Do-it-yourself low bed. How to make a bed of wood yourself

When it became necessary to add another sleeping place at the dacha, it was decided at the family council that it would be a double bed. The dimensions of 1.6 by 2.0 meters were determined for a reason, but because this is a very common size of a mattress (the same in a city apartment) and its purchase will not cause problems. And so it turned out later.

I will make a double bed according to my drawings and of course with my own hands. Installation will be carried out directly at the installation site, having previously prepared all the details.
The article turned out to be voluminous and detailed, so be patient.

If you are going to make such a double bed with your own hands, then below you will find detailing, dimensional drawings, photographs, as well as a 3D model of this bed.

Since the project is quite complex, you need to prepare tools and materials before starting work.

Tools

• Circular saw.
• Drill.
• Set of drills.
• Screwdriver.
• A jigsaw or a hacksaw for wood.
• Sander.
• Building corner.
• Clamps.
• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Putty knife.

Materials (edit)

• Bar 100 * 100 * 330 mm - 4 pcs. (bed legs).
• Board 195 * 45 * 1690 mm - 4 pcs. (front - back board of the frame and headboard).
• Board 95 * 45 * 1690 mm - 1 pc. (headboard).
• Board 195 * 45 * 2000 mm - 2 pcs. (side boards of the frame).
• Board 95 * 45 * 1400 mm - 2 pcs. (inner front and back boards of the frame).
• Board 95 * 45 * 1800 mm - 2 pcs. (inner side boards of the frame).
• Board 95 * 45 * 1910 mm - 1 pc. (inner longitudinal board of the frame).
• Bed lamella (820 * 63 * 8 mm bent plywood) - 24 pcs.
• Overhead lat-holders targeting (for lamellae 63 * 8 mm) - 48 pcs.
• Birch dowel 10x50 (30pcs)
• Steel corner 50 * 50 mm - 12 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 5 * 80 mm - 150 pcs. (for assembling bed parts).
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 35 mm - 50 pcs. (for attaching steel corners).
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm - 100 pcs. (for attaching lateral holders).
• Joiner's glue.
• Wood putty.

Based on materials:

As a result, I bought 2 boards 195 * 45 * 6000 mm and 2 boards 95 * 45 * 6000 mm. All boards are dry and planed.
The cut to size was made on the spot in the store (for a fee), so all the materials fit into the trunk of my car with the rear seats folded.
As a result, I "killed" two birds with one stone: they sawed the boards exactly to size, and saved on delivery.
A piece of 100 * 100 mm timber remained with me after the construction of the shed and that is why I decided to use it to make the legs of the bed. You can use any other material as legs.

Lamellas (armor), as well as lath holders, look in specialized stores or online stores, in ordinary building hypermarkets they are rare and if there is, then in a small assortment.

By size:

Using the basic dimensions for the desired size of the mattress (I have 2000 * 1600 * 180 mm), you can change the dimensions for those that are convenient for you. For example, the height of the legs of the bed or the height of the side boards.
The only thing that is not worth it is to reduce the thickness of the inner longitudinal board (45 mm), which divides the bed in half. this value is determined by the seat of the lateral holders on one side and the other.

Assembling the bed: diagrams and sizes

So, if all the tools are prepared, and the materials are cut to size, then you can start assembling the bed. And let's start, of course, with the base frame.

Frame fabrication

We start the assembly from the main boards and legs of the bed, fastening them together with self-tapping screws.

With the help of clamps, we fix the legs to the side boards. We drill holes in the boards - the diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Do not forget to countersink the holes for the screw head.

The side and center boards should be fixed 10 mm lower, because they will be equipped with lamella holders. The photo below shows why this should be done.

Before assembly, I smeared all the parts with wood glue and for reliability (reliability is never superfluous) I reinforced all the corners in the joints of the bed frame with steel corners. The photo below shows.

Under the middle board for reinforcement, I made and installed a stand-leg from a piece of timber. You can use any other design, for example, make boards from scraps or buy a ready-made cylindrical one from metal, if you find the right size.

Puttying and sanding the frame

Now that the bed frame is, in principle, ready, you can begin to refine the appearance, namely, to putty the mounting holes, as well as other visible wood defects. To do this, use a special wood filler.

Apply the first layer of putty, trying to fill the holes as much as possible, leave to dry following the manufacturer's recommendations on the package.

Important! Do not try to putty all problem areas the first time - it still won't work. Correctly putty should be done in 2-3 stages, with intermediate drying and abrasive treatment.

Sand the dried filler with a coarse abrasive such as P80. I used an orbital sander with Velcro abrasive discs. You can sand with a piece of skin on a flat bar, but this is more laborious.

Blow off the remaining dust, apply a second layer of putty and repeat the drying-sanding step.

Finally, we grind the entire surface of the frame to a pleasant smoothness. First with abrasive P80 and then with finer abrasive P120-180. There was a lot of dust, of course ...

While the putty dries, we don't waste time - you can start making the headboard, if you need it, of course. Below I will tell you how I did it.

Assembling the backboard board

Since the double bed turned out to be quite heavy, I decided to make the backrest removable, in case the bed needs to be moved to another room.

For the headboard, you can take a ready-made furniture board, or you can do it yourself. I bought two six-meter boards and from the leftovers, just three trims were obtained for making the back (they are in the list of materials above).

I decided to splice three boards into a shield using dowels and glue. In order for the holes for the dowels to match perfectly, I applied the following "trick" - having marked the centers of the holes on the edge of the board, I punched nails into them without a cap.
To make all the carnations stick out at the same height, hammer them in with pliers as in the photo below.

Aligning the second board from above along the edges, I tapped it with a mallet on top and received reciprocal dents on it.
To drill holes for the dowels to a certain depth, I glued red electrical tape to the drill so that it could be seen.

Having prepared the holes (cleaned of sawdust and cut off the burrs), I put the dowels on the glue (pictured below). Having missed the mating edge with wood glue, I drive the second board into place with the help of a mallet.
The same operation must be done with the third board of the headboard.

Due to the lack of wide clamps (I will definitely need to buy), I am smart and with the help of a car jack (used for laying floors) I squeeze the shield of three boards in the doorway and wait a couple of hours until the glue dries.

After gluing, I send the board for trimming and grinding. The most suitable place for this dusty work is the yard.

Having cut off the upper corners, I grind with an orbital, abrasive P80. By grinding, I remove small steps at the joints of the boards and sharp corners.

The result is a pretty decent backboard for the headboard.

It remains to put the back in place and fix it. To do this, I do the same operation with dowels, only without glue.

Installation of lamellas

Since the length of the lamellas exceeds the required one, they should be cut into the required size.

Putting lat holders on the ends of the lamellas, we fix them to the support boards with self-tapping screws 3.5 * 12 mm. The distance between the lamellas in my case is 92 mm.

3D model of a double bed

Click on the picture, wait for loading and use the held left mouse button to rotate the model. Rotating the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. View in full screen - the icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.
To fully view three-dimensional models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer from the official website (free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the preview window.

There are many recipes on the Internet for how to make a bed yourself. We will not repeat them. We will tell you how to make a real bed with your own hands, which, like old ones, can go to children and grandchildren, withstanding everything that happens on it. But such a bed will hardly cost more than the cheapest purchased one, and nothing will be spent on it with labor and materials. True, it will take 10 days due to the necessary technological breaks.

