Blind area than to cover. Five common mistakes when constructing a blind area: what professionals do not recommend doing

The blind area protects the foundation from excessive moisture during precipitation. Excess moisture worsens the microclimate in the house, shortens the service life of structures and provokes the building to sink into the ground. In early autumn, it's time to get ready for the rainy season and make a blind area or fix an old one.

Pros and cons of concrete blind area

Concrete blind area is the most common solution in the private sector. Its main plus is its ease of creation. No need to buy special materials and invent something.

Experienced developers usually order concrete for foundations and ceilings with a small margin "for shrinkage", so that there will probably be enough. And if the supplier does not cheat with the volume, then the leftovers are used for the blind area (you should prudently expose the formwork).

The new concrete blind area looks solid and gives the structure to the not yet landscaped area neat and finished look.

The problem with the concrete blind area is that after a year or two, it will surely begin to crack. Due to thermal deformations, a closed loop made of inelastic material simply cannot remain intact.

Concrete blind area does not always fit into landscape design yard. It looks foreign if the paths and platforms are not made of concrete. But concrete is not the best material for sidewalks. Sand and cement dust are constantly crumbled out of it, which will enter the house.

What to do with the concrete blind area?

Old or new concrete blind area should not be regarded as a finished structure. Consider it a solid concrete preparation for a reliable and beautiful blind area.

It is advisable to finish the blind area before finishing the basement. You can read more about this.

A waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the concrete. The choice of material depends solely on the budget. It can be the most inexpensive polyethylene or high quality PVC film for swimming pools. Any waterproofing will be better than no waterproofing.

The edge of the waterproofing layer should be run onto the plinth, under finishing... Do not forget about the slope: the water must drain from the foundation.

The finishing coating of the concrete blind area can be paving slabs or natural stone. The leveling bed under it can be made from stone screening, sand or a mixture of sand and cement (approximately 1:10).

Pay attention to this moment. If you consciously and purposefully pour a concrete base under the blind area (for example, to strengthen a crumbling foundation in an old house), then do not make it monolithic around the entire house. Break the concrete into “slabs” no more than two meters long. Fill the gaps between the “slabs” with an elastic putty, for example, remnants of tile glue. This design will avoid cracks.


Blind areas without concrete

It is right, easy and simple to make a blind area around the house without concrete. Consider three options:

1. A blind area of ​​paving slabs or plasticky stones without a concrete base. Waterproofing is laid directly on the ground (or sand bed), and on top of it - the topcoat. This is the best option for a new home.


2. If the yard is asphalted, then it is reasonable to make the blind area from asphalt on a gravel base.

3. "Soft blind area" of gravel. Strong waterproofing is laid on the ground with a slope from the house. On top of the waterproofing, gravel is poured in a layer of 3-4 centimeters (preferably rounded pebbles). Mineral backfill protects the waterproofing from wind and solar ultraviolet radiation. You should not walk on a soft blind area, because the sharp edges of the stones can damage the waterproofing. However, such a simple and inexpensive blind area copes with its direct task. It is suitable for country houses or outbuildings.


Drainage, drainage and insulation

When planning a blind area, do not forget about storm water inlets. They are installed under the downpipes. First, test the operation of the drainage system, and only then finish the construction of the blind area in the area of ​​storm water inlets. This will allow you to correctly determine the size of the storm water inlet and its position on the blind area.

The photo below shows a not very good example.


The monolithic concrete base is made with a slope towards the storm water inlet, at the same time the "basket" rises above the concrete. That is, the puddle in this place is programmed initially. A monolithic concrete base will surely crack over time in bottleneck, directly above the pipe. So the water from the puddle will go under the blind area.

Please note that there is no bottom bend on the downspout. Water with a high pressure will beat against the grate of the storm water inlet and spray around.

Something else can be fixed. Add mortar around the gully. In this place, use a double layer of waterproofing between the concrete base of the blind area and the topcoat (when the concrete cracks, waterproofing will save the situation for a while). Put the elbow on the downpipe and bring the edge of the pipe as close as possible to the grating of the rain basket.

