Preparing a water supply system in the country for winter. How to drain your water supply before winter

Do not forget to drain the summer water pipes before winter. summer cottage... This process is simple, until the moment of the first freezing.

Tips for preparing the pipeline for winter:

  1. The pump must be carefully pulled out of the well, and preserved for the cold period;
  2. With a storage system in a tank, a special drain valve must be opened.
  3. In places where water is consumed, you must also turn the tap valve to the open position.
  4. Blow out the piping to remove residual water ().

Water supply system conservation process

In order to avoid problems with the pipeline in the country, you should completely drain the water from the water supply system.

The whole point of manipulation before leaving your own country house on cold winter is as follows:
  • disconnect the pump from the system;
  • drain the liquid from it and store the unit in a warm cellar;
  • pump out everything from the pipeline by opening the taps on the lower branches of the system, if they are not there, then remove and blow through the pipeline elements themselves;
  • dry all plumbing fixtures, it is important that moisture does not remain anywhere;
  • disconnect the dishwasher and the washing machine from the power supply and remove the water through the small drain hole.

It is also necessary to preserve the street water supply system, while the pipes not dug into the ground must be thoroughly blown out with a compressor, the fittings must be thoroughly dried. Remove the shut-off valves and remove all moisture, if it is not possible to remove it, then simply leave the taps open and move the lever to a half-open position.

Pipe conservation

When preparing a summer cottage for the winter, it is imperative to dry all appliances and preserve them. To do this, the water in the house is cut off and all the electricity is turned off, which feeds the water heating elements and the liquid is drained from the toilet bowl. It is mandatory to check whether the outlet taps of the main water supply route are open.

To ensure that all moisture from the pipes is removed, they are dried using a compressor with a large air flow.

Well abandonment

It is easy to properly preserve the well for the winter. After such a procedure, it will be ready for work in the spring, and in winter it will not be used, the access of liquid to it in the cold season will be completely blocked. After the water is drained from the heating units, nothing threatens the well.

It is necessary to close the mouth: screw on the cap to protect it from precipitation and close it tightly with a sealed film

Well conservation at their summer cottage

In this case, you first need to isolate the wellbore entrance. This can be done with the help of an insulated head, it will reliably preserve the well and protect it from various climatic precipitations.

An excellent option for the insulated head is a log cabin with a flat roof made of iron sheet.

.

Output

It is not at all difficult to drain water from the summer water supply system for wintering if during installation this function was included in the water supply system, both in the street and in the house itself. The logical solution to this problem will be easier if the pipe design was carried out by true professionals.

In a country house, where they live only from spring to autumn, the water supply system is mothballed before leaving. If you know how to drain the water from the pipes in the country for the winter, carry out this work correctly, there will be no unpleasant consequences in the form of a defrosted system and plumbing equipment.

Water supply pipes of a country house.

Conservation of the water supply system of the summer cottage

Frost can destroy pumping equipment, pipes, household appliances, if you leave liquid in them for the winter, when the system is not insulated, but country house not heated. Therefore, water is removed from wherever it can freeze. It is convenient to do this if a liquid drainage system is thought out during the construction of a water supply system.

To do this, install shut-off and control valves:

  1. There is a tee with a tap on the water supply pipe to the house in front of the check valve.
  2. On the inner wiring, at the lowest points, there are drain valves.
  3. If pipes are under flooring, install compressor adapters to purge the system.
  4. On the pipe leading to the boiler, in front of the check valve, there is a tee with a tap. The same fittings are mounted on the outlet hose.
  5. Do not use single-lever mixers, which burst in cold weather if there is even a little liquid left in them. Install ceramic taps with rubber gaskets.

Such preliminary work, taken into account in the design of the water supply system, facilitate the discharge of water for the winter.

Drainage of domestic water supply

To drain the water from the pipeline leading to the house, open the tap, which is located in front of the check valve. You can hear the murmur of liquid and noise from the emerging air bubbles. If there is no special valve, disconnect the pipes at the very bottom and drain the water.

