Drywall walls: pros and cons. How to make a drywall partition for zoning space with your own hands How to make drywall partitions correctly

Starting repairs in an apartment or in a house, sometimes the question of redevelopment arises. Installation of drywall partitions in an apartment is the best option to bring a touch of freshness to the room and even expand the space. This can be the case if you put appliances in the partition or transfer photo frames and vases from the bedside table to the shelves in the partition.

Ready-made project and design of a plasterboard partition

In order to do the installation of a partition, you can with a door, it is not necessary to buy a lot of materials on the construction market and collect a certain amount of tools.

Drywall is the most malleable building material, from which you can make a partition that harmoniously fits into the interior of the house, performing the function of not only a partition, but also shelves, niches.

Advantages of drywall partitions and their disadvantages

They have a number of advantages over concrete, brick and wood:

The disadvantages include such facts as strength and fragility. If the room is damp, then the plasterboard construction is deformed. Partition use:

• it is possible to hold additional lighting for the room;
• can serve as a closet or mini dressing room;
• serve;
• be used as a shelf for photo frames and paintings.

Depending on what function the partition will carry, it can be made to the very top of the room or below.

The choice of drywall for the construction of partitions

The construction market offers several types of drywall. This building sheet is sheathed on both sides with cardboard paper, and there is plaster inside. For installation of a partition, the following types are possible:

Cardboard is selected depending on where the partition is planned. If it is (with high humidity), then GKLV is required. If the partition is planned in the office of the production workshop - GKLO. Partitions made of Knauf drywall have a longer life than ordinary plasterboard.

Necessary tools and materials

When selecting necessary materials, except for drywall, you should understand the profiles:

And you will also need:

You will also need wires, corrugation, a switch and sockets. Do not forget about the final decorative finish.

An example of finishing and design of a plasterboard partition

It definitely needs a primer, roller, brush, wallpaper or paint, ceramic tile.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a plasterboard partition

In order to reproduce the partition, it is not necessary to hire a team of craftsmen, whose installation cost is quite high. This can be done by hand. The technology for mounting a plasterboard partition is performed subject to an exact step-by-step algorithm of actions.

The first thing to do is to decide what the partition will be. With doors or with an arch, up to the very top like a wall or have decorative look. It will be just smooth or with shelves.

If the plans include a curvilinear design, then there are 2 ways to bend the gypsum board into the desired shape: wet, when you need to walk on the sheet and wet it, then lay it in the form and leave to dry. After 10 hours, the GCR will be in the form required.


The dry method is somewhat different: you should cut the edges of the sheet and bend it after installation. In this form, the edges are well puttied. Further, before installing the structure, measurements should be taken and all points and lines should be applied.

Marking

On the floor and on the wall to which the partition will adjoin, there should be no debris, dust, moisture, fungus. Marking starts from the floor. You should draw how the partition will stand, determine its width and length. Some rules to follow:

Guide profiles will be installed along the floor line. The future door is marked on this line. Doors should not be made close to the wall, you need to make space for any furniture that can become between the door and the wall. The doorway is also marked on the ceiling. Lines-borders of the future structure are drawn on the wall. They should be clear, straight and vertical, because they determine the future design. If there is a partition in place stretch ceiling, then it is not advisable to make the design to the very top. You need to leave space at the top.

Frame assembly

Now that the markup has been made, you can proceed to the phased assembly of the metal frame for the plasterboard partition.

If, then the depth of the niche will determine the width of the partition. Nevertheless, it should be done carefully, constantly checking each action with a square and a plumb line. In case of curvature, the profile should be reinstalled in a level position. Otherwise, this may lead to deformation of the finished structure.

Wiring

It is desirable that before conducting the wires, there was an electrical diagram, according to which it was possible to clearly and correctly bring the wires out. If backlighting is supposed, then after installing the frame from metal profiles, you should hold the wires. They must be in the corrugation and not touch the metal. The corrugation with wires is attached to the metal frame, in the places of future lamps the wires are exposed to a maximum of 15 cm. Do not forget about switches and sockets. With combined lighting, a separate switch is displayed for each lamp.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

After finishing the installation of the metal frame, you should do the cladding of the GKL. First you need to sheathe a flat wall. To cut drywall sheets into the desired pieces, you should mark the sheet with a ruler and a pencil. Then use a construction knife. GKL is easy to cut.

