How can the garage door be raised. How to raise a garage door in a brick garage

How to raise the garage door - many owners think about it. Indeed, in the course of time, the structure itself shrinks, and the curtains wear out.

It is mainly for these reasons that the gate moves. In this article, we will decide how to raise Garage Doors... You will also have the opportunity to watch a video on this topic, and from the photo you can see certain moments of the work.

Why are there changes in the geometry of the gate

More recently, high-quality and competently installed gates (see) looked incomparable and pleasing to the eye. But over time, you begin to notice that the metal does not look the same as before, the hinges are landing, etc. Of course, it is necessary to take appropriate measures to solve such problems.

Gate raising methods

It is worth saying that in most cases you do not need to invite specialists, because everything can be done by hand. Therefore, the price of work will be minimal.

So:

If your gate is deformed, then to lift the sash from the hinges, you can use a special spacer washer, which easily solves such problems. It is necessary to remove the sash from the hinges, put on a washer of the thickness that you need on the axis of the lower hinge, and return the sash to its place.
Difficulties often arise with the selection of the puck, sometimes it is really difficult to do it. This means that you need to insert a ball into the loop. required diameter... Thus, you can get rid of slight distortion of the sashes, in addition, you can raise the gate, thereby making it easier to move on the hinges.

Attention: Do not forget that the material of the washer and the ball must be made of a harder alloy than the loop itself, because this is important.

Work must be done carefully: you must change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the sash. A simple way to solve this issue: you need to cut off the lower part with a grinder, then a rubber strip is attached. In this way, the gap can be closed.
Sash skew often occurs due to deformation of the opening. If you do not touch the opening, then using a simple method it will be possible to determine the skew zone on the sash. This often happens when the frame beam is not welded correctly. By tapping the beam, you can see the vibrations of the metal and determine the point where stress is generated. This is where the cut is made and the tire welded on.
If the garage door sagged and you need to increase the height of the opening, then know that here you need to be able to lay bricks. How to properly carry out this work, you can find out on our other resources.

Important information

There are some points that require the gate to be raised or widened, not due to material wear:

If you noticed that the new car does not fit into the opening, then you need to solve this problem. Of course, you can disassemble the top of the opening, thereby solving this problem instantly. After all, lifting the upper part of the opening is a rather difficult event, and not every owner will be able to complete it.

In the garage floor, grooves need to be hollowed out, the width of which will be 2-2.5 tires each, the depth of such grooves will be - 10 cm.This way, you can lower the entry level, which means that the roof of your car will no longer be able to touch the garage opening, which is what you wanted.
Talking about another car, I want to note that you must not forget about the height of the tires, so you must determine the gap between the car's roof and the upper frame. If you perform such simple manipulations, then know that now you will easily enter and leave the garage, knowing for sure that neither the car nor the doorway will be damaged.
But if you notice that the sheets have ceased to close the holes that are being made in place, then you must definitely lift the necessary sheets, then everything will fall into place.

Conclusion

Now you understand that, indeed, even the highest quality ones sometimes fail. This means that if someday you are faced with a similar situation and want to solve it yourself, know that it is necessary to perform those important stages of the work that we have mentioned.

Attention: Of course, you can conduct them yourself, but without having experience and skills in this area, you can achieve not the result you dream about. Therefore, you should not risk it, because turning to professionals, you will instantly solve your problems.

If you need to raise the gate, then know that there are several ways. They were discussed in our article, so as soon as you pick up necessary materials and tools, then you can safely begin to engage in the implementation of your plan. Only use high-quality metal for work. Otherwise, the effect will not last long.
As a rule, there is nothing complicated here, it is only important to observe the technology for performing such work and everything will definitely work out. But if you are faced with more serious problems, which are also associated with the garage door, and do not know how to solve them, then it is best to contact a specialist.

Having completed the work with high quality, later you will appreciate the fact that the garage doors will serve for many years to come, because all problems have been solved. So all that remains to be done is to make the right decision.

If you want to do this work yourself, you can ask your neighbor for help, because together, you will cope with it faster by lifting the upper part of the frame and increasing the gate, if, of course, there is a need for these actions. You have the instruction and you just need to follow it.

Due to the design features of the sash, under a hundred pounds of weight, in the open state from their own gravity and gusts of wind, they sag and bend so that it is almost impossible to close the garage door on a hooked and deformed frame, without straightening with our own hands. We have to raise the gate, remove and align the hinges.

The main problem with the garage door

Old structures of garage doors made of five-millimeter sheet metal are able to withstand a huge load, while the heavy structure was hung on a frame made of a T-beam up to 20 cm wide.It had to be lifted or repaired no more than once every 20 years, and mainly due to wear of the hinges.

