Drain pit in a private house with your own hands. Do-it-yourself brick cesspool What cesspools are made of

The pit itself is two meters deep. Groundwater very quickly damages or washes out the structure of the pit, rendering the drain unusable.

What can you build from

For sealed pits use:

• Old plastic or metal containers. This is one of budget options construction.
• Concrete rings large diameter(the well is sealed!) or concrete solution. A timber formwork is pre-built, into which the solution is poured. This type of structure is completely sealed. Additionally, the walls and bottom can be treated with a sealant solution.
• Industrial polymer wells are quite an expensive solution to the problem with sewage. But its installation does not require additional labor costs.

Suitable for filter pits:

• Brick. With the help of such a building material, it is easy to achieve good water permeability of the walls. Drainage holes are usually made at the bottom of the pit, in addition to the backfill filter.
• Special concrete rings that already have drainage holes.
• Car tires- perhaps the most budgetary building material capable of ensuring high-quality absorption of liquid into the soil.
• Old metal or plastic containers are a universal way to build both a sealed and a filter well. In the latter case, holes are cut in the bottom or holes are drilled.

Work order

The construction of the sink includes the following works:

• Trenches and a foundation pit are being prepared. The size of the pit should be slightly larger than the main pit structure.
• Sand and gravel are laid out on the bottom, the pillow is compacted.
• Lay on top of the pillow concrete slab or perform a screed. This is not necessary for filter pits.
• Depending on the building material, the following is carried out: brickwork, installation of rings or ready-made containers.
• By means of rubber couplings it is connected sewer drain.
• A ceiling is installed on top (a concrete slab with an opening for a hatch or a board made of boards).
• A hatch with a cover is installed and a ventilation pipe is equipped.
• From above, the structure is covered with soil, and for side filling, you can use clay, sand or fine gravel.

Tools and building materials

To carry out the work you will need:

• bayonet and shovel;
• manual roller for compacting cushions:
• hacksaw for cutting pipes;
• puncher for punching technical holes in concrete (if a reinforced concrete structure is being built);
• sealant;
• cement (used when laying concrete rings);
• sand and crushed stone for the bottom cushion;
• plastic or metal container (if you plan to use this option);
• bricks for the construction of a brick well.

Construction work should be preceded by the preparation of a plan and calculation of the amount building materials... According to the exact data, the list of building materials and required tools is corrected. see our material.

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It is important to put a reliable overlap with a hole for pumping and ventilation. The overlap can be doubled and the interior can be filled with foam.

At the end of the work, it does not interfere with disguising the pit so that it does not spoil appearance around the house. To do this, you can cover this place with earth and decorate with plantings.

Use for draining a septic tank

This way of organizing the drainage of water from the house is very suitable for country houses and summer cottages. The construction of a septic tank is similar to a wastewater storage device and is carried out from almost the same materials. However, in its work, a special principle of settling and additional purification of water is used, which makes the accumulation of water in a septic tank more efficient than in a storage tank. In addition, the septic tank is more durable.

Unlike a simple drive, a septic tank consists of two or sometimes more sections. The most common two-chamber option. Waste water is discharged into the first section. Heavy particles and silt are deposited at the bottom and gradually absorbed into the soil. Lighter waste goes through a special pipe to the second section and is absorbed into the ground.

Required tools and accessories:

• the same as during the construction of the storage;
• if the area of ​​the site and access roads to it allows, then you can use special equipment: an excavator and a crane.

How to install a septic tank?

For the construction of a septic tank, you can use the same rings as for a sewage accumulator, only two sections (chambers) should be provided, which will be connected by a pipe. The construction technology is similar to the storage device technology. The only thing that you need to dig a hole for the rings with a margin, so that there are no difficulties when lowering the rings. In the first ring, waterproofing should be provided; for this, the bottom can be concreted. In the second ring, it is necessary to create water-penetrating conditions. You can cover it with pebbles or gravel.

To overflow wastewater, the rings are connected with pipes. The gap between the rings and the walls of the pit can be filled with previously dug soil.

Overlap is made from above. For this, concrete slabs with hatch holes can be used. Hatches can be cast iron or plastic. Ventilation should be provided in the second ring. For ventilation, you can mount a pipe that would be located m above ground level. As in the first case, it is better to mask the surface of the septic tank by covering it with earth and planting the plants.