Go to the water heater, which is pre-cooled. If there are no drain taps, unscrew safety valve, connect a piece of hose. The nut is released on the outlet pipe - air is sucked in from the boiler, the water is drained through the connected hose. If the liquid is hot, they do not drain into the septic tank - bacteria will die from the boiling water. A long hose is taken out into the street, they are dumped.

Some water remains in the washing machine. It is located in the hose that runs from the tank to the pump. It is squeezed and, using it like a pear, remove the residues that go into the drain hose. Turn the car over, placing it on the roof. This will get rid of the liquid that remains in the unit. In this position, he is left to winter.

Drain the shower. First, unscrew the watering can. The taps are opened in turn. They use a compressor connected to a hose, an air pump, or blow air out of their lungs. The position of the valves is changed to drain the liquid from the supply hoses for cold and hot water.

Proceed to the toilet. Drain the cistern. The cleaner is pumped out of the water seal using a pump, syringe, sprayer. If odors seep from the septic tank, an anti-freeze car fluid, saturated saline solution is poured. In the spring, they are removed without flushing into a septic tank - it is detrimental to the microflora.

Unscrew all the siphons, free from the remaining liquid in the glasses. Remove filters, pour out water. Do not forget about the drain if it is used in the shower stall for the outflow of water.

The pumping station remained, which was previously disconnected from the network. Unscrew the plug, the water is poured into the prepared dish. It is advisable to blow it with compressed air so that the remaining liquid leaves the hydraulic tank. If water remains in it, the rubber membrane will be damaged during freezing.

If the pipes of the internal wiring are located strictly horizontally, the water will not completely leave them by gravity. Compressor purge required.

Conservation of street water supply

At the dacha, they often use summer water supply for irrigation, outdoor showers, and car washing. The pipes laid on the surface are the first to suffer from frost. If there is a drain valve in front, open it. Then the pump can be left in the source for the winter - it will not freeze. When there is no drain valve, pull out the pump, disconnect it from the water supply hose. When the water is drained from the system, all taps are opened.

Emptied storage tank, a container for a summer shower. The watering can is removed from it, the tap is turned on, the remaining liquid is removed.

For the drain to be effective, the pipes must be sloped. Then the water will not stay in any place. Even a small amount of it, when frozen, can break the tightness. If the required slope is not there, connect the compressor and blow the pipes with compressed air. Such an operation will not interfere, even if a drain valve is installed on the line at the end point.

Conservation of street water supply.

Summer water supply hoses are unwound, freed from water, removed for winter storage. Pipes dug shallow into the ground are blown through. Fittings that come out to the surface are removed, dried, stored indoors until spring. If the taps are not removed, they are left open. Particularly affected by frost Ball Valves... They are left half-open on the street for the winter.

Plastic pipelines are not as afraid of freezing as steel ones, but threaded fittings do suffer. Therefore, it is better to use welded joints. Do not collapse from freezing polypropylene pipes... They are used if it is not possible to blow through the water supply with a compressor for conservation.

Suspension of the well for the winter

Mothballing of the well, which will not be used in winter, begins before the onset of frost. It is convenient to carry out operations if check valve mounted in an accessible place immediately after the pump. Some models of submersible pumps are equipped with a built-in valve.

Conservation summer option wells are carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Turn off the power supply.
  2. Open the water valve.
  3. Expect a drop in system pressure. When it reaches 0.5 atm, the automatic valve opens. It is mounted below the level of soil freezing on the supply hose.
  4. Unscrew and remove the control unit.

If, a hydraulic tank with automatic equipment is in the house. The pipes are located below the freezing point.

To mothball the well, the pump is disconnected from the electricity, a water tap is opened in the house. When the pressure in the system drops, a valve is triggered. The water from the pipeline leading to the house is discharged into the well.

If the well is equipped with a caisson, the pumped storage tank and automation are located mainly in it.