It is almost impossible to lift the garage door or even just remove it from the hinges yourself, without the help of neighbors, therefore such work was always carried out by a team of at least three to four people. Modern garage doors have to be lifted and removed almost every couple of years, mainly due to thin metal or illiterate garage construction:

The foundation of the garage under the threshold beam sagged along with the wall, respectively, it became impossible to open the doors, the lower edge simply clings to the blind area;
The gate hinges are deformed or worn out, the leaf tilts appear;
The dimensions of the garage doorway do not allow parking cars with high ground clearance or a high cab, for example, Gazelles or VWT4, at worst, UAZ-Patriot.

Important! In most cases, in order to level or correct a defect, you have to raise the garage door and remove it from its hinges.

In-line gate repair

In the repair, two operations should be distinguished, completely different in terms of labor intensity and complexity of execution:

Raise one or both leaves, without dismantling the frame, pillars or body on which the garage door is fixed;
Overhaul or replacement of the frame, in this case it is necessary to disassemble the masonry and raise or remove the welded frame structure on which the sashes are hung.

Advice! If you do not have the skill of welding, it is better to entrust any replacement of the frame or sashes to specialists.

How to raise a garage door

The simplest and most affordable procedure, if you have the skill, you can try to lift even a very heavy sash alone. For example, if the wear of the friction surface of the hinges has reached its limit, and the garage doors begin to cling to the upper edge of the blind area, it is necessary to insert repair washers. At the same time, note that it will be correct to install two thin steel washers made of hardened polished steel. The total thickness of the washers should be such as to increase the height of the garage door leaf above the threshold beam. Each washer has a cutout for the width of the pivot axis of the hinge and is lubricated on one side only.

In this case, there is no need even to lift and remove the garage door, it is enough just to raise them to a height of several millimeters in order to insert a pair of steel washers into the resulting gap in the hinges. To raise the gate leaves, it is necessary to turn them out at an angle of more than 90 °, then install a wooden or steel wedge under the lower edge of the gate, as close as possible to the axis of rotation. A few blows to the wedge will help to raise the gate 2-3 mm. Then you can insert a rolling jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the loops are completely out of order, you have to lift and digest.

In the same way, repairs are carried out if, due to the deformation of the hinges or the frame of the garage doors, the sags have sagged. In this case, a jack is placed under the edge of the sash, as far as possible from the axis of rotation, and a jack is slowly raised, pushing the deformation of the loop or frame with a sledgehammer. If the sash has a wicket door, it must be fixed with bolts or a tie, but not removed. Most often, in 5-6 transitions, it is possible to align the gate, if not, you need to raise it to the maximum height, install the jack in a horizontal position with an emphasis on the opposite frame post and "squeeze out the geometry" of the frame until the beams and hinges are completely aligned.

Raising the garage door frame

The most difficult and time-consuming garage door repair operation is lifting the frame. The heavy steel structure is concreted into the brick sidewalls, therefore, before lifting the structure, it is necessary to make room for lifting and remove the gate leaves.

If the frame together with the doors is planned to be raised above the ground level due to the subsidence of the garage foundation, before raising the gate, you will need to knock out the upper part of the masonry into a brick or two, depending on the lifting height. With a perforator or a construction hammer and chisel, they knock out the cement from under the side racks of the frame and the threshold beam.

Using a conventional crowbar, pry the lower part of the frame and raise it by low height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, they similarly try to lift from the left and right edges. If the frame can be lifted, the side wedges are hammered in. They are usually placed on the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rolling jack up to 5 tons, and then raise the structure using a hydraulic mechanism.

Raise the upper frame beam in the same way. Most often, it is necessary to raise it if it is necessary to increase the height of the garage door without dismantling it. After knocking out the upper rows of bricks with a grinder, a piece of vertical racks is cut off from both sides together with the upper horizontal part of the frame. The cut is made above the welding points of the hinges.

The weight of the cut-off part of the frame is no more than 70 kg, so it is easy to lift it with a conventional jack installed on the threshold. A log or bar is inserted between the top bar and the jack and carefully raised to the desired height. After that, cut pieces from a similar material are welded into the resulting gap in the frame.

Conclusion

Lifting a heavy frame must comply with safety regulations. Often, when trying to raise the frame, a heavy structure heeled and overturned on workers, so experts recommend installing spacers and blocking cable ties.

There is a proverb "I passed the material, I passed everything." And yet, some garage "connoisseurs" like to assure that they made a "hard gate".

Competent engineers are aware of the simple truth - "tough metal structures No", and a shipbuilding engineer, hearing about the strength of materials, will grin and say that "Strength is a special case of Structural Mechanics, in which motion is not taken into account." This is us to the question of why it is sometimes necessary to raise the garage door. Now a little more detail on how to do this.

The main reasons for changing the geometry of the gate, or opening

General metal fatigue, subsidence of hinges, natural deformations after installation, subsidence of the opening (the frame in which the gates are mounted) for various reasons, some other factors (for example, in hot, cloudless weather a couple of years ago there were problems with thermal deformations of metal structures).

