How to do the drainage of a site with your own hands: we do the right drainage by examining the projects and types of systems. We do drainage on the site with our own hands How to properly do closed drainage on the site
Level up groundwater fraught negative consequences for land owners. This kind of flooding occurs due to melt water or due to high intensity of precipitation. Soils, consisting mainly of clay or loam, are a real disaster for the owners of summer cottages, since this rock is the substance that poorly passes water through itself. Consequently, soils of this type have to be drained using drainage, and not wait for the natural removal of excess moisture.
In this article, we will look at examples of how to make a do-it-yourself drainage of a summer cottage.
Before you start draining the soil, you need to understand what is required for the job and how to implement it. In most cases, landlords prefer to hire professionals to carry out drainage work, although such events are not cheap.
At the same time, the construction of a drainage system does not seem to be something super complicated. Almost anyone can master this skill by assimilating the necessary knowledge and purchasing the required material.
Results of refusal to carry out drainage works
Waterlogging can cause many problems, including the following:
- destruction of the foundation masonry, the appearance of cracks in the walls and curvature window openings, which manifests itself with regular flooding of buildings;
- failures on paths lined with stone or tiles, deformation of ordinary paths and squeezing out of pools due to the so-called heaving, which is due to the physical properties of soil oversaturated with moisture;
- the formation of mold and dampness as a result of flooding of spaces under the floor and basements;
- the death of trees and flowers, since the plants require a watering rate, and excessive moisture harms them.
Under what conditions is drainage at the summer cottage especially important
- Clay soil structure.
- High groundwater level.
- Most of the territory is covered with artificial materials, for example, in the form of concrete paths.
- The buildings erected on the territory are installed on deep foundations.
- The location of the site is determined by the lowland, when there is a nearby slope from which water can leave, or, conversely, the gentle place of the territory does not facilitate precipitation.
If your site complies with the above conditions or some of them are relevant, you should think about creating a soil drainage system.
The main mistake in the organization of drainage
The main drawback of arranging drainage at a summer cottage is poor design or its absence at all. At the same time, it is necessary to clearly understand how and to what extent the same drainage pipes will be installed. In this case, an analysis of the site is required, including the study of the occurrence and behavior of groundwater.
Water usually has the most detrimental effect on the foundation of structures, therefore it is worth paying attention to the design of drainage even at the stage of building a house. For example, it may be necessary to build another basement as a barrier to groundwater.
Refusal to design, as well as improper development of the drainage system are fraught with the emergence of problems, the solution of which will take a lot of time, effort and money.
Drainage types
There are two types of soil drainage systems:
Directly the drainage device on the site must be made either on an empty place from buildings and communications, or when all engineering structures for the house have already been laid. By contacting a specialized company, you can order the creation of a dehumidification system project and its installation.
A carefully developed drainage plan is an important part of the work due to the fact that in this case an individual approach is required, taking into account the full range of site features, including the location of plantings, communications, buildings and drainage systems of neighboring territories.
Surface drainage (from 1350 rubles per meter)
- Implies drainage of excess water.
- The depth of occurrence is from 50 to 70 cm.
- Its use is possible when it is warm outside.
To determine the cost of drainage, characterized as surface, it is required to refer to the following calculation formula, provided that the soils of the site contain a lot of clay:
S: 8 = L,
where S is the area of the territory, measured in m²; 8 - water collection area using 1 running meter of drainage; L is the length of the drainage system in running meters. m.
If in the conditions lay the area of the site in 1500 m2, then we calculate that the length of the drainage system should be 187.5 m, since 1500: 8 = 187.5. At the same time, in reality, a larger drainage footage will be required, which is determined by the need to lay it bypassing buildings and plantings, and these are extra meters.
As for calculating the installation of surface drainage on sandy soils, here it is necessary to slightly correct the formula, in particular, instead of 8, you will have to use the number 12.
Turnkey deep drainage (from 3300 rubles per meter)
- It is in demand for lowering the groundwater level and draining the territory.
- The depth of occurrence is from 1.5 m.
- Designed for year-round use.
The scheme of this type of drainage:
Installation
So, let's figure out how to make a soil drainage system for a site, point by point:
- When arranging surface drainage, it is provided for the presence of trenches with a depth of 50 to 70 cm, and deep - from 1.5 m.
- At the bottom of the ditch, sand is poured into one layer, the thickness of which is 5 cm.
- The next step is optional, but desirable if financially available. It is about laying geotextiles on the bottom of the grooves.
- Next, a layer of rubble 15 cm thick is placed.
- Drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are distributed in the trenches.
- Formed general system drainage of the soil by connecting cylindrical structures.
- A layer of crushed stone with a thickness of 20 cm is laid.
- Geotextiles are being re-located.
- Next, the trenches are backfilled using sand and soil.
- The territory is put in order with the help of vegetative soil.
For the convenience of precipitation flow drainage system must be mounted with a slope towards the place of the site, which is its lowest point. Drainage ditches on the site, ponds and any ditches can be used as water intakes. Otherwise, you will have to equip a special well. Its main task is to cleanse the drainage system from sand (soil) and collect water pumped out drain pump... To ensure the possibility of repairing the structure and monitoring its condition, inspection wells are installed above the places of turns of pipes and their connections.
Surface drainage project
For an example of the operation of surface drainage, consider an extremely simple plan of such a system in relation to a certain area. As the initial information, let us set the condition that it rained, and the water was predominantly collected at three points (1, 2, 3).