Conservation is carried out in several stages:

  1. The electricity is cut off from the pump. Open the shut-off valve on the piping to the house.
  2. They descend into the caisson. Open all the taps, except for the one on the riser to connect the irrigation of the site.
  3. They are waiting for the water to drain into the well. Open the watering tap, drain the remaining liquid.

It is not necessary to lift the pump out of the well. The temperature in it is above zero, the water does not freeze. They take out the equipment and send it to storage when they are afraid of thieves.

Well preservation for the winter

To prepare the summer cottage for the winter, you need to clean it, free the system from water. If you leave your pump for the winter, it can freeze or be stolen.

Preparation of the well for winter consists in insulation. If water freezes in it, the mine is damaged. With poor waterproofing between the joints of reinforced concrete rings, ice plug... In this case, the trunk is warped, repairs will be required.

The likelihood of a well freezing depends on its depth - the lower the water level, the less this possibility. If the structure is in a lowland, where the aquifer is 1-2 m from the surface, the well freezes through the walls of the trunk. If it is made of wood, then the frost is not terrible. But most of the mines are now reinforced concrete, the risk of freezing is greater.

First of all, the shaft of the well is insulated at the entrance. It is good to build on the head, which will also protect from snow and leaves. The warmest material is a wooden frame with a roof. If MDF, thin boards are used, additional insulation with thermal insulation materials is required.

On winter period an insulating cover can be installed in the barrel. Its place is below the freezing of the soil, but above the water.

Manufacturing is simple:

  1. 2 discs are cut out of plywood according to the internal size of the shaft. The lower one is covered with waterproof paint, wrapped in a foil to protect it from decay.
  2. The disc is suspended in the barrel with cables. A heat insulator is placed on top.
  3. The second disk is lowered so that it does not reach the insulation by 0.5 m. There is another layer of heat-insulating material on it. An air gap forms between the plywood discs, which increases the quality of insulation.

The well is closed with a lid to prevent debris from entering.

If the water is close to the surface, it will freeze in winter. Insulating the entrance will not bring the desired result - the cold will penetrate through the walls.

They do this:

  • a pit 0.5 m wide is dug around the mine to a depth of 1 m;
  • wrap the top ring with insulation;
  • the trench is covered with a layer of gravel 0.5 m thick;
  • they throw earth from above.

Preparing the well for winter.

A well prepared for winter is immediately ready for use in the spring. A pump is lowered into it, connected to water supply and electricity, and they begin to use it.

Traditionally, it is believed that the dacha is intended only for summer vacations, and with the arrival of cold weather, the house must be mothballed until spring. But as the experience of FORUMHOUSE users shows, many continue to go to the dacha in winter, getting out there for the weekend. And so that the trip for 2-3 days does not turn into a continuous one headache, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the operation of the cottage at negative temperatures.

So, from this article you will learn:

  • What features must be taken into account before starting the winter operation of the summer cottage.
  • Why it needs to be insulated.
  • Than to heat in winter.
  • How to mount a winter water supply system.

Features of the winter operation of the cottage

To understand what the requirements are for the winter operation of a summer cottage, you need to understand the concept of "comfortable living conditions". Electricity, heat and water are three whales comfortable life in any country cottage. The same applies to the dacha, with the amendment that the house will not be operated regularly, but on short visits. Those. in winter, the dacha may freeze, and upon arriving at the site, the building will have to be quickly put into operation.

But the warming of the dacha is the first step towards its winter operation. The second stage is the choice of heating the house.

Winter heating for summer cottages

Quick exit heating equipment for a given temperature regime- the first requirement for the heating system country house... This is important because upon arrival at the dacha (for example, on Friday evening), the user will have neither the time, nor the energy, nor the desire to engage in commissioning the heating system, chopping wood or burning the stove for a long time.

Evgeniy2011 FORUMHOUSE user

I often go to the dacha on weekends in winter. I want to take a break from the city and breathe clean air... Summer cottage, made of logs, but insulated. Of course, the building freezes over in a week. I heat a room of 25 sq. m brick heating and cooking stove. A heat exchanger is inserted into the firebox. Heating system with natural circulation of antifreeze coolant, plus 3 batteries are installed under the windows.

