Reinforcement for tiles on the floor. Proper floor preparation before laying tiles

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The most common type of bathroom or kitchen decoration is tile. The relative simplicity of its installation, hygiene and durability is recognized by all. Such a coating does not absorb moisture, it is easy to clean and maintain, if the correct waterproofing is done, then it does not let water through to the lower floors in case of a leak. But preparing the floor for laying tiles requires care and meticulousness.


Only drawback tile-the high cost of preparatory work and its laying. Therefore, so that there is no need to redo all the work, you need to properly carry out the preparatory work. The main requirements for the base on which the tiles are laid are the horizontalness of the surface and its evenness.

You should also monitor the moisture content in the work area, and make sure that the surface is well dried before laying.

The preparation of floors for tiling depends on their structure, often tiles are laid on a cement base, but there are cases when the floors are covered with plywood, vinyl or old tiles.

Benefits of a flat surface

The general requirements for a surface of any type for laying tiles is its horizontal position. Preparing the floor for tiles requires leveling the floor before proceeding. The device of an even and smooth screed ensures that the tiles are laid correctly. We can say that a flat floor is the basis of success. Also, it will give:

  • Great savings in adhesive.
  • Reduced tile laying time.
  • High quality of work.
  • Longer lifespan of the tile floor.

The average consumption of glue for laying tiles, depending on the brand and manufacturer of the adhesive mixture, is from 4 to 5 kg of mortar per square meter. m. These standards are applicable if laying is done over a flat screed.

Below are the options for how the floor preparation should be carried out, depending on the coating. But the general rule for all types of floors should be observed - the screed surface on which the tiles are planned to be laid must be well cleaned, especially in the bathroom, where increased floor strength is required. This can be achieved using:

  • grinders or just a grinding wheel;
  • abrasive powder or mixture;
  • various scraper tools.

Preparation of cement slabs for tiles

In cases where ceramics have to be laid on cement screed, for example, in the bathroom, you should carefully examine it and make sure that there are no large dents and cracks. Such defects inevitably lead to the destruction of the tile, so you should start by eliminating the identified irregularities and cracks. Apply chemical agents it is not necessary to clean the cement surface, since chemistry can affect the adhesive with which you will make the lining.

By their structure, concrete bases are very convenient for covering with tiles, you should just not forget to level the surface before laying. Horizontalness should be kept very strictly, deviations should be minimized. Filling the floor with a special self-leveling mixture, you can achieve the leveling of the screed and improve the structure of the floor, achieving its smoothness.


In cases where you make a cement base yourself, remember that according to building codes, it is necessary to withstand cement floors for about four weeks before finishing them with any kind of coating. Accelerate the fixation of the cementitious base special means it is also not recommended, since such formulations may not be compatible with tile adhesive solutions. It is possible to lay an insulating layer on the cement coating, it will protect the tile surface from possible cracks. At the same time, tiles are laid only using cement-based mortars.

There are cement substrates that are not recommended for tiling, especially in the bathroom. These are surfaces made of cement with additives for fast hardening. These additives create a film on the cement base and make tiling difficult. The presence of such additives in the cement is determined by applying a few drops of water to the tested surface. If the droplets remain in balls on the cement and do not spread over the surface, this indicates the presence of these additives in the cement.

Preparing the plywood base

Preparing a wooden floor for tiles is not very common. The generally accepted opinion of builders is that a plywood base is poorly suited for laying tiles, since it does not have sufficient strength and stability. If the plywood bends under the weight of the tile, then it can crack during operation. If, nevertheless, you have no other options but to put the tile on the plywood, then its thickness should be at least 28 millimeters and the plywood should be laid on a sufficiently strong frame.

Since for a firm adhesion of the tile, very smooth surface, then the plywood needs to be sanded additionally. In rooms with high humidity - bathrooms and toilets, it is recommended to apply an insulating layer over the plywood in the form of a screed. Such a coating compensates for the deformation of the wooden base under the influence of humidity and temperature in the bathroom and kitchen.

Substrate preparation with existing ceramic coating

If there is an old tile in the bathroom or in the kitchen, then there are two options for laying the new coating:

  1. We cut down the old tile, and then we lay the new one.
  2. We put the new finish on top of the existing one, on the cement mortar.

In the first case, hard and painstaking work will be necessary, while if the base remains uneven after removing the old coating, it will be necessary to level the floor by making a cement screed.