The geography of the site is such that its surface slopes somewhat towards the opposite left corner when viewed from the side of the road. In this regard, the main trench (4) is located at the far end of the site. Excess water is discharged into this depression through auxiliary channels (5 and 6). Drainage of precipitation coming from the roof of the house is possible with the help of appropriate trenches (6 and 8). In the case of intersection of the path that runs along the house and outbuildings, it is planned to install a bridge (7).
Deep drainage project
Below is a plan of a soil drainage system, characterized as deep. The proposed scheme allows us to see that at first the water is collected with the help of drains (1), then enters the main pipe (2) with further flow into a special well and, finally, into the water intake. This system drainage is supplemented with wells used to control the operation of the structure under consideration (3).
When ensuring the functioning of any drainage, the main problem is the final removal of sediment from the site. For this, natural formations are usually used in the form of ravines, rivers, streams and ditches near the roads. In their absence, the so-called storm drains are created.
Deep drainage pipes
There are perforated products specially designed for creating deep drainage systems for a summer cottage, which are equipped with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Previously, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes were used for this purpose, which have such a disadvantage as fast clogging, which required regular flushing.
Today the situation has changed, as the market has been filled with polymer pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, which are suitable for irrigation and drainage works. There are brands of similar products, supplemented with a filter shell, which excludes the possibility of clogging the holes with soil and sand particles.
What is geotextile
A material known as geotextile is used to provide soft drainage. The main properties are that it can actively absorb moisture and retain small grains of debris. Usually, the use of this material is more justified in those areas where there is a significant amount of moisture. In this regard, it is somewhat thoughtless to use geotextiles when creating drainage systems in crushed stone and clay soils.
Drainage well
To collect sediments in the absence of natural formations, a drainage well is created in the form of the same ponds, which is a container that is buried in the soil below the level of the pipes. With this object, water is first accumulated, then distributed. Special cylindrical structures are connected to it, and a pipe or pump is mounted on top to drain excess water. 
The drainage well allows you to monitor the system and carry out preventive maintenance. A plastic container can be used as a reservoir for such an element by purchasing it from specialized store or the appropriate department of the mall. In addition, a drainage well can be built independently using reinforced concrete rings.
conclusions
Installation of a soil drainage system is a rather laborious process. However, this should not discourage you from the desire to independently mount such a structure, since everyone can do such work. home master without the involvement of specialists.
In areas with a predominance of clay or swampy soils, it is advisable to equip a drainage system. It will help to avoid excessive waterlogging of the soil, increase productivity, and save the foundation of the house from natural soaking and premature destruction.
The general scheme of the drainage of the adjoining area
How to determine the need for a drainage system
The surest sign of increased soil moisture is the massive growth of plants, characteristic of marshy areas. These include weeping willow, sedge, reeds.
In addition to plants, evidence of the close occurrence of groundwater will be puddles that remain after rain or spring melting of snow. If they do not go away for a long time, then there is enough other moisture in the ground.
It does not always rain, so it is much easier to use the long-proven method of checking the soil moisture level. To do this, you need to dig a hole about half a meter deep at the highest place of the site. If water collects at the bottom during the day, it means that this area needs drainage.
Varieties of drainage systems
There are several types of systems that produce drainage of an area with a high level of groundwater. Before laying any of them, you should understand the installation methods more carefully.
Types of surface drainage systems
Surface drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater in adjoining and summer cottages is conventionally divided into two groups:
Linear. It is equipped by digging trenches on the soil surface along the perimeter of the site and serves to drain moisture from rain and snow. It functions smoothly only on flat surfaces without a sharp drop in the relief. To do this, they dig trenches up to 30 cm deep and cover the walls with fine gravel. The disadvantage of such a system is that it looks rather unaesthetic and needs constant cleaning from leaves and small debris.
Elements of point and linear drainage
Point. The simplest type of drainage is when drainage tanks are installed in places where water is abundantly drained - under roof gutters, shallow ravines.
Installation of such systems does not require special knowledge, design calculations, and takes place "by eye".
Deep drainage system
In the event that the site is built on clay soil, with a sharp drop in the relief or in an area with abundant groundwater, deep drainage is required. It is quite difficult to install. To develop a system design, you must contact a special bureau that provides services for geological soil exploration. Its specialists will accurately determine the level at which the abundant aquifers pass and will help to competently cope with this problem.
Drainage project development
All deep systems are built on the same principle. The site drainage project is designed in such a way that all secondary moisture collection pipes are connected to the central main. It, in turn, ends in the main receiving reservoir or is brought to the surface in a drainage ravine.
An example of deep drainage in the video:
In this case, the water intake should be located at the lowest point of the system. A very important point in the project should be the level and angle of the drainage pipes. In order to avoid silting or clogging, competent specialists will always offer the customer to mount inspection wells at every turn of the system. If necessary, or after several years, the wells are opened and the pipes are cleaned from debris under high pressure with water pressure.
The water intake is always located below the level of soil freezing. Usually this mark varies within 1-1.5 m.
Additional Information! For the installation of the drainage system, perforated pipes are always selected. With their surface, they suck in excess moisture from the soil and remove it from the site. A big mistake is that exactly the same pipes drain water from under the gutters from the roofs. On the contrary, abundant moisture from precipitation should be discharged into the central sewerage system in a separate way and not fall back into the ground through a perforated outlet. Otherwise, it will fall into the ground again and gradually begin to destroy the foundation of the structure.
Installation steps
After a detailed plan has been drawn up and all accompanying factors have been taken into account, you can begin to arrange drainage. It can be conditionally divided into the following stages:
Territory marking. On the entire surface of the site, with the help of pegs and a rope, they mark the future project.
Drainage pipes marking and laying
Digging trenches. Ditches are dug to a depth of about 70 cm + 20 cm to seal the bottom. The width of the ditch varies within the range of corrugation width + 40 cm for freedom of bedding.
