How to lay tiles correctly - common mistakes and tips for laying. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles - types of materials

The advantages of using tiles as a facing material have been discussed more than once. It is easy to care for ceramics, it is resistant to mechanical stress and is able to function properly for many years. However, ordering a professional tile installation is not cheap pleasure, which is why many carry out assembly work on one's own. The article will discuss how to properly prepare the surface and how to lay tiles on the wall.

How to properly lay tiles on the wall: surface preparation rules

In order to start preparing the wall for laying tiles, it is initially necessary to determine what type of mortar will be used for cladding. There are two options: cement-sand mortar and special adhesives. Depending on which option is preferred, the preparation of the walls for the tiles will differ.

Many people want to make a choice in favor of glue, but in this case, you will have to work hard on leveling the walls under the tiles. Usually, plaster is used for this purpose or the surface is sheathed with drywall. The smoother the surface, the better. If a decision was made to use cement-sand mortar, it will take less effort to align the wall with the tiles. How do you choose the best option? The first method is much simpler and is suitable even for beginners. But the "mortar" technique requires skills and experience.

Speaking about how to prepare the walls for tiles in the bathroom, do not forget about the presence a large number communications that may interfere with installation. The simplest solution to this problem is to hide all the pipes before gluing the bathroom tiles to the wall. The easiest way to do this is with drywall structures.

Important!Before proceeding with the leveling of the walls before laying the tiles, it is necessary to make sure that the old covering is completely dismantled. This also applies to paint. In the presence of residues that can crumble, the life of a new tile can be significantly reduced.

What tools are needed totile laying works

Before proceeding with the surface preparation and laying of the facing material, you must make sure that you have all the necessary tools for this:

  • trowel and spatulas (regular, notched and rubber);
  • building level;
  • and wire cutters;
  • a grinder and a diamond wheel for her;
  • special crosses for laying tiles;
  • foam sponge.

Additionally, you will need a tape measure, a hammer and other tools, which are probably in every home. In addition, it is worth thinking in advance about how the glue solution will be kneaded. It is advisable to have a special drill bit for this purpose, but this can also be done manually.

How to properly lay tiles on the wall

The first rule that you need to know before laying tiles on the wall is that all places that are important for visual perception should be lined with solid elements. Tiles that had to be trimmed should be hidden behind pieces of furniture or in places where they will be least noticeable.

Payment the required amount materials is carried out even before the start of work and in particular, leveling the base. This is done because it provides the opportunity to make some changes, for example, applying a slightly larger layer of plaster. In this case, the result will be some loss of area, but this is not so problematic than if you have to look at an imperfectly laid surface for many years.

Helpful advice! If all corners of the room equally fall into the field of view, then the best option will do the same clipping of all corner pieces.

As for vertical clipping, the rule of the whole tile at the top applies here. Although it is important to pay attention to individual data. It is perfectly acceptable to break the rules if objectively it will have a positive effect on the situation. It is also worth paying attention to the size of the tile joints. On the surface of a small area, in total, they take up quite a lot of space.

The marking technique largely depends on which method of laying the tiles was chosen. The most popular are the following types: "seam in seam", staggered and diagonally. The first method is the most popular. Its main difficulty is that in no case should the vertical and horizontal boundaries be violated, as this will be very noticeable. The most difficult method proposed is the third one. It requires a certain skill and experience. But the second is universal. He imitates brickwork and is quite easy to mount.

How to install tiles on the wall: general rules

Usually, you need to lay tiles on the wall starting from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that wall tiles must cover the floor tiles for a number of reasons:

  • visually, such a solution looks better;

  • water that will flow down the surface of the wall will not flow into the contour seams;
  • it is much easier to trim wall ceramics.

Often you have to deal with situations where the floor covering was laid in advance. In this case, you need to start laying the wall tiles from the bottom row. But here another difficulty arises - it is far from always possible to do without pruning and place a solid tile in the top row.

The first thing to do is to decide on the lighthouse row and mark the top edge of the first row. It is important to use a level in the process of work so that in the future all the tiles do not "float".

Important!At the marking stage, it is very important to pay attention to all the difficult points, such as laying tiles around pipes. Some offset of the marks is allowed if this avoids the need to make complex cuts.

