When self-erecting country house or baths on a strip foundation, in areas with a low level location groundwater it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands . This technology is the fastest, most economical and eliminates the need for special equipment.

In addition, such a floor structure has a higher reliability and durability than floors on the ground without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Features of laying the floor on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the device of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with a strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered detailed instructions, which presents the technology of concrete floor on the ground with step by step description execution of all technological stages of construction.

Stage 1: preparatory work

It is recommended to start work on the arrangement of the floor after the walls of the building are erected, window and door openings are closed and the roof is installed, and the average daily ambient temperature will not fall below + 5 ° C.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion:

1. To clear the plot of land within the boundaries of the foundation from construction debris and take off upper layer soil to a depth of 200-300 mm. Tamp the ground surface with a manual rammer or vibrating plate.
2. Make markings along the inner perimeter of the building walls by outlining the sub-floor reference level. Using the hydro level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
3. Perform sand and gravel filling on compacted soil, which consists of a layer of gravel, 50 mm thick and a layer of sand, 100-150 mm thick.
4. Moisten the surface of the pillow with plenty of water, tamp, then pour a thin layer of crushed stone with a particle size of 40-60 mm.
5. Lightly sprinkle crushed stone with sand, then moisten with water and tamp again.

Note!

When backfilling a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control using a building level so that all layers of the backfill are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Stage 2: pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the manufacture of a monolithic iron concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on all the main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced with a steel mesh, and its thickness must be at least 80-100 mm.

1. Waterproofing... Lay a thick polyethylene film waterproofing on the sand and gravel cushion so that it extends onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
2. Rebar strapping... On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
3. Fill concrete... Prepare a concrete solution and distribute it evenly over the entire area of ​​the room in a layer not less than 80 mm thick.
4. Alignment surface... Using a level, by measuring the distance to the marks of the finished floor, check that the poured surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely hardened. Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using a special power tool.

Note!

Everything engineering Communication it is recommended to lay before pouring the slab, but if this was not done in advance, it can be used latera cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels after solidification of the monolith.

Stage 3: insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of moisture and cold penetration, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, careful heat and waterproofing of the concrete floor along the ground is necessary.

Water-repellent materials and insulation are stacked in several layers:

1. Thick plastic sheeting can be used as waterproofing, but it is best to cover the surface of the monolithic slab with a layer of hot liquid bitumen.
2. Thermal insulation can be done in two ways: In the first case, a layer of blast-furnace slag or expanded clay 100-200 mm thick is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
3. The second option is considered more acceptable and consists in laying on the floor plates of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a thickness of 50-100 mm.
4. Expanded clay backfill must be distributed evenly, and the EPSP boards should be laid tightly, without gaps on the floor and fixed with dowels with wide plastic washers.
5. Another layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the insulation. from a thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Note!

Pouringconcrete floor in the garage on the ground,thermal insulation can be dispensed with, but high-quality waterproofing must be performed in any case.

Stage 4: installation of the concrete screed

The finishing screed is used to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing flooring (ceramic tile, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of this stage of work, because the cost of rework, in the event of a technology violation, may be too high.

How to pour a concrete screed:

1. Installation of beacons. Using cement or plaster mortar, install guide rails for beacons that determine the upper mark of the subfloor level over the entire area of ​​the room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other.
2. Pouring solution. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each floor area, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
3. Leveling the surface. To do this, you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
4. Floor screed. Thus, moving from one area to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
5. Grouting cracks. After the mortar has set, it is necessary to remove the guide beacons, and wipe the resulting cracks with fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until it finally hardens and dries. cement mortar... After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose, it is best to use an epoxy or polyurethane concrete primer, which must be applied with a construction roller.

• In clause 1, the recipe for the manufacture of a cement-sand mortar for a finishing screed is indicated.
• In clause 2, the recipe for manufacturing is indicated. concrete mortar for pouring a monolithic slab.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that self-production concrete floor in country house is quite within the power of almost any home craftsman.

