A rough floor in a wooden house - an instruction for self-taught craftsmen. Do-it-yourself rough floor in a wooden house - instructions You can make a rough floor

The builders call the rough floor the base, on top of which the finishing is laid flooring... When it comes to concrete floors, under the arrangement of the subfloor means the installation of a dry or wet screed to level the surface. In wooden structures, this term is used by experts to designate the lower part of a two-tier floor.

Mount the subfloor in wooden house do it yourself will not be difficult if you have the skill to work on the installation of wooden structures. Overlappings in a wooden house are made in two layers, so that it is possible to lay heat-insulating material.

Insulated floors in a wooden house on the ground floor are an opportunity:

• reduce heat loss at home, thereby reducing heating costs in the cold season;
• exclude blowing through the cracks in the floor (drafts not only create discomfort, but are also dangerous to health).

A double floor with thermal insulation material in the middle of the structure is also mounted as a floor between the first floor and the attic (or the second floor, residential attic). Insulation prevents heat from escaping through the roof and at the same time serves as a sound insulator if the upper room is used as a living room or workshop.

Construction of the subfloor of the first floor

The system consists of the following elements:

1. Lags.
2. Skull bars. Boardwalk support, padded along the bottom edge of the log.
3. Sub-flooring. It is made of planks or sheet wood material.
4. Waterproofing layer. Protects heat insulator from moisture.
5. Insulation. It is mounted between the lags.
6. Vapor barrier layer. Prevents moisture penetration into the insulation.
7. Counter-rail. It is stuffed along logs or beams longitudinally to create a ventilation gap - this prevents rotting of the upper deck.
8. Flooring. It is assembled from curved boards or sheet material, a topcoat can be laid on top of it.

Before making a subfloor in a wooden house, ventilation of the space under the future lower flooring should be ensured. For this, there must be air vents in the base. If they are not there, you will have to drill large holes in the corners of the base of the building.

Ventilation will protect the wood from which the overlap is made from damage by fungus. The air is covered with a net so that rodents do not penetrate under the floor. If in winter period drifts are swept above the air vents, a ventilation pipe should be brought up from the underground space, the upper cut of which should be protected by an umbrella from the penetration of precipitation.

One more important condition the safety of the structure - high-quality processing of lumber with a composition for fire-biological protection. Processing is carried out after the timber, board or other element has been adjusted to size. This allows you to protect the ends of each element and prevent the appearance of foci of decay. Processing is carried out in two passes with a break for drying the first layer of the composition.

Also, the lower part should be treated with an antiseptic. wooden walls buildings with inside- all structures that will be hidden by the laid sub-floor.

Installation lag

Lags are load-bearing structural elements. They are installed with a step of 400-600 mm - this parameter depends on the design loads and the section of the element. As a lag, a bar with a section of 100x150 mm (at low loads), 150x150 mm (at medium loads), 150x200 mm (at high loads) is used.

If you have to use a small section beam at high loads (or a 50x150 mm board placed on the edge), the lag installation step is reduced to 300-400 mm.

The best option is to lay the ends of the lags on a base or grillage. But for this, the width of the free part of the foundation must be at least 120 mm. Strapping is in progress - boards of small thickness are laid on the free part of the grillage or basement over the waterproofing layer so that the wood does not come into contact with capillary moisture rising through the porous concrete.

The ends of the logs are fixed on the strapping boards using corners mounted on both sides of the timber. The logs cannot be rigidly fastened, since the tree changes its geometric dimensions with changes in temperature and humidity. There should be a gap of 20-30 mm between the end of the log and the wall for such an expansion. This gap is usually filled with an elastic insulation material such as mineral wool.

If the width of the free part of the foundation is less than 100 mm, the logs are cut into the wall of the house. At the end of each element, a recess is made for the missing centimeters, taking into account 20 mm for the expansion of the wood.

It is advisable to refuse a deep cut-in so as not to weaken the walls. In this case, next to the foundation, support columns are erected so that the main load that falls on the ends of the lag lies on them.

Lags need reliable support in the middle part if the length of the run exceeds 2-2.5 m. Brick posts act as supports. To reduce the number of posts, a thick beam is laid on the brick supports, on which all the logs will rest. The total height of the supporting structure (post + beam) must exactly match the height of the foundation with the plank strapping installed.

Each crossbeam requires at least three brick pillars to create a secure footing. The columns are placed along one line, for each a pit is prepared with a depth of 400 mm and a section of 200x200 mm. A layer of gravel of 100 mm is poured onto the bottom and rammed, then a layer of sand of 100 mm is rammed in the same way.

A reinforcing mesh in the form of a square 150x150 mm is installed on the prepared "pillow" on small props, it is poured concrete mix... After the concrete gains strength, the resulting foundation is waterproofed with roofing material and a column is erected from bricks fastened with mortar. Before laying a transverse beam or a lag (if the posts are mounted under the lags), a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the post.

Sub-flooring in a wooden house

Correctly installed lags form a horizontal plane - when performing, control the accuracy of the installation of each element with a level.

Cranial bars with a section of 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm are attached to the lower part of the lag. If it is possible to dissolve the boards, it is cheaper to buy boards with a section of 40x150 mm and get three suitable bars from each. They are fastened with nails and form decking tabs.