When applying the second option, do not forget to check how the floor height changes relative to doors and cabinets. In order for the new tile to adhere well to the old one, the latter should be treated with emery, giving its surface some roughness.

What to do with old linoleum

Experienced builders strongly recommend removing old linoleum coverings, even if they are firmly adhered to the floor. It should be removed together with glue residues, especially asbestos. Old vinyl flooring often contains this material, which is very harmful to the body. Asbestos must be completely removed from the floor surface, it is better to entrust it to professionals.

In some cases, it is possible to carry out a screed over the linoleum, then with the help of cement-based glue, you can glue the tile to the floor. When doing this, carefully check the compatibility of the tile adhesive with the cement-based coating that was laid on top of the vinyl backing.

As always, before starting work it will not be superfluous to refer to the basic standard SNiP 3.04.01-87 / SP 71.13330.2011 "Insulation and finishing coatings". The surface of the concrete floor must meet the basic requirements of this document and be:


Modern adhesives are mixtures of cement, mineral fillers and modifying additives. Therefore, leveling the floor is allowed. tile adhesive in the presence of irregularities up to 5 mm.

It will be useful to remind you that before starting all work, you need to familiarize yourself with the instructions for using dry building mixtures for tiles and porcelain stoneware. This will help to avoid many mistakes during the installation process.

Note also that this article discusses the preparation of the floor for laying tiles in the kitchen, bathroom, hallway or any other room. When installing a shower in the bathroom, the technology becomes more complicated due to:


Leveling the floor under the tiles: methods and features

Any flooring must be installed on a level, dry and solid base. But rare concrete surface meets these requirements. Therefore, apply different ways leveling the floor under the tiles with your own hands:

  1. Tile adhesive (ready-made dry mixes);
  2. Self-leveling (leveling) compounds;
  3. Cement-sand composition (screed).

Each of the above remedies has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them in more detail.

Tile adhesive

From a professional point of view, it is better to use specialized products - leveling agents, thin-layer finishing compositions. But since the adhesive contains all the necessary components (cement, quartz sand, plasticizers), it is really allowed to use it in order to smooth the floor for laying tiles. But there are several nuances here.

  • If the floor is almost level and a thin layer is required, then glue must be sealed. big amount water until the consistency of liquid sour cream is obtained;
  • The preparation of the floor for laying with differences of 5-10 mm is carried out with a thicker mixture, optimally in 2 passes. That is, for the first time, a preparatory layer with a thickness of 3-6 mm is poured and stretched, and in the second - the finishing layer, no more than 4 mm.

Secondly, many craftsmen prefer to use cheap mixtures for leveling, and already directly when working with tiles or porcelain stoneware, use expensive, professional compositions with a high degree of adhesion and plasticity. In addition, they already contain special water-repellent additives, thanks to which preliminary waterproofing is not required. This is true for kitchens, balconies, hallways and other similar premises.

Thirdly, there is no clear instruction. Each master develops his own work algorithm for himself, but the principle is the same: cleaning, priming and applying a leveling mixture. The discrepancy is only in proportions, and most importantly - in terms. Cement needs at least 28 days to fully mature and gain strength, but the percentage of its content in adhesive mixtures is less than half of the total mass. In addition, the composition contains a variety of plasticizers, including hardening accelerators, workability enhancements, etc. Therefore, it is worth focusing on such an indicator as the period after which a full load on the ceramic flooring is allowed. As a rule, for internal work, this period is from 5 to 7 days.

The technology is simple:


Self-leveling compounds

An incredibly convenient development that allows you to smooth the surface of the base with a layer of 2 mm to 10 cm - these are leveling compounds. They are divided into basic levelers (coarse-grained), universal and finishing (fine-grained thin-layer). Immediately, we note that all three types are suitable for our purposes (depending on the thickness of the layer). To form a durable coating, it is better to use cement or cement-gypsum compositions.

The advantages of bulk liquid formulations are in the speed and convenience of working with them. Laying is allowed ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, artificial or natural stone within 3-5 days after pouring. You need to select a suitable composition based on:

  1. Applications (indoor or outdoor);
  2. Method of use (manual or machine);
  3. Layer thickness.

The self-leveling floor device must be carried out strictly in accordance with the instructions. The surface is cleaned of dirt and old coatings, weak areas are removed and filled with repair mixtures. Then the primer is applied in 2-3 layers with obligatory drying within 12-24 hours.