This bed is wooden, made exclusively from environmentally friendly materials. When assembling, nitro glue is used once in a small amount, but mostly completely harmless PVA. The finished product will look something like the one shown in the figure. The shape and design of the headboard with footboard is at your discretion; the parameters and quality of the entire structure do not depend on them at all.
Our double bed has one more feature: the complete absence of connections visible to the eye - fastener heads, brackets, etc., and their minimum number. In the creation of the bed, some design and technological methods of wooden aircraft construction were used, which at the dawn of its era also borrowed a lot from furniture makers.

Materials (edit)

The outward facing parts of the bed are made of MDF with a fine wood grain or laminate; both are 20-30 mm thick. If comic pillow fights, etc. stormy events with the owners not in the factory, then it is quite possible to do with 16 mm blanks. It is preferable to MDF - it is not laminated, and this will allow you to do without nitro glue and collect everything on PVA; it does not adhere laminated surfaces. Internal parts are made of wood or plywood with a thickness of 10-20 mm.

Let's say right away - it is easier and cheaper to order blanks or MDF or laminate at the nearest furniture shop. It will be much more expensive to buy sheets yourself at the retail price. Furniture makers will cut them exactly to size and trim them off - they will cover the ends of the PVC in the tone of the texture or contrasting, as you wish. Edging thickness - 0.2-2 mm.

From sawn timber you will need to buy a beam of 50x50 mm, about 8-8.5 m (you can in pieces), a couple of boards (30-40) x100 mm, always solid, 2 m long.On the deck deck flooring (see below) you will need 20x100 boards mm, ten to one and a half pieces of 1.6 m each or ordinary construction plywood, from ten to twenty, 2000x1600 mm. Boards are preferable, they are cheaper, and the dimensions of a standard plywood sheet with the dimensions of the bed do not agree well.

All lumber - edged, planed. Any kind of wood. Independent additional processing, except for sawing to size and sampling of quarters and grooves, is not required.

Note: for a bed with boxes (see below), you will also need chipboard. You can take any cheapest one; parts from it are loaded only in compression and a little. But chipboard will not work for flooring a lounger, it is not elastic.

Fasteners

Expensive special accessories: minifixes, confirmations, eccentric adjusters, etc. are not used in the described design. At the same time, its strength and durability are higher than those of serial samples, and its weight is less. This has become possible thanks to the manufacturing technology with rather long breaks. Professional furniture makers need to quickly assemble products for sale in accordance with quality standards, otherwise they will go bankrupt. And a homemade bed can wait until it is brought to full condition. Using this circumstance, it was possible to obtain a design that is simpler, cheaper and better than the factory ones.

You will need the following hardware:

1. Self-tapping screws 5-6 mm, ordinary phosphated (black, the cheapest). Length - the sum of the thicknesses of the parts to be joined minus 10 mm. How many of which specifically is calculated according to the selected from the structures described below.
2. Nails 60-70 mm.
3. Steel corners with a stiffener.

Note: since all connections are made with gluing, then the best self-tapping screws are phosphated, their surface is slightly rough. PVA will fall worse on smooth shiny fasteners.

You should pay special attention to the corners. First, the stiffener. It should be wide and rounded as shown in the picture. Secondly, the fold and embossing surfaces must be perfectly smooth. Burrs, ripples are a sign of raw, and then burnt and overtightened metal. These corners are prone to fatigue and can crack for no apparent reason.

Connections

All connections, as said, are made with gluing. On flat surfaces, glue is applied with a zigzag sausage (on both), accelerated with a small notched spatula. Then it is kept until liquid tack (3-10 minutes), the parts are assembled into a knot and pulled together with metal fasteners also on glue, see below.

Self-tapping screws

Blind holes are drilled under the screws in advance, on dry parts. Depth - 2/3 of the length of the self-tapping screw. Diameter - 3/4 of the body thickness of the self-tapping screw without thread. For 5 mm self-tapping screws, this will be 2.5 mm; for 6 mm - 3 mm. For precise matching of holes in prefabricated units, the parts to be connected are temporarily fastened with clamps, at the ends and between the edges, one at 0.5 m in length.

Calculation example: Let's say a frame beam is connected to a sidebar made of 20 mm MDF, see below. The total thickness is 70 mm. Self-tapping screws are needed 10 mm shorter, see above; we take 6x60 mm. We make holes for them with a depth of 40 mm. At the same time, a bar-fifty will not be pierced through. This means that you also need to glue and drive screws with clamps.

Note: in the factory, the timber would be drilled through and through, and they would also have drilled a blind counter board. But this is only for the sake of speed and ease of assembly. In this case, the connection is strongly weakened. It is better for yourself to do it painstakingly, but much stronger. Also, by the way, the best masters make and exclusive to order.

Next, drop the water-polymer emulsion to the top into the blind holes. When it is absorbed (this is a few minutes), coat the inside with PVA with a thin stick. Then we apply glue on the plane, as described above, squeeze the parts with clamps and drive in dry self-tapping screws. There is no point in applying glue to the thread - it will squeeze outward along the thread when screwing. The self-tapping screw will drive the glue in the hole into the tree; in its array, something like a glue pear is formed, firmly holding the part, like an anchor. The clamps can be removed one day after assembly.

Notes:

1. Have you seen screws in the cracked old furniture, falling out from the chips of wood or fiberboard adhered to the thread? They were driven by dipping them in glue, rather than smearing the holes from the inside.
2. A water-polymer emulsion is not sold in small packages, but a glass and a half will be required for a bed. Therefore, instead of it, we dilute with water 3-5 times, to translucency and an aqueous liquid, a little PVA. We cook in small portions as needed: homemade emulsion is not stored even in a closed container.

Nails

For nails, you do not need to drill anything in advance: we glue the parts under oppression or in clamps, then we fix them with nails. But there are still two nuances:

• Nails must be taken with a ring notch (see the figure on the right). It is with a circular, not a spiral or point.
• You need to score after 12-16 hours. after gluing; preferably without removing the clamp or load. If the place under the nail is covered, then, after removing the clamp and hammering, we squeeze the parts again before the expiration of a day or two from gluing.

The point here is that the notch of the nail drives the remnants of the glue into the wood. Then, when the tree dries out, the nail will still hold tight.

Dowels and dowels

Probably everyone saw the dowels, not knowing what it is. Dowel is a round wooden lug in two blind holes, connecting wooden parts in a secret. Dowel joints are extremely widely used in furniture and joinery, but, alas, they dry out over time and cease to hold. For durability for generations, dowels must be replaced with dowels. In serial production, pins are not used - the production process slows down and the cost of production turns out to be unacceptable.

How a dowel is obtained from a dowel is shown in the left position of the figure on the right:

1. Soak the well from the inside with an emulsion and coat with glue;
2. At the end of the boss slightly, just not to fall out, we drive (bait) a wedge about 1 mm thick from hard wood or fiberglass;
3. The dowel (already the dowel) is hammered into the hole with a mallet;
4. We bait the same wedge on the protruding surface of the nail;
5. We saturate and coat the reciprocal hole;
6. We put on the mating part and knock it down with a mallet until it fits tightly.

The most important condition for the reliability of the connection is that the wedge should be oriented across the grain of the wood, the left pos. on the picture. If the parts are connected at an angle - along the bisector of the angle. When connected at a right angle - with a turn of 45 degrees to either side. In this case, the wedges on different sides of the dowel should be oriented perpendicular to each other.