Here are two ways to drain your country house and feel more comfortable using water and not wondering where it flows.

Unfortunately, there is not a centralized sewage system everywhere, and people are forced to equip street toilets on their plots.

It will not be difficult to go outside in the warm season, but in the cold season you do not want to go out into the cold once again.

And therefore, many people think about equipment at the site of the drain pit. Consider the topic of a drain pit in a private house in this article.

To ensure the arrangement of the drainage pit, it is better to hire professional workers, but you can equip it yourself.

Volume calculation

Drainage equipment is considered cheap and in a simple way in order to provide private homes.

To calculate the required volume of the drainage pit, it is necessary to multiply the number of people who will live in the house by 1.2 m3. Let's give an example: if your family has five people, then the volume of the drain hole will be at least two and a half meters in a cube.

Types and purpose

Drain pits are different types:

1. Fecal... A pit, the name of which speaks for itself, that is, this pit is designed to drain water from a toilet bowl or toilet, which is located on the site.
2. Waste... It is intended for, that is, draining from baths, showers, washbasins.
3. Combined. The pit is designed for the drainage of both fecal matter and household water.

In rural areas, it is better to equip two pits: fecal and waste.

How to equip a drain pit in a private house

Determine the dimensions

Depth

First, find out the level of groundwater in your area. You can check the level yourself, but you can check it using a well, if it is located nearby.

If the groundwater is at a depth of 6-8 meters, then a waste drainage pit must be made at a level of 2-2.5 meters.

Length Width

In the event that the groundwater is close to the surface, plastic container cannot be placed underground. In this case, a sealed concrete well is made and a plastic container is placed in it, but this way will cost more.

In order for the plastic pit to work well for a long time, the pit under it must be dug so that there is a distance of 30 cm from the walls to the container.

The container is installed strictly horizontally. It is important that the tank has a ventilation pipe, otherwise there will be a danger of an explosion in the tank, since the decomposition of organic waste releases methane gas.

The drain pit has its positive and negative qualities, but its presence brings suburban life and life in a private house to another level. For this reason, people more and more often make cesspools of different designs on their plots.

We wish you good luck in your endeavors!

If there is no centralized sewerage nearby, then as an effective solution to the problem, we suggest you learn how to make a cesspool with your own hands.

In any country house or dacha, where there is a toilet and a hot and cold water supply, there is a need to collect and drain sewage. And below we will consider the most important points when arranging a cesspool:

	Choosing a place for a cesspool in a private house.
	Construction of different types of cesspools with your own hands.
	What materials can be useful in the work.

Cesspool- the simplest sewerage option in a private house or in the country, which you can implement with your own hands.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you have entered from our site "Remontik".

Where should a cesspool be located in a private house?

First of all, you must choose a place for a cesspool, while being guided by the following requirements:

• the pit should be located in the territory that is adjacent to the cottage or private house;

• it is allowed to arrange a cesspool no closer than 10 m from the foundation of the house and other structures on the site and to the structures located in neighboring areas.

Attention! This requirement, first of all, is explained by the fact that with a close location of the cesspool, the foundations of buildings and structures located nearby may collapse and their flooding will occur:

• the distance from the cesspool to the fence is regulated and must be at least one meter;

• the depth in no case should be more than 3 meters (when choosing it, you must take into account the depth of the groundwater);

• the pit should be located at a certain distance from drinking wells (25 meters).

This distance directly depends on the type of soil on the land plot:

• With sandy loam and sandy soil, the cesspool should not be located closer than 50 meters from the well.
• With a predominance of clay soil - not less than 20 meters.
• With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands? Main types

To date, there are two options for arranging a cesspool:

• sealed cesspool;

• an ordinary cesspool that does not have a bottom (drainage).

In a drainage pit of this type, the wastewater goes into the ground, where it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. A striking example of such a cesspool would be an ordinary village toilet.

• With a daily large volume of wastewater (more than 1 m 3), a sealed pit will be needed, which must be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is directly related to the fact that the presence of the bottom in the cesspool, water goes into the ground and is cleaned by microorganisms that live in the soil. However, their capabilities are limited during processing.