To get more information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our site. I am ready to answer all your questions in the comments.

Underground floors, under certain building conditions, can be a more economical and more reliable option than other types of floors. What are these conditions? Obviously, dense layers of soil without organic matter that would serve as the base of the floors must be at an acceptable depth so that the backfill does not become too thick. The height of the layer of bulk soil (sand, crushed stone, as well as sandy loam and loam with a low standing groundwater) should not exceed 0.6 meters, since a large embankment will shrink too much during operation. If there are suitable geological conditions, it remains to make such a floor structure so that it reliably protects the living space of the house from damp and cold. First, consider the most economical option for flooring on the ground for a private house.

An economical option without a layer of insulation

It is recommended to combine the execution of any floors on the ground with external insulation of the wall, basement and foundation at least 1 meter below the floor level. This eliminates the freezing of the foundation as well as a significant bridge of cold from the building through the floors, soil and further to the basement-foundation and outside air.

The norms require a slightly different version of insulation - laying the insulation under the base of the floors along the walls in a strip 0.8 meters wide, while the heat transfer resistance of this insulation should be no lower than that of the walls. Those. the cold bridge is removed through the floors on the ground to the foundation.

Thus, the vertical thermal insulation of the foundation and the basement along the perimeter of the house makes the soil layer under the floor insulated from the street. The upper layers of the soil under the floor will be heated by the heat from the house, while the heat loss through the floor should not exceed the requirements of the standards. Of course, such floors cannot be called warm. Nevertheless, the structure has the right to exist without a special layer of insulation under the entire surface of the floors.

The figure shows a typical construction of joining simple floors along the ground and a wall with a foundation.
Here 2 is an unbreakable waterproofing.
3 - foundation and plinth.
4-5 - plaster layer.
6 - blind area.
9 - floor on the ground.

Heat assimilation of floors should not exceed the requirements of the standard - no more than 12 W / m2 * deg for residential premises. In other words, the rate of heat intake by the floor, for example from a person's foot, should not be too high so that the floor does not seem "icy". Therefore, materials with low thermal conductivity should be used for the flooring and screed in this structure. It is recommended to use wooden parquet, carpet, thick linoleum.

The screed is carried out in an economical version - a dry screed on a leveling layer of sand. A double gypsum fiber sheet is used. It is advisable to use expanded clay sand for such floors, in which the thermal conductivity coefficient is lower, which will only reduce the heat assimilation of the floor.

How simple floors are made on the ground

In general, the creation of economical floors on the ground is carried out as follows.

• Backfilling is done with soil, then with rubble large fraction... Each layer and crushed stone must be carefully tamped mechanically. Crushed stone is needed to create the required compaction density.
• Concrete preparation of the base of the floors is done - a layer of concrete from 6 cm, concrete of class B22.5. Before pouring the concrete, a polyethylene film is placed on the ground so that the ground does not instantly take water from the concrete.
• Waterproofing is laid - the membrane overlaps, wraps around the walls, forms an unbreakable hydro-vapor barrier with horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. The quality of this insulation is controlled first.
• Fill in a leveling layer of sand (perlite, expanded clay) with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm, but no more.

The diagram indicates:
1,2,3 - floor covering.
4.5 - dry screed.
6 - leveling sand bed.
7, 8,9,10 - pipeline in a metal casing fixed with dowels.
11 - membrane waterproofing.
12 - concrete base
13 - compacted soil

• The prefabricated dry screed is laid. - read more.
• The screed is putty, the floor covering is laid on it. The screed is made floating, along the perimeter it is separated from the wall with an edging tape in a gap of 10 mm.

It turns out to be a fairly simple but reliable floor that can be made in a private house and with your own hands.

A distinctive advantage of floors on the ground is that they do not require maintenance during operation, control of their condition, such as floors with a ventilated subfloor.

