Hipped roof. Do-it-yourself rafter system of a hipped roof 4-pitched roof

In our country, you can find buildings of the very different types... This also applies to the types of roofing of houses. Four pitched roof, as the most common type of upper part of buildings, enjoys well-deserved authority for its relative simplicity of design. Its construction does not require architectural knowledge. Therefore, the construction of such a structure on its own does not take much time, effort, and even does not require serious financial costs.

Complex design

Before starting work, you will need a sketch of the future structure. It is more rational to calculate the design of the roof together with the structure itself, when a system of its fastening is installed in the walls in advance.

Sketch appearance roofs must take into account the local characteristics of neighboring houses so that the future creation does not look pretentious. Moreover, it can have its own original design, thereby standing out against the background of similar buildings.

The simplest and cheapest option is a pitched roof with one "working" surface. This option is used for non-capital, utility rooms and annexes to the main building. For residential or presentable capital real estate, a lean-to building is unacceptable.

The design of such a building is best left in the hands of professional construction companies that will help create not only beautiful view buildings, but also provide for high quality and durability of the coating. Experts will help you decide on a roofing for such a roof, advise the best manufacturers at affordable prices, and also make sure that further installation is simple and quick.

Pitched roofs

The variety of modern buildings is amazing. At the same time, a separate type of roof is being designed for each type of building. They are considered the most practical and aesthetically pleasing.

Multi-pitched roof has two or more inclined surfaces, which is why an attic is formed with a fastening system for such a roof. It should be noted that attic in this case, it can be advantageously used as a useful living space in a dwelling.

There are a lot of multi-pitched roof structures, their choice depends on the desire and financial capabilities of the future owner. The most common are hipped roofs. They are always graceful, reliable and easy to repair.

Hip, hip and Danish

It is not surprising that it is these coatings for houses that have taken pride of place as a leader in our country. They not only look harmonious, but also have a long service life. A renovation work they can be carried out both on their own and using the services of qualified specialists and professional construction companies.

The main types of this type of structure:

  1. Shatrovaya.
  2. Hip.
  3. Semi-hip (Dutch or Danish).

A feature of the hipped roof is one upper corner above the center of the building. It is formed by converging sloped roof surfaces into it.

For hip roofs, two forms of inclined surfaces are inherent:

  • trapezoidal;
  • triangular.

The triangular surface is called the "hip". In this case, the connecting trapezoidal surfaces from above form a horizontal joint in the form of a line called a ridge. If the hip has a broken surface, for example, for vertical glazing (Danish version), or the trapezoidal sides of the roof have bevels (Dutch version), then these types of roofs are called semi-hip roofs.

The semi-hip roof is the perfect finishing touch to the decoration of the entire building.

Installation features

A four-pitched roof, like other types of roofs, is mounted on a wooden square or rectangle made of beams. It's called the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is rigidly attached to the upper part of the walls and fixed to them so as to prevent it from shifting or falling off along with the roof under the influence of winds.

The convergence of inclined surfaces at the hipped roof is provided by a vertical bar, a rack, the installation of which can constitute the Mauerlat structure. For light structures such as gazebos, the vertical bar is sometimes absent.

Convergence of trapezoids at the hip roof fixed on a ridge bar. This is the very top of the roof (not counting the chimney). Diagonal rafters connect the corners of the Mauerlat to the two edges of the ridge. The joints of the triangular and trapezoidal sides of the roof are fixed to them.

The longest vertically inclined beams, on which a soft and hard roof is laid, are called hip and trapezoidal rafters. In this case, the latter are divided into main and intermediate. The main ones fix both edges of the ridge, the intermediate ones are located between them. Shorter rafters are called shortened or "rafters". The former are mounted on the edges of the trapezoidal slopes, the latter on the hip.

The fixation of the Mauerlat, all types of rafters, and the ridge between each other is made with braces, puffs, struts, which are short beams. Sometimes "kerchiefs" are used, beads cut from wide planks. They are triangles or trapeziums in shape and are applied as additional fixation to inclined beams.

Fastening of all these parts of the roof structure is carried out with nails at least 200 mm long and with staples corresponding to this size. The thickness of the side and load-bearing beams has a diameter of 150 x 200 mm. For the rest, it is enough to have a diameter of 50 × 100 mm and 100 × 150 mm. The boards that carry the roof are 20 × 100 mm in diameter. The distance between the rafters under the slopes is in most cases 200 mm.