External causes that do not depend on the material part. We bought a higher car - it doesn't fit, we made a mistake in the lower gap - in winter, the gate is extremely difficult to open, one of the garage walls sagged more, which caused a skewed opening, and others, which are sometimes difficult to foresee.

In each of these cases, the decision is made individually, but we will consider several simple ways, which are available with a simple tool with an assistant.

Methods for raising (fixing geometry) of the gate

Sagging of the hinges, (the gate is deformed, or something else). A spacer washer can be used to lift (eg one sash). We remove the sash from the hinges, put a washer of the required thickness on the axis of the lower hinge, return the sash to its place. Sometimes it is difficult to pick up the washer, then we put a ball of a suitable diameter into the loop, where the hole is.
This method allows you to correct slight distortions of the doors, slightly raise the gate, and facilitate movement on the hinge. Very important! The washer and ball must be made of a harder alloy than the hinge itself!
The need to change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the flaps.
The easiest way is to cut off the bottom with a grinder, and then fix the rubber strip to eliminate the gap. Applicable if the sheathing sheet extends beyond the lower frame beams. If the gate is mounted so that the lower beam is at ground level, you will first need to cut the beam, then the metal, weld the beam into place.

By the way, in our practice there are constructions where the lower part (about 10 cm) is mounted on hinges, and when the gate is opened, it can be folded back.
Skewed sashes due to deformation of the opening.
If you do not touch the opening, then the easiest way to determine the skew zone (as a rule, the sashes do not close at the top or bottom), on the sash that does not give the bow we cut the horizontal beam, cut a few mm. With effort (you may need a jack), we press the vertical beam of the frame - we weld. Deformations of the sheet metal will be invisible up to gaps of 7-12 mm.

Be sure to weld the place of welding with an additional metal strip, since residual deformations will occur here! If this place is not strengthened, the weld will simply rupture over time.
The need to increase the opening height. Most difficult case, which will take time, the ability to lay bricks, additional equipment. How to do this can be found on construction sites. We'll look at a situation where the problem was solved more easily.

An example of a simple solution in a difficult situation

So, the new car did not fit the dimensions of the upper part of the garage opening. 6-7 cm in width of the car itself, 14 cm on the right - on the left, in the places where roof rails are installed (by the way, one of the most frequent reasons when it is necessary to raise the gate in height!).

Some garage craftsmen immediately advised disassembling the upper part of the opening, (reducing the number of rows of bricks is a generally accepted approach), re-welding the frame, thus increasing the height of the opening. In fact, it is very difficult to raise the entire upper part by 14 cm (2.5 rows of bricks), but this was not required. How the problem was resolved.

In the garage floor (concrete, as well as a drive with a slope of about 2 meters long), grooves were hollowed out 2 - 2.5 tires each, 10 cm deep. ... The bottom of the track was covered with corrugated metal fixed to the floor.
Using the example of another car (garage cooperatives are good because there is always almost the same car - in this case, without roof rails). Take into account the difference in tire height. We determined the gap between the roof of the car and the upper frame in the maximum unloaded state - 7 cm.
On the left and right, at the top of the opening, a 60 cm channel was cut out (the middle part was supported with beams, just in case). They knocked out several bricks, and scalded the resulting U-shaped slots with a channel, which was fixed into a brick.
We checked the calm check-in and check-out on the right car, making sure that everything was done correctly.
After that, it was necessary to slightly raise the necessary sheets, since the gate stopped covering these holes, which was done in place, after the sash had already been put in place.

This was the end of the work. They took three days, they needed the help of a neighbor in the garages, they did not have to struggle with the task of how to raise the entire upper part of the frame (at the same time increasing the gate).

We hope that when you are faced with a similar problem, this article will help you be smart, use simple solutions, and not try to solve the problem head-on, as experts from the Internet advise.

Source: http://VorotaGate.ru/garazhnye-vorota/kak-podnyat

DIY garage doors: how to make from a profile and how to raise a structure in a brick garage

Today there are a huge number of garage door designs. They differ in structural elements, as well as in the quality of filling. Someone gives preference to primitive models, while someone equips their storage for a car with more powerful systems.

Making a garage door with your own hands is a great option for those who want to equip such a structure with durable gates that are most suitable in size and filling.

What are the types of garage doors and is it possible to design them on your own without resorting to the help of professionals and not having experience in this matter?

Types of garage doors

There are several types of garage doors, most of which appeared not so long ago.

And before figuring out how to make a garage door with your own hands, consider the types of similar products:

Swing gates

Hinged garage doors.

The most ancient and at the same time reliable version of the gate. Such structures are installed everywhere: they can be used not only for equipping garages, they have earned the trust of many years of trouble-free practice, even in conditions of harsh operation.