Ditch sealing. The bottom of the trench is tamped and covered with a layer of sand 10 cm. A layer of fine gravel is poured on top.
Pipe laying. For deep drainage, it is most advisable to use plastic pipes with perforation. V Lately pipes wrapped in a special filter cloth began to be popular. It is needed in order to prevent sand clogging the system. On bends, in places where inspection wells are installed, holes are made in the pipes for the convenience of flushing the line. During laying work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of inclination of the pipes with the building level.
Filling up the filter layer. To prevent premature siltation, the laid pipes are covered with a new layer of rubble. A decorative layer of soil is laid on top and leveled well.
Ready-made drainage with intermediate well
The device of a water intake well. At the lowest point of the site, the main tank is installed, into which the collected water from the central line will accumulate. Near the well, if necessary, a pump is installed to pump out water.
The collected water can be used to irrigate flower beds and other plantings during the dry season.
Artificial pond drainage
Some landscape designers suggest replacing the main water intake well with an artificial reservoir, thus decorating the site. The main disadvantage of this beautiful design solution- the risk of waterlogging of the man-made lake.
In this case, it is definitely worthwhile to separately equip an additional pond drainage system. It is better to lay out its bottom with a layer of fine stone and sand and tamp it well. If the owner of the estate has expressed a desire to cover the surface of the reservoir with a film, it is necessary to equip an additional well (sluice). It is dug at a distance of about a meter from the pond and connected to it with a pipe along the surface. In case of excessive filling of the main reservoir, excess moisture will overflow into the additional reservoir. Water from the purification well is pumped out as necessary.
Decorating a drainage system for a lake
Also, do not neglect simple and effective ways drainage of the territory. Trees or shrubs planted along the banks will naturally evaporate excess water through the leaves.
Drainage features if the site is sloped
Drainage in an area with a slope is carried out according to the standard scheme. The only difference is that all auxiliary pipes are mounted according to the herringbone system in relation to the central line. It is imperative to monitor the correct slope of the pipes. The water intake well, in this case, is installed at the lowest point of the site.
Price
If you have certain knowledge and experience, you can drain the site with your own hands. But only a well-planned drain will work correctly, draining the area in a timely and efficient manner. Only experienced specialists can eliminate many errors, correctly calculate the angles of inclination and choose the project that is optimal in terms of material consumption. It is worth noting that drawing up a competent plan will help to avoid additional redevelopments in the future, which will significantly reduce the material costs of the owner of the personal plot.
It is best when drainage is designed with the house.
Price finished project drainage system with installation depends on the size of the territory, the desired number of viewing wells, the complexity of the relief. The cost of a turnkey drainage system starts at 1200 rubles per running meter. Glubinny - from 2700 rubles per r.m.
As practice shows, it is most expedient to equip deep and surface drainage at the same time. In this case, both systems will work simultaneously and with greater efficiency. Timely cleaning and proper care behind inspection and wells will significantly extend the life of the system and the integrity of the foundations of buildings.
It is definitely worth considering that the soil in the place of the trenches will give significant shrinkage in the very first season. Therefore, you should not immediately decorate it with capital plantings. Better to survive at least one flood season and re-level the relief with an additional layer of earth.
To significantly reduce installation costs, drainage pipes in the country can be replaced with a bunch of dry branches or a structure made of PET containers.
It is clear what the drainage of the site is and how it works in the video:
As a result, with a high occurrence of groundwater at the site, the arrangement of a drainage system is not a luxury, but an urgent need. The cost of the arrangement is low and in any case will pay for itself within a couple of seasons.
Reading time ≈ 14 minutes
As you know, drainage of a plot with a high level of groundwater will improve the land plot. It is not difficult to make it with your own hands, but it is necessary, since the soil is not always suitable for growing, construction and other agricultural work, for example, due to excessive moisture. This device will help remove excess moisture at no extra cost.
Excess moisture in the soil
High groundwater level - what is it and why does it interfere?
Owners of land plots with an excess of moisture get quite unpleasant moments. Determining the excess moisture in the soil is quite simple. The presence of puddles that stagnate and do not disappear for a long time (they are not absorbed into the ground). Stagnation can last from several days to a couple of weeks, "pleasing" with its presence. But this is not the saddest manifestation. This also includes:
- garden plants and trees get wet;
- partial or complete destruction of the foundations of buildings;
- the inability to grow their own garden crops.
All this is not so harmless. Two factors can lead to this state of the soil. The first factor is the location of your site. Such high humidity is often observed in areas that are in lowlands. In this case, melt, rain and other water will flow down and accumulate below. The second factor depends on the groundwater level. If they are close to the surface, then their excess will be acutely felt.
In any case, it is quite possible to solve this problem, although forces and materials will be required. But in the end you will get a soil suitable for work and life. To remove excess water, special drainage systems are installed. They can be from the most elementary to multilevel branched. It all depends on the degree of flooding of your site and, of course, your capabilities. In addition, you can choose how to create a drain. There are two ways.
- Surface drainage. They are installed in order to drain water from the territory of the site, which has accumulated as a result of the seasonal flood period or after large areas.
- Deep drainage. They are used in order to directly reduce the level of soil moisture due to the drainage of water lying in the soil.
But for the exact choice of the drainage method, you need to fully understand the true state of the soil and other nuances. And also for what purposes the drainage actions will be carried out.
If we talk about the complexity of the independent construction of this system, then both methods are quite realistic to do at home, without resorting to the help of craftsmen and builders.