Along the perimeter of the room, the level of the new floor is marked on the walls, or point beacons are installed. When forming a layer with a cross section of more than 1 cm, it is advisable to use a damper tape.

The solution is mixed in the proportion indicated on the label, poured onto the surface and distributed with a spatula, squeegee. The coating is rolled with a needle roller for deaeration and compaction. The leveled base will be ready for further work in a few days.

Screed

Cement-sand mixture - universal and inexpensive remedy alignment of any type of base. Due to the high content of binder, the surface is very hard, practically does not deform and withstands significant loads. But the period of drying and curing is too long - up to 28 days. Because of this, preference is often given to bulk compounds or tile glue.

For leveling the floor with a layer of more than 3 cm, a full-fledged screed is perfect. You can purchase a ready-made packaged mixture or form it yourself in an approximate proportion: 1 part of cement, 3-5 parts of sand and water in an amount sufficient to obtain a thick solution (approximately 20% by volume). You can add screenings, crushed stone, reinforcing fiberglass, expanded clay, crushed slag to the composition. That is, everything that will give the screed additional properties: strength, thermal insulation, etc.

Beacons are installed on the floor. These can be reference products, metal profiles fixed with mortar, or even just nails screwed into the base at the required level. The finished composition is applied to the surface and distributed by the rule. After pouring, experts recommend covering the floor with a film and periodically moistening it to uniformly ripen the cement and gain strength. After 14-28 days (depending on the thickness), the screed is ready for laying tiles or porcelain stoneware.

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Today we will talk about laying tiles in an apartment with our own hands.

Features of the preparation of walls and floors for laying tiles

Before you start laying tiles on the floor and walls, you need to competently prepare the work surfaces. Let's start with a story about preparing the base of the walls.

About the preparation of wall surfaces

First of all, we will conduct a thorough revision of each section of the surface of each wall. Let's find out if time has revealed "weak" sectors where the plaster is crumbling or (even worse) flaking.

Such areas of the wall surface should be cleaned off to the base. Please note that often plaster removal in one of the areas causes an "avalanche effect" - when the entire surface then begins to peel off. However, this is a necessary evil.

If we are dealing with a well-preserved layer of plaster, it is not worth dismantling it, however, it is imperative to remove the remnants of the previous coating.

Providing a "healthy" base for the future tile layer is very important point... If you have the slightest suspicion of mold contamination of the walls, be sure to treat all surfaces with special compounds. To do this, first you will have to remove the upper, loose plaster layer, and then start processing, maybe even repeated (it is important to follow the instructions for using this special tool).

We emphasize that the treatment of walls against mold must be carried out not only in the affected sector, but also everywhere. Often, mold and fungus do not appear visually, but this or that area is already infected.

After finishing the above treatment, we begin to prime the surface. To do this, take a deep penetration soil solution with a set of antiseptic properties. We prime the walls with two layers. The application of the second layer is possible only after the first layer is completely absorbed and dried.

Now we move on to such an important stage as leveling wall surfaces. At the same stage, we will eliminate minor defects. So, in no case should even a small amount of cracks and cracks be left on the surfaces. The exact values ​​of the length and width of each of them should be determined, after which they should be filled with one of the types of repair compound (for example, putty) and aligned with the common planes of the walls.

There are many common methods for leveling wall surfaces. We are talking about the use of plasterboard panels, puttying, full layer of plaster, etc. The optimal solution here is to resort to the method that is most suitable for this particular case.

Unlike options for preparing for wallpapering and painting the wall, we will not try to make the surface perfectly smooth at all costs. The presence of slight roughness, on the contrary, will contribute to better adhesion of the tile adhesive. However, do not confuse small roughness with serious potholes and ridges that must be repaired. Otherwise, these types of defects can seriously complicate the task of leveling the tiles at the laying stage.

All points related to the installation of plumbing and electrical equipment in the room should also be considered at this stage of work. What exactly can we talk about in this context? For example, about the device for routing pipes, laying wires in corrugated hoses, drilling holes for socket boxes, cutting out strips and much more. Each of these elements must be marked on the drawings with maximum precision. Only in this case, after the completion of the repair, you will know exactly where and how the hidden communications are located.