Subfloors are lower flooring that is laid on top of the cranial planks. For its installation, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards are used, but boards of small width are more often used. They are cut to size so that the elements fit in a continuous layer without gaps. This flooring should not be fastened.

Installation of a subfloor in a wooden house involves laying a waterproofing roll material. A special membrane or dense polyethylene film is used. The material should envelop all the logs, the joints of the panels are glued with reinforced tape, overlapping with a width of at least 120 mm. The edges of the material should go against the walls - the excess is subsequently cut off.

The next stage is the installation of thermal insulation between the logs. When choosing how to insulate your house, pay attention to the operational parameters of slab or roll materials. Mineral insulation and foamed polymer boards are popular. If the thickness of the heat insulator exceeds the height of the log, bars of suitable thickness are packed on them.

Mineral wool slabs are cut with a margin of a couple of centimeters in width and length and installed in a spacer. Rigid foam or polyurethane foam boards are cut to size, the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.

If a mineral wool insulation is chosen, a vapor barrier must be installed. It does not allow moisture to accumulate in the fibrous heat insulator, since this drastically reduces the effectiveness of insulation.

It is important to ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier around the perimeter and at the joints of the sheets. The material (dense plastic film or a special membrane) is attached to the logs with a stapler. Its edges can be fastened to the rolled edges of the waterproofing material using reinforced tape. The same tape is used to glue the joints of canvases laid with an overlap of 100-150 mm.

Laying the sub-floor continues by installing counter-rails along the joists. They are used to create a ventilation gap under the top deck. This will reduce the risk of fungal growth and development.

The upper deck of a wooden floor is assembled from high-quality boards or sheet material - plywood, wood-based panels. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, since the nails loosen over time and crawl out, the plank base begins to creak.

After installing the flooring, the subfloor is considered ready.

Conclusion

Step-by-step instructions help you figure out how to make a rough floor in a wooden house. Ideally, this issue is worked out at the stage of preparing a building project. For example, support beams passing through two adjacent rooms and an internal partition are designed in advance.

When developing a foundation project, it is worthwhile to provide for the optimal width of the grillage, taking into account the width of the building structures, so that in the future you do not have to cut the logs into the wall.

A competently mounted subfloor will give home comfort and warmth, increase the thermal efficiency of the house and help save money on its operation.

The subfloor is one of the main components of the floor structure as a whole, on top of which, after carrying out the necessary additional previous measures, the final finish chosen by the owner of the home is laid. This design can have a different structure and be made of different materials.

Regardless of the structure chosen, the subfloor will consist of several basic layers, information on which is given in the following table.

Table. Sub-floor structure

Layer	Description and functions
Underlying layer	Provides an even distribution of the loads created by the above-equipped structural elements. It is the lowest layer of the "pie". Traditionally, it is a floor slab or suitably prepared soil.
Leveling layer	The functions are clear from the name and boil down to leveling the irregularities of the previous layer. If necessary, at the stage of arranging the leveling layer, the required surface slope is set. For the arrangement, sand and gravel backfills, as well as a concrete screed are traditionally used.
Intermediate layer	It takes on the functions of a kind of layer connecting the lower and higher-equipped layers of the subfloor.
insulating layer	Consists of moisture, heat and sound insulating materials... The features of the choice and arrangement of such are determined by the level of the future functional load on the structure.

You will spend significantly less time and effort on arranging such a structure than on filling the screed. In addition, the laying of wooden supports does not require the use of water, which eliminates the likelihood of an increase in air humidity in the room being equipped and makes it possible to simultaneously engage in other planned finishing activities. The logs are directly laid on beams, a concrete base or other supports, which will be discussed later.

In this case, the function of supports for flooring from boards, plywood or OSB boards is taken over by a structure from longitudinal logs. The latter can be mounted on support posts or beams, as well as on a crown. If necessary, the lags can even be attached to concrete base... The specific option is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the building being equipped.

If the room has an impressive area, fixing the lag ends to the beams alone will not be enough to ensure the required structural strength. In this case, support posts are mounted between the walls to maintain the lag. The distance between additional supports is mainly determined by the section of the mounted elements. In most cases, it is enough to make columns in increments of up to 0.8 m. Otherwise, be guided by the specifics of your situation.

The posts are made of concrete or brick. At this point, also be guided by your preferences.

Operating procedure

The sequence of arranging the subfloor along the logs is as follows:

• horizontal marking of the surface is performed. Having determined the required level of installation of the floor, laces, fishing line or dense thread are pulled across the place of the future installation of the lag - such a markup will allow you to orient yourself in the process of arranging the lag and place them one level at a time. If you wish, you can not do this, but then you will have to check the horizontality of the supports at each stage of the work, spending more time on correcting inaccuracies;
• the surface is covered with a waterproofing material, for example, a 200 micron thick plastic wrap. Such a layer will provide protection of wooden logs from moisture from concrete, soil and other sources;
• the optimal step for installing the lag is determined. To do this, you need to know the expected level of load on the future structure. In residential areas, it is recommended to adhere to the 35-45 cm step. If the base cannot boast of perfect evenness, the logs will have to be attached to pre-equipped pads. Pieces of plywood are most commonly used as such;
• holes are drilled in the base to accommodate the dowels. Next, the dowels are driven in directly. In conclusion, it remains to simply screw the logs to the base using self-tapping screws.