Surface drainage: project creation and system construction
Surface drainage can be performed in two different schemes: linear or point. The point scheme is suitable for removing moisture from free-standing places of small dimensions. Where water accumulates most of all, water intakes are installed, which are intended for this. Most often, such elements can be found under ordinary gutters, at the bottom of the terrace, at the entrance areas where there are depressions in the landscape, and so on.
Point drainage system
It is worth noting that surface drainage is considered the most in a simple way get rid of excess moisture in the soil. To do it, you don't even need to draw up special diagrams and draw drawings.
If we talk about linear drainage, then it requires more strength to create and install. It requires the creation of a schema. Such a system is used to:
- remove moisture from buildings;
- protect paths from unnecessary water;
- drain the entrances;
- prevent the most fertile ball of soil from being washed away and much more.
The very design of such a system consists of a specially designed complex of shallow trenches, which are laid at the desired angle throughout the site and where water accumulates most. To drain a site with a high groundwater level with your own hands, you need to do the following steps.
- Make ditches. If the area is clayey soil, then this is ideal for draining water. ditches are laid throughout the site. Before doing this, you need to create a plan that is easy to draw on paper. The entire ditch system and the very place where the drainage well will be located will be marked on it. It is in it that all the water from the soil will be collected.
Linear drainage ditches
- Each ditch should be about half a meter wide and about 70 cm deep. The frequency of these trenches depends on how large the amount of water is. The greater the boggy and clay content of the site, the large quantity trenches must be made.
- For the full and effective operation of open drainage, it is necessary to pay attention to the slope of the ditches. They should be inclined towards the side where the water intake will stand. If your area has uneven terrain, then just dig them down the slope. In the case of a flat area, you need to build a slope yourself. If this is not done, then the water will not be removed, but simply collected in the ditches and will stagnate.
Slope calculation can also be done based on general instruction... So, the minimum slope for sandy soils is 0.003. For clayey soil, the indicator is different - 0, 002. The water receiver must be located below the very level of the drainage system. As proven by practice, the most the best option to create a slope are indicators in the range from 0, 005 to 0.01.
In addition to the slope of the ditch itself, it is necessary to observe the angle of inclination of their walls. It is best to do this at a 30-degree angle. In this case, water will easily enter the trench.
- The depth of the trenches is about 50 cm, and the width depends on how close the drainage well is. At the edge of the garden drainage system, there will be the thinnest trenches. And in the place where everyone converges into one, there will be the widest part.
- In order not to waste extra time and effort, you need to immediately check the system performance. If the drainage of water is incorrect or absent altogether, this ditch needs to be redone. Therefore, if you ennobled the system, and then check and something went wrong, you will have to completely redo everything.
- Verification is easy enough. It is necessary to let a strong stream of water through the ditches using a regular hose. Ideally, the water should come from not one but several sources. After letting in the water, see if all the water is directed to the well or if there are "faults" somewhere. You also need to pay attention to the rate of water withdrawal. If the water leaves rather slowly, this indicates that the slope of the drainage system is not large enough and needs to be increased.
- After you have checked the system and made sure of its full functioning, you can deal with its arrangement and refinement. After all, it is not very interesting to constantly observe ordinary dug ditches. Therefore, most owners of such a system try to decorate it in order to give it a more aesthetic look. Moreover, in addition to beauty, such an action is also of a purely practical nature. Trench walls tend to crumble and slide. And with the help of pebbles and rubble (different fractions are used), this can be prevented.
- The bottom is filled with rubble large fraction... Crushed stone with a smaller fraction is poured on top of them. Upper layer filled with marble chips. An alternative is to use decorative gravel of any color. If you take pebbles of blue color, then the effect of real streams on your site will be created. And along the edges-banks, you can place plants for heightened effect. Thus, you will not only have an efficient drainage system, but also a real yard decoration. Backfilling of trenches allows the system to be used as long as possible.
Ditches decorated like streams
- But the trenches, those that pass remotely and along the perimeter of the territory, can be closed with special decorative gratings. This looks much nicer, and it will also save the trench from getting debris and foreign objects into it.
Decorative grill on the drainage ditch
Do not forget that if the trenches remain open, then you will periodically have to clean them so that they do not clog and perform their functions properly.
Surface drainage will drain the soil in your area and allow you to grow crops and walk on dry paths.
Construction of deep or closed drainage on our own
If the first option is too simple for you, and the problem lies in the very close approach of groundwater to the surface and their high water content, then a deep drainage system should be installed. It is also called closed. To do it, you need to stock up necessary materials and get serious about this matter.
In order to build a drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater with your own hands, you need to do everything in turn.
Step 1
Initially, you need to determine at what depth the pipes will need to be laid. This value depends on how close the groundwater is to the surface. This can be determined by the following principle - the denser the earth, the shallower depth is needed. For instance:
- sandy soil - at least one meter;
- loam - about 80 cm;
- for clay soil - about 70-75 cm.
But when determining the depth, do not forget to take into account here how deep the soil freezes into winter period... It is necessary to lay the pipes of the drainage system lower than the freezing level passes. This arrangement will allow you to keep the pipes for as long as possible. After all, they will not deform and damage due to freezing of the remaining water during the frosty period.
Video: site drainage
Step 2
It is necessary to select pipes and the material from which they will be made. Today, most often drainage systems are made from pipes made of perforated plastic. The cost of such material is lower than ceramic products. And its safety is several times higher, especially when compared with asbestos cement.
But regardless of the material chosen, the pipe itself should be prepared and protected in order to prevent small particles of sand or small earth from getting inside. After all, this is how the pipe will sooner or later become clogged and stop performing its functions.
For such protection, it is good to use special geotextiles. They need to wrap all pipes, just consider the type of soil.
