Do-it-yourself floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting. How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with backlighting Plasterboard ceiling lighting device

Various structures are made of drywall, including ceilings. This material gives unlimited possibilities in terms of creating all kinds of surfaces, shapes, niches and false partitions. One of these original designs is a floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting. The first glance at the ceiling surface gives the impression that the ceiling is simply suspended in the air, not attached to the walls. We will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of such structures, their types and the sequence of installation.

Types of soaring ceilings

The soaring plasterboard ceiling with lighting in the photo looks beautiful and original. It seems that the coating is not rigidly fixed, but rather suspended from the floor. In fact, this effect is achieved due to the fact that the drywall sheet is mounted on a hidden frame so that there is a shelf around the perimeter for installing LED lighting.

It is the hidden ceiling lighting and the special design of the tier that create the effect of soaring. The LED strip along the perimeter of the grid casts light onto the upper level, giving the impression that the ceiling is not rigidly fixed.

There are several types of floating ceiling coverings:

The easiest to manufacture single-level soaring ceilings. LED lighting is placed around the perimeter of the room in a niche behind the suspension system.
Two-tier pavements consist of a main pavement plane and a lower tier, which can have any shape. The backlight is installed along the perimeter of the lower level.
Multilevel systems are the most difficult to implement. There may be different variants installation of illumination and main sources of illumination.

Important! The floating effect of the suspended cover cannot be achieved without the use of backlighting.

Varieties of backlights

GKL ceiling lighting can be open and hidden:

in the first case, ordinary built-in lighting devices are used, which are installed in the tiers of the ceiling;
hidden illumination of the plasterboard ceiling is carried out in the shelf of one of the tiers, where the LED strip is placed (the strip itself is not visible, but the light from it freely falls on the upper level of the ceiling thanks to the open shelf).

The following lighting devices are used for the backlight device:

LED Strip Light differs in a variety of colors and ease of installation. There are single-color and multi-color ribbons. The latter require additional installation of an RGB controller and the purchase of a control panel.
Neon tubes are practically not used in residential premises, because they emit a characteristic noise during operation.
Fiber optic filaments are economical and have an impressive service life. With their help, various effects are created on the ceiling, for example, the "starry sky".

Also, according to its functional purpose, the ceiling lighting can be used as a source of the main lighting in the room. This option is more suitable for bedrooms where you do not need to make bright light.

Zone lighting helps to divide the room into separate functional areas. It is usually installed in a lowered tier above the dining or sleeping area, bar counter, working area in the kitchen or divides the living room into two parts.

Decorative lighting creates a certain mood in the room. It should not be very bright, it is designed to highlight certain elements on the ceiling, emphasize the outlines of tiers or create a floating effect.

Advantages and disadvantages of soaring ceilings

A plasterboard suspended ceiling has the following advantages:

When you turn on the backlight, the room appears visually taller and more spacious.
When installing the ceiling, you can embody a variety of design fantasies.
By installing LED lighting, you save on energy costs.
A soaring plasterboard ceiling with backlighting can be done with your own hands. It is important to follow the instructions exactly, to have minimal construction skills.
Such structures and special lighting create an atmosphere of comfort and warmth in the room.
It is convenient to hide irregularities behind false ceilings base surface speaking building construction and engineering communications.
In addition to LED lighting, you can install built-in lamps or use hanging lighting in suspension systems.

The disadvantages of such ceilings include some installation difficulties that beginners may have. In addition, the suspended ceiling steals the height of the room a little, so it is not suitable for low apartments. For self installation LED strip need to have certain knowledge and skills.

Installation sequence

Before the construction of the structure, you need to make a drawing on a scale, on which all the levels, the frame diagram, the installation locations of the lamps and fasteners, as well as the sections and heights of the levels will be drawn.

In principle, the base surface does not need any special preparation, since it will be hidden behind the suspended structure. But if the old ceiling covering is fragile, then it must be removed. Old paint and the wallpaper is cleaned with a spatula, the whitewash is washed off, and the flimsy plaster is knocked down with improvised tools.

After that, all the cracks and cracks in the ceiling are repaired. If this surface is to be used as the upper tier of a two-level coating, then it is putty, polished and primed. After that, the ceiling is ready for painting and installing the frame.

Materials and tools

To make a soaring plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, stock up on the following materials:

ceiling and guide profiles;
ceiling plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm;
self-tapping screws for metal;
dowels and screws;
single-level crab connectors;
construction tape;
putty;
painting net;
dowel-nails;
LED Strip Light;
perforated hangers;
corner fasteners;
primer;
insulating tape;
wires.

You will also need the following tools:

tape measure, pencil;
construction and laser level;
screwdriver and hammer drill;
ladder;
chopping cord;
construction knife;
spatulas;
containers for different mixtures;
scissors for metal;
hammer;
brushes and rollers.

Separately, it is worth considering the issue of choosing a lighting device. For soaring structures made of gypsum board, you can use lamps with incandescent lamps, halogen devices or LED strips. In principle, there are no restrictions on the power of the luminaires. It is important to lay the wiring in insulating ducts.

Room layout

First you need to mark the walls and ceiling of the room. Since the suspended structure will consist of two tiers, you need to determine the height of each of them.

After that, we proceed to the markup:

With help laser level we measure the height of all corners in the room, we find the lowest of them. From this corner downwards we measure the height of each level. We will have two points.
Using the same laser level, we transfer the obtained points to the other corners in the room. Using a chopping line, connect all the points with horizontal lines.
On the base ceiling we draw lines along which we will fix the longitudinal profiles of the frame. We draw them in increments of 40 or 60 cm, which is a multiple of the width of a drywall sheet equal to 120 cm. A reinforced frame with a slat pitch of 40 cm is made for heavy structures with several levels.
Along the lines on the ceiling, we put points in increments of 60 cm. Perforated suspensions will be attached in these places.
On the base surface we draw the outlines of the lower tier. If you need to make a smooth line, then it is more convenient to draw it from several mating circles. We attach their radii to anchor points (corners of the room or its center).

