How to make a kitchen table. How to make a country table

If you decide to make kitchen table do it yourself, then you definitely need to make sure that its design is practical, functional, harmoniously fitting into the design of the room. A table made by yourself has many advantages over factory copies - cost, original appearance and convenience.

Before starting production, consider the types of structures to choose the one that will fit into the interior. The dining table must be reliable, sturdy, stable and rigid. If you are new to carpentry, it is recommended to start by making primitive models that do not require high precision.

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What form of the table to give preference

Before making a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to decide on its shape. It has far from the last meaning; it is better to rely on factory models. Rectangular tables have the following tabletop dimensions:

• 1500x900 mm - for 6 persons.
• 2000x1100 mm - for 8 persons.
• 2600x1100 mm - for 10 persons.
• 3200x1100 - for seating 12 people.

According to etiquette, only 1 person can sit down from the end part, so the width of the countertop is constant, regardless of how many people the structure is designed for.

DIY kitchen round tables should have a diameter:

1. For seating 4 people - at least 1100 mm.
2. For 6 people - from 1300 mm.
3. For 8 people - 1500 mm.
4. For 10 people - from 1700 mm.

Standard square tables should have a 900x900 mm table top to comfortably fit 4 people.

Manufacturers do not produce large square tables - they take up a lot of space and accommodate less people than rectangular ones. As for the oval tables, they have also become classics. They have an attractive appearance and are able to create an original atmosphere in the kitchen.

For small kitchens with an area of ​​less than 6 m², constructions with a semicircular worktop are suitable. If the table is moved close to the wall, then it will take up little space, but it will be able to fit the whole family behind it. If the kitchen has a large area, it is better to give preference to large structures.

Determination of overall dimensions

Before you make a kitchen table, you need to clearly define its dimensions. Many designs can be found on sale different manufacturers and they are similar in size. The dimensions of the structure depend on how many people it is designed for, and on the shape of the table top - oval, rectangle, circle.

If you are going to make a large kitchen table with your own hands, then you need to take into account the area of ​​the room. In total, there are 3 parameters that must be considered when choosing:

• Table height. It depends on the height of the people living in the house, because they will sit at the table more often than anyone else. The height of most people is 1.6-1.8 m. Therefore, the height of almost all table designs is designed for such people - it is 0.9 m. It may differ from this value by 1-3 cm.If people are sitting at the table taller than 1.8 m, it is recommended to increase the height of the table to 1 m. It is allowed to adjust the fit by changing the height of the chair legs.
• The width of the table is an important characteristic that also affects the convenience of a person's seating. It is recommended to allocate 0.6 m for one person.If there are 4 people in the family, and you plan to use a rectangular table with seating on both sides, then it is necessary that the width of the table top is 1.2 m. making a kitchen table. But don't forget the last parameter.
• The depth for comfortably accommodating one person is 0.4 m. But keep in mind that various dishes, salad bowls, bread bins are placed in the middle of the table. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the depth by another 0.2 m.If the table is set against the wall, then its depth must be 0.6 m.When seating from 2 sides, it is advisable to increase this parameter to 1 m.

If you plan to make a small table for a small kitchen with your own hands, then it is better to give preference to folding or pull-out designs. They save space in the room.

Review of materials for self-made table

The kitchen table can be made of any material - metal, glass, ceramic tiles, but most of the structures are made of wood. Making a kitchen table out of wood is a classic. But this material has a drawback - scratches, chips, abrasions can appear on it.

All these problems can be solved - restoration is carried out, in which the old coating layer is removed, the surface is repaired and cleaned. At the end, tinting and varnishing are carried out. When using the product, the main condition must be observed - to treat it with care.

Required tools and accessories

To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you will need not only high-quality material without damage (both external and internal), but also such accessories:

1. Furniture corners.
2. Eccentric bolts.
3. Confirmates.
4. Corner strips are required to secure the legs.
5. When making folding tables, you need to purchase hinges.
6. In the manufacture of sliding structures, rollers will be required.
7. For tables made of chipboard, overlay legs are required.
8. Tape for sticking from the end part.
9. Plugs.
10. Plastic profile for worktops.

This is a standard set, but other elements may be required, it all depends on the design. You will also need such a tool:

• Electric jigsaw.
• Workbench.
• Electric drill, screwdriver.
• Measuring accessories - rulers, tape measures, corners.
• A scribe made of metal or a carpenter's pencil.
• A set of drills and bits.