Fastening drywall sheets to the frame

First, 1 side of the sheet is cut out (cardboard is cut off), after light pressure, the gypsum is broken, and then the cardboard is cut off on the other side. The cut sheet does not have a chamfer, so you need to make it yourself. The planer is applied to the edge of the sheet and carried out with a little pressure. The chamfer angle should be 45 degrees.

Before fastening drywall sheets, holes should be made in them for sockets, switches and lamps. Holes are made of the same diameter as the embedded object.

In the case of the intended insulation of the plasterboard partition, after sheathing one side of the structure, it should be laid. After installation mineral wool or other material, the second half is sewn up with drywall.

The process of laying mineral wool in a partition

After sheathing the partition with drywall, you should install the door frame.

Finishing

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it is required to seal the joints. With the help of putty, the borders of the sheets are aligned.

Before the surface should be cleaned of dust, and rid the room of drafts. If wallpaper is provided, the surface is in two layers. We recommend watching a video tutorial for beginners on how to properly mount a drywall partition.

Design options for the finished partition

It can be varied, because the person who installs the partition with his own hands has already foreseen its color, backlight and what shelf it will stand on. The design of the partition may also depend on its shape:

The barrier can be:

Subject to all the rules and advice, anyone can easily change their premises, introduce unique elements of interior and design into the design of a house or apartment, which can emphasize the little things. With the help of lighting, you can make the evening rest relaxing and enjoyable.

V Lately Drywall has become a very popular building material. Most often it is used to create interior partitions, ceiling and wall cladding. But such structures cannot be created from one drywall without creating load-bearing structures assembled from special guide profiles. Consider step-by-step instructions on how to make drywall partitions with your own hands.

Consider the most popular types of drywall profiles.

These profiles differ, firstly, in their functional purpose:

• The guide profile (marked PN or UD) has a section in the form of a channel. It is used as the basis for fixing the rack profile. The width of the shelves of the guide profile is standard and is 40 mm, and the width of the backrest can be 50, 65, 75 or 100 mm. The profile is marked according to these parameters. For example, profile PN 40-75 has a shelf of 40 mm and a back of 75 mm.
• The rack profile (marked PS or CW) looks the same, but its shelves have small inward bends at the ends and have a slightly larger width - 50 mm. It is marked in the same way, i.e. profile PS 50-75 has a shelf of 50 mm and a back of 75 mm. In practice, the width of the backrest slightly differs from that indicated in the smaller direction. For example, for the PS 50-50 profile, it is about 48.5 mm.
• Ceiling (marked PPP or CD) and ceiling guide (marked PNP or UD) are used in the manufacture of a ceiling frame for plasterboard sheathing.
• To create even and beautiful outer corners, drywall corner profiles (marked with PU) are used. They protect the soft corners formed by drywall sheets from various damages.
• To create curvilinear structures, a special arched profile is used, consisting of a solid back and shelves, divided into separate sections, allowing it to be easily bent and give smooth rounded shapes.
• The beacon profile (marked PM) is designed to align the walls at a given level, it works as a stop that sets the desired level to the rule.

The length of finished profiles varies from 2750 to 6000 mm.

In addition, the profiles differ in the thickness of the metal from which they are made.

• The 0.4 mm thick profile is used only for light structures, such as wall or ceiling battens.
• A profile with a thickness of 0.45 mm has an average load-bearing capacity and is often used to create non-load-bearing partitions.
• A profile with a thickness of 0.55 mm has a good bearing capacity and is used to create interior partitions that will be loaded, for example, with shelves.