Version with solid concrete screed

These floors are distinguished by the fact that they are made durable mesh-reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 cm. It can be made in two versions:


• without heating on a layer of insulation, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 7 cm or more (it is recommended at least to reduce the total heat loss at home and reduce the heat assimilation (coldness) of floors);
• heated by a water pipeline, while the thickness of the specified insulation is recommended at least 12 cm, since the temperature difference increases. In addition, the heated screed must be made with the addition of plasticizers and fiber and broken into smaller fragments than a cold screed.

Additionally, you can read - overview article -




The figure shows the layers and construction of floors on the ground with a concrete screed.
1 - soil.
2 - bulk soil layers.
3 - a layer of sand and gravel.
4 - concrete leveling layer.
5 - unbreakable waterproofing.
6 - EPS insulation.
7 - reinforced cement-sand screed.

Creation of a base with a strong screed




Building rules

It is important to follow these rules when building floors on the ground.


• Layer levels are set, filling and laying are performed, observing the horizontal, guided by beacons ...
• To place cables and pipelines under the floor in a sand bed, a metal box can be equipped, in which the communication will be located.
• A seam is left between the walls and the concrete base of the floors, which is filled with a non-drying sealant. All technological openings at the floor level for all communications are also sealed.
• If you plan to install lightweight partitions (not requiring a foundation), then they can be based directly on the concrete base. In this case, the base in this place and the interface unit must be reinforced according to known technologies.
• When performing work, be sure to control the quality of each layer, since it will be hidden by the next and it will be impossible to eliminate the shortcomings. Establish layer control and acceptance at the construction site.

The general procedure for conducting work is as follows - first, a heat-insulated foundation is erected, its foundation pit is filled up, then soil, crushed stone is backfilled, and rammed. The concrete base is laid. Next, waterproofing is laid - over the foundation (horizontal waterproofing of the foundation) and over the concrete preparation of the floors, forming a continuous coating.

Usually, floors on the ground are made in conjunction with shallow foundations. To this topic -

In order for the house to be cozy and comfortable to live, it must have a high-quality, durable, wear-resistant, reliable and durable floor.

It is very popular when arranging the floor in a private house, it enjoys concrete pavement that do on the ground... This solution has a multi-layer structure and fully meets all the requirements for it.

It is not difficult to make such a floor with your own hands, but before proceeding with the work, you need to know the requirements that apply to a concrete coating made on the ground:

• the soil must be dry, dense and still;
• before creating a floor, you need to decide on the loads that it will withstand;
• the occurrence of groundwater should be no closer than 4-5 m to the surface;
• the floor must be waterproofed and insulated.

If the groundwater lies closer than 2 m to the surface, a cushion of rubble and sand is made without fail.

If you plan to install a floor heating system, when arranging a concrete pavement, be sure to leave a gap between it and the wall, which should be 15-20 mm, otherwise, during operation, the concrete base will be damaged.

Experts recommend equipping a concrete floor on the ground only if the house is constantly lived in and it is heated. In an unheated room in winter, the soil may freeze, the heaving forces will begin to act on the structure, which can lead to its destruction.

Main advantages concrete floor on the ground:

• simple and easy to install;
• high indicators of strength, reliability and wear resistance;
• high frost resistance;
• suitable for underfloor heating;
• low cost.

Do it yourself

If you decide to create a concrete floor on the ground yourself, you must follow the technology of its laying, use high-quality materials.

The creation of such a coverage includes the following steps:

• surface preparation;
• pouring the floor;
• finishing;
• cutting of seams and sealing.

Although it doesn't take a lot of money to create a concrete floor on the ground, keep in mind that this is a rather laborious process.

Such a coating has a multi-layer structure, which usually consists of the following layers: soil, sand cushion, expanded clay, waterproofing layer, rough screed, vapor barrier layer, insulation, reinforcing layer, finishing screed.

Preparatory work

When marking the zero level, it should be flush with the bottom of the doorway, using a laser level, marks are made around the perimeter of the room. The soil must be cleaned and compacted well.

Such a coating turns out to be multilayer and its thickness is usually within 35-50 cm. This must be taken into account and the soil must be removed to the required depth from the zero mark.

