are finely chopped and poured over with two liters of water. After a day, the mass is squeezed out, 8 liters of water and 20-30 g of laundry soap are added to the solution. To process plants, the finished solution is diluted: 8 liters of water are added to two liters of the solution.

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Infusion of onions or garlic. Insist 100 g of onion husks or 75 g of finely chopped onions or garlic under a lid in 5 liters of water for 24 hours, strain. Spray 3 times at weekly intervals.

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Infusion of tobacco: 400 g of tobacco or makhorka is infused in 10 liters of hot water for two days (you can insist for a day, and then boil for 2 hours). Before spraying, filter the infusion, if boiled, dilute with water (1: 1), and add 30-40 g of laundry soap.

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Infusion of potato tops: 1-2 kg of green tops not affected by diseases are infused for 3-4 hours in water (the tops are placed tightly in the container and filled with water to cover the tops). Use a freshly prepared infusion.

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Coniferous infusion: 200 g of pine or spruce needles are crushed, poured with 2 liters of warm water, infused for 6 days in a tightly sealed container, then squeezed and filtered. Before processing, dilute with water to 20 liters. Plants are treated with an interval of 3-7 days.

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Infusion of pepper: 1 kg of raw or dry fruits of pepper is boiled for 1 hour in 10 liters of water in a sealed container. Insist for two days, filter. For processing plants, 0.5 l of infusion is diluted with 10 l of water and 40 g of laundry soap is added.

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Infusion of citrus peels: 100 g of dry mandarin, orange or lemon peels pour 1 liter of warm water and insist under the lid for 3 days. How to use: Spray the plant as needed.

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Tar soap - 40 g of soap per 1 liter of water.

All infusions are designed for a large number of plants and a huge amount of water. But these proportions can always be recalculated for the amount you need.

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Aphids are eaten by adults and larvae of ladybugs, hoverflies, lacewings, as well as several species of wasps. Plant aromatic herbs, nettles, and green manures to naturally attract these insects and birds to your garden.

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Plant aphid-friendly plants away from the crops you want to protect from these pests. Aphids are especially fond of nasturtium, cosmea, sleeping poppy, mallow, tuberous begonias.

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Viburnum and linden are the favorite aphids. Never plant aphid-prone high-value crops in the vicinity of these trees.

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Some plants will repel aphids. Among them are traditional onions and garlic, as well as Dalmatian chamomile.

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Plant repellent plants nearby: catnip, coriander, chives, fennel, garlic, marigolds, mustard, nasturtium, mint.

Floral plants are often affected by diseases, which, depending on the causes that cause them, can be divided into infectious and non-infectious.

Infectious diseases plants are caused by the smallest organisms: fungi, bacteria, viruses. In the presence of favorable conditions, they are able to quickly move from one plant to another and form large foci of infection.

Not infectious diseases most often occur due to improper care of flowers.
Diseases on flowers can manifest themselves in the form of wilting on plants, the withering away of areas or individual organs, rot, spotting, various plaques, deformations, the formation of growths, etc.

List of infectious diseases

• Vascular wilting
• Gray rot
• Powdery mildew
• Rust
• Spotting
• Infectious burn
• Bacterial cancer
• Rhizome and root rot
• Diseases of the planting material
• Viral diseases.

I have listed almost all infectious diseases that affect flowers in our dachas. Armed with knowledge, you can prevent plant diseases in your garden plots and effectively combat their manifestations.

Let us dwell in detail on the description of infectious diseases of flowering plants.

Black leg flower plant

Seedlings of flowering plants are susceptible to this disease. The disease manifests itself in the blackening and decay of the roots of the neck of young plants. Later, the stem becomes thinner at the place of blackening, and the plant withers.

Most often, this disease manifests itself in flowers that are grown in greenhouses. And why? Because it is in greenhouses that high humidity, poor ventilation, high temperature, heavy soil are observed.

Control measures.
- Agrotechnics of growing seedlings should be strictly observed.
- Remove and destroy diseased plants. Pour the remaining seedlings with 0.2% potassium permanganate or daily infusion of onions (300 g onions per 10 liters of water).

– Folk method elimination of ““.