With large volumes of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with their treatment. In this case, wastewater will contaminate the adjacent soil and it is possible that it will enter the water-bearing layers of the soil with further contamination of drinking water.

If it is necessary to utilize a large volume of wastewater, you can think of a septic tank with filtration fields.

How to make an ordinary cesspool with your own hands

A simple cesspool is very easy to do:

• A hole is dug 2 m wide, up to 2 m deep and 2.3-3 m long.

• The soil walls are laid or strengthened.

• A layer of gravel is laid at the bottom.

• A protective cover with a hatch is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

• simple and quick installation;
• low cost of operation and construction;
• simplicity and ease of use.

Some disadvantages of a drainage pit:

• unsuitable for the use of large volumes of wastewater;
• environmentally hazardous;
• spreads an unpleasant odor;
• possible unplanned overflow due to the ingress of rain or melt water;
• the water table may be below the sump level.

How to make a sealed cesspool with your own hands

A sealed storage tank (cesspool) is a sealed container where wastewater flows through pipes. Sewage water, as the container is filled, must be pumped out with a sewage machine.

The main advantages of a sealed pit:

• does not depend on the level of groundwater;
• environmentally friendly, since waste water does not enter environment;
• the location of the pit does not depend on the types of soil on the land plot.

Main disadvantages:

• high construction costs;
• monthly operating costs (you have to regularly call a sewer truck, on average 2-4 times a month);
• a smell is possible if the drive is made in the form of a well.

Calculation of the size of the cesspool

V pits = number of days x number of people x V people x 0.001, where:

Pit V - the working volume of the cesspool, calculated in cubic meters;

number of days - the frequency of calling the sewer truck to clean the pit;

V person - the norm of water for one person per day, measured in liters. Accepted 100-200 liters per person.

The house is home to a family of 5 people, and you are going to order a sewer truck once every two weeks. We accept V people - 150 liters per person per day.

As a result, the required volume of the drain pit:

V pits = 14x5x150x 0.001 = 10500 liters, or 10.5 m 3.

What materials can be used for a cesspool

Consider different variants and types of structures of cesspools that you can build with your own hands. It should be said right away that they are all divided into permanent and temporary.

1. Tires.

If you need a toilet cesspool when minimal costs, we recommend building it yourself using old car tires.

This is a quick and cheap option for building a drain pit. It has a simple design. First, a pit is prepared, where the tires are laid (one on top of the other). Crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit; if necessary, additional sealing of the tires with a clay lock can be done.

Advantages:

• simplicity, low cost and fast construction speed;
• durability;
• easily restored if necessary.

Disadvantages:

• tires are rotting;
• fast filling with irregular cleaning, as a result of which you will lose useful volume;
• with a heavy load on the pit, it negatively affects the environment.

1. Concrete rings.

We propose to consider the possibility of building a cesspool using concrete rings.

This is another good option for quickly building a cesspool. By its structure, it resembles a well. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other. If desired, the joints between the rings are sealed with a concrete screed.

According to the principle of operation, a pit made of concrete rings is more likely to be a sealed type of cesspools, therefore it is necessary to empty it in a timely manner. Although it is possible to build a septic tank from concrete rings.

Advantages:

• relatively low cost;
• durability;
• ease of construction of a protective cover with a hatch;
• the possibility of constructing a cesspool with your own hands.

Disadvantages:

• the need for regular emptying;
• high labor intensity of work;
• the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipe.

1. Brick.

A brick drain pit is a good and optimal solution if you need a drain pit for a bath or a toilet pit.

Advantages:

• simplicity in construction - any summer resident will be able to cope with brickwork;
• economic security - the contents of the pit imply regular removal by a sewer truck or can be cleaned right on the spot.

Disadvantages:

• periodically there is an unpleasant odor (you can cope with this problem by regularly cleaning the drive, and by using drugs that accelerate the decomposition of biological waste);
• short service life (about 15 years), as a result of degradation brickwork in unfavorable pit conditions;
• flooding (flooding can be excluded by regularly pumping out the liquid that collects in the reservoir).