Soil compaction is easy to bring using a vibrating plate, but if you do not have one, then you can use a log or other heavy object.

The ramming is carried out until there are traces on the soil while walking. To level the surface, you can lay a layer of sand, which is also well rammed.

To ensure high waterproofing performance, you can cover the soil with a layer of clay... It is also rammed, and in order for this process to take place better, the surface is slightly moistened.

The clay layer will protect the floor from groundwater penetration. The next step is laying a layer of gravel, its thickness is about 5-7 cm, which is also well tamped.

To make it easier for you to control the thickness of each layer, pegs are driven into the soil, set at a level, and after backfilling is completed, they are removed.

In the next step make a sand pillow 8-10 cm thick, to make the sand easier to ram, it is also recommended to water it with water. In order to make a high-quality floor in a private house, when performing a substrate, its horizontality is controlled using a level.

Waterproofing and filling the rough screed

To protect the concrete floor from moisture ingress, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing work... Usually, plastic wrap is used for this, or you can take a waterproofing membrane.
The selected material completely covers the entire surface of the room, while the overlap of the canvases is at least 15-20 mm and the overlap on the walls should be 20-30 mm. All joints of the canvases are qualitatively sealed with adhesive tape.
Now you can lay the rough screed, since there are low requirements for it, they make it from not very strong concrete, the thickness of such a screed is about 40-50 mm.

Vapor barrier and floor insulation

After the rough screed hardens, you can proceed to laying the vapor barrier layer, for this usually polymer-bitumen membranes are used, but there may be another option.

To ensure the maximum thermal insulation characteristics of such a floor, it need to be insulated... For this, thermal insulation materials such as mineral wool, expanded clay, isolon, perlite, polystyrene and others.

Reinforcement

If it is assumed that high loads will be placed on the floor, then it is recommended to reinforce it. For this can be applied metal or plastic mesh , you can make it from wire and fittings yourself. The reinforcing layer is placed on props so that it does not reach the insulation 2-3 cm.

Installation of guide elements, formwork and pouring the finishing screed

To make the floor horizontal, it is necessary to install the guiding elements and make the formwork. The entire area of ​​the room is divided into equal sections and the bars are laid on the markings, which will be at a level with a zero mark.

For fixing the guides, a cement or clay mortar can be used. The formwork is made of moisture-resistant plywood and honeycombs are created, which will ensure that the pouring is exactly at the zero level.

To make the guides and formwork easier to remove later, it is recommended to pre-lubricate them with machine oil before placing the beacons on the floor.

To make the floor monolithic, it must be poured at one time. Concrete can be purchased ready-made or made by yourself. If you make concrete yourself, then this will require 1 part of M 500 cement, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone and 0.5 parts of water. All components are placed in a concrete mixer and mixed well to obtain a homogeneous mass.

Concreting the floor begins from the far corner, the concrete is leveled and tamped with a vibrator so that air is removed from it and voids do not form. To level the screed, use the rule. After pouring, the guides and formwork are removed, and the resulting voids are poured with concrete. Thus, the entire room is filled.

After laying the screed, the floor is covered with polyethylene so that it hardens evenly, this will take about 28 days. During this period, it must be periodically moistened with water, otherwise it may crack.

Attention!

If during the pouring of the finishing screed small flaws were revealed, then they can be eliminated with a small layer of self-leveling mixture, it will take 3-5 days for it to harden.

Finishing works

After pouring the floor, 3-7 hours should pass and you can start rough grouting with a trowel, after which finishing grouting of the concrete base is carried out... Since concrete is prone to cracking and to prevent this, expansion joints can be cut in it, which can be of several types:

• insulating, they are made near walls and in those places where the floor is in contact with fixed elements, they prevent vibration;
• shrinkage, they allow you to relieve the stress that occurs during the hardening and shrinkage of concrete;
• construction joints are made at the junctions of the new and old concrete floor.

