Diagram of a wooden gate with your own hands. Do-it-yourself wooden swing gates

Wooden fence with gates and wickets- a traditional solution that does not lose its relevance. Beautiful and functional structures adorn many private houses and summer cottages throughout Russia.

Products are reliable and durable. At correct installation and timely processing with protective compounds, wooden structures serve for a long time.
Installation is quick. Professionals will assemble almost all fencing elements in a matter of days. Exceptions are electric wooden sliding gates and automatic swing gates. Their installation will require serious labor.
Wood is an environmentally friendly material. Fences do not emit hazardous substances and do not harm human and animal health. Modern protective compounds also make them safe.
The tree is easy to process. With a small set of tools and paints and varnishes craftsmen create interesting design solutions.

Wooden gates and wickets are integral elements of fences. It is these additional constructs that will be discussed in this article. We will tell you about the most beautiful and popular types of gates and describe in detail the process of manufacturing and installing typical structures.

Types of wooden gates

We will look at the types of wooden gates below. There are many simple and complex design solutions, however, the constructions are conventionally divided into 4 main groups.

Rack wooden gates

A rack-and-pinion wooden gate in the fence is the simplest option for organizing the entrance to the site. The structure is a frame with pickets fixed on it.

Photo # 1: wooden slatted gate

If you place the boards close to each other, you get a solid wooden gate. This design will protect your yard from prying eyes.

Photo # 2: solid gate

You can install such wickets yourself. Manufacturing and installation will not require serious financial costs.

The design can be made very attractive if desired. For example, carved wooden gates and wickets look beautiful and original.

Photo # 3: carved wooden gate

Wooden wickets with a frame

Wooden wickets with a frame frame are more complex and reliable structures. A wide beam is usually used for the manufacture of the base.

Photo # 4: wooden wicket door with a frame frame

Frames are not only made rectangular. Interesting curved designs are common.

Photo # 5: Wooden gate with a curved frame

To make such a gate, you will have to cut out the frame elements from an array of thick and wide boards or timber.

To fill the frames, slats, pickets, plywood, metal structures, forged elements and other materials are used. An interesting option finishing of a wooden gate - "herringbone". The transverse beams are attached at an angle to the curly vertical beams.

Photo number 6: "herringbone"

Wooden wickets with awnings

If you want to make an impressive structure, install large-sized support posts and build a canopy. The resulting structure will look impressive and solid.

Photo # 7: wooden gate with a canopy

Lattice and solid canopies decorated with green plants are popular. Such structures are called pergolas. With the addition of such a canopy, even simple construction turns into a beautiful wooden gate.

Photo # 7: wooden gate with a pergola

Wooden wickets with arches

Wooden wickets with arches never go out of style. Support structures are made from a variety of materials. An arched vault made of wood is the easiest to make. It is necessary to supplement the pillars with a semicircular bar.

Photo # 8: wooden gate with an arch

Do-it-yourself wooden gate - relevant or not?

DIY wooden gate - the best solution... However, it is relevant when you have time for production, processing, installation and design. Otherwise, contact a reliable construction company offering wooden fences with the installation of additional structures (gates, gates, arches, etc.).

Professionals will complete all stages of work faster and better. You will receive a guarantee of the reliability and durability of the structure.

Manufacturing and installation of a wooden gate. Stages of work

Let us consider in detail the preparation of the opening, the manufacture of a wooden gate, the installation and finishing on the example of a simple rack and pinion structure.

Important! Any wicket consists of a frame and materials filling it. After examining universal instruction, you can independently implement a more complex project.

Necessary materials:

timber 10 * 10 cm (for pillars);
timber 4 * 4 cm (for the frame);
everything you need for cladding (slats, pickets or other materials);
sand, cement and crushed stone;
bituminous impregnation;
protective and paint and varnish compositions.