In the case of clayey soil, the use of geotextiles is not necessary. But instead, create a special gravel pillow, about twenty centimeters thick. Such a pillow is not needed on loams, but the use of a cloth with filtering functions is required. But if you are the owner of a site with sandy soil, then you need to wrap the pipes with geotextiles and create a gravel cushion from below and from above.
Why is such a pillow needed? The fact is that such a layer of sand and gravel is necessary for the drainage pipe. After all, its role is to depreciate. In addition, this is an additional filter ball that retains large particles of soil and other debris that are brought from groundwater and negatively affect the pipes of the system.
If you buy ready-made pipes for drainage, then they are made from perforated plastic. And the tube itself is already wrapped in a filter cloth, so you don't have to do it yourself. This will significantly save your time and money.
Finished pipe for drainage system
Step 3
Preparing the site for the water receiver. Even before the start construction works you need to choose a place where all the collected groundwater will drain. There can be many options. The easiest way is to create an outlet from a suitable pipe that will go beyond the summer cottage, and the water will drain into the ditch.
The ideal option is to build a drainage well. Its purpose has a broader meaning. For example, in addition to collecting excess water from the soil, such a well will help you survive dry periods. After all, you can then take water from it for watering the garden and other household needs. In addition, the outlet of the pipe is not always possible.
Drainage well in the country
Step 4
Excavation work begins with digging ditches. They, as in the previous version, should be done under some bias. If there are no other indicators, then for every meter of the trench there should be seven centimeters of slope. Use a building level to check the degree of slope. This should be done as often as possible so as not to redo in case of deviation.
It is best to arrange trenches according to the herringbone pattern. In this version, all the side grooves are assembled into one central one. For the center tube, use the wider diameter. It is from it that all the water will flow into the well.
Herringbone pipe arrangement
Step 5
Before laying the pipes, care must be taken to prepare the bottom of the ditch. Avoid unevenness and sharp drops at the bottom. The pipe must run on a flat bottom to avoid damage and deformation in the future. Indeed, where there are breaks in the soil, the pipe itself will sag under the pressure of the soil and break. Therefore, it is best to make a cushion before styling for extra cushioning.
Pour about 10 centimeters of sand at the bottom. It is necessary to choose a coarse-grained option. A ball of gravel of the same thickness is laid on top. After aligning the pillow, you can start laying the pipes.
There are situations when the creation of such a protective cushion is impossible. Then you need to stock up on geotextiles and line them with the entire trench. This will prevent silting of the drain pipes.
Pillow for pipes
Attention! When selecting filtering fabrics, it is worth choosing those that have a low density. If you take very dense options, then the groundwater will not quickly seep through it.
Step 6
Installation of a closed drainage system. All pipes must be laid out in ditches in accordance with the originally created plan. Then all of them need to be collected and connected into one network. For the connection, use tees and crosses of a suitable diameter.
Collecting pipes into the network
Step 7
After the entire network is completely assembled, it is necessary to cover it with sand. The layer should be from 10 to 15 cm. Crushed stone of the same thickness is laid on top of the sand. The void that remains is covered with ordinary earth so that small rolls can be formed. Don't worry about being visible. The fact is that over time, the soil will settle and all the balls will shrink. Therefore, the formed hills will descend to ground level.
Step 8
The drainage system in your area is ready to go. The main thing is to follow simple rules so that the installed network works properly and for as long as possible. To do this, you do not need to drive over such areas where pipes pass with heavy equipment. After all, the pipes will be strongly pressed down, from which they can be damaged. That is why it is better to carry out all construction work on your site before laying this drainage system. So we build a house first, and only then drainage. The fact is that it is easier to build it than to search for damage and repair it.
Drainage system on site
It should be noted that the drainage network is installed not only to drain excess water. Sometimes its installation is necessary to ensure the vital activity of trees and other plants growing on the site, which are negatively affected by excess moisture.
For such a system, the calculation can be done according to a simplified scheme. Average values are taken to determine the depth of the drains. Therefore, pipes can run at a depth of 60-150 cm.
Just consider the following points:
- for fruit trees - 150 cm;
- for forest trees - 90 cm;
- for a flower bed, lawn or flower garden - 85-90 cm.
But on peat soil, the trenches should run lower. After all, such a soil is characterized by a very strong subsidence. Therefore, the pipes run at an elevation of one meter to 160 cm.
Nowadays, you can find a lot of information about drainage options depending on the type of soil and other features. For a full assessment of all the features of the upcoming work, it is necessary to study the materials. It is best, in addition to the information, to view the video below, which will help you learn about all the nuances of installing the drainage.
Video: installing drainage
But still, do not forget that each drainage system must fully correspond not only to your area, but also to your individual needs and capabilities.
Adequate and effective drainage of an area with high groundwater levels will help you remove excess water from the soil. At the same time, with your own hands, you can create a structure no worse than a purchased one. So you can not only live comfortably there, but also engage in any agricultural work and grow food in the garden. And in soils that are overly saturated with water, this is simply impossible.
Not everyone was lucky enough to become the owner of a plot of land on a flat, sunlit and at the same time dry area - many are forced to be content with plots on soils with a high level of groundwater and a high risk of flooding. However, this is not a reason for sadness - you can get rid of this problem!
Features and purpose
Before understanding the features drainage ditch, we should dwell on the very concept of "drainage". So, drainage is the process of draining swampy soil and removing excess moisture from the soil. This term also denotes the device of a system of trenches, ditches and wells, which are designed to drain water. Why is this necessary?
Excess water in the ground creates many problems. Constant “squelching” underfoot and non-drying puddles are only the smallest of them. Other troubles are much more deplorable.