The maximum permissible diameter of the boss is half the thickness of the board or smallest parts to be connected. Minimum - 5% of the board width, but not less than 5 mm. Thus, for a 30x200 board, 10-12 mm bosses are needed, and for 50x50 beams - 15-20 mm. The length of the bosses is 2-3 of their diameters. The depth of the mating hole in a thin piece is half of its thickness.

The bolt connections hold for decades even without gluing in the harshest operating conditions. And with gluing and at home - for generations, and the wood may not be seasoned of low quality, i.e. cheap.

For your information : Drakkars and knorrs of Vikings, kogs of Hanseatic merchants and pomor kochi were sewn with dowels. The ships of the southern seas preferred bronze and red-copper nails. Copper compounds slowly oozing into the water, to some extent, frightened off borers and fouling organisms, which swarmed and raged in warm waters.

Dimensions (edit)

The dimensions of the double bed are recommended for ergonomic reasons 2 m in length and 1.6 m in width. They can, if desired, be increased to 2.4x2 m; even more is difficult to do using conventional manufacturing techniques and materials of construction.

A standard single bed is 1.9-2 m long and 0.9 m wide. On this occasion, people of ordinary build can fit together. With a lack of space, the width can be reduced to that of the carriage shelf - 550 mm. But at the same time, there must be a side rail, even at the bed for adults.

The height of the bed surface (along the top of the mattress) is within 350-500 mm, depending on the height and build of the owner. The upper limit is better for those with a shin that is longer than the thigh, and vice versa. Fashionable "Japanese" beds with a height of 220-260 mm - only fashion. The thickness of the most dusty layer of the air in the room is 200-300 mm from the floor. Therefore, children's and teenage beds should also be of an adult total height, the smallest for convenience needs to be made a step.

The height of the bed is distributed as follows: 180-300 mm - mattress, 150-200 mm - drawers, the rest - bedside space. It can turn out to be close to 0. In this case, you need to make a bed with drawers: without ventilation from underneath, the bed will soon suffocate, begin to exude miasma, or even become sticky to the touch. The minimum height of the bed area is 80 mm.

Mattress

The lion's share of the cost of a homemade bed is spent on the mattress. Because of it, problems may arise when designing a bed on your own. Finally, if you are to make the bed yourself, then the convenience should be absolute, and the purchased mattress should be taken expensive. Therefore, we will figure out how to put a finished mattress on a lounger without difficulties, or how to inexpensively make your own for yourself, not inferior to the best orthopedic ones.

A warning: homemade mattress is completely individual, and only for adults over 25 years old, whose bones are completely ossified and stopped growing, and who are able to understand their feelings and interpret them correctly. The children's bed must be equipped with a special factory-made mattress, otherwise visits to the orthopedist are very likely with the corresponding costs. The high price of orthopedic mattresses is precisely due to the fact that they must be made suitable for people. different heights, weight and build.

Styling

Usually, the mattress is simply put in the cradle - a depression formed by the flooring of the bed and the sides of the side of the bed - tsar, on the left in Fig. If this method of laying is supposed, then before taking up the bed, you need to buy a mattress. The sizes of branded ones, even from the same batch, can differ from the standard 2000x1600 mm by plus or minus 10 mm. In the event of a miss, the mattress will either not fit into the cradle, or there will be a wide slot-garbage collector around the perimeter.

Note: the gap around the perimeter of the mattress is still necessary for the convenience of refilling the sheet. But no more than 3-4 mm. This must be taken into account when calculating the size of a homemade bed.

Tossing and turning on a bed with a mattress in the lodgment, sometimes you have to stumble upon a tree of sides. It is uncomfortable and can be painful if it hits the calf or ankle. Therefore, the flooring of the bed is often raised to the level of the top of the tsars (for this it is necessary to move the bar frame upwards, see below) and the entire bed is made in the width of the mattress, on the right in Fig. The mattress is protected from slipping with lugs made of wood waste, plywood, drywall, EPS. Clamps are glued to a completely soft mattress; to a mattress with a rigid base - they are attached with self-tapping screws or nailed. Holes are drilled or cut out under the clips in the deck deck flooring.

Homemade

Making a homemade mattress is elementary: foam rubber of different brands with mosaic layers, PVA glue - that's all. Foam rubber will need three grades: 45 - the most dense and elastic, 35 - medium elastic, 25 - soft. The number of layers is 6. The total height of the mattress is increased against the standard 180-200 mm, this must be compensated for by the height of the drawers and legs. The design of the mattress is clear from the figure, it is also shown on which parts of the body which indoor unit should have to.

Note: layers and their blocks are not glued together over the entire plane, for ventilation. You need to glue with an envelope; at least 60% of the horizontal areas must remain free. And no more than 80% - for strength.

The quality of the foam rubber when buying is checked "for shooting": it is squeezed to the limit with your fingers and abruptly released. The material should be straightened instantly, following the fingers. If a gradually disappearing depression is noticeable, the foam rubber is suitable for anything except a mattress.

The location of the inner stops made of dense foam rubber is determined individually. Experimental equipment - 4 pillows covered with a cotton blanket or 2-3 jacquard pillows. For a paired mattress, the lumbar support is positioned according to the convenience of the fair half (it is assumed that the pair is normal and the partner is lower). If there is a significant difference in height, the headrest needs to be widened. The dense sidewalls of the 4th layer prevent the sleepers from rolling.

Double single

Structural elements

The bed, when viewed from the outside, is a rectangular frame of two backs, a headboard with a footboard, and sidewalls - tsars. Inside, one piece with the backs and drawers is a supporting bar frame. In the wide bed there are also longitudinal stiffeners - spars, one or more. The bar frame is closed with a flooring made of boards or plywood (see Fig.), Forming a flat plane - a lounger - or a recess-lodgment. The deck should have slots or openings for ventilation. This information is enough to build a bed yourself. Let's get started.

Notes:

1. Sometimes the recommended upward deflection of the lounger is archaism. This was done at a time when the sun beds were covered with mattresses and feather beds, which had absolutely no elasticity. Any modern mattress does not care whether it is a flat bed or a curved one. But the curved one is more difficult and more expensive.
2. The diameter of the holes in the plywood bed is 30-40 mm. The slots in the board are from the thickness to the width of the board. The first is stronger, but more boards are needed. For ourselves, we look at the total weight of the lying ones: up to 140 kg the maximum slots; 180 and more are the minimum.

About corners and pegs

The most important and most loaded places of the bed are the corners. Therefore, the details of the bed in the corners are combined into one twice: with dowels in the boards and quarters of the bar frame. The holes for the pins must match exactly, so they are marked during the pre-assembly process, see below.

Back

The backrest construction is shown in the figure. The top can be anything you like. Cross bar 50x50 is attached with glue and self-tapping screws. Glue - PVA for backs from MDF or "Moment", etc. for laminate flooring. The cutouts in the center are for the side member mustache, see below, 25 mm deep and 40 mm wide. The distance between the inner edges of the cutouts is 50 or 40 mm, depending on which cuttings will go to the connection of the lateral stiffness of the side member, see also below.