From the tools you will need:

square, pencil and tape measure;
container for mixing concrete;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
drilling rig;
planer and rasp (if you purchased raw materials)
hacksaw;
rammer;
plumb line and level;
shovel;
the necessary fittings (awnings, hinges and latches);
screws and galvanized screws.

Stage 1. Concreting of pillars

Drill holes for the support. The optimum depth is 1.2–1.5 m. Fill the bottom of the holes with a mixture of sand and gravel (10 cm) and compact thoroughly. Treat the lower part of the pillars with a bitumen-based impregnation. This will protect the wooden structures from rotting.

Place the finished post in the hole, adjust the plumb line and fix the timber with a mixture of sand and rubble.

Photo # 9: installing a wooden pole

Make sure the support is vertical and fill the empty part of the pit with concrete. Install the second post in the same way.

Stage 2. Making the frame

The Z-frame is ideal for mounting picket fences and will resist deformation very well. The resulting structure will not sag.

Image # 1: typical scheme z-frame

To improve the appearance, make sure that the brace, horizontal and vertical bars are in close contact with each other. The gate will look harmonious.

Image # 2: detailed diagram wickets with a z-frame

Important! What the frame will be is up to you. The main thing is to make sure that the structure is rigid enough. Use long screws to connect the frame elements and tighten them at small angles.

Stage 3. Sheathing

For the manufacture of a solid wicket, fasten the boards closely, and to obtain a lattice structure - at a certain distance.

Important! To avoid problems, purchase the necessary sheathing materials only after making the frame. Calculate everything carefully and order boards of the verified width. This will save on the purchase of materials, reduce labor costs and create exactly what you need.

If you want to make a gate with carved picket fences, treat the boards in advance. Elements that are already fixed should not be stressed.

Use galvanized self-tapping screws to fix battens, boards and other materials. Their length should be slightly less than the total thickness of the frame and sheathing.

Step 4. Installation

Before installing the fittings, treat the parts of the posts and wickets with protective compounds. This will prevent wear and tear on the wood.

Screw the hinged hinges to the wicket frame in the required places. Secure the structure to one of the support pillars. Leave at least 5 cm of free space between the ground and the bottom edge of the wicket.

The final stage of installation is the installation of latches, handles and hinges for locks. Screw the elements in the right places. Locks of wooden gates are usually located at a distance of 90 cm from the ground.

Everything is almost ready.

Stage 5. Finishing and decoration

Treat the installed wicket gate with at least two layers of protective compounds and proceed with the application of the topcoat. Various paints and enamels will do.

Advice! Buy only high-quality and proven paints and varnishes of well-known brands. On the Russian market The products of Aquatex and Tikkurila have proven themselves well.

After the topcoat is dry, you can proceed to decorative design wooden gate. The constructions are decorated with green plants, carvings, original mailboxes and other interesting objects.

As you can see, the manufacture and installation of even a simple wooden gate takes a lot of time and effort. Implementation complex projects will require even greater costs. If you want to avoid them - order the required structure and its installation.

Buy a wooden gate

Buying a wooden gate with installation in a reliable construction company means getting a convenient service, project implementation in a short time and a guarantee for the work performed.

A measurer will come to your site, who will do everything necessary calculations... You will be able to conclude a contract on the spot.
Specialists will quickly make a standard or non-standard wicket that will ideally fit into the existing opening, will not sag under its own weight and will not warp.
Professional installers will fulfill necessary work quickly and efficiently. You will receive a guarantee for the installed structure.

If you want to take advantage of the above advantages, please contact the MASTEROVIT company.

Is a simple and stylish structure that looks great on the site. The popularity of the design is facilitated by the ease of processing and combination with other materials. Other advantages include: environmental friendliness and affordability. In addition, wooden gates are decorated with beautiful ornaments.

Variety of models

There are several types of wooden gates for private households:

Swing designs are the traditional option. They are made of two canvases that open in a certain direction. Functional option is a design when the flaps open inward. In this case, the view of the road is not obstructed.
Sliding structures are suitable for areas with little space. The product is a canvas that moves along the wall using special guides.
made from one slab that opens upward with a cord.