Drywall is also divided into several types:

• GKL - ordinary drywall for interior decoration, produced in gray with blue markings.
• GKLV - moisture resistant drywall for rooms with high humidity, produced in green with blue markings.
• GKLO - fire-resistant drywall for attics, switchboards, ventilation shafts, produced in gray with red markings.
• GKLVO - fire-resistant and moisture-resistant drywall, produced in green with a red marking.

The standard thickness of drywall is 6, 9, 12.5 or 15 mm. Small thicknesses are used to form curved surfaces, create arches. For wall cladding, only sheets of 12.5 or 15 mm are used.

Installation

Based on the above features of the materials, for the manufacture of the internal frame of the partition, we will use a profile 75 mm wide and 0.55 mm thick, for sheathing - gypsum plasterboard sheets 12.5 mm thick.

The main tools used in the work:

• screwdriver;
• level;
• square;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• stationery knife;
• metal scissors.

Guide profile installation

We begin work with the installation of a guide profile. We mark a line on the floor along which we will build a future partition. The line can be drawn using laser level or the profile itself.

When installing partitions, it is necessary to take into account that in the drawing they can have zero thickness, but in reality their thickness will be the sum of the width of the profile and the thickness of two sheets of drywall attached to it.

We fix the guide profile along the line marked on the floor. If the floor is wooden, use self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. If the floor is cement-concrete, then it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a drill and fix the dowels in them. We produce fasteners with an interval of 30-40 cm.

Using the guide profile as the bottom attachment point, install another guide profile on the wall. We make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, controlling the level or plumb. We fasten it to the walls in the same way as we fastened the lower guide profile. For walls made of gas silicate blocks, dowel-nails should be used, which are also installed at intervals of 30-40 cm.

We connect the profiles at the joints with short self-tapping screws (10-15 mm).

Similarly, we fix the guide profile on the ceiling, closing the contour of the future partition.

Installation of vertical rack profiles

To install a blank partition without a doorway, we start the installation of vertical rack profiles from one of the walls. The installation locations of the profiles are calculated depending on the width of the drywall sheets. Each sheet should have three vertical posts - left, center and right. For example, if the sheet width is 120 cm, then the racks must be placed in increments of 60 cm. The installation of vertical profiles must be carried out so that the measured 60 cm fall on the middle of the shelf when fastened. Then the joint of the drywall sheets will be exactly in this place and they can be easily fixed.

The length of the rack profile should be 0.5-1 cm less height premises. With a possible shrinkage of the room, this distance will allow the structure to “settle”.

When connecting the profiles, we screw the screws first closer to the back, and then closer to the edge. If you try to do the opposite, then there is a high risk of bending the shelf.

Installation of horizontal cross profiles

Short pieces are cut from the profile, which are installed between adjacent vertical posts, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure. The length of these segments is chosen such that they can be securely fastened to the rack profiles with short self-tapping screws.

Horizontal profiles are also placed in increments depending on the length of the drywall sheets, but not less than 40 cm. The edges of the sheets should fall into the middle of these profiles. In addition, horizontal profiles must be provided in places where shelves, hooks, etc. are planned to be placed. Wooden bars should be inserted into these profiles, to which the load will be attached. The size of the bars should be such that they fit snugly into the horizontal profile without distorting its shape. We attach such profiles with mortgages to vertical posts with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

When fixing horizontal profiles, it is necessary to control the absence of distortions from the horizontal level along its axis with a level or a carpenter's square.

Placement of electrical wiring

When the frame is fully assembled, electrical wiring is placed inside it. In the rack profiles for these purposes, special holes are provided through which the wires are passed.

Electrical wiring is placed inside the partitions in non-combustible insulation. It is recommended to check its serviceability before starting finishing works.

Drywall fixing

When the partition is fully mounted, it is the turn of drywall. Where the width and height of the partition allows, we place the sheets as a whole, in other places they will have to be cut.

