Installation of plastic windows in a metal profile. Installing plastic windows in a brick house - Step-by-step installation technology

At what stage of construction to install windows

Wooden windows It is necessary to install after all the wet inside the house finishing work - Plasters and couplers.

House before installation wooden windows Must seek a little bit. Otherwise, the high humidity of the indoor air (up to 96%) causes water swelling, moisture condensation on the glasses even more moisturizes the wooden details of the windows. As a result, the deformation and opening of the parts occurs, paints and varnishes are damaged wooden profiles window.

The decoration of the walls of plasterboard, instead of plaster, significantly reduces the release of moisture into the air of the room. Wooden windows can be installed already after the device of the screeds, before decoration of the walls of plasterboard.

Plastic PVC windows Do not fear moisture. They can be installed before the start of finishing work in the house.

If the walls are separated by dry plaster - drywall, then the windows are installed in any case before the start of finishing works. Plasterboard can be damaged by the atmospheric moisture that fell into the house through unfilled window openings.

If the premises are performed in winter

Often, work on the construction of walls and roofs of a private house end in the fall. Interior decoration Home home decide to do in winter. In this case paste plastic windows and launch heating in the house. Wall decoration in winter is better done using drywall. The facing of plasterboard does not greatly increase the humidity in the rooms and allows you to quickly perform the following steps of finishing.

In case of installation of wooden windows Finishing work in winter is necessarily performed using dry plaster.

To quickly reduce humidity, in the house with installed windows It is recommended to increase intensity natural ventilationBy installing electrical fans in Ventscanlas, and keep the windows with ajar.

The temperature in the premises during the finishing works, as well as so far, the plaster and screed do not dry, it is necessary constantly maintaining above +5 o C.

The number of building moisture in the house can be even more reduced, and the ending finishes will accelerate if the installation device in all or parts of the premises, instead of a monolithic concrete screed, use the dry team screed.

If the finish of the house is done in summer

If finishing work in the house starts in spring, then plastic windows better set before the start of work.

After mounting the windows first plaster slopes and angles window Operactions. Then they align the plaster wall.

In the case of wooden windows Their installation must be performed after the end of all wet finishing works.

At the time of finishing works, to eliminate drafts in the house, the window openings are closed by film.

First plaster the walls, not the touching window slopes. It is better to wait a while to enable the house to dry from the construction moisture. Then mounted wooden windows.

After installing wooden windows, you will have to once again invite finishes for plastering window slopes or cladding them with sheet material, for example, plasterboard.

When to separate the facade

On single-layer walls (without insulation) you can apply facade plaster both before mounting windows and after. But it is better to separate the facade after installing windows. In this case, the joints of the window and the walls will be correctly performed, the window slopes are made immediately, and the outer windows plums are installed.

If you finish the facade before installing windows, then you will have to return to the plaster of slopes. The plaster brought later will differ from the previously executed, which will noticeably.

For two-layer walls Installation of the insulation and the facade finish is performed after installing windows.

In a two-layer wall with a facade insulation, the windows must be installed before the installation of insulation slabs. This will allow you to properly complete the window slopes outside.

When finishing the facade of plaster through insulation, insulation slabs should be 2-3 cm. overlap window box. The insulation plates are laying without joints in the corners of window openings. For this, the insulation plate is cut off, giving it a M-shaped shape, and set the neck around the angle of the window.

At the time of finishing (plaster), the facade of the window is recommended to close with a polyethylene film, consolidating it with adhesive tape. Protect the window profile by a conventional painting ribbon is not recommended - traces may remain after the tape is removed.

The protective film on the frame outside the window is removed immediately after installation. Otherwise, under the influence of the Sun, the film will stick so that it will not be possible to remove it.

The protective film on the frame indoors may remain on the window of no more than one month from the date of installation.

Mounting windows - rules

To make an order for making windows, it is very important to correctly determine the size of the window block. If the block size is too large, then when installing it will not be possible to properly perform the slopes, install the windowsill and flow. With too small sizes of the window block, compared with the dimming size in the wall, the load on the mounting elements increases, difficulties arise with high-quality sealing of the joint between the wall and the window, which will create problems when operating the window.