The following parameters of this summer cottage heating system are interesting. Depending on the outside air temperature, the heating rate is 3-5 ° C / hour. The comfortable room temperature (up to + 25 ° C) is set approximately 12-20 hours after starting the system, until the walls, ceiling and furniture heat up. The stove has to be heated 1-2 times every 24 hours.

As you can see, the system has a large temporal inertia. Therefore, another approach to suburban system heating.

Alexander_S FORUMHOUSE user

WITH brick stove you can't get heat right away. At my dacha ( frame house, insulated with 25 cm of glass wool), a heating system based on infrared panels, supplemented by a convection fireplace, was installed. On weekdays, infrared heating, using a programmable thermostat, keeps the temperature in the house at + 5 ° C. By Friday evening, the thermostat gives a command to raise the temperature to + 20 ° C in the bedroom and + 15 ° C in the living room, and upon arrival at the dacha, I light up the fireplace stove.

As a result of this scheme, at -15 ° C outside, in 1-1.5 hours, it is possible to raise the temperature (on a total area of ​​the dacha of 55 sq. M.) From + 15 ° C to + 27 ° C .

It is also possible to assemble a system based on a GSM socket and a 1 kW IR ceiling heater. A few hours before arrival, we send SMS to the GSM outlet, and the house will warm up in advance for arrival at the dacha.

Note that such systems are volatile. In the event of a power outage, an accident at a substation, if the house is not assembled, arriving at the dacha, we risk, instead of rest, to deal with the consequences of the accident.

Therefore, our users are guided by the principle: the simpler the heating system, the better.

WAAD FORUMHOUSE user

I have a dacha (frame for 90 sq. M.), Where I come in winter. I arranged a sauna in the house, in which I placed a 15 kW bath stove, made of good thick steel with cast iron grates and with an elongated firebox, loading another 70 kg of stones from above. Moreover, in addition to its direct function, it helps me quickly warm up the house in cold weather.

It happens like this - upon arrival, the stove is first flooded. While the snow is being cleaned outside and other household chores are being done, after 15 minutes the temperature in the sauna is above zero, because a small room warms up quickly. After about 20 minutes you can rest in the room, because it's already warm in it. Further WAAD throws more wood into the stove, accelerating the temperature in the sauna to + 45-50 ° C, and turns on forced ventilation, which creates excess pressure in the sauna, forcing air through the nozzle into the room.

As a result, when the door is closed, warm air begins to flow into the living room through a special hatch on the other side, and the house warms up quickly.

Features of the winter water supply system of the summer cottage

So, we have warmth, but a comfortable stay in the country is impossible without a reliable water supply system. We have already written above that the water left in the pipes, when frozen, will rupture them. The water must be drained, and this will have to be done every winter visit to the cottage.

To somewhat simplify your task, you can use this trick. For example, in order not to pump out water from the knee of the toilet bowl with a syringe, and then plug the hole with a sponge for washing cars, which will help avoid the spread of unpleasant odors from the septic tank, you can use the "old-fashioned" method. In case of frost down to -10 ° C, pour a concentrated solution of table salt into the knee (salt can be dissolved in hot water).

WAAD

If there is no danger of large frosts, it is enough to throw 2-3 tablespoons of salt into the toilet bowl, and such salted water will not freeze.

Move on. The water supply requires a water source. It can be a well, an Abyssinian, or an ordinary well. We have already talked about all of them in detail. If you choose a well, you can solve the main problem of the country water supply - freezing of water in the pipes.

This is how it is done. A well-insulated thermos box is erected over the well (as insulation for the walls of the sarcophagus, you can use expanded polystyrene 10 cm thick), which allows you to keep the heat of the water column in the well above 0 ° C in any frost.