- Negative impact on planting. It is almost impossible to get a good harvest in conditions of high humidity, the roots of the plants rot, and the seedlings simply do not develop.
- The high ground waters exclude any possibility of arranging a basement or cellar under the house.
- The house itself, as well as additional outbuildings on the site, is in great danger, since during the period of active snow melting, the earth is filled with moisture and begins to swell. This creates additional pressure on the supporting structures and often causes deformation of the supports.
Arrangement of drainage is considered an excellent solution that will help prevent all of these problems. As a rule, private areas are protected with a drainage ditch in which a pipe is reinforced. This system creates good conditions to collect and discharge water to a lower zone.
It is quite possible to create protective structures in the country on your own, but it is necessary to do this before the start of the improvement work. Drainage ditch, pipe or well - these elements form the drainage system on the site.
Even before starting work on the arrangement of the site, it is important to determine the likelihood of flooding, as well as assess your own capabilities and choose a drainage system that best suits the terrain and budget capabilities.
There are several types of drainage ditches.
- Open drainage- this system is considered to be the simplest, it does not require serious earthwork, the only thing that is necessary is to dig several ditches throughout the site, as well as bring a storm pipe there. Such a system allows you to effectively remove excess irrigation and rainwater.
- Deep drainage- this option is more laborious, it is used in areas where groundwater is located close to the surface, as well as on clay soils with poor moisture absorption. The basis of the drainage structure here is a pipe, reinforced in a previously dug trench. The latter, in turn, leads to a special water collector or a larger collector pipe.
- Vertical drainage- such a system involves the arrangement of a network of several wells, which are mounted around the building, the moisture poured into them is pumped out by a pump. It is an efficient system, however, it requires careful engineering calculations and costly work.
Where is it needed and what are the requirements?
The drainage ditch is most often provided for in relatively small areas, this is due to the low degree of automation of work on its implementation, the need for regular repairs and a short service life. Ditches are practically not used for industrial purposes.
There are certain SNiPs that establish the standards and requirements for drainage ditches.
In accordance with them, it is strictly forbidden to withdraw the storm water trench to:
- reservoirs inhabited by living organisms;
- eroded ravines or unfortified ditches;
- flowing streams and rivers;
- water bodies on the banks of which there are family recreation areas;
- lowlands prone to waterlogging.
Installation of a drainage ditch on land plots is not allowed in cases where the height of the groundwater flow is less than 2 meters. Otherwise, wastewater can enter aquifers. For such areas, experts recommend equipping canals equipped with closed hatches.
All types of drainage systems are subject to the standards of SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. They specify the permissible tilt angles, maximum distances to residential buildings and other structures, as well as the optimal design options depending on the characteristics of the soil, terrain, as well as the required bandwidth ditches.
In accordance with them, the following requirements are distinguished.
- On flat terrain, the angle of inclination should not exceed 3-5% - this approximately corresponds to a difference in height of 3-5 cm every 10 meters.
- The drainage ditch should be arranged away from fences and load-bearing structures houses and outbuildings, otherwise there is a high probability of blurring their base. Therefore, the distance from the ditch to the erected structures must be at least 30 cm, and the walls of the drainage system must be compacted without fail so that water does not wash under the foundations.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantages of a drainage ditch are obvious - it is the ability to effectively remove excess moisture from the site, and therefore - reducing the risk of the following unpleasant phenomena:
- flooding of a land plot;
- waterlogging of the soil and the frequent formation of non-drying puddles;
- rotting of load-bearing wooden supports of building structures;
- death of plant roots;
- oppression of the growth of seedlings on the territory of the land plot;
- the formation of mold and the active reproduction of the fungus;
- excessive accumulation of dirt in the local area;
- the development of chronic bronchopulmonary diseases due to constantly high humidity.
A nice bonus is the possibility of self-arrangement of the ditch. This does not require any special equipment, every adult can take a shovel and dig a trench, and, of course, this is the lowest-budget way of drainage, since it does not require practically any financial costs.
But among the shortcomings, the following can be indicated:
- the ditch is less efficient in comparison with storm sewers;
- a drainage system of this type has a rather short period of use;
- the ditch requires regular maintenance and periodic compaction, as well as the cleaning and restoration of the embankment.
Many believe that the drainage ditch significantly degrades the landscape, however, experts assure that, if necessary, you can decorate the trench so that it will harmoniously fit into the overall design of the site.
How to do it yourself?
The owners of summer cottages and suburban areas are most often engaged in arranging a drainage ditch with their own hands.
- In order for the drainage system to be as efficient as possible, first mark the site, and then wait for the first heavy rain and see where the most water accumulates - it is from there that the water must be removed in the first place.
- The easiest way is to lay ditches if the land on the site has a natural slope, then the only thing that is needed is to dig a U-shaped hole along the fence. Although quite often a trench is dug in the shape of a herringbone, the "branches" of which are brought to different plots of land, and then brought together into a single "trunk".
- The depth of the ditch should be 70 cm, and the width should be about 40-50 cm. It should start above the level of the house in order to fully collect the runoff of melt and rainwater, and be removed from the site through the installed drainage pipes.
- The bottom of the trench is usually laid out with crushed stone, which is tamped tightly, and a perforated gutter pipe with a diameter of about 10 cm is laid on the gravel.
- At the final stage, the pipes are wrapped with a layer of geotextile and the trench slopes are reinforced.
If the site is devoid of a slope, then it is worth giving preference to other types of drainage system.
To prevent the trench from being washed away at the first heavy rain, it is necessary to strengthen it.