The seams are cut after the concrete has hardened enough, markings are made and cut to a depth that is 1/3 of the thickness of the concrete layer. To strengthen the edges of the joints, they are filled with a sealant and the floor is left until completely hardened.

To make it easier for you to perceive the zero level, you need to pull a special cord along the markings. All preparatory operations must be carried out carefully and efficiently.

To reliably protect the floor from groundwater penetration into it, it is recommended to lay a layer of clay and tamp it well.

During the execution of work, after laying each layer, check its horizontality, then it will be easier to obtain a high-quality and even finish coating.

conclusions

You can make a modern concrete floor in a house on the ground with your own hands, but for this it is necessary to strictly observe the technology of its creation and perform all stages of work carefully and efficiently.

Done right, you have a solid, durable floor that is the perfect base for any topcoat.

Useful video

All stages of creating a floor on the ground

In contact with

Building a house is a long-term process and includes a huge number of works in various directions. This is the construction of walls, and the construction of a roof, and a lot of other types of work. One of the mandatory steps is filling the rough screed. It is necessary to create a primary base, on which the finishing or finishing screed will then be laid. A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, it involves a large number of works associated with its creation.

Creating flat floors in a new home is not the easiest thing to do. And it is the construction of a rough screed that is the main stage on the way to a flat base suitable for laying different types coatings. It ensures the reliability of the base and its strength. This is a rather laborious and time-consuming process, but at the same time it is financially quite economical.

As a rule, the laying of the rough screed on the first floors is done directly on the ground. And most often, an ordinary concrete mixture made from sand and cement is used as a base material.

However, absolutely simple process the creation of a rough screed cannot be called. The fact is that it involves laying several layers of various materials and several preparatory stages:

• soil preparation - it must be carefully compacted;
• laying of sand and gravel mixture;
• flooring of waterproofing material, insulation;
• installation of the very rough screed itself;
• installation of finishing materials.

Thus, the floor consists of several layers. And this design has its own name - the floor cake. It may also be present. Reinforcement is necessary to increase the strength of the screed.

Important! A rough screed can only be installed on dry ground. On a wet, full-fledged one, it will not work, since problems with waterproofing may arise. Also, a rough screed can be mounted only if groundwater is at least 4 m to the surface.

Also, during the installation of the rough screed, the floor heating system and other communications can be installed inside, if any are necessary according to the house construction project.

In general, a concrete floor on the ground in private construction is probably the most acceptable option for creating a foundation. It is often installed inside garages, on terraces, verandas, warehouses and others.

On a note! Most often, concrete floors on a soil base are settled where there is no extreme cold in winter period, that is, in the middle or southern zone of the Russian Federation. In colder regions, it is recommended to use wood to create the subfloor.

In the photo - crushed stone bedding

Main advantages

If we consider the main advantages of creating a floor on the ground, then the following can be determined.

1. Ease of carrying out all work. All in all, creating a floor cake with the right approach only takes a few hours.
2. High strength and resistance to deformation will ensure a long service life of the floor finish.
3. Such a base has good indicators of heat, hydro and sound insulation. Such a floor, even in cold weather, will not critically freeze through, which will keep the house warm and cozy.
4. One of the factors is economy. Arranging a rough screed is not as expensive as it might seem at first glance.

Thanks to all these advantages, many future home owners choose precisely as a base, and not created from any other materials.

Types of rough screed

Rough, like a regular screed, can be different types... It all depends on the laying technology and the materials used. It can be done both dry and wet.

Dry floor screed- this is a kind of multilayer cake, where the layers are vapor barrier (or waterproofing) material, expanded clay or sand, acting as a dry "pillow", as well as any leveling material such as chipboard, OSB, plywood or gypsum fiber, depending on the wishes of the owner of the future home. Often, the material can be laid not in one, but in two layers, while individual sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Wet screed It is made on the basis of a cement-sand mixture, which will be poured over previously laid other layers and carefully leveled. A waterproofing layer and insulation can be laid under it, without fail - a sand pillow.