After that, you need to pull the lighthouse cord or draw a solid line along the marks. It is better to use the first option, as this will make it possible to more accurately control the horizontal. To comply with the verticals, ordinary plumb lines are used.

Putting the tiles right: step by step instructions for work

It is important to understand that the installation procedure can differ significantly depending on what surface and with what composition the installation will be carried out. Therefore, if you know how to glue tiles to the floor, this does not at all guarantee that you will cope with wall tiles without problems. Let's consider what the laying procedure looks like in the case of using ordinary white tile adhesive for work, and what is the order of work in this case:

  • initially it is necessary to dilute the adhesive composition according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is best to use a construction mixer for this, as this allows you to quickly cope with the task;
  • using a spatula, apply a thin layer on the base and on the back of the tile. The surplus is removed with a comb in such a way that even grooves remain on the back of the tile;

  • making sure that the layer of adhesive on the tile is evenly distributed, it must be gently pressed to the surface.

Important! The choice of a notched trowel should be based on the size of the tile. The larger the dimensions of the tile, the larger the teeth on the instrument should be.

The first tile must be laid along the horizontal and vertical marks. Moreover, if in the process of work a cord was used as a guide, it is better to start from the corner of the second row and only then remove the cord. Fixation is carried out using special wedges that are inserted between the tile and the support strip.

First you need to lay out all the solid elements, keeping an equal distance between them. It is to facilitate this task that small crosses are used, which serve as a guide for creating uniform tile seams. Each row laid must necessarily be defeated by a thorough check with the help of a building level.

Helpful advice! If there is a pattern on the tile that is not so clear that it is visually easy to identify the upper and lower parts, then you should pay attention to the special arrows that the manufacturer places on the back of each element. With their help, you can navigate during the installation process.

As for the laying of tiles that require trimming, then this task is best left for later. How exactly should be carried out this procedure will be discussed later in the article.

How to lay tiles on drywall

For a while, there was disagreement as to whether plasterboard structures could be used as a basis for laying tiles. Indeed, the material itself is not highly durable and the large weight of ceramic tiles may be simply overwhelming.

Practice has shown that, subject to certain rules, drywall may well be a full-fledged basis for laying tiles:

  • you should not save on the adhesive composition, it must be of high quality and suitable for this type of work;
  • before starting installation, the surface must be thoroughly primed and completely dried;
  • laying should be done gradually - no more than 5 rows at a time. After that, you need to take at least an hour break, after which work can be continued.

Related article:


Advantages and disadvantages of the material, design of products from catalogs and photos of finishing in the interior of the room, prices for products.

Compliance with these simple rules will make the tile covering more durable and reliable, and also reduce the risk that after a short period of time some tiles will fall off.

How to lay tiles on the wall: tile cutting technology

Trying to understand in detail the question of how to glue the tiles on the wall in the bath, many believe that the main difficulty that will have to be faced is the fitting of the elements. This can indeed be a daunting task, but with the right approach, even a beginner can do it.

It is often possible to cope with cutting tiles using a conventional tile cutter. A grinder is often required for floor covering than for wall-mounted, due to the difference in material thickness. But sometimes, for especially difficult places, you still have to use this tool in the process of laying tiles on the wall.

Helpful advice! In the absence of a glass cutter, you can get by even less, using, for example, a tile cutter or a scraper with a victorious solder. In order to cut off the desired part, it is necessary to draw a cutting line, and then several times draw over the fixed element with the available tool as many times as necessary.

In order to achieve curly trimming, which is necessary for laying tiles around pipes, it is better to use a grinder with a diamond wheel. But if it is not available, and there are not too many holes to be made, then it is quite possible to use a cheap alternative - a diamond-coated canvas. True, in this case, much more time will be spent.

How to grout tiles on a wall

After all the tiles are laid, the gaps between the elements must be wiped with a special compound, which is called "". This mixture is designed to fill the voids between tiles and provide reliable protection from moisture penetration under the coating. In order for this procedure to be as effective as possible, you must adhere to the following rules:

  • it is necessary to knead the grout in stages, usually this is done at the rate of 1-4 m² per approach. This will prevent the mixture from drying out before being used;
  • all excess must be removed with a foam sponge until the solution is completely dry;
  • using the same sponge, the seams can be made smoother by evenly distributing the grout inside the seam;
  • in the process of work, the spatula must be held at an angle of 15-30 degrees in order to ensure the most dense filling of the space with the mixture.

