Well design in the country: six unusual design ideas. A well in the country with your own hands: a guide to arranging a typical well from rings How you can decorate a well with your own hands

A country well is the main or alternative source of water supply. The water from the well is used for drinking, cooking, watering the vegetable garden and garden. In all these cases, the site becomes independent of central systems water supply.

You can dig a well in the country yourself: you do not need to involve excavators and other special equipment for this. But first, let's talk about the types of wells.

Diy well in the country: types of wells

All wells are conventionally divided into two groups:

utilitarian
decorative.

Utility wells

Utilitarian wells are those that have water, their purpose is purely practical. The most popular type of this group was and remains the classic well made of concrete rings. The water from it is fresh, clean, cool, of high quality.

Advantages of a well made of concrete rings:

long service life
ease of cleaning and other maintenance
the ability to eliminate chips and other damage
the ability to refine the well from the outside.

The Abyssinian well (needle well) is another type of utilitarian group. It looks like an inch pipe buried 15-20 meters into the ground. At the end of the pipe, there is a perforated tip, shaped like a needle. The purpose of the tip is to take ground water.

What an Abyssinian well looks like can be seen in the photo below. Its fundamental difference is that water is pumped forcibly. Without a pump, such a well is incompetent. Shaft concrete structures are filled by the natural influx of groundwater.

Decorative wells

Decorative wells are built as a decoration for a summer cottage. They are part of landscape design, therefore, the aesthetic component of the object comes to the fore.

It does not have to be a deep well of water. To create an atmosphere, it is enough to realistically reproduce the superstructure, decorate it with a bucket, jug, flowers or other decor.

Do-it-yourself utility well in the country: photos, videos, drawings

It is more difficult to make a classic well in a country house than an Abyssinian one, but it will also last 3 times longer.

Construction begins with the choice of materials. Traditionally, mine wells are equipped with reinforced concrete rings from the inside: they are strong, but heavy. You will not be able to install them on your own.

The second option is prefabricated plastic rings, which weigh much lighter, are cheaper, and are not subject to corrosion.

Stages of arranging a well

In a similar way, the third, fourth ring is installed - until water appears at the bottom.

The final stage is cleaning the bottom of the well, after which it must be left to fill with water for 12 hours. After 12 hours, the accumulated water will have to be pumped out and equipped with a filter at the bottom to protect the water from impurities.

The bottom filter consists of three layers:

bottom layer - river pebbles, height 15 cm
middle layer - gravel or fine crushed stone, height 10 cm
the top layer is quartz sand, height 10 cm.

The filter is ready, the well is filling - you can proceed to the superstructure. It can be done in different ways. The photos below show examples of successful add-ons.

Do-it-yourself decorative well in the country: photo, video, drawings

A decorative well decorates the site, is used as a flower garden, masks storm sewers, irrigation barrels, pumps and other equipment on the site.

Well design can be budget-friendly and luxurious. It is important that he conceptually and stylistically fit into the design of the suburban area. Let's consider the simplest decorative well today as an example.

To make it you will need:

block house 1.5 m long
wagon board
wooden blocks 40x40 mm
edged board
moisture resistant plywood
fasteners.

The basis of the decorative well is a cube sheathed with a block house.

Racks are attached to the base, on which the roof will be held. The rafter frame is made of thin beams, and the slopes are reinforced with corners cut from moisture-resistant plywood.

The roof is covered with clapboard, and a cylinder for a bucket and a bucket of flowers itself are used as decoration.

Making a well in the country with your own hands: photo

To design a well, you can use the most unexpected materials and ideas and get a nice result. Take a look at the pictures unusual wells and see for yourself.

How to clean a well in the country with your own hands

To keep the water in the well always fresh and clean, it must be periodically cleaned. It is advisable to sanitize the well after spring floods.

The easiest way to do this is to dissolve a teaspoon of potassium permanganate in a bucket of water, and then pour the liquid into the well. After 2 hours, pump out the water from the well and let it refill.

Automated cleaning can be done differently. It will need deep and drainage pumps, water tanks. With the help of a deep pump, water will be pumped out of the well into the tank, and with the help of a drainage pump, it will be fed back.

The pumps should be located at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom, and the deep pump hose should be as close to the bottom as possible in order to lift up sludge and dirt with pressure and pass them along with water through the filters. The cleaning process continues until clean water flows from the pump.

The well can rightfully be called a symbol of civilization. Since the appearance of hydraulic structures, people have abandoned the nomadic way of life, moved to a sedentary one. There was a source of water at each local area. But if earlier it was used directly for household needs, now it is also used for decorative purposes, decorating the general design of a manor, a private house.

Design features

The finishing of the structure is chosen depending on the style of the entire site, it must be combined with the exterior of the main building. It can be made of the following materials: stone savage, wood, concrete, plastic, brick, plaster, using other raw materials. The main thing is that the building material is durable, does not deteriorate from temperature changes.

When considering the design of the structure, attention should be paid to the need for periodic maintenance of the crinkle, namely, cleaning and disinfection. Accordingly, access to the head should be made free, and the decorative elements should not interfere with the implementation of auxiliary work.

Ordinary cladding materials can look quite dull, so often the wells are painted with multi-colored paints, they make decorative painting, which you can freely do on your own, even in the absence of pictorial talents, it is enough to use stencils. In addition to painting, you can use floristry, create a flower arrangement around.

The structure can be used for water extraction or for decorative purposes.

If considered practical use, then it is necessary to protect it from the ingress of sewage, for this the head is made higher, a blind area is poured around, it is covered or a roof is installed.