On a note! There is also a semi-dry screed. If in the previous version the mixture during preparation and use will resemble sour cream in consistency, then in the version with a semi-dry screed it will look like wet sand.

Rough screed device diagrams

Depending on the level at which the groundwater lies, as well as depending on the soil level and the position of the screed relative to the foundation, several types of it are distinguished.

Table. Types of arrangement of a rough screed.

Type of screed	Description
Screed below ground level	This method is used if the arrangement of premises for storing food or warehouses is planned under the floor. In this case, the screed is located below the ground level, adjacent to the foundation.
Screed at ground level	It can be used both in industrial construction and in the construction of residential low-rise buildings. The screed is at ground level and is adjacent to the strip foundation.
Screed above ground level	In this case, the screed is mounted above the level of the foundation; it is most effective and expedient to use it in places where groundwater occurs quite close to the surface, in areas where the risk of floods and flows is high.

In general, there is no universal scheme for arranging a screed - depending on the project at home, it can be performed in any of the above options. However, it is important to accurately design the location and level even before construction begins. doorways, so that later you do not have to correct the mistakes.

Foundation preparation process

All work on the arrangement of the rough screed begins with a thorough preparation of the soil base. To begin with, it is important to identify the highest and lowest points, taking into account the level of the soil and the evenness of its surface. Determine their values ​​will help laser level... This procedure is necessary in order to evaluate the entire volume of work for yourself, as well as to determine how much building materials may be required.

It is also important to pay attention to thoroughly compacting the soil. To do this, you can use special construction equipment - for example, a roller or vibrator. The procedure is necessary so that in the future the soil does not sag significantly and this does not entail cracking of the rough screed, which, undoubtedly, will negatively affect the finishing coating of the floors.

After the soil has been carefully compacted, a sand and gravel cushion is laid. It can also be made of clean, washed and river sand. The thickness of this layer should not be more than 60 cm. In the latter case, a layer of gravel or expanded clay is also poured on top, which will make it possible to create a more solid base.

Attention! Before the soil is compacted, it is important to cut off the entire fertile layer, if any, from it. It can be used more worthily than burial under a house. The soil layer is removed by about 35 cm.

It is also recommended to fill the pillow not all at once, but in layers - for example, 20 cm each. In this case, each layer is well rammed separately. The procedure will make the base as dense as possible. Before tamping, the pad is moistened with water. The thickness of the expanded clay layer can be at least 10 cm. This layer is also separately rammed.

Prices for popular models of electric vibratory rammers

electric vibratory rammer

Rough screed layer and waterproofing

Another important step in creating a rough screed is its waterproofing. If you neglect it, the moisture seeping from the soil will "undermine" the concrete screed and as a result, the base will become unusable and collapse, or, at least, will last a very short period of time.

For waterproofing a rough screed, roll materials are usually used - others in this case will be ineffective. The ideal option is to use rolled bituminous material or a waterproofing membrane. Rarely, but still dense polyethylene is used. The material should be stacked in one large piece. If it is necessary to form joints (in the case of large areas), then they are carefully sealed - soldered or glued with construction tape so that water has no chance to penetrate to the base.

Attention! The waterproofing material should not have defects - holes, otherwise it will not fulfill its role.

It is important to lay the waterproofing material in such a way that it extends 15-20 cm to the walls. If necessary, after laying the finishing screed, the excess can be cut off. If the waterproofing material cannot be laid for some reason, then the final screed must be treated with coating materials that can resist the effects of moisture and retain it.

Thermal insulation

In order to keep the floors as warm as possible, it is important not to skip the thermal insulation step. Expanded clay, basalt cotton wool, extruded polystyrene foam are used as a material that helps to retain heat. The laying of the material is simple - the slabs or layers of any of them are mounted joint to joint, without gaps, on a surface insulated from water. Thus, it will be possible to obtain a base that retains as much heat as possible, which tends to leave the house.

Attention! After laying the insulating material, it is recommended to lay another layer of waterproofing. This will allow evenly pouring the screed and maximally protect the insulation from getting wet in case of flooding. Wet insulation often loses most of its properties.