Drywall is best cut with a drywall cutter or a large utility knife. To do this, having marked the necessary shape, the knife is repeatedly drawn along the cut line, not trying to cut through it immediately, but gradually delving into it. There are more fast way cutting drywall, suitable only for straight lines. We cut along the markup one of the sides of the sheet, turn it over and bend it towards ourselves along the incised line. In this case, the gypsum breaks exactly along the intended line and only the cardboard on one side remains uncut. We cut this cardboard - the part is ready.

On the cut edges of drywall, for the convenience of finishing work, a chamfer is formed with a planer with an inclined blade. If there is no planer, then a regular knife will do.

During the installation of drywall sheets, we provide a small gap between them and the floor using stands 3-5 mm thick.

Next, we fasten the sheet to the guides and vertical posts in increments of 15-20 cm. The self-tapping screws must be recessed 1 mm into the surface of the sheet. Each installed sheet is checked for horizontal level. An additional reference point in this case are vertical rack profiles.

Partition with a door

When installing a partition with a doorway, we begin the installation of vertical rack profiles not from the wall, but from this opening. In the guide profile on the floor, we provide a gap at the site of the future opening. We install the rack profile in the guides so that the width of the doorway is the same at the top and bottom.

When calculating the width of the opening, remember that it will contain not only the door leaf, but also the door frame. Its thickness must also be taken into account.

To increase the strength of the future doorway, it is necessary to use dry wooden bars inserted inside the profile. To fasten the rack profile with a bar to the guide, we use self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

The transverse profile limiting the doorway from above is also strengthened wooden block. The length of this length of the bar should be equal to the width of the doorway. After laying the bar, the transverse profile is fixed on the rack profiles with self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

We connect the bars located in the racks with a bar embedded in the transverse profile using self-tapping screws or nails 120-150 mm long, forming a solid structure for future fastening of the door frame.

Having installed the profiles around the doorway, we mount the remaining rack profiles along the entire length of the partition, also starting from the doorway in accordance with the width of the drywall sheets, as described earlier.

Sound insulation of partitions

We perform soundproofing of partitions using sheets of mineral wool or any other insulation, which is cut and placed in the formed cells between the profiles. The thickness of the insulation is chosen equal to the width of the guide profiles, in our case - 75 mm.

When installing drywall, make sure that whole sheets are installed from the middle to the edges. In this case, the trimmings will be closer to the wall, in less noticeable places.

After installing the soundproofing, we fix the drywall on the back side, closing our partition. We close the cracks formed between the wall and the profile mounting foam. This will improve sound insulation.

In order for the built partition to become suitable for final finishing, its surface must be puttied. The putty will hide the joints of the sheets and the caps of the screws, forming a flat surface.

This sheet material is currently the most popular for facing internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Room layout

The first step before starting construction works, is the layout of the room. If a decision is made to perform the installation of drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and maximize the effective cutting of material, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the premises is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then cutting the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to a deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the crate and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the GKL is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within the normal range. It is widely used because of the convenience in operation, good machinability, light weight and economy;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and others non-residential premises. Can be used near heating appliances, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant drywall, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, bathrooms and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
• fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

According to the purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of the fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
• wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Drywall tool

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easy to process a simple tool. In this case, you can use the following tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• electric jigsaw - sawing parts of complex shape according to the markup;
• construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
• construction plumb line - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpentry level - the same;
• electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing drywall parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• paint brush - for applying a primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• nozzle on a drill for stirring dry mixtures;
• sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
• mixing container.

This is the main set of tools with which alignment, priming, and decorative trim drywall walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty - repair and preparation of the surface of gypsum boards for the application of the main leveling layer;
• tape - fiberglass sickle;
• drywall fasteners - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under sheets of drywall during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL various sizes, including 6.5 mm thick - for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for flooring with a dry screed.

Assembling a wall from plasterboard

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of each part, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire treatment, especially if hidden wiring will be laid inside the frame, which most often happens. In addition to working off wood, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material on the basis of straightness and absence of helical deformations;
• change in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, resulting in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also a large number time.