Structures can be used both for receiving water and for removing it, they are called infiltration and absorbing, respectively. These are depressions in the ground that reach the aquifer. They can go several hundred meters deep (artesian wells). Depending on the type of soil, the required volume of produced water, the depth of its occurrence, landscape, as well as technical capabilities, it is possible to equip key, log and bore wells. There are also decorative models that are mainly used for aesthetic enjoyment. Let's consider in detail the existing types:

Key. Construction works do not take much time, material costs are minimal. The main condition is the presence of a source on the surface. For ascending springs that come to the surface due to a violation of the integrity of watertight rocks, a concreted round or square platform is made, deepened by 20 cm. If the key is descending, then a filter is additionally installed.
Mine. It is being built on condition that the waters are at a depth of up to 25 meters. It consists of a head, a shaft, a water intake level. Depending on the type of the last of the listed parts, all designs are divided into incomplete, complete, perfect with a sump.
Tubular. Both minor and deep wells are drilled. Represents interconnected metal pipes... A filter is installed below, a hand pump is installed on top. For shallow wells, pipes of the same diameter are used. Shallow wells are also called Abyssinian, Nortonian, deep-water - artesian.
Decorative. Used to decorate the site, as well as disguise engineering communications, in isolated cases - like a well with drinking water. They can be additionally decorated with a roof on which ampelous plants are planted.

Well design and functions

Before starting the construction of a structure, it is necessary to draw up a project. You can do it yourself, download it from the Internet. It consists of several stages: General provisions. Includes engineering and geological data, technical indicators, goals pursued. At this stage, it is decided what function the structure will perform:

If it acts only as a decor, then it remains to choose a suitable place for installation, to decide on the materials for construction, cladding.
For the creep, which will be used for drainage, hydrogeological studies of the soil are carried out. If it is water-absorbing, filter models are installed, where moisture is poorly absorbed - accumulative.
Wells serving as a source of water (water supply option) also require preliminary studies related to determining the depth of the aquifer.
2. The graphic part. Consists of drawings of the main units, appearance buildings, roof plan, if any, recommendations for finishing, technologies used, location of lighting fixtures, electric outlets (socket, light bulb).
3. Specification. It includes materials and equipment used for construction.

Tips and Precautions for DIY Well Construction

Construction is fraught with danger, since when digging a mine, a person is in a confined, enclosed space. Having decided to build a structure with your own hands, you should adhere to certain safety rules, which boil down to the following points:

The construction site where the work will be carried out is fenced off. Then it is cleared of unnecessary elements that can accidentally get into the mine. It is forbidden to place heavy devices near the recess. The load they create on the soil can lead to rock collapse.
Sometimes hazardous gases enter the mine, in which case it is installed forced ventilation... To check for foreign matter, an open fire source is lowered down.
When deepening, there is a lack of natural light, so it is necessary to have additional light sources, for example, a flashlight installed on a helmet, a powerful searchlight aimed at the bottom of the dug hole.
It is imperative to provide personal protective equipment - boots, gloves, suits, helmets.
An observer must always be present near the mine, who, in the event of an emergency, takes measures to urgently raise workers.
As it deepens, the walls of the mine are periodically strengthened.
Before starting work, the mechanisms used are checked for serviceability.

There's a lot folk ways, with the help of which the choice is made. You can use dowsing, use a dowsing frame, look around and find a swarm of insects that hover over the source. However, in order to correctly determine the very place, it is enough to adhere to certain rules:

The building should not interfere with the use of other objects, for example, flower beds, finished or planned buildings, garden paths.
On the site, you should choose the most elevated place, this will avoid the ingress of rainwater and soil saturated with it.
The lowest place must be planned for a compost pit, septic tanks, treatment facilities.
Consider the distance from the well to cesspool, it is more than 15 meters.
The structure should be located close to the house, but not too close, the minimum distance exceeds 8 meters.

It is necessary to make a choice on your own, especially if specialists are hired to carry out the work, who, not only without a difference where to dig, the main thing for them is how to do it easier, so they will recommend the place where the soil is softer.

Choice of finishing materials

The work can be done using different building materials. Any of the options chosen has its positive and negative qualities. In order not to be mistaken, to make the right decision, it is necessary to evaluate the components used.

Wood

Wood can be called a classic material, it is suitable both for the decoration of mines and as a basis for the head, well pillars, and roofing. It is used to perform decorative finishing, for example, carving, coloring, complemented by a drawing, an image.

Wood cladding has its own characteristics:

The material is inexpensive. It can be found on the market, in hardware stores, on sawmills.
Raw materials are malleable to processing. Allows you to create beautiful structures that will harmoniously fit into the overall style of the cottage. There is a tool for work in almost every home.
For landscaping, you can use finished finishing products, for example, imitation of timber (false), lining, blockhouse. Such components can significantly reduce the time spent on work and get excellent results.
The structure can be additionally decorated with original carved elements.
It is better to install a roof above the mine, which will protect the depression from precipitation, leaves, and other foreign objects. Moreover, it is a great decorative element.

Decorating the well with wood is a great option. However, the building material has two important drawbacks - poor resistance to a humid environment, it is a good food source for pests. Therefore, before using raw materials for facing, it must be treated with special varnishes, antiseptics.

Brick and its varieties

There are several types of such building materials - silicate, ceramic, raw. You can decorate the structure with any of the listed ones. For example, a red brick will give the object bright color, will look good at the summer cottage. A versatile material is the fired clay version. It can be used either to cover the finished head or to build it completely.

For the construction of a brick krynitsa or its sheathing, you must adhere to certain rules:

The arrangement is made only from raw materials that have a full-bodied structure.
The material absorbs moisture, so the surface must be periodically treated with water-resistant varnishes. Apply a layer of plaster, when it dries, rub in additional cement.
For work, it is advisable to use the same building material with which the house is lined from the outside.
The masonry is both round and square. For the first option, less raw material is used.
The width of the masonry should not exceed two bricks (25 cm).

Stone

Stone designs are popular. Decorating a structure with such material is much more expensive than the options considered. But the result is worth it. The result is a stylish structure with increased wear resistance.

The main characteristics of such a cladding are as follows:

For work, you can use both natural and artificial stone.
Small rounded stones and large cobblestones are used for decoration.
The material is used for finishing the mine and the head.
If the work is done with high quality, the building will last for more than a decade.
To emphasize the structure, you can lay out a path from the same building material to it, install a roof covered with metal tiles on top.

