Insulation of the house with penoplex from the outside or how to avoid the mistakes of beginners. Plaster of a facade insulated with foam - from reinforcement to decorative finishing Gypsum plaster on foam

When the approach is already felt in the air cold winter, we do not leave the thought of how better insulation my house. Penoplex is a very popular, optimal option in terms of price and quality. In use, the material will not take a lot of time and effort from the builder, but it will definitely be necessary to protect the insulation from mechanical and weather influences. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

Penoplex is often used as a heater for buildings with an external or inside... Working with it is facilitated by the always consistent physical characteristics and dimensions of the slabs. The strength of the penoplex is not enough so that the plates do not collapse from point impacts and other physical influences (dents cannot be avoided in any case). Therefore, it is required to protect the material from the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation, humidity, etc. Yes, and visually, the wall, insulated with plates, seems still unfinished and requires additional finishing. The use of penoplex implies, in addition to insulation, additional finishing.

Plaster is a simple and inexpensive method of surface finishing after insulation. This kind construction works appropriate when the boards are glued to the surface. Penoplex can be stacked in a different way: in the supporting frame, in the crate cells. With this option, the facing of the plane will be performed either by panels, or by clapboard, or by something else.

We check if there are any gaps between the plates. Almost no one succeeds in laying the insulation perfectly the first time. We close up the joints, if this moment was missed during the installation. Pay attention to the curvature of the entire plane, because the adhesive solution is then applied in a thin layer. It will not be possible to even out irregularities with them due to the specifics of the composition. To remove the gaps between the foam boards, you can fill the gaps with foam for insulation systems (or usually mounting), for example, Ceresit CT-84. For one can (850 ml), you will need to give about 600 rubles.

Insulation of the facade with penoplex

Making plaster mortar

Do not use a standard cement-based mortar with sand as it will not give a good quality plaster. The store is full of mixtures, in terms of composition, suitable for styling on penoplex.

Experienced finishers advise using:

  • "Stolit"
  • "Ceresit",
  • Ecomix.

When mixing, strictly follow the instructions left by the manufacturer on the packaging. Experienced craftsmen make a mixture that resembles sour cream in density. To glue the fiberglass mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than the manufacturer requires. In the case of a leveling layer, the mortar must be so liquid that it flows freely from the trowel. Hence the different consumption of the composition: gluing the mesh will require 4 kg per 1 sq. meter, per leveling layer - 6 kg of mixture per sq. meter.

Preparation of plaster mortar

Compositions different manufacturers, despite the great similarity, have different components. Therefore, it is better to use products from the same manufacturer at the same site in order to avoid unnecessary problems.

Use formulations that are universal in use, and you do not have to think about additional nuances associated with restrictions on the scope of application.

Primary layer outline

Penoplex is prepared for plastering by laying the primary layer. For this purpose, an alkali resistant PVC mesh should be used. Using PVC, you will insure yourself against the aggressive effect of cement on the exposed mesh. Cement is known to react with many materials.

Cut strips slightly longer than the height of the wall. Keep in mind that the installation is done from top to bottom. With one hand, apply the strip to the fiberglass, with the other, apply the solution to the mesh exclusively along the upper edge. Thus, the mesh is, as it were, "welded" to the penoplex. As a result, the primary layer should be up to 5 mm thick.

Penoplex insulation scheme: 1 - foam plates, 2 - glue, 3 - dowels, 4 - reinforcing mesh, 5 - primer, 6 - plaster coating

Once the top edge is flat, apply the grout to the mesh so that it is evenly distributed over the entire width. Each movement goes from top to bottom. Be sure to leave a vertical "tape" clean from the plaster mixture on the right side, because each subsequent strip will lay on the edge of the previous one by almost 1 cm.

As a result, it turns out that the wall will be strip after strip covered with a grid over the entire surface. Look at all the places on the wall where the geometry of the plane changes (door openings, slopes, window openings) - first of all, you need to start laying the mesh from them.

Reinforcing mesh for foam

Smoothing the first layer

This procedure must be performed so that the base under the second layer turns out to be even and monolithic. Moistening a half-scrubber with water, level the entire plane, slightly pressing on the penoplex. We do not pay attention to the sections of the mesh that appear through the solution to the outside - this is normal. It so happens that, after waiting for the solution to dry, experienced specialists again prime the primary layer.

Finishing with a mixture

The second layer is needed to complete the wall alignment and hide everything. auxiliary elements eg reinforcement. The third layer is possible if the quality of the second, for some reason, does not please the master. But this is only a "rough" finish before the final stage - the final surface design. The last step is usually done using decorative plaster... If the surface was made uneven, then there can be no question of a normal installation of the "decoration".

Penoplex facade plastering

Table. Required tools and materials.

1 A bowl for preparing a mixture
2 Water tank
3 Spatulas of various sizes
4 PVC mesh for making a reinforced layer
5 Oil brush
6 Paint roller
7 Penoplex scraper
8 Plastering composition either "Ceresit", or "Ecomix", or "Stolit"
9 Polyurethane foam Ceresit CT-84 (850ml)
10 Primer "Betonkontakt"
11 Ceresit glue ST 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF, etc.

What should be foreseen

Before buying plastering materials, make a calculation of the amount purchased. If work is carried out according to the established technology, then the consumption of the mixture will be within 4 kg / m2 when laying the initial layer. The second layer will require from 5.5 to 6.5 kg / m2.

Here's a tip: grab a spare mixture just in case you need to make a third adjustment layer.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering penoplex

In order to plaster the foam on your own, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory steps, one after the other in a strict order.

First step. Ensure good adhesion by treating the surface with a deep-penetrating primer "Betonkontakt" (from manufacturers such as VIOLUX, Ceresit, Feidal). Price 700-1000 r. for 15 liters. A large brush or paint roller is suitable for work. Before applying, you need to shake the composition and pour some part into a suitable plane. Dip the brush in liquid and apply the primer evenly to the surface. The liquid should not leak and accumulate in certain areas. The surface is treated with a primer one more time after the first layer has dried.

Concrete contact KNAUF

Second step. Attach the plinth profile to the wall. It will take measuring tool(say, a ruler or tape measure) to mark the points on the wall where you will make holes with a drill. It is better to take a puncher for this - you will lose less time.

Types of basement profile

Fastening the plinth profile

Step three. Stir the adhesive solution to stick the foam boards to the wall. To simplify the process and shorten the working time, select a container for the entire bag of mixture. It is most convenient to knead with an electric mixer with a collapsible nozzle.

Fourth step. Immediately, as the prepared solution is on the facade, glue the foam boards to it. But it will be more convenient and more economical to apply glue to one side of the plate, evenly distributing it around the entire perimeter. And in the middle it is enough to throw on a few "cakes". Attach the insulation to the wall neatly along the previously exposed carriers. It is recommended to slam the slab several times. Use a spatula to remove excess mortar.

Insulation of the facade with penoplex 5 cm and framing the corners with penoplex 2 cm

Fifth step. Each foam board must be rigidly fixed with a dowel-umbrella. This operation is performed using a drill. Over the entire area, 4–6 holes are made into which the dowel-umbrellas are laid. Cover the dowel caps together with all the recesses in the foam.