Assembling the frame

To make a plasterboard ceiling with lighting around the perimeter, we begin with the assembly of the frame.

We work in the following order:

According to the markings on the walls of the room, we fix the guide profiles. If the lower tier is located along the walls of the room, then the NP profile for it is also attached to the walls. If it is located in the center of the room, it will be constructed after the installation of the upper level frame. We attach the profiles to dowels and self-tapping screws, which we install in 30 cm increments.
Next, we fix the perforated hangers on the base ceiling. To fix each supporting element, we use a pair of dowel-nails.
Then we cut the ceiling profiles according to the dimensions of the room, insert the ends into the groove of the guide elements on the wall. In the central part of the rail, we fasten it with short self-tapping screws to the perforated hangers. Using the same self-tapping screws, we fasten the longitudinal strips to the NP profiles.

Similarly, we construct the frame of the lower level, but along the line of the tiers difference when assembling the frame, we release longitudinal profiles to form a shelf for hidden lighting. We put on the NP rail on the open end of the PP profiles. If you need to make the curvilinear outlines of the lower level, then we cut the shelves of the NP rail with an equal step and then bend the bar.

Important! We lay the wiring for the LED strip and other lamps at the stage of assembling the supporting frame.

Fastening drywall

First, we sheathe the upper level of the ceiling. We fasten drywall sheets from the corner of the room. Each sheet should be fixed on 3 or 4 longitudinal rails of the frame. The junction of neighboring gypsum boards should fall exactly in the middle of the rail.

Important! Be sure to offset the end joint of the sheets in adjacent rows so that the 4 corners of the slabs do not converge at one point.

We screw the fasteners around the perimeter of the sheet in 15 cm increments, and place them at a distance of no more than 2.5 cm from the edge. The self-tapping screws in the central part of the sheet can be screwed in in 25 cm increments. We recessed the fastener caps into the material body to a depth of 1 mm. Cut the slab if necessary. In the place of the cut, you need to make a chamfer 1/3 of the thickness of the material at 45 degrees. It is needed to facilitate the filling of seams and the laying of the reinforcing tape.

We sew the second level in the same way. But along its perimeter we make an open shelf. We trim the end of the shelf with a strip of gypsum sheet to a height of 3-4 cm.

If the edge of the lower tier is curved, then the GCR strip can be bent in two ways:

make cuts on one side of the material by a third of the thickness with an equal step, then bend the strip;
walk along the back of the gypsum board with a roller with needles, moisten the surface with water, after soaking the strip bends easily.

After sheathing the entire frame, we carefully putty the seams using the serpyanka reinforcing tape. We put it in a layer of putty solution. You also need to putty the grooves from the screws. After the putty has dried, we grind and prime the surface. If the structure will be painted, then we will putty the entire ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard with a finishing mixture. When it dries, we grind it again, soak it twice with a primer.

Lighting installation

Before installation, the LED strip is cut or soldered to obtain the backlight of the desired length. You can cut the tape only using special markings in the form of a dotted line and scissors. Observe the polarity when soldering individual pieces.

After that, the prepared tape is connected by spreading it out on the floor to check its functionality. Then the LED lighting is placed in a shelf on the ceiling. To do this, remove the paper strip from the adhesive coating on the back of the LED strip. The backlight is glued to the warp, laying it on a gypsum board shelf. The tape is connected to the power supply and RGB controller.

Finishing

As finishing soaring ceilings are more often used for painting with interior paints. Also, ceiling structures can be pasted over with wallpaper or self-adhesive film. Please note that light glossy surfaces reflect the light from the backlight better, make the room visually taller and more spacious.

If it is decided to use painting as a finish, then the ceiling in a room with normal humidity can be painted with water-based paint. If such structures are mounted in the kitchen or in a place with fluctuations in humidity, then it is better to choose silicone or acrylic paint.

Handsome, practical and stylish ceiling anyone who is ready to seriously approach the study of the installation scheme can do it with their own hands from drywall with backlighting, following the recommendations of specialists. The installation of the structure will depend on the choice of type of lighting, as well as the number of levels and configuration.

Plasterboard ceiling lighting: varieties

By the type of installation, the backlight can be either open or closed. It is easier to install a multi-level open-type backlit ceiling, therefore, without any experience, it is worth starting with such structures. In this case, the luminaires are fixed in pre-prepared holes, remembering to comply with the requirements for their weight (no more than 10 kg in total).

Hidden lighting implies the installation of additional levels to mask lighting equipment in the interlevel space. The process is more complicated and time-consuming, but the final effect is much more interesting than in the first case with open lamps.

DIY backlit plasterboard ceilings are compatible with the following lighting fixtures:

LEDs;
neons;
fiber optic.

LEDs in terms of electricity consumption are the most economical option... Implemented by affordable price, have the ability to adjust the light intensity, are used in ceilings with perimeter illumination (contour) and for high-grade bright lighting.

Neons are the most durable lighting option, are characterized by a low level of heat transfer, are available in a huge range, but surpass LEDs in price.

Fiber optics are also characterized by a long service life, which opens up new possibilities for implementation. creative ideas within the framework of compliance with safety regulations with minimal energy consumption. Fiber optic backlighting is one of the most expensive options, requiring certain skills and experience to install.

It should be borne in mind that the scheme of a plasterboard ceiling with lighting will also depend on the choice of the latter's functionality. Allocate general lighting based on lamps and wall-mounted lamps, zonal to create accents in certain areas of the room and decorative to implement bold design ideas.

The most popular among those who decided to make a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands with lighting is the open type option with decorative LED lighting. It is easiest to mount such structures while maintaining the desired effect.

Foundation preparation - start of work

Before starting the installation of a backlit plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to work on the preparation of the rough base, to carry out the markings for the installation of the frame. To do this, they are determined with a scheme according to which the work will be carried out. There are two paths you can take.

First, the devices are connected to a network with standard voltage and frequency. The second - a step-down transformer is used, which makes it possible to obtain 12 V. The first option is simpler and more convenient to implement. The disadvantage of choosing in his favor is a huge risk of a short circuit if the insulation layer is damaged.