If necessary, the space between the lags is filled with insulation. Expanded clay is most often used from backfills, mineral wool insulation is used from "monolithic" materials. When choosing a specific option, take into account the climatic features of your region and focus on an affordable budget.

The flooring can be made of plywood, chipboard, OSB or wood planks. The task is extremely simple: the elements of the rough flooring are laid perpendicular to the logs and nailed to them.

A very effective option that is rapidly gaining popularity among domestic developers. To carry out the work, plastic screw posts are used, which are characterized by high reliability and service life.

This technology allows you to quickly equip a rough floor, which will not creak in the future. At the same time, you do not have to spend time determining the required thickness of plywood linings and arranging them - the verticality of the legs can be easily adjusted to the required level. After installation, the logs will not come into contact with the base, which is also an additional advantage.

The procedure is as follows:

• in the places of the planned installation of screw posts (necessarily along the edges and along the length of the product with an average pitch of 0.5-0.8 m), holes are prepared in the logs;
• the lag fits in the right place, starting from one of the walls. A 1-centimeter gap must be left between the wall and the support;
• the support is attached to the base starting from the outer screw posts. This post has a hollow structure. To fix it, it is enough for the performer to drill a hole about 4.5 cm deep in it, drive in a dowel there, and then hammer in a nail or screw in a self-tapping screw.

At the end, the racks are twisted in level, and the work continues in accordance with the scheme for arranging the subfloor on standard logs, discussed earlier.

Adjustable plywood sub-floors

Quite effective and interesting option subfloor is a plywood base installed using special bushings equipped with an internal thread. The sleeves are inserted into pre-created holes in the plywood. For one sheet of standard size, 16 holes are usually sufficient. As a result, the plywood will, as it were, stand on its legs. At the same time, such a base is characterized by impressive indicators of durability - 1 m2 of subfloor can withstand a load of about 5000 kg.

A dry screed allows you to level all existing base defects. Moreover, the installation of such a subfloor can be performed at any desired time of the year.

Prefabricated subfloor with dry screed. one. reinforced concrete slab overlapping; 2. wooden log; 3. flooring made of chipboard, OSB or plywood; 4. vapor barrier (PVC film); 5. expanded clay sand; 6. Knauf gypsum fiber sheet or superfloor element. 7.Elastic pad

The procedure is as follows:

• the base is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material, fixed with adhesive tape. Do the vapor barrier with an overlap on the walls corresponding to the planned height of the future screed;
• between the guides, the composition selected for arranging the dry screed is poured. If the base has large differences, it makes sense to preliminarily set the rack beacons on the surface according to the level - this will guarantee the correctness and accuracy of the work. In addition, the presence of such beacons will greatly simplify the further fastening of the flooring. The thickness of the backfill layer is selected taking into account the specifics of a particular situation. On average, it is 30-50 mm;
• the backfill is leveled using a long rule or rail;
• on top of the backfill, the subfloor flooring is laid and fastened with self-tapping screws and glue. For arranging the flooring, sheets of drywall, chipboard, plywood sheets with moisture resistant properties, etc.

Reinforced concrete floors with prefabricated gypsum fiber sheets for residential and public buildings (Knauf)

Important nuances of the construction of a subfloor in a wooden house

In wooden houses, the subfloor is most often settled on the ground (otherwise, you can use suitable option from the above list). The requirements for the place of work are as follows:

• the room must be dry and well ventilated. For this, the foundation structure is supplemented with air vents. If the soil in the basement is damp, a waterproofing layer must be installed on top of it. Traditionally, clay is used for this - it is enough to fill the surface with material and carefully tamp it, sprinkling it with sand on top;
• the base must be waterproofed. When working with a foundation, roofing material is most often used. If you wish, you can use another material with a similar purpose.

Before starting work, treat all used wooden elements with a special antiseptic. It is recommended to apply the impregnation in a double layer, maintaining a 5-hour interval. Remember to wear personal protective equipment: gloves, respirator and goggles.

Subfloor boards can be installed in one of the following ways:

• over pre-installed H-beams. In this case, the flooring elements fit into the grooves of the supports;
• over the T-beams. Boards are laid on the shoulders of the supports;
• on roughing bars. The easiest to use, and therefore the most popular option. It is enough to simply nail the bars to the edges of the beams and lay boards on top of them.

If the work is carried out in non-residential premises, if you wish, you can replace the boards with a slab and save money.

It remains only to lay layers of hydro-, heat- and vapor-insulating material on top of the boards. After that, depending on the preferences of the owner, either the arrangement of the finishing flooring is performed, or the screed is poured.

The vapor barrier is attached over the lag

You are now familiar with the sequence of setting up a subfloor according to the most common and preferred methods. Choose the option that is most suitable for your case, and everything will definitely work out.

Happy work!

Video - Subfloor device

When building a new house or arranging an old one, an important part of the repair work is laying the sub-floor in accordance with the rules. In this article, we will consider the features of folding the base and the use of insulation and insulating materials.

Features of laying the subfloor on the logs

Most builders recommend equipping a sub-floor as additional insulation and a guarantee of strength and reliability. The styling features are not difficult, and therefore everyone can do all the work on their own. One disadvantage of this floor is the poor insulation of impact noise, which is indicated by the strong fastening of the elements. Experts do not recommend doing such an arrangement in toilets, saunas, baths or baths, because the high humidity of the room is not suitable for the boards.