It is imperative to provide for eaves overhangs for the drain - the continuing parts of the sloping surfaces of the roof, protruding beyond the dimensions of the building itself.

Hip construction of the surface of the house

The four-pitched hip roof can have glazing on the hip or without it... Triangular shaped glazing is positioned directly below the rim of the ridge and provides satisfactory visibility in the attic in daytime conditions. In addition, the mounted vents allow you to periodically ventilate the attic. The glazing of the attic allows it to be designed in the form of an attic.

If Dutch or Danish semi-hip roofs are chosen, then the length of the small part of the hip should be 2.5-3 times less than the rest of the inclined surface.

With reference to the distribution of the wind rose at the end relative to the roof, it is advisable to build a Dutch type of half-hip. Then the window is mounted in a solid wall, and the hip top slope of the roof perceives the end wind loads better than with a built-in Danish window.

Do-it-yourself roof installation

Do-it-yourself hipped roof, quite a doable task. The uniqueness of this type of structure lies in the fact that all construction works you can easily do it yourself. However, experts recommend at least consulting with experts before starting work.

To start work, the following conditions are required:

  • spacious construction site with a resting place;
  • zone for lifting building materials to the construction site of the dome;
  • manual lifting mechanisms;
  • no sources of open fire on the leeward side.

After the sketch is ready, it is advisable to carry out a trial fitting at the place of the Mauerlat and the rack with the truss, rafters and struts. This will make it possible to assess the actual complexity of the work and in advance supplement the places of their installation with auxiliary means to ensure safety.

Process of creation

Installation of the Mauerlat is done first. Usually, it is fixed to the walls of the building with anchor bolts or on a pre-prepared reinforced belt with pins on which the Mauerlat is mounted. Waterproofing material is laid under it.

To ensure eaves overhangs, puffs are mounted on the Mauerlat. They can have a solid length and subsequently form the base of the floor, logs.

At the same time, the production of a truss is underway. Its fixation should be carried out in the mounted puffs. The truss and racks are fixed with struts. The verticality of the installation of the racks is checked with a plumb line and a level device.

The hip hip roof will require further fastening of the ridge to both racks... The ridge is reinforced with braces and kerchiefs. For a hipped four-slope structure, you will need a gusset around the perimeter of the rack.

After that, with a twine from the set top to the tightening edge, the required bevel angle of the ridge or stand with a gusset is checked, if necessary, it is adjusted manually. Further installation of beams begins with diagonal rafters. In them, seats are cut out for tightening and the corners are beveled under the ridge.

Main and hip rafters are assembled with maximum precision, ensuring the formation of a single slope plane with the side rafters. After a visual check, the rest of the rafters and rafters are mounted. Ensuring the strength of the Dutch or Danish hip is achieved by inclined supports, slope beams and kerchiefs.

Upon completion of the laying of all beams, the surface upholstery boards are installed. If envisaged interior decoration then it is produced first. A vapor barrier layer is laid on such a filing, then - insulation, on it - waterproofing. And only after that the fastening of the fixing horizontal boards is carried out. The resulting lattice fits soft roof or metal tiles.

Weir on roofs

The final stage of the installation of the roof is the equipment of its drainage system. Here, additional finishing of the entire structure is possible due to parts of the slopes or tightening beams protruding beyond the dimensions of the building.

The fastening of the drainage gutters is carried out on site, taking into account their inclination to the drainage vertical pipes. It is worth noting that such designs are extremely important for any type of home. So, spillways not only provide dryness to the foundation of the house, but also allow avoiding the formation of ice and freezing in the winter season.

Via easy installation spillways can not only protect your home from dampness, but also significantly increase its service life.

In the course of building your own home, you have to solve thousands of issues, giving preference to one or another design solutions and materials. Even if the work is done professional firm, the responsibility for this choice lies with the customer. And when a house is erected on its own, then not only the approval of the project, but also its implementation falls on the shoulders of the homeowner.

In the old days, knowledge about how to build a house was passed on by word of mouth from the old generation to the new. Moreover, every adult man put them into practice, creating a home for his family. Now, a person without building skills does not know how to build with his own hands. However, he can get this information on the Internet, from ready-made projects to video instructions.