The design of these samples consists of 2 leaves hinged in the frame. The leaves, if everything is assembled correctly, close tightly, without forming gaps between the frame. The mechanism of operation of swing gates is simple, but, as practice shows, it is very reliable.

Recoil type

The gate was first used at the beginning of the 20th century. By design, it is one sash that moves to the side parallel to the front wall. There are two-leaf designs. In this case, the flaps will move apart on different sides.

There can also be sliding gates that fold into several sections. A feature of the device of such models is the mandatory presence of free space for moving the flaps. Therefore, such structures are most often used to equip hangars and industrial premises.

Lift-and-turn mechanisms

Overhead gate design.

Their development and production in our country began to be engaged not so long ago. By design, this is one canvas that rises upward. The option is suitable for equipping a garage and arranging an entrance to a private plot.

Overhead sectional doors

Like the previous version, the models have appeared on our market relatively recently. They are a panel assembled from sections, which are refracted and moved up along the guides when the command to open the gate is given by the remote control or by the button.

The mechanism works due to the spring available in it and guides with a chain drive. One of the biggest benefits is space saving.

Roller shutter doors

Garage rooms are rarely equipped with such structures, due to their low reliability. Externally - aluminum plates, folding into a special box under the ceiling. Objects with security and access systems are most often equipped with similar structures.

When choosing a garage door, it is important to take into account not only them appearance, functionality and feedback from advertisers, but also other, more important indicators: strength, durability and the ability to work in specific climatic conditions.

As mentioned earlier, swing-type gates will become the most reliable and durable option: they work even in any frost and are able to protect the room not only from frost, but also from burglary, if equipped with a solid locking system.

Do-it-yourself gate: features of the work

Based on the fact that swing gates are most often used to equip garages, consider, for example, how to make a simple, but very reliable design do it yourself.

Features of welding garage doors.

Having purchased all the necessary consumables and having prepared some tools, you can make a swing garage door on your own from start to finish.

For their device, the following materials will be required:

steel corners;
profiles;
metal sheets.

The dimensions of the gates and their features can be designed in advance, which makes it possible to make a structure that is most suitable for the parameters of the building and the aesthetic preferences of its owner.

You can try to make a lift-and-turn gate on their own, but the work requires a lot of engineering experience and knowledge. In this case, it is important to understand how the counterweight system is organized and the mechanism itself is installed so that the system works flawlessly.

Most often, structures of this type are purchased ready-made, and their installation is carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the product.

Therefore, if there is a desire to equip your garage with just such a system, then it is advisable to purchase an already finished product.

And now let's take a closer look at the specifics of the manufacture of swing garage doors.

Garage door design

Drawing of a gate with a door for the garage.

As with the organization of any construction business that requires high precision, before proceeding with the manufacture of garage doors, it is necessary to make a draft of the future structure.

It is not difficult to make a drawing of a garage door on your own, it is enough to sketch a sketch on a regular sheet of paper, measure all the important elements and indicate the location of the hinge connections, the entrance, if it is supposed to be a project, and the lock system.

First, you should choose the right height and width of the structure. The minimum width of the flaps is considered, at which the distance from the car body on both sides to the frame remained at least 30 cm. Of course, the larger this gap, the easier and more convenient it is to drive a car into the garage.

In practice, the maximum frame width is 5 meters. Most often, the gate is made with a width of 2.5-3 meters.

The height of the products is selected depending on the dimensions vehicle... Most often it is 2-2.2 meters. If a minibus is stored in the garage, then it is better to expand this parameter to 2.5 meters.

In our case, the structure will consist of a frame and a pair of sashes fixed to it by means of hinges. Guided by the project and the dimensions indicated on it, we calculate and purchase required amount consumables.

Gate frame manufacturing

It is best to start making the frame at the stage of erecting the walls of the garage structure. This will allow the gate to be fixed in the body of the building, which will make the whole structure more reliable and durable.

In the process of laying the front wall, when up to 0.5 m of masonry is ready, construction works suspended and retrained for the installation of the door frame, after which you can continue to erect the walls.

To make a frame, you will need steel corners of 65 mm, strips 2-3 cm wide, 3-4 mm thick and a reinforcing bar, with which the frame will be fixed in the opening of the structure. As for the tools, the work requires a grinder, a square, a building level, a tape measure and a welding machine.

The garage frame in our case consists of an external and an internal part.

The manufacturing algorithm for this structural element is as follows:

We cut the corner with a grinder into 4 segments with a length equal to the width of the gate opening.
You will also need 4 more segments with a length equal to the height of the doorway.
We place the cut parts of the corner on a flat surface, having checked it in advance with the building level for skewing, which is unacceptable at this stage of the construction process.
We measure all the angles - they should be equal to 90 ° and with the help of a welding machine we weld them together. As a result, you should get an even frame. The corners are welded either overlapping, or by cutting off their edges and butt-to-butt welding. The first option, in comparison with the second, is more durable.
WITH outside frame, carefully remove all welding flaws using a grinder.
Otherwise, the protruding seams will prevent the sash from adhering snugly to the frame.