Facade dowel umbrella for thermal insulation

Sixth step. A reinforcing layer is made from perforated corners and fiberglass mesh. Aluminum corners are glued to the outer corners. The same glue, either Ceresit CT 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF, is used for corners and mesh. Price 350-600 rubles. for 25 kg. It is necessary to cut out the fiberglass reinforced mesh. It should be borne in mind that the canvases should overlap each other by no more than 10 cm when they are glued to the plates. Also leave a distance of almost 10 cm for turning the corners. Apply the adhesive with a thickness of about 3 mm - it is more convenient to do this from top to bottom in small areas at a time. Its density should be slightly less than indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Compliance with these points ensures that the adhesive does not have time to set before the completion of the reinforcing layer. Then use a spatula to glue the fiberglass to the wall.

Advice! In the case when the fiberglass mesh does not have sufficient flexibility and it is not possible to bend the corners normally, apply liquid glue in the places of the folds to make the canvas more elastic.

Corner with mesh for building corners

Seventh step. The adhesive solution is applied to the reinforcing layer. A regular spatula will help you to apply a layer of glue evenly. In fact, it turns out like a rough plaster.

Eighth step. A finishing layer (or two) of the primer is distributed over the heat-insulating cake. This is done using a wide bristle brush.

Facade cladding brick

Description of types and installation facing brick for the facade can be found in this article. We also recommend reading about decorative elements made of expanded polystyrene for the facade.

Ninth step. Plastering and painting of the facade are carried out at the final stage of work with the help of a plaster falcon and paint roller... Before this, the primer must dry. After drying, the finish is completed with decorative plaster. It is rubbed off after the applied layer begins to set. When the plaster dries, the surface is painted with a special facade paint. For these purposes, water-dispersion compositions are used.

Facade decoration with decorative plaster

At the ninth step, the work on warming and protecting the walls from freezing can be considered completed. When insulation is carried out inside the building, then instead of plaster, putty is applied to the reinforced layer, followed by decorative finishing (wallpapering or painting). Please note that staining is not necessary in all cases. When asked when to stain and when not, you can find the answer on the packaging of the putty used.

Video - Do-it-yourself plastering of the facade on penoplex

More and more people in order to comfortably survive the winter heating season used as a heater for their home penopoleks - one of the varieties of polystyrene.

But since it has the properties of collapsing under the influence of various climatic factors, plaster is used to protect it, which in fact has no alternative as a barrier between external weather conditions and the penoplex itself.

Choice of plaster mix

Before you purchase decorative plaster to protect the Penoplex thermal insulator, you need to consider several factors when choosing it. This applies not only to its own technical and individual characteristics, but also to the surface on which it will be used.

Each type of plaster mix differs from the others in a number of advantages and disadvantages that can play a significant role in their operation.

In order to answer the question of what kind of plaster solution can be used for penoplex, you need to understand all the differences between its types.

Mineral plaster is produced on the basis of cement mix , in which various additives in the form of polymers play an essential role.

Mineral plaster

It is quite resistant to various biological irritants, such as fungi and mold, and also has a low coefficient of water absorption, which is why a favorable environment for the development of these microorganisms does not arise.

The application of mineral plaster on the surface is quite easy, and the efficiency is high.

The acrylic type of plaster differs in that it has high elasticity, liquid-repelling properties, and is also not exposed to ultraviolet exposure.

Acrylic plaster

It is good enough to use acrylic plaster mix in places where there is high humidity, as well as on surfaces that may experience some deformation over time.

Among the possible options for plasters, a silicate mixture has the highest efficiency. This is due to its properties, among which a high level of elasticity, antistaticity, vapor permeability, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and climatic conditions can be distinguished.

Silicate plaster

Penoplex silicate plaster can be used both indoors and on its facades.

In this case, the choice should also be based on the service life of the material, which is often indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. In addition, surface texture plays a significant role in terms of service life.

The impact of the external environment on smooth surface more noticeable, while the relief structure is less sensitive to this factor.

Penoplex plaster Bark beetle has recently become more and more popular.

For the correct application of the plaster, the Bark beetle should know how to calculate its consumption per 1 m2.

Plaster bark beetle

If there is a possibility of mechanical stress on the wall, it is best to buy acrylic plaster. The silicate mixture is less stable in this parameter.

Mineral plaster is most exposed to shock and mechanical stress.

What better plaster for penoplex, it is necessary to apply it depending on the tasks set and the requirements that it must fulfill. When choosing any type of plaster, it is advisable to know the time of their drying.

Sequence of work

If the choice of insulation for the walls fell precisely on penoplex, you need to protect it from mechanical stress, humidity, air temperature, as well as ultraviolet radiation using plastering with a special selected mixture.

This is not easy for a person unfamiliar with such activities, since it is necessary to comply with all the rules and regulations. The process itself has several stages in the following order:

  • preparation of plaster mixture;
  • gluing the mesh on the walls;
  • grouting the wall;
  • grouting the leveling layer;
  • padding.

If everything is done correctly, the plaster of the walls on the foam from the outside will be reliably protected, performing the functions assigned to it during the heating period - retaining heat inside the house.

Preparation of the mixture

In order to prepare a plaster mixture for applying it to penoplex, you must fully follow the manufacturer's instructions, since in each case the process is carried out with certain nuances.

The general description of the technology for preparing penoplex plaster is almost identical for its type, while the specific numbers are different everywhere.

It is very important to carry out work on the whole house with only one type of material, without changing from one manufacturer to another in the process. This is important due to the fact that differences in the properties of different types of plaster mixes can have a detrimental effect on each of them, because of which they will cease to perform their functions.

Manufacturers can produce one or two different mixtures for finishing foam. If there is only one plaster on the store shelves for these purposes, it means that it is universal and can be used for various works - for fixing the insulation to the wall and for protecting it from external influences.

Mixtures and their preparation

Two different material are strictly for their own purposes. It is the universal structural mixtures that are easiest to apply, since there are less difficulties with them.

Approximately to calculate the amount of material for wall decoration, a figure in the form of 4 kilograms of material is used for the first stage, which is to fasten the reinforcing mesh. About 6 kilograms of material is needed for the leveling layer for the same area.

The practical use of facade plasters has shown that it is necessary to prepare the mixture somewhat more liquid than the manufacturer recommends. This allows, among other things, also slightly reduce material consumption and save money.

In addition, it will be easier to work with such a mixture than with thicker plaster.

Sticking mesh on walls

Before you can stick the foam on the wall, you need to do a few things in order for the fixing to happen well enough and securely. For this reinforcing mesh must be used.

Construction practice shows that it is best to choose a material with a density of about 150 grams per square meter.

Among all the variety finishing materials for construction in the domestic market, the most popular is the Rotband putty from the well-known company Knauf. By clicking on the link, get acquainted with its technical characteristics.

Wall panels for the bathroom are easy enough to install, they are durable, cope with temperature changes, serve for a long time, if necessary, dismantling can be easily removed. It's all about here different types and installation methods.

When carrying out one or another repair work, it is worthwhile to understand that the base must be necessarily strong and reliable. Dry floor screed - quickly, efficiently and cheaply.