Selection of materials and tools

Spot welding in progress. In order not to break wooden surface, thin metal is enclosed.

Surface finish

When creating wooden gates to the dacha with your own hands, they should be processed. In this case, a varnish and a primer are used.

Alkyd varnishes are used for application to wood. They are of high quality. Acrylic varnishes are considered environmentally friendly. They are used for outdoor work, although they are intended for indoor use.

Finishing includes the following sequence of actions:

The wooden surface is sanded with sandpaper. You can grind well with a grinder.

Irregularities on the surface are putty with a special putty.

The top layer is tinted and polished. This will create a beautiful shade of the wood.

A primer is being produced.

A layer of varnish is applied. Once dry, apply a second coat. It will take a whole day to dry the varnish.

Forged gates with wood look great. For this, various forging elements are mounted on the structure. This is done before painting.

Before applying the varnish, the places of contact between metal and wood are treated with a sealant. This will provide a good seal.

When performing work, the surface is covered sheet metal... This will help prevent damage. The lacquer coating will create a unique shine on the surface without affecting its color.

The painting of the gates is carried out after their installation in place. To paint the product you will need: paint, a brush, gloves, cloth and a broom.

When painting, move from top to bottom. The upper part of the board is processed, and then the lower one. Custom-made wooden gates are more expensive than metal ones. The cost is influenced by the used decoration elements.

The cost of the gate consists of the size, quality of the material and the shape of the doors. The price of a wooden fence varies from 1,000 to 3,000 rubles per linear meter. It should be borne in mind that specialists guarantee the quality of work.

Naturally it will be cheaper self-assembly constructions. Just remember to use quality materials and have some building skills. In addition, you need to have free time.

If the site is fenced off natural wood then it is better to equip it with a wooden gate. This article will discuss how to builddo it yourself wooden gate.

When making a gate, you will need the following tools:

adjustable wrench;
hammer;
jigsaw;
brush;
electric drill with drills ø3 mm and ø10 mm;
chisel;
saw-hacksaw;
square;
plane;
roulette;
woodworking machine;
screwdriver.

In addition, you will need materials such as:

self-tapping screws (regular and with screw thread);
sandpaper;
protective coating for wood;
acetone;
bars 7x5 cm;
two bars 5x5 cm;
four garage hinges;
board 2.5x10 cm.

Now, after preparing everything you need, you can get to work.

Stage 1. Installation of poles

The gate structure will be attached to the posts. They must be installed correctly, with the most rigid and reliable fasteners. Even the slightest sagging is unacceptable.

Important! Attention must also be paid to the perpendicularity of the pillars relative to the ground, otherwise the geometric shape of the gate will be violated. When carrying out calculations, it must be remembered that each post must be laid in half a brick, and this width should also be taken into account during work.

Step 1. First, the place for installation is cleared and the places for the pits are determined. You can use a bayonet shovel or small drill to dig. The depth of each hole should be at least 1 m, and the diameter should be 10 cm larger diameter pillar (this gap will be filled with concrete mortar).

Step 2. Grinder cut pipes of the appropriate length, which are inserted into the holes made. The gaps are filled with rubble, after which the verticality of each pillar is checked using a plumb line. If necessary, the position is corrected. Crushed stone is compacted.

Step 3. A slurry of "three hundredth" cement and sand is mixed in a 1: 3 ratio. First, the dry mixture is stirred, then water is gradually added. After the solution has been brought to the desired consistency, crushed stone is poured into it and waiting for complete drying.

Important! You can pour a little into the solution washing powder- this will prevent subsidence and, as a result, greatly simplify the laying.

When laying, each seam of the lower row should be overlapped by the upper one so that the ordering is extremely strong. In this case, do not forget about the correctness of the angles, for which you can use the same plumb line.