Production of windows is beneficial to order in the winter - manufacturers during this period give discounts from the price. Store the windows purchased in advance before installation is needed in a dry place, eliminating the effects on them with sun rays.

In winter, plastic windows are not recommended to be installed at an outdoor temperature below -5 about C. Although they are installed on the standards of windows of windows, it is allowed at the air temperature to -10 about C. At a lower temperature, plastic becomes fragile, the risk of cracks and chips in the details of the window increases .

Mounting foam, even "winter", at negative temperatures may not have a good clutch with the wall. In a new house, the surface of the wall in the opening is often covered with a thin invisible eye in the cry of ice. At low temperature, the foam hardness occurs very slowly. Installation of windows is better to postpone the warm season.

Mounting window to the wall

The window block is installed in the opening of the windows to the remote bar laying and align horizontally and vertically by level.

To the wall, the window block is attached in two ways: steel anchors or frame dowels.

One end of the anchor - the galvanized steel plate is fixed on the window block, and the other end is screwed to the wall. The anchor window is attached as the windows manufacturer recommends.

With the help of steel anchors, you can fix any types of windows to the wall from any material and a different design (single-layer, multilayer).

Fastening the window to the wall of the frame dowel is not so universally.

For mounting the window with a frame dowel, a hole in the window profile is drilled. Through this hole in the profile, the hole is drilled and in the wall. A steel frame dowel is inserted into the resulting channel and twisted the screw dowel. The end of the dowel in the wall is squeezed and fixes the design to the wall.

This method of fastening is forced to interfere in the window design. Excessive twisting of the dowel leads to the deformation of the window profile, limits the movement of the structure when the temperature changes. It is necessary to follow the recommendations of the manufacturer of windows on the mounting of them to the wall with the help of dowels.

The most important thing when installing the window is to provide a high-quality seal of the junction between the wall and the window. Be sure to monitor the operation of the assembly brigade to fill the joint with polyurethane foam.

Under the influence of ultraviolet sunlight, the mounting foam is collapsed over time. therefore outside, adjoining windows and walls Protect against atmospheric effects with a special ribbon or liquid sealant for outdoor work.

The adjuncing of the window to the wall outside the house is sealing a special ribbon.

The seal between the window and the wall protects the bog from the penetration of rain, wind and ultraviolet.

From the inside of the room The space between the window box and the wall is riveted with a steamproof ribbon. Sealing makes it possible to eliminate the penetration of steam and its condensation in the wall of the wall and windows.

Location window in the wall

Location of the window and door thicker outdoor Wall It should provide minimal heat loss through the wall in slopes around the window perimeter (bypassing the window).

Window in a single-layer wall without insulation

In a single-layer wall, the window or outer door is recommended to have a wall thickness, closer to its middle. In this position, the heat loss in the slopes in the place of the adjoint will be minimal.

Figure: 1 - reinforcement of the seam (if necessary); 2 - a diverse ceramic unit; 3 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 4 - window; 5 - masonry from large-format ceramic blocks; 6 - reinforced concrete jumpers; 7 - reinforced concrete belt; 8 - SPECIAL WORLD Overlapping; 9 - heat-insulation plates; 10 - concrete screed 5 cm; 11 - compensation tape.

Location of the window in a two-layer wall

In a two-layer wall with a facade finish with siding or plaster on the insulation ("wet facade"), the window block is flush with the outer surface of the wall masonry.

The layer of insulation on the facade of the two-layer wall must overlap the joint between the window and the wall, and overlap on the window profile by 2-3 cm.

Location of the window in a three-layer wall

Figure: 1 - horizontal waterproofing with stewing over the wall; 2 - hole in vertical seam between bricks for water and ventilation; 3 - jumper w / w in the facing, is saved by clinker tiles; 4 - sealant silicone or sealing tape; 5 - window, located in the thickness of the heat insulating layer; 6 - jumper w / w in the bearing layer of the wall.

In a three-layer wall, with a lining of the insulated facade brick, the windows are installed in a layer of insulation, closer to the laying of the carrier part of the wall. The gap between the facing masonry and the window block is filled with an elastic ribbon pos. 4. Seal between the window and cladding protects the joint from the penetration of rain, wind and ultraviolet.