Only after the preparation of all materials, tools and accessories can be made round or rectangular dinner table.

Overview of DIY designs

Examine the assortment in stores - this will help you decide which type you need. You may not find on sale what will be the best way fit into the interior of your kitchen and please you. Standard designs for homemade kitchen tables consist of the following elements:

1. Tsargovy belt.
2. Components for transformation.
3. Table top.
4. Drawers, shelves.

From the countertop

You can easily make a table from an old tabletop with your own hands. Sometimes the supports - the legs - become unusable, the fastening elements are destroyed, but the base itself remains intact, it can be used. For small kitchens, you can make a folding table. When folded, it will protrude no more than 20 cm. This saves space.

From wood-based panels

Before making a kitchen table with your own hands, decide on the material. If you need to save money, it is better to use pressed sawdust for the table - fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and the like. You can even use chipboard with a thickness of at least 15 mm.

Before making a kitchen table out of plywood, consider all the advantages and disadvantages of the material. Veneer can be applied to plywood kitchen tables. The best option for the manufacture of plywood will be - durable, comfortable, outwardly attractive.

Plywood is a good budget material. Plywood can be painted in any color, veneered. At the same time, it is difficult to distinguish from natural wood.

Plywood is made from birch and retains its color and structure for a long time. The parts are connected using self-tapping screws and corners.

Pressed materials have a drawback - if they are damaged, it is difficult to restore them, it is necessary to completely change the element. For 5 years of operation, tables made of pressed sawdust wear out so that it is useless to repair them. In terms of strength, these materials are the weakest - they can survive no more than 2-3 complete disassembly and assembly. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws, which in 2-3 cycles lose their adhesion to the wood.

You can take a furniture board, it has a high degree of strength, does not contain harmful substances, if necessary, it can be restored. But there is a drawback - the complexity of processing. Therefore, if you are making furniture for the first time, it is better to give preference to other materials.

Original appearance for tables made of glass. It has high strength, attractive appearance, resistance to stress, temperature and humidity extremes. But there are disadvantages - high cost and high processing complexity.

From planks

You can make a kitchen table from boards with your own hands; it has an original appearance. You can implement a project if you have minimal skills in plumbing. The legs for the structure can be used ready-made, or they can be made independently from wood or metal elements (the use of profiled pipes is allowed). The table top is made from several identical wooden planks that fit tightly to each other.

In the lower part, fasteners are made, the entire upper surface is carefully polished, and an almost mirror surface is given. But it cannot be left without treatment - it is necessary to apply impregnation, primer and paint. If desired, you can apply up to 3 layers of varnish or paste over with decorative foil.

Retractable option

The telescopic pull-out table in the kitchen will fit well into the interior. The working surface can be doubled. This design is suitable for dining tables. And it will be problematic to use it as a butcher - the stability is low. Better to opt for more reliable options.

From glass

If you decide to make a glass kitchen table with your own hands, then get ready to face difficulties. All sharp edges must be handled to prevent injury. There are several types of glass fixing:

With the help of a frame.	In this case, a glass tabletop is placed in a metal or wood frame. This method is reliable, but it has a drawback - there will be gaps at the joints, it will not be possible to get rid of them completely.
With the help of special devices.	It can be quickly executed, you just need to install the suction cups.
Joining parts together using adhesives.	Please note that PVA glue is not suitable for this purpose - it is carpentry, not capable of joining wood and glass. It is necessary to use an adhesive that cures in ultraviolet rays... The cost of the glue is high, and special lamps must be used to harden it.

Made of metal

You can even make a metal table for the kitchen with your own hands from scrap materials. As a basis, you can take a table with a foot drive for sewing machines... If necessary, the height is reduced to 65 cm. The tabletop can be made of sheet metal (you only need to make a frame for strength) or wood (plywood or MDF will do). It is necessary to apply a high-quality coating to the metal in order to exclude the possibility of rust and corrosion.

Countertops metal structures may be:

1. Retractable - the table top is enlarged, as a result, you can fit 4 people.
2. Sliding - in them the tsarovy belt has a tab. If you use it, then the capacity increases by 5-6 people.
3. Hinged - a special design allows you to increase the area of ​​the tabletop.

Corner model

If the room allows, then you can use corner structures. Before you do corner table to the kitchen with your own hands, you need to decide on the installation site. The advantage of this type of construction is that people are seated around the entire perimeter of the countertop. Therefore, even a small table with dimensions 60x60 cm can accommodate 4 adults.

