DIY floor screed: recommendations for beginners. Floor screed in an apartment: the technology of cement-sand screed How to make a rule for working with a screed

The floor screed in the apartment is a preparatory layer on which the final floor covering is laid. It happens, of course, that the screed itself is the finishing layer - for example, in a high-tech interior, the floor is sometimes made of polished concrete. In such a room, a concrete screed is arranged, followed by grinding and polishing.

But more often tiles, laminate, linoleum or floorboard... The screed itself is laid on top of the floor slabs, leveling the surface and hiding communications. Sometimes, if necessary, a layer of thermal insulation is laid under the screed and a warm floor is arranged.

Screed types

The following types of floor screed can be distinguished, depending on the technology of its installation:

traditional, or "wet" cement strainer floor;
semi-dry screed;
dry or loose screed.

Traditional screed, depending on the planned layer thickness, can be cement-sand or concrete, laid directly on the floor or on the layer insulating material.

Its advantages are:

the prevalence of technology, accordingly, it is easier to find a qualified contractor;
the layer thickness is easily varied;
it is relatively easy to get an even subfloor coverage;
can be performed over a layer of insulation or underfloor heating;
has the best strength and waterproofing properties among the listed types of screeds;
is the only possible type of screed for a damp room;
the materials used are on sale in any hardware store and are inexpensive.

The main disadvantage of the screed is that it is a so-called "wet" process. That is, firstly, this is a rather dirty work, and, secondly, the screed must dry for a sufficiently long time before it can be mounted on the finishing floor covering.

Semi-dry screed is designed to somewhat mitigate the listed disadvantages. However, it requires more qualified performers to complete it. The final quality of a semi-dry screed is much more dependent on careful adherence to the laying technology. And, finally, the strength and waterproofing properties of a semi-dry screed are lower than that of a traditional one.

A dry screed is indispensable in rooms where the floor needs to be soundproofed. By design, it is a classic "floating floor". This technology is also convenient in those rooms where it is necessary to perform a screed of great thickness, for example, in old houses where floors were made on logs lying on floor slabs during construction, and during operation the old floor was damaged and it is necessary to arrange a new floor with a total thickness 15 - 20 cm.

The advantages of a dry screed are:

clean and quick installation;
high level of thermal insulation and sound insulation;
low weight of the entire structure, even with large thicknesses;
the screed is ready for installation of the topcoat immediately after the completion of the work.

There are only three disadvantages:

this is not a very common option for screed, it is difficult to find performers;
low strength and complete absence of waterproofing properties;
high price.

How to make a screed in an apartment with your own hands? Step-by-step instruction for all three options is given below.

Traditional screed device

First of all, you need to decide how thick the screed will be and what type of finish coating will fit on it.

The thickness of the screed cannot be less than 30 mm, and almost never more than 80 mm. If it is required to raise the floor level higher than 80 mm, a layer of expanded clay is placed under the screed.

A screed with a thickness of 30-40 mm is made of a cement-sand mortar, with a thickness of more than 40 mm it is better to arrange a concrete screed. If the topcoat is a tile, you can limit yourself to one layer of screed; in other cases, it is advisable to make a finishing leveling layer on top of the rough screed.

Preparatory work

Before starting work on the floor screed device, it is required to remove absolutely the entire old screed, cleaning it off to overlap. Otherwise, the new screed will turn out to be of poor quality, its adhesion to the concrete of the floor will be incomplete, cracks and voids may form.

Then, as a rule, using the water level, a line is drawn on the walls corresponding to the upper plane of the planned screed. At this stage, you can calculate how much material (sand, cement, and in the case of a concrete screed - and crushed stone) needs to be purchased.

After dismantling old screed and cleaning, you need to abundantly prime the plane of the concrete floor. The primer must dry for at least 5 hours. Then a polyethylene film with a thickness of 100-200 microns is laid on the floor, adjacent strips are connected with an overlap.

Warming and installation of warm floors

Most often, a floor screed with expanded clay is used to insulate the floor. It is relatively cheap and easy to install. However, its thermal insulation properties may not be sufficient. In such cases, rigid slab thermal insulation is used, for example, extruded polystyrene foam.

If you plan to install a floor heating system, such work is done at this stage.

Putting the beacons correctly is the key to a flat, horizontal surface of the future screed. Any flaws at this stage will be almost impossible to fix later.

Lighthouses are T-shaped profiles that will serve as guides for the rule as the mortar is leveling in the horizontal plane.

Lighthouses are installed on pyramids made of mortar, parallel to one of the walls, at a distance from each other, which is less than the width of the rule by 10-15 cm. Their upper plane should be strictly horizontal and be in the same plane with the upper level of the screed marked on the walls.

Screed mortar

The proportions of sand and cement for floor screed are usually taken in a ratio of 1: 3, that is, for one volumetric part of cement - three volumetric parts of sand. Water is added little by little, until the desired plasticity of the mixture is achieved.