Finishing materials and their combination methods

In addition to the listed options, you can use plastic or siding. The registration is done quickly enough. Porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles look good. It can be smooth or rough, matte or glazed, antique. Separately, you can highlight the clinker tile, consisting of fired shale clay. Over the years, this material does not change the external structure, is resistant to moisture, and resembles brickwork.

If you choose the option of conventional painting and plastering of the structure, then you do not need to use wood, brick or stone for cladding. It is enough to clean the surface of the concrete ring, plaster it, cover with a layer of primer, paint. Also, plaster is often used for brick buildings, and pure painting for wooden ones.

Metal and forged items are mainly used for uprights and roofing. Combined structures are often made, for example, barrel heads made of wooden slats, tied with metal rings.

Design and style

Landscaping is a composition of all the elements located on the site, whether it be an engineering, biological or cultural aspect. Each path, flower garden, buildings must correspond to a certain style. Therefore, the finishing of the well should not contradict the general appearance of the site.

There are many current design options for a well. It all depends on the design style, for example:

Russian. It is a wooden blockhouse, where a manual gate is used as a lifting mechanism. From above it usually has a roof covered with wood shingles. The surface has carved decorations and paintings.
Medieval. The cladding is made of natural stone(cobblestone, granite). Roof supports are made of metal, complemented by forged elements. The roof is in the form of a tent, dome, and has a metal covering.
Oriental. Combines wood and stone. The highlight is the roof, which has a non-standard look, typical of Hindu, Chinese pagodas. For greater effect, a pond or a decorative waterfall is arranged nearby.

Modern. It is used mainly for decorative buildings that imitate different structures in a smaller version, for example, a mill, a tower.
Nautical. Decorate with ropes that wrap around the outer surface of the base. The handle of the gate is changed to the steering wheel, the bucket - to the barrel. Nearby are rounded fragments of rocks, shells, an anchor.
Alpine. A characteristic feature is the absence of racks. The design is due to the fact that the source was used in mountainous conditions. The lower part is faced with stone, and the roof with wood.

A well built in the country or near the house is a demanded structure. However, the concrete ring emerging from the ground has an unfinished appearance and does not look aesthetically pleasing enough. In addition, water from open structures is only suitable for irrigation. The situation will be saved by the installation of the house. It protects the mine from all kinds of contamination and ensures safety, especially for small children. There can be two types - open, closed. The superstructure can be built with your own hands. For clarity, consider a master class in which the procedure for building a house with a gable roof is described in stages:

The first step is to prepare the base around the shaft. We remove part of the soil to a depth of 20 - 30 cm, fill in a layer of rubble, tamp it.
For round heads we measure the diameter, for square heads we measure the width. These data will allow you to calculate the dimensions of the manufactured structure.
In the next step, we make the frame. To do this, it is enough to use a bar with dimensions of 5x10 cm.
Cut off two more beams, the length of which is half from the side of the frame. We fasten them perpendicularly on two parallel beams of the frame in the middle. At the top we connect with a skate.

We proceed with the installation of the rafters. To do this, the upper ends of the uprights are cut on both sides at an angle of 45%.
From the side of the door, we attach a board with a width of more than 40 cm to the frame, it will serve as the basis for installing a bucket.
We mount the finished structure on concrete rings, securing it with bolts.
We install the gate, attach the door to the frame.
We sheathe the protruding part of the shaft and the house itself with boards.
At the final stage, you can decorate the structure.

How to build a canopy for a well

These designs are not limited. They can be round or rectangular, have one or more slopes. A canopy is installed directly on the house or in the ground, concrete, brick, and other bases. So, in order to build such an add-on, we will analyze in detail the following step-by-step master class:

Preparing the base. The pillars can be installed on a columnar, strip, monolithic foundation. Since the upper part is lightweight, strict requirements are not imposed on the base, and two shaped pipes or rounded logs.
After installing the supporting pillars, professional pipes in their upper part, you can put a finished metal roof, build a frame with your own hands. To do this, in the upper part, we fasten the boards of the supporting strapping to the vertical posts.
We start assembling the roof truss. It is better to collect it on the ground, install it ready-made.
After installation, we sheathe the truss with an OSB board.
We cover the roof with metal tiles, corrugated board, and other materials.
Sew up the gables with clapboard, plastic.

Under construction today country houses from block containers and due to the high-quality finishing of such buildings, it is not immediately possible to determine what they are made of. The question is, is it possible to apply a design approach to the seemingly unremarkable shaft of the well? Of course, you can, the main thing is to connect your imagination and choose the right finishing materials!

In this article we will look at how and with what materials the arrangement of wells in the country is performed. Of course, the decoration of such an object can be entrusted to specialized organizations that will cope with the task quickly and efficiently. But, unfortunately, the price of such an order will be high, and therefore it will be better to do this work with your own hands.

Types of design solutions

Methods and materials that allow you to design a well in the country are selected and applied in accordance with the type of water intake shaft.

Consider examples that are relevant today design solutions.

The well in the Russian style is a traditional utilitarian design with a minimum of decorative elements.

As a rule, the structure is the top of the shaft, sheathed with wood and completed with a roof covered with wooden shingles or sheet metal.

Carved ornaments or art painting are used as decorative elements. paints and varnishes... A manual gate with a drum for winding a chain or cable is used as a lifting mechanism.

Shaduf is a technically outdated version of the arrangement of a water intake mine. Nevertheless, this solution looks more than attractive.

The mine is designed using any materials available (wood, brick, stone, etc.). Distinctive feature the structure is a lifting mechanism - a crane.

The mechanism is a beam fixed between two transverse struts. At one end of the inclined beam, a pole is freely attached, at the end of which, in turn, a bucket is fixed. On the reverse side of the beam, a load is attached, which will make it easy to lift a full bucket from the shaft.