Sash frame manufacturing

Next, we move on to making the frame of the gate leaves. It should be slightly smaller in terms of the dimensions of the garage door frame itself, which will ensure its easier entry into the opening. Compliance with this condition contributes to a tighter fit of the sashes to the outer side of the frame.

The algorithm for manufacturing the frame part of the shutters consists in performing the following actions:

First of all, it is necessary to cut 4 pieces from the corner or profile along the length, less than the height of the frame by 1-1.5 cm.
Thanks to this gap, the sashes will easily enter the opening. Since this design assumes the presence of two sashes, then 4 more horizontal segments are required, with a length equal to the width of the main frame, halved and minus 3-3.5 cm.
We place the cut parts of the corner on a flat surface, check them for skew, measure the corners and weld.
It is better if this process is carried out together with the already welded frame - so all the flaws and inaccuracies will be visible.
In order to strengthen the structure, we weld on a horizontal bar, which acts as a spacer and reduces the risk of slipping and skewing of the future structure.

Gate leaf manufacturing

Sashes are usually made of sheet material. The most practical and reliable is a sheet with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

Stiffening ribs for garage doors.

The process of creating gate leaves is as follows:

First of all, it is necessary to cut 2 canvases from sheet metal: one is 30-40 mm higher in height than the height of the garage opening and less than 10-20 mm in width of the frame width, the other is the same in height, and 20 mm more in width than the frame.
The next step is to weld the panels to the frame in such a way that the panels protrude 10-20 mm from the top and bottom of the frame.
One of the flaps, which will open in the second turn, should not fit tightly to the edge of the frame in width, leaving 10 mm free edge. Thanks to this, a tighter fit of the second section will be provided. On the contrary, we weld the sheet of the second sash in such a way that it protrudes beyond the frame part by 20-40 mm.
Next, we proceed to welding the reinforced hinges.
The lower half is welded to the main frame, and the upper half is welded to the sashes. In order to strengthen the fastening, the hinges can be supplemented with a welded metal insert. We take a strip with a thickness of 5-7 mm, bend it and weld it to the upper half of the hinges and to the sash. The reinforcement insert is welded from the inside.

Advice! During the welding of sheet material, it can be driven. In order to avoid skewing of the flaps, first of all, the corners and the middle of the canvases are seized by welding, after which the entire sheet is seized with point movements with a step of 10-15 cm.

If all structural elements are on a flat surface, the sashes are located on top of the frame, it is possible to consider whether everything is welded correctly and where there are any flaws. This makes it possible to take timely measures to eliminate inaccuracies.

If the structure is made with high quality, then after these works we proceed to the installation of the gate in the garage opening.

Gate installation

First of all, the door frames should be installed: internal and external. Recall that the frame part is installed at the stage of erecting the front wall of the garage structure itself. Do not forget to check the evenness of the position of the frame using a square and a building level.

After that, you can continue laying out the frontal wall of the structure, wiring the rods into the masonry.

Having reached the top of the structure, a floor beam should be installed on the frame. It can be metal or concrete - at the discretion of the developer. All that remains is to hang the leaves on the hinges and check the performance of the entire gate mechanism: how the leaves open / close, if nothing interferes with their movement.

Insulation and installation of locks, locks

Such structures can be insulated different material, ranging from foam and ending with mineral wool.

But lately, extruded polystyrene foam has been used more and more often for such purposes. It is fixed by laying lining or other facing material on it: it is enough to spread the insulation inside the doors and fill it with, for example, sheets of plywood on top.

It remains only to choose a locking system. Garage structures are most often equipped with a locking and locking system: one sash is locked from the inside with a lock, the other - from the outside with a lock, hinged or internal. If it is a padlock, then it is necessary to equip the sash from the outside with rings.

Outcome

If you adhere to the tips described above, carefully check the correctness of the dimensions, then it is quite possible to get a strong, reliable garage door that will serve you faithfully for a long time. The design makes it possible to insulate the gate by laying foam plastic from the inside and making a sheathing.

Making garage doors with your own hands takes about 2 days. In this case, the product will have a unique size and design, if there is a desire to make something special. Good luck!

Source: https://vseprogarazh.ru/etapy/vorota/garazhnye-vorota-svoimi-rukami/

How to increase the height of the garage door: a step-by-step master class - Mastremont.ru

Often, the height of the gate of an already finished garage does not suit the owner. Perhaps the person decided to buy a new car, say, an SUV, which is higher than usual. passenger cars, or it became necessary to use the garage for other purposes, when you need to drive a small truck inside, for example, a Gazelle.