It is better to order ready-made concrete for a concrete screed. If this is not possible, use cement, sand and crushed stone in a volumetric proportion of 10:32:50, with a cement grade of 400. Concrete will be 150 grade. The sand used to make mortar or concrete for the screed should not contain clay impurities, as it impairs the adhesion properties of the finished mortar.

Grouting and leveling the screed

This stage of work should be carried out quickly on the one hand, since the solution begins to set after 40-60 minutes and loses its plasticity, it becomes impossible to level it, and on the other hand - carefully and carefully, since the screed is horizontal and how smooth will its surface after drying depends precisely on the thoroughness of the leveling of the solution. Filling the space between the beacons with a solution begins from the strip farthest from the door. Following the rule along the beacons, the solution is leveled. Then repeat the same with the next strip, and so on until the last strip.

Final works

It is best to let the screed dry for at least 12 hours before standing on it. From the dried screed, you can remove the beacons and seal the grooves remaining from them with a solution.

If you plan to use a material that is sensitive to the slightest unevenness of the subfloor, for example, laminate flooring, as a finishing floor covering, you need to pour another thin leveling layer over the rough screed. The screed is primed. For the finishing layer, a special mixture is used, which is called a self-leveling self-leveling floor, or a sufficiently liquid cement is prepared sand mortar with proportions 1: 2.5. The mixture is poured onto the surface of the screed and distributed evenly throughout the room using a rule, after which it is allowed to dry completely.

Semi-dry screed device

The entire list of works for a semi-dry screed completely coincides with the list of works for a traditional screed. The only difference is in the amount of water that is added to the cement-sand mortar. It should be such that the finished mixture is moist, but not flowing. This is done in order to speed up the drying time of the finished screed. Since the ready-made mixture for a semi-dry screed is much less plastic, it is more difficult to level it. Therefore, after the completion of leveling, it is additionally rubbed. This is done using a special disk installation, or using a broad rule. After that, the surface of the screed is covered with a film so that the surface does not dry out and cracks do not form on the screed. After 12 hours, you can remove the beacons and fill the grooves with a solution.

Dry screed device

A dry screed is a special gypsum fiber (GVL) sheets of increased strength, laid on a backfill made of insulating material (for example, perlite).

In the same way as in the case of a traditional screed, you must first determine the thickness of the dry screed, calculate the required amount of materials and purchase them.

It should be borne in mind that after delivery of GVL to the installation site, they must rest for at least 10 hours at room temperature.

Preparatory work

The old screed is only removed if it is severely damaged. In other cases, thorough cleaning is sufficient. In the same way as in previous cases, the level of the future screed is marked on the walls. A layer of a special vapor barrier film is laid, an edge tape is mounted on the walls to the level of the future screed.

Installation of guide profiles

The profiles begin to be installed parallel to the walls, the first along the wall, and the rest at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other. The supports under the profiles should be no more than 70 cm apart.

Backfill filler

The filler is poured starting from the strip farthest from the door and leveled with a special device.

GVL laying

Then the first layer of GVL is placed on the filler. This is done intermittently, with displacement of the seams between the sheets in each next row. The second layer of gypsum fiber board is laid on the first with glue with an offset to overlap the seams of the first layer. The layers are fastened together with self-tapping screws.
After that, you can lay the topcoat.

And yet, which one is better

It is impossible to unequivocally answer this question, each option has its own pros and cons.

A dry screed is the record holder in terms of installation speed, a traditional screed is a universal option for any premises, a semi-dry screed dries faster than a traditional one.

When choosing a screed, one should proceed from a combination of the available time and budget, and also take into account the nuances:

If the screed is made in a damp room, it is definitely a traditional method.
If you need to make a screed only in one of the premises of the apartment, without leaving for the duration of the repair, it is definitely a dry screed.
You need a cement screed, but the time is very limited - a semi-dry screed.

The choice in other cases is not so unambiguous, the need for sound insulation, the required strength of the screed and other factors are important. The main thing is that after choosing one of the options, all work is carried out in compliance with the technology. Then any option will successfully meet expectations.

It is impossible to imagine the repair of an old coating without a high-quality foundation. Do-it-yourself floor screed is a completely feasible measure that allows you to save on paying for hired craftsmen. To deal with it quickly and inexpensively, you need to prepare both theoretically and practically. The greatest difficulty is usually caused by two stages: the preparation of the solution and the installation of beacons. However, with a certain dexterity, many, even novice craftsmen, manage to complete them without much difficulty.

The screed is a rough coating, the thickness and quality of which are determined by the conditions of further operation, the unevenness of the base. Its device is required to level the surface, when raising the floor level, replacing the wooden flooring. It is wet and dry. Popular concrete screed... Although it is laborious and time-consuming for the mortar to dry, it is highly durable.

A standard set of materials that will be needed to prepare a do-it-yourself floor screed:

cement grade M400 or M500;
clean, sifted sand with a small thickness, with the addition of stones to create a thicker base;
water;
plasticizer - improves the characteristics of the finished mixture, promotes its faster drying, makes it more plastic;
a container for preparing a solution, a concrete mixer is an ideal option.