The high density allows you to lay the next layer evenly, but at the same time working at the corners becomes more difficult with an increase in this indicator.

Mesh fixing

You need to start work by gluing the mesh from the corners of the building, window and door openings:

  • you need to cut a strip of mesh with a width of about 30 centimeters and a length in accordance with the size of the corner;
  • it is necessary to determine the middle of the cut strip and bend it in this place to form an edge;
  • using a spatula, the plaster mass should be applied to the wall surface near the corners with a thickness of 2-3 millimeters;
  • the mesh must be applied to the put plaster mixture, pressed, and also smoothed with a spatula in the direction from the corner downward and sideways.

After finishing with a grid of corners, you need get started on solid surfaces:

  • first, the mesh is cut in sizes of 1 meter;
  • then a plaster mass is applied to the surface, 100 centimeters long, 90 centimeters wide (5 centimeters on both sides will be used for gluing joints) and 3 millimeters thick;
  • the mesh must be applied to the mass strong enough so that it practically drowns in it, smoothing from the center or from top to bottom, sometimes adding additional plaster mixture at the same time, if required;
  • after gluing one strip, you can proceed to another, laying the remaining 5 centimeters of the mesh overlapping each other;
  • it is also necessary to overlap the joints between the surface mesh and the mesh near the corners.

Overlapping reinforcement is a very important technological rule that cannot be ignored.

Grouting the walls

After the mesh has been applied to the mixture, or rather completely glued into it, it is necessary to carry out the process of grouting the entire surface.

For grouting, a special plastic float is used, on which an abrasive strip is located.

It is necessary to trowel only when the universal plaster mixture is dry. Drying time depends entirely on air temperature and humidity. It can take several hours in hot weather and more than a day on a cool autumn or spring day.

Grouting the walls

Grouting should be done in a circular motion with little hand effort.... Move the spatula counterclockwise. It is worth remembering that if a plaster that has not dried out gets into the abrasive strip, the sandpaper will have to be replaced with another one.

Application of leveling compound

After the first grouting of the surface has been done, you need to completely level the wall with a special layer. For this, the same mixture of universal application for penoplex is used.

Application of leveling compound

There are several stages:

  • with a small spatula, a mixture is applied to a wide tool (from 350 millimeters) to level the wall;
  • with a large tool, plaster is applied to the surface and evenly distributed over it with a layer of about 3 millimeters, depending on the quality of the grouting process;
  • the connection of the boundaries of this layer should not be on top of the joints of the previous one.

After the leveling layer has been applied, you need to wait until it dries, and then proceed to the next stage.

Leveling layer grout

The process of grouting the leveling layer is carried out according to the same technology as the layer in which the mesh was glued. There are no differences in the implementation of these steps.

It is worth noting that there is a deadline for the grouting process. It should be started no earlier than the first day after applying the leveling layer. But there is no need to wait longer than four days after drying.

Leveling layer grout

Since a long period of non-fulfillment of this stage will require more time for grouting with considerable effort.

Rubbing should be carried out until the most even surface is obtained.

This will provide the base for the finishing coat.

Padding

In order for the final finishing of the wall surface to be securely attached to the base, the walls must be primed. Particular attention should be paid if ceiling plastering is to be performed.

The choice of liquid for this must be carried out depending on which topcoat will be used: decorative plaster mixture for facades or paint.

In the first case, it is best to use a primer with quartz inclusions, in the second case, the mixture should not have any special components.

Padding

The primer is applied using a roller with fine soft fibers.

It is important not to leave streaks on the wall by evenly distributing the liquid over it.

This stage is the last preparatory stage before applying the topcoat directly.

Plastering the prepared wall

The process of plastering the prepared surface should be carried out in accordance with a specific technology:

  • to begin with, a base layer is applied evenly over the entire wall with the same thickness, depending on the size of the grains (large grains in the mixture require a greater layer thickness);
  • after applying the base layer, it is necessary to begin the process of forming a decorative surface, for which a sponge, spatula or float is used;
  • after covering the entire surface of the wall, you need to wait until it dries, after which the process of painting or applying a protective colorless layer is carried out.

Application to prepared wall

A video of applying plaster on penoplex can help you more clearly understand the process of work and production technology.

Some home owners have the question of how to paint penoplex without plaster, since the technology of its application is rather difficult.

Painting

Based on the chemical and physical characteristics of this insulation material, it is possible to paint with mineral paints, a finishing facade material based on silicate glass or water-emulsion solutions.

Compliance with all technological production in practice allows you to carry out the work efficiently and correctly. This, in turn, directly affects the performance of materials with their properties, which the manufacturer gave them.

At the same time, the heating period will become more comfortable, simple and economical, since you will not have to use additional funds for heating. Foam plaster on facades is one of the most optimal options for warming rooms.

Penoplex refers to a new formation of a heat insulator, presented in the form of a plate of extruded polystyrene foam. Its main difference from conventional PPP is more high density, strength and fire resistance. Its excellent thermal insulation properties allow significant savings on space heating. In this article, we will talk in more detail about wall decoration with plaster on foam.

Pros and cons of facade insulation with penoplex

The main advantages of the material:

  • low thermal conductivity (coefficient of thermal conductivity 0.03 W / m · ºK)
  • resistance to compression and the ability to withstand mechanical loads, due to the homogeneous structure of the material, where evenly spaced pores increase the strength of the heat insulator;
  • low water absorption (0.2 - 0.4% of the volume in 24 hours with full immersion);
  • withstands a wide range of temperatures: from -50 to +75 degrees;
  • resistance to mold and decay;
  • fire resistance;
  • good soundproofing qualities;
  • low material weight - easy transportation;
  • ease of installation, installation of plates is possible independently by one person. Standard sizes penoplex: width 600 mm, length 1200 mm, thickness from 20 to 100 mm;
  • versatility, the ability to insulate any building elements: walls, basement, foundation, roof, floor;
  • safe, does not emit toxic substances;
  • long period of service, provided correct use not less than 50 years old.

The disadvantages of the material include:

  • low vapor permeability (0.007-0.008 mg / m · h · Pa). When using the material indoors, ensure good ventilation to avoid condensation and mold. Also, it is impossible to insulate aerated concrete without internal vapor barrier of the walls.
  • high price - about two times more expensive than polystyrene and mineral wool.

Due to its heat-saving qualities and ease of installation, penoplex has become widespread and is increasingly used for insulating buildings, displacing ordinary foam.

Can I plaster it?

Despite its moisture resistance, the penoplex must be closed from atmospheric precipitation. Moreover, it is necessary to create an attractive appearance of the building. Indoors, PVC and MDF panels are suitable for finishing this insulation. Outside the house, you can arrange a ventilated facade made of siding or wall panels.

Penoplex can be plastered both indoors and outdoors. This will be a versatile finishing option. How to do this, and what is required for work, we will consider below.

Which mix is ​​best?

When choosing a plaster, one should take into account its characteristics and climatic conditions. Since the plaster must protect the insulation from mechanical, chemical and climatic factors, guarantee fire safety, increase heat and sound insulation characteristics, smooth out unevenness in the base, giving the room a flawless appearance.