But the gates for a private garage were previously created using a certain amount of metal in order to save money - the calculation of the amount of materials used was made taking into account the size of a standard steel sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm (photo 1).

Photo 1. Standard garage doors

Today, the height of garage doors for other owners has ceased to suit, and many have begun to increase this size (photo 2).

Photo 2. The height of the front wall allows you to build up the gate

Purchase of materials and choice of tools

Of course, you can invite specialists who will do it quickly and efficiently. However, not everyone has sufficient funds to pay the wage earners and buy the materials they use. Often, craftsmen demand the purchase of new metal, which is an order of magnitude more expensive than the already used one.

In turn, the owner of the garage can find the necessary rolled metal in an organization that collects scrap metal. The material selected from scrap can cost 2-3 times less than you have to pay for new rolled metal. At the same time, the strength of metal structures made of old metal is quite enough to ensure the strength of the finished product.

But it is not recommended to save on tools and equipment. Need to prepare workplace by setting the required height strong scaffolding- when performing work, a person must be in a stable position, which will exclude him from falling with a working tool and getting injured.

A hammer drill and an angle grinder must be powerful, and equipment such as drills and cut-off wheels must be of good quality, which will determine the speed of work and the safety of the worker.

For example, for a cut brick wall it is recommended to use special diamond cut-off wheels. For welding, it is enough to use a small inverter welding machine operating from a regular 220V network and welding metal with electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

I would like to add that such a job should be undertaken by a person who has at least a little understanding of how to use specialized equipment and has little practical skills in using such tools.

Tools and equipment

Construction scaffolding;
Powerful angle grinder;
Hammer drill or powerful drill;
Plumb line;
Construction level;
Inverter welding machine;
Welding mask (it is recommended to choose a mask of the "Chameleon" type);
Welding gloves and preferably a welding suit;
Two cutting wheels for metal;
Cut-off wheels for concrete, one of which has a maximum diameter (photos 3 and 4);
Drill for metal d = 8.5 mm;
Drill for concrete d = 8 mm;
MP3 electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm, although you can work with 4 mm electrodes;
Hammer;
Bit;
Open-end / ring spanner 13 for anchor bolts;
Polyethylene film to protect the garage from dust;
Respiratory protection respirator;
Special goggles that protect the eyes from dust and small stones formed when making channels under the new gate frame;
Clothing that maximally protects areas of the body from dust.

Photo 3. A set of cutting wheels for concrete

Photo 4. Cutting wheel for concrete of maximum diameter

Materials (edit)

Corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm for extending the door frame (focus on the corner from which the frame has already been made);
Corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm for the door frame;
Trimming sheet with a thickness of 2-2.5 mm.

The amount of rolled metal and the size of the sheet are calculated based on the area by which the gate will increase.

Procedure for building up the gate

The scaffolding is being installed firmly and stably.

The outline of the new garage door frame is outlined.

Inside the garage, a plastic film is fixed in such a way as to exclude the dust generated during operation from entering the room.

A corner is cut, prepared for building up the door frame, with a mark of each segment about its location in the structure.

Cut in progress brickwork garage walls along the contour of the new door frame, first outside the garage. It is better to make a horizontal cut of the wall along the seam located between the bricks (photo 5), which will facilitate the even laying of the channel and the further removal of the excess masonry array.

Photo 5. Sawing through the masonry seam

The vertical cut is carried out along the outlined contour (photo 6) with a maximum deepening in existing part frames for ease of installation of the new design (photo 7).

Photo 6. Drank along the outlined contour

Photo 7. Recess in the frame

The sufficiency of the groove depth is checked by the segment remaining when cutting a corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm (photo 8).

Photo 8. Checking the depth of the groove

After the cut is completed from the outside (photo 9), the corner pieces for the frame are installed (photo 10) with careful welding of the seams at the joints of the segments (photo 11). When setting the corner pieces, it is advisable to check their location using a plumb line and a building level.

After checking, the structural elements are fixed in some way, after which the seams are welded.

In the case of the extension, which is shown in the photographs, the gate was installed incorrectly during the construction of the garage, which had to be compensated for by adjusting the newly created frame and sash structure, which will be especially noticeable in the photographs with the already enlarged gate. When performing welding work, it is recommended to have a fire extinguishing agent near.

Photo 9. The cut is ready

Photo 10. Installation of segments for the frame corner

Photo 11. It is necessary to carefully weld the seams at the joints of the segments

For better attachment to the existing masonry of the structure being created, it is advisable to use anchor spacer bolts (photo 12).

Photo 12. Under these conditions, it is best to use anchor spacer bolts.

