Instructions for making a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench with drawings and video. How to make an outdoor workbench with your own hands Workbench from an old table

For the convenience of processing wood, stone, plastic and metal, for finishing and assembly manipulations, a working joiner's workbench is often required. To do it yourself, drawings are not required - they are needed for desktops complex design, which are also described in this article.

Purpose and typical device of the workbench

Any workbench is a massive and necessarily stable work table for processing products of various sizes. The larger its dimensions, the larger and heavier the parts can be processed on it. Moreover, the work itself is performed as hand tool(with a hacksaw, a brace, etc.) and mechanized - for example, using an electric drill or an electric planer. A carpenter's bench has the following typical layout:

The working surface is made of a solid board, at least 60 mm thick. For the lid of the workbench, it is advisable to use hardwood - beech, hornbeam or oak, otherwise it will have to be periodically changed due to rapid wear... The lid can be put together from separate dry boards and treated with linseed oil before installation;
A vice is "hung" on the front (front) part of the upper cover for fixing the workpieces. If the linear dimension of the workbench is more than 1 meter, you can install two vices - separately for large and small parts. Large vices should be made of wood, small ones are acceptable in the "steel version";
Bench supports are made of soft wood - pine or linden. The workbench supports made of wood are necessarily interconnected by longitudinal strips for the overall stability of the structure;
On the supports in the space underneath, pull-out or tightly fixed tool shelves can be located.

A number of holes are drilled in the front of the top cover to accommodate clamps, wedges, and other parts for attaching large parts. A recess is provided in the back of the working surface - it is intended for small parts and accessories. You can replace a difficult-to-manufacture recess with a perimeter of wooden slats.

A homemade workbench can have three types of design:

Mobile. A small table measuring approximately 70 x 80 cm in length and width, with one vice and weighing up to 30 kg. The lower legs are made of metal for added stability. Designed for minor repairs and work with light wood products;
A stationary workbench of simple design - easy to manufacture, but firmly "tied" to one place. It is used for processing heavy boards and solid wood blanks;
Bolted compound. Convenient for its "collapsible" and ease of replacement of individual parts, but more difficult to manufacture than others.

Photo gallery: drawings with dimensions and designations

Methodology self-made Let us consider the stationary and adjustable workbenches in more detail. Stationary is dug into the ground on its own site, in the country or in the yard. If it is installed inside a garage or other work space, it is recommended that it be well attached to the floor so that the workbench does not swing during operation.

The editing sequence is as follows:

Base - frame made of wooden beams, which is fastened so that the structure as a result comes out as reliable as possible. To do this, you need to place a jumper between the legs, and install a drawer in the middle. They are best placed at a distance of about 40 cm from floor level. By the way, they are also useful for creating additional shelves. The bars are aligned using construction glue. Where it is impossible to carry out such work, you need to use self-tapping screws. If you are going to make a disassembled tool, it is best to connect the supports with metal corners. In any case, first all the grooves are prepared, then the structure is assembled, the joints are processed with glue, we fix them with clamps. The best option when installing a stationary workbench, it is considered the possibility of attaching part of the tool to the wall for reliability.
The base is a frame made of beams
If you build a tabletop from several boards, then it is important to knock them down as efficiently as possible so that debris and sawdust do not get into the gaps. The dimensions should exceed the width and length of the base by 3-5 cm - this will allow you to clean the instrument with all the convenience.
The table top is screwed and nailed to several boards that are on the other side of the work surface, and grooves must be placed in the base for mounting the bars.
Boards are attached to a stable frame
The work table must be tidied up with a grinder, covered with linseed oil to reduce the risk of injury from chips, and metal corners are bolted to its base.
We attach a vice to the already made working surface, under which recesses should be created in the working surface, this will allow the vertical plate to be placed in the same plane with the tabletop. We install a plywood gasket on the underside, while it is important to make sure that the lips of the vise are flush with the surface. With a vice, mark the area where the holes will be drilled, and attach them with nuts. We mill the holes in advance so that the bolts "sink" in them. It is best to install the vise not in corners, which will make them reliable even under heavy loads.
A vise or saw can be attached to the surface of the workbench
In addition to the vice, you must also make stops. Of course, you can make them yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made ones. However, if you decide to create them yourself, prepare rectangular stops that can be adjusted in height. Bolts should not be used, as they can damage the workpieces during operation. On the working surface we make holes for the stops, while it is desirable to place them at a distance of up to 50% of the vise stroke - this will allow you to securely fix any workpieces.