The subfloor in a wooden house on logs is represented by bars that make up the frame for laying and leveling. In this variation, boards are used that are not planed, of the second and third grade, preferably from coniferous or soft deciduous. IN country houses you can use logs as a log, which equips a more durable and reliable design... At the beginning of work, all logs must be processed for leveling the material. In fact, the part of the beams that will be fastened to the planks must be leveled and trimmed, but it is almost impossible to achieve a high level.

The logs are placed in grooves, which are prepared at the beginning of construction, while the distance between the logs and the wall should be approximately 2 to 3 mm. This is due to the way the subfloor is laid in a wooden house, which will not creak during operation. Boards are treated with antiseptic agents or bitumen to avoid the penetration of pests, mold and mildew. The grooves are not the only fastening item, and therefore must have other supporting elements, for example, brick pillars.

Laying logs: installation

1. Between the logs, the distance should be 60 cm, when using boards of greater width or logs of significant diameter, the distance can increase to 1 meter.

2. After placing the logs, proceed to the next step. We use beams with a section of 50x50, which acts as a support, and fasten them with self-tapping screws on each side of the log.

3. It is recommended to carry out the fastening procedure carefully, since the structure may be fragile and fall apart during work. To do this, we fasten all fasteners carefully and securely in order to avoid harm to ourselves.

Some home-made builders purchase 15x40 boards, and then divide them into several parts, since they get 50x40 bars, which is a good alternative to the previous process.

Bonding bars and laying the subfloor: features of work

The peculiarity of fastening the bars to the logs should be calculated for additional space for the use of insulation materials. With an insulation thickness of 10 cm, and a board thickness of 2.5 cm, the distance between the bars and logs should be 12.5 cm. Of course, all the data given may be different depending on the material you are using.

The device of a rough floor in a wooden house is the next stage of work. There are some points that can complicate the installation process. For example, logs in their structure are uneven building material with various knots, depressions, so it will be difficult to finish boards of the same size and thickness. In this case, you will have to carefully process each element.

In the presence of beams, the work process is greatly simplified, especially when filing and dividing the material into boards. They are attached to bars that are attached to the logs from different sides. For fastening, you can use self-tapping screws, as well as nails.

Such a prep floor is rather unstable and cannot support a person's weight over 80 kg. With more weight, the boards can fall through, which will have unpleasant consequences for the workers. To avoid such incidents, it is recommended to put boards of greater thickness on the joists and then engage in the process of installing the subfloor in a wooden house.

Instructions for the construction of the lathing for the insulation insert

After laying the boards, you can start to work on floor insulation using different insulating materials. The hardware stores offer a wide selection of goods with different prices and features. Therefore, it is not difficult to choose insulation, for example, manufacturers exhibit mineral materials as well as fiberglass or basalt, plate styrenes and spray products.

If necessary, the insulation can be easily adjusted to the size of the repair area using construction knives. Some owners prefer to use ecological materials, which are expanded clay or slag. In wooden houses, insulating the subfloor with natural materials will preserve the ecology of the room and create more comfort.

Step-by-step instructions for installing insulation battens:

1. We put the logs in the grooves prepared for this. All elements must be fastened tightly. Leveling the floor is carried out using a level, which determines the entire plane of the base.

2. We lay the rough material on the logs following the previous recommendations.

3. Since wood absorbs moisture, the surface must be covered with a special film or rubber.

4. The material is stapled to the surface. It is important to ensure that the covered raw materials are not swollen or have depressions. Thus, the subfloor is waterproofed in a wooden house, which ensures that excess moisture does not get inside.

5. The next step is stuffing slats with a width of 5 cm, however, this parameter may vary depending on the type of insulation purchased. As in the front lathing, the slats should be laid in one direction horizontally or vertically. In a wooden house, such laying is especially important, since the schematic presentation of the boards will save the wood from decay.

6. Insulation materials are placed in the formed spaces. When using expanded clay, it is carefully poured into the openings, and a few centimeters are left from the surface. It is important that the sizes of the granules are different, because this will allow the base to be more compacted. Styrenes or mineral wool also not stacked to the very top, and this allows you to create a certain layer free of materials, which will serve to ventilate the floor and retain heat.

7. After that, a vapor barrier row is laid out on top of the bars, which is very important when arranging a warm floor.

In wooden houses, as a rule, a water floor heating system is used, and therefore there is a possibility of condensation. To avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier material, it perfectly absorbs all vapors, preventing them from damaging the base.

The final step is to lay the finished floor. To do this, use grooved boards or special plywood that is capable of absorbing moisture. This material is used for further finishing the floor with linoleum or laminate. All surfaces must be carefully sanded to avoid unevenness or imperfections in the floor.

The method of dry screed subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands

If there is a concrete floor in a wooden house, the owners want to re-equip it for special floors. Of course, there is a conversion method using a dry screed or a self-ventilated floor system. The first option is more affordable in construction. To equip the sub-floor with your own hands, it is recommended to use the following materials and tools:

• expanded clay;
• polyethylene film;
• plywood GVL or chipboard;
• damper tape;
• PVA glue;
• electric jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• marker, ruler and tape measure.

All work is carried out in stages in accordance with the requirements and the recommendations below.