It is not difficult to figure out how to grout tiles. If you have additional questions, you can always watch the video instruction or use it as a guide step by step photos that demonstrate this process in as much detail as possible.

Another issue worthy of attention is the price of grouting tiles. It should be noted here that you can find two options on sale - a ready-made mixture and a dry powder, which you will need to dilute with water to the desired consistency yourself. Their cost will be different, for example, 2 kg of the finished mixture will cost about 259 rubles, and 2 kg of dry powder - 175 rubles.

What you need to pay attention to beforehow to glue tiles on the wall

Immediately before laying tiles on the wall with your own hands, you need to once again pay attention to several important aspects:

  • all tiles must be carefully inspected for damage, scratches and chips. It is also helpful to sort the items by size. This will allow you to get the most even seams;
  • in order for the laying of tiles on the wall with your own hands to turn out to be of no less quality than if it were done by a professional, you do not need to spare the primer and time for leveling and preparing the surface;

  • if you have to deal with the facing of the outer corners, you should use the plastic corners.

Often on specialized forums, users discuss interesting questions, for example, is it possible to put tiles on tiles or on another old coating without dismantling it. The answer to all such questions is unambiguous - you should not do this, and before you start laying new tiles, you need to remove the old tiles from the bathroom walls. How exactly to do this - we will consider further.

How to remove tiles from a bathroom wall: rules and guidelines

How easy it will be to remove the old tile from the wall surface depends largely on the surface on which it was laid. For example, if the surface has been previously plastered, the tiles are relatively easy to remove along with the plaster. But if it is attached directly to a concrete or brick base, then the task will become somewhat more complicated.

It is very difficult to work with drywall, since by itself it does not have sufficient strength and in the process of removing the tile will receive so much damage that it will have to be replaced.

You need to start dismantling the coating with soaking. To do this, you can use a shower or a spray bottle. After the surface is moistened, you need to walk the grinder's disc along the tile joints. The better the grout removal is carried out, the easier it will be to carry out all subsequent work. Water is again poured into the resulting grooves to soften the glue a little, as a result of which some of the tiles themselves will begin to lag behind.

The top layer of the tile is tapped with a mallet. In those places where a thud is heard, it is worth starting the process. Using a chisel or chisel and hammer, the first tile is gently chipped off. After that, water is added again and the dismantling of the following elements continues in turn.

Helpful advice! If there is a need to carefully remove one tile in a row, then this will require a drill with drills. In the direction from the center to the edges, a lot of holes are drilled (about 10-20) and then the tile is neatly chipped off.

Most quick way to cope with the task at hand - to use a puncher. However, in this case, it is not necessary to count on the fact that at least some part of the old tile will be preserved. And the sound will probably be loud, so it is better to warn neighbors in advance about the upcoming repairs.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom on the walls, as well as having learned about all the options for dismantling the old coating, you can safely proceed to self-repair... As for the choice suitable material, the most important thing is that you like the characteristics, color and size of ceramic wall tiles, and harmoniously fit into the interior, correspond to the operating conditions.

They always try to stretch out issues with repairs for as long as possible. This can be due to many factors, such as lack of time or finances. But the time comes, and this process is nevertheless taken up.

The biggest impact on the interior is in the kitchen and in the bathroom. There are temperature extremes, high humidity, and mechanical stress. Most often, floor tiles suffer from this, it becomes necessary to replace it. How to lay the tiles on the floor correctly?

The most elementary solution to this issue is to call professionals. But the cost of facing materials is far from low, and this is not to mention how much tile laying services can cost. Therefore, in order to save money, you can do the work yourself. The main thing is to correctly observe the sequence of stages and the quality of the work performed on them.

Surface preparation

For this stage, you need to prepare:

  • chisel;
  • hammer;
  • building level.

First of all, the space is cleaned, that is, all plumbing is dismantled. Next, using a hammer and chisel, the old tile is removed. Since such a coating breaks easily, sharp fragments are formed at the time of breakage. In order not to get hurt, you need to think about your protection in the form of gloves on your hands and goggles on your eyes. After the old coating has been removed, the remnants of the old glue are removed using the same chisel.