Appearance and advantages

A hip roof, also called a hip roof, consists of 4 inclined planes, ramps and a rectangular base. Two of them have a trapezoidal shape, they are located on the sides, and the end slopes resemble triangles and are located where at gable roof there would be gables. Dormer or dormer windows, cuckoos, bay windows are placed on the slopes, which makes the appearance of such a roof even more interesting.

Those who are going to build a hipped roof with their own hands explain this choice by its advantages:


Project creation

Before starting construction, it is necessary to create its project and drawings in order to avoid mistakes in the process installation works... After the length and width of the house have been determined, the following calculations are performed:


The composition of the rafter system

To understand how to make a hipped roof, you need to find out the composition of its rafter system. This is a collection of all supporting elements that form the frame on which lies roofing material... It includes:


Frame installation

The four-pitched roof is erected quite simply, subject to availability the necessary tool and a couple of physically strong helpers. The work is performed in the following order:


Having studied the question of how to make a four-pitched roof of a house with your own hands, you can save a lot on wages for a hired team and be confident in the quality of the work performed. Although the structure is considered complex, its assembly is quite within the power of a person with initial building skills, theoretical knowledge and the desire to build a house on his own!

Video instruction

Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Despite the fact that they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple "box" a more interesting look. Secondly, because they are durable and reliable. And even if the rafter system of the hipped roof is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made by hand.

Types of hipped roofs

Gable roofs are the most expensive and difficult to construct. But despite this, they were and remain popular. And all due to the fact that they look more attractive than all other types of roofs, they have high mechanical strength, they resist well wind and snow loads. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks "more solid" than any other.

Even a simple "box" under a 4-pitched roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitched roofs: hip roof and hip roof. Hip is suitable for square buildings, hip - for rectangular. In the hipped roof, all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

General structure of the hipped roof

The classic hip roof has two trapezoidal ramps that converge on the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that adjoin the extreme points of the ridge beam.

Hip roof device in general terms

Despite the fact that there are four slopes in any case, the structure and calculation of these roofs is different. The assembly order is also different.

Half-hip

Hip roof is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several more varieties of it. For example, half-hip - Danish and Dutch.

Half-hip roofs - Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows the under-roof space to be used as living space. Of course, compared to a full-fledged second floor, the living space is less, but the construction costs are also not so great.

Slope angle and roof height

The angle of inclination of the hipped roof is determined based on the snow and wind loads in your area. The higher the snow loads, the higher the skate must be raised - so that the slope is steeper and snow does not linger in large volumes. In strong winds, on the contrary, the skate is lowered lower - in order to reduce the area of ​​the slopes and, consequently, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 heights of the first (or only) floor.

One of the options for the truss system of a half-hip roof

Practical considerations can be of two kinds. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as a living space, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If you are taller than 175 cm, the bar will have to be raised.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be taken into account.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can "work". If you have certain preferences for the type of roofing material, consider this factor as well. It depends on what height the rafter system of the hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Hip-type hipped roof rafter system

If a hipped roof is made, most often it is a hip roof. Let's talk about it first. The central part of the rafter system repeats one-to-one the gable roof system. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed "in place" - on the roof, two people are enough for such work. The roof trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground and then, ready-made, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at a height, but in order to raise and install the finished trusses, you need either a technique (crane) or a team of four or more people.

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Hip roof rafter system with layered rafters

The main differences between the rafter system of the hip roof are in those places where the rafters are shortened (rafter half-legs) and the hip is formed - triangular slopes. Here diagonal rafters are installed, which are also called overhead rafters. They rest on the outer or inner corners of the building and are longer than conventional rafter legs. Special attention should be paid to diagonal rafters, since they have a one and a half load (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, splicing them in width with the help of nails. Also to support diagonal rafter legs additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called truss block.

Hip roof rafter system: hip roof device

Another rafter system of a hip-type hipped roof is distinguished by the fact that the Mauerlat is laid along the perimeter of the building, and not only along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not only on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat- an element of the roofing system of the building. Represents a bar or log, laid on top along the perimeter outer wall... Serves as an extreme lower support for rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, the slant (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal rafters of the hip roof usually exceeds the standard length of lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced ​​and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we get a beam of the required length, we increase its bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand higher loads than a solid bar of the same section. And one more thing: spliced ​​beams for nesting rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper and you don't have to look for special material.

How to pair board rafters

If spliced ​​beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually secured by installing struts and / or trusses (struts).