This back is rigid. The soft back (which, of course, wherever convenient) is special, enough complex construction, and . Back thickness - 24-40 mm. The lesser value applies to customized laminate / MDF; more - to a homemade type-setting of planed boards. In this case, it is assembled by gluing from two panels of 20 mm thick, the boards in which are oriented perpendicular to each other. They are glued over the entire PVA plane with a dispersed notched trowel. Dry for a week under a load distributed over the entire plane with a total weight of at least 80 kg. Painted with stain several times to the desired tone or with stain; then the wood texture will be highlighted.

The length of the bar A depends on the size and way of laying the mattress. If it fits into the cradle, then A is equal to its width plus 6-10 mm. For a standard double bed, respectively, 1606-1610 mm. If the mattress is superimposed on the lounger, then A will be its width minus the double thickness of the sideboards and minus another 10 mm. For a standard mattress and sideboards made of forty - 1600- (2x40) -10 = 1510 mm.

The width of the backrest B for the headboard is any no less than the width of the mattress plus double thickness of the drawers (mattress in the cradle) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on a lounger). The width of the foot is exactly the width of the mattress plus double the thickness of the drawers (mattress in the cradle) or the width of the mattress plus 10 mm (mattress on a lounger). The footboard, even slightly widened, significantly impairs the comfort of the bed. Making it high or flush with the sidewalls is a master's business.

The design shown does not require legs. The cutout at the bottom is also optional - on a flat floor, the headboard with the footboard will become all the lower ends. This will only make things easier and less litter under the bed. If you still want the legs, you need to substitute them under the corners of the bar frame, on glue or grabbing them with a couple of nails without much effort. The entire load on the legs is from above. Known for decades standing on bricks and books. Which, of course, is barbarism, but they do not fall.

Tsargi

The design of the drawer side is also clear from the drawing: it is a T-shaped beam made of a fifty-piece bar and a board of 20-40 mm. Assembly - on glue and self-tapping screws, as already described. The length of the timber and the board are the same; the described bed does not require complex calculations of grooves and cutouts. The pins of the dowels are shown conditionally, they are placed after preliminary assembly.

It is not necessary to order sawing from furniture makers for side boards. An edged planed board, thirty or forty, 150-200 mm wide, will go. They paint it in advance with a stain or mordant, as described. You can not paint from the inside, the bed will only breathe easier.

Antique bed frames are authentic pieces of decorative art, but modern furniture is designed with minimalism in mind. Low drawers in any interior do not strike the eye, therefore varnishing, polishing and, in general, decor are not needed for them, if only they were in tune.

Note: for the sake of simplicity of work and economy, the footboard is often made the same in design as the drawers. In this case, it should be somehow finished: varnished, laminated; this detail is immediately visible. Then the legs at the back are also needed, for the sake of the overall design and ease of cleaning, see fig. on right. How to attach the legs - described earlier.

The location of the bar in height is possible in two ways. For a mattress in the lodgement - the indentation of the top of the beam from the top of the board is 30-50 mm (this is the deepening of the mattress into the lodgement) plus 20 mm, if the plank flooring is boardwalk, or the thickness of plywood (12-20 mm), if it is plywood. For a mattress on a lounger, the indent from the top of the board is simply equal to the thickness of the flooring, or even 2-3 mm less so that the edges of the underside of the mattress do not rub against the sideboards.

Spar

The plan view of the bed base is shown in the figure. Possible locations of the mattress retainers are shown conditionally. The openings for the clips are selected already in the deck chair flooring. For reliable fixation, you need 4 in the corners or 2 between the flanges of the side member. For the mattress in the lodgement, clips are not needed at all.

The spar is in the figure a longitudinal connection in the middle. Usually, three spars are made in a double bed, each from one 40x100 mm board. The proposed design is similar to the spar of a wooden aircraft wing. It is stronger, stiffer and allows you to do with two of the same boards.

Transverse stiffening inserts between the shelves are made of scraps of the same board or timber from the frame. There should be 4-7 of them along the length of the spar, evenly distributed. At the ends of the shelves, quarters up to a mustache of 25x50 mm are selected, for cutouts in the transverse beams of the frame. The top of the flanges of the side member and the beams of the frame must form one plane.

The spar is assembled on glue and nails. Each insert requires 4 nails; 2 diagonally on each side. Diagonals from different sides - crosswise.

Assembling the bed

Preliminary

Upon the manufacture of the frame elements, the backs (the footboard is already with legs, if so conceived) are placed vertically, propped up with stools or boxes. Then the drawers are applied and the rectangularity of the frame is verified along the diagonals. Wrap the assembly with rope, check the diagonals again and level the frame.

Now you need to mark the places for the pins connecting the sideboards with the backs. To do this, draw lines from the boards to the backs with a pencil from the inside in the corners, having previously noted the height; need 2 dowels per end. The distance from the top and bottom is half the distance between the bosses, i.e. we divide the width of the board by 4, 1/4 from the top and bottom; between the bosses - 2/4.

We remove the tsars and drill holes in the ends of the boards. We smear the ends of the boards with easily washable paint around the holes (you can scrub it with a felt-tip pen), slightly push the backs (an assistant is needed here), put the tsars in place, and tightly squeeze the backs; squareness here is not necessary to check. Where reciprocal holes are needed is now immediately visible. If it does not print well, you can wash it off and repeat, but for all holes at once.

Frame

Now we select the holes in the backs and assemble the base so far only on the dowels of the boards / backs, as described above, and with gluing the quarters of the timber. That is, we drive the pins into the ends of the boards with glue, glue the holes in the backs and quarters of the bars with glue, dry them until they are wet and stick the backs on the tsars with a mallet until they fit tightly. After that, the frame needs to be covered, but not with a cloth.

To tighten the frame on its corners and the middle of the sides, we put pieces of packaging cardboard and wrap everything tightly with three turns of rope. The knot should be in the middle of the headboard width. Here again you cannot do without an assistant.

Then we evenly spread the turns along the width of the side boards and in the middle from all four sides we slip off pipe or pieces of wood of equal diameter. It can be in the range of 20-80 mm, depending on how tight the rope is, but it is the same for everyone. Immediately, until the glue begins to gelatinize, we check the rectangularity along the diagonals, level it while the frame walks across, and dry it without touching it for 2-4 days.

Advice: if you haven't covered anything like that before, practice on a dry frame, pick up the round ones, and only then do not assemble with glue.

The meaning of this operation is illustrated by the diagram in Fig, known from the school physics course. A small amount of transverse parallelogram tension gives a lot of traction along the rope, and the frame will sit to its limit, which is needed for strength and rigidity after final assembly.

Information note: this method of creating a large effort is well known in the army practice for pulling out stuck equipment. The machine's winch cable is looped around a tree, overwhelmed by a hook. Then the winch is turned on for winding, and the fighter all the time pulls the cable sideways by the middle. In 10-15 minutes, one little sled pulls out a ZIL-131 with a canopy with a total weight of 12 tons from a swamp or quicksand. And without a pull on the side, the winch stops as soon as the cable goes back.

After drying in the corners of the bar frame, we drill holes for the local pins and put them, also on glue. Then we try on the spar in place; adjust if necessary. We grease his mustache and mating cutouts in the beams with glue, put it in place and fasten it with steel corners, as shown in the figure. For each wing of the corner you need 3 self-tapping screws.

We perform all these operations without removing the covering. We remove it 2-3 days after installing the spar. Then we reinforce the spar with steel corners according to the diagram in Fig. Now the base is ready, and very little is left.