All these shortcomings are devoid of metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several of their types are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, referred to as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions of 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of the profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

As auxiliary parts, U-shaped straight hangers are produced for connecting ceiling and CD profiles.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

The metal profile frame for the wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The installation of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, while using profiles UW guides and rack CW.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are a multiple of 600 mm, so the racks are set, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame, you need to stretch the vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film with a thickness of about 200 microns is used. It is pulled over the frame and fixed with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to fix a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
• in a similar way, install the remaining parts of the wall sheathing on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which simultaneously acts as a soundproof device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose, various materials are used, both slab (min-plate) and rolled, such as isover, an insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a three-dimensional frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing device will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, acting in the same way as for the first side;
• drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out with a step of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting of galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a broom saw. The use of a manual grinder burns out the protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end face must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Alignment of walls with drywall

Often, during construction or repair, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using GKL than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and it remains only to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coating.

There is a way to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you need to carefully remove all protrusions that may interfere with this. Installation technology can be as follows:

• attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill mounting holes. At the same time, on base surface traces of the drill will remain, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and drill holes for installing plastic inserts using these marks;
• apply a cement or gypsum-based adhesive to the wall, level with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to the wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating elements.

Surface putty

For the final preparation of the plane of the walls for the finishing coating, its finishing with putty is used. It is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle;
• applying the primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with the finishing composition of the putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can handle this task on their own. It is only necessary to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited experts will perform this work at a price of 600 to 800 rubles per square meter. However, in any case - good luck to you!

Even a non-professional can make partitions from drywall with their own hands. It can be raised in the shortest possible time and with minimal cost. Drywall partitions do not have to be only square or rectangular: they can be semicircular, radius or arched.

Required Materials

For work you will need:
1. Guide (PN) and rack (PS) profiles to create a frame. They should be equal in width: the rack profile should easily fit into the groove of the guide.
2. Building level.
3. Square.
4. Roulette.
5. Plumb.
6. Drywall. Since the partition is sheathed on both sides, it will need 2 times the required area.
7. Soundproof materials: mineral wool, polystyrene, etc.
8. Fasteners: dowels and self-tapping screws.
9. Screwdriver.
10. Metal shears for cutting aluminum rails.
11. Sharp knife for cutting drywall.

Guide and rack profiles

Frame installation

1. On the floor, with the help of a square and a tape measure, the place where the partition will be mounted is marked. You can transfer this line to the ceiling using a plumb line. The partition wall must be installed exactly at an angle of 90° to the walls.

Markup transfer

2. It is fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowel-nails guide profile(it is marked with the letters UW). For the construction of a thin partition, a width of 50 mm is sufficient. When laying soundproof materials inside the partition, the UW100 profile should be used, where 100 is the width in millimeters.

Fixing the profile to the ceiling

Important! In the places where the profiles adjoin the wall or ceiling, it is necessary to lay sealing tape. It will not only dampen sounds, but also reduce the risk of cracks. The polyethylene foam tape is attached to the profiles with an adhesive side.

Attaching the sealing self-adhesive tape

3. Rack profile installed in the grooves of the guide in increments of 60 cm. This is done using metal screws. In this case, the racks should be positioned so that the edges of the drywall sheets fall right on the center of the profile. The extreme racks are fixed first.

Post profile fixing

4. If necessary, inside the partition can be laid wiring. It is laid at the frame assembly stage horizontally in a special non-combustible corrugation. Wiring is mounted in special technological holes in the profile.

Wiring

Door opening device

1. In the intended place along the width of the opening, they are vertically mounted two rack profiles. The third profile is attached from above. We will talk about how to equip an arched opening or an opening of any arbitrary curvilinear shape below.

2. You can strengthen the doorway with a wooden beam or two profiles connected to each other.

To strengthen the doorway, you can connect the rack and guide profiles

Drywall fixing

1. The partition is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.

2. Its sheets are attached to the frame with step 25 cm so that their edges are exactly in the center of the rack profile. At the same time, the head of the metal screw should be slightly buried in the sheet so that it can be further hidden under the putty.

3. Do not screw in the screws at the corners of the sheet - it will break. For fastening, step back from the edge by 5 cm.