Video: workbench with a vice

Video: work table with a saw

How to make a simple do-it-yourself joinery workbench

The top cover is knocked together from thick boards, from which a massive shield with a width of 70 cm and a length of up to 2 meters should be obtained. For fastening, long nails are used, hammered into the boards from the "front" side and carefully bent on the seamy wooden lintels. The working surface of the workbench is necessarily made of solid wood, fiberboard, chipboard and other materials from pressed shavings are absolutely not suitable for it.
A good constructive solution would be to cover the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm bar - later it is convenient to fix vertical supports to it. The increased weight of the cover will only give additional stability to the entire structure.
The location of the vertical supports depends on the size of the top cover of our workbench. It is advisable to make them from a rectangular bar with dimensions from 120 to 120 mm. You can also take round wood as supports, but its fasteners are not as reliable as that of square (rectangular) bars. The height of the working surface is of great importance, the convenience of carpentry manipulations depends on it.
It is optimal to set the upper cut of the supports at the level of the hand lowered down - due to the installation of the cover, the total height of the workbench will "grow" by 7-10 cm and it will become quite convenient to work on it. On the ground, we make markings for holes for vertical supports and dig them to a depth of 25-30 cm. Accordingly, the total length of the dug-in bars is 1.2-1.3 meters.
Vertical bars are installed in the dug holes exactly, strictly according to the building level. The installed supports are connected in pairs using wide boards at a height of 20-40 cm. The transverse boards are attached to the vertical bars using long self-tapping screws. After that, a working surface is mounted on the ends of the supports. For its installation, self-tapping screws are used, since hammer blows on nails can move the frame of our structure.
When the top cover is securely fixed, vices, clamps and other devices can be “hung” on it for the convenience of joinery.

If the design is more complex

When making a composite carpentry workbench do-it-yourself drawings will be required, although the manufacturing procedure itself is in many ways similar to that described above. The main differences are related to the use of bolted connections instead of self-tapping screws and the installation of tool boxes in the space below.

When the installation of the vertical supports is completed, they are connected to each other with horizontal jumpers. Previously, grooves for a nut and washer are hollowed out in each lintel using a chisel and a hammer (you can use special furniture bolts with C-nuts). Having set the jumper bar to the required height, a through hole is drilled in the vertical support and the horizontal bar, into which a long bolt is inserted. From the side of the prepared groove, a nut with a washer is "attached" to the bolt and carefully tightened along the thread.

Horizontal jumpers for the frame of a collapsible workbench will require two on all four sides. In addition, it is necessary to install 1-2 jumpers in the middle of the tabletop, directly below it. To these additional jumpers, horizontal rails are attached to small self-tapping screws, along which the drawers for the tool will slide. The boxes themselves are made "on site", that is, depending on the dimensions of the mounting gap between the jumpers.

The working cover of the collapsible workbench is also bolted. In the upper part of the vertical supports, using a chisel, an assembly recess is hollowed out, holes for bolts are drilled in the cover. Because a flat working surface is required, the heads of the bolts are "recessed" in the cover due to the drilling of their seats with drills of the appropriate diameter.

Video: how to make your own milling table

The undeniable advantage of a collapsible workbench lies not only in the easy replacement of parts and the worktop itself. As you know, under the load from planing, drilling, with other machining, the most durable workbench loosens. It is much safer and easier to re-tighten the fastening bolts than to drive new nails or screws into the wood - so that collapsible models last much longer than knocked-down counterparts.

Video: folding workbench table

The design of your joinery workbench will depend on your needs. In order to make it with your own hands, minimal knowledge and skills are enough.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw a vice, and put tools in boxes.

I managed to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.

Metal parts are blue, and wooden parts are yellow.
The table top will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from shaped pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. The shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick planks. From the 40x4 strip, guides will be made for attaching the side panels. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Dikim to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 am, so as not to stretch it for the whole day, we went to the metal warehouse.

The weather was slimy and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army jacket, apparently suffering from a hangover syndrome, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grimy, rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, as it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning, the following were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, for a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, fetid, sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for the homemade countertop was welded.

The base cross members for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, curly cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of how it looks:

In the meantime, scalded the toolbar brackets.

4mm strip pads reinforced the loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

The brackets add additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet of 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired sizes.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b] let's cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.