  • If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one brace is sufficient, which rests against the top of the beam.
  • With a length of 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional rack or truss is installed. These props are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the rafter length.
  • When the length of the inclined rafter is more than 9 meters, you need a third, intermediate support - a rack that supports the middle of the run.

Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam supported by two adjacent external walls. A stand rests on this beam, supported by slopes on both sides (slopes are set if necessary).

Truss beams support diagonal rafters

A truss truss is usually not counted, but made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150 * 100 mm, racks - 100 * 100 mm, for mowing - 50 * 100 mm. It can be a timber of a suitable section or spliced ​​beams.

Supporting the rafter leg

Diagonal sling legs with the upper end rest on the ridge bar. The exact design of this assembly depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is only one run, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the rafter frame. If such a release is too large, then it is cut. But doing it shorter is not worth it - growing is much more difficult and more expensive. The diagonal slant legs will rest at this point.

Supporting unit for diagonal rafter legs with one ridge girder

The rafters are cut at the desired angle, butted on the console. Fastened with nails. The connection can be reinforced with metal cover plates.

If there are two ridge spans (they do if an attic-type dwelling is planned), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

  • If spliced ​​boards are used, a sprengel is needed, which rests on the outlets of the ridge girders. The diagonal rafters are trimmed and rest on the truss post.
  • If a timber is used, a sinker is installed in the place of support - a piece of board with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The board is fastened with nails to two girders, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

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With two ridge beams

The lower part of the rafter rafter legs is trimmed horizontally and attached to the Mauerlat or harness board. For greater reliability of the node, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).

Fastening the rafter to the Mauerlat

Fastening - with nails on both sides, if necessary, you can additionally fix it with wire twists or clamps.

How to fix the cuffs and half-legs

To the installed diagonal rafter legs, on the one hand, shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached, on the other - rafters - rafters that form a hip. They must be positioned in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the rafters (better - in the direction of decreasing the step).

Usually shortened rafters are trimmed and fastened with 2-3 nails on both sides. This attachment is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it "correctly", you need to make a "cut" under each rafter - a notch for no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are cut, set in the desired position, the desired contour is drawn on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). Along the resulting contour, a recess is cut into which a half-leg is inserted, after which it is fastened with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to make it. But the bearing capacity of such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is many times simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

Mounting methods

The optimal way of attaching handcuffs and half-legs to the support beam can be considered to be fastened to nails with the additional installation of cranial bars (see the figure above). For this, a bar with a section of 50 * 50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this version, the beam becomes I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity, and the bearing capacity increases.

How to attach the lower ends of the rafters

The method of fastening the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of rafter system of the hipped roof is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, which scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings for which spacer loads are contraindicated - wood, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They are in two parts. One is installed on the mortgage board, the second on the rafters. They are connected to each other movably - using a long slot or plate.

Sliding rafter mount

With such a device, when the load changes, the roof "wins back" - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no thrust loads, the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred to the walls vertically downward. Such fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that arise with a complex roof structure (with abutments in the form of the letter G or T).

Rigid fastening can be done in different ways - with a cutout for the Mauerlat / strapping board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually with nails, it can be strengthened with metal plates and corners.

Several options for attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat

The connection with the cutout is made if the hipped roof has an outlet - overhangs. Usually, the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they are grown - boards are added, which are nailed through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make overhangs as long as you want without wasting much on materials.

Danish half-hip roof

The rafter system of the Danish hipped roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, a support board with a thickness of at least 5 cm is packed. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the support board is up to you. But, the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will go. With a large area of ​​a half-hip, you will have to count the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

A hipped roof is considered to be a rather complex and material-intensive structure, which few homeowners undertake to build with their own hands. But if you decide on independent construction, first go through the preparatory path - study the theoretical materials, including those set forth in this publication. Then assemble a small scale model of the truss system in order to understand the nodes, the nuances of their manufacture and the calculation of the amount of timber. So, we propose to take the first step and consider ...

Design features

This type of roof structure shown in the photo is a regular ridge roof, but without vertical gables. Instead of them, 2 additional slopes are made on the sides of the building - hips with a different slope angle.

Reference. If all 4 planes are tilted at the same angle, then you get a different type of roof - hip roof. Since its slopes converge at one point in the form of a dome, the ridge is absent as such.