Drywall fixing

4. Drywall mounted randomly (staggered) so that the joints of the sheets fall on the center of the sheet of the previous row.

Sheet stacking order

5. If sound insulation is required, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or any other similar material is laid between the profile racks. It is mounted after one of the sides is already sheathed with drywall.

The location of the sound insulation layer

Important! In the bathroom, partitions made of this material should not be erected. Even moisture-resistant drywall can swell and lose shape over time when exposed to moisture.

cutting drywall

1. The place of the cut is marked on the sheet with a pencil. A trace of ball paste or a felt-tip pen can be visible through the putty, so you should not use them.

2. Drywall consists of three layers: two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core. Initially followed by a sharp knife cut through one side of the cardboard and plaster core. To do this, the sheet is laid on a flat surface, a metal ruler is applied to the cut line, and an incision is made along it. To cut the core, a knife is drawn along the cut line several times.

Cutting the first layer of cardboard

3. Then you should bend the cut and break the gypsum core, lightly tapping along the cut line.

In order to break off the core, the sheet is slightly bent

Cutting through the second layer of cardboard

5. To remove defects, the cut point is processed sandpaper or rasp.

Cut edge processing

Important! Sheets that will be joined at an angle should have a 45° chamfer. You can make it with a regular knife.

putty

1. The joints of the sheets and the recesses of the self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum, polymer or cement putty. If the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw during puttying, it should be deepened into the sheet a little deeper.

Plasterboard putty

2. To strengthen at the joints of the sheets, it is laid reinforcing self-adhesive mesh. Before laying it, the seam should be filled with putty, and only then the mesh should be glued. The outer corners are trimmed profile corners or corners with reinforcing mesh.

3. If a plasterboard wall will be wallpapered or tiled, it is not necessary to use a reinforcing mesh. It is required only when preparing walls for plastering or painting.

Laying at the seams of the reinforcing mesh

Drywall bending

When arranging semicircular, radius or arched partitions, drywall must be bent. This can be done in two ways: dry and wet.

1. When dry bending vertical cuts are made on one side of the sheet. You can make them quickly with the help of a grinder. Since this produces a lot of gypsum dust, work is best done outdoors.

2. Bending is performed across the fibers, that is, the sheets are bent by lenght.

Dry bending

Advice. If the bending radius is not too large, cuts can not be made, but the sheet can be carefully bent already in the process of attaching it to the frame.

3. wet bending. In order for moisture to penetrate deep into the sheet, it should be rolled before wetting needle roller.

roller rolling

5. The wet drywall sheet is laid to dry on the prepared template of the desired shape and securely fixed.

wet bending

Important! For bending, you should purchase arched drywall, which has a smaller thickness.

Profile bending

For the installation of curved structures, you can purchase arched profile or make it yourself. To do this, on both sides are made cuts every 5-15 cm[b]. The frequency of their location depends on the angle of the bend: the larger it is, the more often notches should be applied. To make the transition smooth, their frequency must be the same.

arched profile

You can make an arched profile yourself using cuts

Arch profile fixing

Video: DIY drywall partitions

To make the room unique and original, designers use room zoning methods. One such method is room dividers. There are many types of partitions ( brick, wood, glass etc.), but the most optimal choice is a plasterboard partition. It is lightweight, durable, does not take up much space, and most importantly, you can build it yourself. Let's learn how to make a drywall partition with your own hands - step-by-step instruction this process will make it easier for you.

Drywall partition in the interior of the house

During the construction of a house, most often internal partitions are not provided, but only bearing walls. This is done so that the owners themselves decide what size they want the rooms, where to place the partitions. For the implementation of various ideas, you can use a material such as drywall. It is not heavy, easily bends and will help fulfill any designer's fantasy.

Plasterboard partitions can be used to zone the space, beat furniture, a television area or an aquarium, create beautiful, niches and just a beautiful decorative partition. With it, you can create beautiful curly elements that will move from the partition to the ceiling or adjacent walls, make interesting lighting (all cables will be securely hidden inside the structure), or create niches for storing books, trinkets and paintings beloved by the heart. It all depends on the flight of the imagination of the owner of the room. And to bring this beauty to life will help such a wonderful material as drywall.

