Sliding wardrobes in the hallway do it yourself drawings. Sliding wardrobe for the hallway: self-assembly

As you know, in the modern market there are many furniture manufacturing firms that offer a wide range of products, for example, popular and necessary wardrobes. On the one hand, you can purchase such an option in any store, entrusting its assembly experienced craftsmen... On the other hand, a self-made item is much more valuable and proud for the owner.

Let it be spent maximum amount time and effort, but one cannot but agree that a do-it-yourself wardrobe will ideally meet the household needs of the owner of the house.

Determining the type

If you plan to install a cabinet in the hallway, it is important to take into account the fact that in many apartments it is small, rectangular in shape. Unlike swing doors conventional wardrobe, sliding doors of the compartment will provide space saving in the best possible way.

Maintaining free space is important in any room, not only in the corridor, but also in the bedroom, which should always remain a zone of comfortable rest and order. If the height, at the same time, is made up to the ceiling, the usually empty space will be used with maximum benefit.

In the corner zone of the living space, depending on the characteristics of its total area, an unusual and spacious radius wardrobe can be placed. Corner placement is beneficial in that the piece of furniture installed in this way will accommodate much more things than with the other option.

However, it is rather difficult to manufacture, so it is better for a novice master not to take on it, but to confine himself to a simple rectangular model.

A built-in wardrobe can be installed if there is a niche or storage room in the room. It will be functional, convenient and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, making a closet from a pantry yourself is much easier than making it completely: there are already walls, a ceiling and an interior space. The main task is to decide on the filling of such a cabinet, to correctly plan the dimensions, drawing and course of action.

Materials (edit)

The choice of materials should be carefully, first of all thinking about strength, reliability and durability.

Wood

If we are talking about wood, then it is not suitable for creating a built-in wardrobe, because the level of humidity in a niche or closet is much higher than in a room. Any tree will quickly begin to crack and lose its natural beauty. As a last resort, you can use it to create small components and decorative elements, but with the obligatory preprocessing water-polymer emulsion or drying oil.

Drywall

Recently, drywall is a very popular material. However, professional furniture assemblers do not recommend using it. This material is highly fragile and very heavy in weight.

In addition, it must be attached to some solid base.

Shelves made of drywall quickly begin to "sag" under the weight of things, crack and deform. You can create other pieces of furniture from it, but it is absolutely not suitable for the manufacture of a high-quality wardrobe.

Fiberboard, MDF and laminated chipboard

Best options- Fiberboard, MDF or laminated chipboard. It is these materials that have always been distinguished by their strength and reliability, it is easy and simple to work with them, and humidity and temperature drops do not affect them. A large selection in the markets and in stores of various colors of laminated chipboard will allow anyone to choose the desired color.

An important point: for the purpose of making cabinets, there is a certain standard for laminated chipboard sheets with a thickness of 16 mm.

Plywood

Plywood is equally versatile and durable. It can also be laminated, on sale you can find its varieties that are water-resistant and insensitive to high humidity, which is important when placing a wardrobe in a niche or a closet.

Plywood combines both strength and flexibility in processing, because it is made from soft wood species. It should be remembered that when screwing self-tapping screws into it, it can deform, but this will not happen if you use washer-shaped gaskets.

Furniture panels

The sliding wardrobe can also be made of furniture boards. First of all, they are famous for their visual appeal and low price. This material is based on natural wood species such as oak, alder, birch. When creating furniture, panels are usually combined with plywood in the following way: the frame and facade of the structure are made from them, and shelves and boxes are made of plywood.

Standard thickness - 2 cm.

From an old cabinet that has served its time, you can make elements that may be needed when creating a new one. Sometimes chipboard sheets in old furniture are found to be extremely durable: unlike many modern materials, it is impossible even to screw screws into them without first creating a special hole. In this case, old, but strong chipboard panels will ideally fit into the cabinet as solid shelves.

If the suitable material has already been selected, it remains to purchase ready-made sliding doors for the future cabinet. Of course, you can make them yourself, but this will cost much more than purchasing doors that are already ready for installation. Should be found good firm, engaged in the manufacture of sliding doors, and place an order there, indicating the dimensions of the opening and the number of panels.

In order for the sliding doors to serve as long as possible, it is imperative to purchase a self-adhesive seal. Its main purpose is not only to fasten profiles in grooves. If the seal is of good quality, it will prevent dust from entering, and the cabinet doors will move absolutely silently.

Description of drawings

Before starting the assembly of any piece of furniture, it is necessary to create a certain scheme in the form of a drawing. The dimensions should be carefully verified, with the obligatory indication of all parameters, both the external side and inside the structure, while always indicating the thickness of each partition.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to observe certain dimensional standards in advance: for example, it is recommended to leave the optimal distance between the shelves at 30-40 cm, and the depth of the drawer should be no more than 50-55 cm.

Before creating a drawing, you need to decide on the main characteristics that the future wardrobe will have:

• height, width and depth;
• the height of the mezzanines, if planned;
• how many doors, drawers and other departments will be in the closet;
• what kind of filling is planned: boxes, rungs, shelves, etc.

After that, a sketch of the future cabinet is drawn. If you have experience and the ability to draw, you can make a drawing yourself, just using a sheet of paper. There is also a simple solution for those who are not good at drawing: special computer programs, into which it will be enough just to enter certain data, and the computer will produce a ready-made full-fledged drawing. The quality and accuracy of such a drawing is so high that with its help you can safely start assembling the cabinet yourself.

Step-by-step instruction

Room measurements and calculation

First, using a tape measure, three horizontal dimensions of the niche are determined on the outside: above, in the middle and below. Then the same three measurements are taken along the back wall. This is necessary in order to understand what size the future shelves will have to cut out. Further, similar dimensions (in front and on the back wall of the niche) are removed vertically in height: left edge, middle and right edge.

This helps to understand what the overall size picture will be.

It is important to remember that measurement errors are quite common. It is due to the quality of building the house and leveling the walls. The dimensions with all errors should be written into the drawing in order to make the calculations as accurately as possible.

At this stage, you need to finally decide on the detailing of the cabinet. What and where will be located, how many sliding facades are planned to be installed, how many departments there are, will there be open corner shelves in the closet, is there a need for a backlit visor.

Since we are talking about a small cabinet, which is located in the hallway, you can immediately decide on what and where to put. Outdoor shoes can simply be placed on the floor in a niche, without using chipboard or other material shelves. Internal filling it is also advisable to think over the cabinet in advance: the number of compartments for clothes, drawers, shelves, bars for hangers.

All measurements should be carried out without fail taking into account the thickness of all materials used.

It is important not to forget to carefully measure the dimensions between the shelves. If the niche is curved, then the shelves will need to be made with an allowance in order to accurately fit the dimensions of the walls. The dimensions of each part should be painted, taking into account the plastic edge (PVC, usually 2 mm).

It is good if the installation takes place quickly, without unnecessary adjustments.