To enhance aesthetics and drainage characteristics structures, each pillar must end with a cap. Such caps can be purchased ready-made or cut from galvanized steel sheet.

Step 5. After complete drying, the rows of bricks are embroidered.

Stage 2. Manufacturing of sashes

One of the options for assembling and sheathing the frame of the gate leaves
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Step 1. First, the beams are processed. From them you need to make blanks of the required dimensions. So, for standard double-leaf gates you will need:

two horizontal bars (bottom and top)
two vertical;
two for the central lintel.

Step 2. After cutting the workpieces, their surface is processed with a plane or woodworking machine.

Stage 3. Construction of the frame

The assembly is carried out with a one-sided tenon "on the mustache".

Step 1. At each joint, a pair of holes are drilled into which self-tapping screws are screwed in or pins from dried wood are inserted. For reliability, the latter can be pre-coated with epoxy glue.

The use of pins / self-tapping screws is necessary to increase the rigidity of the joints.

Step 2. An additional lintel is installed in the center of the frame, to which the structure skin will be attached.

Step 3. A jib is installed in each corner. For this, bars 30-40 cm long are used, the ends of which are cut off at an angle of 45ᵒ. When attaching jibs to the bars, self-tapping screws are used.

Important! If the gate is, say, 2 m high, then the frame should be calculated in such a way that the boards protrude approximately 20-25 cm. Based on this, you need to make a frame 1.5-1.6 m high.

Stage 4. Sheathing of the structure

Step 1. The boards are cut to the required size and then trimmed on both sides until a thickness of 20 cm is reached. The ends are processed in the same way.

Step 2. The boards are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws. The boards can be positioned either end-to-end or with a small step - it all depends on personal preference.

Important! If it was decided to leave small gaps between the boards, then for this you can use a template - a wooden lath, the length of which will be equal to the length of the boards for sheathing. In this case, the thickness of the template will correspond to the step with which it is planned to fasten the boards.

Step 3. After fastening, the upper part of the boards is cut in a straight line, the cuts are carefully cleaned with sandpaper.

Step 5. Installing the gate

Step 1. First, hinges are attached to the shutters, and in parallel, “wood grouses” are screwed into the bars with self-tapping screws. The sash is also attached to the pillars with "wood grouses".

Important! Before fixing the wood grouse, it is necessary to drill in the appropriate places with a depth of several centimeters. The hole diameter should be slightly less than the wood grouse thread. Such a simple move will greatly facilitate screwing in the screws.

Step 2. The distance from the bottom edge to the ground should be at least 5 cm. This can be explained by the fact that a new installation is possible in the future. road surface, and with such a gap, no reinstallation will have to be done.

Step 3. A metal pin or padlock is installed to fix the closed doors. The coating is applied after installation.

Step 6. Covering the structure

The finished gate must be properly processed, which requires varnish and a primer.

Important! When buying varnish, you need to ensure that it is intended specifically for outdoor use. In addition, you should inquire about the maximum operating temperature.

Step 1. The surface is sanded with sandpaper or grinder with a special attachment. All found "shells" are sealed with a special putty for wood, and after drying, the structure is re-sanded.

First, coarse-grained sandpaper is used, and after polishing, fine-grained sandpaper.

Step 2. The tree is toned. This will give the texture and the desired shade. After the tinting has dried, the surface is sanded again (with paper with "honeycomb" grain).

Important! It is imperative to apply a primer, otherwise some areas of the gate will not stain, bubbles and waves will form.

Step 3. Following the primer, the first coat of varnish is applied. Drying times should be indicated in the instructions. After this time, a second layer is applied.

Often the gate is decorated with iron forging - this is how the product looks rich. If you plan to use such forging, then this should be taken care of even before painting and grinding. At the same time, the tree is covered with thin sheet metal during operation to protect it from damage.

For better tightness, after applying the second layer of varnish, the joints between wood and metal are treated with a sealant. Indeed, sometimes it is impossible to achieve a snug fit, and such measures will prevent moisture from penetrating through these holes.