The rafter system of the hip roof consists of the following elements (shown in the diagram):

  • mauerlat, bed - a powerful strapping beam mounted on the upper plane of the walls along the perimeter of the building and internal partitions;
  • roof slopes are formed due to inclined beams, installed at a calculated interval, - rafter legs;
  • together with the stiffening elements - puffs, uprights and braces - the rafters form roof trusses;
  • ridge girder - a bar connecting the upper points of the trusses;
  • in some designs, the lower part of the rafter legs is lengthened by an additional part - the filly.

Hip rafters are installed along the line of convergence of the planes, resting on the corners of the building. Their slope coincides with the angle of the main slopes. But the end rafter legs, called rafters, form steeper or gentler slopes on the sides of the house.

In the construction of 4-pitched roofs, 2 types of trusses are used - hanging and layered. In the first, the lower belt (tightening) relies only on the external fences of a private house, therefore it is irrational to put them on too long spans due to the increased consumption of materials on the stiffeners. For the device of the hanging truss, see the drawing:

The advantage of layered structures is the ability to rely on capital interior partition and overlapping large spans without increasing material consumption. Roofing beginners should pay attention to these trusses, as they are more reliable and easier to install.

If it is planned to arrange a residential attic on the attic floor, then the slope angle of the main slopes increases, and the farm receives 2 supports in the form of racks that form the walls of the room. It is customary to put these parts on beds or floor beams. wooden house... Ceilings attic room are formed thanks to horizontal puffs connecting the rafters on top, as done in the diagram:

Hip roof device step by step

Like any serious structure, a hip roof is erected with your own hands in several stages:

  1. Creation of a project with the analysis of load-bearing structures.
  2. Logging and other roofing materials.
  3. Installation of the rafter system.
  4. Laying the coating with insulation (if necessary).

Design advice. So that you do not have to worry about the reliability of the building, it is strongly recommended to entrust the design work to engineers, regardless of financial costs. They will calculate all the parameters - the step of installing the rafters, their cross-section, the number of struts and puffs in accordance with the weather conditions in your area.

Above, as an example, a drawing of a four-pitched roof with layered trusses covering 2 spans of 4.5 m is shown. The length of the main rafter legs is 6 m, the height of the ridge is 4 m, the angle of inclination is 41 °. This structure can be taken as a basis if the width of the building does not exceed that indicated in the drawing (9 meters). Consider important point: the more the hips are tilted, the greater the load is experienced by the women and the central ridge knot where they rest. In this example, the hips are best positioned at an angle of 45-50 °.

The most difficult thing in the construction of hip roofs is correct installation knots for joining corner rafters with a Mauerlat and an upper chord of trusses in different designs. This is another reason to consult with the designers who develop the junction joints individually. So that you understand what is at stake, we present the drawings of the upper support unit, where the hip rafter leg is adjacent to the ridge.

Some designs do not provide for the manufacture and installation of a ridge run between trusses. Then the hip ribs are attached to a tightening and additional struts, as the drawing prescribes:

The lower support leg knot on the Mauerlat and the splicing of the rafters looks somewhat simpler, although in reality it requires careful sawing of the boards at various angles, which is reflected in the diagram.

For a visual acquaintance with a more complex system, where the hip is combined with the bay window, we suggest watching the training video:

Selection of lumber

Before making a hip roof truss system, you should choose a high-quality and dried wood. In terms of price - quality ratio the most suitable option- coniferous tree - spruce, larch or pine. Pronounced knotty, rot and traces of the vital activity of insects - pests are unacceptable.

We present the most "popular" sizes of lumber used for the phased construction of hip roofs:

  • main rafter - single board 50 x 200 mm or double 40 x 150 mm;
  • Mauerlat: minimum section - 100 x 150 mm, optimal - 20 x 20 cm;
  • wives - board 5 x 15 cm;
  • purlins - timber 50 x 150 or 50 x 200 mm;
  • struts, crossbars - a board with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm;
  • racks - a bar 5 x 10 cm.

A set of mounting plates and corners will also not be superfluous.

Note. If the design engineers calculate the roofing structures for you, they will also draw up a specification of all materials with dimensions.

Traditionally, boards with a thickness of 25-32 mm are used for the crate for laying corrugated board or metal tiles, and 5 x 5 cm bars are used for the counter-lattice.

Installation of a strapping bar on walls

Unlike gable roofs, where the Mauerlat is installed on the side walls, under the hips, the harness is made around the entire perimeter. The exception is frame, log and log houses, where the upper wall girder or the last tier of logs acts as a mauerlat. Then grooves are made in it, where the rafter legs are inserted, as shown in the photo.