The diameter of the bolts used is 8 mm with a length of 60 mm (photo 13). It is enough to fix the horizontal piece of the corner in four places. First, a hole is drilled in the corner to the brickwork with an 8.5 mm drill for metal, and then the hole for the anchor bolt is deepened with a drill on concrete by 8 mm to the desired depth. After that, the anchor bolts are inserted and the structure is attached to the wall.

Photo 13. Anchor spacer bolts 60 mm long and 8 mm in diameter

After assembling and fixing the new structure from the outside, the necessary cuts of the wall are made from the inside, after which the elements of the door frame are assembled in the same order and fastened from the inside.

The next stage is the preparation of parts for building up the sashes. For this, the existing sheets are cut and the corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm is cut into pieces of the required length.

Next, the fabric of the stacked section of each of the gate leaves is assembled. The assembled sections of the canvases are butt welded from above to the gate leaves, and for fixation they are stuck to the new section of the frame by spot welding in several places (photo 14).

Photo 14. Assembling the blade and fixing it to the frame by spot welding

After that, the excess brick is removed from the inside of the garage, gently chipping off a chisel and a hammer using tools. Before removing the excess sections of the wall, it is also necessary to fix the inner part of the expandable structure of the door frame with anchor bolts (photo 15).

Photo 15. The inner part the canvases must also be secured with anchor bolts

When unnecessary pieces of the wall are removed, additional strengthening of the frame structure and reinforcement of the incremental part of the gate leaves with the frame are performed (photo 16). All new structural elements that increase the size of the gate are carefully welded, since the strength of the finished product depends on this.

Photo 16. The whole structure is carefully welded

The bottom gate locks are adjusted in place when new elements are added to the existing frame (photo 17). Then the floor is poured to the required level, or the door frame is fully extended from below.

Photo 17. Fitting the lower constipation

The upper gate locks are built up and adjusted along the upper edge of the enlarged frame (photo 18).

Photo 18. Extension and adjustment of the upper constipation

On the outside of the gate, the upper hinges are cut and welded higher due to the increasing size of the canvases (photo 19 and 20).

Photo 19. Changing the place of attachment of the hinges from the outside (right side)

Photo 20. Changing the place of attachment of the hinges from the outside (left side)

The final stage is painting the gate with a special paint (photo 21). It is recommended to use a coloring composition that performs three functions - the paint replaces the primer, converts rust if necessary and creates a paint-and-varnish protective layer on the metal.

Photo 21. New painted gate

If a person has little skills in working with a special tool for concrete and has an idea of welding, then he will be able to build the gate on his own, thus saving significant funds from the family budget.

When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the doors above the ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, you have to raise the garage door in a brick garage higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate

When it comes to the need to raise the gate, it is about swing structures. For folding structures, there is no such problem, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to raising the gate:

wear of the hinges;
deformation of the frame;
incorrect design;
violation of the integrity of the foundation;
vehicle replacement.

Old gate structures are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 millimeters or more. By itself, such a gate design is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be the poor quality metal of the hinges. The rods lose their strength and the flaps partially tilt forward. This makes it difficult or impossible for the gate to close normally.

Another reason why the gate needs to be lifted is the wear of the metal corner. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but to save money, small corners are used, which begin to deform from constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is violated, which leads to problems with the gate. When properly designed, swing gates are never placed flush with the ground. Even with correct installation this approach can be a problem in winter. The metal can deform under the influence of low temperature and the sash will not open, since it will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself at a low gate level is precipitation. If a significant amount of snow falls in winter, then you have to work hard to clear the space near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. With heavy rainfall, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has a viewing hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movement, there may be a problem with the deformation of the lower part of the frame. This also leads to the need to raise the gate. Walls can also deform, which lead to the collapse of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

In-line gate repair

In the repair, two operations should be distinguished, completely different in terms of labor intensity and complexity of execution:

Raise one or both leaves, without dismantling the frame, pillars or body on which the garage door is fixed;
Overhaul or replacement of the frame, in this case it is necessary to disassemble the masonry and raise or remove the welded frame structure on which the sashes are hung.

Advice! If you do not have the skill of welding, it is better to entrust any replacement of the frame or sashes to specialists.

How to raise the garage door with your own hands

In this case, there is no need even to lift and remove the garage door, it is enough just to raise them to a height of several millimeters in order to insert a pair of steel washers into the resulting gap in the hinges. To raise the gate leaves, it is necessary to turn them out at an angle of more than 90 O , then install a wooden or steel wedge under the bottom edge of the sash, as close as possible to the axis of rotation. A few blows to the wedge will help to raise the gate by 2-3 mm. Then you can insert a rolling jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the loops are completely out of order, you have to lift and digest.

Raising the garage door frame

With an ordinary crowbar, they pry the lower part of the frame and raise it to a small height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, they similarly try to lift it from the left and right edges. If the frame can be lifted, the side wedges are hammered in. They are usually placed on the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rolling jack up to 5 tons, and then raise the structure using a hydraulic mechanism.