In order for the floor tiles to hold firmly and not to crack the first time you press them, the floor surface must be perfectly flat.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the plaster and its quality. It happens that the sand-cement coating swells, and also crumbles from a long service life. Then, before calculating the space and material, the poor-quality plaster coating is cleaned.

With the help of a building level, the horizontalness of the surface is checked. Bulges and concavities can make slab seams look messy. In addition, large gaps are formed between the floor and the walls. In case of such deficiencies, they can be eliminated with plaster.

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Leveling the floor

If you have a concrete floor, you can use a special mortar or cement-sand mortar. The use of the second option involves a process similar to conventional plastering.

But if you stop your choice on a building mixture, then you need to know the technology of the work. It will not be difficult to prepare such a solution, since the manufacturer prints instructions on the correct mixing on each label. There, according to the standard, the thickness of the layer is indicated, which can be laid on the floor in the bathroom, and how long it will take for it to dry. If concrete surface has pores, cracks, joints and gaps, then you need to think about waterproofing. In order for the mixture and the base to adhere well to each other, a primer is used, with which the floor surface is initially treated.

The next step is to draw the level around the entire perimeter of the room. This can be done using a water level building. Its design is a thin hose with graduated flasks attached to it. The measuring principle is based on communicating vessels, that is, the flasks are filled with water and positioned around the perimeter. To carry out high-quality measurements, it is better to perform them together with a partner, one of whom will be engaged in marking on the wall, and the second will align with the markings of the flask. Further, the obtained points are connected by a ruler into one solid line.

The resulting horizontal lines serve as the basis for the installation of pendulum rails. After that, the surface is filled with the resulting solution.

The surface can be smoothed with a wide trowel.

If air bubbles start to form, they can be removed with a needle roller. The direction to be observed when leveling the floor is from the far wall to the door.

But in old houses, a tree was often placed on the floor. The complexity of such a coating lies in the fact that the wood does not have a rigid structure, which means that it will be difficult to lay tiles on the floor. If floor tiles are placed on old and rotten boards, they will crack very quickly.

Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of replacing old boards with new ones, the thickness of which should be at least 2.5 cm. You should not forget about protection against fungus, mold and decay. For this, it is necessary to carry out an autopsy with special solutions. Again, you need a layer of waterproofing under the tiles on the bathroom floor.

The leveling of wooden floors is carried out using the same building mixture. But before pouring the surface, a construction mesh is attached with nails or pieces of brick at a distance of 5 mm. Only then is it covered with the selected mixture on top. The average drying time for such a floor is 28-30 days, then further work can be carried out.

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Purchase of materials

Floor tiles can be purchased in advance, or after the base has been prepared. Of course, it is better to stick to the second option, since at the end of the work, the area in the bathroom may change. And it's good if it decreases.

To make the bathroom look decent, it is best to buy first grade floor tiles. The second and third grades often have defects in the form of color differences and sizes. When laying tiles in the bathroom, it can turn out that it will crack or break, so you should always take with a margin.

For decoration, it is important to purchase borders, skirting boards, patterned coatings, etc. When purchasing tiles for the bathroom, you must immediately purchase glue. It is better if it is a special dry mixture that perfectly withstands temperature extremes and high humidity. We recommend that you pay attention to the instructions on the label regarding the permissible thickness of the plaster.

There is no need to turn to the services of expensive craftsmen for laying tiles. With the right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Considering average tile prices, the savings can be substantial. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules in the event that it is planned to lay tiles with your own hands, in order for the result to be the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

  1. surface preparation (screed formation, wall plastering);
  2. marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
  3. laying the first row or several multidirectional rows along the markings;
  4. filling the entire area with solid tiles;
  5. cutting and laying tiles to fill in the remaining areas;
  6. grouting (jointing).