About floor preparation

In principle, everything that was said above about the preparation of wall surfaces can be equally attributed to the floor. Before laying the tiles, the floor surface must be stable, durable and "healthy", and, of course, even. In addition, it should be leveled horizontally (in some cases, the floor surface is given a slight slope, so that the spilled water goes in the direction of the ladder). Only after all of the above conditions are met, you can start laying the tiles on the floor.

Do not forget that the tiles laid on the floor must, among other things, withstand a serious level of dynamic and weight loads. This moment is important when preparing the sub-floor for the tiles.

About the preparation of the concrete base of the floor

Let's start by carefully examining the "old" surface. If we are dealing with a screed, we should tap its entire area to identify unstable sectors. Each of the "coiled" sections must be removed completely, up to the floor slabs (until the rough screed appears). Loose and crumbling fragments and areas where bitumen or oil stains have deeply eaten should also not be left. In this case, cleaning is carried out until we see "healthy" concrete.

It often happens that, removing damaged fragments one by one, we understand that this process is practically no different from complete dismantling screeds. But, in such a situation, it is better to complete the work.

After the dismantling is over and all the debris has been removed, we begin to fill in a new reinforced screed (at least 30 millimeters thick). Thus, we prepare a solid, high-quality, horizontally ideal base, on which it will be possible to lay tiles without any problems.

In cases where you are sure of the "old" screed, you can restrict yourself to only repairing it. It is necessary to get rid of such defects as large irregularities, cracks, dips, cracks, protrusions, etc.

The presence of small depressions (the length and width is not more than one slab of tiles, the depth is not more than 2-3 millimeters) is permissible - one way or another, they will be filled with tile adhesive during the installation process. Another thing - different kinds bumps and protrusions - they must be removed, as they can become a serious obstacle to the laying of tiles.

At the final stage of preparation of the concrete base, we first completely remove the dust from the floor surface, after which we proceed to the process of priming the base. The primer (with deep penetration) should preferably be applied in two layers.

Often, many apartment owners ask themselves the question: is it reasonable to leave the old tile covering as the basis for a new tile? The answer will be in the affirmative if the old tile was laid correctly, and the tile itself was originally of high quality.

Video: Preparing for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Read about all the most important and interesting points of the tile laying process in the materials of this section:

Ceramic tiles are popular in interiors when decorating floors and walls. Their beauty, durability, ease of care attracts consumers. The service life of the decorative coating depends on the thoroughness of the preliminary preparation of the base.

What is this article about

Surface requirements

Preparing the floor for laying tiles includes a number of mandatory works that make it possible to make the future base of high quality, even, capable of withstanding intense loads. What you need to pay attention to:

  • the presence of irregularities;
  • strength check;
  • protection against moisture, mold, mildew;
  • surface cleanliness;
  • adhesion of materials.

Removing the floor covering

To estimate the scope of the proposed work, it is necessary to remove the old coating. If a tile is laid out on the base, then it is dismantled together with the cement mortar, using a perforator with a nozzle or a chisel. If linoleum, laminate, parquet was laid, then it is removed using an improvised tool. It is important to clean the surface from glue residues, stains or paint with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution.

Sex is of the following types:

  • concrete (rough, with a screed);
  • wood;
  • with an old screed;
  • with a ready-made base.

Depending on the type flooring preparing the floor for laying tiles will take a different amount of time, money, materials and tools. When working with any of the surfaces, follow a certain order:

  • assessment of the quality of the floor. The presence of irregularities, cracks, the strength of the base, the degree of slope;
  • correction of identified deficiencies;
  • cleaning;
  • treatment with antifungal protective impregnations;
  • laying waterproofing;
  • screed application;
  • drying;
  • primer.

Concrete floor preparation

General rules that apply in order to prepare the floor for laying tiles.