Figure: 1 - a windowsill from clinker (shaped brick or tile); 2 - sealing of the joint; 3 - window box; 4 - groove - drip; 5 - ventilated clearance.

Distribution of temperatures in the window of the window in a three-layer wall

Window in the wall of timber

Proper window installation in a wall of timber: 1 - wall; 2 - Rake; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - Bar wall above the window; 7 - interwidder insulation; 8 - shrinkage gap over the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - Bar wall (simple); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Roller shutters on the windows

FROM outdoor on the windows of a private house it is recommended to install a roller shutter. Closed rolling shutters not only protect the windows from hacking, but in tall frosts reduce heat loss through the windows, and in the summer heat reduce overheating by the house with sunlight. The installation of a roller shutdown on the windows is better to provide in advance, at the design stage of the house or place an order for the manufacture of windows.

Irish an article on this topic:

The first thing to do is determine dimensions Your Future window. To do this, open the sash of the old window and measure the width of the window opening (from one outdoor slope to the other). Then we measure the height of the window (from the window jumper to low tide). Add 2 cm to the resulting size of the width and height of the window - this is done so that the window can be passed to 1 cm on each side.

Learning window sizeBoldly go to the Metal Manufacturing Firm plastic windows. A week or two you make this window. In the meantime there is no window yet, you should purchase on the wholesale database accessories for this window.

Components for plastic windows

The two-time and three-risk window requires the following accessories:

1. Sill - 1 PC;

2. Plastic slopes - 3 pcs;

3. Low tide - 1 PC.

4. Starting profile for plastic windows - 3 pcs;

5. Platbands - 3 pcs;

6. Stub on the windowsill - 1 PC;

7. Stand profile - 1 PC.

Depending on the thickness of the wall determine the width of the window sill, slopes and motion. There are three main types of residential buildings: panel houses with a thickness of the outer wall 300-350 mm, brick houses with a thickness of the outer wall - 510 mm, and brick houses with a thick wall - 640 mm and more.

For panel house required low tide 160 mm width, sill 300 mm width, two slopes 450 mm wide. Why two? Because one plastic slope dissolves in length, one half is mounted on the top internal slope of the window, and the second half is installed on the side slope. The second plastic slope is also dissolved in half and is used only one half on the second side slope. The second half remains "about the supply" or will be used when installing the second plastic window.

For brick house With a wall thickness - 510 mm will need low tide 260 mm width, sill 400-500 mm wide, three slopes 450 mm wide.

For a brick house with a wall thickness of 640 and more required low tide 260 mm width, sill 600 mm width, three slopes 600 mm wide.

The next thing to do is to determine the length component plastic windows, namely the length of the window sill, the length of slopes and low tide.

Length of the window sill It is very simple, it is necessary to add 160 mm to the windows width - for brick houses or 140 mm - for panel houses. Those. If you have a windows width of 1300 mm, then the length of the windowsill in brick house It will be equal to 1460 mm, in the panel - 1430 mm.

Length of slopes It does not depend on the type of building. The length of the upper slope is equal to the windows width plus 100 mm, the length of the side slopes is equal to the height of the window plus 100 mm.

Fleet length equal to the width of the window plus 100 mm.

Materials for installing plastic windows

In addition to components, you should purchase materials and fasteners for plastic window.

Materials for metal-plastic window :

1. Mounting foam ;

Consumption of installation foam: three foam cylinders per double window, four cylinders per three-risk window. It all depends on the width of the gap between the wall and the window.

2. Rotband;

Consumption: one bag per two- or three-rissed window. From my own experience, one bag will be much.

3. Polyopolmineol ;

Consumption: 1-2 sheet 50 mm thick on one window.

4. Liquid plastic ;

Consumption: one tube is enough for several windows.

5. Water-emulsion paint ;

Consumption: liter 2-3 should be enough for one window.

6. Three rails for fastening plastic slopes .

Fasteners for windows :

1. Dowel 6x60 mm and 6x40 mm, for mounting the window;

Consumption: 10-20 pieces per window.

2. Self-tapping screws 16 mm long for fastening low tide;

Consumption: 3 pcs. On one bivalve, 4 pcs. One three-risk window.