Everything, the wooden gates are ready, all that remains is to equip them with a wooden wicket.

Video - Homemade wooden gates

Wooden gate

Before starting work, you need to prepare everything you need, otherwise the lack of this or that material can stop the process, which is highly undesirable.

So, the work will require:

hammer;
mounting level;
hacksaw;
sandpaper;
pencil;
rope;
plane;
electric drill;
chisel;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
boards, picket fence;
iron corners;
self-tapping screws for wood;
fittings - hinges, handle, latch.

Wicket manufacturing technology

Step 1. First, the distance between the supports is determined. If done correctly, the wicket will work smoothly. Supports can be wooden posts or metal pipes(as described above).

The distance between the supports is fixed with a piece of wire laid on the ground and fastened with something.

Step 2. Support pillars are installed. The technology is no different from that of a wooden gate.

Step 3. Next, the door is made. For this, four boards are connected at an angle of 90ᵒ with metal corners. Then hinges are attached to the finished frame, after which it is checked for entry into the opening. If the result is positive, the frame is sewn up with a picket fence. From above, the gate is cut off with a jigsaw in a straight line (it is also possible in the form of waves, zigzags, etc.). The lock and the doorknob are the last to hit.

Step 4. At the final stage, the wicket is hung on the hinges, after which it is checked whether the door can be closed / opened freely. To fix the wicket in the closed position, a piece of rubber can be nailed to the end.

The wooden gate is ready for use.

Video - Beautiful ideas for wooden gates

As a conclusion

As you can see, for the manufacture of wooden gates or wickets, certain knowledge and skills in wood processing are still required. Therefore, if there is neither one nor the other, it is better not to spare the money and turn to a specialist. The gate is the face of the house.

But with a firm intention to do everything with his own hand, it remains only to wish good luck and masses creative ideas... You can familiarize yourself with another possible option - sliding gates made of wood - when watching a thematic video.

Video - Wooden sliding gates

Any private property, be it country house or a cottage that needs protection. A solid wooden fence is perfect for these purposes. But what kind of fence would do without a gate? The best entrance for such a fence is a wooden swing gate. A hand-made product will decorate even the most uncomplicated fence.

Advantages of wooden gates

Almost any type of wood can be used for the gate. But the service life different types wood is not very different. Many inexpensive breeds are very durable and will serve as gates for years.

The optimal choice for such a product is larch. Conifers are very durable, they have been used in construction for many centuries and only strengthen their position in this area. Larch wood is resistant to decay and moisture.

Despite the low cost and aesthetic appearance, wood has a number of significant disadvantages:

low strength;
short service life - from 5 years;
low resistance to fire.

Important! To improve the performance of wood, you can use various techniques, such as: combination of wood with metal, fire retardant treatment, etc.

Often, to increase the strength of the gate, their frame is made of metal. This not only improves the performance of the timber, but also gives the door a unique look.

Drawing

Before starting the marking of the material for the gate, it is necessary to measure the place for their installation. Even small discrepancies in size can be fraught with flaws in the work of the wicket. Therefore, all the drawbacks of the fence should be eliminated even before the installation of the gate.

Note! When designing a fence, remember to leave a distance between the shutters and the ground. This is necessary for the convenience of operating the gate.

The width of the future gate largely depends on the following factors:

Availability and make of the car. The larger the car, the wider the gate should be. If the garage or parking lot for a car is inside the site, then the gate should have a margin of 50-100 cm for maneuvers during check-in and parking.
Construction and private plot... If there is a vegetable garden on your site and it is actively used, then the wide gates will be very useful. Large vehicles are used to bring in fertilizers, seedlings or land. The same applies to delivery building materials and technology.
Distance from the gate to the road. When building a gate, you need to take into account the distance to the road - if it is large, then the size of the wings can be unlimited. Otherwise, in the swinging state, the gate can interfere with the passage of vehicles.