In our climate, there is usually no point in insulating the blind area. But in some cases this may be required. When a small light house stands somewhere in the lowlands, on soils saturated with moisture. Such a structure runs the risk of suffering from frost heaving. In winter, it will be pushed out of the ground, and in summer, uneven subsidence will become noticeable. Cracks in the foundation and walls are secured.

A wide insulated blind area will help stabilize the situation. Extruded foam (EPS) should be used as the bottom layer. Do not forget to insulate the underground soil as well, if it is ventilated and unheated.

Sergey Sysoev

The finishing stage of building a house is construction of a blind area, tightly encircling the base.

This necessary measure, since the main purpose of the blind area is to protect against the penetration of melt and rainwater, which can cause the appearance of a fungus and render it unusable.

Material concrete, asphalt slabs and bricks can also be used for protective cover of the foundation.

Experienced builders note that the optimal basis for the blind area in terms of functionality, cost and labor intensity is concrete... A blind area made of concrete can be done independently, if you follow the technology of work and choose the right grade of concrete.

Benefits of a concrete blind area

Blind area around the house, made of concrete mix has considerable Benefits:

  • correctly selected concrete mix after solidification, it is transformed into a monolith that does not allow moisture to pass through;
  • concrete is durable, during long-term operation, repeated repairs are possible (sealing small chips or cracks);
  • concrete blind area can look very decorative if the top layer of concrete is mixed with a coloring pigment or pebbles, fragments of tiles or natural stone are laid on a fresh mixture;
  • concrete placement technology is quite available to home craftsmen;
  • concrete blind area is quite economical in comparison with the use of natural stone.

Concrete blind area


A concrete block for an object erected on normal soils includes several types of materials laid in layers on the prepared surface.

The basis is compacted clay and sand pillow required as a moisture blocking layer. Further fits crushed stone, reinforcing lattice and concrete layer... If the house is built on heaving soils, winter frosts cause their crystallization and deformation, which increases the pressure on the foundation and can destroy the blind area.

To exclude a similar effect of heaving soil, an insulating layer is added to the main layers of the concrete blind area, for the device of which they use sprayed polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam (for detailed information on the insulated blind area, read.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area

The main qualities adjoining blind areas are considered resistance to temperature and humidity extremes, high strength and maximum water resistance.

Besides correct styling the layers that make up the blind area, is of great importance right choice concrete grade... So that the waterproofing finish around the basement does not crack in the first winter, but lasts for many years, concrete of the M200 grade and higher should be used.

Brand М200 It is considered the most sought-after construction concrete used for laying blind areas and garden paths, leveling screeds and molding stairs.

M300 concrete possesses the best characteristics, but its cost is significantly higher, so you can choose a compromise option - brand М250, combining affordable cost and optimal quality for a blind area.

Preparation of concrete for the blind area


If the purchase of ready-made factory concrete is not available for financial or organizational and technical reasons, you can prepare the desired mixture yourself from the materials remaining from the main construction.

About by 70% concrete consists of a filler, which is used as crushed stone and sand, broken bricks and expanded clay, as well as dump slag.

The astringent component is cement(it is best to take brands from M300 to M500), which should be purchased from authorized dealers or directly from the manufacturer in order to avoid supplying low-quality products.

Useful advice: When mixing concrete, water must be added at regular intervals, waiting for the next portion to be completely absorbed by the cement. In this case, there will be no voids in the concrete. Approximately 0.65 parts of water are added to one part of the cement.


To ensure sufficient strength of the concrete blind area, it is advisable to take crushed stone from river gravel or dumps of rocks of the fraction from 5 to 20 mm.

Sand is sieved before mixing to separate silt and clay particles and limestone inclusions. The procedure for obtaining high-quality concrete is as follows: cement is poured into a container with a small volume of water until a homogeneous mass is formed, gradually adding water, then rubble and then sand are poured. The field of each component of the mixture must be mixed.

Dimensions of the blind area

Calculation of the size of the blind area carried out relative to the departure of the roof beyond the plane of the wall, adding at least 20 cm to that value.

The best option for the width of the blind area is considered one meter, which provides sufficient protection for the foundation and at the same time can allow the use of the blind area as a bypass path around the house.