The most convenient and simple option, but not the cheapest, is polystyrene foam. In addition to its thermal insulation function, it makes floors stronger. Polyfoam can also be used as insulation. In this case, the material of the PSB50 brand is used for garage and warehouse premises, and PSB35 for residential premises.

It is important to protect the foam from the ingress of cement on it, which can destroy the material. For this, the foam must be covered with plastic wrap. But at mineral wool there is one drawback that sometimes scares off builders - it tends to absorb moisture, which is why waterproofing measures must be carried out especially carefully.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is an additional reinforcement of the rough screed by laying a reinforcing mesh in it. This material, created from metal rods or plastic, is able to significantly strengthen the base and allow it to withstand maximum loads. The mesh is laid on top of the previously mounted layers on small props so that during the pouring of the screed it appears as if inside the cement-sand mixture, and not under it. If the mesh has not been raised, it will not perform its functions to strengthen the base. The approximate height of raising the level of the grid is about 2-3 cm. It is recommended to use a grid with a mesh size of no more than 10x10 cm. smaller size cells, the stronger the base will be, this is especially true in relation to the plastic mesh, which is also often used in construction.

Fiber for concrete screed- replaces reinforcement with metal mesh

Floor arrangement schemes on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• based on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• with support on the walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all rooms on the ground floor. Ground floors are cheap, simple and lightweight; it is also beneficial to arrange in a basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple construction, application modern materials, placing a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractive in value.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the floor insulation on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse from the floor on the ground if it is required to backfill with soil to a too high height, more than 0.6-1 m... In this case, the costs of backfilling and compaction of the soil may be too high.

Floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three schematic diagrams of flooring on the ground

In the first option concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig. 1.

After the concrete has hardened, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this version, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended floor on the ground".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of soil shrinkage under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the fill soil is more than 600 mm... The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk over time of significant subsidence of the filled soil.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig. 2.

The third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or the laying of wooden logs in the intervals between load-bearing walls based on bulk soil.

Here, the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The floor load is completely transferred to the filled soil, Fig. 3.

Exactly last option correctly called the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Ground floors should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against the penetration of soil moisture and gases into the premises - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of condensate water vapor inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structure.

Backfilling of a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion made of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the upper soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the cushion: sand, fine gravel, Sand and gravel, and at a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (no thicker than 15 cm.) compaction with water pouring of soil. The degree of compaction of the soil will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large rubble, broken brick, pieces of concrete should not be placed in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

It is recommended to make the thickness of the pad made of bulk soil in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can result in too much and uneven floor settlement.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capturing layer is made with a thickness of 20 cm.The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer there should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The upper layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm... in terms of heat saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm... foam. To protect the insulation plates and waterproofing films from pushing through, which in some floor structures are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before the start of filling dirt cushion it is necessary to lay the water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as the pipes of the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or to lay down cases for future pipe installation.

Floor construction on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• floor on the ground with concrete screed;
• floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed;
• floor on the ground on wooden logs.

Concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Ground floors are a multi-layer structure, Fig. 4... Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Lay on a ground pillow material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor are fixed separating edge layer from strips 20 - 30 thick mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 for crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for waterproofing. Radius of adjoining concrete to walls 50-80 mm... The concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For the reinforcement of concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber with a length of 50-80 mm and a diameter of 0.3-1mm... At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured over with water. Read:
4. On hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing are laid on the mastic or roofing material on a bituminous basis with the institution of each layer on the wall. Rolls are rolled out and overlapped 10 cm... Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be connected to a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of waterproofing and gas insulation thermal insulation slabs are laid. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic is also used, with a minimum density of PSB35 (living quarters) and PSB50 under heavy loads (garage). Polyfoam degrades over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (this is all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying the foam on the polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with overlapping sheets of 100-150 mm... The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by the heat engineering calculation.
6. Per layer of thermal insulation laying the underlying layer(for example, a plastic film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete of the floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 mm... executed from concrete of class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar is applied over the concrete layer from dry mixes of factory production with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. On the screed mount the finishing floor.