The best material is wood. The advantages of using it:

• It is easy to handle.
• The material is environmentally friendly.
• From an aesthetic point of view, it is attractive.

But there are also disadvantages of solid wood furniture:

1. The high cost of finished products.
2. Demanding to care.
3. Highly susceptible to changes in temperature and humidity in the room.

From tiles

You can make a kitchen table from ceramic tiles with your own hands. It is allowed to use wood or plywood for the base. An adhesive is applied to the plywood countertop, with which the tiles are attached. The design is practical - it is easy to wash, there is no need to use oilcloths. But the mass of the entire structure is large, so transportation problems may arise.

From the windowsill

If you are planning to make a table from a windowsill in the kitchen, you need to appreciate its advantages:

• Saving the area of ​​the room.
• The tabletop is installed easily, you just need to follow the instructions.
• An aesthetic pleasure - such tables look attractive and unusual.
• Energy saving - there is enough light, since the entire work surface is near the window.
• A wide range of design solutions.
• Low cost of the finished structure.

The table from the windowsill also has a drawback - if you like to change the interior often, then you should not use such table designs.

Transformer

There is no need to confuse transforming tables and folding tables. The initial state of the transformer is the starting surface. It initially looks like a standard table. But with a few movements, its size can be increased by 2-3 times.

If you decide to make a do-it-yourself transformer table for the kitchen, then in advance you need to choose the elements that will be used to fasten the panels. Features of tables:

1. If you take it apart, the table will look like 2 small countertops.
2. There are slots on the sides that can be used when transporting the table and for hanging towels and napkins.
3. At the bottom there is a hook for placing various kitchen accessories.
4. Can be used as a bar counter.

With drawers

For convenience, you can do-it-yourself designs of kitchen tables with drawers. Two is enough; two drawers can be used all the time - in one to put rarely used dishes, in the other tablecloths or cutlery. Such simple elements improve the functionality of the finished table, saving space.

But to install the boxes, it is necessary to use reliable fasteners, so approach their choice carefully. It is not difficult to make a kitchen table with a drawer with your own hands, but you will need to make it up in advance detailed drawing and stick to all sizes. It is imperative to connect all parts of the box box so that it does not collapse during operation.

What do you do with old furniture?

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article, we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills carpentry work, which in the future may turn out to be much more important. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.

You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15 different ways including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble... However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor cost, Money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular tabletops or with rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and must be served over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. Moreover, round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedges into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The bottom line is the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than a certain deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it is convenient for the eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of it is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it in the "microkitchen" or in the kitchen area of ​​a small-sized odnushka wall-mounted folding, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

What to do

The traditional kitchen table is on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a table kitchen sizes structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the tsars are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. In this case, a tabletop is needed durable and not of any suitable for pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.

The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from the commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like; with it, the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest version (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to perform them in a high-end design (pos. 4), well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required. Beam tables require more material consumption, but they undeniable advantage- they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But when completely self-production such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. First, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry on the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising, design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall folding tables (pos. 7) are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used on the farm much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack, even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made post-formed countertop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a kitchen countertop:

How to make a table top from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the tough oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and you cannot redo an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but special skill does not require, since the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.

Details made of laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the confirmation body without a thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
• The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
• It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:

1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and various types of corrugation on a long recessed and short protruding part are produced, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the kitchen table drawers is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The top of a classic table with detachable legs should be 24 mm thick (laminated chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe together with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon become loose.

Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly with the help of ordinary wood screws. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.

The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load in this case is not expected, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.

To install the box in the table in the longitudinal front sidewall, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross-section of the box tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it from the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, pushing the box into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Any tabletop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower dressing (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beamed kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by component

The table, the drawings of which are below in the fig., Has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second - only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it itself can be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the countertop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So it is rustic or modern, it is a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without a tabletop

Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under wooden countertop will face the following tricks.

First, a table holder is still needed, from timber from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. A strapping made of a bar expands the stress fan in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. laminated enough soft wood, the nests can, breaking the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.

Books and cheburashka

The disadvantages of the book table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support is reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees must be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for you. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied in the wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezoid converging from top to bottom.

The branded solution to the problems of the book table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no lock, because he just isn't needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. There are half the legs, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability due to the expansion of the cabinet has only increased, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always not enough in the kitchen).

Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally we built it." A fold-out kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour to it, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a normal-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not broken, and the hostess is close at hand.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

Making a dining table with your own hands will take a little skill and a lot of time and patience. If the carpentry skills are well developed, and at home there is a full set of tools (from a circular saw to a milling machine), then such work will be completely simple. In this case, you can choose the option of making a table that matches not only skills, but also financial capabilities.

The choice of materials and the size of the future table

The dining table is the center of the kitchen or dining room, even if it sits under a wall. Its size should be selected depending on the size of the room and the number of people who often dine together. A comfortable area for one person at the table is 60 cm.Total, for a family of 4 people, there will be enough tabletops with dimensions of 80x60 cm.But sometimes you have to receive guests, so it is better to increase the size of the table to the most suitable for the dimensions of the room.

So it will take up a minimum of space, but if necessary, the useful area is doubled. In this case, it is better not to make the table attached to one wall, because sometimes you may need to move it to another room.

What is the best way to make a dining table?

Solid oak is an ideal material for a kitchen table. Strong, durable and wear-resistant material will last more than one generation with proper care. Pine, on the other hand, is much softer and easier to process, so it is better suited for novice builders. If you take a ready-made furniture board, you do not have to adjust and fasten the boards yourself, but such a tabletop will cost more.

It is advisable to choose sturdy wood for the legs - they must support the weight of the countertop with numerous dishes and plates. In addition, a table is often used instead of a stepladder - this must also be taken into account when choosing wood. Natural wood can be stained, varnished or painted in any color. Or experiment with the combination different types coatings and even change the style annually.

If you need maximum savings, you can buy a laminated chipboard board, since the choice of decorative coatings is extremely wide - under natural wood, plastic, plain and colored. If you order a sheet of the required size, assembly will take a minimum of time. But you need to choose only products with a durable top coating and insulate the edge of the countertop well, otherwise, if moisture gets in, the surface will begin to "swell".

How to make a simple dining table

For those who decide to start making furniture with their own hands for the first time, a simple rectangular table with a chipboard top is best suited. It will require:

1. Purchase a sheet of chipboard of the required size.
2. Buy 4 legs - these can be ready-made balusters or bars with a square section of at least 5x5 cm, which will have to be adjusted in height and sanded with sandpaper. In addition, metal chrome legs can be found which will give the table a modern and stylish look. The included mounts make it as easy as possible to assemble the table.
3. If the legs are wooden, the frame is assembled from the facing boards - for a stronger fixation. The crossbars are attached to the legs on the sides - with self-tapping screws on metal corners from the inside.



4. Legs are attached to the table top 10 cm from the edge. Wooden - on corners, metal - using ready-made fasteners. The frame to the table top is also fixed from the inside with corners - one on each side.



5. The wood is treated with wood stain or painted with a preliminary primer - depending on the chosen style.
6. A cut of a chipboard sheet is closed with a furniture edge. It is very convenient to use a rigid U-shaped PVC edging. Silicone sealant is generously applied to its inner side (to prevent moisture ingress) and simply snaps onto the edge. The ends are closed with plugs, and the excess sealant is removed.



7. If the table top is round or curved, you can take a flexible profile - it is attached to the sealant, the edges are cut off after the glue has set. The flexible piping allows you to create an edge with only one seam, which significantly improves the appearance.
8. For greater reliability, you can use a T-shaped profile, but for it you will have to mill the groove clearly in the center of the entire edge - a manual frezer not everyone has. But such an edging with wide antennae perfectly hides the uneven cut edges, if they are replete with chips and cracks. Such defects cannot be hidden with a regular edge.

The advantage of a chipboard table is its maximum simplicity and cost-effectiveness. To assemble it, you need a minimum of tools:

• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• sharp knife for edge cutting;
• sandpaper for grinding wooden legs;
• brush for coating wooden parts.

Folding table-book - for all occasions

In order not to think about placing guests on the floor in the best Japanese traditions, for small apartment a fold-out dining table is ideal. How to make a folding table with a swivel mechanism?

No more complicated than a regular rectangular table, just a little more expensive:

In addition, you can make a sliding table. In this case, the frame is made "half". One part is screwed to the lower tabletop in the usual way, and the second is made wider so that it can go onto the first. Full extension telescopic slides with outside the narrow part of the frame and the inside of the wide part. But this design is still less reliable than a rigidly fixed frame.

How to add originality to the table?

If you want to make the table special and have the opportunity to realize your idea, why not give it a try? For example, make it glow or decorate with tiles.