The thickness of the concrete layer is not less than 20 cm at basement wall... To drain water, a slight slope is formed in 3-5 degrees.

Stages of work


The construction of the blind area is carried out in several successive stages:

  • markup future blind area;
  • digging according to the markings to a depth of 25 cm;
  • the part of the foundation or basement wall that has been opened after excavation, carefully coated with bitumen or laid with a pair of layers of film waterproofing;
  • between the basement and the future blind area is performed expansion joint, eliminating excessive pressure on the structure during soil subsidence. Suture gap ( up to 1.5 cm) is filled with double-folded roofing material or sand and gravel mixture;
  • shaping non-removable formwork from edged boards(board thickness 20 mm);
  • stacking clay pillow followed by ramming;
  • laying the sand layer(about 10 cm) by spilling it with water to seal;
  • backfilling of gravel layer(about 7 cm) and its compaction;
  • laying reinforcing mesh(pitch of bar overlaps 10 cm);
  • preparation of concrete mix and pouring it into the formwork to the level of the laid beacons;
  • concrete compaction by bayonetting with a thick metal bar (frequent "piercing" of the concrete layer with a bar with vibrating swaying for better distribution of gravel pieces);
  • concrete pad top leveled and trimmed;
  • it is good to lay along the outer perimeter of the blind area drainage gutter ensuring effective drainage of water flowing from the roof;
  • to ensure the normal maturation of concrete, the blind area is covered film or wet cloth... After about a week, the blind area is completely ready.

Boards with inside lay with a film. To make it more convenient to form a slope on the blind area, they are attached to the formwork boards transverse beacons with the required degree of slope (on all corner parts and somewhat along the areas adjacent to the facade).

Protection of the concrete blind area from destruction


To keep the concrete blind area intact for a long time, use different ways her protection from carbon dioxide and other types of corrosion:

  • spend hydrophobic priming of concrete surfaces followed by coating with polymer coloring or transparent mixtures based on epoxy resins, as well as moisture resistant enamels;
  • on hardened concrete, you can tightly lay or large pebbles;
  • processing of the blind area crystallizing compositions, which close the pores of the concrete and prevent deep moisture.

For more information about the device of a concrete blind area, see in this video:













The blind area around the house is a wide "tape" with a hard or loose covering. But this is only the visible part of the rather complex design... Many people perceive the blind area of ​​the house as a kind of path along the wall, and although such use may be included in the list of functions, the main purpose of the structure is different.

Blind area around the house from paving slabs Source udachnyi.ru

Why do you need a blind area

Among the regulatory documents, there is no separate standard, SNiP or set of rules on how to make a blind area around the house correctly. There are several documents that define its purpose, requirements for the width and angle of the slope, interaction with other elements of the bend atmospheric waters from the site on which the building stands.

According to the regulations, there must be a waterproof blind area around the building, which is created as part of the mandatory waterproof measures against local soil soaking in the area of ​​the base of the house.

That is, it is about protecting the soil, not the foundation. To protect the materials of the base itself, waterproofing of the foundation is done, because in addition to atmospheric waters, there are also ground waters, which rise high in the rainy season and during snow melting (the so-called top water).

And the land must be protected from getting wet, because under the influence of moisture, many types of soils (clay, loam) lose some of their bearing properties and simply cannot withstand the design load from the building. To prevent soil erosion and arrange a blind area, which, however, also protects the foundation in parallel, removing part of the load from the waterproofing layer, which protects the concrete base of the house from getting wet.

In addition, the blind area around the house is an element of the architectural appearance of the building and part of the landscape of the site. There are many ready-made design solutions, allowing you to mask the blind area, and when using a hard surface, use it as a path.

A beautiful blind area, turning into a walkway, as part of landscape design Source stroitambov.ru

Blind area requirement

In none normative document there are no requirements that would associate the size of the blind area with the overhang of the roof. Moreover, there are no requirements for exceeding the width of the blind area by 20-30 cm in relation to the projection of the eaves removal. When building a blind area around a house made of concrete with your own hands, you do not need to be guided by these numbers.

The regulations provide only two minimum widths. And they depend on the soil:

    on sandy ones - from 70 cm;

    on clayey - from 100 cm.