Conclusion

Rarely does a purchased major garage completely suit the new owner. In addition to cosmetic repairs and insulation, many motorists undertake a complex and time-consuming procedure for replacing the gate, while trying to increase the opening of the garage door. Cutting and removing old garage doors is not a problem; it is more difficult to replace them so as not to cause subsidence or collapse of beams or floor slabs.

How to increase the size of the gate without dismantling the roof

The complexity of the procedure for increasing the opening directly depends on the structure of the roof and ceiling of the garage. Before trying to enlarge the garage opening, you should understand the roof structure and find out how much the garage door width should be. Most often, three main schemes for arranging the supporting roof frame are used:

On brick or cinder block walls, cross-beams are laid, steel or wood. Lathing, insulation and waterproofing are laid on the beams. In this case, it is possible to increase the doorway without major alterations to the front wall of the garage;
The case when, instead of beams in the transverse direction, lightweight hollow cores are laid on the side walls iron concrete plates overlap. In this case, the weight load supporting structure the roofs are placed on the side walls, so a relatively small part of the load falls on the brickwork;
The most difficult option is the case when concrete slabs are located in the longitudinal direction. In this case, the floor slabs largely rest on the front wall of the garage, which does not allow the simultaneous removal or destruction of several rows of bricks between the door frame and the floor slab.

For your information! The situation can be simplified by the presence of a concrete lintel above the garage door. Competent builders in this way, during the construction of the garage, transferred part of the load from the floor slabs to the side segments of the wall.

If there is no serious load on the front wall and garage doors, expanding the size for replacing the frame can be a very simple operation. To do this, with a cutting wheel on a stone, it is necessary to make an incision along the measured vertical border of the new opening and chip off a part of the brick wall with perforators. Today, instead of the old garage doors of 250 cm, an entrance structure with a width of 270 cm is increasingly used.

Expansion of the garage door opening

It is much more difficult to enlarge the opening if the upper rows of bricks above the frame and the trap itself bear a certain load from the weight of the floor slabs. In this case, it is possible to change the height or increase the width of the opening only by installing additional unloading beams:

Option one - to increase the size of the garage entrance using a steel I-beam as a temporary fastening;
Option two - cut a niche in the brickwork above the frame for the installation of a reinforced concrete lintel and use it as a transverse beam holding the bulk of the slabs;
Use steel corners for assembling a horizontal crossbeam that holds the weight of slabs and brickwork during the "redrawing" of the garage door opening.

For your information! All three methods are of the same type and imply the possibility of increasing the size of the entrance only after unloading the door frame.

How to widen and enlarge the opening with a steel angle

The given method to increase the size of the garage opening can be called the least traumatic and the cheapest, due to the fact that a relatively small amount of auxiliary materials is used in the reconstruction than in the method with reinforced concrete or I-beams.

To increase the size of the opening, first of all, you will need to install an additional horizontal split beam from two corners with a shelf width of 75 mm. At the initial stage, you will need to markup on the front wall above the entrance. We mark out the horizontal and vertical lines of the dimensions of the new gate.

Using a punch, cut out a groove in the wall with a width of 8 mm and a depth of the width of the corner shelf. First, a groove is cut from the inside of the wall. Three pieces of the corner are cut along the dimension line, which are recessed into the cut groove and welded with the letter P.

In a similar way, the groove is cut, then the corners are installed from the outside of the front wall. It turns out a construction of two corners, welded and fixed on the wall in the form of two letters P, edging the contour of the future gate. To prevent the assembled frame from falling apart, it will be necessary to increase the strength and rigidity by welding the transverse jumpers.

Disassembling masonry as a way to increase the opening of a garage door

Before welding the lintels, it is necessary to remove some of the bricks above the horizontal beam of the old gate. To do this, install a support from a thick log or bar in the central part. Only then can a part of the masonry bricks be cut out with a puncher, and a gap is formed sufficient to connect the corners of the new frame with jumpers.

Further, you can increase the size of the garage door opening. To do this, you will need to cut out the remaining brick from the masonry, through the knocked-out holes above the old beam, stretch two channels, under which additional supports from wooden beam... The horizontal beam of an old garage door can be cut and thrown away.

We got a new frame for the garage door. It remains only to strengthen the paired corners with overhead elements, if necessary, replace the channel on the threshold. Since for the most part new gates are sold complete with a frame and false elements, the easiest way is to insert the finished structure into the prepared frame from the corner, align vertically and horizontally, and then weld it to the base with electric welding.

Conclusion

A similar method to increase the size of the opening can be used if there are no more than 4-5 rows of bricks above the old gate, that is, the ceiling height is no more than 240 cm.For higher gables, the strength of two corners will not be enough, and more in a safe way to increase the opening will be the use of a remote I-beam as an intermediate support under the ceiling slabs.

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