If your house in the country is designed for freezing in the cold season, then you need to drain all the water from the water supply system and all water-containing units each time before leaving the house. The concept of freezing a house in winter has its pros and cons.

TO cons constant heating of a seasonal residence includes energy and, therefore, financial costs, the risk of power outages and freezing of not drained water in the water supply, the risk of ignition of electric heating devices. TO cons of the concept of freezing at home include increased wear and tear of structural elements of the house and interior decoration with a more frequent crossing of zero, the need for labor to drain the water every time before leaving. To the pluses of the freezing concept include cost savings, reduced risk of accidents and fires.

In general, the optimal operating mode of the house depends on your lifestyle: if you come to the country house every weekend in winter, it is more advisable to keep the house heated: + 5C using electric floors, for example, as one of the most economical and safest heating means. Before arriving at the dacha or in severe frosts, you can turn on additional convectors via SMS (with the installation of an appropriate controller), which will raise the temperature in the house. If in winter you do not come to the dacha, or you come a couple of times in half a year, then there is no point in keeping the house heated. And so that the pipes do not freeze, the water from the water supply must be drained.

Draining water before winter

In order to minimize the laboriousness of draining water from the water supply before winter, you need to think through several important details before designing the water supply and sewerage system.

What you need to provide for a convenient regular drainage of water:

1. A tee and a drain valve in front of the check valve in the pipe supplying water to the house (in the well or in the caisson of the well.

2. In case of emergency freezing, winter operation, the pipes should be made of material that does not tear during expansion - for example, low-pressure polyethylene, polypropylene, etc.

3. In each branch of the piping in the house, install a tap at the lowest point to drain the water.

4. If it is impossible to get to the lowest point of the water supply system (pipes are sewn into the floor and there is no basement), provide tees for connecting an adapter to a car compressor for purging each branch of the pipeline.

5. When connecting the water heater, provide a tee and a water drainage valve with a hose nozzle upstream of the check valve on the pipe entering the water heater. And the same tee with a tap on the outlet pipe from the water heater for quick air supply when draining the water.

6. If the volume of water heating is more than 50 liters, provide a sewer branch that does not go into the septic tank in order to prevent the death of the microflora of the septic tank during discharge a large number boiling water. Either merge hot water through a hose to the street, but not to a septic tank.

7. The choice of mixers. If possible, use traditional ceramic or rubber-sealed taps, rather than single-lever taps, which are sensitive to freezing of residual water.

8. Expansion diaphragm tank. The amount of residual water in the rubber bulb after the water has been drained must not cause damage due to freezing. The author checked this on his tank - the tank survived 5 winters, but on the 6th the rubber bulb had to be replaced.

9. Location of the washing machine. Do not forget to drain water from washing dishwashers etc. devices. Unfortunately, in this case, a simple drainage of water cannot be dispensed with - manipulations in turning over will be needed washing machine or by blowing with a compressor. Therefore, when choosing a place for it, ensure free access to it.

Below is an illustration of how to drain water from a simple temporary plumbing, specially unprepared to drain water before winter.