1. A polyethylene film is laid on the concrete floor, which is used as waterproofing. The flooring on the wall should be about 10-15 cm, and between the joints of the material it is worth making an overlay of 20 cm. To ensure the reliability of fastening the elements, it is important to seal all the seams with tape.

2. The next element is to apply the damper tape around the entire perimeter. The height of the tape at the edges should be slightly more than the expanded clay layer as an insulating material.

3. Experts recommend using beacons when installing rough floors in a wooden house, the video of which can be viewed at the end of this article. They serve as a building level for the granules to be poured out and evenly positioned on the film. With the use of bars, the height can be increased or decreased to create the plane you need.

4. Further, expanded clay is poured and leveled, focusing on the installed beacons. It is not recommended to simultaneously pour out the insulation over the entire area of ​​the room. First, process one part and cover it with a sheet of plywood, and after the second, and so on. Such work is carried out in order to better move around the repair area, while the expanded clay layer must be at least 2 cm, otherwise the plywood will slide underfoot.

Laying materials on expanded clay

The process of laying sheets of plywood or GLV on expanded clay is a rather important stage, because when installing, you will immediately understand how reliably the work is done. To do this, it is important to walk along them, which makes you feel the subsidence of the material. For beginners, this situation may cause confusion, but the main check lies in the firm subsidence of the sheets, which should not be moved in the future.

It is important to remember that floor sheets have a large weight of about 15-17 kg, and the movement of such slabs on an expanded clay layer can cause its deformation. You can connect the material using self-tapping screws, but they should be located closer to each other, the approximate distance between them should be 10-12 cm. In order for all parts of the sheets to be securely fastened, it is recommended to glue them using PVA. The application process should take place in a wave-like manner, and it is important not to exaggerate with the layer thickness, because the parts are already connected with self-tapping screws.

As a result, all joints of plywood or GLV sheets must be filled with special mixtures. After drying, the surface is sanded and rubbed so that the entire base is even. To the question: how to make a subfloor in a wooden house using a dry screed in a bathroom or other room where high humidity is present, it is recommended to use waterproofing materials with different solutions with a cement component.

Wet method of screed subfloor

Screed is a more popular method than laying on logs, since the materials purchased are not as expensive or readily available. A rough floor in a wooden house, a photo of which shows the sequence of work in this technology.

The step-by-step instructions include the following steps:

1. The working surface is completely cleaned of debris and foreign objects.

2. Insulating materials are being laid, which ensure the penetration of moisture into the premises and contribute to the retention of heat.

3. With a step of two meters, beacons are attached, which act as a level and are in the form of steel slats. This will ensure that the base is even horizontally.

5. The last stage is the formation of a coating for the final floor using delicate materials. As a rule, mixtures are used that level the base and should have a thickness of 15 mm.

6. After drying, pour the sparse solution onto a cleaned and primed substrate and level it with a roller to get rid of all bubbles. The thickness of the subfloor on a wet screed must be up to 3 mm. Drying time of the surface is from several days to two weeks.

The subfloor is an important step in home improvement, which ensures the preservation of heat in the room in any weather conditions. DIY technology is a thorough work process that will require the builder to be attentive and follow the rules and steps of the instructive material.

Before you install the subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with all the constructive nuances. In what ways can they be laid depending on the architectural characteristics of the buildings? What installation requirements must be observed? Read on for more details.

Type of subfloors	Technical features and brief characteristics
	More often used as a base for finishing coatings: glued board, piece natural parquet, different kinds laminate, linoleum, soft flooring. The main requirement for such structures is a flat and solid base that can withstand the maximum design loads. For manufacturing, OSB boards, plywood, planed boards are used. To protect the structure from harmful effects moisture is used traditional or modern materials... Such floors are recommended for use during the construction of interfloor floors.
	The floors are installed under the joists on special cranial bars. Between the logs and the finished floor there is a space in which insulation can be laid. Small cuts and waste are used for manufacturing, which makes it possible to reduce financial losses.
	The most economical and reliable method for erecting subfloors. Taking into account the place of attachment, the bases can be insulated or under the final flooring. The distance between the bearing beams is selected depending on the performance characteristics of the finish coating.

When choosing a specific option, you need to take into account the purpose of the building, the number of storeys, the materials and technologies used.

General requirements for subfloors

Regardless of the type of structure, building codes and regulations require the following activities.

Fire protection. All fire retardant materials are divided into two groups according to their resistance to fire. The first group applies to wooden houses with stove heating. In the implementation there is a large assortment of solutions, impregnation is done with a pneumatic spray gun or paint brushes. A prerequisite is that the lumber must be dry. The number of layers is determined taking into account the purpose of the wood.

Protection against putrefactive processes and biological damage to wood. It is recommended to perform work with effective antiseptics, all of them reliably protect lumber from premature destruction due to high humidity. The disadvantage of such materials is the release of chemical compounds into the air. However, concentration is considered safe for residents. For those who do not want to risk their health, there is a completely safe way to protect lumber - impregnation with natural technical oils.

Important. All impregnations and treatments should be done before the lumber is laid, not after. Another nuance - great attention should be paid to the ends, they are most susceptible to moisture. Fresh dust and ends are subject to additional impregnation.

Mandatory presence of vents to ensure natural ventilation of wooden structures. No impregnation will save the wood if it is not constantly ventilated. The parameters of the vents are specified in SNiP 31-01-2003, the diameter and location of the holes depends on the area and height of the underground. Protection of the underground from the penetration of rodents, the holes are made of metal gratings, the geometry of the vents is not regulated.