Sawing and fittings

With a strong desire, you can cut out the details yourself, but there is no need for this. It is better to give the finished drawing to the production workshop, where all the components for the cabinet will be made exactly according to the specified dimensions. Therefore, the drawing must be drawn up as accurately and correctly as possible, and at a proven reliable furniture factory, all the necessary elements for the upcoming assembly will be cut with high quality.

As for the accessories, there will be no problems with its acquisition now either: it is presented in a large assortment in large construction or specialized stores. Here is a rough list of what you might need when making a simple built-in cabinet:

• debell and self-tapping screws,
• spacers for soft installation of self-tapping screws,
• furniture corners (preferably metal),
• a hanger bar with rod holders (if the cabinet is small, one will be enough),
• hooks, clips for fastening shoe shelves.

Construction assembly and installation

Since this is not a cabinet, but a built-in wardrobe, the top and side panels of which replace the walls, you can start right away by determining the place for the shelves. Several marks are made on the wall with a pencil, and the shelves themselves are fastened using mounting corners.

It is better if they are metal, not plastic: the first and strong, and look very aesthetically pleasing from the outside. The corners are attached with debels and self-tapping screws.

If there are shelves in the cabinet, the length of which exceeds 800 mm, they need additional fastening, otherwise, over time, any material can bend under the weight of things. Therefore, along the back wall, the shelves should be reinforced with metal corners.

The hanger bar is attached to the wall using special round bar holders. Each of them has three holes, and fastening to the wall is carried out with debels and self-tapping screws.

At the bottom, you can install a mesh shoe rack. It is attached with the help of special hooks or clips, set to the desired level after preliminary marking with a pencil its location.

Then you need to fix the shelf along the side front walls with metal corners.

If there is a stretch ceiling in the room, in order to correctly combine such a ceiling and a wardrobe, you will need to put a mortgage between them in the form of a bar up to 100 mm wide.

Installation of doors with guides

As already noted, the ceiling is not always even and perfect. Therefore, the first task when installing the upper guide for sliding doors is to align and align it clearly horizontally. To do this, you will need to lay between the guide and the ceiling pads of various thicknesses.

You can make them from MDF. The resulting gap in the conclusion is closed with a frieze made of chipboard with a thickness of 8 mm.

Now you need to measure the height of the niche on the left and right in order to calculate the possible slope of the floor or ceiling, as well as the blockage of the walls. Having established the difference in size, you need to take the MDF gaskets again and put them between the guide and the ceiling. Only now, already through all the installed spacers, can the upper guide be finally fixed. Drill a hole in the ceiling, hammer in a dowel, then the guide is finally attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws.

When trying on a frieze, it is important to make allowances in order to fit all parts to size already during installation. Attach the frieze to the gap, mark the required lines with a pencil and cut along them. You can glue the frieze to the rail using double-sided tape. In order for the adhesive tape to adhere well, it is necessary to first degrease the glued surface with alcohol. Then stick vertical strips of adhesive tape on the surface, remove from it protective film and glue the frieze to the top rail.

The bottom rail for the cabinet doors is also attached with double-sided tape. This will ensure its smooth and soft movement - the doors will move silently, with minimal wear on the rollers. The doors themselves need to be inserted into the ready-to-use upper and lower guides and adjusted.

Detailed instructions for assembling and installing compartment doors can be seen in the following video.

To go beyond the standard rectangular shapes of your wardrobe, you can use your creative savvy when working with materials as soft and pliable as plywood. You can create a smooth and unusual shape for a shelf or other element of a piece of furniture by moistening a sheet of plywood with water and placing it on a special shape - a blank. Within 12-14 hours, the sheet will acquire the desired smooth outlines and will be ready for use.

In addition, there is the simplest and most uncomplicated way of attaching cabinet shelves using pieces of the most ordinary skirting board. The skirting board made of MDF is distinguished by increased strength, sometimes not inferior in reliability to metal fittings. In order for such shelf fasteners not to be too conspicuous, the plinth piece can be made one third shorter than the shelf depth, and its end can be cut obliquely.

The self-tapping screw farthest from the edge of the shelf, in this case, will have to be tightened from above, through the shelf board.

The use of stained glass technology for decoration

The door panels of the wardrobe can be decorated with stained glass. The cost of making such facade decorations is different, it directly depends on the degree of complexity of the technology used. In any case, inexpensive options for stained-glass cabinetry will also look great, but subject to their high-quality manufacture.

There are three main types of stained-glass windows that are most often used for decoration:

• Classic stained glass window. It will look best with a wooden or metal frame. Glasses can be with any pattern or different colors... The process of making such a stained-glass window is very labor-intensive, which provides it with both prestige and a rather high price.
• Tiffany. Its difference from the classic stained-glass window is that it is possible to use this option if there is no frame on the facade. In this case, the drawing is more intricate and original. Technically, it is no less complicated than the classic, but aesthetically very beautiful. Even its apparent fragility may not be considered a serious disadvantage compared to beauty.
• Filled type of stained glass. It is also called contour. One of the popular imitations of an expensive Tiffany made on a large glass canvas. Such a stained-glass window, due to its simpler manufacturing technique and low price, is the most popular among consumers. It is resistant to external damage and very practical, which allows it to be successfully used when decorating the most simple options furniture.

Sandblasted mirrors

If the front of the wardrobe is made in the form of a mirror coating or glass, you can apply a beautiful sandblasting pattern to it. This is an abrasive type of surface treatment using sand, sprayed using a special apparatus under a certain air pressure.

This technology provides any furniture with unique and realistic drawings that have volume and texture. Once upon a time, when there were no sandblasting machines, in the ancient Roman Empire, a similar glass processing was carried out by hand using a flat stone: they rubbed sea sand over the surface of the glass.

Sandblasted images are porous and unfortunately can easily get dirty. This is its only drawback that can be dealt with by protecting the surface of the drawing with varnish or a special solution, which includes polymer components.

Vinyl stickers

An excellent and easiest way to decorate the facade of a wardrobe, if there is no financial opportunity to order stained glass or sandblasting decoration. Usually, these stickers look like transparent wallpaper. In their manufacture, a special film is used. Thanks to its transparency and solid color pattern, you can easily match the sticker to the color of any cabinet.

Change the old bored sticker to a new one at any time - it can be easily removed without leaving marks on the mirror or glass.

If you are tired of the constant clutter and lack of storage space, you should think about a wardrobe. The most suitable place to install it is a bedroom or hallway. The article will focus on the wardrobe in the hallway, it is slightly different from the usual one.

As a rule, the width of the hallway is small, therefore, narrow furniture with a depth of 45-50 cm is installed in it, so as not to block the passage. Approximately 8 cm from the total depth can be safely subtracted - they will be eaten by the width of the sliding door rail. If the hallway allows, it is better to make the standard depth of the closet 60 cm, so that it is more convenient to store clothes on a hanger.

The second difference: content. If the main elements of filling the wardrobe in the bedroom are shelves and pull-out baskets for linen, then in the corridor you need to provide a place for outerwear, shoes, household goods and cleaning products.