So, for example, if a short circuit occurs and the wiring with plastic insulation begins to smolder, the risk of death of people, not so much from fire, as from toxins, will increase several times.

A smart backlit ceiling design using a step-down transformer is safer. Its disadvantage lies primarily in the price - such a ceiling will cost more. That is why, in order to save money, experts recommend installing structures with standard illumination connected to the network in ordinary rooms, in rooms with a high level of humidity and a risk of fire - with a transformer.

After determining a suitable lighting scheme, you can proceed to the installation of a structure based on gypsum board. To do this, you will need to prepare the materials and tools necessary for the work. In addition to the fastening elements, you will need:

lighting equipment;
wires with plastic insulation and a cross-section of 0.75 mm sq;
insulating tape;
corrugations and boxes made of plastic;
switches;
terminal blocks and junction boxes;
wire stripping tools;
wire cutters;
screwdrivers;
a probe for determining the phase.

With a ceiling drawing at hand and a list of tools, you can start marking. For this, a measuring thread or a more modern laser level is suitable. The markings are applied at a distance of up to 70 mm from the lowest corner, a line is drawn at the installation site of the proposed lighting cornice.

Frame - the basis of the structure

Exclusively all options for a plasterboard ceiling with lighting imply the installation of a frame. At this stage, it is important to carry out the correct calculations, not forgetting about the need to mask communications and elements of lighting equipment.

A guide profile is mounted along the perimeter of the wall. To obtain a curved box, you will need a special flexible profile, on which cuts are made to further form the frame of the desired shape. In the process, it is better to use a proven tool - a grinder.

Precisely according to the marking, the profile is fixed with screws, dowels of nails with a fastening step from 250 to 300 mm.

At this stage, it is important, using the detector, to determine the zones of passage hidden wiring in order not to damage the wires.

On the ceiling overlap, direct suspension brackets are attached to fix the main profile on them. The next step is to fix the main profiles using a level to control the horizontal position. Next, the elements of the main profile are cut with a grinder, fixing them perpendicular to the already fixed parts with the help of crabs (step 40 cm). The resulting structure is a first level frame, on the basis of which a double ceiling with illumination will be built.

Installation of the second level frame

Each plasterboard ceiling at the base has a frame holding it, but not only. To arrange the selected lighting option, you will need to think over the organization of a niche for the location of devices, for example, a popular LED strip.

As in the case of the installation of the first level frame, the process begins with marking the location of the starting profile with transitions between the tiers. The next step will allow you to determine the areas of the location of the lighting equipment, followed by the installation of wiring.

As soon as everything is ready, proceed to the preparation of the starting profile, which is fixed to the ceiling with screws according to the markings at the locations of the main profiles of the previously set level.

Plasterboard finishing - how to do it right

For finishing the structure of two levels with backlighting, drywall sheets with a thickness of 9.5 to 12.5 mm with parameters 1.2 × 2.5 m are used. The sheets are fastened with metal screws with the usual pitch of 250 mm. To achieve the most even surface of the canvas, the joints are sealed with putty, using a serpyanka or construction bandage.

The decision will fully justify itself - to hem the two-level plasterboard ceiling in two layers. Thus, it will be possible to increase the strength and service life of the structure. The disadvantage of choosing an additional layer is an increase in costs and weight of the structure.

After finishing the finishing with plasterboard sheets, the structure is leveled, glued with a serpyanka and carefully putty. Only after that do they proceed to the installation of holes and baguettes around the perimeter.

What a ceiling looks like with a modern minimalist design

You can assemble a modern plasterboard ceiling with diode lighting with your own hands in several versions. Let's consider a simple and effective scheme. It consists of several stages:

The frame is installed along the perimeter of the wall at a distance of 120 mm from the rough base.
The next level is located behind the first level, at a distance of no more than 50 mm from the overlap.
Arrange the third level - this will be the center of the ceiling, extending from the ceiling by 80 mm.

In this case, the LED strip is located inside a niche arranged in the side of the second level. For a lighting device, the ideal option would be Spotlights located along the perimeter of the first level, which is farthest from the slab.

The subtleties of connecting and setting up the LED strip

A stylish perimeter plasterboard ceiling with LED strip can be not only a decorative element, but also perform the main function - to fully illuminate the room along the contour of the ceiling. You can buy the tape in a set or by picking up individual components, taking into account the selected scheme. There are two options for LED strips:

monochrome;
multicolor.

The first one illuminates the ceiling and the room by means of diodes of the same color, with the possibility of dimming. The second allows you to experiment with different colors diodes. You can simply connect the LED strip using scissors, screwdrivers and a soldering iron.

The connection process begins with the separation of the parts of the tape according to the mark with the pictogram. You cannot connect more than two five-meter tapes - this is the main rule. It is also important to insulate the adhesion area.

Following step by step photo instructions, you can install recessed spotlights with your own hands. To do this, you will need an electric drill with a crown, a well-sharpened assembly knife, and a curly screwdriver.

Luminaires are mounted taking into account the laid wiring and markings. Place the fixtures in the prepared holes.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that a backlit plasterboard ceiling is not so difficult to assemble with your own hands if you act consistently. The main thing is to choose not the most complex structures and easy-to-implement lighting schemes, for example, based on an LED strip.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling combines beauty and functionality, so it is definitely worth spending time studying the technology of its construction. Of course, the process of installing such a ceiling cannot be called simple, but nevertheless, even a beginner can cope with such a task - naturally, if this newbie approaches the process responsibly and starts work by studying the theory.

What do you need to work?

Materials (edit)

A plasterboard suspended ceiling with built-in lamps or LED strip located along the perimeter of the ceiling is a fairly universal solution. On the one hand, with the device of such a structure, we ensure the perfect alignment of the ceiling, regardless of the initial state. ceiling slab or other supporting surface. On the other hand, we get the opportunity to install adjustable lighting over a large area, completely (or almost completely) getting rid of shaded areas.

The obvious advantage of this technology is the rather high speed of the ceiling construction - unlike plastering, we do not have to wait a week or more for the applied solution to dry.