Practical advice. Be sure to check the effectiveness of natural ventilation, if it is not, then the subfloors will not last the expected amount of time. For testing, you can use smoke or open fire. In the absence of visible air currents, immediate measures should be taken to improve the performance of natural ventilation.

Compliance with building codes guarantees long-term and safe operation of floor coverings. As an example, we will consider two methods for arranging sub-floors.

Sub-floors on load-bearing timber beams

The beams are laid on a foundation strip or strapping beam. There is no fundamental difference between the two methods, it all depends on the chosen method of building a house. A prerequisite is that there must be reliable waterproofing between wooden structures and concrete elements, most often two layers of roofing material are used. It is the cheapest material that provides reliable water protection. In addition, the timber must be treated with any antiseptics.

The beam should lie strictly in one plane, the installation is done using a level. Round logs should be cut off with an ax on both sides.

In the absence of experience with an ax, it is better to purchase ready-made material. But keep in mind that in terms of strength it will be inferior to hewn round timber, and in cost it significantly exceeds it. The subfloor is attached to the lower base of the beams, the flooring will be made of OSB. But if you wish, you can use any available materials, and not only wooden ones.

Step 1. Unscrew the beam fasteners. The bars are screwed to the harness with metal corners and long screws. The subfloor is installed only on pre-exposed beams; therefore, their dismantling is required.

Step 2. Carefully remove the beam from the seat and turn it face down.

Step 3. Attach the OSB strip to the bottom of the beam with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. The width of the strip should be 10-15 cm greater than the width of the flat area of ​​the beam.

Important. The length of the self-tapping screws must be ≈ 70% higher than the plate thickness, otherwise the fixation will not be reliable. This rule applies to all cases of fixing structures to each other.

While tightening the screws, press the drill with great force, the plate should not rise. Inexperienced builders, while screwing in, do not press the screws with sufficient force, the screw turns a little in the plate, due to this, a gap appears between it and the beam. This greatly degrades the parameters of the subfloor.

Using the same technology, attach the sheets to all beams.

Step 4. Install all the dismantled beams in place, secure them with metal squares and self-tapping screws. Check the position again, adjust if necessary with shims of different thickness. Never use lumber for lining, they will surely sag over time, which will disrupt the horizontal finish of the flooring. For linings, use durable, moisture-resistant Construction Materials... Another important condition is that the dimensions should be equal or larger than the areas of the timber, which will allow to evenly distribute the loads.

Step 5. Place pieces of OSB in prepared areas. During the preparation of sheets, there is no need to take exact dimensions, small gaps not only simplify the laying process, but also improve natural ventilation rough floor. Thus, by the way, you can save lumber.

Practical advice. Never walk on a subfloor, it is not designed for such a heavy weight. When laying the last row, walk on the beams. If you wish, you can foam the joints of sheets and beams, but this operation is not considered mandatory. We have already mentioned that the tree must be ventilated. As for the increase in heat losses, it is insignificant.

Step 6. Lay a vapor barrier, never use ordinary polyethylene film for this purpose high pressure... The fact is that it does not allow steam to pass through, as a result, water will always accumulate in the heat insulator, it is in the insulation layer that the condensation point is located. High humidity significantly lowers the heat saving performance of mineral wool and has a very negative effect on wooden structures. Moisture must be constantly removed from the insulation layer, and this can only be ensured by modern membranes.

Fix the vapor barrier to the beams with a stapler, the overlap of the layers is at least 10 cm, the joints should be carefully sealed with tape.

Step 7. Install a layer of thermal insulation. For these purposes, you can use rolled and pressed mineral wool or. It is advisable to use mineral wool. Why?

1. Minvata does not burn. Due to such characteristics of fire resistance, it is also used as a fire barrier.
2. The material is completely safe. Mineral wool is made from basalt, which is a natural glass of volcanic origin.
3. Basalt wool is not afraid of rodents, which is very important for wooden houses.

Pressed and rolled wadding is produced standard sizes, it is recommended to take them into account during the installation of the beams. The width of the cotton wool is 60 cm, the distance between the beams is recommended ≈ 55–58 cm. Due to these dimensions, a tight fit of the insulation to the structures is ensured, heat losses are reduced, and the microclimate in the room is improved. In addition, the sheets do not need to be cut, which speeds up work and reduces waste.

The thickness of the insulation is at least 10 cm. Do the second layer with an offset to overlap the joints. If a wooden house is built in a cold climatic zone, then the insulation layer must be at least 15 cm thick.

Step 8. Cover the thermal insulation with a waterproof membrane. The technology of its laying is no different from the algorithm for installing a vapor barrier membrane.

Step 9. Nail about 2 cm thick slats to the beams, they will function as a lag.

Practical advice. Professional builders strongly advise against laying the floor directly over the beams. Due to the bars, ventilation of the finish coating is provided, and it is needed regardless of the type of floor.

Further work depends on the technology you have chosen and the materials of the floor finish.

The device of rough floors on logs

Such options are used in wooden buildings built according to the most modern technologies... The floor will be made of moisture-resistant plywood 2 cm thick, the flooring method will be along the logs.