  1. Using a 2 m long rule, mark protrusions over 3 cm and remove them. Slots and joints are widened, treated with soil, cemented;
  2. Remove dust, grains of sand from the surface with a vacuum cleaner, wipe off oil stains. They are treated with mold impregnation;
  3. Make waterproofing. Suitable for this: thick plastic film, geotextile, mastic, bituminous roll materials, waterproof varnishes and paints. In rooms with high humidity, the film is continued on the walls (up to 30 cm). In residential premises, it is convenient to process the joints between the floor and the wall, slabs with mastic;
  4. The type of screed is selected depending on the slope of the floor or the most protruding part of it. So:
    • a height difference of up to 3 cm, corrected with a solution (tile adhesive), on which the tiles will be laid, or, the entire surface is filled with a self-leveling screed. It should be noted that quick drying of the mixture is achieved due to substances that form a film on the floor surface that interferes with the good adhesion of the coating to the base;
    • up to 10 cm use a cement-sand screed. The thicker its layer, the longer it dries, possibly the appearance of cracks;
    • over 10 cm, expanded clay is spread, and then it is poured with a solution for leveling.
  5. Drying. Complete solidification cement mortar comes in 28 days. When using quick-drying mixtures - depending on the manufacturer;
  6. Primer. It improves the adhesion properties of the surface with the cladding, gets rid of dust residues, has antiseptic properties, protects against excessive moisture absorption. It is rolled over the surface with a roller in several layers. The choice of a priming solution is determined by the type of screed;
  7. After the primer has completely dried (up to 12 hours), the surface preparation for tiling is complete.

Floor preparation with old screed

If there is a screed on the concrete base, it is necessary to assess its condition. If there are small cracks, depressions, then they need to be expanded, treated with soil and sealed with a solution that will be used when laying the decorative coating. If the screed, when tapped with a metal hammer, makes a dull sound, crumbles, then it must be completely removed. Further, the whole process takes place in the manner described above.

Preparing the wood floor

The floor prepared for tiling must be level, clean and durable. It should be remembered that wood is subject to expansion and contraction, these properties can affect the strength of the surface, the quality of the final result.

If the floorboards do not creak, do not squeeze, then all the cracks will foam. polyurethane foam or putty, the surface is primed, waterproofing is applied for wooden surfaces... Then, a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10 cm is laid, filled with a self-leveling solution for wood.

If the floor is shaking, then remove all the floorboards. The logs are treated with an antiseptic, expanded clay is poured between them or foam is laid (to improve thermal insulation), a layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing is placed on top, and GVL plates are attached. A space of up to 2 cm is left between the wall and the slab (a gap for expansion depending on humidity), which is then foamed. Further, the slabs are primed, work is carried out according to the plan.

Laying on a finished decorative coating

There are times when linoleum is well glued to the surface and it is quite difficult to remove it. To improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the substrate, it is permissible to sand the floor with sandpaper in order to better prepare it for tiling. When laying out a new tile on an old one, it is necessary to wipe its surface, check whether the tile is properly attached. The pieces of tile that have fallen off are removed, and the space under it is filled with tile glue. Make sure that the new layer of tiles will not interfere with the opening of the door.

After all the preparatory work has been completed, the preparation of the floor for the tiles is completed. It remains only to lay the tiles on the finished surface.

How to prepare the walls for laying out decorative elements?

The surface of the wall, as well as of the floor, must be clean, level and solid. Tiles laid on such a base will serve for many years. The procedure for preparing a wall for a tile is as follows:

  • cleaning the surface from old coatings;
  • alignment;
  • soil treatment.

If there are old tiles, paint or wallpaper on the walls, this material must be carefully removed, as it will impair the adhesion between the mortar and the wall. In the absence of coverage, preparing the walls for laying the tiles will take a minimum amount of time. You will need to assess the type of wall flaw: concave, curved, with slopes, with irregularities at the joints. Depending on the height difference, use:

  • plastering with a cement-sand mixture (for a bath) with drops of up to 6 cm or gypsum mixtures for kitchens and corridors;
  • the use of drywall sheets - over 6 cm;
  • usage metal profiles and GCR with significant surface curvatures.

Plastering

Notches are made on the wall with a chisel, and a grater is used to roughen it. The surface is cleaned of dust, primed with a suitable solution (depending on the porosity of the wall). If the curvature is within 1 cm, then plastering is not required. If more, then you need:

  • install beacons along the edges of the walls, pull the thread and fix the slats with mortar;
  • apply plaster to the wall with a spatula and distribute evenly with a rule;
  • wait until dry;
  • remove beacons;
  • fill the holes with the remnants of the solution;
  • after complete drying, the plaster is rubbed;
  • the surface is primed again.