Important: Because of design features shaduf, it will not be possible to install a full-fledged roof, therefore, to prevent debris from entering the water intake shaft, it is necessary to provide for the use of a hinged or sliding wooden cover.

Arrangement of wells in the country in oriental style is a traditional construction of a well shaft head equipped with a manual gate and a drum on which a chain or cable is wound.

The roof, made in the form of a pagoda, will give the structure an oriental flavor. In addition, you can apply a decorative waterfall in the place where the remaining water from the bucket will drain.

The bucket, as well as all the trimmings, should be made of natural wood, since products made of galvanized steel will not fit into the aesthetics of the East in any way.

Decorative wells for summer cottages in the form of houses, mills and other miniature buildings are becoming more widespread.

The advantage of such structures is that the design element will cover the well head from debris entering it.

Important: All the solutions listed above should overlap with.

Finishing materials

After we have considered examples of how the design of a well in a country house can be performed, we will determine with what materials it is possible to arrange a water intake shaft.

Ceramic brick- a versatile material that can either be used to veneer an existing concrete head or to build a completely brick head of a shaft.

The advantage ceramic brick is its high strength and resistance to mechanical stress. But you need to remember about the high degree of hygroscopicity of brickwork.

Ceramic absorbs water, and therefore the surface of the head should be coated with a hydrophobic varnish. If this is not done in a timely manner, frequent contact of the brick with water will lead to its early destruction.

Important: Considering the considerable cost of good ceramic bricks, a silicate analogue can be used as an alternative, especially since this material is produced today in different colors.

Ceramic tile- an excellent solution for decorating a nondescript concrete head of a water intake shaft. The design of a well in the country with ceramic tiles is characterized by the ease of performing the planned work and the durability of the finished result.

First of all, the tile, regardless of modification, is resistant to water, and therefore such a finish will last a long time without the need for repair. In order to ensure the maximum resistance of the ceramic cladding to the effects of excessive moisture, it is advisable to use a grout diluted with water glass as a joint filler.

Important: If the budget allocated for Finishing work, limited, instead of ceramic tiles you can use a tile battle, which is several times cheaper and from which you can lay out a mosaic.

Lumber is a good solution for decorating a water shaft in a rustic style.

The instruction for decorating the head of the mine with a tree involves the use of a rounded log or bar, from which a semblance of a log house is laid out with corner connection"In the paw." Also, the roof can be completely assembled from wood.

The low price and ease of machining speaks for the use of sawn timber. But there is a significant drawback, namely, wood is afraid excess moisture... Therefore, unusual lumber is needed.

For example, aspen can be used for finishing, since this breed rots to a lesser extent from long-term contact with water. Again, the tree can be impregnated with special equipment.

If you don't have much money, you can use refined mining as such a special tool. If possible, cover the finished structure with a layer of antiseptic, and after complete drying, apply several layers of varnish.

Metal is a very good finishing material, if, of course, you have the skills to process it.

Decorating wells in the country with the use of forged elements is not so popular, but with a competent approach to business from a metal rod, you can forge and weld the framing of the water intake shaft that passes into the holders of the gate and drum. Again, a roof frame can be assembled from metal, which can be trimmed with polycarbonate.

Of course, the metal finish of the well must be additionally treated, for example, covered with special paints and varnishes that will prevent the appearance of rust.

Important: If the dacha is not electrified, then certain difficulties may arise in working with metal. This problem can be solved by buying or renting a diesel generator for a summer residence.

Output

Now that you know the instructions for choosing and using finishing materials, you can decide what exactly is right for.

When doing DIY finishing, you can apply one of the previously listed design solutions. Or you can not apply ready-made solutions and use your imagination and finish in your own way.

If you have any questions, more useful information you can find it by watching the video in this article.

Digging a well in the country with your own hands is, at first glance, an easy task. In fact, this process has many subtleties, without the knowledge of which it is simply impossible to obtain high-quality water suitable for drinking. We will describe in detail not only the process of its construction, but also the methods of searching for aquifers, as well as installation plumbing systems for supplying water to the house.

Types of wells

The choice of the type of well depends on the depth of the aquifer and the type of soil:

key: are used infrequently when underground sources (springs) are close to the surface; a pit, recessed 10-20 cm into the ground, is covered with crushed stone, then a log house is prepared with a hole to drain excess water
mine: the most common, used for the occurrence of aquifers at a depth of 5-25 m; consists of a trunk, a water intake in the lower part, which is under water, and a head (aboveground part)
Abyssinian (tubular): unlike a well, it is shallower and has a smaller casing diameter; plus pumps in it are used not submersible, but ground-based (often manual); such a structure is inexpensive, however, its service life is short; plus in winter, when groundwater goes deep into the depths, their extraction can be difficult

Log shaft wells by the type of the lower (water intake) part, in turn, are divided into three more groups:

with an imperfect (incomplete) water intake: its lower part does not reach the bottom of the water layer, so the liquid seeps through the bottom or walls; it is this option that is more often chosen when building a well with your own hands; the volume of water in it is quite enough for irrigation and meeting the needs of the family
with perfect water intake: it is located at the very bottom of the aquifer; such structures for private houses are rarely used, because if the water supply exceeds the usual expenses of the family, the water in it will quickly deteriorate and silt
with a perfect water intake, complemented by a sump- deepening into the underlying rock to create a water supply

Seat selection

For some reason, some ordinary people think that water should be present everywhere. It is enough to make the hole deeper and the well is ready. As a result, a wasted mine, wasted time and nerves. Moreover, the vein can pass just a couple of meters from the dug well, which has remained dry.

To this day, the dowsing method has been successfully used to search for a closely located water layer. Once upon a time, branches of viburnum, hazel or willow served as natural biolocators. Today, even experienced drillers often replace them with 90-degree bent copper or aluminum wire pieces. They are inserted into hollow tubes and, holding them in hands, pass the section meter by meter. In the place of close passage of water, the wires begin to cross in the direction of the flow. To be sure, the site is surveyed in this way several times.