Made boxes from 15mm plywood. Collected on 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solidly, as I love.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The skids were fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. Moreover, it is holding securely so.

Now I think over different options facades.

At this point, the welding stage is over. Ahead is the carpenter's and the painter's. Even in small things, locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller for advice on a good paint.
- Wah, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the countertop edged board 150x40. Fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. I used 60 self-tapping screws in total.

I slightly sanded the surface so that the sheet of metal lay tighter.

I talked about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion by itself.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and restricts the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared the 1st group of fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow welding metal directly on the surface of the workbench. Boards all the same if they do not catch fire, they will be charred. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grate, which will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from thermal effects.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.

I covered the countertop with 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to the wooden base by rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The table top is monumental.

I covered the extra openings in the workbench frame with 10mm plywood shields.
Pictured is a paint shop.

I registered the permanent residents on the tabletop - a grinding machine and a vice. On a hefty countertop, they get lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on the countertop? Bow to a rust converter that will create a lasting protective film and which is easy to update when needed. Can you have any better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy, height-adjustable chair?

P.S. I think those reading this thread will be interested - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded ones: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Follow the links to find the process of making everything presented.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin even layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. The film really turned out, as if covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore. the film is easily dissolved with a new portion of the transducer and dries up again, hiding all the old damage.

From the large one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I would like to hang a sheet of plywood or one-piece furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I propose an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the table top).

Well, and, in fact, what for ...

Test passed

Class! You no longer have to huddle with a hand-held power tool on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.

I mounted a toolbar. Solid, 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equally hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Drawer fronts made from the remains of 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places it came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench has exceeded 200 kilograms. The area of the countertop is 1.65 square meters, the area of the toolbar is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost one cubic meter. The peculiarity of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with the TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and a panel allow convenient storage of almost all of my tools, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such homemade workbench dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will still work on it.

P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing room)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put an end to the project, a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).

Over time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting... Fortunately, two square meters there is where to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Happy with aki elephant.

First, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last the same for me. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.

The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching the vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from the bottom to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the table top with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It was better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.

Otherwise, it turned out to be a great thing. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. The large countertop also has plenty of room to decompose.

You can purchase some of the items from this blog in our VKontakte group:

This joinery workbench has a sturdy frame, a sturdy work surface and many compartments for easy storage of tools and accessories. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and various useful additions will add gradually.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

Hacksaw.
Electric planer.
Circular saw.
Sanding machine.
Drill and drills.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpentry workbench frame

Take smooth pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The considered carpentry workbench is designed for comfortable work of a craftsman with a height of 170-180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finish dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
Leg detail
Bottom spacer
Upper spacer
Transverse slip
Cover cross member
Longitudinal slip
Longitudinal drawer side
Bottom shelf
Worktop spacer

All the elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

File it all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: it is more convenient to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later "in place".

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and halve the result. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Fold the boards down exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the parts and sand them with medium grit sandpaper.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After removing dust from the surfaces, apply glue to the small piercer and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off any glue that has escaped, and drill the holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the rest of the legs of the joinery workbench frame.

Chamfer the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench moves.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal stubs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and secure with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of your joinery workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the blocks with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Collect bottom rail workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Replace the top frame and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut the bottom shelf out of 16 mm thick sheet material and attach it to the bars

Carpentry workbench worktop

Use MDF, chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16–20 mm for the lid of the workbench. Glue the boards in two layers and get a worktop 32–40 mm thick.

Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 - bearing plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the countertop, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe will do. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the lid of the joiner's workbench is 670x1940 mm.

Place narrow slabs closer to back wall and towards the center of the workbench. Large sheets place in the top layer of the countertop. Glue the cut pieces together.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Cut the edges with a hand-held circular saw 20 mm from the edge.

Align the table top with the frame and secure with screws.

Sharpen the edge strips. Saw off the bevels at 45 ° and cut the planks to lengths. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the overlays. Align the ends to the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill the pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the rest of the pads. Grind the strips with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the slab to allow the fiberboard to be easily pushed out of the groove when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard into the recess in the lid. If you are using pieces of material, secure them with double-sided tape. Place a joinery vice on a workbench.

Tool storage boxes in the carpentry table

When filling the space under the lid of a joinery workbench, use a modular approach. It is easier to make individual blocks and it is more convenient to change later when space is required for a new instrument. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with a power tool.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - full extension drawer; 2 - a capacious plywood box; 3 - chipboard container; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for a portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use boxes from old furniture

Pick up drawers from an unnecessary desk or chest of drawers that are suitable in size.

