Floor leveling after tiles. How to level the floor in the bathroom - step by step instructions

From the author: hello to everyone who learns to make repairs! The second construction education, of course, is not superfluous, but to be an absolute ace in all professions needed by mankind is simply unrealistic, agree? Now, thanks to express courses and the availability of information on the Internet, you can independently perform any complex repair work, even level the floor for tiles. We have prepared step-by-step instructions and tips for those who have just decided to devote themselves to a time-consuming process and seek to learn the secrets of an ideal floor surface.

One of the most common flaws in old buildings and new buildings is the uneven surfaces of walls and floors. If your plans are to make repairs once and there is no desire to extend the “torture by construction work” to your household and neighbors, then you should carefully prepare for the process of leveling the surfaces being repaired.

All work can be done by hand. At certain stages of the work, you may need help, but any family member who can courageously and calmly follow all your recommendations will cope with this.

There are two main types of preparatory work:

• dismantling the old coating or uneven floor;
• using a leveling screed.

Now we will consider how to make facing work not only aesthetic, but also durable.

A source: http://edikst.ru

Preparation for laying tiles begins with a clear understanding of the overall scope of work and an assessment of the condition of the existing surface. If you have plans to prepare a wooden floor, then you should evaluate the quality of the wooden coating and provide for antibacterial and antifungal treatment of boards and logs.

The next step - along the entire perimeter of the walls of the selected room, you need to make a mark of the "finishing level" - after all the work with a leveled surface, you will have to go to the line you designated. Depending on what difference will be between the level of the "rough" floor and the "finishing" floor, we will choose the leveling method.

1. The "rough" line is 2–5 cm lower than the "finish" line, the floor surface is uneven:
2. The "rough" line below the "finish" line by more than 5 cm provides for the only rational method- backfilling or raising the floor level by additional means.

Raising the floor level with additional means

How to work with concrete floor? First of all, it is cleaned of debris. The surface is moistened and a rough seal is made with a cement-sand mortar of the identified potholes and cracks.

If you are going to lay tiles in the bathroom, you need to give a day for full hardening. After that, we lay waterproofing - two layers of technical cellophane, making an overlap on the walls of about 20 cm. Cellophane strips are connected with adhesive tape. Now you can start raising the level of the "rough" floor, using:

5–7 cm of expanded clay / brick chips are poured onto cellophane and leveled. The backfill will serve as an excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing layer; it is necessary to lay a double layer of cellophane on it again to consolidate the effect;

A source: http://zoneplitki.ru

It is important not to make a mistake and not to buy a self-leveling floor - it is intended for decorative finishing work. A feature of the self-leveling mortar is that in a larger layer of application to the surface, it can reach 10–15 cm.

Please note that fast-hardening self-leveling mortar and cellophane waterproofing must be done under the mortar on the “rough” floor. A day after hardening, we prime again and apply a second “rough” layer of 5-6 mm, which will hide small bumps and drops.

Important: when the screed hardens, drafts are unacceptable. During the week, you need to moisten the surface without stepping on it!

• final alignment.

On a raised floor, with laser level or a level, we determine the level of finishing alignment. The spiked roller will help remove air bubbles. Two weeks of waiting, and you can lay the tiles.

Important: after a week, you can put a board on the floor and walk around the room.

Dry screed for tiles

For dry rooms (kitchen, toilet) can be used, for the bathroom this option is undesirable:

• CSP (cement particle board);
• waterproof plywood.

Leveling without screed

In what cases can and should I choose the alignment option without a screed? This question arises if:

1. Low ceiling height.
2. It is categorically impossible to exceed the permissible norms of the load on the floor.
3. The unevenness of the floor is negligible.

Experts offer several ways to carry out repair work floors without pouring concrete screed:

1. Scraping a wooden floor.
2. using a mixture of PVA glue and wood shavings.
3. lag system from wooden planks and bars. A laborious process that requires care and precision. Strips of plywood with a thickness of 12 mm or more are fixed to the structure for maximum floor strength.