Glowing table - how to impress guests

For such a table, a tree with defects is specially selected - chips, cracks and holes from knots. First, the boards are sized and glued together. For better fixation, they can be attached to wooden chopiks - dowels:

If you need to fill through holes, boards covered with waxed paper are placed under them. You can take ordinary parchment for baking. To prevent the resin from spilling over the edge of the edge, you can stick an adhesive tape on it so that it rises a centimeter above the surface. To make even edges at the chipped board, formwork is made, which is also covered with paper and filled with epoxy.

After the first layer has dried, the table top is sprayed and sanded "wet" with fine sandpaper, dried and a second layer of paint is applied. This continues until you receive perfect shine... In addition, the wood will be protected from moisture, which is very important for the kitchen table.

Ceramic table - practical and durable

Base under ceramic tiles can be any - old countertop, metal sheet or OSB plate. The choice of decor is also unlimited, although the mosaic looks better. To simplify the work, you can buy a ready-made mosaic on a grid - you don't have to assemble it yourself, and the thickness is minimal, which is quite important for table decor.

Tile adhesive is applied to the countertop with a notched trowel. The pattern is laid from the corners along the outer perimeter of the countertop, gradually filling the entire surface.

After the glue has completely dried, grout is applied and as soon as it dries, the excess is wiped off with a damp sponge. If you add to the water sunflower oil, the grout in the joints is leveled and does not cling to the sponge.

To protect the edge of the countertop, it is sealed with masking tape, which is removed after the grout has dried. If the edge needs processing, it can be painted in a contrasting color, which will give the table even more originality, or completely covered with the same tiles.

The mosaic laid out only in the center of the table looks original. In this case, a tree is selected to the height of the tiles with a jigsaw and a mosaic is laid out in the resulting depression.

Even if it was not possible to maintain the same depth, the height of the tiles can be adjusted by increasing and decreasing the adhesive layer. The main thing is that the table top is flat, so each row of tiles is checked with a level.

You don't have to buy expensive materials if you can use something that no one else needs. How to make an original and beautiful dining table for a summer residence from old pallets can be seen in the video:

A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.

How to make a wooden dining table

A solid wood table is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.

So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:

1. 4 things. legs-balusters for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
2. For countertops: 4 dry edged wooden planks 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);

1. For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.

Prepare tools: a plane, a grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (desirable). And of course a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles come in handy.

For finishing the table will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. First, let's make the countertop. To do this, you need to fit all 4 boards as accurately as possible to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn on a sawmill, then they must also be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully sanded with a plane. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Finish the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.

We will not connect the boards with self-tapping screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chopiks). To do this, make the same marks on the edges of all boards with a step of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopiki processed with the same glue into the holes and, in turn, connect all 4 bars. Remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a plane. At this stage, you can walk on the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.

So, the table top is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.

To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.

We attach the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to later install the tabletop.

After the glue in the frame dries up, you can start installing the countertop on it (frame).

If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.

So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to process it with varnish or stain, or paint it, having previously primed it.

What color to paint the table? Build on personal preference and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.

You can watch the main mistakes of wood staining with your own hands in this video.

If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be covered with a stain, and on top - with varnish (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.

You can paint the legs in White color, and cover the countertop with stain to get the design as in the next photo.

How to make a kitchen table from chipboard

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic that is resistant to abrasion. In a typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet, sawn to the required dimensions, or agree in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.

You will also need:

• Connecting and end strips;
• End edges;
• Screeds.

Even if you purchase a worktop of suitable dimensions, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as protect the base from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edging tape. The piping option is considered more practical for the dining table and suitable for DIYers.

For the kitchen table, you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to a ready-made base. It all depends on what option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and a height of 71 cm. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.

In our case, these will be chrome-plated shiny legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a table top made of white chipboard with a thickness of 36 mm and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.

So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:

1. The markings are applied to the material according to the drawing. At the corners, the curvatures must have a radius of 60 mm.

1. The table top is shaped with a jigsaw.

A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may chip. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut off with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.

1. A groove is milled for the furniture edge.

1. The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered silicone sealant... The sealant is applied both to the edging and to the top edge of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to stuff the edging. Then the excess sealant is removed.

1. Legs are attached. To do this, markings with a pencil are made on the back of the tabletop. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.

For fastening the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex wrench - that's it, your new table is ready.

How to correctly determine the dimensions

According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?