This is exactly what it is indicated in the manual for the schemes operational control construction for supervision services.

With an unorganized drain, the side overhangs of the roof of houses up to two floors should be less than 60 cm.If the house is on sandy soil, then the difference in the width of the blind area and the size of the roof overhang may be equal to 10 cm, and not contradict the requirements of the standards.

That is, it turns out that the parameter 20-30 cm is just a statement of the real ratio of the two sizes for most cases. But not for everyone.

Video description

Clearly about the requirements for the blind area of ​​the house in the video:

If the soils are subsiding, depending on their type, the standards impose other requirements for the width:

    Type I - more than 1.5 m;

    Type II - more than 2 m.

And in any case, the blind area should be 40 cm wider than the cavity of the pit.

The slope angle can be in the range of 1-10%, but in the case of subsiding soils, the minimum angle is 3 °, which in terms of conversion is 5.2%.

The rise of the outer edge of the blind area above the site should be more than 5 cm.

Varieties of blind area

Before you correctly make a blind area around the house with your own hands or order its construction, you need to decide on the variety. There are three topcoat options:

Hard cover. It is a monolithic tape made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In the first case, creating a blind area with your own hands, mandatory reinforcement is carried out; in the second, it is not required, due to the resistance of the asphalt concrete to bending loads.

The arrangement of the base and the filling of the blind area around the house is carried out using the same technology as for the paths, but taking into account the fulfillment of the mandatory requirement for a slope from the basement.

Protection against water is due to the waterproofness of both types of concrete. Therefore, it is important that there are no cracks or breaks in the coating on the surface. The second feature is that a gap is required between the blind area and the plinth to compensate for the thermal expansion of the monolithic coating.

Concrete blind area with expansion gap at the base, filled with sealant Source stroyobzor.info

Semi-rigid coating. They are made from paving slabs, clinker bricks or paving stones. The device and method of laying is carried out by analogy with sidewalks and platforms made of these materials with the obligatory creation of a waterproofing layer as part of the blind area:

    waterproof geomembrane, when laid on a dry sand-cement mixture;

    concrete monolithic base.

Semi-rigid clinker brick coating Source manesu.com

Soft cover. The classic option is the arrangement of the upper layer of a compacted layer of dense (waterproof) clay. Many people know how to make a blind area of ​​this type: it was done around before village houses, and even now such a solution is periodically used as an "economy option" around small country houses, but with top layer from decorative (colored) gravel. To improve waterproofing, a waterproof film can be placed between the clay and the rubble. You need to understand that the blind area is not just a decor, you should not save a lot on it.

Crushed stone as an economy option Source s-stroit.ru

Now gaining popularity the new kind soft blind area around the house based on a profiled membrane. The general order of work is as follows:

The membrane is laid in a trench with a depth of 25-30 cm.

The bottom of the trench is rammed with a slope from the foundation.

On top of the membrane, a layer of filtering geotextile is rolled out with an approach to the wall of the base of the house.

Then a drainage layer of rubble and sand is poured, and on top of it is a fertile soil, which is sown lawn grass or ornamental plants are planted.

Such a blind area is also called hidden. This is a beautiful solution, but with a significant drawback - it is not recommended to walk on a soft surface. However, you can always additionally organize a path.

Hidden blind area with ornamental plants Source pinterest.com

Common mistakes when creating a blind area

Errors can be at any stage. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly fill the blind area around the house. But even with the technology, you need to be careful.

For example, insufficiently compacted soil backfill results in “unplanned” shrinkage and destruction of the waterproofing layer or rigid surface. The same consequences can occur if, due to the negligence of the workers, construction waste gets into the backfill.

A transverse crack in the blind area as a result of an error Source stroimdom.com.ua

At the stage of compaction of the bottom of the "trough" it is necessary to observe the level of the bottom of the pit and its slope. This is one of important conditions how to make a blind area around the house. The unevenness of the bottom leads to an uneven thickness of the crushed stone layer, a difference in its bearing properties in different areas, which can be the reason for the appearance of cracks in concrete. And with the wrong slope of the trench profile during the rainy season or melting snow, the top water will literally drain to the foundation from the soil saturated with moisture.