- Even before the start of work on the arrangement of the ditch, it is necessary to ensure the formation of a special sand and gravel layer along the edges of the trench, 7-10 cm will be enough, and at the end of all the work, you can plant its edges with ornamental shrubs and trees. In this case, the whole structure will become more attractive and stylish, and root system large plants will reliably strengthen the walls of the ditch.
- Quite often, site owners use stone to trim a trench for improvement appearance and strengthening the ditch. If the layout is done skillfully, then the drainage system, even the most unprepossessing, can be transformed and become the "highlight" of the site.
Poor growth of garden crops and trees, constant dirt on garden paths and seasonal flooding of cellars and basements indicate a high level of groundwater at the summer cottage. It is not worth putting up with these inconveniences, otherwise high humidity can turn into more significant problems - swelling of the blind area and paths, shrinkage of walls, or even destruction of the foundation. Nevertheless, there is no reason to rush to get rid of suburban property. It is not difficult to drain the area - it is enough to build an efficient drainage system. Drainage construction does not require any special skills, so you can easily do it yourself. As for knowledge, we will try to tell you about the secrets of construction and give important recommendations on the course of work.
A drainage system is necessary where the site is flooded even after a light rain
The question of whether a drainage system is needed in a suburban area, as a rule, does not require a long study of the situation and analysis of natural factors. Most often, the inconvenience arising from waterlogging of the soil appears after snowmelt or heavy rain. The beds are overgrown with sedge, paths and lawns are occupied by puddles for a long time, and basements and cellars suffer from dampness - these are the factors that indicate the need for drainage. Nevertheless, before investing time and money in the arrangement of a drainage system, you should make sure of its feasibility. Several conditions will help to do this, indicating the need to drain the soil.
If at least one of these factors is confirmed at your dacha, then the need for drainage can not be discussed. A high-quality drainage system will give a second life to cultivated plants, make the territory cleaner, protect the paths from deformations, and the foundation from destruction.
Varieties and arrangement of drainage systems
The problem of excessive soil moisture on the site can be solved by drainage systems of two types - surface and deep. The decision which one to use to drain your site directly depends on the reasons that lead to the flooding of the area.
Surface (open) rain drain
Drainage surface type is a system of storm water inlets designed to collect and remove rain and melt water outside the site, not allowing it to be absorbed into the ground. Such a drainage system works excellently on clay soils and can complement the traditional storm sewer... Water drainage is carried out into filtration wells or outside the site. In addition, the lion's share of precipitation simply evaporates.
Point drainage is very often combined with a linear drainage system
Depending on the design of drainage systems, surface drainage is divided into two types:
When arranging point drainage, the collection Wastewater carried out with the help of storm dampers, drainage drains, storm inlets and ladders. The places of their installation are door pits, drainage points of roof storm inlets, areas under watering taps and other areas that need local collection of water. Point catch basins are connected to underground pipes through which the wastewater enters the storm sewer collector.
Linear drainage system trays are covered with grates that prevent clogging
Linear drainage can be wall-mounted or remote from structures. It is a system of barred trays for collecting rainfall that did not fall into the point rainwater inlets. It is rational to use this method of dehumidification in such cases:
Road drainage is also referred to as linear drainage, which is performed in the form of a ditch parallel to the roadway for the movement of cars.
Arrangement of a deep drainage system is necessary where groundwater approaches the surface of the site closer than 2.5 meters. When building it, a large amount of earthwork is required, therefore, it is best to build such a drainage simultaneously with digging pits for the foundation of a house and outbuildings.
Prefabricated drain pipes and soil types on which they are recommended to be used
For the construction of deep drainage, perforated pipes (drains) are used, which are laid in the soil layer at an angle. The presence of holes allows the drains to collect excess moisture and transport it to a collection header, filtration well or drainage tunnel.
The slope of the drainage pipes must be at least 1%. For example, for a highway 20 m long, the height difference between the upper and lower points will be 20 cm.
Design features of deep drainage systems
Another common type of deep drainage is a reservoir or backfill system. It is made in the form of an underground channel, up to half filled with a filtering cushion made of rubble or chipped bricks. To prevent the absorption of the collected moisture, the bottom of the formation drains is sealed with a layer of clay, on top of which roll waterproofing is laid.
The simplest and most effective methods for draining a summer cottage
Since drainage at the summer cottage and directly around the buildings can be done different ways, we will focus on the simplest and least labor-intensive options.
How to reduce moisture levels without draining
Many factors affect bogging, therefore, in some cases, a summer cottage plot can be drained without drainage. If a special relief contributes to increased soil moisture, then it is quite simple to make the water flow off the site. For this, in some places the soil is removed, and in others it is poured, creating a small slope. If the selected soil is not enough, then it is brought in from outside the garden area. It is better to sprinkle the soil in the country with black soil or peat, and in order to make the soil lighter, add from 1/3 to 1/5 parts of sand to it.
A reservoir arranged at the lowest point of the site is an excellent way to utilize drainage water
If water accumulates on the site due to closely spaced layers of clay, and the area itself has a slight slope, then a small reservoir can be dug at the lowest point. It can be used as a natural reservoir for irrigating cultivated plants, turned into a fish pond, or used as a decorative element of landscape design. As a rule, due to the high level of groundwater, there is no need for additional waterproofing, but in some cases, a special PVC film for swimming pools. To prevent the surface of the artificial lake from blooming, aquatic plants are planted along its banks.
Planting moisture-loving plants is a great way to normalize soil moisture. For example, a common birch tree is a real pump that literally pumps water out of the ground. They do a good job with draining the territory of spirea, irga, hawthorn, dog rose, and, of course, willow and pussy willow. Planted in problem areas, as well as along paths, they will not only remove excess moisture, but make the landscape original and attractive.