When looking for a place for a well in the country, you should also pay attention to the color of the greenery growing on the site. It is more juicy near water. Willow, meadowsweet, ivy and lobster are very fond of such places - where they have chosen a place for growth, they will definitely live. Nettle, horse sorrel, cinquefoil, naked licorice, coltsfoot, horsetail also grow here. But apple trees and plums, on the contrary, take root worse and often die.

Alder, willow, birch, willow and maple will always slope towards the aquifer. Single oaks are also a sign of high water standing. They grow exactly where they intersect.

It has long been noticed that cats like to bask in such places. Dogs avoid such areas. Red ants are also worth watching. They try to place anthills away from water. Near her in the evening, it always winds a large number of mosquitoes and midges. In the mornings, there is always more dew and fog here.

After finding the presumptive location of the aquifer, before digging a well in the country, exploratory drilling is performed. For these purposes, it is allowed to use an ordinary garden drill. Since it will have to go deeper by 6-10 m, its length will have to be increased. If moisture appeared after the well was dug, it means that the location of the water layer has been determined correctly.

If you don't trust the old proven methods, contact a nearby exploration company. In the arsenal of such organizations there are always special geophysical instruments that can accurately determine the close location of the aquifer.

When the layers are below 10-15 m, the idea of digging a well should be abandoned. In this case, you will need to drill a well.

How deep to dig the well?

How to make a “correct” well so that there is always water in it? Its depth depends only on natural factors. Therefore, it is very difficult to determine in advance how many rings will be needed. An approximate reference point can be given by structures located nearby, for example, near neighbors, but this data will also be inaccurate. Unfortunately, there is no method that can accurately tell about the future depth.

To calculate the required number of concrete rings and the depth of the mine, test drilling is carried out. It is used to determine the density of the soil, its composition, as well as the presence of lime slabs near. But even it cannot give an exact result.

Aquifers in the diagrams look like stripes that run underground horizontally or at a slight slope. The catchment part of the well can be located only at its upper boundary (the top of the reservoir), in the center or at the very bottom (the bottom of the reservoir).

To obtain clean water, the mine must extend to the second or even third aquifers. The first of these is the top water - water that accumulates near the surface. Its level is always unstable, plus it gets dirty easily. They use it only for watering. When digging a drinking well, this layer must be passed and go deeper down.

The excavation is continued until the veins are clearly visible, and water begins to flow into the pit in sufficient quantities. It must be left for a day, and on the second day, check its arrival. If the height of the water layer is at least 1.5 m, you can stop digging and start swinging (cleaning) from soil suspensions.

Self-excavation of wells on light sandy soils is dangerous due to the possibility of collapse and blockages. If there are several places on the site with the passage of aquifers, the place with the most dense soil should be chosen. It is desirable that it be elevated in order to avoid the drainage of rainwater into it.

In order not to risk it, it is better in this case to use the services of specialists. The price for the construction of a turnkey well in different areas may vary, so it is better to check it with a specific organization.

What is a bottom filter?

Is a well filter needed? If there is quicksand in it without a bottom filter - a layer of sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebbles, serving to purify the incoming moisture from suspended soil - is a necessity. It will be problematic to get rid of them completely, of course, but he will be able to settle most of the small particles of soil. Such a filter works on the principle of a conventional sieve.

But among the owners of wells (and many specialists) there is often an opinion that such cleaning is necessarily necessary even in the absence of quicksand. Supposedly, only she is able to provide perfectly clean water. Indeed, at first, a small film of special algae and bacteria that eat microorganisms dissolved in water forms in the sand layer. But the service life of such a biological filter is short-lived. Over time, the biofilm layer increases, the filtration rate decreases, and the well quickly silts up.

A properly equipped well should only be filled through the bottom. In practice, it is not always possible to provide only bottom inflow. Water often begins to seep through the walls. In this case, its cleaning through the bottom filter simply does not occur.

Plus a significant backfill layer (and it should be at least half a meter) reduces the volume of water. Its inflow is also decreasing. It becomes difficult to carry out high-quality cleaning of a silted well in the presence of a layer of sand and gravel.

In villages, large stones are sometimes placed on the bottom. But this is only required in order not to muddy the water when scooping up during seasonal shallowing. If the well is deep enough and its level does not sink too low, there is no particular need for this.

If a quicksand is found, in addition to the bottom filter, it will also be necessary to build a special shield made of wood or steel with holes that can restrain the flow of soil mixed with liquid.

What to choose, concrete rings or a wooden frame?

Just digging a well is not enough. He needs reliable protection from the collapse. For this, concrete rings or wood can be used. Brick mines are rarely used - laying them out is too laborious process. Plus, a metal frame is required to strengthen the brick, otherwise the walls will quickly begin to crumble. It is made from profile, reinforcement or durable wood.

Concrete rings will last longer... It makes sense to choose log cabins made of wood if access and delivery of rings to the selected site is impossible. The price of a well made of wood is unlikely to be lower than a structure made of concrete rings, and it will take more time to build it. Yes, and such mines silt up faster, and they will have to be cleaned more often.

The use of concrete rings greatly simplifies and speeds up the work. They are placed on top of each other end-to-end. To avoid displacement, such rings are fastened together with steel staples. To prevent chipping at the edges, you can make 40-60 mm steel strips.

The joints of the rings are coated with concrete mortar and additionally sealed with tarred hemp or liquid glass. On loose soils, it is better to put solid boards at the bottom of the mine so that the rings stand evenly.

Monolithic concrete wells are prepared using formwork... At a considerable depth, concrete is poured first to a shallow depth. Then they continue to dig a hole, making a tunnel under the concrete layer and installing supports for it. After passing another 2 meters, a new formwork is prepared. To make the walls stronger, a time of 7-10 days is kept between each pouring.