For the installation of a false ceiling, we will need:

Galvanized profile for the frame (starting and ceiling).
Metal suspensions to form the necessary gap between the gypsum board and the load-bearing part of the ceiling.
Drywall (standard for most rooms, moisture resistant for kitchen, bathroom, toilet and balcony).
Fasteners for profiles and drywall (anchors, self-tapping screws for metal and gypsum board).

Plaster for gypsum plasterboard.
Serpyanka ribbon.
Perforated corners for masking corner joints.
Primer.
Finishing materials (interior paint, decorative plaster, wallpaper, etc.).

We purchase separately materials for lighting:

Flush-mounted ceiling luminaires (for incandescent, halogen or LED lamps).
Connecting wire PVA 3 × 0.75 or PVA 3 × 0.5.
Cable channels with clamps for fastening.
LED strip for backlighting.
Transformer and dimmer for LEDs.
Insulating tape.

Instruments

A backlit plasterboard ceiling can be made using less sophisticated tools. And yet, the set of devices, without which work would be practically impossible, turns out to be very extensive.

My minimum includes:

Rotary hammer with drill bits for concrete / brick.
Crown drill for making holes for lamps.
Screwdriver with magnetic bits and drywall attachment.
Shears for metal for cutting a profile.
Saw for cutting gypsum boards.
A sharp knife for working with drywall.
Planer for processing the edges of gypsum plasterboard sheets.
Spatulas for leveling the sheathing.
Grinding floats.
Priming and finishing brushes.
Electrician tools - standard and indicator screwdrivers, pliers, sharp knife, etc.

To the additional devices that greatly facilitate the work, I would include a rack or painting trestles: without them it will be very difficult to sheathe the ceiling.

Installation technology

Main ceiling frame

There are different ways to make backlit plasterboard ceilings, so here I will describe the two most common modifications. The easiest way is to install a conventional suspended ceiling, behind which wires and built-in lamps are hidden.

Such a ceiling is assembled on a horizontal frame:

First, we need to mark the room. To do this, we check the height of the walls in each corner and find the lowest corner. From this point, we set aside a distance equal to the gap of our future ceiling - from 50 to 100 mm or more. Most often, the size of the gap is determined by the size of the recessed luminaires.

Then we prepare the floor itself. Since plasterboard sheathing perfectly hides all defects from prying eyes, I usually limit myself to dismantling large fragments of the old finish and all the parts installed on the ceiling (cornices, bracket, etc.). After that, it is advisable to treat the ceiling and the upper part of the walls with an antiseptic primer - this way we will protect ourselves from fungi that may appear behind the cladding.
The next stage is the installation of the UD starter profile. We cut the U-shaped parts to the size of the room and apply them to the walls, after which we drill holes for fasteners with a puncher. We fix the profile strictly according to the level, using plastic dowels and metal locking screws with a tapered point (the so-called "express mounting dowels").

Then we apply markings directly to the ceiling with a step of 400 mm. According to the marking with the same indentation, we fix the ceiling hangers, fixing them with anchors. Bend the sides of the suspensions vertically down.
Now we mount the C-profile (CD), which will serve as the basis for our ceiling. We cut the profile panels to size, after which we bring the edges into the starting profile and fix them with self-tapping screws. We fix the spans on hangers, carefully leveling them to a level or a stretched cord. After fixing, bend the free edges of the suspensions up.

For greater rigidity, we lay transverse profiles: we place them perpendicular to the already installed ones, also fixing them on the suspensions and in the starting profile on the walls. At the intersections of the profiles, we install special connectors - crabs.

If it is planned to form a box around the perimeter of the room, then for greater rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to install an additional support profile where the border of this box will pass. In principle, you can do without this trick, but it will be much more reliable.

Perimeter box

Sometimes the lighting is mounted not behind the main skin, but in a box around the perimeter of the ceiling or on a special side shelf (in the case of an LED strip).

Such a box is also quite simple to construct, but nevertheless there are tricks here:

In the first step, we need to determine the height of the box. As in the case of the base ceiling, we set aside the required distance from the upper edge of the room (whether it be a ceiling or sheathing made of gypsum plasterboard) and draw the main line on the wall strictly according to the level.

If the box is mounted without the preliminary formation of the first level of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling, then the floor itself should be perfectly flat. This can be achieved with plaster followed by putty.

Then we mark the width of the future box on the ceiling and also draw a line.

We install the starting profiles UD according to the marks: we fasten them to the wall or the main ceiling with anchors, to the plasterboard sheathing - with self-tapping screws. Here, a pre-made mortgage from the main ceiling profile will come in handy: it will ensure the reliability of fixation.
Then we make several tens of segments from the CD profile, the length of which should be equal to the height of the box - they will perform the function.

We attach the segments to the upper starting guide in increments of about 30 - 40 cm. They should be located strictly vertically.
Now we make the same number of segments, but their length should be equal to the width of the box.
If a ledge shelf is made for an LED strip, then we make a margin in length equal to the width of this shelf.

We put one edge of each segment into the starting profile on the wall, the second we connect with a vertical impromptu suspension. Carefully align the bottom edge of the resulting structure and connect all the parts with self-tapping screws.

Sometimes, to ensure greater rigidity or to form the plane necessary for fixing the shelf, another UD profile is attached to the improvised suspensions, but in some cases it is possible to do without it.

We repeat these operations for all suspensions - this is how we get a frame, inside which a perimeter backlight or LED strip can be placed. After installing the frame, wiring is carried out, but we will talk about this stage of work in the corresponding section.

Plasterboard cladding and finishing

Now we need to figure out how drywall is attached to the profile.

There are no particular difficulties here, but again - it's all about the nuances:

We cut the sheets of plasterboard into fragments of the size we need. When trimming, the edge of the sheet intended for joining must be processed with a plane to obtain an even edge. It is also advisable to chamfer at an angle of 450 - this will make it easier for us to seal the seam.