Step 1. Measure 120 cm from one side of the floor, this is the length of standard sheets. If the plywood is studded, then measurements must be taken very carefully, otherwise the studs will not enter the groove along one line. The use of studded plywood eliminates the appearance of drafts, which is very important for a high-quality installation of the finishing coating. For correct styling sheets use coated thread.

Using a nail with thread (left) and coated thread (right) for marking

If the house is very large and the length of the thread is not enough, then the rope should be used first. Drive nails into the outer lags, taking into account the dimensions of the plywood and pull the rope between them. Taking into account the length of the coated rope, drive one or more nails into the logs along the line taut rope... Now marks can be applied without fear, they will all be exactly located on one line.

Step 2. Lay out the first row of plywood on logs, while pre-marking the extra width.

Important. The thickness of the plywood is selected taking into account the distance between the joists and the maximum floor load. This means that the sheets can be not only two centimeters in thickness.

Step 3. Apply liquid nails to the logs. They have several advantages: they significantly speed up the construction process, the subfloor will never creak and guarantee sufficient fixing strength. In addition, liquid nails allow you to easily correct small errors. The glue should be applied in the middle of the log. If the edge of the sheet lies in the middle of the log, then the glue, respectively, is applied only to the narrow section of the element.

Step 4. Turn over a sheet of plywood and attach it with regular nails. According to the existing rules, the distance between them should be within ten centimeters along the perimeter of the building, and the length is 6-7 cm. The distance between the hardware along the log is 15 cm, inside the building is ≈30 cm.

Important. Plywood can expand from increased humidity, leave a gap of a few millimeters between the sheets. It is convenient to use nails as a template, insert them between the sheets, and remove them after fixing. There are situations when the edges of the sheet do not fall in the middle of the lag. In these cases, the material must be carefully trimmed in accordance with the above requirements.

If sheets fall on vents or other engineering Communication, then measure their size and exact location, then, using a hand-held electric circular saw, cut off the excess.

It is much easier and faster to hammer nails with a pneumatic hammer. How to quickly do it manually?

1. Put in left hand several nails, they are all mixed, caps and points are located on different sides.
2. With your right hand, grab the nails by the caps, carefully pull them out, turn them over to the desired position and place them with the rest. Now all the caps are on top.
3. Use your thumb to pry in the nails one at a time, grab and set the point on the plywood with your index and middle finger. Do not forget that you need to drive in nails at a slight angle to the veneer of the plywood, otherwise it may crack.
4. With the first light blow of the hammer, hammer in the nail, and with the second hard blow, hammer it in until it stops.

You can be sure that after a few minutes of training, the speed of nailing will not differ from that of a machine, and the quality will not suffer.

Step 5. Cut the last sheet to size and fasten it to the logs.

The rows of joints should be staggered; for this, the next one should start with half of the sheet or the remaining segment. Docking the grooved plywood requires considerable effort. To do this, use a piece of bar, apply it to the edge and strong blows hammer together the tenon and the groove. Apply blows alternately on each side, do not skew the sheets, remember about the damper gaps.

Step 6. Mark the edges of the sheets that protrude beyond the lag outline. It is better to use a coated thread, carefully cut off the excess along the line.

Important. Work very carefully with electrical woodworking tools. The injuries from them are complex and can cause disability. Tools must be in good working order and adjusted, and cutting attachments must be sharp. Never remove factory guards.

Step 7. Proceed with sealing the opposite edge of the floor. The work will go faster if you do not take the dimensions of each sheet, but attach the whole ones. Then you should measure the width of the protruding pieces and transfer the lines to the front surface. Cut off the excess at the marks with an electric saw.

For the final cladding of the subfloor, most of the previously obtained sections can be used, due to this, the estimated cost will be reduced wooden house.

How to avoid mistakes when building a subfloor

The main advice is not to try to simplify existing technologies yourself. Only an amateur thinks that he is smarter than everyone else and can do work faster and cheaper. All rules were developed taking into account many years of construction experience, each technological operation has its own specific purpose. An improperly laid sub-floor will cause sagging and squeaking.

1. Before starting work, check the position of the log. The distance between the lags should not exceed 58 cm, this will allow the insulation to be tightly laid.

   

2. There is no need to skimp on the dimensions of the beams. During the operation of the house, it becomes necessary to install heavy furniture, the likelihood of increased loads should be foreseen in advance.

   

3. In the place of masonry brick oven always reduce the distance between logs or beams. During construction, use only healthy sawn timber free of natural diseases and defects.
4. Boards for the manufacture of subfloors must have low rates relative humidity... If the subfloor is laid before the roof is erected, then the work should only be done in good weather. Waterlogged boards not only lose their original load-bearing characteristics faster, but also decrease in size during drying. As a result, the fastening is weakened, while walking, the floor sags and creaks. It is very difficult to fix problems, often you have to completely dismantle the coating.

   

5. If the subfloor is located between the floors of a wooden house, then the cranial bars should be stuffed along the beams. Stuffed across to reduce the height of the premises.

   

6. When installing membrane vapor or waterproofing, carefully read the instructions. The material indicates which side it should be towards the insulation. The fact is that steam can only come out in one direction, if the fabric is not laid correctly, then there will be no positive effect. As a result, the subfloor will be constantly damp, and the effectiveness of the thermal insulation will deteriorate markedly.