You will avoid difficulties by getting acquainted with a practical video on the topic under consideration:

We are sure that unjustified expenses and additional expenses for correcting errors are not included in the family budget!

6143 0

The aesthetics of the floor finish depends not only on the choice of tiles, but also on the quality of the preparation of the base for its installation. If the tiles are laid on a solid, properly primed, but uneven floor, then the result, at best, will not meet our expectations, at worst, the flooring will have to be redone, taking into account the mistakes made and unjustified additional costs.

Floor leveling for tiles includes 2 main types of leveling work:

1. Removing worn or uneven pavement.
2. Making a leveling screed.

Consider how to level the floor under the tiles correctly, so that the lining of the base prepared in this way is aesthetic and durable.

Removing an old floor or covering

Preparing the base for laying tiles with your own hands begins with inspecting the surface of the old floor and assessing its condition. Before leveling the concrete floor for tiles, you need to remove any decorative coating from it to the stone base, including old ceramics. A mark of the finishing level is made along the perimeter of the walls, to which the new floor tiling should go.

At the initial stage of repair, the old coating must be dismantled.

If the level of the subfloor after dismantling the old finish turned out to be 2-5 cm below the finishing mark, and the base is uneven, then this can be corrected in two ways:

• screed device with cement-sand mortar;
• coated with self-levelling compound.

If the level of the released subfloor is more than 5 cm lower than the dismantled coating, then it would be a rational decision to raise it by backfilling.

Consider how to level the floor under the tiles using backfill, as it includes the final procedure common to all situations for fine leveling an uneven base.

Raising the level of the subfloor

The rough stone floor is cleaned of debris and flaking concrete, moistened, and then, with the help of a trowel, cracks and potholes are rough sealed with a cement-sand mortar.

If the floor is being repaired in the bathroom, then a day later, waterproofing is arranged on top of the hardened solution by cross-laying two layers of dense technical cellophane. The overlap of the strips on each other and up on the walls of the bathroom is 15-20 cm in size, adjacent strips of cellophane along the overlaps are fastened together with adhesive tape. The level of the subfloor on top of the waterproofing can be raised in the following ways:

• backfilling of expanded clay or brick chips;
• laying self-leveling mortar.

On top of the laid cellophane, fine expanded clay is backfilled in such a way that 5-7 cm remain until the level mark of the new tile on the bathroom walls. Expanded clay is hygroscopic, that is, it accumulates moisture from environment. It will not add strength to the bathroom floor structure, but thanks to the waterproofing arranged from below, it will remain dry and will serve as a heat-insulating layer.

Ordinary expanded clay has an ideal particle size distribution

Expanded clay is leveled and rammed, after which two more layers of dense cellophane are laid on top using the same technology. The second layer of waterproofing will not allow expanded clay to absorb water from the leveling screed of the bathroom floor, which will be made on top of it.

Laying self-levelling mortar

Do not confuse self-levelling mortar with self-leveling floors. The first is used as a base and, depending on the type, can be laid with a thickness of 0.5 to 10-15 cm (fast-hardening self-leveling floor). And self-leveling floors are used as a decorative finishing layer no more than 0.5 cm thick. Therefore, when buying, it is important not to make a mistake and choose the solution that you need.

When using a fast-hardening self-leveling mortar, cellophane waterproofing can only be done under the mortar on the subfloor. After curing and drying, the mixture is primed and a day later it is covered with another type of self-leveling compound - “coarse”, a layer of which in 5-6 mm allows you to eliminate significant bumps and dents.

How reliable the floor will be depends on the preparation of the base for pouring a self-leveling mortar.

Performing a final leveling with a “rough” solution

Before leveling the floor under the tiles completely, calculate the need for "rough" material based on the size of the room and the consumption rate per unit area. On the floor raised with the help of a quick-hardening compound, beacons are constructed from screwed screws so that their height does not exceed 0.5 cm. an area of ​​approximately 1 square meter.

The composition is evenly distributed over the base, first with a regular and then with a spiked roller, which will remove air bubbles from the coating. The beacon screw heads protruding from the solution will indicate where it needs to be added. It will take one to two weeks for the coating to dry. Tiles are laid on the dried primed layer of the "rough" composition.

Cement-sand mortar screed device

The screed for laying tiles after raising the level of the subfloor is done in two stages:

• installation of a supporting cement-sand screed over waterproofing (as an option - covering expanded clay with chipboard - "dry screed");
• performing a leveling screed on the beacons on the floor or coating with a "rough" self-leveling mixture.

When hardening the screed for any purpose, the presence of drafts in the room is unacceptable.

Cement-sand mortar

The construction of the bearing screed

The load-bearing screed is made with a layer of 3-4 cm to create a rigid base on top of the waterproofing, on which beacons of a finishing surface under the tile will be placed strictly according to the level. A cement-sand mortar of coarse sand, prepared in a ratio of 1: 3, is applied to cellophane and, using a trowel, rail and bubble level, is leveled on the surface in the direction from the far wall to front door. A day later, the screed is moistened daily for a week without stepping on it.

A week later, when the solution gains approximately 70% strength, without waiting for the base to dry completely, several boards are placed on the floor so that you can walk, and they begin to build beacons.

Dry screed device

Carrier screed cement-sand mortar, if the work is not carried out in the bathroom, it can be replaced by laying chipboard sheets coated with two layers of liquid nitro-lacquer or drying oil, called a “dry screed”, on compacted expanded clay. The sheets are stacked end-to-end, rigidly fastened together with self-made overhead metal strips or plates using self-tapping screws. The seams between the chipboard are filled silicone sealant. A day after using silicone, you can begin to install beacons.

The device of beacons of the desired height can be ideally performed using a laser level or level. The device is installed in the middle of the room, aligned in a horizontal plane and, depending on its modification, horizontal and vertical axes or a point will be projected on the walls with rays, which, when the level is rotated, will move strictly horizontally.

Alignment of beacons by level

Along the perimeter of the walls, marks are made of the horizontal plane indicated by the rays, and they are transferred vertically down by the same value, below the mark of the new tile by 1-2 cm. or a trowel from a thick cement mortar line up rows of lighthouses.

In small areas, for example, in a bathroom, marking can be done using a transparent hose with water, the level of which is the same at its two ends and is easily transferred from one surface to another.

Lighthouses in rows after hardening are interconnected cement mortar and form guides, flush with the upper edge of which a leveling screed is made.

Device for finishing cement-sand screed

The finishing screed for tiles is made 2-3 cm thick from a cement-sand mortar made from coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 3. The consistency of the solution should be of medium density, that is, it should not spread or form lumps on the trowel.

The screed is performed from the far wall towards the front door. The solution is laid out and leveled with a trowel between the longitudinal beacons, carefully filling the space between them and leaving no air bubbles under the layer. Then a rail is drawn along the guides, which will show where the solution should be added, and remove its protruding excess.

Instead of a rail, you can use an even piece steel pipe with a diameter of 50-100 mm, which is rolled along two adjacent guides, evenly distributing, compacting the solution and squeezing out its excess forward.

Care of the screed during the hardening process

After two days, the screed is poured with water and covered with a plastic film to prevent the evaporation of moisture from it, which is necessary for the curing reaction to proceed. After another week, the film is removed and the surface is polished with a flat plane of red brick with their own hands, removing the convex defects of the base, after which the floor is swept and the screed is waiting for the screed to dry until it acquires a light gray color.

The dried screed is primed and, if there are shells on the surface, the floor is leveled in a day tile adhesive. If there are no sinks, you can start laying ceramic tiles.

Fulfilling Finishing work, every master should know how to level the floor for tiles. The quality of the rough surface largely depends appearance final lining, as well as its service life. Very often the question arises whether it is possible to level the floor with ordinary tile adhesive without loss of quality. To find answers, consider the principles of performing such work in more detail.

Laying tiles on an uneven floor entails wastage of materials and a decrease in quality

The need for floor leveling

Often, during repair work, tiles are laid on an uneven floor. On the one hand, this allows you to save money on building materials and reduce the repair time. But, on the other hand, with gross violations of technology, the consequences of laying tiles on an uneven surface will be sad:

• Height differences due to the skew of individual elements, inconsistencies at the seams, as well as gaps of different widths.
• The quality of adhesion of the tile to the surface is deteriorating, there is a risk of its delamination.
• The strength of the masonry is noticeably reduced, and the tile itself becomes more vulnerable to heavy loads and impacts.
• Increased consumption of glue.
• In general, the appearance deteriorates.

According to technology, before laying tiles, it is necessary to perfectly level the surface

The following mixtures are used to level the floor:

• dry screed;
• cement-sand (concrete);
• bulk self-leveling;
• tile adhesive.

Let's consider each technique in more detail.

Dry screed

This option requires a minimum of time, since after laying you can immediately start facing work. However, first remove the excess of the old building material and repair large cracks, if any. For additional protection against moisture and fungus, the floors are impregnated with an antiseptic and a primer.

To level the surface for laying tiles with a dry method, use sand and expanded clay chips as the main substrate. The thickness of the bulk layer is exactly what is required to remove all the protrusions on the surface. In order to compensate for the expansion of the mass, a damper tape is installed around the perimeter of the room. Further, dry materials are carefully compacted and leveled by the rule. Sheets of plywood or fiberboard are laid on top of this screed, so make sure that their thickness fits into the workspace in advance.

Dry floor screed technology

This method is especially relevant in private houses with wooden flooring, since it is simply impossible to lay tiles on an uneven floor without additional surface preparation. In addition, sand and expanded clay provide sound and heat insulation.

This is the most commonly used option. In the manufacture will need cement and sand. First, clean the surface to be treated and prime it thoroughly. If necessary, additionally equip waterproofing. Without this stage, for example, you can not do when laying tiles in the bathroom, as well as when equipping the underfloor heating system.

Concrete is poured after the primer has dried and treated with an antiseptic. To distribute in the corners, vibrate the mass and walk along the surface with the rule.

To level the concrete floor under the tile, the largest protrusion on the base is taken as the extreme point. It is this place that determines the required thickness of the mass of the screed under the tile.

If you are laying a water, cable or rod underfloor heating, install the system and check for serviceability before pouring. The layer thickness will increase slightly.

Concrete screed device

It will take at least three days to dry the coating. After the mass has hardened, you can start laying tiles, however, for best result You need to wait at least 1-2 weeks. If you put a tile on an insufficiently dried floor, the coating will shift and peel off over time.

Self leveling floor

More simple option is the leveling of the floor using bulk mixtures. They are used to eliminate small defects, the thickness of which does not exceed 5 mm, or as a finishing layer after a concrete screed.

You will need:

• beacons;
• needle roller;
• putty knife.

First, the draft floor is cleaned of dust and primed. After drying, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, and beacons are also installed at control points. The mixture is prepared on the basis of powder with cement and auxiliary additives. You should get a liquid plastic fill.

Floor leveling technology with self-levelling compound

To distribute the mass, a wide straight spatula is used. After the floor has been completely processed, the mixture is dispersed over the area with the help of a spiked roller and air bubbles are removed from it. On average, the thickness of such a self-leveling floor is only a few millimeters. Alternatively, for small curvature, tile adhesive is used.

Alignment during installation

If the curvature of the surface under the cladding is not too significant and its amplitude does not exceed 5 mm, the technology allows for the absence of a screed. In this case, the floor is leveled with tile adhesive during installation work. Surface preparation consists only in priming and impregnating with an antiseptic.

If the floor differences are less than 5 mm, leveling is carried out with glue during the installation of the coating

The thickness of the solution is determined in accordance with the size of the tile. The smaller the tile, the thinner the layer. The solution is applied to the floor surface, but if it is necessary to correct defects, it is better to additionally lubricate the tile itself. The evenness of the coating is checked by a level, and adjustments are made by tamping the material with a mallet.

Since laying tiles on an uneven floor is not recommended, level with an adhesive screed. Before laying, coat the coating with a solution diluted to a more liquid consistency. The same method is used to eliminate minor defects. The thickness of such a screed is small.