Lounger

What the deck chair is made of has already been said. The flooring is attached to the frame with glue and nails. It is imperative to glue: the flooring not only holds the mattress, but also plays an important role in the overall mechanics of the structure.

For boarding, 20x (80-100) planks are sufficient. You can take a thicker one, it will not be weaker, only heavier. But you need to decide on the thickness of the flooring right away in order to correctly calculate the location of the frame beam.

Each board needs 8 nails: 2 at the edges and 2 at each intersection with the side member flanges. If the flooring is plywood, then the nails are driven into the corners (fell on the dowel - it's okay) and into the mustache of the side member shelves. Then we "nail" along the perimeter and along the axes of the flanges of the spar with a step of 80-120 mm.

We wait another day or two, put the mattress, lay it - the bed is ready! Can be updated in any imaginable way.

With drawers

A diagram of a bed frame with drawers is shown in the figure. Since there are no sidebars and their boards providing rigidity here, strength and stability are provided by additional beams with a height from the floor to the plane of the mattress, i.e. to the top of the frame bars. Beams work only for compression, so the cheapest material is suitable for them: chipboard 20 mm, etc.

Corresponding cuts are made in the beams at the intersections with the shelves and beams. The shelves and beams remain solid, otherwise the structure will weaken. The beams are inserted into place by turning the frame over. Align in the boxes, drip into the joints with a couple of drops of PVA and dry for an hour and a half. Then they turn it over (glue is needed only so that the beams do not fall out), check it again "for a box" and fasten it with corners according to the scheme.

After that, box fittings are installed: sleds, rollers. Install the flooring - the bed is ready.

Notes:

1. The dimensions of the described beds can be increased up to 2.4 x 2 m without any structural changes. Lovers of "strawberry" call such beds Swedish. Perhaps associating with the "Swedish troika".
2. The spar for a single bed of this type can be made from a single 40 x 100 mm plank.

Generally speaking, a podium bed is any bed without a bedside space, with or without drawers. But fashion is fashion; it is generally accepted that a podium bed is a bed with a rigid decorative frame around the lodgment, with or without drawers, as in Fig. There is no big sense here, only the living space is taken away. But - fashion is fashion. In the end, you can store something in the frame and arrange the boxes.

Drawings of the podium bed are shown in the figure. The dimensions are given by the author of the design in centimeters. The strength and performance are satisfactory. But wooden planks they will no longer go to it, you need laminate, MDF or plywood. And the accuracy of sawing workpieces needs high, plus or minus 0.5 mm. The assembly specification is listed under the picture.

• A - side panel 1910x330 mm.
• B, C - headboard panels, 2 pcs. 1650x330 mm.
• D - plank 1932x150 mm.
• E - the same, 1710x150 mm.
• F - top panels of drawers, 2 pcs. 953x320 mm.
• G - cross member 1910x100 mm.
• H - backrest sidewalls, 2 pcs. 330x100 mm.
• I - far walls of the boxes, 2 pcs. 778x240 mm.
• J - drawer sides, 4 pcs. 760x240 mm.
• K - internal panels, 2 pcs. 1910x330 mm.
• L - backrest, 1606x330 mm.
• M - central panels, 2 pcs. 1479x272 mm.
• N - cross members of the central block, 2 pcs. 272x42 mm.
• O - podium dividers, 8 pcs. 330x81 mm.
• P - drawer bottoms, 788x748 mm.

Parts A - H are made from 22 mm board; I - J from a 16 mm board; K - O from 19 mm chipboard and P from 10 mm plywood. In addition, you will need a beam of 27x27 mm for the transverse and 27x47 mm for the longitudinal supports of the mattress; sunbed flooring is not provided. In general, it's rather complicated though.

Bunk

There are many types of bunk beds on sale, and no wonder: the product is in great demand, given the shortage of living space and the desire of many to have a second child, warmed by benefits. The bunk bed shown in the figure on the right differs from others in that it can be made independently with a minimum of cost and skill.

Note: think about homemade mattresses! More precisely - forget. Experiments with an unformed skeleton are fraught with defects in the child's musculoskeletal system!

The highlight of this bed is in the design of the corner posts, the weakest point of all bunk beds... In this case (see the figure on the right), each of the two boards is made without a tie-in and external fasteners. The rigidity and support of the timber frames is provided by segments of the usual floor plinth on glue and screws; the joint of the boards is also glued. The bottom of the upper frame, so that the corners and heads of the self-tapping screws do not irritate the eyes, is sewn up with a thin fiberboard with a decorative coating on glue and small carnations.

The width of the bed in the figure is the minimum allowed; it can be increased up to 710 mm. It is impossible to make it even wider, the assembly principle does not allow obtaining the required strength. The length is the maximum permissible, based on the growth. Small ones, unlike adults, do not worry at all if they have to sleep in a rookery that is too large for them.

Attic

Another popular bed and sleeping product is the loft bed. Usually it is arranged in a niche, see fig. Purchased ones are a rather complex (and expensive) structure with metal strength elements. But the pallet under the mattress, which is in no way inferior to them in strength, can be made by yourself from the same bar-fifty and 20 mm plywood, see fig. on right. Pay attention to the order of inserting the beams at the ends, it must be observed.

Plywood sheathing at the top and bottom needs one piece. Since the dimensions of the standard plywood sheet are in no way sufficient for sleeping, each shield is assembled from two parts on nails and glue using gusset strips from the same plywood 60-80 mm wide and the length of the inner frame cell size. The kerchiefs will go inside; the shields are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws with gluing, as described at the beginning, in increments of 60-80 mm.

When installed in a niche, the pallet is mounted on a rectangular frame made of a steel corner 80-100 mm. It is highly desirable to make a ladder made of steel and use it as an additional support: welded to the frame and with "dimes" on the floor. Suspension for an angle or two must be made supporting: a bracket, as in the figure, forgings from a triangular corner in the corners, 12-16 mm through bolts with washers 60-80 mm in diameter under the heads.

Ceiling mountings - made of steel pipe not less than 30 mm with flanges welded at the top. Fastening each rack to the ceiling - at least 3 points, evenly distributed around the circumference or perimeter of the flange, with 10-12 mm bolts in steel anchor collets. In this case, if one bolt looses, the others will go awry and still hold, and the slanting gap will immediately let you know that repairs are needed. When fastening to one point or several in a line, a sudden collapse is not excluded.

Notes:

1. Do not be tempted by hooks for chandeliers, even if they hold tons according to TU. The chandelier does not climb to its place every evening and does not descend from there in the morning. And she does not toss and turn and does not rush in her sleep.
2. And most importantly, before you tackle your loft bed, make sure the walls and ceiling will support it!

Folding

A folding bed is already relevant for adults living in cramped conditions. There are folding mechanisms on sale (see fig), allowing you to do this yourself. The legs (at the bottom on the left position of the figure and on the right on the central one) are reclined by their own weight. A mattress, of course, is needed with a rigid base.

The support requirements are specified in the specification for the mechanism, but they are low and allow the bed to be installed in rooms with ordinary walls and gender. The principle of operation of the mechanism is such that the force circulates inside it and little is transmitted to the outer surfaces.

When choosing a mechanism, you need to pay attention to the design of dampers, they are gas-lift or spring-loaded. The former work smoothly if the weight of the frame with the mattress is within certain limits. If it turns out to be larger, the frame will come out tightly out of the niche, and immediately slump and clatter, but there is no adjustment. Spring dampers are more expensive, but are adjustable in place to suit the weight of the bed.