In addition, you need to take care of the water hose with a spray nozzle, self-tapping screws for fixing beacons, a screwdriver, a level, a trowel and a rule in advance. It does not matter where it is planned to make the floor screed in a private house or in an apartment. The set of tools may differ slightly depending on the capabilities and characteristics of work in a particular place. Consider step by step order, dividing it into five steps for convenience.

The first stage is preparatory. The old coating is completely removed. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of debris, dirt, dust. Then it is primed. Instead of soil, you can moisten it well with plain water by supplying the liquid with a hose with a spray. Here we need to find a “golden mean”: we do not regret water, but we should not create a swamp either. If the underfloor heating screed has a large area, you can wet it gradually, as work is done.

Stage two - we install beacons. They are wooden or aluminum, which one to choose, everyone decides for himself. Let's dwell briefly on their features:

wooden - fixed with self-tapping screws, they will need to be removed from the finished screed;
aluminum - put "on the solution", you do not need to get them.

Lighthouses are installed at a distance of about 1 m from each other. This will make it easier to "drag" the solution with the rule in the future. The quality of the finished coating depends on the correct placement of the beacons. Therefore, be sure to use the level, reliably fix the slats.

Stage three - we prepare the solution. First, mix in proportions 1 to 2 or 3 of the components of the mixture - cement and sand (for a bucket of cement, respectively, 2 or 3 buckets of sand). The most difficult thing is to add the right amount of water: the mixture should turn out to be thick and plastic, like good sour cream. The "correct" mixture does not stick to the instrument and does not flow. The finished solution is evenly filled in the space between the beacons.

Stage four - leveling (constriction) of the solution. The rule is laid on the slats so that it closely touches the lighthouses. Then they pull it together, creating a flat surface. The resulting shells are filled with a solution and pulled over.

Stage five - removal of beacons. This item does not apply to those who have used aluminum battens. The procedure should be performed approximately 3-4 hours after the start of setting. In order not to violate the integrity of the coating, a pair of wide boards are laid on it for movement. For convenience, we screw several self-tapping screws into the rail, hook it up with a nail puller and take out the beacon. Fill the resulting void with a solution. The finished coating is left to set and dry. This will take 2-3 weeks, after which you can start further work.

Floor screed requirements

When the screed is ready, it is necessary to assess the quality of its implementation in stages. It will not be difficult for a professional. To help a novice master, we will formulate the main provisions:

Visual control. The coating should be even, look uniform, and have a uniform gray color.
Accuracy check. It is carried out with a rule of about 2 m in length to reveal gaps. If their size does not exceed 4 mm, the job is well done.
Coating quality. We check the mechanical strength of the surface with an ordinary hammer. A few blows are made with a hammer on a tangent. There should be no traces of them.

To avoid cracking of the coating during the drying process, especially if it is hot enough in the house, the screed is moistened with water throughout the entire period.

When performing a screed on the ground, for example, in a garage or outbuildings, some peculiarities must be taken into account. Firstly, cement of at least M300 is required, and secondly, in case of unstable soils, it is necessary to additionally make a reinforcing mesh. It will give the coating strength. A brief procedure for performing such a screed:

thorough compaction of the soil;
drainage bedding made of sand and gravel;
laying of reinforcing mesh;
exposition of formwork and lighthouses;
pouring concrete.

In some cases, another, so-called, finishing layer is made. First, lay the thermal insulation, vapor barrier, reinforcing mesh. Then they are poured with a cement-sand mixture or a special compound for the floor.

Building codes offer several options for a rough screed, the choice of which depends on the proximity of groundwater, location relative to ground level.

Experts advise be sure to shoot upper layer soil:

it is loose, which means that more effort will be required to seal it;
plant and animal residues will begin to rot, negatively affecting the overall condition of the coating.

The thickness of the layers depends on the region: the warmer, the thinner. It is important not to forget about waterproofing. If groundwater located high, it is necessary to provide measures for their removal.

DIY floor screed

The owners of private houses without a basement often face the question: to make a screed on the ground or with a ventilated underground? The do-it-yourself floor screed, laid directly on the soil, is deservedly popular. It is simple in execution, inexpensive, and often serves as the basis for a heating structure. You should refuse this option only in a few cases:

It is required to add soil to a height of about 1 m.
The building is located on a pillar or pile foundation.

The labor costs for filling and compaction under such conditions are unreasonably high.

Preparation of the solution

The base of the screed is a concrete mixture of cement, sand and water. A popular question: how to make a floor screed solution? The easiest way is to use special mixtures. They are purchased at a hardware store, prepared according to the instructions. If this is not possible, then you can do it on your own.