Vascular wilt of plants

The disease manifests itself in defeat vascular system... The pathogens penetrate the plant from the soil, colonize the conducting vessels and cause changes in the form of yellowing and drying of the lower leaves and wilting of the entire plant. Then the lower part of the stem near the root collar darkens and a fungus bloom appears on the affected area.

Fusarium wilting affects many plants, especially gladioli, asters, carnations. Plants get sick at any age, but more often at the stage of budding and flowering. Hot weather contributes to the spread and development of the disease.

Vascular wilting affects about 150 plant species. Among flowers, wilting is common on asters, carnations, chrysanthemums, dahlias, peonies, sweet peas, snapdragons, etc.

Control measures.
- It is necessary to follow the agrotechnics of growing plants.
- Strictly alternate cultures, returning to their original place not earlier than after 4 years.
- Apply balanced plant nutrition, avoiding overfeeding with nitrogen.
- Regularly destroy weeds, avoid thickened plantings.
- In autumn, collect and burn plant residues - places of possible infection.
- Thoroughly prepare the soil for planting. Apply healthy planting material.

Gray rot of flowers

Many flower plants are affected, including gladioli, tulips, peonies, roses, dahlias. The affected areas turn brown, turn brown, soften. In humid weather, a bloom of gray mold appears on them. The pathogen develops on all organs - leaves, buds, stems, bulbs, corms.

Rounded or oval reddish-brown spots appear on leaves, stems and flowers, which later become lighter with a darker rim. The spots grow, merge and the leaves die off. From the leaves, the disease passes to the stems, buds, flowers. Heavily infested plants do not bloom.

High humidity contributes to the development of the disease. To a large extent, they suffer from gray rot. If, when examining the bulbs, you find that the core collapses when pressed, then this is heart rot. Naturally, such planting material must be discarded.

Tulips are infected by a mushroom

All plant organs are affected. The disease develops during the growing season and during storage. On the leaves appear small light or brown, at first rounded, then indefinite, with a dark watery edge of the spot.

In damp cold weather, the spots grow and cover the entire leaf. The same spots are formed on stems, peduncles and petals. When the base of the stem is damaged, the plant breaks off and dies.

Affected bulbs can be identified by slightly depressed yellow spots with a prominent dark brown edge. The tissues of the affected bulb darken, soften, the bulb shrivels, and small black sclerotia of the fungus appear on its surface. The source of infection are the bulbs and sclerotia of the fungus.

Irises are attacked by a mushroom

Basically, rhizomes get sick, on which rot and sclerotia appear in the form of folded piles. In the spring, the leaves of infected plants grow poorly, which subsequently dry out. In wet weather, they are covered with a gray fluffy coating at ground level.

Control measures.
- Avoid lowered areas with heavy soils.
- Follow correct watering, carry out regular loosening.
- Disease resistance is increased by feeding with phosphorus and potassium, as well as microelements.
- Dry planting material before storing
- Cull and burn diseased bulbs and corms during storage.
- When replanting irises and peonies, cut off the affected rhizomes, followed by etching in a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Powdery mildew

A white powdery coating appears on the leaves, shoots, buds of plants. Sometimes black dots are formed here - these are fruit bodies.
Many flower plants are susceptible to the disease: roses, peonies, phloxes, aquilegia, perennial asters, lupins, sweet peas, etc.

Powdery mildew is caused by a mushroom. Leaves, stems, shoots, buds are covered with a white bloom. Infected leaves dry out and fall off, plants stunted and may die. Humidity does not play a big role in the development of the disease.

In phlox, at the beginning of June, white spots appear on the leaves, which quickly spread throughout the plate, affecting the upper leaves and stems. By the end of July, and sometimes even earlier, the plant acquire a sloppy appearance and die prematurely.

In recent years, the disease has become widespread and is the most harmful of phlox diseases.

Control measures.
- During the growing season, fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
- I treat the plants with a copper-soap liquid (20 g of copper sulfate is dissolved in 0.5 liters of hot water, then 200 g of green soap is dissolved in 9.5 liters of water. A solution of copper sulfate is added to the soap solution with stirring, a total of 10 l. liquid.)
Carry out the treatment with such a liquid at least 2-3 times with an interval of 14 days.
- Three-time slurry treatments are quite effective. Pour well-rotted cow manure with water 1: 3, leave for 3-5 days, dilute three times and spray.