Another mistake is the absence of an expansion joint between the concrete blind area and the plinth. At high temperature air, internal stress forces arise in the concrete near the wall, which lead to cracks. The same happens if transverse expansion joints are not laid or cut in the reinforced concrete blind area.

It is unacceptable to use sand containing clay and dirty water... This will degrade the quality of the concrete and reduce the lifespan of the blind area.

If a faucet for irrigation is provided in the basement of a private house, then a separate gutter must be laid under it. It is needed to drain water outside the blind area in case of leakage of stop valves or a leaky hose connection.

Video description

Another mistake when installing a blind area on a video:

The maximum slope of the blind area is 10%. And with an organized drainage of water from the roof, trays should be laid under the drainpipes with a slope of more than 15%. This regulatory requirement is sometimes ignored.

Determination of the thickness of the blind area

On the site of a private house, concrete, prefabricated semi-rigid or soft coating is used. The thickness of the semi-rigid coating is set by the material itself for the blind area around the house: clinker bricks, tiles or paving stones. But the size of the concrete pavement must be calculated. At least in order to calculate the volume of the solution and the depth of the trench for all layers.

Knowing the standard width of the blind area and the minimum level of elevation of the outer edge above the site, it is possible to calculate the only parameter that is not regulated by the standards - the thickness of the rigid coating, taking into account its slope.

The minimum thickness of reinforced concrete is about 70 mm - the thickness of two rods with wire harness plus the thickness of the concrete layer on all sides is more than 30 mm.

Video description

What are the features of a hard and thick blind area in the video:

This size must be multiplied by the slope, multiplied by the width of the tape, divided by 100. This will be the difference in height between the outer edge and the plinth. And now the difference in heights must be added to the thickness of the edge to obtain the thickness at the base.

If the thickness of the edge is 70 mm, the slope is 5%, the width of the blind area is 1000 mm, then the height of the covering at the base is 120 mm.

Concrete blind area manufacturing technology

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a blind area around the house looks like this:

    Preparing a trench ("trough") for a blind area. The full width is removed from the fertile layer (from 20 to 30 cm). Compacting the trench bottom and forming a slope. Particularly carefully ram the area near the foundation with backfilling, while adding local soil - the thickness of the compacted layer in this place is at least 15 cm.The depth of the trench should be sufficient for the underground part of the hard surface, the thickness of the pillow (minimum 10 cm, recommended 15 cm) and insulation for the blind area around the house on heaving soils. If the trench after excavation of fertile soil turned out to be deeper than the calculated one, then the difference is compensated by filling with compaction of either local soil or a layer of clay (the second option is preferable).

Trench for a blind area with a slope from the foundation Source stroidom-shop.ru

    Pillow. For weak soils, the creation of a crushed stone base is recommended as the bottom layer. First, crushed stone of the middle fraction (40-70 mm) is poured, leveled and tamped. Then - fine crushed stone (5-10 mm) to fill the voids of the previous layer. When compacting crushed stone, it is watered with water. Sand is poured next, which is also leveled, watered and tamped. It is the sand, according to the standards, that serves as the basis for the installation of the blind area. The level of crushed stone preparation should have a maximum deviation of 15 mm by 2 m, sand - 10 mm by 3 m.

    Waterproofing. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the sand. It does not serve to protect the soil, but protects the concrete from moisture loss during its maturation. In the regulations, this layer is called "separation". For this, a geomembrane or polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is used.

Video description

You can also use welded waterproofing - an example in the video:

    Warming. When creating a blind area on heaving soils, the structure is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. If two layers are laid, then the seams of the upper sheets are shifted relative to the seams of the lower ones.

    Formwork. It is made from edged board and bar. At the same time, laths are laid for transverse expansion joints. Usually, these slats are mounted at the design level of the surface of the blind area with a given slope angle, and concrete is poured along them, like beacons. The width of the lath is 20 mm, the height in the section is more than 25% of the thickness of the blind area. The approximate joint spacing is calculated by multiplying a factor of 25 by the thickness of the concrete at the base. Usually, for concrete pavements, expansion joints are combined with technological ones (one portion of pouring between the battens). The expansion joint at the base is formed from folded strips of roofing material with a total thickness of about 5 mm.

Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area around a house made of concrete Source fondeco.ru

    Reinforcement. The easiest way is to lay a road mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm and a bar diameter of 4 mm. Adjacent cards (stripes) are overlapped by one cell (or more) and tied with wire. The distance from the waterproofing or insulation is at least 30 mm. This size must be maintained in relation to all surfaces - front, along the edges of the edge and relative to the base.

    Concreting. M200 concrete is used. After pouring, within four hours, the concrete must be covered. And for 14 days - moisturize.

    Protection against destruction. To improve the wear resistance and strength of the surface, iron is carried out. There are two types: dry - after pouring, wet - simultaneously with filling the expansion joints with a sealant. After removing the slats (14 days after pouring the concrete), the joints are filled with bitumen mastic with the addition of a mineral filler.

    Note. As a surface enhancement and an attractive decorative look, stamped concrete technology can be used.

Stamped concrete from blind area to walkway Source vest-beton.ru

If the blind area requires repair

If the concrete began to collapse, then, depending on the degree of damage, the restoration technology has the following form:

    with a local nature (up to 30% of the surface) and narrow cracks - they are poured with cement paste (proportions of cement and water 1: 1);

    for local repairs and wide cracks - they are embroidered, the visible reinforcement is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, and they are sealed with a repair polymer-cement mortar;

    in case of crumbling and delamination - the weak areas are cleaned and the screed layer is poured from a cement-sand mortar around the entire perimeter of the house (with the preliminary installation of a new border and the installation of a reinforcing frame).

When performing each type of repair, the surface of the blind area must be cleaned of dirt and debris, treated with a deep penetration primer.

As a result. It is important to remember that the blind area is only part of the water protection measures. The most effective blind area in conjunction with storm sewer, when water is collected in special receivers and pipes are discharged away from the foundation.

Storm drainage system Source bloknot-voronezh.ru

As a result, the foundation will receive reliable protection not only from rain or melted snow, but also from groundwater.

And we hope you received answers to your main questions - how to make a blind area around the house and who to entrust it.

Blind area around residential buildings, as a rule, it is made of concrete or sand-cement mortars. At the same time, among private developers, there is a widespread misconception that the destruction of the concrete blind area occurs only through the fault of any mechanical loads. In fact, the main reason is carbon dioxide corrosion of concrete - the formation of dusty microcalcite from free lime and carbon dioxide in the air. There are other types of corrosion, for example, sulfate, as well as chloride and others. As a result of corrosive processes, not only dust is formed, but also the strength and resistance of the face layer of concrete to abrasion are significantly reduced. It should be noted that a simple increase in the grade strength of concrete does not lead to the production of durable concrete structures.
In the normative document SNiP 2.03.11-85 "Protection building structures from corrosion ”it is indicated that in the design of concrete structures, protection of concrete and reinforced concrete structures from corrosion should be provided. Therefore, the owners of private properties often face the need to protect themselves from the effects of atmospheric precipitation. concrete surfaces, including blind areas. For this purpose, along with other types of protective measures, paint and varnish coatings can be used. However, it should be borne in mind that with periodic moistening with water or precipitation, it is necessary to hydrophobize concrete surfaces with special compounds as a primer layer for paint and varnish coatings (clause 2.31, SNiP 2.03.11-85).
To protect the concrete are used different types polymer coatings: from traditional pentaphthalic and vinyl chloride paints and enamels to high-quality epoxy and polyurethane protective and decorative compounds. Polymer coatings are distinguished not only by their long service life, but also by their high resistance to chemically active substances.
To create a protective coating, you can use the enamel "POLAK EP-52PA", which is a modified epoxy composition. This enamel has an adhesive-inhibiting effect, which significantly increases the protective properties and increases the durability of the coating.
This coating has good moisture resistance, weather resistance, UV resistance, and chemical resistance. High and stable adhesion of the coating to concrete and other materials is maintained for a long period of time - tens of years. In addition, a color scheme for the blind area is possible.
The most technologically advanced and versatile for the protection of concrete surfaces are also impregnations based on polyurethane resins. These substances have a high penetrating ability, perfectly bind concrete, quickly cure (polymerize), chemically resistant, do not corrode the concrete base, have a very high impact strength and elasticity.
On the Russian market polyurethane compositions of such western companies as TIKKURILA, NOVILUX and others are well represented. It should be noted that the range of inexpensive and high-quality materials is very narrow. These include the products of the domestic manufacturer of polymer coatings - the TEOCHIM company, among whose products there are moisture-curing compositions of the ELAKOR-PU type.
The protective composition "ELAKOR-PU" based on polyurethane is designed to prevent dusting and destruction of concrete bases. The standard applied coating penetrates 3-5 mm deep into the concrete, forming on the surface protective film thickness 150-200 microns. Such impregnation strengthens and hardens the concrete surface, creates a reliable waterproofing protection, blocks the pores and microdefects of the concrete structure, forming super-strong impermeable crystals in it. As a result, the upper protective layer is integral with the concrete base, which completely excludes the possibility of delamination.
"ELAKOR" strengthens concrete even grades M100 and less. After processing, the concrete surface does not slip, acquires increased resistance to shock loads and wear. The operating temperature of the coating is from -60 to + 100 ° C, and the service life is 10-15 years.
In addition, there is a possibility color scheme blind areas, anti-skid devices, etc. However, for the sake of fairness, it should be noted that over time, under the influence of ultraviolet light, the color seems to turn brown.