Tiling tools

The tool required for surface preparation is selected depending on the required operations and work execution technologies. Directly for laying you will need the following:

  • trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber hammer, mortar container. In places where the whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or nippers, a large file or sandpaper, a grinder.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to correctly estimate the required number of tiles, one should not only measure the squaring of the surface for cladding, but also estimate the number of tiles to be cut into pieces. It all depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of all kinds of obstacles in the form of pipes, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately follows on top of the calculated amount square meters take more tiles sufficient for laying two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for the cladding of the bathroom and kitchen, where it is required to use moisture-resistant compounds. Moreover, with proper preparation surface, the consumption of mortar is minimal, and the cost of laying is significantly reduced.

Read more about the calculation of materials for tiling.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly flat and durable, it is necessary to prepare the surface with high quality. In no case should you rely on the fact that small irregularities on the floor or wall can be closed by using more mortar under the tiles. A high-quality result can only be achieved when all the material is placed on an evenly small layer of adhesive.

A screed must be formed before laying the tiles on the floor. In the bathroom and toilet, a waterproofing layer is necessarily formed. The screed can be carried out either by wet method, following the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay the tiles on concrete base, that is, on a wet screed. If the old coating is replaced, then it is, and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.

To veneer tiles walls, it is necessary to get rid of all the old coating and plaster the walls with the obligatory reinforcement with construction mesh. This is the best way to do it. It is not worth using putty, as well as achieving perfect smooth surface, this may impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All skirting boards are dismantled, platbands on doorway and sills. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

If you are sure of the reliability of the layer of old tiles or just want to save time - check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Layout and installation of supports

options for non-standard laying of flooring

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the markings and stops for the first row, along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

At the very bottom, a plastic corner or a wooden rail is fixed, on which the first row will rest. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the laying. In the case of using multi-colored tiles or different types It is best to mark mosaic installations with marks of the places of installation of tiles other than the mass.

Floor

A line is drawn for the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row. The location of the tiles is marked, which will differ from the main mass during the formation of the picture. Laying the floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, the location of the first tile should be shifted so that a whole piece is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account the size of not only the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling patterns

Having prepared the markings and landmarks, you can start laying. For this, a solution of tile adhesive is applied to the wall using a notched trowel to the depth of the notches. The tile is first leaned against the support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully put the tile on the mortar with your own hands. It is not necessary to press down on it. By slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements, maximum adhesion of the product with the solution is achieved.

Remember that it will be problematic to take the tiles off the surface after laying them on the mortar, so you should immediately position them as correctly as possible. You can only move it slightly to the sides. Check the correctness of the installation using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile a little, use a rubber mallet. There are crosses in the corners to keep the gaps. After that, you can proceed with further styling.

Do not press down on the tile so that the solution protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tiles and will give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When the hand is already full, the solution can be applied taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after distributing the solution, the tiles are set in place and sit on the solution with small circular movements. After that, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and with the help of the level, the entire laid row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the filling of the first row, it is best to wait for the glue underneath to set normally. After that, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break from work, then the entire solution that is not under the tiles, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done, and it dries up, then the frozen solution will have to be chipped off before continuing the work, which will affect the strength of the connection of the already laid tiles. Also, all excess mortar is removed in the places that are left for laying the cut tiles.

Step 4. Filling the remaining areas

Having laid out all the space where solid tiles are used, you can start cutting the missing pieces and installing them. you can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter, in extreme cases, a grinder is also suitable. V last option there will be a lot of dust, so pruning is best done outdoors. The tiles are marked taking into account the gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter or an electric machine with a diamond wheel is used. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grouting (jointing)

After completely laying the tiles on the wall or floor, wait until the adhesive solution dries. After that, all the crosses between the tiles are removed, and the joints are planed. For this, you can use cement-based, silicone or epoxy grouts. It is primarily worth choosing a suitable grout according to the color scheme of the chosen coating itself. According to their characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cement grout is spread dry and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grouts are sold ready-to-use in sealed containers.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the joints between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After that, if silicone or epoxy grout is used, the edges of the tiles are additionally pasted over with masking tape. If this is not done, then the dried mixture will be difficult to clean off from the glazed surface of the tile.

Then, using a rubber trowel, a small amount of grout is applied over the joint and pressed into the depths. Putting a rubber spatula across the seam, and with pressure running over it, remove the excess. In this case, the seam is slightly deepened and compared.

Remove masking tape and grout residues after it is completely dry. Having cleaned and washed out the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered complete.