The standard ratio is 1 to 3. This means that 3 parts of sand are taken for one part of M500 cement. If M400 brand cement is purchased, then the ratio is changed by 1 to 2. The components are thoroughly mixed, water is gradually added. The finished solution should not be dry or liquid. If mixing takes place in a concrete mixer, the mixture should not stick to the walls, rolling while stirring in a wave. A few words must be said about the plasticizer. Many consider adding it just a waste of money. However, it is inexpensive, its consumption will be no more than 2% of the weight of the cement. Moreover, it has a positive effect on the quality of the finished mixture.

Filling the floor

Ideal when pouring the floor screed of one room at a time. When doing it, it should be remembered: the setting time of the solution is no more than an hour, it will not be possible to align or correct the flaws after that. It is strictly forbidden to add water to the solution that is laid on the surface.

The screed is poured under the warm floor from the side of the opposite door. The solution is filled in the strip between the beacons, then it is leveled with the rule. Movements should be uniform, with small movements to the sides. After finishing one section, it should be pierced in several places with wire. This will allow air to escape. You can stand on the surface in about 2-3 hours. It is best to use a sheet of plywood for support.

For coatings that require a perfect level base, a floor screed is applied. In some cases, it is enough to properly grind the concrete by installing it on the grinder grinding wheel... Another layer of mortar will have to be applied under the self-leveling floor. It is made more liquid so that it spreads and, under the influence of gravity, creates a flat surface.

Leveling the wood floor

There is often debate among builders about how best to make a screed on a wooden floor. Some are categorically against the "wet" option, insisting that concrete and wood "will not make friends." Therefore, it is recommended to give preference to the dry version. However, when arranging a warm floor or the upcoming installation tile you cannot do without a concrete base. Knowing some of the nuances and secrets, it can be done without loss of quality.

The peculiarity of the tree lies in the fact that lumber, even after use, constantly changes its characteristics (moisture level, dimensions). Conversely, concrete, after curing, practically stops any "movement". Therefore, a bunch of these materials can lead to a violation of the integrity of the concrete layer.

It is categorically impossible to make a clean fill on a new wooden floor. At least 3-4 years of operation must pass.

A reasonable question arises, how to make warm floors on wooden floor using concrete pouring? For this purpose, a simple but effective technology is used. Its essence: to create a border between wood and concrete. The process of creating such a "pie":

carefully inspect the wooden base to eliminate rotten or cracked boards;
fix the logs and floorboards, seal the cracks with sealant;
fill the tree with waterproof soil, withstand the time specified in the instructions;
apply a line of clean floor on the walls;
fix a damper tape or a strip of expanded polystyrene around the perimeter of the room;
cover the floor with polyethylene, putting it 15 cm on the walls;
install beacons on the solution;
pour the solution.

When the screed of wooden floors with your own hands is completed, it is abundantly moistened for a day, closing it with polyethylene after spraying with water. The key to a solid foundation is maintaining a stable temperature and humidity regime.

In order for the laminate or linoleum to lay perfectly evenly, the base for them should be made as smooth as possible, for which you need to study how the finishing professional floor pouring is done, the construction instructions for which are detailed below. Why it is preferable to do it yourself is pretty obvious. After all, this will mean considerable savings (which otherwise would have been spent on paying for the work of the masters) and the acquisition of a fair amount of experience.

Of course, the process of pouring the floor can be entrusted to specialists. But many seek to carry out and control everything on their own. The first thing to do before you start work is to prepare everything. necessary tools, as well as inventory, the presence of which is required by the technology of the floor screed device in the apartment.

Required tools

According to the priority of application, you will need: a hydro level, a pencil, a chopping thread, a tape measure. Also, make sure you have a cord, knitting wire, a utility knife, wire cutters, a puncher and screwdriver, usually a trowel and a grater, and a shovel on hand. Some of the work will be easier to do by wearing rubber boots which you should think about in advance.

It is logical that, without building materials, the screed can only be made dry, poured grandfather's method made of clay, which can be dug up behind the house, and then covered with shields. However, this is not the best way out, so we stock up on the necessary amount of cement and sand. We calculate the consumption of the mixture by multiplying square meter(in centimeters) to the fill height, using the standard volume formula. One share of this figure is cement, 50 kilograms of which will require 15 liters of water, and another 4 parts - sand. For elasticity, as a plasticizer for underfloor heating, add 100-150 grams of liquid soap.

Add liquid soap for elasticity

And finally, the process itself. The role of the screed is not only to level the floor, it is necessary both to hide the pipes of the warm floor and to create an additional layer of insulation or sound insulation in combination with a hydro-barrier. They are different, and if you want to get a heat source by hiding pipes in the thickness of the cement, in this case a floating one will be used. Simply put, it will not lie on the hard base of the floor, but on a rather soft layer of thermal insulation (we take polystyrene foam plates that have sufficient hardness), on top of which the pipes will be located.

The site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required amount cement.

How to make a floor screed - sequence of actions

The first and main process is the measurement of the premises, not the purchase building materials, because while you do not know the scope of work, you do not know how much cement or sand will be needed. There are many stages of work ahead, and only after taking the first step, you will know with what numbers to go for the screed components.