On the walls of light cellular stone - aerated concrete and foam concrete - a reinforcing reinforced concrete belt is arranged before laying the piping. Mounting pins are embedded in it, onto which a strapping bar is subsequently put on. The step-by-step order of work looks like this:

  1. Installation of panel formwork, binding of the reinforcement cage with embedded parts and pouring the belt concrete mix M200.
  2. Waterproofing the concrete surface with roofing felt or bituminous primer.
  3. Installation of a bar and its fixation on the pins.

Mauerlat corner joints are made by cutting in half a tree. In the same way, the timber is built up in length if standard size 6 m is not enough. Also, horizontal struts are made at the corners, or iron brackets are driven in, which do not allow the bars to disperse under the load of the main and hip rafters.

Advice. Be sure to treat all wood parts with an antiseptic and fire retardant. One protects the wood from decay, and the second increases its fire resistance.

Assembling the rafter system

It is customary to install large roof trusses on site, because it will take twice as many workers to lift them from the ground. V wooden houses first of all, all the ceiling beams are installed, and temporary flooring is arranged along them. For the installation of a high ridge, scaffolding will also be needed.

The phased assembly of the hip roof construct is performed in the following order:

  1. As with the construction of a gable roof, the first step is to place central supports, where the ridge girder is attached.
  2. The installation of the main rafters is carried out, which are cut from the top and bottom at the desired angle. On the ridge, the opposite rafter legs are displayed in one plane and fastened with steel plates on self-tapping screws (yellow, not black). The beams are fixed to the Mauerlat with corners.
  3. After installing the main trusses, tighten them with ledgers and struts according to the drawings, using bolts for fastening.
  4. Install ribs - extreme hip rafters. Their connection with the ridge and strapping beam is carried out according to one of the schemes proposed above.
  5. Saw off and nail the beads to the frame. Each one is clipped under different angles defined by measuring at 4 points (along each edge of the board).
  6. If necessary, secure the filly to provide an overhang of 0.5 m, and hem the cornice with boards.

Advice. Since the ribs of the hips are long, they need to be extended and additional supports should be installed. Make the joint near the ridge, where the load on the roof is less, and mount the supports closer to the Mauerlat.

How the elements of the hip structure are attached in reality, see the following video:

Laying the topcoat

This final operation is carried out according to the traditional technology, which includes ventilation of the roof space and the installation of a waterproofing layer made of a diffusion membrane. The latter does not allow moisture to penetrate from the street into the attic, at the same time, the film freely passes water vapor outside. Difference from conventional coverings gable roofs one: along the fracture lines (on the edges of the hips) additional cover strips are placed.

The covering material is laid in the following order:

  1. The rafter system is completely covered with a diffusion membrane. The canvases are rolled horizontally with an overlap of at least 100 mm, starting from the bottom. The joints must be glued with tape.
  2. The film is nailed to the outer edges of the rafters through 5 x 5 cm counter-lattice bars, which provide ventilation under the metal tile or other material.
  3. Sheathing boards are nailed perpendicular to the direction of the rafter legs. The installation interval depends on the selected coating, and for soft tiles stuffing is done in full.
  4. Roofing material and all fittings are mounted on the ends of the roof, as well as around ventilation and chimneys.

Note. The counter-lattice beams nailed to the rafters should not become an obstacle to the ventilation air. Therefore, they are specially shortened to a length of 2-3 m and nailed with a gap of 5-10 cm between adjacent elements.

Warming of the hip roof is done both during the installation of the coating and after it, the main thing is to assemble the correct "pie" shown in the diagram. In the first case, the mineral wool is laid on top, under the waterproofing, and in the second - from the inside.

Conclusion

It must be understood that the advantages of a hip roof over a gable roof are few. Firstly, it is a beautiful architectural solution, and secondly, it reduces the wind load on the side facades of a private house. But for this the homeowner will have to pay with the increased consumption of timber and the complication of construction, and hence the time costs. Hence the advice: take your time with a decision and think carefully about the pros and cons. But if you have already undertaken, then make the roof with high quality, for yourself, without saving money on consultations with construction engineers.

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Many are attracted by the spectacular and non-standard look of the hipped roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a four-pitched roof correctly is constantly in the focus of attention of those who start building a roof or repair it. But I must admit, to build such a roof will have to make a little effort.