Note: ceramic tiles are laid in a similar way. The differences partly relate only to the nuances in the methods of cutting tiles.

A little about tile cutting

Virtually no tiling work is complete without the need for trimming. You can do it the most different ways: from glass cutters to modern diamond cutting machines. If a mechanical hand tool then the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. Then scrapping is performed. Floor tiles are more massive and cannot be cut nicely with a glass cutter. For all types of tile cutters, the split wheel has a significant larger diameter 1.6 cm to form a deeper cut.

For example, consider the option of cutting using a mechanical tile cutter:

  1. Such a tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with stops, on which a ruler is applied. This makes it easier to cut a whole row of tiles to the same size. Adjust the limiters to the required distance so that the intended cut line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
  2. In the upper part of the tool, along two guides, a carriage walks, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, in which the petals are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We take the carriage to the edge farthest from us. The wheel is attached to the edge of the tile and with pressure is drawn along its surface along the cutting line.
  3. After that, the emphasis on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and the tiles are staked with a slight pressure.


The difficult moment is not a straight line segment and not diagonally, but curly cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for leading out wires, bypassing sockets or exiting water pipes... In this case, the shape of the cut is outlined on the glazed side, and it is drawn along the line with a neat cutting wheel of a manual tile cutter. After that, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile piece by piece until only the part necessary in shape remains. The resulting edge will turn out to be quite uneven; a file or sandpaper is used to solve this problem.

When using an electric machine, the entire part that should be removed on the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bite off, the edge is also compared with a file.

  • It is good if the tiles fit along the length of the row without the need for cutting the extreme one. If this is not the case, then the laying row should be shifted so that the last tile is intact. If, in this case, the remaining gap requires a piece of 1-2 cm, the row is still shifted in order to put wider pieces along the two edges. This will eliminate the need for time-consuming cutting of narrow strips of tile.
  • The same applies to marking the position of the rows in height, especially when laying is not done under the ceiling, but up to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first bottom row is formed from pieces, and the top one from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
  • It is best to lay tiles in the corridor, starting from filling the space along long walls, leaving in the middle or from one of the edges a gap of one tile. In this case, it is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to get lost and not to make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
  • If used various options laying in the form of figured construction or using tiles different colors, it is necessary to designate in advance the location of tiles that are different in shape, direction or design. It is often used to split individual tiles diagonally to form the pattern by spreading the joints. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of the cut tiles for filling in the last turn.
  • Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive used. Some options involve moistening the tile surface before installing it on a layer of adhesive solution applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

06-02-2015

Tiled walls are a very successful and durable finish. If the work is done with high quality and in accordance with all the rules, then you can get rid of the repair for 20, or even 30 years. In addition to saving on repairs, tiling allows several times to simplify the maintenance of the surface of the walls and floor.

Tiles are currently available for purchase, appearance which other Decoration Materials such as wood, a natural stone etc. Therefore, the aesthetic side of finishing a kitchen or bathroom will be at a high level. If you want to get an even greater percentage of savings by choosing tiles as finishing, then do this work yourself. How to lay the tiles will be described below.

Getting started: features

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. These include the measurement of the area, which will be finished with tiles. Using a tape measure, we take the necessary measurements horizontally, vertically, and also diagonally. Basically, this process should be carried out especially carefully so that during the work you do not expect unexpected surprises.

The geometric parameters of the room can be checked very easily using wooden beam... A more accurate way to detect vertical deviations is to use a plumb line. Its structure consists of a rope from ceiling to floor, at the end of which a load is fixed.

The horizontal parameters are checked using a factory-made or home-made level. In case of significant deviations, it is necessary to level the walls with a plaster layer.

If you decide that alignment is not necessary, then puddles will form in the grooves on the floor, and the tiles on the walls will look ugly, since serious drops are not just striking, but also have a negative impact on the quality of the masonry and its durability.

The next stage includes the creation of a drawing on which there will be a floor plan with a designation of the scheme of future finishing. Tiles on the floor, walls and all difficult areas in the area of ​​plumbing and so on must be indicated in the plan.

When performing calculations for the required amount of materials, it is necessary to slightly increase the result obtained, since anything happens in the process. You can accidentally damage the tiles, or you may come across a defective specimen.