Master class floor screed - step by step diagram

Step 1: define the horizon and fill level

When the preparation for the floor screed is completed, using the hydro level, we find the horizon at a height of 1.5 meters, and with a chopping thread covered with chalk, we make marking lines.

Then we measure the distance to the base with a tape measure and find the point farthest from it and the closest to it, thereby determining the difference in levels in the room

Based on the measurements, you can calculate how to properly fill the floor screed, as well as the amount of materials that will be required for it. is 40 millimeters. We complete the marking work by transferring the markers down in the corners to the fill level and threading out new lines along which the new base surface will pass.

Step 2: preparation of the base

The next stage is the preparation of the floor under the screed, it will not require special labor costs if it is planned to make a heating system in the room under the finishing coating.

The role of the substrate in this case will be assigned to the insulation, separated from the floor slab by film waterproofing. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top, and on it - metal-plastic or propylene pipes bent according to a certain pattern (snake or spiral), fixed with special fasteners. If the pouring of the underfloor heating screed for a film electric heater is planned directly on the floor, it must be thoroughly cleaned and even washed.

Step 3: Leveling beacons

Having achieved an acceptable state of the base or substrate made of insulation with heating elements, it is time to move on to the installation of beacons, without which it is impossible to install a screed under a warm floor. To do this, we drive dowels into two opposing walls along the line of the future screed through 1-1.5 meters, to which we tie a cord (it can be nylon).

Exactly along the strings stretched in one plane, raising and lowering with the help of wooden wedges, we place parallel beacons from metal profile 20x40 mm (two at a distance of half a meter from the walls).

They are necessary so that subsequently the screed under the warm floor is equal to them.

Step 4: Securing the beacons and installing the thermal seam

Since in the process of laying the solution, the beacons can move and change their position in space, they should be carefully fixed. Holes are drilled in the ceiling, into which a pair of screws are screwed on both sides of the profile, at a short distance from each end of the pipe and in the middle.

Then knitting wire is wound around the screws so that the beacon is firmly fixed in place.

It remains only to make a thermal seal around the perimeter of the room, securing a belt from the remnants of insulation along the lower edge of the walls with liquid nails.

Step 5: mixing the mortar

So, beacons are placed around the room, the thermos are securely fixed, it's time to start making the floor screed. For the solution, we take 50-kilogram bags of grade 400 cement, no less, the sand is sold by weight or in cubic meters, for work it will need 4 times more... Accordingly, in a large capacity, which can serve as old bath(it is better to use a compact mobile concrete mixer), mix cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 4; when the composition becomes homogeneous, add water. The consistency should be like thick sour cream.

When adding a plasticizer, care should be taken, an overdose leads to a slowdown in the hardening process of the composition.

Step 6: fill and flatten with the rule

If you have prepared a water heating system in the form of pipes laid on a heater, laying a warm floor in a screed does not require any special technologies.

We are convinced that a small portion of the solution, laid on a flat place, slightly floats, but does not spread with slurry, that is, it corresponds to the proper degree of density. Then we simply fill the area between the wall opposite the door with the mixture and the second beacon from it (the first should hide under the mortar).

We level the solution with a shovel.

We level the solution

Using the rule, we finally bring the mixture to the level of beacons.

Step 7: nuances of aligning and removing voids

For those who are not confident in their abilities, it is advisable to look in advance in the training video how to properly make a rough floor screed with your own hands, the video will also tell you a simple way to achieve the desired result without flaws.

For example, few beginners know that when working with the rule, it is advisable to level the solution so that it is slightly higher than the lighthouses, then after shrinkage it will become flush with them. In the presence of a heating system, it is extremely possible to screed the floor without voids. simple method- it is enough to slightly tug on the reinforcing mesh so that the mixture covers it and pipes from all sides.

Step 8: Rule alignment after hardening

When cement mortar will cover the entire area of the room, you have to work as a rule, walking directly on the liquid mixture, for which, in fact, you need to prepare rubber boots before putting the screed on the floor.

Then you just have to wait until the fill hardens enough so that you can move along it. As a rule, the drying time of the floor screed takes at least two weeks, during which it is necessary to moisten the surface with water regularly every other day. After the cement has hardened, you should take the rule and scrape off the top layer to the lighthouses, collecting the excess in a bucket.

Step 9: Removing beacons from cured cement

How the floor screed device is completed, the video will tell you the best, but there is nothing complicated in this, and often only instructions are enough. After the surface became smoother, and the beacons appeared from under the layer of mortar, we take a spatula and carefully cut through the thickness of the fill on both sides of the profiles.

Then we cut through the knitting wire with pliers and remove the pipes, tapping them with a hammer in the process in order to avoid lifting the stuck layers.

Pipe extraction surface

To do this, add a little fresh cement and water to the scraped mortar, which is placed in a bucket, mix thoroughly and fill the grooves from the profile pipes with the mixture made.