How to make drainage around a country house or outbuildings
To protect the basement or basement from melt and rainwater, wall drainage is built around the dacha buildings. This drainage system is most effective during the off-season when the water table reaches its maximum value. The construction of the "reclamation" system is best carried out at the stage of foundation construction, however, if the decision to build it was made due to the appearance of water in the basement, it's okay - better late than never.
Constant flooding threatens to destroy the foundation
Drainage construction is carried out in stages.
Digging trenches and sealing the foundation
Drainage pipes are laid in a "cake" of rubble and geotextile
If it is not possible to purchase special perforated pipes, then they can be made from ordinary polymer PVC sewer pipes. To do this, drills are performed in their walls, the diameter of which should be slightly smaller than the size of individual grains of gravel or granulation.
Vertical inspection chambers allow you to monitor the condition of the drain and, if necessary, clean it
Drainage around the house can be done in two ways - close to the foundation and at a distance from it
There is no need to rush to arrange the blind area around the house - it is necessary to withstand the time for the soil to settle in the trench. For pouring concrete and laying paving slabs start only after the soil is finally compacted.
Video: construction of a low-budget deep drainage system with one well
Drainage of a summer cottage: the simplest method
A surface drainage system allows you to avoid unnecessary financial costs and build drainage structures on a large summer cottage. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture during showers or during snowmelt.
When arranging open drainage, earthworks are carried out in accordance with the instructions below.
Experienced builders determine the installation points for storm drains and collecting collectors by observing the flow of rain or melt water, planning the location of the channels in such a way as to optimally combine the individual streams into a common flow.
Preparation of drainage ditches
Further, they are engaged in, in fact, drainage. Depending on the degree of aesthetics, the requirements of landscape design or personal preferences, it can be tray or backfill. In the first case, the arrangement of the channels looks like this:
Laying trays will make the drainage system durable and aesthetic
In the second case, construction is carried out according to the following scheme:
For the arrangement of drainage, you can use the old, "old-fashioned" method - the construction of fascines. For this, branches of alder, willow or birch are harvested, which are tied in armfuls 15 cm thick so that thin twigs are on one side, and thick ones on the other. Bunches of branches are laid not on the ground, but on pegs pre-installed along the entire length of the trenches, tied like anti-tank "hedgehogs". The brushwood is placed with thick branches upwards and compacted along the edges with moss. If everything is done correctly, then you can count on the 20-year work of the reclamation system.
To protect the walls of the channels from collapse, rubble stone or sod is used. Trenches are decorated by constructing ridges with perennial moisture-loving plants, for example, irises, along their edges.
One of the ways to make the drainage channel more attractive is to plant ornamental plants.
Drainage of a summer cottage: the traditional way
No matter how simple and cheap an open drainage system is, it has one significant drawback - low aesthetics. Agree what to do landscape design on a site with a whole network of canals - not an easy task. In this case, it is better not to save money and build a durable and efficient deep drainage system.
The best scheme for laying drainage pipes is the herringbone. In it, the lateral highways converge to one central pipe, which is taken out into the sewer or outside the site.
Deep drainage system diagram
If a drainage system is needed not to protect the foundation, but in order to reduce soil moisture, then the depth of the trenches is chosen based on the recommended values:
For drainage, use special polymer pipes with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Ideally, their type and quantity is determined by a calculation that takes into account the moisture content of the soil, its type, amount of precipitation, etc. step 40-60 mm independently.
Indoor drainage trenches can be dug by hand or with earthmoving equipment
After the ditches have been dug, they begin the main part of the work.
You can fix the geotextile on the walls of the trench using fragments of bricks or pegs driven into the walls.
Observing the slopes, drain pipes are laid and connected into a single network.
Backfilling of perforated drainage pipes with rubble
It is not recommended to use crushed limestone for arranging drainage. Firstly, at a depth, it will be compressed and will not allow moisture to pass through, and secondly, its interaction with the soil can provoke the appearance of a salt marsh.
Video: construction of a closed drainage system at a summer cottage
Maintenance and cleaning of drainage in the country
Although a properly constructed deep or surface drainage system does not need frequent preventive measures, some work still cannot be avoided. The contents of the manholes should be checked periodically by removing soil particles with a pump to dirty water and pumps high pressure... When pumping out mud from a drainage well, a long pole is used, with which the bottom sediments are shaken. Full flushing is required when pipes are heavily silted up, as well as every 10–15 years of operation of the drainage system.
High pressure water systems are best for cleaning drain pipes
To free the pipeline from sand deposits, the pipeline must be accessible from both sides. Flushing is carried out with a strong stream of water, which is alternately directed from one side to the other of the pipe.
If you have to deal with stubborn deposits of dirt and clay, then you can use the traditional plumbing technique - cleaning the pipes with a long cable and a hard bristle brush. By combining mechanical action with flushing, perennial deposits on drainage pipes can be completely removed.
In case of siltation of the channels of surface systems, you can resort to cleaning them with saltpeter. To do this, the turf and the upper backfill are removed from the trenches, after which saltpeter is evenly sprinkled on the layer of crushed stone. Then the "pie" is spilled abundantly with water and the upper layers are put back in place. This method allows you to extend the performance of the system for more than one year, but you can only use it as a last resort - saltpeter is a source of nitrates, and its excess negatively affects the quality of the soil.
Video: how to flush a deep type drainage system
A high-quality drainage system will protect the foundation and basement country house from flooding, will add health and strength to green spaces. The cost of carrying out reclamation activities is not so high as to refuse them, especially since you can build drainage on the site with your own hands. Everything you need for this can be easily found in the retail network, and earthmoving equipment will help speed up the work.
Share with your friends!