Rust

It affects many flower plants: mallow, chrysanthemum, irises, peonies, roses, primroses, snapdragons and other flowers.
On the leaves, stems and shoots appear orange in spring, brown in summer, brown-black raised pads in autumn - the so-called pustules of the fungus. The development of rust fungi is facilitated by waterlogging, excess nitrogen and a lack of potassium and phosphorus. The mushroom hibernates on fallen leaves and in the plants themselves.

Control measures.
- To destroy weeds - possible hosts of the fungus.
- During the growing season, treat the plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
- In late autumn or early spring, treat perennials with 1% nitrophene.

Mottling

The disease is expressed in the appearance of spots of various shapes, colors and sizes on the leaves and stems of flowering plants. As the disease progresses, they grow, merge and cause the death of not only the leaves, but even the entire plant.

Rose diseases called black spot and infectious burns are very dangerous. Black spot is caused by a fungus. Usually, by the end of summer, black spots of various sizes appear, which cause their premature fall. With a strong development of the disease, the leaves fall off in August, the dormant buds start to grow, the bushes leave weakened before winter.

Infectious burn

This disease manifests itself immediately after the removal of the winter shelter. The stems are covered with brown spots with a reddish-brown border. Later, these spots merge and ring the stem. The part of it, located above the lesion, remains green for some time. Leaves appear on it, but then dry up.

Plants weakened after wintering are damaged by an infectious burn. To a strong degree, the disease develops in a rose that is under cover for a long time at above-zero temperatures.

Red-purple spots on phlox leaves

Painful spots appear first on the lower, then on the upper leaves of phlox. They soon turn white in the middle. Infected leaves dry up and die off. The fungus causes spotting of the annual aster. Angular yellow-brown spots are formed between the veins of the leaves. The leaves dry up.

Control measures.
- To avoid an infectious burn, coverings should be partially removed from roses in early spring.
- Carry out early spring or late autumn treatment of plantations with 2% nitrophene solution or 0.6-0.8% copper oxychloride.

Bacterial cancer

With this disease, growths, such as tumors, form on the roots, root collar, sometimes on the lower part of the stem. At first, these growths are white, then darken and decompose. Disease is caused by bacteria. Dahlias and roses fall ill with cancer. In gladioli, carnations, nasturtiums, petunias, growths form on the root collar, from which many shortened weak shoots grow. This form is called overgrowth.
Bacteria can survive in the soil for many years.

Control measures.
- Avoid over-application of nitrogen fertilizers.
- Strictly check the planting material.
- Treat the wells from under diseased plants with bleach.

Rhizome and root rot

Many flower plants are affected by root rot. Diseased roots rot and die off, the ground part turns yellow and withers. Rot is caused by fungi and bacteria. Iris root rot is very harmful. The protruding roots freeze slightly, form wet rot in the form of a mushy mass, which, when dry, turns into a light powder with an unpleasant odor.

Control measures.
- Do not use heavy waterlogged soils for irises
- Remove and destroy diseased plants.
- Irises must be covered for the winter in order to prevent freezing of the roots.
- When diseased rhizomes are found, they are freed from the ground, cleaned of rot and sprinkled with crushed coal mixed with sulfur 1: 1.

Non-communicable plant diseases

Non-infectious plant diseases are caused by unfavorable environmental conditions or errors in agricultural technology.
In appearance, they can sometimes resemble infectious diseases: spots, vascular wilting, root diseases, etc.
An excess or deficiency of nutrients contributes to the abnormal development of plants.
So, for phosphorus starvation leaves become bluish-green, sometimes red-purple, plant growth is weakened, flowers and ovary fall off.

Excess potassium retards plant growth and flower development. Due to a lack of potassium, the leaves become domed, at the edges from the beginning light yellow, then brown and die off. The same is observed with an excess of boron.

Magnesium starvation manifests itself in the lightening of the leaves, and the normal color remains only along the veins. Leaves become brittle, fall off prematurely.

Lack of nitrogen slows down the growth of plants, they acquire a chlorous color. The lower leaves sag. Almost no fruits are formed. Drying of lilacs with cracking and dying off of the bark at the root collar occurs with excessive application of nitrogen.