Sign the wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and lugs.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles for precise assembly of right angles.

When the glue is dry, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for easy handling.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw on the guide rails.

Collect the panels into a module and try out the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench with props underneath.

Drill the pilot holes, countersink and tighten the self-tapping screws. Attach the chipboard to the top rails and workbench legs.

Install the front trims on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Replace the drawer and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Attach the remaining trims - the wide drawer module is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to increase the rigidity of the joiner's workbench. For the case, take a 16 mm chipboard and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Middle module case: 1 - frame diagram; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame on the screws and install it close to the right block.

Prepare parts for the drawer.

Drawer elements drawings: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

Using a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular blade. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Drive the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install the slats from below to protect the chipboard edges from chips and provide a smoother run.

Fasten the bezel with the screws and put the drawer back in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The structure of the cases of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the mounting gap, so its width will be 26 mm less than the inner size of the body (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the body, fix the wooden rails and metal rails to the sidewalls.

Installation diagram of the guides on the walls of the case.

Fasten the finished module under the workbench cover.

To install the rails on the drawer, unclip the clips and pull out the small rails.

Secure the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide on your own based on the specific design and the gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails until they stop.

Insert both rails at the same time while holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the drawer goes tight, remove it and try again.

Replace the front pad.

How to make a plywood workbench drawer

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom, take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Cutting scheme for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - rear insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front liner.

Grind the workpieces.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the sidewalls, back and front liners. Sand the burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and rear walls.

Apply glue to the joints and groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Secure the parts with screws by drilling the pilot holes.

Build a second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back of the joinery workbench designed to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Finish the boxes and the trimmed ends of the chipboard.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.

Each home master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench, equipped with all kinds of devices for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, you can buy a desktop from a retail chain. However, we recommend making it yourself. Firstly, it will allow you to get a product of the right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the saved money. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

Durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during prolonged work with wooden parts

The joiner's workbench is, in fact, a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of devices for fixing and holding the workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the workpieces being processed, as well as the free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.

The construction of a joinery workbench with a type-setting table top. In the picture: 1 - base or underlay; 2 - top board; 3 - miter box; 4 - screed; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of hand and power tools, the workbench is made from massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hard wood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic renewal. Often, the bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, installing them on the edge.

A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allow the installation of stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the construction, the support legs of the desktop, on the other hand, are made of soft wood. The vertical supports are interconnected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical carpentry workbench scheme

A vise of a special design is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fastening the workpieces. In addition, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted on oversized machines. The best location for a joinery vice is on the left side of the front apron and the near side of the right side.

In the podstachye - the space between the supports, under the tabletop, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the tabletop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.

Types and design

All homemade joinery work tables can be divided into three types:

Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are intended for work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option when space is limited and can be installed in any room in the country or on a balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.
Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design

If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small renovation works or making small parts you can remodel your old writing desk.
A stationary carpenter's workbench is made with reference to a specific place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows processing parts of any size and weight.
A stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the characteristics of the room
Composite type machine is the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this structure, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the workbench are bolted together.
The compound workbench is a structure that can be customized to suit any requirement

Project and drawings

When designing a carpentry workbench, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is imperative to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that it will take a long time to work at the carpentry workbench, the highest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Carpentry Workbench Blueprint

When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is flush with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the tabletop, then you can work tirelessly at such a workbench for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for this purpose. Professional carpenters have long determined the optimal size of the tabletop - a maximum of 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a prefabricated wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use slats and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm and more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental structure.

Joiner's workbench. View from above

Often, the frame, or in another way the workbench frame, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material allows you to create a structure with an adjustable height with less labor, professional carpenters prefer completely wooden structures.

Next, consider the project of a carpentry table¸ made of plywood, or rather, of two 1.8 mm thick plywood sheets glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the dimensions presented are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.

Required tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a rather expensive material (the price of one sheet of 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding shipping costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, more dimensional sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase plywood scraps with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to strengthen the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally for construction carpentry machine will be required:

a wooden beam with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
When choosing lumber for your joinery workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous stress;
electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
joiner's glue. Good result can be obtained using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
Circular Saw;
carpentry square;
long rule (at least 2 m);
construction level;
notched spatula with cut-out sectors of at least 3 mm;
joinery clamps.