View from the kitchen Glossy doors with a gray-beige pattern Section for outerwear and shoes (80 cm) Shelf for shoes Wardrobe section(160 cm)
Household. block (80 cm.) Bright wallpaper inside View from front door The width of the corridor turned out to be 150 cm View from the entrance

Filling the wardrobe in the hallway

What kind of content and accessories can a wardrobe have?

• • Shelves - can be made of the same chipboard, but there is no need to save on the edge: melamine will not last long.
  • Clothes tubes are used only in cabinets with a depth of more than 500 mm (for ease of use), and the hangers are located perpendicular to the rear wall.
  • For sliding wardrobes in the hallway (less than 500 mm), the use of end hangers (pull-out) will be relevant. They can be mounted parallel to the back wall, but they are inferior in spaciousness to standard clothing bars.

Sliding wardrobe 40 cm wide Narrow wardrobe compartment in the hallway Cross bars for clothes scheme facades filling

• Drawers. Do not buy cheap white guides for 30 rubles, they will not allow more than half of them to open normally. Better ball guides (usually they are not painted), they allow the drawers to be fully extended without the risk of tipping over. The overpayment will be no more than 100-150 rubles. for a couple.
• A shoe net is an essential element of every hallway. It can be multi-level and retractable.

The rest of the elements, as a rule, greatly increase the cost of filling, and they are rarely used.

Cabinet design

Example of filling a three-door wardrobe with an ironing board and a vacuum cleaner

Usually, when filling, the cabinet is divided into zones using partitions, along the width of the doors. In the classic version of filling, the main place is occupied by the dressing part with a bar for hangers, open and closed shelves for clothes and shoes. The rest of the space is occupied by a utility unit for storing an ironing board, vacuum cleaner and other things.

When designing, you can use special programs like "Basis-Wardrobe" (it is paid, but you can find other analogs, or look well on the Internet), and if you wish, you can actually do everything on paper.

Since a wall usually serves as one wall of a built-in cabinet, a minimum of details will be needed:

• one full-height side wall;
• 1-2 internal partitions to the full height of the cabinet, depending on the number of doors;
• a narrow part about 10 cm wide - to refine the remaining 3 sides of the opening (floor, ceiling and wall);
• other details for arranging shelves (almost always a mezzanine is made for rarely used things, and the rest are optional);

An example of a built-in wardrobe with one full-size wall. The fit of the sliding door and the wall is made out with a narrow strip of laminated chipboard.

The minimum distance from the inside of the wardrobe door to the beginning of the shelf in the Aristo and Laguna sliding systems is 9-10 cm.The Versailles sliding system allows you to make shelves end-to-end with respect to the upper rail, but it is recommended to retreat at least 1 cm.

• • If, after assembling the built-in wardrobe, there is a suspended or stretch ceiling in the plans, it is important to foresee in advance the structure for fastening the profiles: slightly lower the upper level of the doors and do not make them straight up to the ceiling. This is done using a homemade inverted U-shaped box, which is screwed to the ceiling (it will act as a base for the upper rail of the doors). The ceiling will already be attached to the end of the box.

Installation diagram of the built-in wardrobe and stretch ceiling

• If you need to leave the possibility of dismantling the cabinet without replacing the stretch ceiling (or it is already installed), it is best to make the cabinet almost to the level of the ceiling and close the top with a lid. To prevent dust from collecting at the top, the gap is closed with a curb.
• In the drawing, it is necessary to calculate the dimensions of each part and determine the places where the edge is applied and its thickness. There is information about this in detail in a separate article. In a nutshell: it is better to order edging immediately after cutting from the same company so that the factory PVC edge can be glued. All visible places are covered with PVC with an edge of 2 mm, and the rest - 0.4 mm. Those parts of the parts that will dock with others do not need to be covered.
• Another problem is curved walls. Imagine: ordered sawn chipboard, edging was done, home delivery was ordered and at the time of installation they suddenly discovered that a gap of a couple of centimeters remained at the back wall. If you saw off the finished sheet with a jigsaw, the situation is aggravated. Of course, some of the problems will help to solve the overhead PVC U-profile on the end, but it is better to check the evenness of the walls in advance and, if necessary, level them. It is almost impossible to cut the chipboard well under a curved wall at home, for this you will need at least a circular saw with guides.
• If it is necessary to cut the chipboard and the saw cut will open (the most vulnerable place for moisture from shoes, clothes, umbrellas), it is closed. At home, there are two options: stick the melamine edge with an iron or install an overhead U-profile.
• The inner part can be finished with nothing, but simply pre-cover the walls with high-quality paint.

Choice of materials

For the walls of sliding wardrobes, standard laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm is most often used. Of course, you can save money and use improvised materials, plywood and others, and then ennoble them: paint, paste over, trim with the remnants of the laminate, etc. But in such cases, the result will be appropriate.

To fill the blind doors of wardrobes, 10 mm thick laminated chipboard is taken.

The main material for the manufacture of furniture is laminated chipboard; many know about its harmful emissions of formaldehyde. Edging allows you to reduce the indicator, but, of course, does not completely remove the discharge.

Many domestic manufacturers neglect the environmental friendliness of laminated chipboard to reduce the cost of production, and some of the types can exceed the maximum established concentration up to 40 times. If we take chipboard from foreign manufacturers, for example, Egger with E1 class, then they can emit formaldehyde up to 8 times more than is recommended by GOST 10632-2007.

E1-class chipboards are no longer produced abroad, but only super-safe boards of the Super E class are used.

For the corridor and hallway, the E1 class is ideal, but it is more expensive than the domestic one (450-800 versus 350 rubles per square meter).

Try to use non-marking materials for doors. The safest option is a mirror, or a mirror with chipboard inserts. It is better not to use a sandblast drawing, as it is difficult to wash the stains on such glass.

Cabinet assembly

• • The assembly begins with the installation of the main walls and the edging of the opening around the perimeter with narrow strips of chipboard.

• • The frame is attached to the walls, ceiling, floor with dowels.
  • Parts are assembled between themselves using corners. If you want to make it beautifully, use plastic furniture corners that will cover the caps of the screws. If reliable results are key, small steel corners can be used.

• The best and modern way of attaching parts to each other is to use furniture bolts (Euro screws), but they require preliminary drilling of holes, which is difficult to do by eye. To create holes, use a special drill for confirmation (you can do without it, but you will have to use several drills of different diameters).
• If mounting on euro screws is planned, furniture dowels are used for additional rigidity and preliminary fixation of parts.
• Euro screws are tightened with a hexagon, plugs are inserted into the caps to match the color of the cabinet.
• When the base of the cabinet is ready, they begin to install the partitions, and then the shelves themselves.

Shelf attachment

Plastic and metal shelf support options

The shelves can be fixed in several ways, we will list them.

• Corners - simple, but ugly. This method is only good in extreme cases when other types of fastening are not suitable.
• Confirmation (Euro screws) - reliable, suitable for high loads, but they are used only in invisible places so as not to spoil the view with hats.
• Eccentrics are a good, but time-consuming method, and the screw head (plug) will be visible from the bottom of the shelves.
• Shelf supports are the best option, they are not visible from both sides.