At lack of iron the leaves turn yellow, and the veins remain green. At lack of manganese, on the contrary, the veins of the leaves brighten, as well as the flowers.

Treatment of plants with pesticides may cause necrotic spotting of leaves, buds and flowers (burns).

On heavy soils and deep planting plants experience oxygen starvation, the so-called "suffocation" of the roots of gladioli, tulips and other bulbs is observed.

Do not apply chemicals plant protection "just in case": all of them are poisonous to humans and animals to varying degrees.

If there are enough ladybugs, hoverflies, ichor flies, ground beetles and other beneficial insects in the garden, then you can not be afraid of the invasion of aphids, worms, scoops, ticks and other pests. To attract insect friends, grow dill, cilantro, watercress, testes of onions, carrots, parsley, celery, and nectar plants on the site.

To attract tits, starlings, flycatchers, wagtails and other birds to the gardens, arrange artificial nests - birdhouses, nest boxes, and it is better to fence off your neighbors not with a fence, but with a hedge of well-branching shrubs for bird dormitories.

You can protect yourself from pests and diseases not only with broths and infusions, but also with a thoughtful placement of garden and horticultural crops: onions and carrots mutually protect each other from onion and carrot flies, respectively; a raspberry planted next to an apple tree protects the tree from scab, and an apple tree protects raspberries from gray rot; onions and garlic in currant plantings scare away kidney mites; onions in the aisles of strawberries reduce the spread of gray rot; peas on the potato patch scare away the wireworm.

Jars with kefir, yogurt or sour milk, hung after flowering in the crown of apple trees, will quickly "collect" apple moths.

Mullein infusion will protect currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew(Insist 1 part of rotted manure for 3 hours in 9-10 parts of water).

Early spring (before bud break) processing of currants and gooseberries with hot water (about 80 °) - effective remedy against powdery mildew and kidney mites.

It affects strawberries, raspberries, grapes, fruit and vegetable crops. Fruits and berries are covered with a grayish moldy bloom. The causative agent of the infection persists in the soil and on plant debris. Infection occurs with spores spread by rain and wind. The disease develops especially rapidly with high soil and air humidity.

Preventive measures are very important: good lighting, sparse planting of plants, providing ventilation; moderate moisture (watering), especially during flowering and ripening of berries; mulching the soil with loose materials - straw, needles, sawdust; timely collection and destruction of affected berries.

With a significant development of the disease, it is advisable to early spring spraying the plants before the leaves grow back with 2% nitrafen or 3% Bordeaux liquid.

Fungal disease, which is especially strong in years with wet and warm spring and in the summer. The scab causative agent hibernates on fallen diseased leaves, and in pears and on young shoots. In spring, spores of the fungus germinate and olive-green velvety spots appear on the leaves; later, the apple tree leaves turn brown, and the pear tree black and fall off. Cracks appear on the fruits, especially the pear.

Of the preventive measures of control, autumn digging of near-trunk circles, collection and disposal of fallen leaves are advisable. With a strong spread of the disease, an early spring (before bud break) spraying with nitrafen is carried out; bordeaux liquid. After flowering, the plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride 0.3%, colloidal sulfur. It is very important to select varieties that are resistant to scab.

A fungal disease that is spread by hot weather with heavy rainfall. Black-brown concentric spots appear on the lower leaves of plants, and small oblong spots appear on the lower part of the stems; on fruits - dark spots with black bloom and dents.

The infection persists in the soil and on plant debris, and can be transmitted with seeds. At the beginning of the manifestation of the disease, spraying with 0.4% copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux liquid is carried out; taking into account the spread of the disease, treatment is carried out 2-3 times before planting seedlings in the ground and in the field after the plants take root. The planting of tomatoes and potatoes should not be placed next to; in greenhouse buildings, it is very important to maintain optimal humidity.

In warm, humid weather, the leaves become brown spots and droop. The disease can spread very quickly, killing the bushes; the infection spreads to the tubers, causing brownish spots. The source of the disease is a fungus that persists for a long time in seed tubers, on plant debris.

The main control measures are agrotechnical: careful selection and storage of healthy tubers, without mechanical damage; timely harvesting from tops.