If you do not know what size of construction is needed for your site - use standard size(3-4 meters).

Preparation and calculation of material

When calculating the height of the gate, it is worth starting from the value of 120 cm. The size is considered to be the minimum. It can vary depending on the height of the fence and other conditions. In addition to the sashes, the gates need supports. Their height must be at least 1 meter higher than the height of the gate. This difference sinks into the ground for structural stability.

For construction, you will need square bars with a cross section of 4 cm. They will serve as a frame for future gates. For these purposes, you can use metal, but then you need a drill to make holes. The best material oak is considered for gate supports - this is one of the strongest and most moisture-resistant species.

For sheathing the gate frame, a picket fence with a cross section of 3 to 5 cm is used.In addition to wood, for the gate you will need:

latch or lock (for a wicket, if any);
hinges for the lock;
awnings (the number depends on the design);
screws or nails.

It is not necessary to install a lock on the gate - but this will increase the safety of the site. A jigsaw will be needed to cut the material. In addition to him, the following tools will be required to construct the gate:

drill and screwdriver;
plane;
level and tape measure.

Most of the tools can be found in almost everyone's home. The missing elements can be easily rented, this will significantly save on the construction of the gate.

Installation of supports

Before installing the gate supports, the soil must be prepared at the work site. To do this, use a shovel, rake and other garden tools. The soil is dug to a depth of 20 cm, depending on the soil. When installing gate supports, large stones and plant roots must be removed. Then the soil is leveled with a rake. At the places of the supports, landmarks are set - pegs, between which a thread is pulled.

If you install wooden gate supports, they must be impregnated with antiseptic agents before digging in. The part that is immersed in the ground is treated with mastic or resins. This will protect the wood from rotting and moisture.

For supports, holes are dug from 1 meter, the depth is considered the minimum for long-term operation. Sand is poured onto the bottom of the pits, in a layer of 10 cm, then it is spilled with water and rammed. When the water is slightly absorbed, the support pillars are immersed. They must match each other in height up to 5 mm. The marking of the supports is verified with a water level and a stretched thread. The vertical position of the pillars is checked using an improvised plumb line.

When the pillars are inside the pits, crushed stone is poured there, 25 cm thick. A concrete solution is poured over the crushed stone (1 part of cement to 2 parts of sand).

It is inconvenient for one person to install the supports. So that the work does not cause you discomfort - enlist the help of a friend or hire an employee. Even supporting the supports while pouring the cement requires the help of another person.

Important! If you use a very massive gate with metal parts of the structure, it is better to use concrete or brick for the supports. Such pillars will last much longer than wooden ones.

After the mortar has dried, you can proceed with the installation of the sashes. If you are unsure of the strength of concrete, wait a couple more days. Otherwise, the supports will not support the weight of the sash and the concrete will crack.

To give the gates and supports of the fortress, a support beam is attached from above. It serves as a reinforcing rib of the structure and reduces the load from the sashes on the supports.

Gate frame

For creating. the frame must be marked and cut to fit the size of the opening. The resulting bars are laid out on a flat surface in the shape of a rectangle. The evenness of the edges is checked with a level

Note! The gate frame can be made of a metal profile or steel pipe... But this requires a welding machine.

If you do not know what sizes and materials to use for gates and supports - watch a video review of a handmade product:

In the corners of the bars, holes are made with a drill and fastened with pins, nails or self-tapping screws. For additional strength, steel corners and crossbars are placed in the corners and in the center of the frame. At the point of contact, at the corners, the bars are cut at 45 degrees. Beams are placed crosswise at the corners and fastened with self-tapping screws.

Frame finishing

The most creative stage in the creation of a gate is paneling. It can be made solid or lattice - it all depends on your imagination. The most practical is a monolithic mount. But if you want to lighten the structure and save material, you can make small gaps between the picket fence.

Note! If you attach the slats at a distance from each other, use a template. For this, another plank or a small plank is suitable.