For wooden log cabins, you will need a log made of moisture-resistant ash or oak with a diameter of 15 cm. Thicker logs with a thickness of 22 cm or more are cut in half. It is not recommended to take conifers - they will add a little bitterness to drinking water.

The blockhouse is assembled with locks "in the paw", that is, several thorns are prepared at one end of the log, and grooves at the other. This is done first on the surface, marking the number of each crown, and then re-assembled in the mine. The crowns are fastened with pins (metal pins) vertically. The upper rims are additionally reinforced with steel staples.

In order to avoid the penetration of sewage, it is forbidden to locate a drinking well at a distance of closer than 30 m from sewerage and cesspools. In order to avoid weakening of the soil under the foundations, it must be removed at least 8 m from the nearest buildings.

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Construction of a well from concrete rings in stages

We will describe in detail the process of constructing a well in a turnkey dacha. This occupation is quite laborious, and it can take a lot of time.

Digging a well

It is necessary to start work in March (the best time) or August-September, when groundwater drops to a minimum level. In the southern and northern regions of Russia, this period may be shifted.
Don't forget the basic safety rules. Work should only be carried out by two people (one at a time) using a safety rope.
Since wells are often dug by hand, its width is determined by the dimensions human body... The optimal diameter is 0.8-1.5 m. Although, of course, these dimensions are approximate. There is simply no point in making it wider - the amount of incoming moisture will not increase from this.
When using concrete rings, the width of the pit is equal to the width of the ring plus an allowance of 30-50 cm.
Please note that during the digging process, the pit can fill up quite quickly, so you will have to periodically pump out the water.
To prevent the rings from accidentally shifting, it is advisable to purchase products with spike-groove locks. Their connection to each other will be more reliable.
The lowest ring (water intake) must be provided with a bottom and perforations on the walls.
The excavation is continued to a depth equal to the height of the first (perforated) ring. It is installed in such a way that it protrudes 10 cm above the ground.
Under the first ring, 4 recesses are prepared, into which strong wooden supports or a row of bricks are installed.
We continue to dig the shaft under the ring, which is on the supports. It must be dug out slightly under the cone so that the first ring, under the influence of its own weight, can easily go down.
We remove the supports by lowering the ring below. Install a new ring on top.
We continue in the same order to go deeper into the ground, while increasing the rings.
Upon reaching the aquifer, digging is continued until a layer of water of 40-50 cm forms at the bottom.
Further, it must be completely bled out so that the aquifers are clearly visible. The well is covered with a thick film or tarpaulin.
Subsequent work is carried out after 12-14 hours.
To filter the suspended matter of the soil and prevent it from roiling, a layer of coarse gravel 25 cm thick can be poured onto the bottom.
The well is again left for a day to raise water. Its layer should be 1.5 m.
If the water supply in the sump due to low height the formation is not enough, side holes can be made in the walls to collect it.
The gap formed between the log house and the ground is filled with crushed stone or gravel.

Underground gas can enter the well shaft! Although such cases are rare, at the slightest suspicion (hissing, gurgling, the appearance of a foreign smell), lower a bucket with a burning candle into it or throw a bunch of burning straw. To avoid a strong explosion (if there is methane in the mine), move away from it. In the presence of carbon dioxide, a candle or straw, on the other hand, will quickly go out. If the gas does not leave for a long time, in order to understand the problem, you will need to call specialists and the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Clay castle and blind area

The "Clay Castle" serves as a natural barrier that protects against the penetration of rainwater and domestic runoff. To create it around the well to a depth of 50 cm, soil is selected. The width of such a ditch is 30-45 cm. We put wet clay in it. To exclude the formation of voids and cracks, it must be carefully trampled. The top is tamped and ironed with a wide board. For the convenience of walking, you can lay a row of bricks, large stone, or make a blind area of concrete.

In the early years, wells built on clay soil fill up more slowly. They may need to be pumped periodically to flush the springs. In the future, the inflow increases.

Head construction

Decorative well with a brick head

Its purpose is to prevent water pollution on land. After all, the external insulation of the structure is equally important. Without it, tree foliage, insects and wind-blown debris will constantly fall into the well.

The head should rise above the surface at a height of 60-90 cm. It is supplied with a lid and a device for raising water. Even if there is a pumping system, it is not worth giving up the gate with a bucket. After all, electricity can be turned off for a while.

The best finishing materials are wood or brick. It is definitely not worth protecting the head with metal tiles. Its corners are so sharp that they can cut through your skin like a knife. It is not necessary to make its cover too tight - in order to avoid the appearance of mustiness, the well must "breathe".

There is no point in insulating the head. Reliable thermal insulation should be at the level of a pair of upper rings so that the water in the well does not freeze.

The height of a log house or concrete rings should be 0.8-1 m so that a person can safely reach it when removing a bucket without bending too down.

Well swing

The water in the dug well is still cloudy and can only be used for irrigation. For drinking, it is still unsuitable. Purification of water, as well as the bottom and walls of the pit from loose soil, is carried out using a small submersible mud pump:

remember the rule: the first few pumpings are carried out in small portions with a intake of no more than 3/4 of a water column; otherwise, with the intensive flow of new portions of moisture, the bottom will wash out, and there will be no sense from such cleaning
the very first cleaning is done manually; for this you need to go down into the well with an ordinary shovel and a bucket; with so much dirt, the pump is not yet able to cope
the pump is hooked onto a strong cable and installed closer to the bottom, at the gravel pack to prevent sludge from settling
pumping is carried out until the water begins to flow intensively; the number of pump starts per day is not less than four; and this must be done in different modes
drain contaminated water
from time to time, the pump must be flushed with clean water, otherwise it will quickly fail from overload
a well dug in clay soil requires lengthy cleaning; some owners believe that a cloudy liquid in this case is inevitable, but this is far from the case; his mine can and should be pumped

Periodic purification of water from a well is carried out in a similar way. Otherwise, it will become silted and shallow. This is done as it gets dirty.