We apply each sheet to the ceiling and align so that its edge falls in the middle of the ceiling profile. We fix the sheet to the guides using self-tapping screws, twisting them in a checkerboard pattern.
To fix the gypsum board to the ceiling frame, it is convenient to use a special attachment for the screwdriver: it ensures strict adherence to the sufficient screwing depth of the self-tapping screw, so that we will be practically insured against passing the cardboard layer.
When lining the ceiling of a large area, we place the gypsum board sheets in such a way that the seams between them do not coincide. The optimal gap between the sheets is up to 4-5 mm - it compensates for the deformations of the gypsum board, so that the ceiling will not swell with changes in temperature and humidity.

The frame of the box is sheathed with plasterboard strips, cut to size: first we fix the lower plane, and then the side sheathing.
When forming a shelf for an LED strip side edge formed from a thin strip of drywall, which is attached to the UD profile, fixed at the ends of the guides. In this case, we leave a gap between the upper edge of the side edge and the ceiling, sufficient for the passage of light.

We glue all the joints between the sheets with a serpentine and fill it with putty (the chamfer is exactly what ensures good adhesion of the gypsum board and the putty mixture).
On the corners of the box and on the joint of the box with the ceiling, we glue a special perforated corner... We close up the corner with putty, carefully all the planes.

We also level out all defects and damage to the drywall itself with a putty.
At the last stage, we cover up the caps of the screws.

After polymerization of the putty, we rub the surface with a fine abrasive, and then perform decorative trim- painting, wallpapering, drawing textured plaster etc.

When we make illuminated ceilings, we need to form holes for built-in lamps. Each master decides for himself when to do it best.

I prefer to drill drywall after sanding, but before finishing. This way, I am guaranteed not to ruin the painted or wallpaper-pasted ceiling - and the lamps themselves can be installed after decorating.

A few words about arcs from a profile and gypsum board

Sometimes, when installing a backlit ceiling, it becomes necessary to form a curved surface. Therefore, we need to first bend the profile, then fix it on the base, and then fix the curved gypsum board to the frame.

This is done - if you know how - quite simply:

We cut the profile part intended for bending to size, and turn it over so that the flat base is at the bottom and the vertical sidewalls look up.
Then we take scissors for metal and cut the sidewalls to the base in increments of 50 to 80 mm (the smaller the radius, the smaller the step).
We carefully bend the profile according to the configuration we need. We carry out the final bending already during installation, adjusting the position of the profile relative to the markings and fasteners applied to the ceiling.

You need to work, of course, with gloves!

With drywall, the situation is somewhat more complicated: this material is quite fragile, and therefore, if you try to bend it without preliminary preparation, it is almost guaranteed to crack. However, there is a way out:

Along the cuts, the strip can be bent without the risk of cracking.

Well, with less risk!

To form curved surfaces, we acquire a special arched gypsum board with a reduced thickness, which bends much easier.
Then, on the seamy side of the cut plasterboard strip, every 30 -50 mm, we make cuts almost the entire thickness of the gypsum layer. Now, when bending, the wrong side of the material simply diverges, and the front part forms the arc we need.

The second method of bending the gypsum board to form beautiful ceiling contours is to moisten the material. Turn the workpiece over with the wrong side up and use a roller to gently moisten the sheet. After about an hour (the water is just absorbed), we begin to bend the strip right at the attachment point, immediately fixing each self-tapping screw to the frame.
Some experts also recommend rolling the back of the drywall with a needle roller. In theory, this should work, but I myself have not used this method, so I will not dare to recommend it with 100% certainty.

In any case, when bending the gypsum board, you need to act very carefully: even the precautions described above do not guarantee that the material will not crack with any awkward movement.

Electrical part

Wiring

Naturally, when designing a backlit plasterboard ceiling, you need to pay attention to the electrical part of the system.

Since the wiring in this case will be hidden behind the cladding, we do not have to grind the ceiling - so the laboriousness of laying the network will turn out to be quite acceptable:

To begin with, we decide where we will have the lamps. When using standard built-in lamps, it is advisable to place them no further than 0.7 m from the wall and 1.2 - 1.5 m from each other: this way there will be no shaded areas in the room.
We mark the locations of the lamps on the base (the first level of the false ceiling or ceiling), after which we mark the routes along which the wires will pass.

We remove the wires from the junction box in the room (as I noted above, PVA 3 × 0.75 or PVA 3x0.5 will be enough) in non-combustible cable ducts. I usually use a corrugated casing, but you can also use a square box - its price is slightly higher, but you can leave it in open areas, as it looks neat.

When designing lighting hidden in a false ceiling, I usually lay two branches powered by separate switch keys. The bulbs should be connected to these branches one by one - then we will be able to regulate the light intensity as efficiently as possible.
I pull the cable channels with wires through the ceiling frame (or through the frame for the box around the perimeter) and fix it either to the frame elements or directly to the ceiling. For fixing I use clamps, trying not to damage the corrugation when tightening them.

Opposite the installation site of each lamp, I leave a free loop of a wire about 40 cm long. To save time, when connecting the lamps, you can immediately cut the wire, strip the ends and connect the terminal block.

If the design of the lamps used provides for this, then I fix the bases of the lamps on the ceiling and immediately connect the wires to the terminals.

The supply cable is led to the switchboard. It should be connected only after the installation of the luminaires has been completed - solely for safety reasons.

Installation of lamps

Instructions for installing recessed light lamps into a suspended structure made of gypsum board (whether it be a ceiling or a separate box) is very simple:

Using a drill-crown, you make holes in the selected places under the base of the hidden lamp. Instead of a crown, you can use a "ballerina" or even cut out the nest with a knife. In the latter case, it does not work out so neatly, so this method is only suitable for lamps with a wide decorative base that can overlap the edges of the hole.

Then we carefully remove from the space behind the casing a loop of wires or a wire with an installed terminal block. You can get it with a wire hook.
We connect the wires to the contacts of the lamp. As you can imagine, I prefer to attach all devices to terminal blocks, but in principle, you can simply twist the conductors, carefully insulating the contact points.