In addition to the protective and decorative finishing of concrete surfaces, you can use polymer paints, such as polyurethane enamel, acrylic paint or epoxy primer enamel. All these polymer coatings have their own advantages, including the possibility of applying without preliminary priming, for example, epoxy primer-enamel "AQUAPOLYMERDECOR", use at low temperatures - perchlorovinyl enamel "BETIL", the ability to apply on fresh concrete - water paint "AQUABETOL", weather resistance - acrylic paint "BETILAT", high chemical, - wear resistance - polyurethane enamel "POLYMERDECOR". In addition, the advantages of all polymer paints are impeccable quality, affordable cost and ease of application.
So polymer paint"BETYLAT" forms a durable vapor-permeable coating that is resistant to weathering. It can be used on concrete surfaces with light foot traffic. It is produced in two types: on acrylic and organosilicon bases.
Before painting, the surface must be free from dust and dirt and dried. Then before applying paint to improve adhesion and hardening of the surface, it is recommended to treat with "BETILAT-PRIMER" and "BETILATE-IMPREGNATION".

A concrete blind area protects the foundation from getting wet by rain and melt water, and the wall from ground moisture, so it is impossible to imagine the exterior of the house without it. As a rule, a blind area is a concrete rim around the house along the perimeter of the basement. In most cases it is left as it is, but some homeowners prefer aesthetics and practicality in everything and cover the structure with additional cladding materials.

Why cover the blind area

The choice of material depends on the desired effect. The coating can be waterproof (optional) or decorative.

Waterproofing of the blind area is adopted for additional protection of concrete from water, which means it prolongs the life of the laminated structure. For this, different methods are used:

  • staining,
  • penetrating waterproofing,
  • roll materials.

Also, the blind area is revetted to give it an aesthetic appearance. Often it becomes a path around the house, especially if the width of the tape is 0.7 meters or more. In this case, the finishing is done with tiles or covered with rubble. The combined version of the embankment with paving stones looks good.

Waterproofing

When installing the blind area, the internal waterproofing of the structure is carried out. Usually it is performed with rolls or coating materials and laid under the concrete with an approach to the wall in order to protect the load-bearing elements from getting wet. In addition, the concrete itself is not afraid of water.

However, secondary waterproofing will help extend the life of the concrete.

Dyeing

The easiest and most affordable way to protect the blind area is with its special compounds. Enamels are suitable for this:

  • polyurethane;
  • acrylic;
  • primer enamel.

These compounds form a waterproof film on the surface of the concrete stone and protect it from destruction for a long time - up to 5 years.

The advantage of using paints is the convenience of working with them - there is no need to prime the surface beforehand. Application is carried out on a dry surface with rollers or a brush in 1 or 2 coats. It is recommended to process not only the surface of the blind area itself - the base of the base should also be painted to a height of 10-20 cm.