   

7. Do not save on vapor barrier, cover up and logs, attempts to cut the roll into small pieces always give a negative result. In terms of footage, the savings are scanty, and Negative consequences noticeable.

   

8. Always leave a ventilation gap between the subfloor and finish floor. At the same time, consider the location of the air outlet vents.

   

9. Practitioners recommend covering the ground under the floor of the first floor with plastic wrap or roofing felt. Due to this, the amount of evaporated moisture decreases, the operating conditions of the building are significantly improved.
10. It is recommended to make a warm sub-floor only under the living quarters of the first floor. There is nothing to save in unheated ones, an expensive complicated cake is not needed.

Unconditional compliance with building codes guarantees that unpleasant situations will not arise during the operation of wooden houses. Elimination of the consequences of violation of technology in all cases is much more expensive than compliance with the rules for the construction of subfloors.

A sub-floor, as a base, can be made in wooden and concrete houses... The preliminary floor should be perfectly level. Installation of such a coating is a laborious process, and it is best to trust the professionals.

Of course, you can make a rough floor in a wooden house with your own hands.

Before proceeding to the installation, we will analyze with you the types and purpose of subfloors.

Varieties of subfloors

Decking directly on the joists. In this case, we use chipboard, OSB, plywood or boards, which in turn are stacked on logs.

This type of subfloor is well suited for surfaces with low bearing characteristics, which allows you to distribute the load over the entire floor area. It is recommended to use coatings such as laminate, linoleum or parquet boards.

Decking directly under the joists. It is also called a double layer. The space from the log to the log is filled with waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier.

Sub-floor directly on the load-bearing beams. This floor option should be laid when designing a house.

In order to reduce the step between the beams from 1.2-1.5 m, as is usually accepted, to 0.6-1 m, then the beams will replace the logs. We discard the extra layer. In terms of all consumables, it turns out that we also save about 30%.

Plus we get an increase in the height of the room. But, in the case when you bought a ready-made house, do not be upset, the subfloor boards can be thrown along the diagonal of the beams, this will ensure the high strength of the floor surface.

Sub-floor types:

A wet base is a screed (concrete base), under the space on which the wooden floor will be installed.

Since the concrete base is not level, an additional leveling layer will be required. It is possible to make the finishing coat only after the rough base has completely dried, about 7-8 days.

Dry is a log flooring. They are laid on the ground covered with sand. When installing a lag, we use a ruler and a level. Unlike a concrete base, the floor on logs is difficult to bring to a perfectly level state.

Protection of the subfloor against moisture

All sub-floor components must be processed special means against mold and rot. Processing of all wooden elements is carried out after drying - this is very important point, the less moisture in the tree, the better and deeper it absorbs antiseptics.

Impregnation is done at least 2 times, do not forget about the cross sections of the wood, they must be processed. It is not recommended to first lay the boards, and then process them, because the ends will be open to mold and water vapor.

Natural ventilation of the underground, the most important organizational moment when installing a sub-floor. If it is not organized correctly, then no antiseptic will help you, and after a while you will have to change the entire floor covering.

The vent is made at a height of 30-40 cm, and 90 cm from the corner of a wooden house, so that the air does not stagnate.

To protect small rodents, a metal grate can be installed on the vents. For the winter, you can close the vents to keep the warmth of the first floor, but be sure to open with warming.

The preliminary floor should not be continuous. For the flooring, you can use any material that can withstand the given load.

Waterproofing is mainly used over the sub-floor. But, it can also be used before, or crushed stone can act as a material.

Roofing material is used as waterproofing over the floor. On top of the waterproofing, we lay a layer of insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene).

After a layer of insulation, you can start installing the finished floor, but professionals recommend over the layer of insulation, apply another layer of waterproofing, and then the final coating of the floor.

Laying the sub-floor on a concrete base

The most important condition is that the screed is perfectly flat.

There are two options for installing a subfloor on the surface of a concrete base:

Reiki is used when it is necessary to carry out communications, to mount additional insulation or a screed has significant differences, more than 2-3 mm.

Between the slats and the screed, we lay a layer of waterproofing, usually it is roofing material. We align the slats with linings and fasten with dowels. If necessary, we additionally insulate or install communications. Subsequently, we mount the floor with boards or slabs.

Remember that two plates in the middle will dock on one rail. We lay out the slabs like brickwork, thanks to which we get an even distribution of the load on the slats. We fix plates or boards with nails or self-tapping screws.

Laying the subfloor on a concrete base, used on a perfectly flat surface. To obtain a flat surface, auxiliary compounds are used, usually building glue. The glue is applied in an even layer, the slabs are laid one after the other.

The glue under the slab removes all irregularities and the sub-floor becomes a monolith with a concrete surface. The heads of nails and screws are sunk using a screwdriver or a doboinik. The holes from the caps are putty with a special compound.

It is important to always leave a distance of about 1 to 2 cm between the walls and the floor. Do not forget to lay this distance with any insulation. If you plan to lay linoleum on top, then it must be sanded with special machines. Mainly the joints of the plates.

Price of work performed

• Rough floor work for 1 sq.m. - an average of 150-200 rubles.
• Finishing floor work for 1 sq.m. - an average of 150-200 rubles.
• Completely rough floor, for 1 square meter - an average of 1200-1500 rubles.
• Fully finished floor, for 1 sq.m. - on average 2400-2800 p.