We bring together the spacer mounts of the lamp, insert the body into the hole and release the spacer. The spring opens and presses against the drywall from the wrong side.

Everything! Now we just have to install a protective cap or decorative strip masking the attachment point.

LED strip option

Material selection

An open plasterboard box with lighting on the ceiling is usually equipped not with individual lamps, but with an LED strip. This tape is a strip with fixed LEDs that must be connected to a power source through a special power supply.

Choose a tape according to the following parameters:

Parameter	Features of choice
Colour	There are three options here: whites are the simplest, cheapest, and therefore the most common. They are used for general illumination, they have a relatively low decorative potential; monochrome - green, blue, pink, etc. They are almost never used as the main source of lighting, therefore they should only be used for decorating a room; multicolor (RGB) - include diodes of several colors, so we get the ability to change the color of the glow. A special controller is used to control the tape.
Density of LEDs	This parameter determines how many luminous points will be on one meter of tape. The most common products are those with 30, 60 or 120 diodes. Naturally, the more LEDs on one meter, the brighter the tape.
Power	Determined by the size of the diodes used. As a rule, the power is indicated both on the packaging and on the tape itself: SMD3528 - uses diodes 3.5x2.8 mm, used mainly for contour decorative lighting; SMD5050 - works on 5x5 mm LEDs, can be used as a source of background lighting.
Security	LED strips are often produced with moisture protection. For ceiling lighting, this parameter is not so important, but it is still necessary to have an idea of it. The degree of moisture resistance is indicated by marking: IP20-33 - no moisture protection, basic dust protection. Suitable for lighting in residential areas; IP44-65 - LEDs are protected by a silicone coating that prevents dust and moisture from entering the contacts. Can be used in kitchens, bathrooms, etc .; IP66-68 - sealed tape in a silicone or PVC jacket. They can be used both outdoors and even under water at shallow depths.

In addition to the tape itself, for mounting the contour lighting you will need:

Power Supply.
Tricolor controller.
A dimmer is a device that allows you to adjust the brightness of LEDs.

Installation technology

Backlight based on LED strip can be mounted different ways, but I prefer an algorithm like this:

I cut the tape into lengths up to 5 m.
You only need to cut along the lines marked on the tape itself, otherwise we will damage the electrical circuit.
I carefully clean the contacts at the end of each line.

Observing the polarity, I connect the wires from the power supply to the tape contacts. For this I use either special connectors, or - in the old fashioned way - a soldering iron.
I close the place of soldering with a heat-shrinkable insulating tube.
If necessary, I connect a dimmer and a controller for color illumination to the network.

I put the tape on a gypsum board shelf, fixed along the perimeter of the ceiling. I fix the product with a self-adhesive layer on the seamy side, positioning it so that the light hits the ceiling and is reflected into the room.

I install the controller, dimmer and power supplies in a separate place, providing more or less free access to these devices.

After completing the work, I test the system. If everything is on and switches as it should - congratulations, the backlight is ready!

Conclusion

The illuminated plasterboard ceiling is both beautiful and practical at the same time. That is why I like such structures so much: yes, in order to erect such an overlap, you will have to work hard and think over everything thoroughly. But the result is clearly worth the effort.

If my story and the examples attached to the images inspired you, study the video in this article, think over the design of the ceiling, and, if necessary, ask questions in the comments.

Creation of the beautiful, cozy interior- this is probably the desire of every person who is concerned about the renovation of his house or apartment. Among the important stages of improving the premises, of course, it is necessary to highlight the creation of the ceiling.

Today there are different options ceilings: from stretch to multi-level. Of course, each of them has its own advantages, but backlit plasterboard ceilings can become a real decoration of the interior. What is their advantage.

Benefits of illuminated ceilings

Backlit drywall has one undoubted advantage - this combination allows, with a moderate combination of beauty and functionality, to stylishly and tastefully equip your own home.
Drywall is a fairly simple material to install and use. If you have some skills in electricity, then there will be no problems with creating ceilings with any kind of lighting.

The ceiling will be flat, since the sheet has a smooth and even surface.
Drywall is an environmentally friendly product - it does not emit toxins.
Drywall is fireproof.

Design features

Despite the external showiness and complexity, it will not be difficult to create such ceilings. Even in the absence of the necessary skills in working with electrical appliances, you can use simple recommendations that will allow you to quite successfully mount the backlight into your plasterboard ceiling.

According to the design and location of the luminaires, such ceilings can be divided into main groups:

with open backlight;
with hidden backlight.

Open backlit ceilings

The first group of ceilings assumes that the luminaires must be built into the ceiling using specially created holes in the plasterboard ceiling, or a simple suspension to it is carried out.

Keep in mind! For plasterboard ceilings, the weight of the pendant lights should not exceed 10 kg. This recommendation is caused by the low bearing capacity of the sheathing and the frame of this ceiling.

Ceilings with hidden lighting

In the second case, the luminaires must be placed in specially equipped niches, which are located between two levels of the ceiling. As a result, the light from the lamps does not spread directly into the room, but goes to the ceiling and is reflected from it, creating a unique atmosphere in the room.

Thanks to such lighting in the room, coziness is formed, emphasized, and your home takes on a sophisticated look.

When creating a backlit plasterboard ceiling, first of all, you should decide on the backlight option and the shape of the ceiling. For small rooms, it is advisable to use a single-level design, since the multi-level option will significantly reduce the height of the room, which will lose 8-15 cm. If the room is large, then you can build where your design ideas will be involved.

Types of backlighting that can be implemented

When creating a backlit plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to optimally select the lamps for the backlight. In most cases, to create lighting false ceilings fluorescent or LED lamps are used, however, other options can be used.

Before starting work, you should evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of various backlights and choose the one that suits you best.

Backlight types:

lamps;
LED lights;
chandelier;
duralight;
neon lights.

LED lights

For lighting, LED lamps or LED strip can be used. In the case of plasterboard ceilings with side niches in several levels, the illumination in the form of a tape will look quite interesting, it will be very practical and functional.

The backlight can be done in different color schemes, you can use RGB controller or dimmer to control the modes.