The first step is to drain the water from the supply line. For this, we have a tee and a tap in front of the check valve in the well (1). Use a long stick (3) to open the tap (2). We hear a murmur and observe air bubbles rising from the tap: the water is drained. Second step: draining the water heater. Cool the water well beforehand. If there are no special drain taps, unscrew the safety valve on the supply pipe (on the right) and connect the water drain hose. Then we release the nut on the outlet pipe - air is sucked in and the water from the water heater begins to drain into the hose.
If there are no special taps for draining water from the water supply system, we disconnect the pipe joint at the lowest point and drain the water from the pipeline. If there is a special tap for draining water, we use it.
Disconnect the drain and the supply hose of the washing machine. We drain the water from them. We turn the washing machine upside down. This will get rid of the remaining water in the lower points of the drain system. In this position, we leave the washing machine for the winter with a long trip. (it is not joke!)
Draining the washing machine. The rest of the water is hidden in the corrugated cabin going from the tank to the pump: we squeeze the tube like a pear and blow out the rest of the water - they will come out through the drain hose. We disconnect the supply pipes of the flexible hose of the shower stall. We drain the remaining water from them.
Remove and blow through the rain shower head - water always remains in it. We put the watering can in place. Draining water from the shower. We start purging the shower stall taps. Remove the shower head, put the three-way tap (1) in the hand shower position. And alternately open the hot and cold water tap (1) blowing the pipes through the shower hose (you can use a compressor, a frog pump, the power of your lungs for blowing). Then we alternately change the position of tap 2 in order to drain the remaining water in it.
The most enjoyable part of the job is draining the toilet bowl: you can use any household pump for this (bicycle, sprayer, enema, Janet's syringe). We scoop out everything clean. If your sewage system tends to emit pleasant aromas (my septic tank does not smell), then pour antifreeze into the toilet. In the spring, it will also need to be pumped out, and not drained into a septic tank. In addition to the toilet, it will remove water from the siphons of sinks and floor drains. Draining water from the filter: Remove the fine filter housing (it is unscrewed clockwise) and the coarse filter housing. Pour out the water and discard the used cartridge.
Draining water from pumping station: Open the main plug on the pump housing of the pumping station and drain the water into a previously prepared container. We unscrew the plug on the side of the pump body and thoroughly purge the pump, getting rid of the remaining water. If you are using submersible pump in a well or a well - then do not worry, the water there will not freeze in the conditions of a normal winter.

Are you leaving your country house for the winter? Only come there on weekends? In any case, all systems must be properly prepared for wintering ...

PREPARING THE WATER PIPE FOR WINTER

How to properly prepare the water supply for the winter?

If the house will not be used in winter, then the water from the water supply system - up to the well or the caisson of the well - must be drained. Please note that the number of drain valves depends on the system configuration. If there are no “bags”, then one drain valve at the lowest point is sufficient. And if there are loops, bags (for example, the pipe reaches the door, and then passes above or below it and returns to the previous level), then the taps will have to be installed on each of them, otherwise a stagnant zone may form, from where water cannot be expelled and it will damage the pipe in winter.

Blowing will help here if the height difference is not more than 30 cm, and the pipe itself is thin (1 / 2-3 / 4 inches), but for this it is better to use not a car compressor - it is rather weak, but a special construction one, which gives about 6-8 atm. The same unit is also useful if the pipe has a long horizontal section or a counter-slope towards the drain. It is worth disconnecting the flexible connections from the mixers (after all, water can remain in them too), and leave the mixers themselves in the open position.

If in winter it is planned to visit the house only on weekends and on holidays, then in order not to drain the water supply system every time, better home also heat, or rather, maintain the temperature in the premises in the region of 5-10 °, then the water in pipes, taps and boilers will not freeze. Many modern heating boilers allow you to set such a mode of operation. In addition, a leakage protection system should be installed in the bathrooms. The DHW recirculation system, if any, can be turned off in order to save.

Whether there is a modern materials able to withstand ice pressure if water remains in the system?

Reinforced-plastic pipes, copper and steel ice will surely break. As for polypropylene and polyethylene, it is impossible to answer unequivocally: it all depends on the diameter of the pipes, the method of their connection. For example, a polypropylene pipe will probably not suffer, some will burst earlier. threaded connection or brass faucet. HDPE pipe can withstand, but compression fittings are likely to become unusable. However, if the water supply is frozen and does not burst, it is necessary to carefully inspect it and replace the damaged areas.

What are the most vulnerable places in the water supply system? How to insulate them so that they do not freeze? Do I need to insulate the well?

If the house and engineering systems in it are correctly made, there should not be such places. But sometimes water is introduced into the house above ground level or pipes are laid through cold unheated basements, garages, verandas. These mistakes must be corrected before they cause damage. The pipes are insulated with foamed rubber or polyethylene foam in 2 layers, any heating cable is placed under the insulation, and outside they are protected from water and UV rays. Most cheap way-wrap with fiberglass and paint thickly oil paint, you can use modern protective casings of the ENERGOPAK type. But of course, such a technology will only protect if the electricity is supplied without interruption. Another technique that prevents water from freezing in pipes is to constantly leave a small stream of water flowing.