In the spring, before planting, seed treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate. When the first spots of late blight appear, you can use 1% Bordeaux liquid, medex (10-15 g per 1 liter of water), polycarbacin, 80% c. p. (4 g), copper oxychloride, 90% s. n. (4 g), etc.

SLIMS

They damage vegetables, potatoes, strawberries, eating round holes in fruits and leaves; the harmfulness increases in years with wet summers and autumn. Slugs are active in the evening, at night and early in the morning, leaving traces on plants and the ground in the form of silvery stripes; go into hiding for a day.

These pests are very hygrophilous, if there is little water, they die. The greatest damage is caused in rainy years when growing plants on swampy heavy soils.

Preventive measures: cleanliness of plantings from weeds, their non-thickening, systematic loosening of the soil. Effectively trapping pests under specially arranged shelters - wet burlap, laying out pieces of slate and boards on moistened soil. In the evening, plants are pollinated with ash, fluff lime, dusty superphosphate, tobacco dust. The use of metaldehyde is very effective.

Large butterflies 5.5-6 cm in size with white wings: on the front, black corners are clearly expressed. Pupae overwinter on tree trunks and bushes, fences, walls of buildings. Butterflies fly out in late April - early May. Eggs are laid on the underside of the leaves (yellowish, about 1.2 mm, ribbed). The caterpillars first stick together, gnawing the pulp from the underside of the leaves, then creep away, often eating the leaves completely. Adult pests are yellow-green, with black spots and dots, up to 40 mm long.

Of the preventive measures, deep digging of the soil for planting is effective. Against caterpillars of younger ages, they practice two-fold (after 7-8 days) treatment of plantings with preparations of dendrobacillin, lepidocide, widely used treatment of plants with tobacco dust in half with ash, infusions and decoctions.

Sucking insects that damage currants, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries, a number of ornamental crops, which leads to a decrease in productivity, a deterioration in winter hardiness of plants. Dry hot weather contributes to the development of pests. Females, which acquire an orange-red color by autumn, hibernate under plant residues... Ticks (larvae are greenish-yellow) live on the underside of the leaves, braiding them with the finest cobwebs. In places of damage, light dots are formed, then discolored areas (marbling of the leaves).

Preventive control measures: autumn-spring digging of soil under bushes, removal of fallen leaves. In the spring, during bud break, they are treated with colloidal sulfur (except for gooseberries).

Small sucking insects that damage apple, pear, plum, blackthorn, hawthorn and many other fruit and houseplants. They cause premature leaf fall, a decrease in growth and ugliness of shoots, and with a strong spread - drying out and death of plants. Eggs overwinter under the shields of dead females on the bark. The larvae appear in the spring, at the end of the flowering of the apple tree, and are inactive.

The eggs of the pest are destroyed by early spring spraying with nitrafen; mobile larvae of the first instars are destroyed with organophosphates.

Scabbards often cover the bark with a continuous layer. In this case, it is necessary to abundantly wet the surface of the plants with the working fluid. Before spraying, prune trees, remove dry branches and root shoots, clean stems and skeletal branches from particles of dead bark, moss, lichens and lime residues.

Damages raspberries and strawberries, especially on old plantings. Pests hibernate under fallen leaves and clumps of earth. At first, the beetles feed on young leaves. By the beginning of flowering, females lay eggs inside the buds, while gnawing at the peduncle. The hatched larvae live, feed and pupate inside the buds. Summer generations of pests feed on leaves by perforating them.

Among the control measures, the main ones are agrotechnical: periodic change of the planting sites of strawberries and raspberries; do not place these crops side by side; cleaning plantings from old leaves and loosening the soil. With a limited spread of pests, damaged buds should be collected and destroyed; in case of mass defeat - during the budding period, 5-6 days before flowering and after harvesting - the plantings are treated with INTA-VIR.

Damages most fruit and deciduous trees. The eggs of the pest hibernate in cracks in the bark, usually near the buds. Caterpillars hatch before flowering in the spring. In adulthood, they are yellowish-green, 20 cm long with a dark longitudinal stripe on the back and three white stripes on the sides; eat buds, buds and young leaves; the damaged parts of the plant are entwined with cobwebs. By the beginning of summer, the caterpillars go into the soil to a depth of 5-12 cm, where they pupate. In September - October, butterflies appear: males with well-developed yellow-gray wings with a span of about 30 mm, while females have underdeveloped wings.