Advantages of LED backlighting:

lack of heating of structural elements;
low power consumption;
ease of placement of the backlight.

Disadvantages:

low level of room illumination;
redoing of the wiring is required;
a step-down transformer must be installed.

Light fixtures

This option is one of the most common. In this, the installation of the luminaires occurs pointwise. To place them, markings are made and holes of the required diameter are cut out for the lamps. Their number, as well as their location, is selected based on the purpose of the room, ceiling design, natural lighting.

Luminaire advantages:

modern design;
easy to install on your own.

Disadvantages:

low light level;
lamps that use incandescent lamps consume a significant amount of energy and also get very hot;
rewiring required.

Classic chandelier

This option is the simplest, because you only need to choose the color, shape, number of lamps, and then use the old wiring to connect the chandelier. It is recommended to use energy saving lamps. For combination, you can use warm or cold lights.

Chandelier advantages:

the simplest and fastest installation;
high level of illumination.

Disadvantages:

visual reduction in ceiling height;
a significant contrast to the modern interior.

Neon lights

Thanks to the neon lights, you can create pretty smooth outlines. At the same time, unique designs can be created using various color solutions, of which there are plenty.

Neon lighting can be placed in the niches of the walls, along the ceiling of the room. The installation technology in this case is akin to the installation of LED strips, but in this case, professional skill in performing these works may be required.

Advantages:

a large selection of colors;
modern design.

Disadvantages:

complexity;
the need for professional skills.

Duralight

A feature of this type of lighting is that tubes with incandescent lamps (duralight) are arranged in series and the failure of one light bulb will require replacing the adjacent segment. It is desirable to use modern duralight, where LEDs are used instead of incandescent bulbs. This will also reduce power consumption, increase the resource and brightness of lighting.

Duralight is often used as additional lighting.

Advantages:

one of the cheapest options.

Disadvantages:

low durability and reliability of duralight when using incandescent lamps.

Frame installation instructions

First of all, to create a drywall niche for hidden lighting, you need to use a metal profile.

Installation of the first level frame is carried out as follows:

It is necessary to retreat from the ceiling about 100 mm and draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room. In order for the line to be even and correct, you need to use a hydro level or a laser level.
The starting profile should be fixed to the wall along the line.
Then you need to insert the main one into the starting profile and fix it to the ceiling additionally using suspensions (distancers). The profile is fixed at intervals of about 40 cm.
To give the structure rigidity with the help of crab connectors, jumpers made from the same profile are installed between the main profiles.
With the help of crabs and hangers, profiles and lintels are connected.

At the end, the frame is sheathed with plasterboard sheets using self-tapping screws. As a result, the first basic level of the ceiling structure will be ready.

The next step will be the installation of a niche for lighting. To create a niche for hidden lighting, it is necessary to build a second level.

Second level frame

At the first level of the ceiling, draw the border of the second.
It is necessary to retreat 4-6 cm (under the width of the cornice), after which the starting profile should be fixed to the ceiling.
With scissors for metal, it is necessary to cut the segments of the main profile, which will be sized. They should be fixed with self-tapping screws in the starting guide, as a result they will be assigned the role of suspensions.
You should also fix the starting profile from the bottom side to the hangers.
In the formed frame, you need to insert the main ceiling profiles, connecting them into a common structure.
The necessary wires must be brought out and sheathed the frame in the same way as was done with the first.
At the end, protruding screw caps are performed, as well as over the rest of the area. To protect the seams from cracks, you can use a fiberglass "cobweb".

One of the most effective design tricks is the use of lighting effects. Often it is the light that gives the interior a zest. A backlit plasterboard ceiling is one of the most common options. It is good because, if you wish, you can do it yourself, with your own hands.

Main design differences

The backlighting of the plasterboard ceiling is hidden and open. Open - spotlights that are fully or partially visible. The hidden one is called so because only its radiation is visible. Therefore, when installing a plasterboard ceiling with hidden illumination, the lower level boxes are made with a shelf on which the lighting fixtures are placed.

This shelf can be open or closed and, depending on this, and the position of the light sources changes the width and brightness of the strip of light on the ceiling.

How the light flux changes depending on the shape of the shelf and the location of the light source

Backlight box design

To make such a box for lighting the ceiling, you need two types of profiles:

In the version shown in the photo above, the shelf does not rest on anything. The rigidity of the gypsum board itself is enough to keep the light backlight. In this case, the weight of the lighting elements must be taken into account. The heaviest are fluorescent lamps, but they have practically not been used recently, since there are other options that are more economical in energy consumption and easier to install (LED strips, duralight).

There is a second construction. Here the extension of the shelf rests on the elongated cross members. If the previous construction seems unreliable to you, you can do this. Only in this case, a little more bearing profile will be required. The photo shows an example of organizing a two-level flow from drywall with backlight.

The exact same scheme can be implemented in a single-level version. If your main ceiling is in good condition, you can only make a perimeter box. An example of an assembled framework for lighting is below. It remains to make the inner side, and hem the frame from below.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling does not always have straight lines. They are simply the easiest to implement. But the same patterns are done with curved lines. The result is very beautiful false ceilings.

Only at large distances from load-bearing walls it is necessary to additionally fix the bearing profile either to the ceiling or to the profiles of the previous level. It is more convenient to do this with suspensions.

Sources of light

When planning to make the illumination of plasterboard ceilings, one must remember that this is not lighting at all, but only a way to decorate the room. The stream of light is diffused. Initially, it is fused onto the ceiling, and then into the room. And it adds almost nothing to the overall illumination of the room. With its help, you can visually "raise" the ceiling, make it one of the components of the interior, but this element cannot be considered lighting. Lighting will have to be taken care of separately: to install built-in lamps, wall or traditional - chandeliers.

Backlighting can be done using different light sources, but recently three types have been used:

LED
- tapes;
- duralight.
Neon tubes.

LED strips and duralight

This is a series of LEDs in series. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they are powered from 12 V or 24 V. This power can be provided using an adapter that converts the voltage of a 220 V household network into a lower one. There are monochrome ribbons (white, red, blue, green) that are designated SMD or universal RGB when marking.