The slats are attached to the frame so that they look 15-20 cm beyond the boundaries of the future sashes. When all the elements are attached, you can level all the slats to the same level.

Sash installation

The final stage is the fastening of the sashes to the supports. For this, use ready-made loops. One side is applied to the support post, the other to the sash. The parts are screwed in with self-tapping screws with a screw thread. It is better to mark the place of attachment of the hinges in advance, it should be the same on both doors. To reduce the immersion time of the self-tapping screw, small holes are made with a drill in the fasteners.

Following this detailed instructions you can easily make and attach a swing gate with your own hands. After installation, the finished product can be coated with wood stain, paint or varnish.

Even with today's abundance of a wide variety of building materials, many home craftsmen make wooden gates with their own hands. Their love for wood is understandable. Hardly any modern material surpasses it in beauty and ability to enliven the appearance of any design. Certainly, wooden crafts are not devoid of disadvantages, including:

high fire hazard;
low moisture resistance;
relatively short service life;
low surface strength;
large mass.

In addition, wooden gates require frequent maintenance (eg painting). Nevertheless, there are many tools that relieve wood from most of its shortcomings. These include:

fire retardants;
antiseptic impregnation;
various paints and varnishes.

Do not forget about the right choice timber for building gates. Conifers are most suitable for this purpose, but the best characteristics larch possesses moisture resistance and strength. At the same time, its wood is also the heaviest, therefore, larch structures, gate frames and support pillars must be distinguished by their special strength. Pine is a cheap alternative. It is less durable, but much lighter than dense larch.

Once upon a time, wooden gates were made practically without the use of other materials. Even logs dug into the ground were used as pillars. Only awnings, nails or some decorative elements were forged from iron. And today forged parts are in demand, but it no longer makes sense to install wooden poles. Instead, it is more expedient to put steel or brick. In extreme cases, pipe supports can be masked with wooden linings, but they will only perform a design function.

Wooden gates on a metal frame

Do-it-yourself door frames and gates for gates can be made of wood and metal profiles.

Figure 1. Drawing of a wooden gate.

What the combined design looks like is shown in the diagram (Fig. 1). First, we will make such a structure, such a project is the easiest to implement, especially for a person who knows how to handle a welding machine.

For the construction of the gate, you can use the presented diagram. You may need to make some changes to it regarding the height of the structure and the width of the sashes. It is necessary to start work with measurements and drawing up a drawing not only in order to perform it efficiently, but also to acquire the required amount of consumables:

shaped pipes 80 x 80 mm for pillars;
profile pipes 40 x 40 (40 x 20) mm for sash frames and jibs;
boards 100 x 25 mm for covering the door leaf and wicket;
ball loops with a cross section of at least 25 mm;
self-tapping screws for metal;
locking fittings;
steel plates for end caps for posts;
cement, sand and gravel;
various impregnations for metal and wood processing.

You will also need:

grinder;
welding machine;
jigsaw (hacksaw, circular saw);
drill screwdriver;
square;
level;
plumb line;
roulette;
shovel or drill.

Mark the locations for the supports and dig or drill holes. The diameter of the pits must be at least 20 cm larger than the pipe section. The pillars must be dug into the ground by at least 1/3 of their length. A pillow of sand and gravel is poured into the pits. Its thickness is 10-15 cm. The bedding is rammed and soaked in water. Pillars are installed in the pits, but before digging them in, you should:

plug at the ends (the lower plug should be larger than the pipe cross-section);
clean from rust;
treat with an anti-corrosion compound;
cover the lower third of the post with bituminous mastic.

Supports are installed on a level or plumb line. Reinforcement is laid in the pits and concrete is poured. While it is solidifying, the frames of the gates and wickets are made.