Sliding doors

The most difficult element of a wardrobe is sliding doors. Here you cannot save on fittings, otherwise you will suffer from jamming and falling out of doors. In almost every city you can find domestic sliding systems from Aristo, Versailles, Polish Laguna, they are pretty good for their price. Attachment of a 4 mm mirror in profile with a silicone attachment

The sliding wardrobe in the hallway usually consists of two, less often of three doors. Each door is a leaf, enclosed on four sides in a frame of aluminum profiles. It does not have to be homogeneous, the parts are freely combined, a special profile is used for joining at any angle. Standard profiles are designed for chipboard thickness of 10 mm.

A mirror with a thickness of 4 mm can also be easily inserted into such profiles, having previously put on a silicone seal around the perimeter, which will add the missing 6 mm.

The main thing is to buy mirrors with a special elastic film that will keep the fragments in case of a strong impact.

You can order ready-made doors or assemble them yourself. There are no particular difficulties: you just need to put the material in a frame and tie it with screws.

With closed handle With open handle Sectional door Vertical and horizontal profiles

The assembly starts with the cross-sections. They are stuffed with a rubber mallet or through a wooden spacer.

After the horizontal profiles, vertical handles are stuffed and fastened with 5x30 or 6x35 mm self-tapping screws. The upper and lower rollers are installed before the final screed of the frame.

So that the fastening is not visible, holes for screws are made with drills of several diameters: the first large hole of 9 mm will freely let the cap inside the profile (if you look at it in section, you can see the compartment that will hide the cap). The second 5 mm hole is made already under the screw foot (see photo).

The self-tapping head will be hidden inside the profile The lower rollers are screwed together with the bolts

The horizontal and vertical profiles are different. In vertical profiles, you should end up with three holes: one at the top and bottom for assembly, and one at the bottom for attaching the lower rollers.

Top rail attachment

The door itself will ride along guides that are attached in the same plane from above and below. The upper rails will provide depth fixing of the doors, and the lower rails will open / close. The lower rollers are most often made of plastic, have spring cushioning and a screw for adjusting the door height. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.

Upper and lower guides in the Prestige system
Top and bottom guides in the Senator system

All aluminum profiles and guides are sawn off to size and screwed onto self-tapping screws. The bottom rail will need to be fitted with a door stopper. If desired, closers are installed in the upper guides, which themselves will close the door to the end.

To install the doors, first insert it into the far channel of the upper rail, and then insert it into the corresponding lower channel. Second doors are also installed.

Door installation

After installation, the lower rollers are adjusted along the vertical wall of the cabinet so that there are no gaps. A schlegel (buffer tape) is glued onto the vertical handles.

Assembling a kitchen and wardrobe are the most affordable options for testing your skills. Such cabinet furniture does not require the development of a special design or use. non-standard solutions... One has only to choose the finished material, color and assemble it correctly.

The built-in wardrobe is not for nothing that it is very popular. A sliding wardrobe not only has a large capacity, taking away a minimum of useful living space. He is able to perform other useful functions in the interior, and making it with your own hands is not so difficult.

What does coupe mean?

In the common parts of ancient European cities, the streets were very narrow, and the sidewalks were so narrow that sometimes it was impossible to open the carriage door. Because of this, somewhere in the 17th century. coupe carriages with sliding doors appeared. Legend attributes the invention of the coupe to French coachman Jeanto. But, most likely, this is just a legend - Zhanto is famous for invented the steering linkage, which made it possible to make sharp turns without the risk of overturning.

A compartment carriage is a rather playful concept: parts of the city far from the well-maintained quarters were visited mainly for secret dates. Some linguists derive the very word "coupe" from "couple" - a couple, fornication; marriage - "marriage", hence - known to gamblers marriage, a lady with a king of the same suit.

Then the sliding doors fit the railway workers for 1st class cars and sleeping ones. And in the furniture business, any wardrobe is considered with sliding doors... So the wardrobe is not necessarily built-in. A built-in wardrobe may not be a compartment.

Why is a wardrobe useful?

The main types of straight wardrobes are shown in the figure. It should be immediately noted that radius wardrobes, in which the front surface is curvilinear, require high furniture professionalism, and it is better not to tackle this one yourself. Therefore, let's leave the radius cabinets aside for now.

First of all, a wardrobe can be arranged in a niche, first pos. left... Making a wardrobe of this type yourself is not much more difficult than a stool. The costs are the minimum; after all, there are already three walls, a bottom and a tire. An inconvenient place turns into a useful one.

Second from left- in fact, the same cabinet in a niche, but a niche in the entire width of a blank wall. Thus it is possible in small apartment, practically without reducing the living space. The visible volume of the room can even be expanded by appropriately finishing or decorating the doors.

Next in order- in the opening interior partition... A common technique for arranging open-plan apartments in modern monolithic houses. It gives convenience and allows you to save a lot on expensive construction and plastering and finishing works. By the way, those described above are also economical - the inside of the cabinet can be made of chipboard, and the doors too; after all, they most often go for decor and decoration.

Wardrobe on the far right- already corpus, so the material for it is needed at a higher price. These are mainly used for zoning budget odnushki or, conversely, expensive penthouses without interior doors.

And, finally, a wardrobe, like a regular one, can be straight and angular, leaning against the wall or placed across it. The latter, as said, are used for zoning. They have two faces, and there is no rear at all. Often made double-sided, with doors to and fro, for easy access to content. The closet can also be turned into a wardrobe by replacing the sliding door.

We will take a closer look at the cabinet built into the niche; we will touch upon the rest in passing. It is the easiest way to make it yourself, and the savings in money are the greatest. In addition, most likely you will not need a special tool and sawing work requiring solid skill. Why? Let's get to that.

In general, the procedure for manufacturing a wardrobe is as follows:

1. Choice of material;
2. Determination of the degree, nature and method of placing the content;
3. Design of doors, with a choice of suspension method;
4. Choosing a way to hang the shelves;
5. Niche preparation;
6. Measurements and drawing;
7. Purchase of fittings, materials and sawing of blanks;
8. Assembly of the cabinet and installation of interior lighting;
9. External finishing.

Materials (edit)

The design of the cabinet must begin with the choice of material. The entire manufacturing process depends on it, and depending on the choice, it can fundamentally change.

Wood and lining

The tree is traditional, and nowadays also prestigious furniture material... But for a built-in wardrobe, wood is far from the most suitable. The humidity in the niche will definitely be higher than in the room, and the tree will warp; its decorative role in this case is minimal. If you still need a wooden cabinet, the wood for it should be straight-layered, without streaks, knots, cracks, seasoned and thoroughly soaked in hot drying oil or water-polymer emulsion.

Note: it is not at all necessary that the niche be damp. For wood warping, the difference in humidity from a blank wall to the doors and its sharp jumps when opening is important. Because of this, it is not recommended to put wooden cabinet cabinets in niches.