There are also ready-made frames with a mattress on sale, see fig. left. It remains only to attach it to the floor, but the price is less than 10,000 rubles. you can't buy a good one.

To install the folding beds described above, a wardrobe is required: the legs spoil the view, but you cannot hide them, they must recline. There are still floating folding beds, see fig. on the right, not spoiling the interior when raised. However, due to the heavy loads on the mechanism, this design is not for the DIYer. Even from a variety of furniture companies, only a few can make decent floating beds.

Now it is fashionable to make furniture on your own at home, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Someone prefers to purchase blanks and assemble the necessary furniture from them, while someone does all the work on their own from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just skill and equipment - personal preference and financial ability play an important role. In this article we will show you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please and be able to use it for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. You must choose suitable model and, taking into account the material used, prepare the tool.

Required tools

Depending on what material is selected, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

• Electric welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• File.
• Metal brush.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

For working with wood

• Jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw for wood.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Building corner.
• Pencil.
• Plane.
• Chisel.
• Grinder.

As for consumables, we will talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Materials for making the bed:

1. Metal corner.
2. Profile or round pipe.
3. Solid wood.
4. Plywood.

The above materials can be used both individually and in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped with wooden backs, and a plywood product is assembled on a timber frame. There can be many options, and you can figure it out in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing the bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual patterns of placing the bed and find a new place for it. If so, check out a number of tips to help you do this.

• Do not install the bed with the headboard to the window opening, as there will be a draft when the window is open, and the head can be blown out.
• If you place the bed with the headboard to the doorway, then you will not be able to see the one who enters the bedroom.
• Better that there is no chandelier hanging over the bed. She can break off and fall on a person lying in bed.
• In non-insulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to put the bed in such places.
• A shelf that is not securely nailed to the wall above your head can cause a lot of trouble too.
• In a narrow bedroom, the bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement can cause discomfort.
• Many people leave room for a laptop at the headboard. Note that this "thief of time" will deprive you in this case of many hours of good rest.

You might get the impression that there is absolutely no room for a bed in the bedroom, but this is not the case. We only gave recommendations, and you yourself decide how relevant they are in your case.

Wood bed

Don't be fooled by the seeming simplicity of the design. You need to tune in to the fact that you will have to work a lot to make a bed from solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original, while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to immediately decide on the design of the bed, so first, look at a few photos of wood products.

Photo of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take the drawing of the bed and alter it for themselves, deleting or adding something.

From an array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed, you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If it has not yet been purchased, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out on selling sites standard sizes and start from this data. If you are planning to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made according to individual order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively short article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we do not strive for this. Based on the example given, it will be possible to understand how to assemble a bed from an array.

Let's consider an example of making a wooden bed for a 200 × 160 cm mattress, if there are a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and in a smaller direction. Having purchased a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the size of the bed to be made to it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, remaking it to fit your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let's say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress, it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than the declared ones - 199 × 159 cm. You will need the following material:

• Beam 50 × 40 mm, length 209 cm - 19 pcs.
• Planed board 22 × 100 mm, 159.5 cm long - 18 pcs.
• PVA glue (furniture).
• Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of ​​the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store for it.

Making a frame

The frame can be assembled on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200 × 160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm of tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three beams assembled into a single structure.

• Of 19 pcs. of the purchased timber 40 × 50 mm, you need to choose 4 pcs. smoothest and with the least amount of knots.
• For further work, you need to cut off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the timber, and then, using the building corner, draw the cut line. If you cannot cut straight with a hacksaw along the line, then it is better to use a miter box.
• You should get 2 bars of 160 cm and 2 bars of 208 cm (internal size of the bed length 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm).
• The cleanest side of the bars will be used as the front side (the top of the bed), so we will lay the bars down with this side.
• You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut off 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (the inner size of the bed width is 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm).
• In order for the frame to be strong, the corner joints must be overlapped, therefore, for the second row, bars of a different size are used, which we sawed out last.
• Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and attracted with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will then interfere with the work on sanding the surface.
• Now the bars of the third row are attached in the same way.

• Check that the corners of the bed are collected at a 90˚ angle. To do this, we will measure the dimensions of the assembled frame along the diagonals - they must be the same.
• After the glue has dried, you can continue working.
• Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can bend. To eliminate this, in the center of the bed, from one back to the other, from below, you need to make a stiffener. To make it, you will need 2 bars 2 m long each. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This can be clearly seen in the photo.

The bed being manufactured has 4 legs located in the corners, but for safety reasons, you can set the fifth fulcrum in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

• The legs will be made of two 40 × 50 mm bars, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the preference of the owner in such a way that they will be attached to the lower two bars.
• After gluing and securing the legs with self-tapping screws, wait until the glue dries, and only then turn the bed over to the position in which it will now be constantly located.

• To make the base for the mattress along the sides of the bed frame, you need to fix the remaining beam of 50 × 40 mm (or existing scraps), since the boards will be attached to it. The bottom edge of the upper beam of the frame will serve as a reference point.
• The width of the inner part of our product is 160 cm, so in order to avoid the creak of the board, you can make 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or slightly less).

• Having sanded the boards, you need to lay them on the frame in such a way that they do not touch the sides of the walls of the frame, and fix them.
• Since the self-tapping screws will be screwed in from the edge of the board, it will be necessary to drill holes in each board under them, using a thin drill for this.
• As for the distance between the boards, we find it empirically. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We will retreat from the edges by 5 mm. There are 199 cm left. Divide by 16 (the number of boards). 199/16 = 12.44 cm

• If you need to get a greater distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and re-perform the calculations according to our scheme.
• Now you need to sand the entire structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed out of the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
• It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a nozzle on which an emery cloth is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process by hand using a fine-grained emery cloth.

• The bed must be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The job is best done with a spray gun. As a last resort, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that the appearance of the applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You may have noticed that we have 3 more boards left. We will make a back from them, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm, and the width is 170 cm, but this is not important, since it will not be one with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the level with the mattress.

Its manufacture is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off at 170 cm each.Of the scraps we make 11 boards of 45 cm each.If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then two boards of 40‒42 cm can be screwed through one board.Like the beds, the back must be given a presentable look by varnishing it.

The back can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock on the wall. More practical is to fix the backrest firmly to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step by step instructions

Manufacturing structures from chipboard can seem very difficult due to the nature of this material. If you cut, grind and glue the edge at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with we will open the chipboard, as the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided by making a drawing in advance and ordering the production of parts in furniture shop... At home, all that remains is to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remains of the stove, you can make shelves for books or something else that is needed in the household.

So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To get the job done, you need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
• jigsaw;
• confirmation drill;
• bit extender;
• bits (cross and hex);
• mallet;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• awl;
• roulette.

You will also need consumables:

• Confirmates - 50 pcs.
• Stickers or plugs for confirmations - 50 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.8 × 45 mm - 15 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm - 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm - 40 pcs.
• Furniture corner - 12 pcs.
• Linear roller - 8 pcs.
• Wide furniture handles - 2 pcs.
• Plastic legs - 12 pcs.
• Bar 20 × 45 mm (3 m) - 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since the mattress will be 200 × 70 cm, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten slats on one side, you need to fix the corners.