There are such types of plaster mixes:

  • Mineral... A mixture based on cement, sand, as well as plasticizers and adhesives. it a good choice for use as a base coat for painting or decorative plaster... The mortar is easy to apply, resistant to fire, moisture and mold. At the same time, it is inexpensive.
  • Acrylic... It is presented in the form of a solution based on acrylic resins with mineral additives and dyes. Main advantages: rich range of colors and textures, elasticity, strength, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. Creates a dense moisture-proof film.
  • Silicone... Differs in high elasticity and strength. A versatile mixture with high performance, a rich palette of colors and offered as a ready-to-use solution. The disadvantage is the high cost of the material.
  • Silicate the mixture is made on the basis of liquid glass, it protects well from frost, winds, humidity and temperature extremes. The composition has good vapor permeability, therefore it maintains a comfortable indoor climate. In work, it requires efficiency, because it quickly grasps.
  • Silicate-silicone plaster contains water-repellent additives, mineral fillers and coloring pigments. The technical characteristics include increased mechanical resistance and elasticity, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and good adhesion to the surface.

Penoplex plastering

Let's summarize which of the plasters is better. To create protection against mechanical damage and for additional thermal insulation of the building, plaster on a cement-sand base is suitable. But the plastered surface will be unattractive. Therefore, it will be necessary to additionally paint the facade or apply a layer of decorative plastering.

Of the above formulations, silicone will be the most durable, but also the most expensive. When choosing a texture and color, only the opinion of the customer will be of decisive importance, which finish is closer to him: "bark beetle", "fur coat", imitation of a stone or other types.

How to plaster outside and indoors: step-by-step instructions

The plastering process is not particularly difficult, but must be carried out in compliance with the technology.

To work you need tools:

Necessary materials:

Preparation of the base

  1. Blow out the seams between the slabs polyurethane foam;
  2. After hardening, cut off the excess foam with a knife and rub with a grater;
  3. Deepen the dowel caps. If it is not possible to drive them in, then you need to cut off the cap and hammer in another dowel next to it, having made a hole for it in advance;
  4. At the end of the work, treat the walls with a deep penetration primer.

Mesh reinforcement

  1. Cover the caps of the dowels and depressions on the insulation.
  2. Fasten aluminum to the outer corners. perforated corners.
  3. Cut out the fiberglass mesh, bearing in mind that the fabric will overlap each other.
  4. Cover the base with 3-5 mm thick adhesive and attach the mesh. Smooth it out with a wide trowel, pressing it into the plaster.
  5. Apply another layer of adhesive over the reinforcement.
  6. Rub the dried layer of reinforcement with a float in a circular motion, without undue zeal and with equal pressure.

Penoplex plastering

  1. After reinforcement, you can start plastering the walls of the room. Put the mixture on a large construction trowel with a small spatula, apply it to the wall and level it. The layer thickness should be 3-5 mm.
  2. After drying, you need to wipe again with sandpaper until a flat surface is obtained.
  3. To get rid of increased dampness and the appearance of mold, apply two coats of primer at intervals of 3-4 hours, using a roller with a short nap.
  4. After the soil has dried, decorative plaster is applied with a wide spatula. To create textures on the wall, embossed rollers and stamps are used. The choice of tool depends on the type of mixture. For example, pebble plaster can be simply leveled with a trowel. A "fur coat" on the wall is created with a roller.
  5. If the tinting of the solution was not done before being applied to the wall, then it is painted after drying.
  6. When plastering indoors with a gypsum-based mixture, the walls can be additionally treated with a special varnish.

Facade plastering should be carried out under favorable weather conditions:

  • air humidity - 65-70%;
  • optimal temperature indicators in the range from 5 to 25 degrees above zero;
  • no strong wind.

How to paint penoplex?

imitation brickwork

Plastered insulation, prepared for finishing, can be painted with any facade paint: acrylic, silicate, latex or water-based paint.

Sometimes penoplex is used not as insulation, but as a material for decoration. For example, brick or masonry is cut out on its sheets.

In this case, when painting, do not use paints with solvents. They will corrode polystyrene foam. Acrylic or water-based formulations work well.

Let's summarize. Penoplex plastering does not require much experience or special skills. But you need to remember about the use of reinforcing mesh and adhesive plaster solutions. Simple technology gives great opportunities for wall decoration and allows you to create a unique look for warm facades.

We hope this article was helpful to you. Leave your feedback and questions in the comments below.

According to experts, the most common option for finishing the outer walls of a building is considered to be the facade plastering on the foam. The finishing layer will reliably protect the insulation from the effects of an aggressive environment. Using plaster, you can radically transform the appearance of a building. To increase the service life of such a coating will allow correct technology work, and the installation of thermal insulation and plaster can be carried out independently, without the help of expensive specialists.

Choice of plaster

When choosing a protective coating for finishing the surface of the foam, you should take into account specifications insulation. According to experts, silicone formulations are best suited for this purpose. The surface of such coatings is highly resistant to atmospheric precipitation in the form of rain, snow and hail.

Penoplex facade plastering scheme

A good result can be obtained when finishing the surface of the foam with mineral plasters, which contain polymer components. Such solutions quickly fix on the base, have low water absorption rates, and resist the appearance of fungus and mold.

Note! In the case when the facade will be exposed to various mechanical influences, it is best to choose acrylic plasters for its finishing. Such compositions are well applied to the surface, do not fade under the influence of ultraviolet light.

Now let's look at the features of specific types of decorative plaster.

Bark beetle

In the composition of such a solution, there is a white powder and small fraction stones. According to the builders, the final drawing on the wall will depend on the size of the stones and the movements of the plasterer.

"Bark beetle" type plaster

Typically, granules with a particle diameter of 2.5 millimeters are added to such mixtures. The bark beetle is a mineral plaster with polymer additives. Its advantages are considered to be excellent frost resistance, the absence of harmful additives.

Pebble plaster

It is a textured coating consisting of small pebbles similar in outward appearance on the pebbles. For the manufacture of the material in question, such types of natural raw materials as marble or granite with a particle size of up to 4 millimeters are used.

Pebble plaster structure

This mixture is held together with a binder and sand. The main advantages of stone solutions are considered resistance to sunlight and the effects of moisture, plasticity of the composition and strength in relation to mechanical stress.

Lamb plaster

Supplied to hardware stores in the form of a dry mixture, which consists of cement white as well as small aggregates such as marble, quartz and dolomite. The material adheres well to base surface, has excellent water-repellent properties, resists mechanical stress, mildew and mildew.

Mosaic decorative plaster

It is made on the basis of acrylic resin with the addition of colored chips. Such compositions have good elasticity and mechanical strength.

Mosaic plaster

For finishing the facade of the building with insulation, solutions with a diameter of colored particles from 1 to 3 millimeters are used.

Substrate preparation and bonding of boards

The base surface for applying plaster is the foam board. This material must be attached to the wall using special glue, and the products must be located on the surface of the facade according to the brickwork principle.

The joints are sealed with special polyurethane foam for expanded polyethylene. The remaining foam can be cut off with a sharp utility knife. This version of the insulation device will prevent the formation of cold bridges.

The glue mixture is applied with a notched trowel, after which the plates are fixed to the surface. If the surface of the walls is uneven, then the required layer of mortar is glued to the insulation plates, then the product is fixed to the surface according to the indications of the building level.