Monochrome always emit one color, the color of universal ones can vary. RGB tapes work only with a controller and a remote control. On command from the control panel, they change the shade (the number of colors can be different - from tens to hundreds), in some models the intensity of the glow can also change.

By the type of execution, LED strips are:

Regular. They do not have a protective coating and can only be used in dry rooms.
Waterproof. Their surface is covered with varnish. Can be used for lighting wet rooms - kitchens, bathrooms.
Moisture resistant. Sealed in a polymer tube (called duralight) or housing. They are rarely used for room lighting, more often in aquariums, swimming pools, etc.

The choice is clear. Select the type of tape depending on the conditions of the room. , and we will talk about the good or bad LEDs in the backlight.

First, about the merits:

Low power consumption. They are very economical. Considering that this is only decoration, I don't want to spend large sums on its content.
Do not get warm. Only the power supply can get warm, the LEDs themselves do not heat up. This is important if the ceiling is wooden.
Long service life. Counts in thousands of hours. Under normal power supply, they burn out very rarely (do not exceed the current for which they are intended).
Low price. SMD 35 * 28 tape 5 meters long and 120 pcs / m density costs about $ 2-3. Approximately the same should be paid for the adapter. True, these are the prices of Aliexpress. In stores, everything is much more expensive (2-3 times), although you will not go broke either.
Simple installation. An adhesive composition is applied to the back surface of the tape. Remove the protective layer and stick in the right place. If the surface is rough, you can "shoot" with staples from a construction stapler, but it is better not to punch the tape itself.

Now about the disadvantages. First and foremost: LEDs firmly illuminate all surface flaws. Therefore, the requirements for the quality of the ceiling finish are very high. Second disadvantage: the presence of adapters. They need to be attached somewhere. This is probably all.

Neon tubes

These are glass tubes filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. The brightness of the glow changes when the current strength changes, which is regulated by the convector. These devices are installed every 5 meters, their power consumption is about 100 W, they do not make noise during operation.

Also, a step-up transformer is required for operation: normal voltage is not enough for neon to work. Transformers are installed every 6 meters. But they can hum during operation, and also - warm up and electricity, of course, "pulls" pretty well. The whole system as a whole consumes enough a large number of electricity, which, together with the fragility of the tubes and the rather high complexity of installation, makes it not very attractive in comparison with LEDs.

But recently neon cords have appeared. They come right away with a controller and all you need to do is press a button. They are powered by AA batteries. But the power of such illumination for the ceiling is definitely not enough. They can be used in conjunction with LEDs to illuminate interior details.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step photos

The main ceiling in this version was putty, therefore the first tier was not done. Only the box was attached around the perimeter: the height is already small and 7-8 cm required for organizing the suspended one are critical.

There is a place for the cornice near the window, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, the corners are rounded.

The first method was chosen - a step under illumination without support. Since the backlighting is planned from a conventional LED strip, its carrying capacity is more than enough.

First, markings are made on the ceiling. All the specified dimensions are set aside, lines are drawn with the help of a paint cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is pushed forward by 6 cm.

When drawing rounds, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.

Profile guides are attached along the marked lines (CD or PNP in the marking). Fastened to dowels with a pitch of 50 cm. Drilled immediately through the metal. Having installed the plug, the dowel-nail was twisted.

Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are notched, the back remains intact. After that, the profile can be laid out in a circle.

From the front side to the guide profile on the ceiling, we attach a strip of drywall 12 cm wide.This will be the back side of our box. We fix it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws with a screw at a distance of about 10 cm.

On the back side of the installed side, we attach vertical posts from the CD profile (ceiling). Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm box height, minus 1 cm for the installation of profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm for the thickness of the gypsum board screwed from below).

In each section, the lower part is trimmed. The side walls are removed so that another guide profile can be screwed on. As a result, its bottom shelf should be flush with the profile bolted to the wall. The installation step of the vertical racks is about 40-50 cm.

We fasten short vertical pieces around the perimeter

The next step: we fasten the PNP profile, which goes along the bottom of the boat. It is also installed on self-tapping screws with a pitch of 10-12 cm.

They connect two guide profiles: the one that is screwed on the wall and the one that is attached to the main side. They are made from a supporting profile with a step of 40-50 cm.

We proceed to the design of the roundings. To make the strip bent along the required trajectory, we take a strip of drywall about 15 cm wide.Cut it in 5 cm increments and break the gypsum. The result is pieces of plaster that stick to the cardboard.

Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so as not to burst.

Using the laser level, transfer the height markings to inner side... If there is no laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.

Then we take a piece of the bearing profile 9.8 cm long, only we cut it off from above and below. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we wind one edge behind the profile, fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a piece of the profile cut into fragments (as they did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.

Finished rounding "from the inside"

Now the extra pieces of plasterboard can be removed. They are cut to the level with the lower edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.

The next step in making a backlit plasterboard ceiling is putty. The ceiling and the main side are putty. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the hemming from the bottom and the protruding cornice will interfere.

The most convenient way is to cut a square, then cut it off on one side. First, we screw it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the required shape of the edge.

First you can draw, then bite off in small pieces along this line. Smooth out irregularities with a wallpaper knife.

No news: for the roundings we cut the sidewalls, bend them with the required diameter and set them in place, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

If you are planning to make LED lighting for your plasterboard ceiling, it's time to fix the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, setting some kind of inclined plane.

Further, a strip of drywall 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. Of the features - fastening in the middle, and not above and below: the height is too small. The bends are also familiar. We cut a strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster of Paris and fix it.

In this version, in order to facilitate the work and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets are glued to the side ( ceiling plinth). Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.

Now it remains to putty everything and achieve a flat surface. Almost everything. The backlit plasterboard ceiling is ready, it remains to install the backlight itself. And it can be different.

Another option can be seen in video format, but with a working backlight.

The installation of a bi-level stream is demonstrated in the following video. The steps are shown schematically, but the assembly of the first level is clear. So that might be helpful.