First, we will make boxes that can be pushed under the bed. The first step is to assemble the frame. To do this, we will lay out the blanks so that the part pasted over with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to mix up the sides. Well, if the edge is not glued to the end of the inner part, then you will not mix it up. If the edges of the parts are pasted over in a circle (which is wrong), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. After making sure everything matches, you can start assembling.

Having departed from the lower (or upper) edge of about 3 cm, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, as one awkward movement - the part will be damaged. The thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, drill a hole with a little core and without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on unused leftovers of the sheet.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to fasten the bottom, eight confirmations are enough - 2 on each side. These boxes are not designed to hold very heavy items, because the plastic rollers are not designed for this.

It remains to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second is being assembled in the same sequence.

Putting the finished boxes aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since boxes will be installed on one side, you need to assemble 3 parts together, using 3 confirmations on each side.

As a result, we will have such a "bench".

Now let's collect decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmations will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with the pull-out of the drawers, and we connect them together from the inside with self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm.

You need to nail down the plastic legs.

Let's start making ribbing. On the front of the frame, draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we fix the bars with the corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is set along the line.

Instead of ribbing from boards, you can use a cut-to-size chipboard slab.

After that, it will remain with 30 mm self-tapping screws to screw the bars to the opposite sidewall.

Once you roll up the drawers and put the mattress down, you can start using the bed.

As you can see, with the right approach, it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from chipboard at home. The design can be of any size, as in the following video.

Video: we make a double bed podium from chipboard

Pallet bed

Nowadays, beds made from pallets are in vogue. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some provincial dacha, but this is not the case, because pallet beds can also be found in houses with a fairly rich environment.

Let's move on from words to deeds. Consider one of the options for assembling a bed from pallets. How many will you need? It all depends on the size and design of the manufactured product. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4 pallets. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If there is such an opportunity, then you need to choose as much as possible whole pallets. They need to be sanded.

All pallets should be painted using non-toxic wood paint. Since wood is very hygroscopic, most likely, the pallets will need to be opened with paint 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, it is necessary to fasten them together. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled under the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together with metal plates, fixed with wood screws.

Thanks to this simple technology, you can make a pretty decent bed from pallets.

The backrest can also be made of pallets.

From the remnants of pallets, you can collect some furniture and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

Plywood

You won't surprise anyone with a plywood product, but you can make furniture out of it at home. We will use sheets of the FSF brand, since not all plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Consider an example of making a bed for a box-spring mattress 1900 × 900 × 200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. Of 18 mm plywood, the bed will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use 15 mm sheets - they are much stronger than standard chipboard.

• Plywood 2.44 × 1.22 m - 1 sheet.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 2 pcs. 1.9 m each.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 7 pcs. 0.9 m each.
• If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then buy a PVC edge. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p / m.
• Moment glue - 1 tube.
• Screws 5 × 40 mm - 26 pcs.
• Screws 5 × 60 mm - 12 pcs.
• Screws 3 × 9 mm - 8 pcs.
• Foot pads - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Instead of screws, you can use wood screws.

The side wall of the back of the bed is large in height. This is done so that the drawers being pushed under the bed do not hit the walls. If there are no boxes, then the side walls can be made the same.

Making a bed

From the existing sheet of plywood, you need to cut out the parts corresponding to the drawing.

If desired, you can use film faced plywood. In this case, it is important to take into account that it is very difficult to cut such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating. In addition, then the edges will necessarily need to be pasted over with furniture edge.

To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and take the jigsaw slowly - this way we will get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should get parts of the following dimensions:

1. Front back - 932 × 650 mm.
2. Backrest - 932 × 500 mm.
3. Front side panel - 1900 × 200 mm.
4. Rear side panel - 1900 × 350 mm (if without cabinets, then we also make 1900 × 200 mm).

• The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this, you can use a small wooden block wrapped in emery cloth medium grain size.
• After that, we assemble the bed frame.

Base for the bed

• The backrests are attached to the side plates with 5 × 40 mm screws (2 for each front side, and 3 for the back).
• Then we fasten the timber to the side rails of the bed using screws 5 × 40 mm (7 pcs. Per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If you drive deeper, then the screw will go through the plywood.
• We fix the crossbeams from the timber on the horizontal beams with self-tapping screws 5 × 60 mm (1 for each point).
• Using screws 5 × 40 mm, screw the bars to the backs from the inside (3 screws for each).
• At the last stage, we screw the thrust bearings from the bottom to the backs - 2 screws 3 × 9 mm each.
• We set up the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If you use a soft mattress instead of a spring mattress on the frame, then you need to cut the bottom out of plywood and screw it to the bars from above.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a bed from plywood.

Made of metal

If you have some skills as a welder, you can make a metal bed. Option bolted connection we will not even consider it, since such a product looses very quickly.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that it looks very presentable.

For its manufacture, the following materials were needed:

• Profile pipe 50 × 25 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 40 × 40 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 20 × 20 mm (or 15 × 15) - 40 m.

In addition to pipes, a metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bender is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes, and not use those that have been in the garage for several years, then do not opt ​​for rusty ones, since then they will need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame making

Since the bed is collapsible, you can make parts of it in parts. Let's start with the backs.

• The base will be pipes 40 × 40 mm. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m.If the ceilings are low, then they can be reduced to 185 cm.
• The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we cut off 8 identical pieces of 82 cm each (90- (4 + 4) = 82) from the 20 × 20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes of 30 cm each.
• For now, we will use only half of the prepared material.
• On a flat plane parallel to each other you need to lay the rack pipes.
• Having retreated from the bottom 40 cm and from the edge 1 cm, a pipe with a length of 82 cm is grabbed.
• It is necessary to check the correctness of the set angles with the building corner.
• After 95 cm, the second pipe is seized.
• We return to the first one, and on the tacks we assemble the grate - 2 pipes of 30 cm each and a cross-piece of 82 cm.
• We do the same with the second lattice.
• After checking the angles and alignment of the tacked parts, they can be welded thoroughly.
• The second back is made in the same way.

Now let's start making shelves.

• We also cut the profile pipe 50 × 25 mm into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
• The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we need 26 pieces of pipe 20 × 20 mm, 83 cm each (88- (2.5 + 2.5) = 83).
• 2 pipes are placed on the edge parallel to each other.
• We mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
• We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
• After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second is assembled in the same way.
• To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the lattice on the back. The pipe used for the fence should be bent, not welded at an angle. If there is no pipe bender, then you can fill it with sand and bend it in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

• In the same way, 3 more vertical posts are welded, but it will not weld to the back, so you need to weld a small bar from the end.

The time has come to put the structure together, for this we will use welding a little more.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

• From a 20 × 20 mm pipe, you need to cut off 16 pieces of 10 cm each and weld to the backs at the joining point.
• Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the grille tube and clipped to the backrest. If this is not done, then later it will not be possible to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not coincide.
• Having checked the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

• With the help of a grinder, it is necessary to process the welding seams.

Assembly

• Now let's put together the bed.
• In order for the collapsible parts to hold together securely, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

• We attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

• At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
• Once the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and reassembled.
• To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased for this.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, at home you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed.