The lining for the cabinet in a niche, plastic or MDF, can be used without preliminary preparation, but another limitation appears - the frame of the door sashes. They have to be made of wood, with the same conditions and requirements as indicated above, plus - the meticulousness of manufacture. You also need to glue the lining boards together, but this is not a problem: there is a tongue, there is a groove for it, and it holds perfectly on the PVA. In general, a wardrobe made of lining can be recommended only for those cases when a sliding wardrobe in a niche should organically fit into the interior, as in Fig.

Drywall

Drywall is excellent, easy to work with finishing material with ample opportunities. Designers and amateur DIYers create real masterpieces from it. But as the basis for a cabinet of any design, gypsum board is completely unsuitable. A drywall cabinet can be made, see fig, but it is difficult. Let's figure out why.

Drywall is a rather heavy, fragile and at the same time not very durable material. It is intended solely for decoration and part supporting structure, even lightly loaded, cannot be. Simply put, drywall cannot hold anything on itself; on the contrary, it must be attached to something and something must hold it. A piece of drywall 400x400 mm, laid flat on the frame, sags noticeably by itself for six months. GKL sheets according to TU should not be placed vertically or leaned against the wall during storage.

That is, it is impossible to simply cut the gypsum board and fasten it together, like, say, a laminate (see next page). Each shelf must be a box-shaped spatial structure, which requires a complex frame (see the figure on the right). But the structure obtained as a result of assembly (see next figure on the left) with the correct geometry and proper strength will be far from aesthetic; we also need putty and decorative finish.

Note: for a cabinet frame made of gypsum plasterboard, wood is not doubly suitable - the cavities of the finished structure will pull moisture into themselves. Only standard C- and U profiles with standard fasteners are suitable for the frame.

Then - the doors. You can't make them out of gypsum board - the fasteners will break off simply under the weight of the sash. And in the doors is just the essence of the wardrobe. To make cabinet shelves with doors from drywall is a monkey's work and a decrease in useful volume. There are no sliding wardrobes from gypsum plasterboard, and a sliding wardrobe with shelves from gypsum plasterboard does not make sense.

In fact, a drywall cabinet is not furniture, but building structure, and is carried out according to construction, not furniture technology. However, it can also have outstanding aesthetic qualities and be the most significant object of interior design.

Laminate, MDF, fiberboard

These are the most suitable materials ... Making a cabinet from them can be elementary simple when minimum costs, see about sawing. These materials have everything beneficial features wood and at the same time insensitive to gradients and fluctuations in moisture because in the process of their manufacture, the microstructure of the tree is transformed into another. Just one remark: fiberboard needs to be taken medium or high density... The back wall of inexpensive cabinet cabinets is often made of low density fiberboard, similar to thick cardboard corrugated on one side, but it will soon lead to a niche.

Filling

The internal content of the cabinet determines its internal layout. There are four rules here:

• Raw - aside separately.
• Necessary and small - before the eyes.
• Dry - higher.
• Valuable - in boxes.

For example, it is wrong to place the section for outerwear in the middle - the dampness from it will go to the sides. If placed on the side, moisture from the clothes will go where it is much easier - out. In the bedroom, there is no need to arrange boxes or shelves for bedding immediately above the floor - dust and moisture are concentrated about 40 cm above its flooring. Well, and that a wallet or a smartphone in plain sight near the entrance should not be lying around, and so it is understandable.

The ultimate goal of content placement is to get the minimum shelf width; this will be needed to calculate the doors. The placement procedure is quite responsible, the convenience and durability of the cabinet largely depends on the successful layout.

Video: internal layout of the wardrobe

Doors

Doors are the salt of the wardrobe, its most complex and responsible element. There are three essential points:

1. The number and width of the flaps.
2. Suspension structure.
3. Sash stoppers.

Sash

At this stage, the task is to find the number of doors for a given width of the opening for the cabinet. The fewer the doors, the more convenient the cabinet is, but the likelihood of skewing and jamming is higher. The maximum permissible width is 600-700 mm; with a larger sash, they can walk tight simply because they are very heavy.

The overlap of the sliding wardrobe doors should be within 50-70 mm. If the overlap is too small, you will either have to open and close the doors carefully, or put up with the cracks. If there is too much overlap, the internal layout of the cabinet becomes difficult, especially if it is intended for a hallway or other cramped room.

At the same time, the width of the door must not exceed the width of the narrowest of the shelves, otherwise it may not be accessible. We also take into account the permissible overlap and subtract 40-50 mm for the side profiles; without them, the doors will break the wall. In general, the procedure is as follows: based on the maximum for the width of the door, we first determine the number of overlaps (one less than the doors) and check the resulting door width. It does not fit into the maximum - you need to make one more doors, and so on, until everything fits together.

Calculation example:

Opening width - 1.75 m; the narrowest shelf - 0,45 m Then we put two overlaps, this will give 100-140 mm minus to the opening, and we also put 50 mm on the sidewalls. Total - 150-190 mm, 0.15-0.19 m. 1.75 remains on the door - (0.15-0.19) = 1.6-1.56 m.Divide by 3, the width of the door comes out 0 , 53-0.52 m. A lot, what to do? Let's estimate with 3 overlaps (4 doors). Comes out at 37-39 cm per door. But making 4 doors is more difficult and more expensive (an extra set of fittings), so it makes sense to go back to the placement sketch and rearrange the inside so that the narrowest shelf comes out at 55 cm.

Suspension

Three systems of suspension of doors of wardrobes are widely known: double-rail with lower support, double-rail with upper support and monorail. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The choice is ultimately determined by the size, purpose of the cabinet and the financial capabilities of the customer / master.

Bottom rail

The most common system; its structure is schematically shown in Fig. on the right, and the design of the upper and lower rails is shown in Fig. left. Support - lower rollers, upper - prevent the sash from falling out. This system is also the most reliable: the sashes almost never jam or touch each other.

The lower rollers are heavily loaded, therefore, when self-assembly, certain rules must be observed, which is illustrated in Fig. below. The rollers are made of plastic, and when buying you need to look to get polypropylene; there are a lot of cheap polyethylene in the carriage of low quality metal on sale. If the rollers are propylene, then you don't need to look too closely at the metal; both steel and aluminum are equally reliable.

Installation of the flaps is simple: insert the top into the rail groove, lift it up to the stop, insert the bottom into the groove - you're done. However, the bottom support system has disadvantages:

• Sensitive to floor sinking, and the weight of the cabinet itself increases it. On the old wooden floor after a while, the doors can start to ride along the logs, or even fall out.
• Sensitive to dust and dirt. The loaded rail surface is located in the most dusty layer of air, the rollers roll in and tamp the dust, bumps form in the groove of the lower rail, after a while the doors begin to rumble unpleasantly, and the rail with rollers needs to be cleaned.

Top rail

Here the support has been moved to the upper rail, see fig. on right. Concrete ceiling does not sag, but is properly finished and does not get dusty, so the doors move quietly and smoothly. Fittings of this type are not complicated and not expensive, and the installation differs from the previous one only in that the sash must be tilted during installation. There are three drawbacks, but two of them are significant, so the suspension with the upper rail is not widely used:

1. A lower guide is definitely needed, without it the sashes will inevitably beat and rub each other.
2. In case of an accidental push or pressure on the sash, its rollers come out of the groove and the sash falls into the cabinet.
3. The top rail is not very rigid, so in some cases alignment of the ceiling is required at the location of the suspension.