In autumn, hunting belts are effective, forcing females to lay eggs on the bark below the belt, where they are easy to collect and destroy; in spring, before bud break, trees are sprayed with nitrafen (20-30 g per 1 l of water), later against hatching caterpillars - lepidocide (2-3 g per 1 l of water), "INTA-VIR".

Damages plums, thorns, apricots, peaches. The eggs of the pest hibernate in cracks in the bark near the buds. In early spring on inside leaves appear white shaggy insects 2-3 mm in size. The leaves become spoon-shaped and dry up; fruits become ugly, rot.

This pest multiplies in huge quantities: its colonies with a continuous dense layer cover the underside of the leaves. Often, a sooty fungus develops on the secretions of aphids.

In the spring, before bud break, spraying with 2.5-3% nitrafen is carried out; at the beginning of bud break, a soap solution (20-30 g per 1 l of water), tobacco infusion, INTA-VIR are used against hatching larvae.

Regular cutting and destruction of tops, fattening shoots, root growth is necessary. The autumn cleaning of boles and uterine branches from particles of dead bark and their subsequent whitewashing with milk of lime is of great preventive importance.

Mostly damages young leaves of red and white currants. In early spring, small golden or orange insects appear on the inside of the leaf blades. In places of damage, the leaf tissue grows in the form of dark red or yellow protrusions and swellings (galls). In autumn, females lay eggs on plants near the buds of young shoots.

Infected bushes are sprayed with nitrafen before bud break (about 30 g per 1 liter of solution); on the blossoming leaves, you can apply feverfew, soap solution and tobacco infusion or a combination thereof; 1-2 times processing "INTA-VIR".

In the fall, peel the bark, immediately burn the cleaning, rake and destroy the fallen leaves, dig up the strips of the trunk. After flowering, you can carry out the treatment with anometrine-H, 25% EC. (1 g per 1 liter of water), karbofos, 10% e. and 10% c. n. (7.5-9 g), You need to spray the underside of the leaves, where the bugs and their larvae are located.

NON-CHEMICAL PROTECTION

TOBACCO. It is used against fleas, bedbugs, sawflies, caterpillars, scale insects, spider mite, aphids and other sucking pests.

Broth; raw tobacco is poured with water in a ratio of 1:10 and boiled for 30 minutes, defended for a day, filtered; before spraying, dilute with water 1: 3 and add 40 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of solution.

Infusion: the raw material is poured with water (1:10), infused at a temperature of 25-30 degrees for 24 hours with systematic stirring; before use, dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3.

A decoction of tobacco with onion peel: 200 g of raw tobacco and 200 g of onion peel are boiled for 30 minutes in 2-3 liters of water, cooled, diluted with water to 10 liters, soap is added, filtered.

A mixture of tobacco dust with ash or lime - in equal proportions; used for dusting at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2.

PIZHMA is an active insecticide, used to combat moth, aphids, glass moth, gooseberry moth, apple and pear moth.

Broth: 1 kg of dried green raw materials is boiled in 10 liters of water over low heat for 1-2 hours, defended, filtered, 40 g of laundry soap is added.

Infusion: 200 g of dry raw materials per 10 liters of water; boil for 30 minutes, followed by infusion for 1-2 days; strain before use for spraying, add soap.

Tansy powder is used to pollinate affected plants. Freshly plucked inflorescences and leaves are used to scare away mosquitoes: bundles are laid out or hung indoors, and open areas of the body are rubbed with greens.

SPICY PEPPER. Used against different types aphids, bedbugs, whitefly caterpillars, scoop, moths, raspberry and strawberry weevils, scale insects, sawfly, flea beetles.

Infusion: 100 g of dry pods or 250 g of fresh pods are poured into 2 liters of water, boiled for 1 hour and insisted for 2 days, the pepper is ground, squeezed, the solution is filtered.

Before bud break, the plants are treated with a solution with the addition of water 1:20 and laundry soap; after bud break, treatment is carried out with a weaker solution - 1:40 or 1:50.

When working with both fresh and dry raw materials, it must be borne in mind that if it gets on the mucous membranes, it causes a very strong burning sensation.

Magazine "Household economy"
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