Using drywall sheets

If the curvature is more than 6 cm, it is required Preliminary processing walls before laying the tiles with plasterboard. First, you need to remove dust from the surface and apply a primer. Next, prepare the sheets, and starting from the floor, glue them to the wall using a level and a rubber mallet. Mounting glue is applied to the surface of the gypsum board with a step of 40 cm. Rub the seams with a finishing putty. After drying, the surface is primed.

Metal profiles and drywall

In case of severe deformations, the preparation of walls for tiles is carried out using metal profiles. With the help of self-tapping screws, the structure is assembled, the distance between the fasteners is 50-60 cm. The sheets of plasterboard material should go half the width of the profile. Waterproofing is laid between the wall and the sheets.

Tile is a beautiful, durable material. And the question of how to properly prepare the walls for laying tiles should be approached scrupulously and responsibly.

For finishing the bathroom or kitchen floor the best material is a tile. It is great for rooms with high humidity, moreover, it is practical and unpretentious to maintain. To create a high-quality and aesthetic surface, you need to know how to prepare the floor for tiling. The features of the renovation work will depend on the type of foundation in the house, so it is recommended to consider each option.




Instrument preparation

Preparing a floor for tiles is a long, troublesome and rather messy process, because it often involves removing the old coating.

To complete the work, you will need the following tools:

  • roulette;
  • level;
  • brush with steel teeth;
  • hammer and chisel;
  • several spatulas of different sizes;
  • brush brush;
  • trowel;
  • rule;
  • needle roller.

In addition, removing the old concrete or ceramic base will require a hammer drill, and for a wooden one - a screwdriver, jigsaw, hacksaw. Another important tool is an electric drill or construction mixer, with the help of which the self-leveling concrete mixture will be mixed.


Concrete base

To prepare concrete base for laying tiles in a new house, the easiest way is, because often it does not need to be leveled.

The repair process is as follows:

  • The first step is to clean up and fill the existing cracks and cracks with cement mortar.
  • Next, you need to take care of the waterproofing of the floor, this can be done by means of roll materials in the form of a film, or lubricants, like mastic. Having chosen the film, its installation must be done with an overlap on the walls. If the choice has settled on mastic, then it should be carefully smeared over the entire surface, especially the junction of the walls and floor.
  • The next step is the screed. If the base has a large unevenness, about 10 cm, it is recommended to use expanded clay mixture, and in other cases it will be sufficient cement-sand mortar... The hardened screed is treated with a primer, after which you can start laying the tiles.


In old houses, concrete floors often require repair, so if there is local damage, then they should be covered with cement. If old screed is in poor condition, then it must be completely removed using a puncher, and then all the irregularities must be cleaned up and the cracks covered. Further work is carried out in the same sequence as when preparing a new concrete base.

Wood surface

For tiling, the wood base is not the best option since it does not differ in reliability and durability. If under the boards there is concrete slab, as, for example, in the old "Khrushchev", then they should be removed, and fill the surface with a self-leveling screed. In other cases, you will have to work with a wood surface. The easiest way is to prepare a wooden floor that is not damaged, such as rotten or fallen planks.


Renovation work are performed in several stages:

1. The joints of the boards and all kinds of cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, and after it hardens, the excess is eliminated.

2. Using a brush, coat the floor with a wood primer. The tool is similar to mastic, both in appearance and in properties, therefore additional waterproofing is not required.

3. The primed base is covered with a reinforcing mesh, and then filled with a self-leveling mortar. It should be noted that you can use not only the store mix, but also prepare it yourself by mixing liquid glass with coarse river sand and water in a ratio of 2: 2: 1.

4. After the mortar has set, you can start laying the tiles.




The process of preparing a rotten wooden floor is much more difficult, because it implies a complete replacement of the boards.

The repair sequence is as follows:

  • Using a screwdriver, jigsaw or hacksaw, remove all old floorboards. In some cases, you have to use a crowbar.
  • Rotten logs, to which wood boards are attached, also need to be replaced. Strong, undamaged elements can be left. The cavities between the logs are filled with insulating material, for example, expanded clay, foam or glass wool.
  • A steam and waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, with a slight overlap on the walls.
  • As a new floor covering, plywood or gypsum fiber sheets are used, which are attached to the logs with self-tapping screws. In order for the base to be strong enough, the material is laid in 2 layers. A small space should remain between the walls and the GVL, no more than 2 cm, which is then filled with cement mortar.
  • The laid gypsum-fiber sheets are treated with a primer, and after it has dried, you can start tiling the floor.


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