When the remains of the cement-sand mixture are removed, we are left with only grouting the floor screed.

It is done with a grater and water. We start from the far corner of the room, slightly wetting the fill with water and carefully smoothing the surface with a float.

After the end of the "polishing", when the base takes on the proper form, which you were trying to achieve, with a clerical knife we cut off the excess thermal seam flush with the surface, the rest will subsequently be hidden under the skirting boards. Now the work has been successfully completed, and you can move on to the next room.

Concrete screed is the most famous and truly high-quality way of arranging floor foundations. It is very popular with home craftsmen. We will tell you about all the varieties and features of the screed, paying special attention to the technology of its implementation.

Screeds - for what tasks are they used?

Concrete floor screed (BSP) is in demand in both industrial and private construction. It guarantees a perfectly leveled base - durable, resistant to mechanical stress and destruction, high strength, which is suitable for mounting a variety of topcoats. Moreover, the screed in an apartment or a private house is easy to do yourself. The technology of its filling is accessible and understandable. For these reasons, BSP is so popular among craftsmen who are used to exercising household repair do it yourself.

The screed is poured for different purposes. Most often, it is used for high-quality leveling of the floor surface, creating a certain slope, masking engineering networks laid on the floor. BSP is usually divided into multilayer and single-layer. The first ones are poured not at once, but in several steps. In such situations, the lower layer of the mixture plays the role of the base, and the upper one is responsible for the formation of a perfectly flat surface. Single-layer screeds are poured over the entire treated area at once. With this approach, it is impossible to get a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, single-layer BSPs are usually used to perform work in non-residential (utility, utility) and industrial premises.

Screeds can be homogeneous or include special. additives. The latter are often used:

Expanded clay. This additive provides an increase in the heat-shielding potential of the concrete solution and allows the creation of thick screeds.
Expanded polystyrene crumb. It also increases the thermal insulation of the floor.
Fiber fibers. They significantly increase the resistance of the base to bending, tensile and mechanical stress. Compositions with fiberglass are used in the arrangement of underfloor heating systems.

Next moment. Concrete screeds are made using semi-dry and wet technology. They have certain differences. Semi-dry technique involves the use of expanded clay crushed stone or other bulk material. Prepare it, lay it on the surface to be treated, ram it, level it according to a special scheme. Not every person is ready to study its features. The wet method is better known to self-taught craftsmen. It is used by them much more often. We'll talk about it in detail later.

Types of BSP according to the degree of contact with the base - choose the appropriate option

Also screeds are referred to different types depending on the level of their adhesion to the surface. From this point of view, they are:

1. Connected.
2. Floating.
3. On a special layer (called separating).

The connected screeds are poured directly onto the working base, with which it is connected. No additional heat or waterproofing is provided between them. Such solutions are recommended for the following cases: a large area of the base to be treated, an initially flat floor, the need to obtain a BSP with a minimum weight, a low floor level that cannot be raised.

The associated structures are highly durable. They can easily withstand perceptible mechanical pressures, but are susceptible to moisture. It is best to equip them on dry ceilings between the floors of an apartment building in rooms where household appliances, furniture, and so on are in permanent places.

Floating bundles are mounted on a pre-made cushion made of hydro-, noise- and heat-insulating layers. The result is a kind of slab of concrete mortar, which is not tied to the walls of the room and to the floor. Such screeds must be reinforced without fail. And their minimum thickness should be 5 cm. parquet board, linoleum, laminated flooring and others Decoration Materials... It is advisable to organize such screeds exclusively in apartments on the first floors.

If the floor surface is characterized by high humidity, it is recommended to pour BSP on a separating layer. It is equipped with a polymer film, roofing material, a special coating composition, foil plates made of polystyrene foam. These waterproofers prevent water from eroding the screed and the floor base itself. A screed on a separating layer shows all its operational advantages when installed in private houses without basements, outbuildings, garages and other premises on the ground. It is also recommended to fill it in toilets and bathrooms.

Classic grouting solution - proven over the years

For filling the traditional BSP, sand is used cement mix... Its proportions are known to everyone. For one part of cement, we take three parts of sand. Fill them with water. We get a solution that can be poured into any base (floor slabs, soil). In this case, the screed mixture must be prepared correctly. One mistake in the choice of material for it, a little extra water, and the solution will turn out to be of poor quality. Let's figure out how to avoid such problems.

In order for the solution to have the required characteristics, we carefully select the sand for it. We use exclusively quarry material. It is characterized by irregular grains of sand. This ensures the required level of adhesion of the screed to the base. There should be no clay inclusions in the quarry sand.

River washed sand with grains of sand smoothed by water should not be used. The screed from it will turn out to be of poor quality. The hardened base will very quickly begin to crack and crumble. The volume of water with which the cement mixture is diluted is also of great importance. It is important not to overdo it here. If you add too much liquid, the solution will run out. It is quite convenient to work with him. But the strength of the screed, unfortunately, will be minimal. The poured surface will be loose and very loose. In concrete plants, water is topped up according to strict regulations. In everyday life, it makes no sense to adhere to them. We need to add so much water to the sand-cement composition so that the solution turns out to be plastic and at the same time dense.