How to make a cesspool out of a brick with your own hands: a description of the main stages

First of all, decide on where the cesspool will be located, taking into account compliance with all requirements and ease of use.

Then decide on the design. A brick cesspool, depending on its purpose, can have a square, round or rectangular masonry.

We calculate the volume, determine the dimensions and prepare the foundation pit.

In the case of a rectangular pit, we make the bottom slope towards the location of the hatch. We put a sand pillow 10-15 cm thick on the bottom, then fill it concrete mortar... You can also use a ready-made concrete slab of the required size. A cement mortar screed is made from above.

We carry out the laying of walls, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. It is best to lay the walls in half a brick in a checkerboard pattern. A quarter brick masonry is also permissible.

As soon as the walls are ready, you need to build a clay castle on the outside or cover them with bitumen mastic for a more reliable seal.

Plastering of the inner surface (if necessary). For plaster, you can use a mortar of sand and cement in a 2 to 1 ratio.

Installation of cover and hatch. When the base of the pit is ready, we install its overlap with a hatch. It should be no less than half a meter to overlap the pit from different sides.

In the role of overlap, it can use densely laid logs or reinforced concrete slabs... When arranging the overlap, it is necessary to provide a place for the hatch in advance, the diameter of which should be 0.7 m.

On top of the coating, waterproofing is made of polyethylene film or roofing material. We fill the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil, 40 cm thick.

Attention! In order to exclude the spread of odor from the pit, as well as its freezing, the hatch is made double. The top cover should be level with the ground and the other at the floor level. The space between the covers can be filled with heat-insulating material (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

• Barrel.

A drain pit from a barrel is an excellent option for arranging a sewage system with your own hands. It can provide natural wastewater treatment in case of small runoff volumes (up to 1 m 3).

• Take a 200 liter barrel made of non-corrosive material, make the side walls in it staggered with a drill or grinder. These will be the drain holes. They are recommended to be done in 10 cm increments.

• We prepare and attach a branch pipe to the bottom of the barrel for fixing the drain pipe. To ensure high sealing, use silicone sealants... The place of connection of the branch pipe is covered with bituminous mastic.

• We wrap the barrel from different sides with geotextile and fix it with a non-heating twine. This is necessary to ensure high-quality protection of the barrel from the penetration of foreign particles and soil into its capacity, while maintaining the efficiency of drainage.

Preparation of a pit for a barrel and installation of a sewerage system:

• dig a trench and put it there sewer pipes with a bias;

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to drain in a bath;
• sealed cesspool - for a large number drains;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and draining.

Which is better - a sealed cesspool or a drain sump?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, reinforce its walls with bricks, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is discharged, it does not have time to seep out and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are on sale, which can be immediately buried.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

The septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of discharge exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but ordering monthly pumping of the pit is expensive, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than a typical pit latrine. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A septic tank, made by hand, has whole line advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ a large area is not required to organize a filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be carried out every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with a septic tank alone;
- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;
– optional equipment- to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a place on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from a well and 30 m from a reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story structure, and 5 m - with a two-story structure. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it is not necessary to bury it completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, a main chamber is required at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle down a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug out. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and garden beds.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug out at the same time as the foundation pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight and sharp corners.
3. It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. A sand and gravel cushion is made on clay soil. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and tamped, and after that - the same amount of crushed stone with a fraction of 5 cm.Thus, for a septic tank with a depth of 2.5 m, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. The rest of the formwork is done on top of the pillow. The formwork is one-sided along the walls - the ground is the other side.



5. It is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. If it is located above the freezing of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of ordinary washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete is poured into the formwork mixed with crushed stone and stones of different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayonetted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated board for formwork. It is stacked so that it goes up to half of the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which the formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert the pipes. In the main chamber - a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum relief hole is made at the end of such a pipe. A ventilation pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is inserted into the second.





11. A ceiling with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured with the obligatory addition of stone and bayonetting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and it can be completely covered with earth, leaving only the technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is closed with polystyrene and covered with another lid.

The improved do-it-yourself sump is ready to go. After a while, the bottom of the main chamber is silted up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capacity of the pillow, and in the second chamber, the final purification of waste water takes place.

And how to make a simple cesspool is described step by step in the video: