How to lay the last floorboard. Laying the floorboard on logs and glue

There are dozens of methods and types of materials at the disposal of owners who want to install a new or replace an old floor covering. Each of them has priority qualities and disadvantages. Despite the tangible technological and technical advantages Progressive flooring schemes for many owners are attracted by the laying of floorboards, as a practical, environmentally friendly, durable material.

Wood created by nature is a rather "capricious" material, but it is it that helps to optimize the microclimate in housing. A number of difficulties are caused by its installation, however, subject to the technological rules, the floors equipped with the help serve faithfully and do not cause complaints.

Warm floors made of natural varieties of wood do not clog the composition of the air with toxic volatile components and even ionize it. Wood retains heat, maintains a level of moisture favorable for people, does not transmit sound negative

Substrate types suitable for laying floorboards

The plank floor can be installed over any type of floor and over support posts with lags. The following can be used as a base for installing a floorboard:

concrete floors with a leveling polymer or concrete screed;
logs installed on top of any floor with or without a leveling layer or laid on brick supports;
moisture resistant plywood;
old wooden floor or rough roll from 2-3 grade sawn timber.

Installation of a wooden floor most often completes the entire range of works on the arrangement; it is carried out only in a room equipped with windows and door structures. The floorboard reacts sharply to excess moisture - its laying is not permissible if the moisture level of the finished walls and the leveling screed is more than 12%. Wood will also deform if the moisture content of the air mass in the room being trimmed is more than 60%, the boards will shrink and crack when the moisture content is less than 40%.

Plank floor structure laid on concrete slab overlap

Advice. The lumber for the floor must be unpacked three days before the boards are attached. Boards can be installed without nailing them to the rough surface, or simply left indoors to "get used" to the surrounding atmosphere.

Plank flooring on logs

The most common scheme for constructing flooring with planks. Lags (wooden blocks with a rectangular cross-section) can be attached to the rough base using glue mastics or self-tapping screws. Lay them perpendicular to the direction of the floorboard.

After installation, the system built from a bar is leveled, shaving off the excess and placing chips under the lowered sections. It is possible to lay the logs in an innovative, high-speed manner using a bar equipped with height adjustment devices.

Plank flooring on logs

Sub-base made of moisture-resistant plywood

Plywood with hydrophobic impregnation can be laid on any type of sub-base, including joists, if additional reinforcement of the multi-layer floor structure is required. The standard installation of the floorboard on top of the plywood precedes the leveling of the rough base.

Plywood sheets, cut into longitudinal segments, are installed in a diagonal direction with respect to the laying of the board. Fastening is done with dowels or screws. Technological seams are left between the plywood sheets and around the perimeter of the room being equipped.

Plywood board mounting scheme: 1. rough base; 2. insulating substrate; 3. moisture resistant plywood; 4.flooring - boards

Note. Plywood can simply be glued to the screed, to the prepared for installation, leveled cement or wooden floor... Those who prefer adhesive technology must definitely select a binder that is compatible with the type of rough base and with insulating materials.

After completing the work on laying plywood sheets, its surface is sanded, then dust and dirt formed during sanding are completely removed. Before installing the boards, soil is applied, after which the floorboard is fastened. Then again sanding, varnishing, paint or oil.

Mounting the board over the existing floor

Before laying, check the reliability of fastening the elements of the old flooring, duplicate unreliable fasteners, if necessary, dismantle worn-out boards, instead of which inexpensive pine lumber can be laid.

Important. When installing boards on top of an old plank floor, they must be laid perpendicular to the direction of the worn coating.

Installation of floorboards with glue

Finishers strongly recommend dismantling old boards and making a screed. However, if the reliability of the base is not in doubt, you can do without it, but with preliminary grinding. There is another way: mounting plywood sheets on old boards.

Insulation and waterproofing of such a floor

The floor in the premises of the first floors must be insulated unconditionally. It is possible to refuse measures only if there is a heated basement. As a heat-insulating material, vapor-permeable heaters are preferred: fiberglass, basalt wool. The heat-insulating material is placed between the beams-lags, covered with a layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing.

Important. Between the lower plane of the plank floor with logs and the surface of the layer, arranged for the purpose of waterproofing and insulation, it is required to set aside a ventilation gap with a height of 2-4 cm.

Insulation of the floor of the first floors must be done

It is desirable to protect the multi-layer structure of the floor with a covering of boards from moisture coming from the basement or found in the materials of the floors. To do this, use a waterproofing membrane with a high vapor throughput(not less than 800 g / m 2). Free circulation of vapors will protect the wood from rot. Therefore, for the construction of floors made of natural organic matter, a plastic film that does not allow steam to pass through is not recommended.

Sometimes you don't need to completely remodel your old wood floor; you just need to renovate it and save money. You will learn more about how to properly seal the cracks in the floor in the material:.

What is the best wood to use?

The most durable wood for flooring is Siberian larch and oak. They steadfastly hold the line in front of all adversity that has befallen their surface. Planks made of softer aspen or alder are placed in rooms with a slight load: in children's rooms, in rest rooms. Lumber from pine, fir, spruce is rarely used for flooring. Most often they are used for the construction of a roll, a rough base for the finishing material.

The geometric parameters of lumber are selected taking into account the personal preferences of the future owners. Focusing on the strength criteria, a board with a thickness of 40 mm is often preferred. However, it should be remembered that when buying thick, rather expensive boards, you should not save money by cutting costs by purchasing raw material. Not passed chamber drying thick floorboard can lead so that self-tapping screws will "fly out".

Sawn timber of the 2nd grade - boards with knots and a bright structural pattern

The choice of a certain type of lumber depends on the purpose of the premises, the goals of the owners and the proposed methods of subsequent finishing. Products are distinguished by a smooth surface with a beautiful structural pattern. top grade, which after installation, it is enough to open it with varnish. There are lovers of the natural beauty of wood with a pattern of knots, they will like grade 1 or 2. It makes no sense to buy material above the 3rd grade for painting.

It is preferable to lay the floorboard from grooved material - boards with groove-ridge devices for tight joining and with ventilation longitudinal vents

Non-grooved material is now rarely used. Boards with straight edges, connected end-to-end, after a short period of operational time, will disappoint the owners with the curvature of the surface and cracks.

Grooved boards installation technology

Successful styling direction boardwalk in living quarters, an orientation is considered parallel to the flow of light from the windows. In corridors and vestibules, the boards are directed along the movement vector. Boards can be stacked without displacement of elements or staggered.

Stacking board layout

For the installation of a floorboard with a breakdown, it is necessary to perfectly trim the elements. It is difficult to maintain a perfect right angle without experience. It is imperative for the sufferers to arrange the floor in this way, it is advisable to stock up on a template to indicate the sawing line. A technological indent must be maintained along the perimeter of the room. Leave a distance of 1-2 cm between the flooring and the walls to ensure longitudinal movements. Upon completion of the installation, the expansion joints are closed with a plinth.

So the order of work:

The first tongue-and-groove board is laid against the wall with a thorn (this is a fastening ledge), so it is more convenient and reliable to rally the elements.
The second board is connected to the first, combining the groove and the spike. It is not advisable to fasten the boards with nails. Their hats can subsequently "come out", and the nails themselves can rust. It is better to fix the boards with self-tapping screws (60 or 70 mm), the optimal diameter is 4-4.5 mm.
Fastening the boards can be done in two ways. The first method is with an inclination of the self-tapping screws by 45º, the second without a slope from the top, followed by sealing the caps with a sealant. The second option is safer, but the first is more aesthetic.
Along the perimeter, all floor elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, on top of which a plinth will be installed.

The final stage of board installation is preparation for coating, even boards can be sanded with 180 grit sandpaper. If necessary, that is, if there are significant irregularities, sanding is performed.

More information about the device of a floor made of grooved boards is described in the following article:. Read about building material choices, foundation preparation, installation and repair of tongue-and-groove floors.

In the process of fitting, a hammer is used, but the blows are made not on the second board, but on an additional intermediate element with a spike

Laying boards with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 degrees. It is necessary to seal the caps of the self-tapping screws with a sealant

In custody

Labor-intensive plank flooring activities are often ordered from organizations that offer the services of experienced plumbers. However, you can lay the covering yourself. Patience, meeting technological requirements will help to lay the plank floor beautifully and firmly and save a significant amount.

If you notice that it is time to replace the floors in your apartment, then, undoubtedly, the choice should be made in favor of a floor made of planks. Environmentally friendly material and warmth of such a floor will more than pay off all financial expenses. The material, of course, must be expensive, of high quality and without any defects. But there is still a way to save money - this is laying the floorboards with your own hands.

Thus, you will be able to save an impressive amount of money, professionals estimate the provision of their services very expensive. But before embarking on such a complex and time-consuming work, it is necessary to thoroughly and carefully study the information, to find out everything about laying the floor from the boards.

The floor of the boards normalizes the microclimate of the home. Provides tremendous benefits, such as maintaining a comfortable moisture level, excellent sound insulation and excellent appearance, keeps you warm.

Planks can be laid on the following surfaces:

concrete floor;
lags;
plywood;
old wooden floor.

Remember one of the main rules: observe the correct level of humidity in the apartment. If this is ignored, then in the future the wood may deform, the boards may dry out or crack.

Materials must be kept indoors for at least 3 days prior to installation in order to fully adapt to the surrounding atmosphere.

What may be required for work

Logs (wooden blocks) are the most common way of laying the floor.

Required tools:

maximum length level;
ruler 2-3 m long;
chisel;
screwdriver;
hammer;
hacksaw;
a circular saw;
plane;
nail puller;
pencil.

Materials:

boards;
skirting boards;
slats;
primer;
varnish, paint.

The first step - the logs are fixed to the main coating using self-tapping screws. The second step - after the installation is completed, it is necessary to plan the system and give it smoothness. You need to strive for a perfectly flat surface.

The third stage of this multi-level structure is the laying of plywood, which needs to be cut into longitudinal sheets. These segments are laid strictly diagonally.

The fourth step is to securely fasten the plywood with screws. Remember to leave seams between the sheets.

Fifth step - this surface needs to be carefully sanded.

The sixth step is to remove dirt and dust from the subfloor after the sanding process.

The seventh step is applying the primer to the surface.

The eighth step is to go directly to laying the board. Boards are securely attached and sanded. Then comes the processing with paint and varnish.

This is how the floors are laid from the board with their own hands. This work will require a lot of patience and attention. Everything must be done accurately, accurately and reliably. Unless, of course, you want to do it all over again after a few years.

How do I lay plank floors on top of an existing floor?

First of all, take a critical and picky look at the old floor. If you notice an unreliable and badly worn board, be sure to replace it.
When installing a floor with such a base, the boards are laid perpendicular to the old floor.
Experts do not recommend such a basis, but if you are convinced that the floor is reliable, strong and durable, then feel free to take action.

How to properly insulate and insulate such floors? These steps are necessary, but they are very simple and not difficult even for a beginner.

For insulation, you need basalt wool. It should be laid between the logs, and covered with a vapor-tight waterproofing on top. If you want to protect the wood from the nuisance of rotting, then you need a waterproofing membrane with a high flow rate. Compliance with these simple and elementary conditions will allow you to enjoy a good floor for a long time and keep its original appearance.

Installation of grooved boards

The laying of boards that lies parallel to the sunlight will be successful. Remember that it will be very difficult for a beginner to make such floors. This requires experience and skill, but if you still decide, then get a special template with which you will cut the material.

It is imperative to leave a gap between the floor covering and the walls.
Upon completion of installation, all this will be covered with a plinth.
It all starts with the first board, which must be laid with a fixing protrusion to the wall.
It is followed by the second. You align the tenon and the groove. Such boards are fixed with self-tapping screws.
The boards are fastened with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter of the room.
Next comes sanding and painting or varnishing.

How to lay parquet correctly

The parquet floor looks expensive and luxurious. It is a noble, durable and reliable floor. This is very complex construction it takes a lot of work to achieve the perfect look. The most reliable method is to lay parquet tiles on moisture resistant plywood.

In order to significantly facilitate the task of installation, the parquet has a system of locking the planks. That is why everyone can cope with this. The work will not cause serious difficulties. By purchasing this material, you will receive installation instructions. But there is too general information... Therefore, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with additional information and tips for finishing such a floor.

First of all, the base is finished for parquet. A special screed is made on the floor, which forms a perfectly flat floor surface. There are two types of screed: wet and dry. This will not affect the quality of the parquet in any way.

Remember that the work must be carried out cleanly. It is necessary to clean the room as soon as the floor gets dirty.

A waterproofing film is placed on the screed. You can use either a special film or a regular plastic one.

A layer of thermal insulation is laid on the film. The roll of material is unrolled along the floor end-to-end against the wall. No gaps or seams.

The work on the preparation of the base is completed, you can proceed to the most interesting stage - laying the parquet. Laying goes from a long wall, the first board is placed in its corner. Special wedges are inserted between all the walls and the parquet to be laid to provide the required gap of 1.5 cm. This will help to avoid deformation in the future.

The floors are quick and easy to assemble. The last rows usually need to be trimmed. While doing this, do not forget about the need for a gap between the floor and the wall.

If your parquet is decorated with an ornament, the task becomes more complicated, it becomes necessary to select a pattern. Accordingly, the consumption of material also increases. For styling, professionals use a rubber mallet. Gently tap the tile with a hammer so that it settles down correctly in the required position.

All rows are laid in the same way until the floor surface is completely covered.

Do not forget about the need for gaps around the edges.

After all the work is done, carefully remove all the wedges and cut off the layer of waterproofing and film that has appeared on the surface.

In order to complete the work, you need to nail down the skirting boards. Do-it-yourself parquet flooring is ready for use.

The transportation of the material must be very careful and careful, make sure that moisture does not get on the tree.
For mounting the board, special wood screws are used.
Before laying, the boards are treated with an antiseptic and an anti-fire composition.
The gap between the walls and the boards is at least 0.5 cm. This will reduce the noise level.
After laying, the floor requires careful sanding, then a primer is applied and the surface is sanded again.
Varnishes are applied in three layers, but do not forget that before applying the next layer, the previous one must dry completely.
For the coating, special paints and varnishes are used with increased resistance to abrasion and loss of their original appearance and properties.
Floorboards need to be purchased only the most expensive and high-quality ones, otherwise everything will become unusable after a few years. Floor renovation, as a rule, is undertaken infrequently, so it makes sense to incur financial losses.
If the parquet is laid parallel to the window, the seams will be almost invisible.
When laying the board, you must use glue.

Plank floors look simply gorgeous. Wood is the highest quality, harmless and noble material. Whichever floor you choose will be exceptional. In the modern world, all materials for the implementation of such an undertaking are sold in a huge assortment and variety.

But the main function of the floor is, of course, not attracting admiring glances, but reliability, the floor must last for many years and at the same time retain all its positive properties. Therefore, choose this product very carefully, the board should be free of defects and defects, perfectly flat and smooth. Then the floors will do their job.

Any construction or overhaul in the room provide for the arrangement of the floor. Despite the wide range of products that can be used for this, in most cases (for residential buildings), owners prefer wood as a "finishing" coating. About her positive qualities, and first of all, environmental friendliness, a lot has been written.

The main type of products intended for flooring has been and remains a board. It is much easier to work with it, so you can carry out all the activities (with some skill and adherence to the installation rules) yourself. This allows you to significantly save money, since you do not have to pay hired specialists.

Laying the board with your own hands, in our opinion, has another significant "plus", which many do not take into account. Let's look at this problem from the point of view of further exploitation. Wood gradually "gets rid" of moisture (and it is present in any wooden blank, even the most dried), or as they say in such cases, the material "shrinks". Changing the geometry of the boards leads to the formation of cracks, a creak appears, the floorboards begin to "rise". All possible surprises can be enumerated for a long time.

But the caveat is that the process of "shrinkage" can sometimes take quite a long time. It depends on local conditions (temperature and humidity in the room, ventilation, specific surface treatment of floors and a number of other points), as well as on the specifics of operation (for example, the degree of load). By the way, a possible defect in some workpiece, which was invisible during installation, can also appear after a while. Unfortunately, no one is immune from this.

Consequently, there is no guarantee that in six months or a year the board will not "lead". To whom then to present claims and how to legally justify them competently? Most likely, you will have to invite a specialist again (of course, already a different, "more literate" one), which means that you will have to pay again.

But if the owner did everything himself, from beginning to end, with knowledge of the matter, then he will determine and eliminate the cause of any arising "malfunction" rather quickly, without outside help, at any suitable time for this. We dwelled on this issue in such detail so that all the “pitfalls” that accompany the work on laying floorboards became “clear”. Therefore, the strict implementation of all recommendations is mandatory. You should not neglect the performance of this or that, at first glance, even an insignificant operation.

There are several basic techniques for mounting boards, one of which we will consider. But first, let's note on what surface they can be laid (what kind of "base" needs to be prepared):

"Rough floor";
concrete, cement, self-leveling screed ();
plywood, chipboard sheets or other flat base.

Regardless of which method is chosen, the suitability of the "base" must be determined. This is especially important if the boards are supposed to be laid on a screed or concrete (reinforced concrete slabs, "filling"). The point, again, is especially for wood to absorb moisture. It is necessary to determine if the "base" is dry enough. After all, the evaporation of liquids occurs in the direction from bottom to top. Therefore, it is impossible to lay boards on a damp base.

We check with a film

Part of the surface is covered with polyethylene, and its edges along the perimeter are glued to the base (for example, with tape). The task is to completely seal this area. If the screed (or concrete) is not dry enough, then after about 12 - 24 hours (depending on the room temperature) on inside droplets of moisture will appear on the film.

Piece of rubber

The principle is the same. Such a "rug" lies on the floor, and on top - some kind of load. If after a specified time a stain forms in this place, then the base is still damp.

What to consider when laying the board

Regardless of how the board will be installed, some additional activities need to be carried out. Their appropriateness is determined by local conditions. We will simply list them.

Preparation of the base

After the boards have been laid, it will not be available. Therefore, it is worth worrying about its integrity in advance. This is especially important for apartments located in multi-storey buildings. You need to understand that any gap, unsealed joint is a "path" along which heat leaves the room and sounds penetrate. Therefore, the base must not only be cleaned of debris, but also washed (if it is concrete). Then all its defects will be visible. By the way, many for some reason neglect this, absolutely not thinking about the importance of this stage.

Hydro and vapor barrier

There is no point in talking about the need for this. First, the wood must breathe. Second, the risk of even an accidental underlying floor is minimized. By the way, such a small "nuisance" often entails large financial losses in the form of monetary compensation for material damage caused.

Warming

For owners of private housing, this allows you to significantly save on heating, and for residents of the first floors - to avoid drafts and cold floors.

When choosing one or another method of arranging a covering from boards, all these factors must be taken into account. Let's take a look at the most common and easy-to-do method.

Laying boards using logs

This method has, perhaps, the only drawback, although it is relative - a decrease in the height of the room (the thickness of the boards and the log). But there are more than enough advantages, especially since such a technique is much simpler. The thickness of the logs are selected taking into account preliminary finishing and material for insulation. It is advisable to use solid bars rather than "composite" ones.

Installation features

in advance, all wood must be dried and (fire retardants and antiseptics);
the interval between the lags is determined by the thickness of the board. The thinner it is, the more often supports are placed. In addition, the specificity of the premises and the "load" of the floors are taken into account. For example, the presence (or absence) of heavy furniture and the like;
it is necessary to take into account that the boards are laid perpendicular to the lags. And how to lay them depends on several factors: the location of the door, windows, room illumination;
lag fastening is carried out depending on the base - screws (with dowels), nails, landing on mortar or mastic. The main thing is that all their upper surfaces are located in one, strictly horizontal plane. This is easy to check with a level (building) and a long strip that is applied from above in different directions. Any misalignment can be determined this way. To eliminate it, you can, for example, tap wedges or use another alignment method;
fixing the boards is done with self-tapping screws. This is much better than nails, as you may need to change one of them later. Such fasteners are simply unscrewed;
if laying is done on an old board, then it is made perpendicular. While maintaining the direction of location of the floorboards on the "rough" floor, plywood should be filled;
tight fit of the boards to each other is done using a stop from a piece of board or bar.

The final stage is sanding the coating and installing skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. After that, further cladding is carried out (linoleum flooring, application of paints and varnishes).

Other techniques involve carefully leveling the base. This is a rather complicated and painstaking work that has many nuances. In addition, all activities are carried out in different ways, depending on the material of the "base" and the financial capabilities of the homeowners.

Do not start laying the boards immediately after purchasing them. Experts recommend bringing them into the room and leaving them there for a couple of days. The material must "get used" to the microclimate that is established in the given room. If the arrangement of the floors is carried out in a "new building", then such work begins after the installation of windows and doors.
When laying on logs, it is advisable to use a beam equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height. This will greatly facilitate the process of leveling the surface.

When replacing an old floor covering or when arranging a new floor, the floorboard is the best option, which is practical, affordable and safe to use. Despite the popularity of the floorboard, the installation process for many seems rather complicated. Therefore, we will consider the features of laying the floorboard further.

Manufacturing technology and advantages of floorboards

The floorboard is distinguished by its high operational and technical properties. Based on its attractiveness, it is on a par with more expensive laminate and parquet flooring. In the manufacture of floorboards, the wood is thoroughly dried to a certain point of moisture content in it. Therefore, this material has a long service life.

One of the indisputable advantages of a floorboard is its affordable cost, which makes it so popular. In addition, it has a high thermal insulation capacity and provides good sound insulation.

The floorboard fits perfectly into any type of interior, does not change shape during operation and has an attractive appearance.

The main components of this material are:

thorns;
grooves;
grooved ventilation ducts.

Larch is the most optimal type of wood suitable for the manufacture of floorboards. Due to its strength, durability, it has good performance characteristics.

If we compare the installation of the laminate with the installation parquet boards, then the second - requires less time for styling. At the same time, it is environmentally friendly and harmless, since no foreign impurities are added to it during the manufacturing process.

The floorboard looks like a massive product, which is made from solid trees. If the length and width of the products are compact, then the laying process is quick and easy, since special grooves have been developed in it, which ensure the connection of the boards. The procedure for installing a floorboard on large areas does not take more than two days.

The main indicator of the quality of the floorboard is the material from which it was built. But, almost all types of floorboards have the following advantages:

1. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity and sound conductivity allows you to keep warm for a long period of time and provides comfort for people living in the house.

2. Subject to all the processes of drying wood and the technology of its harvesting, the floorboard has a high coefficient of strength, the duration of its use is twenty years or more.

3. Characterized by the absence of chemicals, harmful components and other impurities, it is excellent for furnishing the home of people with allergies.

4. If we compare the cost of a floorboard with similar materials, then its price is much lower and more affordable.

5. If the wood covering is present in the room, then a healthy microclimate is provided for it, since the tree is able to accumulate moisture in case of its excess in the air, and to give it back in case of lack.

6. Does not require lengthy preparation for installation. Quickly installs and removes. The work requires a standard set of tools.

7. It is unpretentious in care, it is well washed and cleaned.

There are several categories according to which the quality of the floorboard is distinguished:

A-class;
B-class;
C-class;
Extra class.

They differ in the quality of the wood used in the production process, in the number of knots, notches, cracks, chips, and also in price. Top-class flooring has the lowest cost.

After the work has been done to cut down the tree, it goes into the drying chambers for storage and drying. When the finished products have already been dried, the process of sorting them into classes takes place. Sorting depends on the number of defects that the tree acquires during preliminary processes.

Before installing the floorboard, it is necessary to build a sub-floor base. The main requirements for it are high strength in order to avoid material deformation.

When buying a floorboard, choose options that are made of larch, as they have the highest strength and are practically not inferior to a floor made of solid oak.

Varieties of bases for laying floorboards

Arrangement of a plank floor is arranged over any type of floor or support pillars. There are such types of bases that are suitable for laying floorboards:

concrete pavement pre-leveled with polymer or concrete screeds;
a surface made of logs installed on brick supports or any type of coating;
surface made of moisture-resistant plywood;
old wood flooring;
sub-floor made of unnecessary lumber.

The installation of the floorboard is most often the final stage in the arrangement of the room. Before this process, they usually perform the replacement of windows, doors, wall and ceiling decoration. When installing the floorboard, keep in mind that it is very unstable in front of high humidity. Before installing it, measure the moisture content of the subfloor, which should not exceed twelve percent.

At the same time, the air humidity in the room should not be more than sixty percent, and if the humidity is less than forty percent, the boards will dry out and crack.

Considering the construction of a floorboard laid on a concrete base, it should be noted that:

hollow floor slab;
technoflora;
waterproofing;
screed made of cement-sand mortar;
directly to the floorboard.

Tip: Before installing the board, remove it from the boxes and place it indoors for at least 24 hours. The material must adapt to the microclimate of the room.

Varieties of rough coatings for laying plank floors:

1. The most common installation scheme for a floorboard is to lay it on logs. Lags are called wooden block boards with a rectangular cross-section. They are fixed on the rough base using mastic or a self-tapping screw. The laying of the lag occurs in the perpendicular direction to the installation of the floorboard.

After installing the lag, the process of their alignment takes place. To do this, chips are substituted under them. In addition, there is a special system of adjustable lags, allowing for mechanical alignment by twisting the required sections.

2. When arranging a floor made of moisture-resistant plywood, it is laid on almost any base, including logs, if necessary, additional strengthening of multilayer structural parts of the floor. The standard set of works for installing a floorboard on such a coating involves its preliminary leveling. Styling plywood sheets cut into longitudinal sections occurs diagonally in relation to the laying of the floorboards. Plywood is fixed with screws or dowels. It is recommended to leave seams technological purpose, when arranging a plywood floor, to compensate for its expansion and contraction with temperature changes.

Installation of such a floor includes the presence of:

rough base;
insulating substrate;
directly moisture-resistant plywood;
floor covering;
boards.

Tip: If the floor is concrete with sand-cement screed, then ordinary glue is used to fix the plywood. When choosing an adhesive, make sure that it is suitable for working with both plywood and concrete. This procedure is also suitable for wooden floors.

When the plywood is laid, there is a process of sanding and removing all dirt and dust. Before installing the floorboard, the surface is treated with a primer, and then the boards are fixed. The main floor must also be sanded, covered with varnish and oil.

3. Installation of floorboards on an existing floor involves checking the old floor for defects, for the reliability of fasteners and the strength of the base. If necessary, old worn boards or damaged fasteners must be replaced.

Tip: Place the floorboard on top of the old floor in such a way as to ensure a perpendicular connection.

Experienced builders give recommendations on dismantling the old floor and arranging a concrete screed, since such a floor can last much longer, but if financial capabilities do not allow this, then it is quite possible to install a floorboard on an old wooden floor.

In addition, a lot of attention should be paid to the choice of insulation and waterproofing. These materials must have high quality characteristics. The insulation should be inedible for rodents, moisture resistant and not shrink. Waterproofing should differ in the duration of operation.

If the floor is located in a building on the first floor, then its insulation is mandatory. It is allowed not to insulate the floor of the first floor if there is a basement with heating. For insulation, it is recommended to use basalt or mineral wool, it is distinguished by vapor permeability and good thermal insulation characteristics.

Thermal insulation is laid in the space with honey logs, while its tight fit should be ensured. The vapor-permeable waterproofing is installed on top of the thermal insulation. Please note that a space of up to four centimeters thick must be left between the subfloor and these layers, providing natural ventilation floor. Otherwise, mold and mildew will form on the floor, leading to premature deterioration.

To protect the multilayer structure from moisture coming from below, it is recommended to use waterproofing membranes with a high vapor permeability. If the fumes circulate freely in the underground space, the wood will last much longer.

The best is considered to be a floorboard made of Siberian larch or oak. These types of trees are resistant to ultraviolet light, moisture and temperature extremes. In a room in which people are inconsistent and there are small loads, for example, in a nursery or bedroom, a floorboard made of aspen or alder wood is used. Quite rarely, floorboards are used, the basis of which is pine or fir. They are more suitable for the construction of subfloors or rolls.

The shape of the floorboard depends on the personal preferences of the owners of the premises. Based on the strength, the best option is to use a forty millimeter board. Too thick boards can deform over time, since moisture remains in them due to the large thickness during the drying process.

The choice of floorboards belonging to a certain grade is influenced by the purpose of the room, the area of installation, the subsequent finishing and the financial capabilities of the owners. The premium flooring has a flat surface and a beautiful, clear pattern. Therefore, after installation, such a floor is opened with varnish. Variants of the first or second grade have a small amount of knots, which also look beautiful without painting. If you plan to paint the floor later, then definitely choose a floorboard of the third or fourth grade.

When laying a floorboard, in most cases only tongue-and-groove materials are used, which are easy to work with and easy to install. Straight boards after a certain period of time are deformed and gaps appear in them.

Laying floors from grooved boards

A tongue-and-groove board is a standard board construction with grooves that snap into place during installation. Thus, it turns out to achieve a better fixation and a strong connection.

When choosing the direction of laying the floor, you should focus on the luminous flux. The boards are laid parallel to it. If you plan to install a floor in a vestibule or in a corridor room, then you should proceed from the vector of movement along which the floor is installed.

There are two ways to lay the boards:

with offset elements;
without shifting elements.

When floorboards are laid, a perfect undercut of the boards is required. Lack of experience in this matter will not help to achieve perfectly even right angles, therefore, in this case, it is better to trust a specialist. When laying boards in this way, it is recommended to purchase or make a template version, according to which the undercut will be made. At the edges of the room, it is also required to maintain a certain indentation. To ensure longitudinal movements, it is necessary to have an interval between the board and the wall, the size of which is from 0.5 to 2 cm. At the end of the installation, the slab is attached.

For a clearer understanding of the installation process of a grooved floorboard, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with a short instruction:

1. The presence of a fastener or a ledge on the boards allows you to connect them to each other. But, when laying the first grooved board, the protrusion should be located exactly near the wall. This setting will facilitate the bonding of subsequent boards.

2. The connection of the second board with the first one occurs with the help of a groove-tenon contact. It is not recommended to use nails during this procedure, as they are prone to corrosion, which will provoke frequent washing floor, there may be a risk of their hats coming out, leading to injury.

3. Use self-tapping screws with an optimal diameter of four millimeters and a length of up to seven centimeters as a retainer.

4. There are two ways to fix the boards:

with a tilt of the self-tapping screw at forty-five degrees;
without tilting - while all the caps of the self-tapping screws are sealed with a sealant.

The first option is aesthetically pleasing, and the second is reliable.

5. Fastening of the extreme parts of the boards located near the walls is carried out exclusively with self-tapping screws.

Finally, the floor is sanded. This will require sandpaper or a sander. In the presence of large irregularities, it is required to carry out a scraping. Further, the surface is opened with varnish, and painted during production.

Floor laying parquet board: technology and features

For the manufacture of parquet boards, wood is used. There are several types of parquet boards:

massive - has three layers, for the first one uses solid hardwood, for the second - hard coniferous wood, and for the third softwood;
extra-board - the first layer is also hard, but for the manufacture of the second and third, waste components or soft wood are used.

To stylize the parquet with a woody texture, one more is glued onto it. upper layer... In relation to the thickness, the parquet can be from 7 mm to 2.5 cm. The quality of sound and heat insulation, as well as the ability to withstand certain loads, depends on the thickness of the parquet board.

When laying boards up to two centimeters thick, a flat concrete base is required. If the thickness exceeds this limit, the parquet board is laid on the joists.

When the parquet board has already been purchased, it is necessary to unpack it and leave it for a day in the room where it will be installed. Before installing it, you must complete all renovation work, especially wall decoration. Since it will adjoin them tightly.

If the parquet board is installed on an old wooden base. It is recommended to check it for unsuitable boards and replace them. If there are large gaps, it is recommended to use PVA glue to fill them. This is followed by the process of scraping the floor.

If the parquet board is installed on a concrete base, make sure that it is even and that there are no large differences. The concrete surface should not be wet, in order to check it for the presence of moisture, you should use plastic wrap, which covers the floor for a day. If, after removing the film, there is no condensation, feel free to start laying the parquet, but before that, apply a primer to the concrete base.

Conditions for installing a parquet board:

the room temperature is about +17 degrees;
air humidity from 45 to 60%.

If these parameters are observed, the coating will last longer.

There are two ways to install parquet boards up to 2 cm thick:

1. Floating - first, a polyethylene film is installed, with an overlap of 18 cm, tape is used to fix them, then foam polyethylene is installed or cork backing, for gluing the joints, metallized cattle is used, then the installation of the parquet board is carried out.

The parquet board is installed perpendicular to the window. The first board is laid with a tenon base to the wall, which is pre-cut for a tighter fit of the boards. The spacing between the wall and the board depends on the total length of the room. For a length of one meter, a one and a half centimeter gap is required. To fix the board against the wall, you need to install special pegs.

2. Adhesive - suitable for spacious, large rooms. This method assumes installation of moisture-resistant plywood on a rough base, on the surface of which glue is applied, and then a parquet board is installed.

If you want the floors in your house to be not only beautiful, but also environmentally friendly, then you can consider laying a floorboard. It is natural floor covering has an ancient history, since solid wood boards were used in ancient Greece and Russia. Now this material is gaining more and more popularity, and this is due to the fact that the floorboard has a long service life, looks good, is easy to clean, and is resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations. It is quite possible to lay the floorboard on your own, you just need to observe some of the nuances in the process of work.

There are two widespread options for laying the floorboard: on wooden logs and by gluing (or self-tapping screws) to the prepared surface. Don't be confused with how to lay your parquet board.

This method is used in houses with wooden interfloor ceilings or with high ceilings. In this case, the thickness of the floorboard must be at least 30 mm.

Laying the floorboard with glue

With this method, the surface of the base and the boards themselves must be perfectly smooth. The process of laying the board is similar to laying parquet, but the boards are fixed with self-tapping screws, and the holes from the fasteners are then closed with special plugs. Usually this method is used for rooms with low ceilings.

It is important to choose the right adhesive for gluing the floorboard. For short planks (about 50 cm), you can use any glue (polyurethane, epoxy, dispersion, etc.), but remember that boards made of beech or exotic wood should not be glued with dispersion glue. For long boards, adhesives are used based on two-component epoxy-polyurethane compounds or with synthetic resins. Any floorboard adhesive must have sufficient ductility and strength.

Floorboard base options

There may be several of them:

Existing floor (usually wood)
Concrete base - screed logs or plywood
Load-bearing timber floors

Laying on existing floor

First of all, it must be stable, if this condition is met, then the first step is to grind the floor with a grinder. If the heat-insulating and moisture-resistant properties of the current floor are insufficient, then it is necessary to use a special moisture-proof film made of foamed polyethylene. There is also the option of covering the existing floor with plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm, which is then carefully sanded.

Laying on a concrete base

In this case, it is important to lay a waterproofing layer between the concrete base and the floorboard. To do this, use either a foamed polyethylene film or a primer mastic. A film with a thickness of 2-3 mm is applied to the base with an overlap, and the mastic is applied with a roller. If the mastic is too thick, it can be thinned with a solvent.

If the lag option is used concrete screed, then it is important that all logs are the same, and the humidity does not exceed 18%. Lags are attached to concrete base screws, and the floorboards are laid on them in the perpendicular direction. If communications and wires pass along the concrete base, then in order not to damage them, you can use glue or bitumen mastic, with which moisture is glued. Also, these compositions also serve as a moisture-protective layer. The free space between the logs is filled with insulation plates, and a waterproofing film is laid on the logs before laying the floorboard.

For plywood backing, it is important to choose the right plywood. It must be at least 18 mm thick. Typically, standard plywood sheets with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm are cut into strips 50-60 mm wide.

Plywood sheets are fixed to the concrete base with screws or dowels (approximately 15 pieces of fasteners per one square meter of plywood). Usually plywood is laid diagonally and then sanded with a belt sander. Further, it is cleaned of dust and dirt and the laying of the floorboard begins.

Laying the floorboard

Before starting the installation, the boards are unpacked and kept in that room. Where they will be mounted for at least a week (or preferably two). This must be done to prevent deformation of the floor.

The floorboards are fastened to the base with self-tapping screws, the caps of which are sunk into the grooves to a depth of 2 mm. This must be done for free passage of the tongue of the adjacent board. Holes for fasteners are made in advance. Even if the floorboard is laid on a flat base without a moisture-proof film and in this case parquet glue is used, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the boards with self-tapping screws.

In order for the boards to fit tightly to each other, wedges are used, but it must be remembered that a gap of 6-10 mm must be left between the walls and the boards around the perimeter of the room.

Floorboard laying: what you need to know for a quality repair

How to make a do-it-yourself floorboard

The current prices for "ready-made" building materials sometimes force home craftsmen to resort to various tricks that can significantly reduce the cost of the desired product, and the secrets of how to make a floorboard with your own hands or turn a rounded log into a bar that is not inferior in quality to the "store" and are transmitted by word of mouth in personal conversations and communication on thematic Internet forums.

It would seem, why such difficulties? But, upon closer examination, the goods on sale often do not meet the declared requirements, and making a board with your own hands allows you to get the material of the required quality, length and width in the shortest possible time, while sometimes you have to spend more than one precious hour looking for suitable sawn timber. time.

What is required home master for DIY floorboards?

DIY floor board: stages of work

In order to make a do-it-yourself floorboard, you will need to purchase a bar or rounded log, which can be "dissolved" into thinner workpieces (on average, at least 20 mm thick), it is they who will subsequently turn into lining or grooved lumber. The material prepared for sawing is marked and cut according to the selected thickness of the workpieces, and then dried in natural conditions until the moisture level is less than 50%.

Sawed and dried wood must be cut in length and width, bringing them to a "common denominator" - usually no more than 2.5 m in length and 150-200 mm in width, and give it a smooth cut surface using a planer.

It is better to mark the straight cut side - the "front" one at once, simplifying the process of further work with the material.

The workpieces obtained in this way are leveled using a planer or a saw, then the board is processed using abrasive materials, the places for eliminating defects are treated with special compounds, and then carefully polished and, if necessary, impregnated or coated with paints and varnishes.

If we are talking about a grooved board, it will be necessary to additionally carry out work on milling the edge of lumber using manual or stationary equipment.

It should be borne in mind that the percentage of "rejects" with this option for the production of floorboards will be close to 30% - what turns out to be unsuitable for use in its pure form can be cut to the desired size and used for other purposes.

Making floorboards with your own hands: the subtleties of the process

Getting down to self-production floorboards you should pay attention to such points as:

the choice of lumber for the manufacture of boards - it is better to give preference to conifers, but in general, you can use birch or maple;

the period of drying of lumber - in natural conditions it is at least six months, it makes sense to clarify the degree of moisture content of the wood before it is purchased;

availability of the necessary equipment - in the absence of a special three-sided machine, which makes it possible to significantly simplify the cutting of the material, you can use a conventional circular saw.

Making a floorboard with your own hands is a simple and convenient option for those who want to be sure of the quality of lumber, but in the absence of the necessary tool base, it is worth considering the feasibility of carrying out such work “at home”.

In the video below you can see how a do-it-yourself floorboard is made:

Floor board mounting methods
Fixing floor nails with nails
Sticky method
staple
Special screws for floor panels
Recommendations for installing floor panels

Having arranged a floor in a house, in addition to choosing the type of flooring, special attention should be paid to the choice of a method for determining the resulting material.

They use their own fixing methods for each building material, even for the floor slab. Consider the safest and most popular methods to improve your board.

Floor board mounting methods

Therefore, soils covering quite a few heavy loads must be selected using a tie-down method with all responsibilities.

Do-it-yourself slab floor or how to make wooden floors in a private house

If some floorboards are not well protected, they will relax after a while.

This usually happens after a short time. The floorboards move, at the beginning the floor starts to creak unpleasantly and often just collapses.

There are several common ways to repair floorboards:

secret method, that is, the use of self-tapping screws or nails;
with glue;
Clamping.

We then look at how the floorboards are defined by each method.

Fixing floor nails with nails

In this case, the floor slab is attached to a wooden base, which can be solid or made of logs.

Then explain how to install the floor panel using this docking method.

The first type of floor plates are attached to nails that are driven at a 45 ° angle through the ridge to the base.

Then they brought them to their place. Holes for fasteners. To do this, do not damage the ridges.

When setting the next row, the nails should be hidden. All the following lines of planks are fixed with nails along the surface.

When repairing the boarding and replacing multiple floor plates, make sure all floor plates are below the center of the bar.

Otherwise, you may end up with solid coverage.

Sticky method

If the flooring is built on a solid base, it can be secured with adhesive. To do this, the grooves of the plates are impregnated with glue, you can use regular PVA glue, and then sit on the dies of the previous row.

The adhesive should be applied in a thin layer in 50 cm increments over the entire groove.

The adhesive composition should also be applied to the final edge of the edge.

staple

Some types of plates come with special clips that fit into a slot that is accessible on the inside of them. These elements are designed to be combined into boards. So how do you install the flooring using this fixing method?

To do this, consider the following technology:

The wetted floor is laid with waterproofing material, which must be attached to the walls with construction straps.
In the grooves of the plates indicated in the first row, the hammer must be driven into the clamps.
This is in the direction of the cup.
The ends of the lamellas are greased with glue, then the first row is applied.
Insert wedges about 1 cm thick between the wall and the panels.
Other types of plates are also clamped. The floorboards are secured in place, gently press down with a hammer along the line along the edges of the line.
Likewise, the remaining games fit.
Then the wedges between the wall and the lid are removed.
Knitting boards set.

Special screws for floor panels

Professional floorboard magnets use special screws for self-supporting floorboards.

The use of such anchoring material results in a floor covering that is securely attached and has a long service life.

Compared to conventional screwdrivers, the cost of this type is higher. However, they are more effective in their properties.

The special screws for floor slabs have the following characteristics:

These fasteners are available in different sizes.
The standard cross-section is 3.5 mm, the length can be 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. The screw size is selected depending on the thickness of the floor slabs.
This parquet equipment is non-corrosive as it has a protective coating.
At the end of the screw there is a blade that allows it to be screwed into wood without holes for drilling.
In addition, this design allows the screw to be screwed into a tighter one, which means that the fixing of the floor tiles to the sub-floor is stronger.
The screw has a special cutter. It is such that fastener can easily penetrate wood and not split.
The self-tapping screws for the floorboards have one more design feature consisting of no thread cutting at the top.
This shape allows the floor to be covered closer to the subfloor.

Here are some tips on how to properly install your floorboard:

Place the floor slabs on the base with screws in 25-30 cm increments.
Some craftsmen recommend that the adhesive used to install the parquet be applied to the underlay before laying the baseboard and securing it to the underlay.
You can use this option if a waterproofing layer (such as plastic sheeting) is not suitable. Do not use the glue-only fixation method. It is used only as an adjunct to the basic fastening procedure with nails or screws.

Without them, you will not be able to securely and securely fix the floorboards (see “How to apply flooring from panels - step-by-step instructions”).
There should be no rigid support of the panels on the wall around the entire perimeter of the room. The gap between the wall and ceiling beams should be left by about 10 mm. It will act like a line stitch.
The screws used when installing the wood floor can be completely hidden. To do this, the screws with a self-sealing imprint must be inserted into the wood by about 3-4 mm.
The resulting holes can be hidden with pieces of wood that match their shape and size. It also needs to be the same type of wood with the floor tiles. Most companies that produce high quality wood-based panels are complemented by similar corks.

The strength, reliability and life of the soil will depend on how to lay the ground. Therefore, when installing the floor, it is very important to correctly fix the floor slabs, so it is worth considering the choice of how to fix the panels correctly.

Floorboard processing

Finishing a floorboard is an important step in creating a beautiful and durable floor covering. Like any other natural material, the tree will begin to lose its properties over time.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to carefully process the floorboards. By creating a protective layer against the effects of various factors environment, the lifespan of the floor covering is extended.

Floorboard processing technologies

Exists various technologies in the processing of floorboards.

The most popular are four of them.

Treatment of the floorboard with a special antiseptic material. Its main purpose is to protect the surface from the formation of fungus, from the reproduction of harmful insects inside the tree and from the occurrence of the process of decay of the material.
Plank processing is carried out before starting floor laying work.

Antiseptics are very different. It is very important to consider their toxicity. If the floorboard is installed in a child's room, then a toxic antiseptic will not work. But the flooring in a public cafe can be treated with an antiseptic with the presence of chemical components.

Sanding floorboards.
This flooring technology is also called scraping. Before installing the board, make it even and clean.

Grinding is also used during the restoration of the old floor, when there is no Money for laying a new floor covering.
Treatment of floorboards with varnish. This technology is rather laborious. Each board shall be varnished at least three times. There are various varnishes. Drying times are different for them. Therefore, the process of processing the floorboard in this case takes a little longer.

Modern market building materials suggests the use of fast drying varnishes.

After the varnish is completely dry, the board is subjected to the finest sanding procedure. It makes it possible to remove irregularities. After that, the floorboard is again varnished.

Varnishes for the treatment of flooring can be both transparent and tinted.

If the texture of the board itself is very beautiful, then it does not need to be overshadowed by a shade. If the board looks dull, then this problem can be solved with the help of a tint varnish.

Painting floorboards. This technology is considered classic. People have been using it for a very long time.
Laying the floorboard

It is a kind of alternative to varnishing the surface. It is necessary to paint the board in several layers. Laying the floor in this situation is possible only after the paint has completely dried.
Wax treatment of floorboards. This technology, like painting, has been used by craftsmen for a very long time. The material is applied only on a smooth and clean surface. After that, sanding of the floor begins. The wax makes the floors moisture resistant, as well as imparts a particularly attractive appearance and enchanting shine.
Oil treatment.
This lubricant takes time to dry. It fits perfectly into the structure of the board and best of all hides its visible defects.

Preparing the surface of the board for processing

You can process floorboards immediately after purchase. However, the board must meet the required requirements.

The material must be completely dry. If the board is wet, then a fungus may have already formed inside it or the process of decay has begun.

Floorboard processing is only possible on a clean surface. Any dirt and dust will affect the uniform application of the protective layer.

Before you start working with the boards, you should create a place for them to dry quietly. It may not take a single day for this.

Floorboard laying. Technologies and useful tips.

The laying of the floorboard is carried out according to existing technologies, and not out of arrogance, which leads, you know what, to what.

Before laying the floorboard, you need to decide on the type of wood.

If you lay on the basis of technology, then you can choose any breed with the pattern you like, even expensive, since the thickness is small. If the laying of the floorboard will be carried out using the "logs" technology, then you should choose larch, pine or spruce.

Laying technology

Laying floorboards made of Siberian larch, according to the "on the base" technology, involves covering a concrete or other coating, with insulation or waterproofing, then with plywood and already on top of the floorboard.

OSB boards can be used instead of plywood. The floorboard itself is attached either to a solid base (plywood, OSB - plate) with self-tapping screws or to an adhesive. The floorboard is laid horizontally relative to the window (parallel). A gap must be left in one place, which is closed by a plinth or something similar. This gap serves as a ventilation pocket for your floor, thereby removing excess moisture from it.

Features of the technology of laying "on logs"

Laying the floorboard using the "logs" technology involves laying the beams on the ribs parallel to each other along the window at intervals of 70 cm.

This gap can be reduced by 10 cm or increased if you choose a smaller bar - thicker than average.

Arrangement of floors using floorboards

The bars are laid on a concrete surface, so they must be protected from moisture with an antiseptic. The floorboard is laid, on the contrary, parallel to the window, but if the length of the board does not cover the entire surface and requires continuation along, using another board, then such joints should be fixed and made in place of the lag.

Do not forget to fill the space between the logs with insulation before laying the floorboard. The logs are fastened with a transverse fastening, and the floorboard to the logs - with self-tapping screws. When laying using this technology, the thickness of the floorboard should be at least 3.5 cm, which is 1 cm more than when laying on a base.

At the end of laying the floorboard using any technology, it will be better if you cover it with oil or varnish, which will emphasize the wood pattern and make it even more durable.

Having received useful tips about what kind of wood is better for laying the floor and what are the features of existing technologies, you can competently move from theory to practice.

How to install a floorboard

Have you decided to create beautiful wooden floors in your home, but don't know how to install a floorboard?

This is not difficult to do. There are two ways how you can lay a floorboard, this is laying on wooden logs, and gluing or fastening with screws.

We lay the floorboard on the logs

This installation method can be used in houses with wooden floors or apartments with high ceilings.

For this, a floorboard is used with a thickness of at least thirty millimeters.

If you are laying boards on the ground floor, then first you need to put a waterproofing layer, for example roofing felt, but it is placed with an overlap along all the walls. After that, you need to install the lags. To do this, you can use wooden beams, the cross section of which is fifty to seventy millimeters, but do not forget to treat them with an antiseptic.

Lags must be laid after sixty seventy centimeters if the thickness of the floorboard is thirty-five millimeters.

Next, a layer of sound insulation should be laid, for this you can use either expanded clay or mineral wool. To achieve maximum results, we advise you to use a padding polyester. Now you can start laying the boards. We begin to lay the floorboard with the comb forward, and the groove should be directed to the master.

We put the very first board and fasten it with self-tapping screws in the place where it will hide floor plinth... Screw the remaining fasteners into the crest of the floorboard at a slight angle. If the boards are short, then the joints are made on logs.

After you have laid all the boards and secured them, we proceed to sanding and varnishing the floor.

You need to grind the floorboard in three different directions, this is along, across and diagonally. Most often, after the floor is sanded on wood, pile appears. You need to remove it by applying a layer of primer, and then sanding. Most often, it is enough to apply three coats of primer, and after each coat, the boards are sanded. The last time, grinding is done along the location of the fibers of the boards, using fine-grained sandpaper for this.

It is only necessary to wash such a floor with varnishes, whose strength is increased, and there should be at least two, and possibly three layers.

Putting the floorboard on glue

For this installation method, the base of the floor and the floorboards themselves must be flat.

The method of laying a floorboard is somewhat reminiscent of laying a parquet board, but the floorboard is fixed with self-tapping screws, and after installation, the fasteners are closed with special plugs.

Methods for self-laying floorboards - a detailed description

Most often, this type of installation is used in apartments or houses with low ceilings.

The main point is right choice glue, in order to glue the floorboards.

If the bar is short, about fifty centimeters, then it is allowed to use any glue, polyurethane, epoxy or dispersion. However, do not forget that floorboards made of beech or other exotic trees, cannot be glued with dispersion glue.

For longer floorboards, two-component epoxy-polyurethane compounds or synthetic resin are used. When choosing an adhesive, do not forget that it must have plastic properties and strength.

Correct laying of boards

Before proceeding with the installation, the boards are unpacked and left in the room where they will be laid.

This is done to avoid deforming the floor.

The floorboard is fastened with self-tapping screws, the hat must be drowned into the groove by at least 2 millimeters. This is necessary so that the tongue of the adjacent board can easily pass through. We prepare the holes for fastening in advance. Even if you attach the boards with glue, you still need to attach them with self-tapping screws.

In the video below you can see how the laying of the floorboard on the logs is done.

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