Note: The main advantage of such structures is easy dismantling. For example, during changes in life, it is easy to remove such a partition during repairs and make a new one in another place, or simply expand the space in the room.

How to make a drywall partition with your own hands? Step-by-step instruction.

It is not difficult to make a drywall partition on your own. Let's see how to do it. To carry out the work you will need:

1. Screwdriver and perforator.
2. Guide and rack profile.
3. Self-tapping screws and dowels.
4. Plumb, level or laser level.
5. Drywall.
6. Roulette and marker.
7. Construction knife.
8. Metal scissors.
9. Hammer.
10. Reinforcing tape.
11. Primer, putty and spatula.

In addition, if switches or lighting are provided in the partition, then you will need:

• cables;
• sockets;
• switches and lamps.

To begin with, we select a place for the future structure and, using the level, draw the exact location of the guide profiles along the perimeter of the partition.

Tip: For more accurate marking, it is better to use a laser level. But since this is an expensive thing, it can be rented from the relevant organizations.

At the next stage, we measure the desired size of the profiles and cut it off. You can start installation. We apply the profile to the wall at the mark and drill holes for the dowels with a puncher. The distance between the holes is 30 - 40 cm. In this way, the perimeter of the partition is mounted.

Next, rack profiles are mounted. We measure the height of the room using a tape measure or other measuring devices and cut the profile 10 mm less. First, profiles are installed at the location of the opening. The horizontal jumper is cut to the desired size and fixed with self-tapping screws on the profiles installed in the place of the doorway.

Tip: If you plan to install the door in the opening, the profiles should be reinforced with wooden beam inserted in the middle.

After that, the remaining profiles are placed at a distance of 60 cm or at the rate of 3 profiles per 1 sheet of drywall.

Rack profiles are attached to the rails with self-tapping screws. Now you can mount drywall sheets. To do this, the size of the sheet in height must be 10 mm less than the room. If the sheet is larger than the desired size, it can be cut with a construction knife.

On the cut edge, we make a chamfer at an angle of 300 for convenient filling of the wall. Drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, first to the middle profile, and then to the extreme ones. The distance between the screws is 25 - 30 cm.

After sheathing one side of the partition, we lay the cables for future wiring through the holes in the profiles. Now you can lay soundproofing material and sew the structure on the other side. At the end of the drywall fastening, the joints and screw locations should be treated with a primer. Next, we apply a putty mass to the joints, glue the reinforcing tape and putty again. To install lamps or switches, we make holes with a cutter. The partition is ready. For a more aesthetic appearance of the partition, the entire surface of the drywall should be puttied.

You can find out detailed information on the installation of a drywall partition from the video:

Where would a plasterboard partition be appropriate?

As you know, a partition is a lightweight version of a wall, the main function of which is the division of space. But there are also partitions that serve as a decorative element in the room and are an ornament. For example, a drywall partition will fit perfectly in the bedroom for allocation of dressing area or emphasize sleeping area in a studio apartment. She can serve in one-room apartment for visual zoning and dividing a room into several separate rooms. Various communications can be hidden in its cavity(cables, pipes, installations for hanging toilet bowls).

Also possible beat the aquarium, which will be visible from two rooms or television zone. With a partition, you can hide built-in furniture and give the room lightness and space. A highlight openings with arched structures now available to everyone, so these building materials are not expensive. Can make a partition with shelves for books and other little things needed in the household. And decorative lighting will give the room lightness and airiness.

Do not dwell on the proposed options, any idea you embodied will give the house comfort and individuality.

Photo of interior partitions

As you can see in the photos of interior partitions presented on various sites on the Internet, everything that was described earlier is a small part of what can be done with drywall partitions. Such structures can be presented in various architectural styles and directions in design. Below are photos of some original ideas drywall partitions.