Monorail

The peculiarity of the system is that in each carriage there are 2 pairs of rollers (see next figure), and the suspension of each sash goes in a separate guide. Paired rollers together with the profile of the guide to some extent fend off the wobbling of the doors. Thanks to this, with careful handling, you can dispense with the bottom rail and not touch the floor. But it is still impossible to push the flaps inward, while they will touch each other. Therefore, the lower guide rollers with a rail under them are also sold to the monorail.

A wardrobe with such a suspension is suitable, first of all, in a bedroom, where adults use it, and neatly. A durable and precisely adjustable suspension allows you to make wide sashes, and this, in turn, can be placed against a blank wall both a wardrobe and a dressing room. Rigid box rails make it possible in most cases to dispense with leveling the ceiling. There are four main disadvantages of the monorail:

• Sophisticated and expensive fittings.
• The need for decorative strip at the top, because a wide gap remains between the leaf and the rail.
• Complex installation: you must first insert the carriages with rollers into the rail, then attach the rail to the ceiling, and only then hang the door. An assistant is required to attach the leaves to the monorail.
• After the sash has been suspended, adjustment is required.

Stoppers

It is advisable that the cabinet doors do not roll back and forth on their own, and that they do not need to be carefully pushed into place. In a double-leaf cabinet, the task is solved by magnetic latches on the sides. But there is nowhere to put the latches on the middle flaps: the magnet does not casually hold. Therefore, the main type of wardrobe latches is mechanical.

Basically, two varieties are used: a recess in the support rail and a flat curly spring. If you make the cabinet yourself, then the recess will not work: such rails are factory-made in a standard size for typical cabinets.

The spring clip shown in the figure is easy to make yourself and install in place in a cut-to-size guide. The principle of its operation is simple: the antennae protrude slightly and the roller sinks between them. And when the roller rolls onto the edge of the spring, the edges of the antennae rest against the sides of the groove, which prevents the latch from sliding. To push the latch into place, you need to squeeze both antennae at once.

But all wardrobes latches have a common drawback. When opening / closing the door, the force is already acting in an inconsistent manner, and the resistance of the latch further enhances it. Most of the breakdowns of wardrobes occurs precisely because of the latches.

Therefore, the best stopper for sliding wardrobe doors is a carefully aligned support rail, high-quality fittings and careful use.

Shelf attachment

For a cabinet built into a niche, the methods of hanging shelves in cabinet furniture are poorly suited or not at all suitable - you cannot get to the sidewalls from the outside. In a niche, they either build a rigid frame, which is difficult and expensive, or use special adjustable suspension systems like the one shown in the figure. It's easier, but also expensive.

Meanwhile, the simplest and most cheap way fixing the shelves - into sections of a conventional plinth, floor or ceiling, see fig. on right. As you know, MDF skirting boards come in a huge range of sizes, textures and profiles. So that the shelf fasteners are not conspicuous, the plinth piece can be taken shorter than the shelf depth by a third, and its end can also be cut obliquely. In this case, the self-tapping screw farthest from the edge of the shelf must be screwed in from above through the shelf board.

Note: the upper and lower partitions in the cabinet can be fixed to the floor and ceiling in the same way, for reliability without shortening the plinth pieces. Their ends, if you take ceiling plinth small size, completely cover the upper and lower rails, and together with the shelves, fixed in the same way, a very strong and rigid structure is formed. Which, in addition, will support the plank floor from sagging under the weight of the doors.

Niche

Professional furniture makers rarely and reluctantly undertake to manufacture built-in furniture locally - this is a tricky job, unprofitable. Custom built-in furniture is most often the same cabinet furniture that is brought and assembled in a niche. And here the home-builder has a great opportunity to simplify and reduce the cost of his wardrobe, making it at the same time stronger and more spacious.

Diagonals

A necessary condition for the success of such an undertaking is that the opening of the niche should be rectangular, and the floor and ceiling in the place where the doors are installed should be horizontal. Here, you may have to devote a little time construction works, but their volume is small, and the complexity is low.

Note: for a monorail suspension, the usual horizontal construction of the ceiling is enough. The rail is aligned with spacers. But not by adjusting the flaps after! In an inclined track and vertically hanging sashes will slide sideways.

The floor and ceiling are checked by level, but what about rectangularity? The usual method in construction - a diagonal cord - is poorly suited. The fact is that furniture accuracy is higher than construction accuracy. In finishing work, 3 mm / 1 m is permissible. In furniture, if a seam with a length of 2 m diverges in length from a millimeter to two, this is already noticeable with the eye. And any cord is stretchable, and it is inconvenient to wield it in a vertical opening; here without a lot of experience and construction accuracy it will not work.

There is a way to measure the diagonals of the opening, not just with furniture - with machine-building accuracy, see fig. It's very simple: two slats with pointed ends. The angle at the top is less than 45 degrees, and preferably 20-30, if only the material of the rails is strong enough. The slats are fastened with rings made of "money" rubber bands, which are sold in any stationery store.

The measurement procedure is elementary simple:

1. We insert the device into the diagonal until the ends of the rails stop in the corners.
2. We make the risk with a pencil or a nail, as in pos. 1.
3. Insert into another diagonal, push / slide all the way.

By the divergence of the halves of the risks, the value of the inequality of the diagonals is immediately visible. The ultimate accuracy is half the thickness of the risks, i.e. 0.15-0.2 mm can be achieved. And to assemble the cabinet without problems, you need up to 3 mm in the opening of 2x2.5 m.

Note: if a place for a cabinet is being prepared, a zoning partition, standing perpendicular to the wall, will have to measure and fit 8 diagonals - under a pair in the face and rear, and two pairs inside between the upper and lower opposite corners. Along the width of the cabinet, two perpendiculars are beaten off from the wall, and instead of the missing sidewall, two slats or a piece of plywood are placed.

And now, what prevents you from using the walls of a niche, its floor and ceiling as the same for a cabinet? It is only necessary that they do not get dusty. And to achieve this is not at all difficult and not expensive:

• Remove old wallpaper or paint with a gel surface-active (surfactant) remover. It is non-toxic, odorless, and the old coating can be removed with a spatula after 10-40 minutes.
• The walls are impregnated with a water-polymer PVA emulsion 2-3 times, with an interval of a day, using a foam roller.
• We paint with acrylic enamel.

A niche prepared in this way does not get dusty for 10 years for sure, and the old skirting board does not need to be removed from the floor. It is not easy to damage durable acrylic enamel. And the costs are less than for a sheet of simple, non-laminated fiberboard for the back wall.

Note: small irregularities in the walls visible to the eye can be removed with an abrasive mesh on wooden block... It is better to do this after the first impregnation with PVA - there will be less dust.