If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical construction with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.

A do-it-yourself dining table should be designed for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of tenants - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies good decision will become.

Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 ("working" perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values ​​are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables difficult to serve, and wide ones are uncomfortable for those who are seated.

If you decide to make the kitchen table with your own hands oval (round), then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.

Form selection rules

The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to a wall or in the center of a room, saving space.

Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in their large capacity - the largest product will fit no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 sq. meters, because you can't put them against the wall.

It can also be called a versatile and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.

The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. We have already described how to make just such a chipboard table with our own hands.

Furniture care rules

After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long operational period of the product.

So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful maintenance, since it can easily be scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. As a basic wood care, a universal polishing compound is selected.

If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.

Do not forget to move the kitchen furniture away from heating appliances and from the walls bordering the street. Harmful for wooden furniture there will be direct sunlight.

Not everyone was lucky enough to be the owner of a large kitchen, but in small ones, every square centimeter counts. Therefore, folding tables are so fond of our compatriots. The article discusses some structures made of wood, accompanied by drawings, material calculations and assembly recommendations.

You can make a folding table with your own hands, for this you need to arm yourself with ready-made drawings or develop your own, and also stock up on tools and materials. The table can have a different shape and area, but in order for it to take up a small area, you need to make it in the form of a transformer.

Hanging table

Such a table practically does not take up space in the kitchen until it is needed, it can be easily laid out and assembled, and it is quite simple to make such a structure. The table is a supporting part, fixed on the wall, and reclining if necessary. Moreover, chains, mechanical or folding brackets - wooden or metal scarves and frames, as well as one or two legs folding under the base can serve as limiters and supports.

Hanging table options

The blueprints below will provide manufacturing tips.

Hanging table with support - telescopic arm. 1. Table top. 2. Furniture hinges. 3. Telescopic supports

Table drawing: support - folding frame made of bars

In addition, watch a video on the process of making a table with folding stops, with a hinge on a tiled wall.

Stages of making an original hinged table

Now let's make a combined sideboard table for the kitchen.

1. Let's prepare boards (slabs) with the dimensions indicated in the drawing. To do this, we apply the markings, carefully cut out, and then grind each surface with sandpaper or a sander.
2. With the help of screws, we assemble the frame, checking the accuracy of the exposed elements with a square and a level. Fasten the edge of the upper shelf with wood glue. The middle shelf can be fixed with self-tapping screws through the vertical walls or shelf supports - furniture corners (corner brace).
3. To the lower part of the frame, we fix the piano (continuous) hinge or several separate hinges in a row with screws. We attach the second part of the hinges to inside countertops. If the canvas is not strong enough, you can add two or three stiffeners on the outside.
4. We screw the hinges onto the side surfaces of the frame and in the corners of the tabletop from the inside. We fix the chains by adjusting them in length until the table top is completely horizontal in the open state. We close the door-table top, mark the places for hooks and loops on the end surfaces of the sideboard and table on both sides, and screw in the fittings. The tabletop is now locked in an upright (folded) position.
5. On the back of the frame, we attach the hinges for hanging on the wall. Optionally, the sideboard can be sewn up with plywood on the back or left open.
6. We paint the surface with a bright, glossy varnish. The buffet table is ready!

Folding kitchen table with a sideboard

Consider two designs of a folding table with a curbstone. The first one in the kitchen takes up more space, but has a drawer and shelves in the cabinet, which are useful for storing small things. The second is on wheels, narrow, can be built in line kitchen furniture.

Stationary folding table with cabinet-shelves

Let's try to make a pedestal table, as in the photo below.

To make a table, we need a jigsaw, a screwdriver, for the grooves for the hinges - a router or a crown-nozzle for a screwdriver or drill.

1. Preparation of elements. Examine the drawings and prepare the elements with the dimensions and materials shown in the table.