Applying glue to the insulation board

The final fixation of the insulation is carried out with plastic dowels, made in the form of a parachute, but this work is carried out the next day after the insulation plates are glued. At the end of the work being carried out, we should have a perfectly flat base. The places in which the umbrellas are hammered are sealed with mortar, with 5 dowels per sheet.

Note! It is forbidden to use solutions of different brands for sticking the penoplex.

Mesh reinforcement

For reliable fixation of the decorative finishing layer, it is necessary to lay a special mesh on the surface of the insulation. For this purpose, it is recommended to choose materials with a density of 140 to 160 grams per m2.

Reinforcement mesh

Such a mesh has sufficient density to obtain an even layer of plaster. Similar products can be used for pasting corners.

Note! Some types of plaster contain cement, therefore, the mesh for the facade must be resistant to alkalis.

The installation of the mesh begins from the corners of the building, as well as the slopes on the window and doorways... To glue the material in these places, cut a 30 cm piece with a length equal to the length of the slope. We bend the strip in the middle and apply it to the corner part. After that, using a spatula, a universal adhesive mixture is applied with a thickness of 2 to 3 millimeters.

At the next stage of work, it is necessary to attach the mesh to the mortar and press it carefully with a spatula. The armored cloth is attached to the surface by smoothing from the center to the sides. For pasting the rest of the plane, cut the mesh into equal pieces of 1 meter in length, then apply the glue mixture over the area of ​​the product and apply reinforced fiber.

Press the mesh to the wall with the movements of the spatula from the center in the upper and lower directions. We glue the materials with an overlap, combining the joints by 5 centimeters. It is recommended to avoid joining the mesh with the joints of the thermal insulation boards.

Note! If you leave areas free of the grid on the wall, then these places will look rough even on a surface finished with plaster.

Next, the surface is trowelled using a special trowel with a fixed emery cloth. Wall treatment should be carried out on a dried adhesive solution. If, in warm weather, such a mixture dries up for 2-3 hours, then in cloudy weather with low air temperatures, you need to wait at least a day to carry out such operations.

  1. We put small portions of glue on a wide spatula;
  2. Apply the solution to the wall with light movements;
  3. After the glue mixture has dried, the surface is thoroughly trowelled.

Decorative plastering

For a reliable attachment of the plaster layer, it is necessary to prime the surface. When using a primer, the base is protected from the effects of mold and mildew, and the adhesion of the surface increases.

Note! Decorative plaster should be applied to the wall after the primer is completely dry.

The finishing mixture is applied to the facade with a wide spatula. During these works, you need to ensure that the solution is located on the wall in the same layer. Its value will depend on the grain size of the plaster.

Finishing plastering

To get a textured surface, rollers or sponges are used. Such tools are especially effective when laying the bark beetle. At the last stage of work, after complete drying of the finishing layer, the facade is painted or additional protection of the coating with colorless varnish.

Some of the nuances of the process of plastering the facade with foam:

  • The work is recommended to be carried out in the warm season at positive air temperatures;
  • Plaster adheres better to the facade if a mesh with small cells was used for reinforcement;
  • When finishing, you need to use plaster, glue mixture and a primer from the same manufacturer;
  • Maintain a break in time for the drying of individual layers;
  • The primer is applied with a short-nap paint roller;

The absence of a reinforcing mesh will soon lead to plaster delamination.

Penoplex is an excellent insulation material that is often installed on the outer walls of a building. However, in order for this material to perform its functions efficiently, it is necessary to ensure its protection from external factors. environment... For these purposes, plaster is most often used. We will consider the features of its application on penoplex below.

Penoplex: features and benefits of using the material

Penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam is widely used as insulation. With its help, it is possible to provide thermal insulation of walls both outside and inside the room, floor, ceiling, floor slabs, foundation, roof, etc.

Among the main advantages of penoplex, we note:

  • very low thermal conductivity, this characteristic provides a decrease in heat losses in the room;
  • resistance to compression, the ability to withstand heavy loads;
  • duration of operation;
  • convenience and ease of installation;
  • affordable cost, which is consistent with its positive characteristics.

However, this insulation has certain disadvantages, namely:

  • low level of vapor permeability;
  • high level of fire safety;
  • resistance to rodents.

Penoplex wall plastering: features of the choice of material

Before starting work, you should decide on the type of plaster that will be used in the process of finishing the foam. There are several types of plaster solutions:

1. Mineral-based plaster - cement and various polymer additives are used for its manufacture. This type of plaster is characterized by low moisture absorption, resistance to mold and mildew, ease of application and work, and affordable cost. These characteristics make this option ideal for use as a finishing of thermal insulation materials.

2. Acrylic-based plaster - this material has high elasticity, excellent resistance to atmospheric precipitation, resistance to ultraviolet radiation. The use of this solution is relevant if the place of its application is under constant or periodic exposure to moisture. Cement plaster, in such places, can deform. The cost of acrylic-based plaster mortar is slightly higher than that of cement.

3. Mixtures on a silicate base - this type of plaster is distinguished by high efficiency, elasticity, high antistatic performance, vapor permeability, resistance to atmospheric precipitation. This type of plaster is used both indoors and for facade decoration.

In addition, when choosing a plaster for penoplex, pay attention to the duration of its operation. Acrylic-based plaster has the best performance characteristics. The second on this basis is the silicate type plaster, and less resistant to mechanical stress - mineral-based plaster. The performance indicators of the composition also depend on its texture, than textured plaster, the greater its resistance to the external environment.

The construction market has a large number of manufacturers of plaster, which is suitable specifically for penoplex. At the same time, one manufacturer has several options for plastering solutions. Some of them first glue the plates, while others protect them from external factors. Universal formulations perform both functions. We offer an overview of popular manufacturers of plastering compounds for penoplex:

1. The mixture "Ceresit" - differs in a vapor-permeable composition, however, it has low elasticity, therefore it needs additional coloring. Acrylic compositions of this manufacturer differ in front of ultraviolet radiation, however, the vapor permeability of this composition is at a low level. The silicone composition has a long service life and is well tolerated by solar radiation. This manufacturer offers several options for compositions for penoplex, and all of them are of good quality and long service life.

2. Compositions "Ecomix" - used for external and internal wall decoration. Among the advantages, we note: moisture resistance, environmental safety. But, Finishing work should be carried out exclusively in the warm season, at a temperature of at least 7 degrees Celsius. These materials are also used to get rid of cracks, deformations and chips on previously plastered surfaces.

3. “Stolit” - high quality cement and various stabilizers and modifiers are used for the manufacture of this composition. Therefore, the material is used in a wide temperature range, has good adhesion, moisture and frost resistance.

Penoplex plaster technology

In order to ensure proper protection of the building from moisture, ultraviolet radiation, high temperature, you should perform plastering of the walls using foam. This process consists of the following steps:

  • preparation of the mixture on a plaster base;
  • installation of a grid for applying plaster;
  • performing grouting on the walls;
  • coating the walls with a primer;
  • execution of facade plaster on foam.