The clamps required to squeeze the plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have quality tools, you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made jigs. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instruction

To make a tabletop, cut two pieces with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of the maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece of 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you get two pieces of 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.
High-quality adhesion ensures the clamping of the countertop parts with clamps

To glue properly plywood sheets, they are folded, turning their convex sides to each other.
Laying one piece on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use a straight and notched trowel. Remember that the work must be done very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to seize prematurely. The manufacturer of the Moment Carpenter glue recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of the application of the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue that has no time limit. Of course, the bond strength will be slightly reduced, but even good quality PVA furniture mix will provide an acceptable degree of adhesion.
To avoid damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps.
Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table top and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It is not possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, therefore, in this part, you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
You can glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.
After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and the side surfaces of the countertop are reinforced. For this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued along the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When doing this work, be sure to ensure that upper layer completely overlapped the joining points.
Reinforcement of the sides of the bench table with additional plywood strips
A circular saw is used to trim the side surfaces of the table. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The size of the tabletop is 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
The workbench supports are made of a bar with a cross section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber is used with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.
Making a frame for a joinery workbench
The legs are assembled "in a thorn" or using dowels, always applying wood glue to the parts to be joined.
When assembling the upper and lower frame of the pedestal, the angles of 90 degrees between the parts are scrupulously maintained. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The frame width of our facility is 900 mm and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom stalk of 150 mm.
Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, you can build a shelf in the podstachye. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

It is impossible to imagine a real carpentry workbench without devices designed for fixing workpieces to be processed. For this purpose, a vice is attached to the finished countertop in such a way that their lips are flush with the surface of the lid. To correctly install the fixture on the workbench, the vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes are drilled with a diameter of 12 mm and the tool is installed on the machine using bolted connection with M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View of the finished product with the installed vice

If it is not possible to install a stationary vise, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vice, there are stops on the desktop. To do this, a number of holes are drilled in the tabletop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. The sockets for the supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vice. This will allow you to securely fix any size workpiece.

Video: Do-it-yourself joiner's workbench

Building a joinery workbench is a rather difficult task. Nevertheless, a self-assembled machine tool will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only thinking over the ergonomics of the working space and correctly preparing the project of the structure, but also performing the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then will the resulting product be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.

The garage, which is equipped with a locksmith's workbench and associated tools, transforms from a storage place for a car into a full-fledged workshop. Using this equipment, you can perform a variety of repair and household work, fix household appliances and design furniture.

In this article we will talk about how to make a workbench with your own hands. Their varieties and design will be considered, a list is given necessary tools and materials, as well as presented step-by-step instruction for the performance of work.

1 What is a workbench?

A workbench is a table designed for manual or tool processing of parts made of wood and steel, on which you can carry out electromechanical and any types installation works... To expand the functionality, the workbench can be equipped with auxiliary devices - vices and stops; it is also useful to have compartments (shelves, boxes) for storing tools and accessories.

The standard height of the workbench varies between 90-100 cm (depending on the height of the master), the width is 70-80 cm, the length is from 120 to 150 cm.There are also adjustable work tables, the height of which can be changed in the range of 50-150 cm - they are more convenient, however, it is rather difficult to make such a workbench with your own hands.

There are 3 types of workbenches:

carpentry;
carpenter;
locksmith.

A homemade locksmith-type workbench consists of a frame (made of a square profile) and a wooden tabletop 25-30 mm thick. A powerful tabletop is an obligatory attribute of a locksmith's workbench; for additional protection, it is advisable to cover it with a sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 1-2 mm. In this case, the tabletop will be able to withstand hammer blows and other mechanical influences without any problems.

Other types of workbenches are fundamentally different from the considered design - the carpentry table is long (up to 6 meters), it is equipped with special stops for fixing the workpieces being processed. The dimensions and structure of a joiner's workbench are similar to those of a locksmith's, however, its tabletop is designed for manual work and does not imply the possibility of various fastening of workpieces, which limits the variability of using the power tool.

1.1 Guide to making a workbench (video)

2 We make a workbench in the garage with our own hands

Since the locksmith's workbench is the most versatile and compact option, it makes sense to use it for installation on a balcony or in a garage. There are a lot of typical designs of such tables, some diagrams are given in this article, however, it is best to select the size and design of the table individually. When drawing up a drawing, take into account what work will be carried out on the table and what dimensions of the workbench will be optimal for their implementation.