With absence mud pump the mixture of liquid and soil is removed from the well using an ordinary bucket with a rope tied to it. But this process is very laborious - cleaning must be carried out until the water becomes absolutely clean, without impurities.

When the well is located on quicksand - soil mixed with big amount water - it is unrealistic to clean it. In this case, special drainage systems(bottom filters).

To ensure uninterrupted water supply to the garden house, a pipe cut-out is prepared in advance in one of the concrete rings. They should be laid 30 cm below the level of soil freezing. Otherwise, at the end of winter, the burst pipes will have to be replaced. This indicator is different in each locality, so it should be clarified.

To lay a water supply system in the country from the well to the house, a trench is laid to it. When calculating its depth, the height of the sand and gravel cushion (up to 10-15 cm) is taken into account. HDPE is used for laying the water supply polyethylene pipes made of plastic low pressure... The optimum diameter is 32 mm. You will also need connecting fittings (tees, transitions, bends, etc.).

Since the cost of pipes is minimal, experts advise laying two lines to the well at once. In this case, if a leak appears, you can use the second as a backup.

For mechanical protection against soil pressure, pipes are ironed into corrugations or pipes of larger diameter. Between them it is better to lay a layer of insulation. When pipes are lifted closer to the surface near the basement or unheated basement, they can freeze, therefore additional thermal insulation is required in these places.

For an uninterrupted supply of water from a well in the utility room, it is better to provide a storage tank. After laying the pipes, they are connected to a pump, which is lowered into the water at a distance of 30 cm from the bottom (about its choice a little below).

Selection of pumping equipment

As you know, all types of pumps are divided into two types:

1 Surface: they only have a suction pipe in the water; such units are able to raise it only from a depth of up to 10.3 m; it is to this height that water can rise through the tube, pushed out by atmospheric pressure into the tube; in practice, due to friction losses and fluctuations in atmospheric pressure, this parameter decreases and is equal to 5-7 m; mechanisms with ejectors (water flow accelerators) can lift water from a greater depth, but their efficiency is too low.

2 Submersible: the entire mechanism is completely lowered into the liquid, which allows water to be delivered from a great depth; since such units do not expend suction power, no loss of power occurs; their efficiency is much higher than superficial.

Thus, it is advisable to pump water for summer cottages from deep wells. pumping stations equipped with submersible pumps. It remains only to decide on their power and performance. It is necessary to take into account not only the needs of the family, but also the flow of water in the well itself. Otherwise, it may turn out that an overly powerful unit will idle.

Please also note that the overall efficiency of the system will depend not only on the power of the unit, but also on the number of turns and constrictions of the water supply. With a small inflow of water, it makes sense to purchase a low-power pump, while equipping storage capacity, from which water will be supplied to the house to the taps.

Another important parameter for the pump is the pressure force, that is, the ability to transfer (move) the pumped-out water further along the pipes. This parameter is directly related to the working pressure. That is, for 10 m of a vertically located pipe, there is a pressure of 1 atmosphere.

Water left the well. What to do?

The aquifer is depleted over time, so the amount of moisture in the well decreases, and then it becomes completely shallow. But this can happen no earlier than after 10-25 years of operation. Moreover, the operating time does not depend on the depth of the mine, but on the thickness of the aquifer.

Please note that the well is always subject to seasonal shallowing.... During a prolonged drought, its level always decreases. With the onset of the rainy season, moisture rises back to its usual level. Sometimes it completely disappears with serious geological developments taking place in a given area, or changes in seismological activity, but such cases are very rare.

In most cases, the cause of shallowing is siltation. Over time, the debris that settles to the bottom turns into silt, which clogs the vein, and the inflow decreases. For uninterrupted water supply to the dacha from the well, its periodic cleaning (buildup) is required. We described it in detail above.

If cleaning almost did not help, but moisture still began to flow in, this means that the ducts themselves have silted up. They are washed with water from a tank. Moisture seeping into the aquifer will clean the springs well.

When sampling a part of the aquifer, the well can be dug, that is, the water intake can be lowered a little lower. Teach that such deepening must be done wisely. Do not throw it at the first trickles of water. But sinking to too great a depth is also undesirable. Otherwise, you will close possible fontanelles with concrete rings. Digging is done more often for 3-4 rings.

It is not worth deepening wells with quicksand - it is unlikely that it will be possible to increase the inflow in this case.

For permanent or temporary residence in a suburban area, a water source is required, preferably functioning all year round... One of the simplest and most inexpensive sources of water supply in construction is a well, which can be easily dug out with your own hands, almost without resorting to the services of special equipment.

Stage one. Choosing a place for a well

First, consider the basic requirements for the location of the well.

It should be as close to the house as possible, but not close to the walls.
Also important is the maximum distance from all possible sources of pollution - cesspools, landfills, etc.
In the selected place, there should be no upstream waters (they are found in swampy areas) that can pollute the water in the well.

Despite the mentioned low cost of building a well, certain costs and efforts are still required. Therefore, it is so important to choose the right place so that this one provides constant water supply in the required volumes.

There are many methods for finding a place for a well - using aluminum frames, willow vines, glass jars, by observing natural phenomena or animal behavior. But one of the most effective and at the same time available ways is to study the features of the landscape. We will definitely not find water (or we will find it, but in an insignificant amount) in those areas that:

have significant elevations of the relief;
located near wells or other water intake points;
are located at the steep shore of the reservoir;
densely planted with acacia or pine.

Note! There are also places where the well will produce poor quality water. Such places include low coastlines and dry bogs - the water here often contains large amounts of manganese and iron.

Various depressions and depressions are our search areas. Plants such as willow, lingonberry, birch, and so on are a kind of indicators of the presence of underground aquifers. A specific place for digging should be selected where the crowns of these plants lean. Finally, if the fruits of a recently planted apple tree rot, and it itself is sick, it means that groundwater lies nearby, since this garden tree susceptible to moisture-saturated soil.

From the diagram below, you can get acquainted with the types of plants, as well as with the depth of the corresponding groundwater.