In order to apply the plaster solution to the surface of the insulation, mixtures of different composition are used. However, all of them are intended to work with materials based on expanded polystyrene. Please note that the composition used in the plastering process must be made by one manufacturer. Since some manufacturers create mixtures on the basis of one universal mixture, which only protects the base. Other compositions contain two or more substances, one of which ensures proper adhesion of the plaster solution to the penoplex, and the second creates a protective layer.

With the help of a universal composition, it is possible to stick a plaster mesh on the wall surface. In order to glue the mesh on one square meter of insulation, about 4 kg of a universal composition will be required, if plastering also provides for leveling the surface, then this value increases to six kilograms.

In the process of making a solution for application to insulation, be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer. If the work is carried out with a plaster mesh, then the consistency of the composition should be more liquid than according to the manufacturer's instructions, thus it is possible to achieve excellent adhesion between the surface and the plaster.

The composition with which the leveling is performed should be such that it easily drains from the surface of the trowel. After preparing the solution for the foam under the plaster, the process of gluing the mesh follows, which primarily performs the function of additional reinforcement.

In addition, with the help of this mesh, the adhesion between the plaster and the insulation is improved. When choosing this material, we recommend giving preference to the mesh, which is used for working outside buildings. Its density should be from one hundred and forty to one hundred and sixty grams per cubic meter. The evenness of the resulting surface depends on the density of the mesh. However, a mesh that is too dense is not suitable for pasting corners.

Please note: cement is often included in the composition of plaster solutions, therefore, when choosing a mesh for plastering work, you should focus on a material that is resistant to an alkaline environment.

Work should start by pasting the corner sections. In order to stick the mesh, you should cut off a strip that is no more than 35 cm wide, and the length depends on the length of the corner. Fold the strip along the center, dividing it in two halves. Apply the mesh fixing compound with a spatula to the surface, while observing the optimal thickness of its application. It is about 2-3 mm. Place the mesh on a surface, press it down and fix it in the correct position on it.

After gluing the corner sections, the main part of the building should be pasted over with a mesh. To do this, it is most convenient to cut a mesh of 1 m in size.First, using a spatula, the composition is applied to the wall, the layer thickness is about 3 cm.Try to apply the composition not completely to the entire surface, but 90 cm. Step back on each side along 5 cm to compensate for seams. In order to apply the composition, use a medium spatula, the width of which is 30-35 cm.

Place the mesh on a surface and spread it from the center to the top and bottom. The mesh should adhere well to the surface and be pressed into it. To completely cover the mesh, add a little more mixture with a spatula.

After gluing one vertical strip, go to the adjacent area. At the same time, the mesh is laid in such a way that an overlap of at least 6-8 cm is obtained. Joints with corners are also glued in compliance with a certain overlap.

Please note that if at least one section of the wall has a space that the mesh did not hit, then it will stand out even after finishing. Therefore, the wall must be completely covered with mesh.

The next stage of work is the grouting of the mesh. For these purposes, a plastic float is used, on which there is an emery cloth. Grouting is performed only after the composition has completely dried. Drying time is indicated in the instructions from the manufacturer. If the weather is warm, then 4-6 hours is enough for the solution to dry, and in cold weather, you should wait at least a day.

In order to wipe the composition, make physical effort. Do the work in a circular motion.

Plastering the penoplex is the next stage of work. The final layer is leveling. In order to level the surface, it is recommended to use the same universal compound as when applying a protective layer. In order to apply a layer to level the wall, follow these steps:

  • for work, you will need two spatulas: a wide and a small one; using the first tool, the composition is applied to the wall and leveled on it, and the second spatula helps to apply plaster to the surface of a large spatula;
  • using a large spatula, the composition is applied to the surface with uniform movements;
  • the layer of plaster should be about three millimeters thick;
  • the application of the solution is carried out in fragments, while, try so that the joints of the fragments do not coincide with the joints of the mesh installed on the surface earlier.

The leveling layer should be trowelled in the same way as the protective layer of plaster.

Please note: the leveling layer is trowelled after 24 hours, after applying the plaster mortar. Do not grout after more than four days. Since the process, firstly, will be very complicated and will take a long time to complete, and secondly, there is a risk of damage to the integrity of the wall.

In order to fix the plaster on the surface of the insulation, a primer is used. Try to choose a composition in which quartz grains are present, in the event that further work will be associated with the application of another decorative plaster layer. If, in the future, you will paint the facade, then it is enough to use a regular primer intended for outdoor work.

Use a short nap roller to apply the primer. Try to avoid streaks on the surface of the walls. After the primer has dried, the process of finishing the walls follows. Its character depends on the individual preferences of the owners of the house. An excellent option is the application of decorative external plaster on the penoplex. The application technology of which is described below:

1. Apply the plaster with a medium to large trowel.

2. Try to apply the plaster evenly, the thickness of its application depends on the size of the grains that are part of the plaster.

3. In order to form a decorative texture, a sponge with large pores or a special float should be used.

4. After plastering the entire surface and after forming the texture, leave the plaster to dry completely.

5. Further, the surface is covered with varnish or paint, while the materials that are used for painting should be designed for outdoor use. They will help protect the plaster from moisture, temperature changes and other negative environmental factors.

In order for the coating to serve you as long as possible, choose high-quality materials for its finishing.

October 29, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Penoplex is one of the most common insulation materials today. However, despite this, not everyone knows that his exterior decoration requires a special approach, different from the finishing of foam or mineral wool. Therefore, so that your efforts, time and money are not wasted, in this article I will tell you how to properly decorate the facade with Penoplex.

Penoplex features

In order to further understand the subtleties and nuances of finishing the penoplex, first let's get acquainted with the features of this material. First of all, I note that its correct name is extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex is popularly called this insulation in honor of the company "Penoplex", which, as it is not difficult to guess, is engaged in its production.

Penoplex is based on ordinary polystyrene foam (polystyrene), which undergoes special processing under the influence of high temperatures. Thanks to this, he acquires the following qualities:

  • higher strength;
  • homogeneous smooth structure;
  • zero moisture absorption;
  • vapor permeability;
  • lower thermal conductivity than conventional foam.

Often, manufacturers add fire retardant additives to the penoplex, as a result of which the material acquires the G1 flammability class. True, only the most expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam from well-known manufacturers have this quality.

On the one hand, thanks to these properties, extruded polystyrene foam is a more attractive insulation. But on the other hand, due to zero moisture absorption and smooth homogeneous structure, this material has very poor adhesion. Therefore, initially it was not intended at all for use in “wet facade” insulation systems.

A big mistake for beginners is that they try to finish the styrofoam in the same way as regular styrofoam. This leads to the fact that the reinforcing mesh lags behind it along with the plaster (glue), immediately after hardening.

The price of polystyrene foam is several times higher than the cost of ordinary foam. Therefore, it makes sense to use this material only where its qualities, such as strength, are really important. For example, it can be used to decorate basements.

Foam finishing technology

The process of finishing the penoplex can be conditionally divided into several stages.

Extruded polystyrene foam can also be used in the arrangement of hinged (ventilated facades). In this case, the work is carried out in the same way as in the case of using other thermal insulation materials, such as foam.