The well, if the water is higher than two rings from the ground level, is insulated with 10-cm foam polystyrene plates, wrapping them on the outside with fiberglass. Good insulation- snow. Some owners cover their wells with snow completely.

The well, if the caisson is correctly made, does not need to be insulated. If it is small, it is prepared for winter in the same way as a well.

The builders have paved water pipes at a depth of 0.5 m. Is it possible to somehow insulate them with something?

Oh sure!

The depth of soil freezing is a value that depends on many factors: temperature, thickness of the snow cover, and the density of the soil itself. In the Central region, the depth of soil freezing is 1.4-1.5 m. But this is possible only if there are frosts in the region of minus 28-30 ° for a month and there is no snow at all. In practice, over the past ten years, in places where I had to work with the soil in winter, it did not freeze deeper than 0.6-0.7 m.If the pipe is laid at this level or higher, thermal insulation plates are laid on top (expanded polystyrene 10 cm thick) , covering them with film or fiberglass. You can also add additional snow on top.

The non-return valve is installed in a subfield and cannot be reached. How to prepare such a water supply system for winter?

The simplest answer is that there is no need to install a check valve where it cannot be replaced or repaired. They are usually installed immediately after the pumps, that is, where

they are really needed. If you have such a situation that the valve is located in a subfield, you will now have to find a way to get there and dismantle a potentially dangerous area for the system. Otherwise it will cost more.

Do I need to drain the water from the boiler? There is an opinion that this cannot be done, the tightness of the joints will be broken ...

What is a boiler? This is, in fact, a barrel in which the heating element is installed. Leave a barrel of water outside for the winter - and see what happens in the spring.

How to prepare the summer water supply system for wintering, which we use for watering.

The scheme is, in general, the same. Water is drained from it if the pipes are buried in the ground. In the event that they are laid on or above the ground, they should be dismantled for the winter, then the safety of the water supply system can be guaranteed. That is why, when arranging something similar on the site, it is worthwhile to immediately provide for detachable connections.

Preparing heating in the country for winter

Another system that requires careful attention to itself is the heating system.

Before the start of the heating season, it is necessary to check the pressure in the heating system, the operation of the pumps, clean the filters, bleed the air from the radiators, pipes and pumps, check the draft in the chimney. It is also imperative to carry out the boiler service.

All weak points must be repaired in advance: the non-freezing liquid is very fluid, and even a small gap in the connection can lead to unpleasant consequences.

There is also another feature when working with a coolant - you need to monitor its service life (it is indicated on the canister) - 3-5 years, as a rule. After that, the liquid must be replaced, otherwise you may encounter many troubles, such as sedimentation on the walls of the boiler and boiler heat exchangers, on the pump impeller, clogging of filters. Pre-cleaning of pipes is not needed here. How do I dispose of used antifreeze? It is best to hand it over to specialized companies that do this. But on the site, into a ravine or into the sewer, it cannot be drained.

If water has been poured into the system, it is enough to simply drain it and fill in an anti-freeze liquid. The main thing is that the pipes do not stand dry for a long time: they rust and become clogged faster.

As for the boiler, it must be serviced twice a year, at the beginning and at the end of the heating season, and even more often for diesel and solid fuel boilers (determined by the degree of pollution of the boiler heat exchanger) and the color of the smoke. The smoke of a well-regulated boiler is like steam, while black clouds warn of problems. Entrust this work better for professionals... If you consider yourself such, then you need to find instructions for service to your boiler and carry out all the work indicated in it. Just keep in mind that the boiler operation manual for the user, which comes in the box with the boiler, and the repair and maintenance manual, intended specifically for service specialists, are two different documents. None of the manufacturers of modern boilers will transfer such instructions to the end user of their products - only to authorized service centers.