Table 1. Calculation of materials

Position by drawing	Detail	Quantity, pcs.	Size, mm	Material
1	Folding tabletop panel	1	600x600	plywood 25 mm
2	Stationary worktop panel	1	600x475	plywood 25 mm
3	Wide part of the slide-out rails on the folding part	2	530x30	plywood 18 mm
4	Wide section of rails for extendable leg on stationary part	2	120x30	plywood 18 mm
5	Upper leg movement limiter	1	122x30	plywood 18 mm
6	Narrow part of the slide-out leg rails on the folding part	2	530x20	plywood 18 mm
7	Narrow part of the rails for the extendable leg on the stationary part	2	120x20	plywood 18 mm
8	Lower leg movement limiter	1	122*20	plywood 18 mm
9	Side walls of the curbstone	2	720x520	19mm MDF plate
10	Horizontal elements of the curbstone	3	520x312	MDF plate 19 mm
11	Vertical partition between shelves	1	418x312	MDF plate 19 mm
12	Wall - drawer movement limiter	1	312x184	MDF plate 19 mm
13	A shelf	1	310x250	MDF plate 19 mm
14	Door	1	447x346	MDF plate 19 mm
15	A shelf	1	310x250	MDF plate 19 mm
16	Decorative facade box	1	346x209	MDF plate 19 mm
17	Drawer front panel	1	310x150	MDF plate 19 mm
18	Drawer side walls	2	341x150	MDF plate 19 mm
19	Back wall box	1	272x120	MDF plate 19 mm
20	Bottom	1	341x272	MDF plate 19 mm
	Planks covering the bottom of the curbstone from the end	2	300x20	plywood δ5 mm
	Retractable leg	1	h 702mm, Ø: 55 mm at the top, 30 mm at the bottom	wood
	The head of the leg, moving along the assembled guides	1	80x80	plywood δ18 mm
Accessories and purchased items
	Door and drawer handles	2
	Drawer guides	2
	Furniture hinges for folding tabletops	2
	Furniture hinges for cabinet doors	2
	Furniture edge for open board ends		6-8 m

1. The details of pos. 1 Draw an arc that will be the rounded edge of the reclining part of the countertop using a homemade compass: a nail, thread, and a pencil. Place the stud exactly along the axis of the workpiece. Saw the arc with a jigsaw.
2. On a flat surface, place two pieces of worktop side by side, with the flat side facing each other. Using a router or a crown, drill the grooves to the size of the hidden butterfly loops. Secure the hinges with self-tapping screws. Before you start drilling, attach the hinges to the workpieces and mark with a pencil.
3. On the reverse side of the countertop from the details of pos. 3-8 form and fix with self-tapping screws the guides with the stop - the channel for the movement of the leg. Details of pos. 5 and 8 saw down at 45 °. Please note that the ends of the upper planks (pos. 3 and 4), directed to the junction of the countertops, are cut at 45 °, otherwise they will prevent them from folding. Fix the head on the retractable leg - a square of plywood that will move along the guides. Insert the stem head into the canal and check its movement. If something gets in the way, you need to grind it. Paint or varnish the tabletop.
4. All details of the curbstone pos. 9-20 saw out with a jigsaw, a router, or smooth the edges by hand. On the end surfaces that will be visible, use an iron to secure the furniture edge. After stepping back about 100 mm from the edge and making the markings in the door and side wall of the cabinet, drill the holes for the hinges. Attach the handle to the door.
5. Paint the details of the curbstone. Using the square and level, assemble the curbstone according to the drawings, starting from the lower parts. Use wood rods, self-tapping screws and wood glue to hold the elements together. Fasten the guides in the place where the drawer moves.
6. Make a drawer, controlling the right angles and diagonal. Attach the guides to the side walls. Fix facade panel and a pen.
7. Install the countertop. To do this, fix the stationary part on the cabinet using wood glue, and then fix it on the inside with self-tapping screws. Insert the drawer.

The table is ready!

Narrow book table on wheels

Now we will make another table that can be folded compactly and open one or two folding tabletops. For ease of movement, the design is complemented by wheels.

All units and parts are made of chipboard, the edges are finished with furniture edging. The table can be painted, laminated with foil or opened with varnish. Consumption and sizes of parts are shown in table 2.

table 2

1. We will make a base frame according to the diagram below. For this we use wooden rods, screws and glue. U-shaped castors are attached with self-tapping screws.

1. Now you need to assemble two supports for the countertops, which, when closed, are removed under the base.
2. We fasten the supports to the base using piano hinges. Optionally, you can fix them on one or two racks. We control the assembly by level, and upon completion we check how the parts move relative to each other.

1. We also attach the tabletops to the base with piano hinges. If you are worried that the leg will "leave", attach a corner to limit movement on the inside of the tabletops.
2. If you want the wheels not to be visible when folded (when storing in a niche of kitchen furniture), add a plinth to the base by cutting a groove for it in the stiffener.

In conclusion, watch a video on how to make your own sliding table in the kitchen.