On average, about 5 kg of mixture requires about 1 liter of liquid. In practice, this volume can vary, since both cement and sand have their own moisture values. One more important point... It is strictly forbidden to use water containing residues of oil products, particles of technical oils and fats, and other pollutants. The liquid must be clean. And the mixing of the solution itself should be done in well-cleaned containers.

Ready mixes - if you want to finish everything quickly

BSP mortar can also be made using a dry mix that is manufactured and packaged at the factory. This composition initially has the optimal ratio of the components included in it. Dry mixes are characterized by the following advantages:

1. They can be used to fill floor slabs in the old apartment building and a new building.
2. In terms of operational and strength characteristics, they are similar to screeds, equipped with the classic composition described above.
3. Ease of use. The BSP device using ready-made mixtures does not require special knowledge. The technology for carrying out all work is indicated in the instructions attached to the dry composition. It is enough to strictly adhere to the manual, and there will be no problems with the screed.

In addition, ready-made mixtures make it possible to make a so-called lightweight screed. It is indispensable for cases when it is impossible to equip an ordinary concrete floor due to the high weight of the latter.

Lightweight mixture usually consists of cement and perlite, vermiculite or expanded clay. Such formulations have been used relatively recently. But they have already become quite popular, especially when apartments are being set up in new buildings. Their main advantage is that a light floor can be used within a day after laying the dry mix.

How to do the job - let's get down to the procedures

The screed in the apartment is done in several stages. First, dismantle the old concrete base... The operation will have to be performed with a puncher. We act carefully so as not to damage the integrity of the floor slabs.

We clean and dust the dismantled surface. Close up concrete mortar or with epoxy putty all the flaws (voids, cracks). After that:

1. Apply a (penetrating) primer to the prepared surface using a brush or roller.
2. We glue a damper elastic tape around the perimeter of the room. It will exclude the contact of the screed with the walls and will act as a compensator for the expansion of the concrete structure.
3. We create a system of beacons. Using the building level (laser, water), we determine the zero level. We mark the floor. We install beacons (U-shaped metal profiles), attaching them to the base with self-tapping screws.
4. We carry out, if necessary, the reinforcement of the future screed. Pre-fabricated zinc coated wire mesh is best suited for this purpose. We choose products with cells of 10 cm. Nuance. If the fill area is small, a 5 cm mesh is sufficient.

Everything is ready for pouring concrete mix... The screed is recommended to be done at a room temperature of 15 to 25 ° C. At the same time, there should be no drafts in the room. If the temperature in the room is less than 5 ° C is prohibited, from 5 to 14 is possible, but undesirable, since the concrete layer will harden for a very long time.

It is most convenient to fill the surface with two people. One person mixes the solution, the second immediately processes the floor with it and levels the resulting base. We always start the procedure from the far corner of the room and move towards the exit from it. Pour the solution between the previously installed guides. We take its layer 1.5-2 centimeters above the zero level. We distribute the screed with a shovel (as an option - with a trowel, if the room has a small area). We use the same tools to bayonet the concrete mixture, expelling air bubbles from it.

After the initial distribution of the composition, we put the rule on the metal guides and begin to carefully level the concrete. The procedure is performed in zigzag movements - first transverse, then translational (or vice versa). We will have to work hard, since the purpose of this operation is to get the smoothest and most even foundation. The finished screed must not be touched for a week. If it's hot outside, the coating will have to be moistened with water every day. The final solidification of BSP is observed in 3-4 weeks.

July 18, 2018 No comments

The floor surface must be perfectly level before installing the floor covering. You can achieve this result by performing a screed.

Slabs used for the construction of multi-storey buildings have a flat surface on one side, and the other side may be defective. Accordingly, a flat surface will be a ceiling, and an uneven floor, which will need to be leveled. You can do the floor screed yourself without special skills. The most important thing is to adhere to a certain technology while working.

The floor screed in the apartment can be done independently. This procedure will help to even out differences in surface height and hide existing defects. Even linoleum cannot be laid on an uneven floor, since it will gradually begin to crack in places of height differences. After completing the screed, you can safely proceed with the installation of the floor covering. The screed functions that it possesses:

able to strengthen the concrete base;
makes the surface perfectly flat, which allows you to extend the operational life of the floor covering;
provides reliable noise and heat insulation;
the screed distributes all future loads to the floor along the entire perimeter;
in kitchens and bathrooms, the screed allows you to make a slope that can drain water in case of flooding.

What types of floor screed exist

The floor screed in your apartment can be independently made from various materials and using different technologies. In this regard, there are several types of screeds:

concrete - such screeds are considered traditional. This method is very good if you need to level the floor with large differences in height;
dry - such a screed is used if the floor differences are in the range from 3 to 12 cm. It is performed using two technologies: alignment along the logs and alignment with gypsum fiber sheets;
self-leveling screeds - this technology allows you to level the floor with irregularities up to 3 cm. It is made with a ready-made mixture and is suitable for any floor covering.