PREPARING THE SEPTIC FOR WINTER AND WINTER

So how do you prepare a septic tank for winter? Do you have a simple storage tank where wastewater is accumulated, or an overflow septic tank is installed - a system of two or more tanks with additional soil treatment, where wastewater is settled and partially purified, or a sealed tank of a deep biological treatment station - these rules for pre-winter preparation of the system are the same for all types of treatment facilities.

The main thing is not to pump out the septic tank completely, it must be filled by 2/3 of the volume. Firstly, this will protect the structure from surfacing in the spring, when the level groundwater high. Secondly, it will reduce the pressure on the walls of the septic tank and prevent it from depressurizing. Thirdly, the bacteria living in the drains will "warm" the septic tank.

In autumn local autonomous sewerage must be inspected and cleaned. The stations are made so that they can be serviced independently.

Having opened the lid, inspect the operation of the station, the compressor (if it makes noise, it means it is working),

a drainage pump (must pump out water), airlifts (pump liquid between chambers), aerators (air bubbles rise from them).

Pour some water from the aeration tank into a transparent container (the second chamber after the receiving chamber) and let it settle. If the sediment is more than 30%, you need to pump out 1/3 of the sludge from the aeration tank using a drain pump.

Then open the mamut pump. Most stations for deep biological treatment have it. This is a regular pump with a plug, in simple words- a hose that is under pressure.

Remove the plug and use a drain pump to pump the processed sludge into a container, bucket or onto the ground (sludge can be used as fertilizer for flower beds, rose gardens).

And the last thing to do is to get out and rinse the main pump, coarse sewage filter, hair catcher, damper (removable parts). For this purpose, you can use a sink high pressure or a regular hose from a water supply or pump. It is also necessary to wash the walls of the station and the air filter by unscrewing the compressor cover. Remove all inorganic waste (plastic bags, rags, toys, kitchen utensils) from the receiving chamber.

If the biological treatment plant will be operated in winter, it is best to insulate the cover from the outside. For this purpose, isolon, foam, polystyrene, or any other insulation, including the simplest foam, is suitable (but to protect it from water, you need to wrap it in plastic wrap and press it with bricks). Only the air intake is left open. This will be enough for the station to function normally in winter.

If you plan to leave Vacation home until spring and, accordingly, turn off the station, it will have to be "mothballed". For this purpose, 20% of the liquid is pumped out from each chamber. Taking four blank plastic bottles, fill them 1/3 with sand, close them, tie ropes to their necks, tie them together so that it is convenient to extract them in the spring, and place such a "float" in each chamber. This technique should be used in any type of septic tank. The bottles will take a hit when the water, having frozen, will press on the walls, and thereby keep the septic tank intact.

For the winter, remove the drain pump and compressor from the station and place in a dry, warm room, and cover the station with foil. In the spring, it will be enough to open the station, connect the electrical equipment, remove the "floats", add clean water to the operating level and turn on the station - and the septic tank will be ready for the new season.

APPROXIMATE DIAGRAM OF AERATION STATION DEVICE (ON THE EXAMPLE OF TOPAS STATION)
A - receiving chamber; B - aerotank; B - sludge stabilizer; G - secondary sedimentation tank;
D - purified water chamber (not available in all models);
E - control unit;
1 - input of effluents;
2 - filter of coarse fractions;
3 - inlet chamber aerator;
4 - main airlift; 5 - aerator for aeration tank; 6 - recirculation airlift;
7 - secondary sedimentation tank (pyramid);
8 - circulation airlift;
9 - stabilized sludge airlift;
10 - compressors;
11- device for collecting non-recyclable particles;
12 - cover of the aeration station;
13 - air intake;
14 - outlet of purified water;
15 - hose of the mamut pump for sludge pumping

Adjustable spanners Aluminum alloy large open wrench universal wrench ...

Did you like the article? Share it
Print article
To the top