Dimensions and drawing

Shelves and partitions with this manufacturing method, of course, will have to be cut in place. To do this, you will have to draw a view of the cabinet from the facade, approximately as shown in the figure. Then, on the ceiling, for any suspension method, beat off the line at the installation site of the guide. Then, from its ends along plumb lines, beat off the verticals on the walls, and from this imaginary plane measure the configuration of each shelf and partition in place. From the resulting depth of the shelves / partitions, you need to subtract the width of the support profile + 20 mm from the FRONT.

What's the point? The peculiarity of finishing works is such that the layer of plaster / primer is thicker towards the inner corners. This is because the tool has more freedom of movement in the middle of the wall or at the outer corner. The difference in the width of the room in the middle and between the corners rarely exceeds 10 mm and is not noticeable to the eye, but 2 mm is too much for furniture.

The configuration of the niche is, in general, a low truncated rectangular pyramid, overturned on its side. Accordingly, the shape of the shelves with partitions in the plan will be close to a trapezoid. But is it possible to cut them with the required precision? In our time, it is quite possible that you will not have to arrange carpentry at home. And a jigsaw with a circular is not needed. Templates and patterns - too.

Sawing and fittings

The fact is that now it is easier and cheaper to simply order sawing workpieces. Almost every town has furniture shop with a computer and a specialist who owns ACAD, the drawings would be accurate. Many furniture makers also acquire computer-controlled sawing robots - the cost of sawing by such a hard worker almost does not depend on the size and complexity of the part, and it pays off well for the always demanded non-standard small things.

Furniture makers buy material by wholesale prices, therefore, considering the total area, the cost of blanks is 20% or more less than when purchasing material on your own at retail. Many also give a discount on trimming (robotic - almost all); with them, after all, they will not wallow in the trash, but go into business.

Note: the thickness of the laminate or MDF for the cabinet is at least 16 mm. For doors on a monorail - at least 25 mm.

Also, a standard service for sawing is edging, i.e. sealing the ends of PVC boards to match. For a built-in wardrobe, it is clear that you only need to trim the front ends - it will come out cheaper. The thickness of the PVC edge can be from 0.2 to 2 mm. If you want a thick edge, in the drawing, its thickness must be subtracted from the width of the board.

Assembly, light, finishing

Techniques for assembling the cabinet, in fact, have already been described. It is only necessary to add about the suspension of the doors. The suspension systems described are not the only ones on the market. Technique develops, existing ones are improved, new ones appear. But for each more or less decent quality, a specification is necessarily given with an indication of the installation dimensions and tolerances, specifications for rails, etc.

Therefore, before ordering door sawing, take a closer look - what is for sale around, what will suit you best. The final size of the flaps depends on the method of suspension, and the required clearances are specified in the specification for the suspension.

About indoor lighting. Cabinets are made of combustible materials, so it is better to use low-power 12 V halogens for internal light. Power the cabinet luminaires from a plug-in AC / DC adapter with double-insulated wires. It is absolutely unacceptable to run 220 V wiring into the cabinet, and even constant wiring!

As for the decoration - mirrors, decorations, paintings and drawings - this is a matter of taste. One note: it is undesirable to hang glass mirrors on doors made of wood materials, it is too fragile and heavy. Better mirror acrylic. Or one-piece mirrored doors, but this is a separate conversation, and very expensive.

How Much Can You Benefit?

Now let's figure out if a homemade cabinet in a niche really costs a lot. And whether the savings will be worth the time and effort.

If you make a wardrobe in the hallway niche as described above, the materials will cost 5-8 thousand rubles, including the payment for sawing. Well, 10,000, if, as they say, from the belly. Time - 2-3 pairs of days off for an average home craftsman. And ordering a wardrobe in the same niche - less than 12,000 is hardly possible. Most likely, from 20,000. The term of execution is 2 weeks.

The savings on a wardrobe closet to the entire bedroom wall are even greater. Here, the typical regional ratio of home-made / custom-made cost is 13,000/32,000. But making this requires more serious skills.

But making a wardrobe-partition yourself is no longer so profitable: the advantages of a well-functioning technology also affect the pros. And the work is difficult - a skilled craftsman will have to tinker for a month, if he does not have to redo it yet. It will turn out to win no more than 2,000 on a wardrobe in a medium-sized odnushka.

(1 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

The theater starts from the coat rack, and the apartment starts from the closet in the hallway. This is the first thing that falls on the eye, and the first thing that is necessary. Functionality and aesthetics are what this furniture should combine. And if the landlord is fond of self-production things, he will have a great opportunity to show his skills from the doorway.

Materials and tools:
1. Furniture legs, the height of which reaches 50 mm.
2. Self-tapping screws 4x16.
3. Laminated particle board with a thickness of 16 mm.
4. Painted hardboard.
5. 0.5 mm malamine edging with adhesive backing.
6. The facade can be chosen as a customized, lightweight version. It should consist of an aluminum frame with a recess for three hinges. A full-length mirror is inserted into the frame. You can't do without a frame, as the cabinet will come out too heavy.
7. Iron.
8. The screwdriver is more powerful with a set of drills, bits. Among the bits there should be a hexagon for confirmations.
9. Confirmations 5x70 mm.
10. Hammer.
11. Right angle, tape measure.
12. Pencil.
13. Internal internal four-hinge hinges in the amount of 5 pieces. Two of them will fall on the shoe cabinet, the rest on the large door.
14. Extendable bar, length 400 mm. Will be mounted on the shelf at the bottom of the cabinet.
15. Hooks and special handles - chosen depending on the taste and needs of the master.

Operating procedure:
Most likely, without special training, it will not be possible to cut the chipboard with high quality, therefore it is recommended to contact a master who has a special machine for this purpose. You will need both a circular high-speed saw and a disc with victorious soldering, and this is unlikely to be found at home. You can also contact a construction supermarket. In total, you will need 2 sidewalls, an open part back, bottom and top of the structure, a top cover for a shoe cabinet, a shelf, a sidewall and a cabinet door, an open part shelf, a rear wall. The dimensions are taken to be the minimum in order to fit even in the hallway of the Khrushchev, but at the same time they are normal in order for clothes and shoes to fit into the closet. The master should be aware of what parameters are needed.

But you can already glue the finished parts with an edge yourself. To do this, you need a hot, but not hot, iron. It is applied neatly, but with confident movements. While the edge is warm, it is important to press it down, ironing the edges with a dry cloth - this is necessary for better contact... The surplus is cut off, the edges of the parts are sanded.

Now the cabinet is being assembled. This is completely easy to do for someone who has held tools in their hands at least once in their life.

The shelf in the cabinet must be placed approximately 30 mm higher than the open shelf. This procedure is important to avoid overlapping fasteners.

Details for confirmations are drilled in advance both into the end face of the part and into the plane. All ties are made for confirmations. The holes will need through holes 8 mm in diameter, and at the end of the parts - 5 mm, 60 mm deep. When marking, it is necessary to focus on critical details - facades, backing of the open part and sidewalls. In this case, it will be very difficult to make a mistake.

Hardboard is attached with self-tapping screws, but if there is little free time in stock, you can get by with nails. In any case, it is extremely important to observe the rectangularity of the structure as a whole.