This is a classic flooring on the ground. On its basis, it is possible different options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Applying modern Construction Materials, concrete floor on the ground is often made without a layer of concrete preparation... A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for gluing roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base, impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this, a profiled film, is used, which is laid directly on the ground pad.

The profiled membrane is a polyethylene sheet high density(PVP) with projections molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g / m 2 and comes in rolls from 0.5 to 3.0 width m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sandy base, without deforming or shifting during installation.

Fixed in a sandy base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for placing thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without rupture the movement of workers and machines for transportation concrete mixes and solutions (excluding caterpillar machines).

The service life of the profiled membrane is over 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid down on a well-compacted sand cushion with the spikes down. The membrane spikes will engage in the pad.

Seams between overlapping rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The spiked surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation plates directly on it and concreting the floor screed.

If plates of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used for the installation of a layer of thermal insulation, then such plates can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill from crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this version, a polymer film of waterproofing is laid on top of a layer of insulation.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured from expanded clay, then you can abandon the layer of insulation under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250-300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make an insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400-500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, it will be necessary to lay a layer of 45 cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to tamp is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. In wet expanded clay, the thermal insulation properties are reduced. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete, large-porous without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Strong, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of large-pore, sand-free expanded clay concrete.

Floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated screed

In floors on the ground as an upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For living quarters of the first floor of a house more simple and cheap option there will be a flooring device on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is flood-resistant. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in damp rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

A floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 — Floor covering- parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Adhesive for parquet and laminate joints.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made of prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for screed assembly.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Pipe of communications (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Thermal insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base of class B15 concrete.

13 - Substrate.

The device for joining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Figure 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard undercoat.
5. Prefabricated screed made of prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersive adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base- reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam, calculated thickness.
12. Substrate.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outside wall.

As already mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and itself has certain thermal insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without underfloor heating).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig. 7. Necessarily in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, the insulation is laid with tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends rather strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge is formed in this zone. Through the floor, soil and basement, heat leaves the house.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The ground is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building rules prescribe it is imperative to insulate the area through which heat escapes. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two lines (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the outside of the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is not less than 0.8 m.(item 11 in fig. 6).

The thickness of the insulation is calculated from the condition that the general indicator of the resistance to heat transfer in the section floor - soil - base should be no less than a similar parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement insulation plus the floor must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

it minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the dimensions of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy-saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is necessary only in the case of installing underfloor heating in rooms or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat assimilation of the floor surface... Heat assimilation of a floor surface is the property of a floor surface to absorb heat in contact with objects (for example, feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. This insulated floor will feel warmer.

The index of heat absorption of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° C)... A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Concrete base slab, class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, rammed into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a cross section of at least, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on a waterproofing layer with a step of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or sliding the pads, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 width should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

Lags lie loosely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary ties.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based panels are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. Thickness of slabs not less than 24 mm. All joints of the slabs must necessarily rest on the joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of quality planks can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

Insulation can be laid in the space between the lags, if necessary. Mineral wool slabs must be covered with a vapor-permeable film on top, which prevents the penetration of insulation microparticles into the room.

Roll waterproofing made of bituminous or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers on a concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing pasting waterproofing, a longitudinal and transverse overlap of panels of at least 85 mm.

For ventilation of the underfloor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards should be provided in the rooms. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room cm 2 .

Wooden floor along the ground on logs along the posts

There is another constructive floor scheme - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig. 5.

Positions in Fig. 5 .:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Adhesive and self-tapping screws for screed assembly.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wooden leveling strip.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - The column is brick or concrete.
12 - Base soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground below the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "spree" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and underground part

The construction of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles requires a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Ground floors in a house on a pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, the underground part of the foundation is also required to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the supporting part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.