What parameters should a floor screed have?

As mentioned earlier, you can do the floor screed yourself, it is only important to adhere to the technology. The finished screed must fulfill its functions to the fullest and have the following qualities:

the screed must be very strong and withstand certain loads;
the substance for the screed in density should be the same over the entire floor area;
if the screed is laid on a concrete floor, then its thickness should be at least 2 cm. If it is necessary to make it on a heat and sound insulation coating, then its thickness should be at least 4 cm;
if it is necessary to hide pipes in the screed, then its thickness should be 1.5 - 2 times larger diameter the pipes themselves;
when laying the screed on the soundproof layer, it will be necessary to retreat from 2 to 5 cm from the wall. Sound insulation will also need to be put into this indent;
chips and various other defects on the screed are unacceptable.

Basic preparatory work

In order to make the floor screed yourself, you need to carry out some preparatory work, namely:

first, you should inspect the old coating and decide whether to completely dismantle it or partially;
after dismantling, it is necessary to get rid of all the collected debris;
then it is necessary to clean the surface from dust with a vacuum cleaner or a damp sponge;
oily stains should also be removed;
using a level, measure the maximum permissible height of raising the floor in the room;
install beacons.

It is possible to perform the correct screed only if you adhere to certain rules, which will differ depending on the chosen technology and materials.

How to properly lay a concrete screed

The most common option for leveling the floor is a concrete screed. The whole process will be laborious and time-consuming, however, and very effective.

To begin with, naturally, all pieces of furniture, carpets and other things are taken out of the room in which it is planned to perform the screed. Old flooring you will need to remove and look at the base. At the next stage, preparatory work takes place. For a concrete mixture, the following components are required: sand, cement and plasticizers, as well as other fillers.

Tools required for work:

putty knife;
container for mixing the solution;
a drill that will knead the composition;
level;
beacons;
assembly knife.

Now ready-made mixtures are being sold, in which the composition is selected correctly. At specialized points you can buy ready-made mixtures that contain the necessary components in the right amount. In cement - sand mixtures useful fillers may also be present. You can not worry about how to fill the screed yourself if you study the elementary rules.

A solution for a concrete screed can also be prepared on your own. For this, cement is combined with sand in a ratio of 1: 3. By adding plasticizers, you can make the mortar more elastic and prevent cracks on the future screed. If the floor height differences are more than 7 cm, then it is recommended to add fiber to the leveling solution, or use a metal mesh.

Stages of laying a concrete screed

Using the level, it is necessary to measure all the unevenness of the floor;
Next, you should clean up all chips and cracks on the surface;
At the third stage, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust;
If necessary, you can put a waterproofing layer;
Beacons should be placed using the level;
Next, you need to prime the surface;
At the next stage, a mixture is prepared, which must be immediately laid on the surface;
The surface must be leveled with the rule, focusing on the placed beacons.

In one room, the solution must be laid out throughout the day. After all the work done, the finished screed is covered with polyethylene or a wet rag to avoid cracks. Drafts and direct sunlight should not enter the room. It will be possible to walk on the floor in 3 - 4 days. Complete drying of the mixture occurs earlier than a month later.

It is important! The final floor covering must not be installed if the screed is not completely dry.

Self-leveling screed laying technology

With the help of a self-leveling screed, you can make the floor surface ideal for further installation of laminate, linoleum and other floor coverings on it. Stages of laying a self-leveling screed:

At the initial stage, all debris and especially dust should be carefully removed from the surface, which should not float on the surface of the mixture;
Next, the surface is primed.
The pouring solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's recommendation. So that the mixture does not have lumps, it must be added to the liquid and in no case vice versa. The consistency of the solution should be like thick sour cream;
Then you can start pouring the mixture from the corner farthest from the door along the wall;
The thickness of the mixture can be leveled with a needle roller;

Such a screed will dry much faster than a concrete one. It will be possible to walk on it after 10 hours of drying.

Dry screed laying technology

The dry screed is modern technology and consists of two layers:

The first layer consists of expanded clay sand or a special mixture;
Sheets of a specific material.

The sheet material can be fiberboard or plywood, as well as gypsum fiber. The sheets are attached to each other with self-tapping screws or glue. The joints must be covered with putty. With the help of such a screed, you can very well level the floor and create reliable sound and heat insulation.

From all of the above, we can conclude that screed in an apartment can be done very easily and without outside help. All you need is to have good materials and tools, and adhere to the phasing of work. It is advisable to purchase ready-made mixtures in stores that have the appropriate documents confirming the quality of the goods.

Following the recommendations of the manufacturers, you can prepare a good solution for the future screed. You should not save on materials, it will depend on how long your screed and, accordingly, the floor covering can serve.

Video: How to make a do-it-yourself floor screed

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