Sash manufacturing and hanging

The ends of the profile pipes are cut at right angles or 45 °. The uprights and horizontal bars are assembled together on a flat surface. A square is used to check how correctly the sashes are assembled (more precisely, the assembly quality is checked with a tape measure, with which the diagonals of the structure are measured). The vertical and horizontal elements of the frame are finally welded. Jibs are cut out and also welded to the frames. The installation of doors and gates is carried out only 2 weeks after the foundation pits are poured under the supports with concrete.

Gate open position limiter: 1 - post, 2 - latch, 3 - leaf frame.

Before hanging the hinges, all frames must be securely fixed between the posts. After that, the places for the installation of canopies are marked. They are then welded to the supports and frames. Locking fittings are mounted on the sashes and wickets. All structures are cleaned of burrs, scale, rust and covered with an anti-corrosion compound, primer and paint.

Now the frame remains to be sheathed with curved boards. You should know that it will not be possible to make a high-quality wooden gate if the wood is not pre-dried in a place inaccessible to direct sunlight place (the drying time of the boards is 1.5-2 weeks). After drying and cutting to size, the lining is sequentially impregnated with an antiseptic and a fire retardant.

Before screwing in the fasteners, holes are made in the boards. After screwing in the screws, they are treated with an antiseptic. The boards do not need to be stacked close to each other. Leave a small gap between them to compensate for expansion. An equal gap between the cladding elements will be obtained if strips of the same thickness are laid between them. After its installation, the wood is covered with paint or varnish.

The shape of the door trim does not have to be rectangular. In addition, the boards can be placed inside a steel frame made of professional pipes or corners. Support pillars can be faced with bricks. In this case, mortgages are welded to them, to which hinges will be attached when installing the gate. Under brick pillars you need to build a foundation, and the cavity inside the masonry is filled with concrete.

Frame made of wood

Build wooden gates with your own hands, in which not only cladding is cut out of wood, but also frame elements, is somewhat more difficult than combined ones. In this work, the main thing is to ensure the maximum accuracy of measuring parts. Deficiencies in their processing are immediately striking, and it is very difficult to eliminate them.

Diagram of the corner connection of the door frame with a hinge: a - gusset frames of wooden gates, b - hinge on reinforced concrete pillars, 1 - reinforced concrete pillar, 2 - sash frame, 3 - barn hinge, 4 - overlay, 5 - lightly, 6 - nails.

It is rather difficult to ensure sufficient rigidity of a structure made of beams and planks. The connection of the crossbars and the racks of the sash must be carried out in a thorn-groove. Spikes are placed on horizontal elements, and grooves on vertical ones. Additionally, the frames are reinforced with jibs and central beams.

For the uprights, lintels and the center bar, you must use a bar with a cross section of at least 50 x 70 mm.
Bars of 50 x 50 mm will be used for jibs.
Planks 100 x 25 mm are used for cladding.

Installation of wooden gates is carried out after:

digging in pillars;
planing wood;
sawing it into blanks;
assembly of frames;
clapboard sheathing;
installation of loops.

After planing and sawing, all workpieces are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. Tongue-groove connections must be secured with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled through the spike-grooves in the sashes, and wooden rods of a larger section are hammered into them. In addition, self-tapping screws are screwed into the pre-drilled holes at the points of adhesion of the frame elements. The diameter of the holes should be slightly smaller than the section of the fastener. Before the final contraction of the elements, the frame is checked for squareness (the check method is described above). If necessary, it is restored by lightly tapping on the end parts of the frame with a mallet.

After assembling the racks and crossbars, the jibs are attached to the frame. They run from the corner pieces of the frame to the center bar. It is better to mark before trimming the jibs by attaching the bars to the assembled frame. The corner pieces of the bars will be cut in the shape of the letter "L", and the ends at the rungs will be at an angle of 45 °. The boards are attached to the doors with self-tapping screws. Loops are screwed to the horizontal bars. Now the gate is hung on the posts.

If you decide that the gate supports should also be wooden, install larch or oak beams. In addition to treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant, part of the pillars immersed in the ground must be coated with melted bitumen.

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