Instrument preparation

So, before finishing the penoplex, you need to prepare a certain set of materials:

  • an adhesive primer such as Ceresit CT19;
  • Ceresit CT83 glue or its analogue;
  • fiberglass mesh for outdoor use;
  • perforated corners;
  • universal facade primer;
  • decorative facade plaster;
  • facade paint.

In addition, you should prepare the following inventory:

  • needle roller or metal brush;
  • a set of spatulas;
  • plaster bevel;
  • building level;
  • construction mixer or drill with a special attachment;
  • paint roller and pallet;
  • paint brush;
  • assembly knife.

Now you can get to work.

Preparation for reinforcement

Preparation for reinforcement is the most critical stage of the work, since it depends on it, the adhesion of finishing materials to the foam, respectively, and the durability of the entire finish. Instructions for performing preparatory work looks like this:

  1. first of all the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam must be roughened. To do this, treat the insulation with a needle roller or metal brush. You can also use ordinary sandpaper stretched over a jointer for these purposes;

  1. then the surface should be additionally treated with an external adhesive primer. To do this, pour the liquid into the roller tray and dip the roller itself into it. During application, make sure that the primer is applied in a thin, even layer.
    After the first layer of soil has dried, the procedure is repeated again;
  2. then you need to stick perforated corners on the outer corners of the foam, using Ceresit CT83. In the process of installing them, use the building level so that they are located strictly vertically or horizontally.

That's all the nuances of preparation. Now you can start reinforcing the penoplex.

Reinforcement

Do-it-yourself reinforcement of penoplex is carried out as follows:

  1. first cut the fiberglass mesh into the desired lengths. Please be aware that the mesh should be turned up at the corners and with an overlap of about 100 mm;
  2. then prepare Ceresit CT83 glue according to the instructions on the package;
  3. then apply the glue to a mesh-sized area with a thickness of about 5-7 mm;
  4. then process the area covered with glue with a notched spatula, while the excess glue that will remain on the spatula, throw back into the container with glue;
  5. now attach the mesh to the glue, after leveling it, and iron it with an even wide spatula. As a result, the mesh should be completely immersed in the glue;
  6. according to this scheme, it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface of the insulation;
  7. after the surface has solidified, it is necessary to apply another layer of glue about 3 mm thick. For the second layer, you can make the glue thinner to make it easier to work with.

In the process of applying the second layer, try to get rid of all surface imperfections, as if you were putting on the walls.

This completes the reinforcement of the insulation.

Decorative finishing

Decorative finishing of the foam from the outside is carried out as follows:

  1. start by treating the surface with a universal façade primer. This work is carried out according to the scheme described above;
  2. then you need to stir decorative plaster in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which is on the package;
  3. then the surface is covered with decorative plaster using a bevel or a wide spatula. The solution should be applied as thin as possible.

In the photo - rubbing decorative plaster

  1. after 5-7 minutes, when the plaster begins to set on the walls, grouting is performed. To do this, place the bean flat, and, slightly pressing it against the plaster, make circular or reciprocating movements with your hand;
  2. after the decorative plaster is dry, you can start painting the facade. The easiest way to accomplish this work is with a facade paint roller.

Try to apply the paint in a thin, even layer, and, of course, avoid drips. To paint a surface with high quality, paint in two or even three coats.

It is necessary to apply decorative plaster within one wall in one go, i.e. without interruption. Otherwise, the transition will be conspicuous even after painting.

This completes the exterior decoration. I must say that you can use penoplex for interior wall decoration, for example, if you need to insulate a loggia or. In this case, instead of decorative plaster, you can cover the reinforced surface with putty and then any topcoat.

Output

Despite poor adhesion, penoplex is quite amenable to finishing, which allows it to be used as a facade insulation. The only thing, this procedure requires strict adherence to technology. It is especially important to approach the preparation of the surface of the insulation for reinforcement.

October 29, 2016

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Cold weather is approaching, and more and more often we begin to think about how best to insulate our house. Penoplex is one of the best options: it is easy to use, affordable and has excellent qualities. When insulating the facade of a house with penoplex, do not forget to apply a protective layer of plaster, which will protect your insulation from weather and mechanical damage.

How to plaster penoplex?

First, let's figure out what mixtures are used for plastering foam. Most often for this purpose, universal mixtures are purchased from such leading manufacturers as Ceresit, Ecomix, Stolit. We prepare the mixture, strictly following the instructions, the only nuance that should be taken into account is the consistency. For gluing plaster mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than the manufacturer advises.

For the leveling layer, the mixture is made so liquid that it practically flows off the trowel. For gluing the mesh, approximately 4 kg of the mixture is consumed per square meter. The leveling layer requires 6 kg of mix per square meter.
When your solution is ready, you can proceed directly to the plastering process itself.

Penoplex plaster, process

Wall plastering is a process that involves starting the walls and leveling them using wet mixes. The work process itself can be divided into several stages.

Stage one. Preparation.

At this stage of work, you should make a thorough grouting of the foam in order to avoid any irregularities and depressions and bumps. You should not rush, because the success of the whole process will depend on how well you do your job.

Second phase. Bonding plaster mesh - reinforcement. This is a very important stage and if you skip it, then in the future, a layer of plaster applied directly to the penoplex, without the use of a facade mesh, will undergo various cracks and will be short-lived.
On the prepared surface of the penoplex, apply a layer of adhesive mixture, no more than 2-3 ml thick, and glue the mesh onto it.

Do not forget about some of the nuances that are very important when performing the work of this stage:
- the mesh should be pressed into the applied universal compound no more than half, while the entire mesh surface should be completely immersed in the adhesive mixture. The mixture should be applied in stages. This is usually done in strips no more than one meter wide (the standard width of the facade mesh);
- the facade mesh should be glued only to a fresh composition, while it should be trampled down with a smooth trowel;
- the strips should be laid overlapping each other. The allowance must be made at least 10 cm. Particular attention must be paid to pasting the corners, from which it is advised to start work on reinforcement. In order to properly glue the corners, take a strip 30 cm wide and about a meter long, bend it in half to form a clear ridge in the middle, and in this state, attach it to the corner and press it into the adhesive composition.

Fourth stage. After your reinforcement layer is completely dry, you need to take care of grouting over the entire surface of the facade mesh. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a plastic grater with an emery cloth.

It is important to remember that that the drying time of the mixture varies depending on the weather conditions, therefore, on a hot summer day, it is enough to wait only two or three hours and start grouting. In the cold season, it is better not to risk it and give at least one day to dry the mixture.

Rubbing should be done in a circular motion, without applying any special efforts for this. The direction of movement is counterclockwise.

Fifth stage: apply a leveling layer. For this purpose, the same universal mixture is used as for reinforcement. Apply the mixture with a spatula, evenly distributing it over the entire surface. In this case, the thickness of the layer should not exceed three millimeters.

Sixth stage. Finalization
This stage is the final one in the process of plastering the foam. It consists in grouting the entire surface. This should be done in the same way as grouting the reinforcing layer, and also only after the leveling layer is completely dry. Here it is important to remember the drying time of the mixture.
Grouting should be started at the end of one day. In the cold season, you can give extra time. It is also not worth delaying the process, since usually at the end of four days the mixture can harden so much that it will simply be impossible to grout.

After you have completely rubbed the surface of the walls, the plastering process will be completely completed and you can proceed to the next type of work - putty.