Note! Fog can be another effective indicator. In hot summer in the evening or in the morning, where the water is very close to the surface, fog spreads. The density of the latter is directly related to the proximity of the aquifer. It is characteristic that observing the fog makes it possible to calculate the site for the construction of a well with an accuracy of up to 75%.

Where does the water come from?

At the bottom of the constructed well, water begins to accumulate (it comes from the aquifer, which is also called the horizon) with an area of several tens of meters to several square kilometers. The horizon, which is "thick" enough to fill the well, usually lies at a depth of 4 to 20 m. If the aquifer is still not found at the 20 m mark, then further digging of the well is unprofitable - it is easier to equip.

Stage two. We prepare everything you need

The procedure for the construction of wells is not standardized by any state regulations and standards. The classical device was formed for more than one century, until it took on a modern look.

To make a well with your own hands, you need to prepare:

a tripod made of metal corners or wooden poles;
winch;
rope ladder;
shovel;
scrap;
material for strengthening the mine.

As for the last point, the most promising material is concrete rings. They are strong (reinforced with steel rods ø1 cm and more), durable (service life is 50 years), frost-resistant and waterproof.

product name	Height x Wall thickness, cm	Internal diameter, cm	Weight, kg
KS-7-1	10x8	70	46
KS-7-1.5	15x8	70	68
KS-7-3	35x8	70	140
KS-7-5	50x8	70	230
KS-7-9	90x8	70	410
KS-7-10	100x8	70	457
KS-10-5	50x8	100	320
KS-10-6	60x8	100	340
KS-10-9	90x8	100	640
KS-12-10	100x8	120	1050
KS-15-6	60x9	150	900
KS-15-9	90x9	150	1350
KS-20-6	60x10	200	1550
KS-20-9	90x10	200	2300
KO-6	7x12	58	60
KS-7-6	60x10	70	250

Concrete rings can be:

wall (abbreviation - KS), which are used for arranging the neck and are suitable for all types of wells;
additional - used in cases where standard options are not suitable, since these have non-standard sizes;
Reinforced concrete rings - used for drainage and sewer wells, communication systems, gas and water supply.

There are other types - with an overlapping slab, with a bottom, prefabricated, etc. To avoid displacement of the rings after installation, they are equipped with special grooves that prevent the moment of displacement.

Note! For a well in a suburban area, it is best to use wall products KS-10 or KS-15 (the numbers are the inner diameter in decimeters).

After choosing a place and preparing everything you need, we can start construction.

Stage three. Well construction

Let's make a reservation right away that it won't work alone - you need at least one more person.

We perform all actions in the following sequence.

Step 1. We put the first concrete ring in the place of the future mine. The "slaughterer" undermines the walls of the ring, as it deepens, it sinks deeper and deeper. It is advisable to use a product with pins or tapered points for the first ring to facilitate downward movement.

Step 2. After the top edge of the ring reaches the same level with the ground, put another one on top and continue working. Each ring weighs approximately 600-700 kg.

Step 3. Two people are enough to roll the ring to the place of work. But if it is possible to use a crane, then it is better not to neglect it, since with the help of such special equipment, you can more accurately lower the ring onto the seat.

If the soil is dry and solid, then you can go deeper by 2-3 meters, and after that, using a crane, install several rings in a row.

Step 4. In the same way, we continue the procedure until the aquifer is reached. As practice shows, in a standard work shift (8 hours), 3 concrete rings can be laid.

Note! The proximity of the aquifer can be seen from the small springs gushing from the walls and the rapidly decreasing temperature.

After the appearance of fontanelles, we go deeper for a few more meters, after which we cover the bottom with a "pillow" made of rubble (it will serve as a water filter).

Step 5. The mine is pumped with a drain. The more water is pumped out of the well, the greater its debit will be.

Stage four. We protect the structure from surface water

To keep the well clean, it must be properly protected. Water must enter the shaft only from below, and therefore the walls must be reliably insulated. To do this, we firmly connect the rings to each other, resorting to one of two possible methods.

We drill the walls of the rings and fix them with metal brackets mounted on bolts.
We twist the rings with steel wire, clinging to the loading eyes. To twist the wire, we use a metal rod, for example, a scrap.

Pay attention to the waterproofing of the joints between the rings! If water seeps through the seams, it will contaminate the well. To close the seams, you should use a substance that will not affect the quality of the water.

We strengthen the seams according to the following scheme.

Step 1 . We put pieces of linen rope in the voids between the rings (an excellent material - natural and environmentally friendly).

Step 2. We cover the ropes with a solution of sand, cement and liquid glass... By doing this, we will achieve reliable waterproofing, which, moreover, will be completely neutral in contact with water.

Step 3. On top of the upper rings, we dig a one-meter-deep pit.

Step 4. We waterproof the outer surface of the rings using liquid.

Step 5. We put a thermal insulation layer around the upper rings (we can use any foamed polymer, for example, polystyrene).

Step 6. We fill the pit around the well with clay. This is called a "clay castle".

Video - Clay castle

Stage five. We equip the well

But the construction of the well is not limited to the drilling of the mine and its strengthening. To do this, we equip the upper part of the structure - the head.

We equip a blind area around the well - a small platform made of concrete or carefully compacted rubble. The blind area should go at least 1 m from the mine on each side and, what is important, it is constructed after a certain time after the end of construction, when the soil has settled.

We also build a canopy over the structure to prevent precipitation from entering the mine. If a pump is used to supply water, it is better to close the shaft completely, leaving a small hole for the hose and cable.

As a conclusion. Protecting the well from frost

If the aquifer is too close to the surface, then the water can freeze in winter. In such cases, "" is built over the structure, and for insulation you can use any available material(for example, foam or mineral wool). Moreover, the water supply pipe must be introduced into the mine below the level of soil freezing.

In the diagram below, two wells are used for the system at once - one directly for water supply, the other for supplying water to an intermediate tank.

Video - Building a well

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