Please note that the concrete floor is leveled with glue only when working with ceramic tiles. For PVC coating a surface brought to almost perfection is required. Since such tiles are laid on the thinnest layer of polymer adhesive, a preliminary screed is an obligatory stage of work.

With proper surface preparation, the coating will serve you for a very long time. The tile will lie flat and will not peel off under load. In addition, this way you simplify your work and reduce the time for fitting the lining parts.

Laying tiles requires a perfectly flat surface. Even the smallest irregularities and defects in the floor will negatively affect the quality floor covering from tiles, namely: differences and gaps between individual tiles will be noticeable, the quality of adhesion to the surface will deteriorate and the tile will be able to peel off, the tile will lose its strength, become vulnerable to impacts and various loads, the service life of the tiled masonry as a whole will noticeably decrease. In some cases, it may be necessary to dismantle the coating and remake the screed, which will entail a serious waste of time and money.

Before you start leveling the floor under the tiles with your own hands, you need to carry out a number of activities:

Alignment methods

Leveling the floor under the tiles can be done in several ways:

• With a dry screed;
• Cement-sand (concrete) screed;
• With the help of a ready-made self-leveling mixture;
• With tile adhesive.

Dry screed method

An inexpensive method that requires a minimum amount of time to level the floor under the tiles. In addition, this method will achieve additional noise and heat insulation. After the screed is laid, you can immediately start facing work.

The surface of the plate is covered with waterproofing and an antiseptic solution that prevents the formation of fungus and mold. As a waterproofing material, you can use a polyethylene film 50 microns thick, which is laid in one layer with an allowance of 12-15 cm along the walls, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room. The joints of the film strips are overlapped by about 20 cm and glued together with adhesive tape.

Dry screed method

The material for a dry screed is quartz sand, fine-grained expanded clay or expanded polystyrene. The bulk layer should have such a thickness, which will be necessary in order to hide all the unevenness of the floor surface. After that, the bulk material is carefully compacted using a manual or electric tool, and leveled with a rule. Further, the dry screed floor layer is covered with a substrate of fiberboard, chipboard, moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets or plywood. The joints between the sheets are tightened with self-tapping screws in steps of 15-20 cm and glued with PVA glue. After all the sheets are fastened together, a single durable surface on which tiles can be laid.

This method is well suited for use in living rooms, as well as private houses with wooden flooring.

Cement-sand screed

A common way is concrete screed, which can be used to level floors in both residential and non-residential premises. This budget way, with which you can level the differences in the floor up to 10 cm, repair holes and potholes. But such a screed dries out for a long time - up to six weeks, ahead of time drying lining is impossible.

Before starting leveling, the surface is covered with waterproofing. This may be a thick polyethylene film, as in the method described above.

Cement-sand screed gender

You can buy ready-made, or you can prepare your “own” leveling solution: for this, you need to mix half of the water with cement and sand in their ratio of 1 to 3. Before pouring the solution, it is necessary to install beacons from profiles with an interval of 80-90 cm from each other, from the wall - 30 cm. After that, the gaps between the beacons are filled with small portions of the cement-sand mortar, which is leveled by the rule. Alignment can also be done with a wide spatula in the direction from the far corner of the room to the entrance. It is recommended to cover the finished screed with a layer of polyethylene film to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture from its surface, which should be moistened periodically. As the screed dries, the beacons are removed from it, and the voids are filled with mortar and overwritten.

If the “warm floors” system is laid under the concrete screed, it is imperative to check its performance before pouring. The thickness of the leveling layer in this case may increase.

Self-leveling compounds

The most expensive leveling method for tiles is using ready-made self-leveling mixtures from a special polymer composition. Their cost is justified by fast hardening, easy distribution on the surface, perfect adhesion to the concrete slab. Surface cladding can be done already 10-12 hours after filling with the mixture. Unlike the previous types of alignment, this method requires ventilation of the room, because. does not tolerate high humidity.