Can Penoplex be putty?

Putty is the finishing of walls using special putty mixtures. Most often, for these works, acrylic or powder putty is used, intended for facade work.

What finishing fillers are there?

All putties have proved to be the best. brand Ceresit, but if you trust another manufacturer, then you can use putties from another company. The putty should be selected based on the surface on which it will be applied. For wall putty, there are both powder mixtures and pasty ones. Paste mixtures, in turn, are subdivided into acrylic, adhesive, silicone, latex, oil and combined. For penoplex, acrylic and powdery putty has proven itself well.

When choosing a putty mixture for facade work, first of all, you need to pay attention to the binders in it, and how high-quality these substances are. Depending on the quality of the bonding element, the putty can be very resistant or, conversely, unstable to various weather conditions: cold, damp, heat, frost.
So, for example, if later you plan to paint the facade, then you can use a good quality Ceresit CT-225 putty, which is a good base for painting and has such qualities as frost resistance, impact resistance and moisture resistance. Having picked up a high-quality putty, you can be sure that over time your finish will not crack or crumble.

Also, when choosing a putty for your facade, consult with the seller so that he can help you choose the one that is moisture resistant and not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise you will simply waste money and time on outdoor work. It is important to remember that those putties that are intended for interior work are completely unsuitable for the facade, so you should not save money so that you do not have to redo the work.

The process of applying putty on the wall. Putty preparation

If you decide to use a powder putty, then first it should be diluted. To do this, put water in a bucket (a little less than half) and carefully pour in the powder, stirring continuously with a mixer. The consistency should be roughly similar to mashed potatoes.
After the mixture reaches the desired consistency, it should be left in a calm state for 5 minutes, and then beat again and you can start working. Acrylic plaster is applied to the wall immediately without preliminary preparation.

The process of applying putty on the wall

To apply the filler, use a very wide spatula, on which the mixture is placed with a small, narrow spatula that fits freely in the bucket. At finishing it is very important that each new finish area merges with the previous one, previously putty. The joints should be almost invisible, so if you are not sure of your skills, then it is better to invite a specialist for this work, who will do everything quickly and efficiently.

Before applying the putty, do not forget to treat the wall with a special primer, which will give additional waterproofing. The layer of putty to be applied should not exceed 5 ml; after it has completely dried, the entire surface should be trowelled. Rub in a circular motion counterclockwise, using an abrasive mesh. Do not forget that grouting should be done no earlier than 3-4 hours after applying the mixture. After finishing grouting, you need to apply a primer again, this will help get rid of dust particles on the surface of the walls and make the surface of the facade perfectly flat.

Upon completion of the drying of the primer, the next process of work begins - painting.

Can Penoplex be painted? How to paint?

The finishing of the insulation will be more durable and aesthetically pleasing if it is subjected to the dyeing process. But be careful: not all putties benefit from staining, so read the instructions on the packaging of the applied putty.
In the instructions, you probably should find all the answers to your questions: is it possible to use paint, and what composition should the paint have in order to ideally match your putty. When choosing a paint, one should also take into account the chemical characteristics of the insulation itself, since not all paint is suitable for penoplex. Only if you choose the right paint, taking into account all the nuances, your facade will be durable and of high quality.

Choice of paint

Some facade paints are capable of destroying penoplex, so the choice should be made, guided, first of all, by physical and chemical characteristics insulation and paint.

Which paints should you not choose?

For penoplex, paints that contain the following substances are not suitable: benzene, toluene, xylene, acetone, coal and polyester resins, gasoline, kerosene, drying oil.

When dyeing penoplex, in no case use solvents such as acetone, kerosene, gasoline, White spirit, all these substances practically corrode the insulation.

Penoplex paints
1. Mineral paints. They contain lime and cement, which are absolutely safe for insulation, and therefore they can and should be used. Mineral paints do not contain any of the harmful substances, so that the facade of the building will not suffer at all.
2. Facade material based on silicate glass. The composition of this material also does not pose any threat to the decoration of the building and, of course, to the insulation.
3. Water-based paint for external work. Paints in this category are also not prohibited for penoplex, the only nuance worth remembering when choosing a water-based paint is that it should be designed specifically for facade work, only in this case it will be highly resistant to moisture and other weather influences.

Water-based paints have the following advantages:

- one of the most significant benefits it is their environmental friendliness. They are completely safe for the human body, so no additional precautions are required when working with them;
- the surface covered with them has increased resistance to aggressive environmental factors;
- have a water-repellent effect;
- are resistant to dirt;
- low level of water absorption, this advantage is also a very significant factor when choosing a paint for penoplex;
- a large assortment colors, which makes it possible to paint the facade of the house in any color and shade;
- low cost. Thanks to this advantage, water-based paints are becoming more popular;
- the ratio of price and quality is also a decisive factor when choosing a paint.

Important! If you decide to carry out the work on plastering, plastering and painting of the facade insulated with penoplex on your own, do not forget about all the recommendations given in this article, or consult a specialist who will certainly help you choose mixtures, paint and putty that meets all the necessary requirements.

Video "Penoplex plaster"

Hello everybody. Alexander Tkachev is with you again. I continue to renovate the apartment. Immediately after the installation of the technoplex on the walls of the loggia, I made it reinforced plaster special plaster and glue mixture "Ceresit 85" good insulation, but with its own minus. The downside is its flammability. Therefore, I did not postpone the plaster for later, but began to do it immediately after the end of the installation, which I am writing about in this publication.

Since I did this work for the first time, I naturally got acquainted with the instructions for plastering Technoplex insulation.
First, What I did was rip the entire plane of the technoplex with an old hacksaw blade. The furrows were horizontal, without gaps. As a result, the surface of the technoplex turned out to be rough.

And the roughness contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the technoplex, which is what we need !!!
Second what needs to be done is to glue the facade mesh to reinforce the technoplex. The task was to keep the mesh inside the plaster layer at a certain distance from the Technoplex.

Kneading plaster and glue mixture

For this I used a metal toothed float. I apply the mixed adhesive mixture on the wall in a strip to the width of a 1m roll of mesh. and about 1cm thick. Then I make a comb with a notched float.

In this case, a notched trowel with a tooth height of 8mm was used. Next, I apply the mesh to the comb and press this mesh evenly over the entire area with the smooth side of the grater.

So, I'm doing it meter by meter until the entire wall is covered with this mesh to reinforce the technoplex. In this case, the mesh will be embedded in the adhesive mixture at a distance of 3-5mm. from the surface of the technoplex. And this is enough for the mesh to work like an armature, and not like a simple layer !!!
Third what we need to do is install beacons,

and of course plaster on the lighthouses. We can read how to install beacons. After the lighthouses have dried so much that the rule will not push them, you can start the plaster itself. The actual plaster consists in mixing the plaster and glue mixture according to the instructions. Then, in any available way, distribute this mixture between the beacons (it sticks to the plexus easily), and pull it off with a rule.

If after the rule there are pits, then we again fill it with a solution and tighten it, achieving a flat surface. The next day, the lighthouses are pulled out. Lighthouse gates are sealed with the same solution.

After our plaster has hardened, we grout the entire plane with a metal float using the same mixture

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