You need to purchase tiles in the right quantity right away, since over time the store may no longer have the colors you need.

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Selection of materials and preparation of tools

Choose the grout to match the color of the tile.

The choice of tile adhesive also has its own characteristics. It should be designed for the conditions in which the tile is supposed to be used. For example, a bathroom or work zone kitchens involve the use of a special glue that is resistant to moisture. Simultaneously with the purchase of glue, you need to purchase a grout that will match the shade of the tile. If your project does not have plans for the use of colored grout, then you can purchase a regular formulation.

In addition to the materials listed above, for laying tiles with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • construction mixer. It is useful for the process of mixing various kinds of compounds, for example, primers. If you do not have a construction mixer, you can use a regular electric drill equipped with a special mixing attachment;
  • notched spatula. The size of this tool directly depends on the size of the tiles chosen for laying;
  • a spatula 10 cm in size, with it you will apply the composition to the notched tool, you can also use a trowel;
  • you will need a tile cutter to cut the tile. If not, you can use a regular glass cutter;
  • if the scope of work is very large, then you will need a grinder to speed up the progress of work and facilitate the process of trimming tiles;
  • another spatula, but already rubber. It is used to apply grout to the finished surface.

For beginner inexperienced craftsmen, the most suitable and easy to implement will be the way of laying tiles, which is called "seam in seam". There are, of course, other, more complex methods, but the first time it is better to start simple. If the finishing involves the use of decorative details (borders, friezes, etc.), then it is necessary to think over their location in advance. You also need to purchase these decorative elements with a certain margin.

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Prepare the surface for tiling

Only in the case of a perfectly prepared surface, the quality of the tiling and its durability will be guaranteed to you. For this purpose it is necessary:

  1. Carefully check the entire area of ​​the treated surface for the quality of the plaster attachment, and if weak spots are found, clean the wall up to the brickwork.
  2. Dismantle all plumbing fixtures, this way you exclude their damage during operation, and the finishing will be simpler, since nothing will interfere with you.
  3. Walls that are already tiled must be freed from the old coating.
  4. When doing this work, take care of protection for your eyes and hands. If the walls have a layer of paint on their surface, it also needs to be removed; this can be done using a perforator.
  5. After all these procedures have been carried out, you need to start the process of leveling the walls.

Apartment renovation

How to lay tiles on the floor- in this article with detailed explanations and photographic materials, we will tell you how to lay ceramic tiles on the floor of a toilet or bathroom. We will also highlight the features of tiling the floor in rooms with a small area, since in large spaces it is necessary to use complex expensive tools, which require a certain skill to use (projection laser level, level), and labor-intensive technologies. In addition, you most likely will hardly need to lay tiles on the floor in a huge area of ​​tens and hundreds of squares in your apartment. Well, even if the need arises, it is still better to start with a small room.

So, for example, we will be laying tiles on the toilet floor. As the main material, we will use granite ceramics measuring 30 x 30 cm of a commercial grade, choose the color to taste, and quick-drying tile glue. We will make the seam width 4 mm, since this is the most optimal size for floor tiles this format.

Surface preparation

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to prepare all tools and materials (glue and tiles). We dismantle the toilet bowl, having previously disconnected it from all communications (sewer riser and cold water), we plug the fan pipe with burlap or any other rag. We remove the old coating (etc.) from the floor, if there is an old ceramic tile left, it is necessary to beat off all of it, then we take out all the construction waste from the toilet, the floor must be swept and wiped with a wet rag.

Before laying the tiles on the floor, you need to check the slope of the floor using a level and find the highest point - it is in this place that the layer of glue will be thinnest (about 0.8 cm). In this case, we do not consider manufacturing, since there is hardly a person willing to wait 3 days and live all this time without using the toilet. If you still decide, then fill the floors to the required level. In such a small room, a slope of one meter is permissible up to 0.5 cm. We will assume that the floor from our example is practically flat, and the deviation does not exceed the permissible limits for the entire length of the bathroom.

Having prepared the surface of the floor, cover it with a roller with liquid acrylate primer. For convenience, take a small roller - and for such tasks it is almost ideal (it takes up little primer, is inexpensive, and can be used many times).