Everything in construction starts with planning necessary actions, therefore, they first give their sketches of how to make a hipped roof to paper.

Hipped roof project: calculation of all parameters

Before creating a project of such a roof, you need to determine its shape, take measurements and calculate all the necessary parameters. They begin construction directly, already having in their hands a drawing of the construction of the future roof, on which all the required information will be marked in details - the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, construction, length, step, the procedure for assembling the rafters, the location and number of additional supporting parts, and more.

The key to the success of the construction of a hipped roof is in an accurate and detailed plan, so this stage can most likely be considered one of the most important.

The calculation of a hipped roof can be carried out using special programs posted on the Internet. But if you have not forgotten the basics of school geometry, you can do it differently - draw a prototype of your future roof on paper and use the simplest geometric shapes to calculate rafters, beams, the amount of material to cover and much more.

We start from the angle of inclination of the hipped roof

The theoretical one first determines the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, taking into account the characteristics of the climate of this zone, especially since the height of the hipped roof also depends on its value. According to the rules, for areas with heavy rainfall, the slope is increased (accordingly, the consumption of all materials will also increase).

Having determined the slope, the next step mathematically deduce the height of the ridge, multiplying half the width of the span of the structure by the relative value (I take its value from special tables according to the angle of inclination). For example, for a 30 ° slope, the value of the relative value is 0.59, for a 25 ° - 0.47.


The hipped roof rafters are a system consisting of two types of rafter trusses: typical trusses with ramps connected in the ridge, and lateral triangular rafters resting against the ridge at the top. Thus, at the end points of the ridge, three rafters are joined: one central and two from the main slopes.

Quite simply, you can calculate the central location of the ridge of a hipped roof in the center: measure the length of the ridge, the length of the walls parallel to which it will be located, and calculate their difference. Dividing the difference in half, postpone the result obtained from the edges of the parallel walls.

It is important that there is a right angle between the skate and the rails to automatically ensure that the corner skates are correctly positioned.

location of the skate in the center

The calculation of these parameters of the hip roof can be made easier if you first mark the joints of the walls and rafters. The attachment points for the side rafter triangles can be determined by dividing the length of the transverse wall in half.

Installation of a hipped roof: precision and strength

Roof installation begins with the installation of rafter legs and trusses, according to preliminary calculations and marks. Farms are harvested according to a template. Various additional elements help to achieve the rigidity of each of them, as well as the entire structure as a whole: headstock, struts, crossbars, sprengels with a rack, racks.

How to make a hipped roof won't be too difficult if you follow finished project and observe the correct order of work performed.

Work begins with laying a paving or log Mauerlat structure (in the case of timber rafters) - a more common option in private construction. If you intend to use metal rafters, the Mauerlat is made of shaped metal material. The Mauerlat is securely anchored to the walls using appropriate anchors.

It is important that high-quality waterproofing is provided between the base and the wall.

If necessary, a transverse beam is also installed, which will become a support for the racks and, accordingly, the ridge girder attached to them. When installing the ridge, it is necessary to strictly maintain its "horizon" and height, therefore, when installing it, it is imperative to use a plumb bob and a rail. Racks for the ridge are fixed with jibs.

By installing diagonal rafters, the planes of the slopes of the future roof are formed. The main requirement in this case is the exact same length of the rafter rafters and a perfectly flat plane of each resulting slope. At the same time, the size of the overhang is also laid. Its average value is about half a meter.

In open areas, where a strong gusty crosswind is possible, it is advisable to increase the size of the overhang (up to 1 m).

The insertion of elements in complex nodes requires special attention. For example, three elements are joined to the end of the ridge at once: diagonal rafters (2 pcs.), Central rafters (2 pcs.) And a central (ordinary) hip rafter (1 pc.). To perform this knot, a special undercut (double bevel) is made on the ridge bar.

At a further stage, corner rafters are mounted strictly parallel to the ordinary rafters. At the same time, the beggars of the neighboring, main and hip, slopes should be docked with the rafter rafter in different places. For the joints of the "diagonals" with the rafters, a regular cut or support bar is used, which is sewn on both sides to the diagonal rafter.

Installation of a hipped roof also includes a lathing device for a roof covering. Whether it will be solid or sparse from boards, bars or poles depends on the chosen material for the roof.

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