Here is the hallway closet and ready! It will fit not only clothes, but also shoes, hats. This thing will perfectly save space and, made on your own, will fit into any interior.

Sometimes the assortment in stores is striking in its monotony. Many apartment owners know that it is very difficult to find furniture in the hallway. If the room is small, then the cabinets simply do not fit in it, or they fill up all the free space. But the owners of spacious hallways also find themselves in difficult situation- the presented models do not always meet the needs of the owners and often look ridiculous in a large room.

If you cannot choose the right wardrobe, then do not be upset and think about creating the perfect hallway furniture with your own hands. This approach will help you save money, as well as get a model that suits you in all its parameters.

Will a beginner be able to cope with such a task? home master"? Yes, desire and having everyone necessary tools and materials will lead you to a positive outcome. Of course, inexperienced craftsmen are better off sticking to the simplest models. But those who are not the first time making furniture can create a real work of art.

To make it easier for you to deal with complex work, we have prepared special instructions, drawings and diagrams.

How to make a hallway with your own hands?

First you need to decide on the model and dimensions. If we are talking about a tiny room, then do not overload it with furniture - use a standard hallway with a small compartment for outerwear, shoes and necessary things.

A spacious hallway can accommodate a spacious wardrobe. If the space allows, then such a wardrobe can easily turn into a real one - every woman's dream. The cost of implementing such complex project increase in proportion to the size and content of the cabinet.

You may also want to consider a compromise between roominess and appearance... So, corner hallways visually look much smaller. But at the same time, the great depth allows you to place a lot of things inside.

By choosing suitable model, you can start taking measurements and preparing calculations. Also, be sure you have all the tools that the wizards use.

Required materials and tools

Prepare in advance:

• saw or jigsaw,
• screwdriver,
• sandpaper
• construction knife,
• furniture screws,
• roulette,
• corners,
• loops.

You will also need material for the manufacture of the hallway... We recommend that you give preference for furniture board because it is made from natural ingredients without the use of synthetic resins. Such a shield is completely safe for the health of people living in the house. However, this material has a high cost.

More popular common laminated chipboard... It contains bonding resins, which can negatively affect the residents of the house if the edges of the laminated board are not covered with edging. But at the same time, the material has a relatively low price and excellent characteristics (it is easy to work with it).

Do-it-yourself standard hallway: instructions, diagrams and drawings

To create such a simple hallway, you will need the following materials:

• loops - 12 pcs,
• furniture boards - 7 pieces (dimensions 1600x400x18 mm),
• a piece of plywood 6 mm,
• grooved boards - 2 pcs (dimensions 2000x240x18 mm),
• furniture handles - 6 pcs,
• three-dimensional rail - 1 piece (dimensions 3000x40x12).

Recommend you start with pencil case... Its dimensions are 2000x400x400 mm. Corresponding strips are cut out of the piece of furniture, as well as the top cover with an overlap. Also you need two shelves... The assembly is pretty straightforward. The strips are arranged in parallel and fastened in the lid using self-tapping screws, shelves are also installed. For strength in the corners, the frame is fixed with corners cut from plywood.

Since two doors located one under the other are much lighter than one, this option is preferable. Two identical doors and several internal shelves (optional) must be cut out of the board. Hinge the doors. You can do with two for each door, but for reliability and proper weight distribution, we recommend using three.

The dimensions of one cabinet are 400x400x820, and the other is 820x400x490 mm. You can opt out of any of them without affecting the overall design.

To assemble the first curbstone you need 2 identical sides and an internal shelf that will hold the structure together from below. The upper part of the future pedestal narrows greatly, so the lid should be noticeably smaller than the main part. All elements are fastened with self-tapping screws. If you wish, you can use furniture dowels. Remember to pre-drill the holes and use glue.

A door for the bedside table is cut out of the shield; it must be fixed on two hinges. But for the drawer you need runners. We recommend that you purchase the required items at specialized store... You can make them yourself from plywood, but in this case, the box will stretch rather than roll out, making it much more difficult to use.

It is very easy to make the second pedestal... You only need two sides and 2 inner shelves that form the frame. The inner filling of this pedestal can be absolutely anything. All parts are attached to screws or dowels.

After that, the hallway needs to be assembled. Fasten all the elements together, and then prepare the boards. They should line up nicely from the edge of the pencil case to the edge of the cabinet, creating a base for the hanger. Maintain the same pitch while attaching the boards to the seamy side of the cabinets. To make the structure also strong in the upper part, fasten the boards with a strip. Place it at such a height that you can later attach hooks for the outerwear to the rail. If you wish, you can complement the structure with a shelf for hats.

Do not forget to open the hallway with varnish, attach handles and hooks.

Do-it-yourself sliding wardrobe: instructions, diagrams and drawings

It's much easier to do than it might seem. But first, you need to decide on the exact meaning of this term. "Sliding wardrobe" assumes a special design of doors that move along runners along the cabinet body. It can be either built-in or free-standing.

If you wish, you you can make a cabinet body from plasterboard and thus hide it in a false wall. But we will consider classic scheme manufacturing of a sliding wardrobe with side walls.

This model with dimensions 2020x625x2320 consists of several main parts.

• The side posts must be 2288x625 mm high (these calculations take into account the thickness of the sheets of the upper and lower planks - 32mm).
• Also large details are the lower and upper strips: 2020x625 mm.
• The middle uprights are inextricably linked to the garment bar. As a rule, it is mounted at a height of 1900 mm, therefore standard size for them - height 1900 mm, width 525 mm. The remaining 100 mm is a margin for the normal functioning of the sliding doors.

The filling of the cabinet can be any... It all depends on your desires and preferences, but remember that there must be a margin inside to accommodate the fastening systems.

All parts are best ordered from a carpentry shop. Even an experienced craftsman will not always be able to cut out the elements of the desired shape at home.

Then you can start assembling the cabinet... For installation, we recommend using not only screws and dowels, but also furniture corners. The rails are installed inside the cabinet in a specially designated area (those 100mm that we left when preparing the parts). After that, you can put the door in place and use the cabinet.

Do-it-yourself corner hallway: instructions, diagrams and drawings

Problem when creating corner hallway, is that careful calculations are required, the slightest mistake can cost a whole sheet of material... First you need to take measurements and check the walls. If the surface of the walls is curved, then you cannot do without a common frame. Otherwise, the walls themselves can serve as a base to which you can screw the shelves. The second option is more economical and simpler, but we will consider a separate cabinet, since perfectly flat walls are a rarity.

Choose the right drawing based on the size of the room, the length of the walls and the proximity of doorways. Consider the interior fittings of the cabinet. According to the selected dimensions, make six main body elements:

• lower and upper planks,
• rear walls(2 pcs),
• side walls (you can do without them, but the functionality of the cabinet will decrease).

Once you've assembled the frame, you can start installing the internal shelves, baskets and boxes, as well as hooks and rods.

The corner hallway can be equipped with roller doors, turning the structure into corner wardrobe... But budget hinged doors will also look good.

How to make a hallway with your own hands: video