It is worth noting: it is better not to expose the surface treated by painting to mechanical stress, it is not recommended to walk around the house - the protective layer wears out quickly.

Ironing

Iron waterproofing is an effective and durable way to protect concrete. Processing can be done in two ways:

  • Immediately fill the freshly laid concrete of the blind area with dry cement M300-M400 (the higher the binder grade, the stronger and more durable the coating). Further, the surface is rubbed and polished after hardening.
  • On the hardened concrete (2-3 weeks after laying), a greasy cement mortar and smoothed out completely.

The bottom line is the penetration of cement into the porous surface of the concrete base and its strengthening. In this way, floors are strengthened in parking lots and industrial hangars. The processed blind area can be loaded and walked on.

Penetrating waterproofing

Special solutions and dry mixes for concrete processing penetrate into its structure to different depths and fill the voids with crystals. As a result, an absolutely waterproof stone is formed through which water cannot be filtered. It is enough to cover the concrete once, the effect lasts for the entire service life of the structure without the need for additional processing.

It is necessary to apply drugs according to the instructions. Dry mixtures are diluted with water and applied to the surface with a brush or roller. Ready-made penetrating solutions are also rolled out with a long-haired roller. The crystallization process occurs naturally - the components of the preparation absorb moisture from the concrete and, expanding, fill the capillaries in the body of the stone.

Coating with roll materials

Bituminous rolls and coating materials are used extremely rarely as an independent protection of the blind area - yet their appearance is not aesthetically pleasing. Basically, they are laid for subsequent finishing or when processing the foundation cast-off of garages, industrial buildings and technical structures.

The coating and roll insulation are combined - the joints between individual sheets of roofing material and its analogs are treated with a liquid solution.

Lay the waterproofing overlap on the wall, fix the canvas with liquid mastic. It is important to seal the joint between the blind area and the wall with a special cord seal.

After laying, roofing materials should be covered with crushed stone, sand or tiled.

Tiled covering

If the width of the blind area allows you to organize a sidewalk path around the house, it is optimal to clad the concrete structure with paving stones or outdoor tiles. True, this should be foreseen in advance in order to deepen the casting itself to level the surface of the sidewalk and lawn. Consequently, the concrete layer will be less thin than in the option without cladding.

Any products are suitable for cladding:

  • Concrete paving slabs;
  • Porcelain stoneware;
  • Clinker paving stones.

At correct installation this finish additionally protects the blind area from mechanical stress and rainwater.

Along the perimeter of the cast-off along the width of the sidewalk, it is necessary to mount curbs that will hold the paving stones in place and also complete its appearance. The deepening is usually done below the tile level by 300-400 mm.

Tiles should not be pinned on the finished concrete screed. concrete mortar, and on the sand. This will help keep the main structure intact without overvoltage.

It's easy to do the work yourself:

  • By concrete base any type of waterproofing (penetrating, roll) should be carried out;
  • Next, a layer of dry sand with a thickness of at least 3-5 cm is laid and leveled;
  • Tiles are mounted. It is not difficult to lay it on the sand, it is easy to adjust the location of the fragments and the pattern;
  • Seams are rubbed with a cement-sand dry mixture.

As a result, the cladding is quite high - the thickness of the tiles is usually 3 or more centimeters plus a sand cushion. Correctly selected curbstone or a blind area that has been underestimated in advance at the base.

For convenience, sand can be replaced with a cement-sand dry or wet mixture in a ratio of 1: 1 or 1: 2.

In parallel with the laying of the tiles, it is necessary to install the gutters for water drainage. These can be concrete inserts for blind areas or separate metal or polymer systems.

After the completion of the work, the tiles must be poured from a hose or from a watering can so that the cement-sand mixture is compacted, the binder is activated and the hardening processes begin.

Conclusion

Waterproofing and blind area cladding will be an additional measure of protection for structural concrete. Staining is good in itself, will not stand out in any way appearance castoff ironing. Roofing felt protection should be used in combination with the tiling of the perimeter of the house, as well as the adhering coating.

If the owners of the house want to cover the blind area paving slabs, this must be planned in advance in order to correctly calculate the depth of the protective structure.

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