To make a metal workbench with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

corner 50 × 50 (thickness 5 cm) - length 6.5 meters;
corner 60 × 40 (3 mm) - 25 m;
corner 40 × 40 (4 mm) - 7 m;
metal strip 4 mm - width 45 mm, length 8 m;
sheet for the table top 2 mm - dimensions 220 * 75 cm and similar dimensions board 40 mm thick;
guides and plywood for boxes 15 mm thick (size depends on the number of boxes);
self-tapping screws, screws, bolts;
acrylic paint.

The above materials are designed for a homemade workbench 220 cm long and 70 cm wide. Such dimensions allow you to optimally distribute equipment on the tabletop - a vice and a circular saw so that they do not interfere with each other during work.

From a power tool for work, you need a grinder, a jigsaw, a drill, a screwdriver and a welding machine. Also prepare a level, tape measure, sandpaper, paint brushes, and a metal brush.

DIY metal workbench - step by step instructions:

In accordance with the drawing, we cut the steel profile and strip into pieces of the required dimensions. The corner will be used for the construction of the load-bearing frame, the strip - for the installation of guides for attaching the side panels of the table.
Using a welding machine, we connect the power frame, initially welding the upper rectangle of the tabletop - for this, two pipes 220 and 70 cm long are used.Inside the rectangle with a step of 40 cm, transverse stiffeners are welded, and a corner is fixed at the upper end, in which it will be located wooden table top... Next, lateral legs 90 cm long are welded to the upper part, which are reinforced with belts coming from the central lintels.
After the base part of the frame is ready, it is necessary to weld the panel for the power tool, it can be made folding, however, the fixed structure is more reliable. A 220 cm long corner and four 95 cm segments are used as load-bearing elements for the panel. Two of them are fixed in the central part of the frame, two more - along the edges, after which a long corner is welded along their upper contour.
It remains to bring the frame to mind - you need to weld strips to the load-bearing elements for further sheathing with plywood, then you will need to strengthen the frame with jumpers in its corner parts.
When making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you cannot neglect the installation of boxes, since their presence will make the table more convenient to use. The boxes are made of 15 mm plywood, which is cut to size and connected with screws; guide elements are fixed on the side walls of the structure.
Before laying the boards of the countertop, the wood must be covered with an antiseptic, which will significantly extend its service life. Boards can be laid along or across the frame (depending on their length), after which the surface of the table top is sanded and covered with a steel sheet, which is fixed with self-tapping screws and painted.
Next, we install the boxes, fixing them with guides bolted to the table with bolts. Several open shelves can be made on the opposite side of the table; they are quite practical and convenient.

A compulsory attribute of a locksmith's table is a vice for the workbench, which is placed in one of the corners of the tabletop. The vise is fastened with anchor bolts, it will be useful to place a steel plate 1-2 cm thick between the vise and the table top for more reliable fixation of the tool.

The functionality of such a workbench with a vice can be additionally expanded by installing a circular or miter saw, a stationary jigsaw or a drilling machine. Like the vise, each tool is mounted in the corner of the workbench.

2.1 Requirements for a homemade workbench

A locksmith's workbench is a design designed to work with cutting power tools and other potentially dangerous equipment, therefore, it can be operated only if the following safety requirements are observed:

making a mini workbench for installation in small garage either on the balcony it is necessary to ensure the maximum stability of the structure; if necessary, the table is rigidly fixed to the floor covering;
there should be no sharp edges and protrusions on the corners of the tabletop;
when installing a vibrating tool, it is necessary to use vibration-damping rubber gaskets;
the workplace should be regularly cleaned of chips and oil stains.

The construction of the workbench described in the article, with correct manufacture, capable of withstanding a load of over 200 kg. More desktop requirements can be found in normative documents GOST 20400 and GOST 22046.

If you are not confident in your skill and the instructions presented seem too complicated, the best solution will be the acquisition of an already finished factory workbench. The world's leading manufacturer of such products is Workbench (Germany), which supplies the market with a wide range of products, which includes large, compact and collapsible workbenches for locksmith, joinery and carpentry.

The cost of Workbench desktops varies in the range of 7-20 thousand rubles, depending on the size and functionality. For domestic use, the Worckbench 110 model is best suited - this is a collapsible aluminum table with pull-out elements for fixing power tools and accessories, which has proven itself among craftsmen around the world.

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