If you have a wooden lining under the toilet, it is better to take it out, and fill the void from it with concrete. If there is no time to do this, then you just need to thoroughly saturate the lining with soil, literally pour it on top, absolutely not diluting it, and level it properly. But in this case, it must be borne in mind that the piece of wood must be strong, because when attaching the toilet, if the self-tapping screw accidentally falls into the joint between the lining and the floor, it will not hold.

Wait about an hour for the primer to dry completely. Then you can proceed to the next step for laying the tiles on the floor.

Dry laying tiles

Before you start laying tiles on the floor with glue, you must first lay them on dry. The small volume of the room allows us not only to lay dry solid tiles, but also to mark and trim most of the non-solid ones. It is more convenient to lay tiles in the bathroom from the pipe, and not from the corner. As a result, from the beginning we mark and cut out the tiles that will lie under the pipe.

According to the obtained dimensions, we cut out the tiles of the desired shape. At best, a wet diamond cutting machine is used.

After trimming, the trimmed tiles are laid only on dry under the pipe. It should be borne in mind that the tile, due to the layer of tile glue, will rise higher, so you do not need to cut it too tightly to the pipe itself. It is necessary to take a stock of 15 - 20 mm. from each side.

Then all adjacent tiles are marked and cut off. Using a tape measure, the distance to the wall is measured (in two places), and the dimensions of the seams and the indents from the walls are subtracted from this distance.

This completes the preparation for laying the tiles on the floor, and you can start facing.

So, we dilute the tile glue in the right proportions (read the instructions).

Next, apply a uniform layer of glue to a small area of ​​the floor using a notched trowel. It is not necessary to cover a large space with glue at once, it is enough to spread it on an area equal to 1-2 tiles, because if something goes wrong, and, after a while, the glue will dry out and will be unusable. Before laying, it is advisable to lightly wipe each tile from the back side with a damp cloth to remove ceramic chips and dust from it, which will impair adhesion. It is not necessary to wet or wash the porcelain stoneware tile strongly, since it does not absorb water well. But there is no need to rush either.

how to lay tiles on the floor

We lay the first row of tiles and wedge the tiles using crosses to create a beautiful even seam. If suddenly the tile protrudes too much above the surface of the general row, "drown" it with back and forth movements, or slowly settle the tile with a rubber mallet.

how to lay tiles on the floor

If the tile, on the contrary, sags, you need to carefully tear it off the surface and apply more glue to the base. If your seams diverge, then you need to wedge the tiles from the side of the wall. For wedging, you can use crosses, as well as plastic or wooden wedges. You can use masking tape to further secure the tiles. When laying the second row, check for a slope with a spirit level.

Next, continue laying out the rows while checking the slope of the floor, wedge the seams with crosses and remove excess glue. For these purposes, a special tile sponge is best suited, but in its absence, you can do with a regular sponge or dish rag. However, in order not to clog the sewer riser with the remnants of tile glue, be sure to rinse the sponge in a bucket of clean water before washing it.

It is better to clean the seams of excess glue using the same crosses. When cleaning, you need to wait a little until the glue mixture dries slightly, then it will become much easier to clean it, but you should not wait too long.

Gradually lay the floor with tiles in rows, there is no need to rush. Check every tile.

The main thing in the installation process is to remember the exact order of all the necessary operations: they applied the glue mixture to the floor, then took the tiles in their hands, rubbed them with a special sponge, applied glue to it, pressed them to the floor surface, leveled them, checked the slope with a level, spread them with crosses , removed excess glue. We reported the row in full, checked it, and started the next row.

how to put tiles on the floor

We report the tiles to the last row; for laying it, it is necessary to measure and trim the tiles.

And the ceramic tiles are actually laid on the floor. It remains to wait for the glue to grab, clean the tile from its remnants and wipe the seams. How long does this work usually take? On average, it will take you from 4 to 5 hours (taking into account the preparation and dismantling of the toilet), but if any difficulties arise, the work time can stretch up to 8-10 hours. Some more time will have to be spent on installing the toilet, installing the threshold and, grouting and putting things in order, that is, the duration common work on tiling the floor will take about two days.

We hope this article helped answer the question - how to put tiles on the floor? Successful repairs to you!

Floor calculator

The calculator contains general average data for preliminary calculations.

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