Making decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then when making a bed instead of standard shaped pipes you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

A person may have the wrong opinion that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, then this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Choice of design

The wrong bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in the field:

1. It is best if the bed is made of natural materials... When using chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.), the products must be certified, intended for the manufacture of furniture.
2. The size of the bed matters a lot. A single bedroom can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double bedroom can be 200, 180 and 160 cm wide. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act according to the principle - the more the better. The length of the bed should be 20 cm longer than the person's height (at least 10 cm).
3. Structures made of chipboard (and chipboard) are the most unreliable and brittle.
4. A solid bed base prevents the mattress from ventilating, but too little ribbing can cause the mattress to deform.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are nuances of choice here.

1. The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not deform too much under the weight of the person lying on it, so it must be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress is right for you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before buying.
2. If you have purchased a hard mattress, then you can put a thick mattress topper on it, for the manufacture of which latex or memoriform is used (with a thickness of 3 to 10 cm). If you have not decided on the choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

Concerning design features beds, it is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room, you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, folding or sliding from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed in the bedroom

One bedroom

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, be it a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example, for two children. Be that as it may, first you need to decide which design is suitable, and then start manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photo of single beds

Double

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and to make it comfortable to sleep on this bed, you need to take care of its size and design. See a photo exhibition of double products.

Photo of double beds

Bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairytale castle in which the child will be happy to fall asleep. Choosing the design of this kind of baby bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a baby bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

A do-it-yourself bed made of wood is created in several cases: if it is not possible to install standard models in order to save money, if you have basic knowledge of carpentry and a desire to make an original piece of furniture. It is necessary to create a drawing of the future product and strictly adhere to the action plan. It is recommended to take a responsible attitude to the choice of materials and accessories.

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Benefits of wood furniture

Single or double beds made of wood not only have high aesthetic qualities, but also fully meet the operational and environmental requirements for sleeping furniture.

A homemade bed has a number of advantages:

1. Durability, exceptional resistance to mechanical damage and a fairly long service life. A well-made bed can serve the owners for up to 50 years. If necessary, repairs are carried out quite easily and quickly.
2. DIY wooden beds, made taking into account all the ergonomic features human body, provide a comfortable and healthy sleep.
3. During operation, wood does not emit in environment harmful substances. On the contrary, resins and essential oils, which are part of this material, have a positive effect on the body, have bactericidal properties.
4. Due to the pliability of wood, furniture items are distinguished by a variety design solutions, textures and shades of the surface.
5. A one-and-a-half or double bed made of wood can fit into any interior, bringing some luxury and presentability into it.

Choose the material and decide on the price

An important aspect is what kind of wood or its derivatives the bed is made of, its cost and service life.

The most budgetary option is to make a bed from plywood with your own hands. Such a product is quite durable, environmentally friendly, with correct finish looks ergonomic and beautiful.

Beds made of boards or furniture board, which are obtained by joining and pressing thinner raw materials, are widespread. Such material is in no way inferior to solid wood, it is easy to process and has an affordable price.

Solid wood beds are made of different material... Hardwoods such as ash, apple, yew, elm, oak, beech, dogwood, mountain ash and sycamore are quite expensive. It is more expedient to use them for the production of frames and load-bearing structures designed for constant and heavy loads.

Beds made of solid pine, willow, alder, aspen, fir, cedar and cherry, belonging to softwoods, are the most common and occupy the middle price segment.

The main share of materials for the manufacture of furniture items is represented by such wood; production is used to create decorative and carved elements, original facades and unusual shapes.

Parts and drawings for manufacturing

Making a wooden bed yourself at home is not difficult. It is necessary to start the manufacturing process by measuring the location and drawing the drawing and diagram.

Overall dimensions are dictated by the ratio of the required width and length sleeping place to the available space in the room. On their basis, they think over the design, the height of the headboard, the presence or absence of legs, it will be a simple model or a bed with boxes for storing linen.

The drawing of the bed should display the dimensions of all components and their connection points, the location of the parts reinforcing the frame, mechanisms for lifting or moving the base, cabinets and other functional elements.

Next to the figure, a dimensional table is compiled and the volume is calculated required material and accessories for their further purchase.

If the confidence in the calculations is great, you can immediately order the sawing and grinding of all the components of the wooden bed right in the store or in the warehouse.

Required tools

To make a bed out of wood with your own hands, you will need:

1. boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm for the frame;
2. timber 4x4 to create an emphasis under the slatted base of the mattress, to strengthen the entire structure in the corners, to make the legs and frame of the headboard;
3. 4x6 timber for a partition along the entire length of the frame, if you plan to make a double bed from solid wood;
4. carved decorative elements to create backrest lintels;
5. slats (lamellas);
6. metal corners of different widths;
7. stain of the desired shade, varnish, impregnation, glue.

Self-manufacturing implies the presence of the following tool:

• hand saw or electric jigsaw;
• sander and sandpaper;
• screwdriver or drill with a cue ball and a set of drills;
• screwdriver, hammer, measuring tool.

If you plan to make a wooden bed with a lifting mechanism, you need to purchase the most suitable one.

Retractable bearing rails will be required to ensure the movement of the built-in drawers. When choosing fittings, you must pay attention to the quality of all parts. It is recommended to trace the absence of plastic components and visible defects.

How to make a bed out of wood with your own hands

Consider how to make a bed with your own hands from wood, using the example of a single bed with a beautiful slatted headboard and separately purchased carved legs.

Assembling the frame

Making wood beds begins with assembling the frame. In this case, the transformation of the base under the mattress and additional boxes are not provided, therefore the whole process is divided into the following stages:

1. Marking and sawing boards into blanks, respectively, of the main width and length of the bed, followed by grinding the cut ends.
2. Preparation of pieces of timber to strengthen the frame in the corners. Their length should be equal to the height of the sides of the bed. For the basis for attaching the slats under the mattress, we take a bar with a length that is equal to the side parts. Manufacturing of side parts of the headboard.
3. The base for the bed is folded so that the side boards are located between the front and rear backrests. They are connected with metal corners or with pieces of timber. The finished rectangle should allow the mattress to fit exactly inside.
4. Then, in the center of the width of the board, a longitudinal bar is installed, on which the crate will be attached in the future. You can pre-make grooves about a centimeter deep for a more durable installation in 10-15 cm increments.

The resulting structure will act as the bed frame and the basis for securing the rest of its components.

Back

Often wooden bed begins to be created from the headboard and foot. In this case, the second component is not provided, and the backrest will be fixed when it is completely ready.

To begin with, the frame of the headrest made of timber is laid on a flat surface, which consists of two side, upper and lower parts. All sections must first be sanded. For jumpers, ready-made carved balusters are used, the number of which must satisfy the owner of the product. They are placed between the bars keeping the same distance.

First, holes are drilled that will pass through the lower beam and continue in the lintels and side parts. Then they are firmly twisted using screws of a slightly larger diameter and corresponding length. The same manipulations are carried out with the upper part and completely twist the headboard.

Lamels

Beech slats are used to create the base for the mattress. They have high strength and are capable of high-quality shock absorption under the weight of the mattress and the person.

Do-it-yourself bed slats are easy to install. The main condition is to ensure a slight upward deflection, due to which all the functions assigned to them will be performed.

Fastening takes place with a hammer and ordinary nails to the side support bars, which are located on both sides of the frame inside.

First, all the components of the base are set in place. If there are grooves for them, this process is greatly simplified. After installation, the fullness of the berth is assessed. If necessary, the step is reduced and only then the parts are securely nailed with 2-3 fasteners on each side.