Such mixtures are divided into three types:

• Repair mixes to eliminate significant defects - large cracks, pits, parts of bare reinforcement. They give the surface greater strength and have good adhesion.
• Compositions for rough screed (starting) - applied up to 2 cm thick to get rid of minor surface defects (slopes, sags, depressions).
• Finishing coatings - do not differ in high strength, are applied to the surface in a thin layer to ensure a perfectly flat, smooth surface.

Self-levelling floor compounds

For calculation required amount self-leveling mixture, it must be borne in mind that one bag (20-25 kg) is required per 1 sq.m of area to fill a layer with a thickness of 1cm.

After cleaning and priming the rough concrete floor, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, and beacons are also installed, but this is not necessary. The properties of self-leveling compounds allow them to spread themselves.

Uniform distribution of the mixture is carried out using a wide spatula. The mixture sets within 20 minutes, so it should be leveled during this time and it is not recommended to fill the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room with it at once. Each subsequent strip should be poured before the previous one hardens, starting from the far corner of the room. Then, after complete processing of the floor surface, with a spiked roller, with a tooth length of at least 30 mm, the mixture is rolled over the entire area of ​​​​the room, air bubbles are removed from it.

When working with this type of material, the manufacturer's instructions must be followed exactly.

Glue leveling

If the irregularities and defects of the floor surface are minor and are less than 5 cm, leveling can be done without pouring the screed, but with the help of an adhesive solution during installation tiles. The surface is prepared by priming and impregnating with an antiseptic.

The thickness of the adhesive layer depends on the size of the tile - the smaller it is, the thinner it is. The glue is applied to the floor surface, as well as to the tile itself, then the evenness is determined using a level, and corrected by tapping the tile with a mallet. Tile adhesive screed is prepared by diluting the adhesive to a more liquid state and coated concrete slab thin layer before installation. It should be remembered that this method is used only in the presence of small defects and minor irregularities.

Any overhaul begins with leveling the floor and walls, because in Russian apartments, especially in the secondary real estate market, uneven surfaces are, unfortunately, a common occurrence. It is especially important to prepare the perfect floor before laying tiles: tile or porcelain stoneware - in bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. Often, for this it is necessary to completely dismantle the old coating and screed.

Most cheap way to make the floor even - this is to re-create a concrete screed. The building mixture can be prepared independently from sand, cement and water. Additives like expanded clay or lime glass increase the strength of the structure. In addition, there are ready-made dry mixes for various purposes on sale, which are enough to dilute with water in the right proportions and immediately start laying. Concrete screed indispensable if you need to level the surface with a large slope, pits and swellings.

However, it takes from one to three weeks for the concrete coating to dry completely. In addition, when choosing this method of floor screed, you will have to take care of waterproofing and subsequent surface grinding.

Modern developments allow you to reduce the drying time of the coating to three or four days, as well as save you from unnecessary trouble and additional time spent on finishing the floor. This opportunity is provided self-levelling compounds. This is a special polymer composition that is easily distributed over the surface, quickly hardens on it and provides perfect adhesion to the monolith.

Blends fall into three categories:

• compositions for rough processing, which are applied in a layer of up to 2 cm to get rid of coating defects, slope and "waves" on the floor;
• top coats that are not very durable and therefore applied in a thin layer for the best effect - a perfectly even and smooth surface;
• special mixtures to eliminate significant flaws: large cracks, bare reinforcement. Such compounds give great strength and high adhesion.

Self-levelling compounds are sold in packages of 20 and 25 kg. To lift 1 m² per centimeter, you need one such bag. Thus, you can roughly calculate how much material you will need to carry out repairs. More detailed information is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, so do not be too lazy to study it before starting the repair.

For construction and repair work, you will need a level, a container for preparing a leveling mixture, a drill with a nozzle and the ability to set low speeds, measuring bowls or household scales, suitable spatulas ( the best way wide spatulas 30 cm with a long handle are suitable), metal mesh for reinforcement, dry mix in the right amount.

It will not be superfluous to purchase a spiked roller: it will allow you to get rid of air bubbles that reduce the strength of the future structure. Also, special needle soles will not interfere, which will allow you to move around the room without carrying construction debris.

Preparatory work for leveling the floor

First you need to prepare the room for repair: take out the furniture, dismantle the plumbing. You should also ventilate the room in advance, because in the process construction works you will not have such an opportunity: when leveling the floor, in no case should drafts, high humidity and temperature drops below + 5 degrees be allowed. After airing, close the windows and hang a damp sheet on the door to prevent dust from spreading throughout the apartment.

To ensure that the new floor covering is as durable and reliable as possible, It's important to take the time to clean up. Carefully remove everything that may interfere with the floor screed: dust, debris, remnants of the previous coating, paint and oil stains. By neglecting this step, you run the risk of making the new floor as uneven as the old one. Vacuum properly and pay special attention to the corners of the room.

If there are chips, cracks, voids, potholes or other defects in the monolithic base, they must be puttied before starting work, and then the excess of dried putty should be removed with sandpaper.

You can easily find a suitable putty at any hardware store. Ideally, it is desirable to prepare and apply a primer mix, also referred to as a "primer". It acts as a base and impregnation, and also improves adhesion to the leveling compound. Due to the special composition of the primer, the leveling solution will dry faster and more evenly. Spread it evenly with a wide spatula and let dry. Prevent the formation of puddles by spreading the thick mass on the floor in a timely manner.

After the room has been cleaned and the flaws carefully covered up, you can start measuring. It is best to use a laser level: this device projects a height mark around the entire perimeter of the room, so you do not have to do long calculations and crawl on the floor with a tape measure. It is enough to install the device at the highest point in the room, and then screw the self-tapping screws into the floor at the desired height in increments of 20-30 cm and tie an ordinary rope between them to always see the zero mark.

In the absence of a laser level, a less technologically advanced water level is also suitable, but in this case it is advisable to purchase a long meter, at least 1 meter.

If you want to make the floor stronger, do not forget to lay metal mesh. It is placed overlapping on the floor, and the pieces are interconnected by wire. The mesh is needed when it is required to raise the level by more than 2 cm. It enhances the adhesion between the monolith and the future floor covering. To correct minor defects, you can do without it.

When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly. Prepare the self-levelling compound according to package directions. For best results, carefully follow the proportions indicated by the manufacturer. Too liquid mixture will take longer to dry and will not provide the desired strength. If, on the contrary, there is less water than necessary, all the work of leveling the floor under the tiles will go down the drain: the mixture will fall in lumps, and the surface will have to be leveled again.

To mix the composition well, use a mixer nozzle and a drill at low speed or a concrete mixer, if you have such an opportunity. It is undesirable to cook the entire mixture at once, as it hardens rather quickly. It is better to mix in small portions - for one or two rows.

The resulting mixture must be spread over the floor, starting from the far wall in parallel and gradually moving towards the door. Smooth the solution with a spatula, and then roll with a spiked roller to prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the composition.

Please note that the mixture begins to set within 10-20 minutes after pouring, so be quick and do not be distracted from work. It is also advisable not to cover the entire room with the solution at once, but to distribute it gradually in order to better smooth and form a flat floor. Of course, you can work in pairs or hire a team of specialists who will do everything you need much faster.

If you are working on your own, try to pour in the new strip before the previous one dries, so that the surface is even and seamless. You can also try pouring the leveling agent in indented strips. As the mixture spreads, the gaps will be filled with excess, and there will be no seams on the floor.

The composition must be applied in a layer of 5 to 20 mm, so that the resulting surface is strong enough and dries quickly. If you use a thinner layer, the floor will be fragile and unreliable, and large volumes of mortar will stretch the repair indefinitely, as the composition will harden too long and unevenly. In the process, do not forget to check the level so as not to deviate from the zero mark.

After application, the mixture will harden within a day and dry completely in 3-4 days, provided that you have not violated temperature regime in room. More detailed information about the properties of the composition is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. When the self-levelling compound dries, you can begin to decorate the floor with tiles.