3. Black Tree Self Heads 16 mm long;

Consumption: 10-20 pcs. On the window.

4. Anchor plates For mounting the window to the wall.

Consumption: 4 plates on one window.

5. Black metal screws , 9 mm long ("bugs")

Consumption: 50-100 pcs. On the window.

In addition, you will need a set of tools for repair.

So, the window purchased, components purchased, materials and fasteners were purchased, it's time to start the installation of the plastic window.

Preparation of the plastic window to installation

The first thing to do is prepare a window for mounting. To do this, you must remove the sash, insert three stick profile sticks and fasten four anchor plates to the window. Unpack the window is not necessary.

To remove the sash from the windowYou need to take the passatology and the handle from the window, because The handle is separate from the window, in the bag together with the fittings. Insert the handle and open the sash, pressing the top loop with the poles to the spindle (rod), so that the spindle hat is slightly climbed from the top loop. Then, passage takes this spindle hat and pull down, so that the spindle gets completely out of the top loop. Now we take the sash with both hands and raise it up so that the sash will be completely out of the bottom loop. That's all, the sash is removed.

Now you need insert into the groove and fasten the starting profile. First, you need to install the top starter, and then the side. We measure the width of the window and add one centimeter to it on each side, it will be the length of the upper starting profile. With the help of a grinder, cut off the upper starting profile of the required length. Insert the upper starting profile into the grooves with the help of a hammer or can be inserted with your hands and screw it up to the window on black screws for metal ("bugs"). Then we measure the distance from the bottom of the plastic window to the lower edge of the upper starting profile and cut off the two side starting profiles. In the same way, insert them and screw them.

The next thing you need to do is fasten four anchor plates to the window. With the help of a hammer, you clog the anchor plate into the window profile, as shown in the figure, at a distance of 15 cm from the top of the window and 15 cm from the bottom of the window. And screw the plates on press suck with a drill, 25 mm long, so that presssheb drilled metallic profile inside the window profile.

Check if it is worth it facular profile at the bottom of the window. If not, turn it over the window and take it in the groove. You do not need to fasten it. If there is no passing profile at all, and it happens, refer to the issue to the manufacturer from whom you ordered this window.

Now the window is ready to install.

Dismantling of old windows

The next step will be, of course, dismantling of the old window. With the help of scrap-novel, we remove all the sash, remove the old tide and pull out the windowsill, pre-destroying the bottom of the inner side slopes. Then, using a tree hacksaw, we saw impost And dismantle it. Then we cut the lower part window box And with the help of scrap, carefully pull out the window box from the opening. Clean the window opening from the packle, wool and dust, good, while smoeming the surface of the window opening to avoid dusting all the premises.

Now, everything is ready for the installation of a metal-plastic window.

Installation of plastic windows with your own hands

Installing a plastic window, of course better with a partner than one. Therefore, ask someone to help you drag the window into the window opening and protrude it. Once the window will stay on the anchor plates, you can perform all the remaining work to one.

Metal-plastic window Tosted by wooden bars So before installing the window in the window opening, wooden bars must be set. To do this, you need to measure the height of the window along with the submarine profile - it will be the distance from the jumper of the window opening to the wooden bar. Now exhibit wooden bars using this distance.

Bruks put, now, neat and slowly, we put a plastic window on wooden bars, while one person holds a window, and another puts it in horizontal levelBy means of a substrate under a submarine pinch profile. At the same time, playing the window to the left-right, so that it stood symmetrically outdoor docks. In addition to all this, you need to set the window, so that the distance from the edge of the outer wall to the submarine profile is equal to the width of the minus 2, see, for example, in panel house With a width of 16 cm, it is necessary to set the window at a distance of 14 cm from the edge of the outer wall.

When mounting the window, it is best to use a small level level, about 300 mm.

The window is stuck, it's time for him bounce. Moisten the surface The window opening around the perimeter so that the mounting foam is grapped faster. In the gaps between the window and the wall, it is necessary to lay pieces of polynterol, so that the foam consumption is minimal. As a result, you should get three-layer seam: wall - foam - Poly Penopolmine - Foam - Window profile. Carefully apply all slotsAs outside and inside, otherwise, in winter, your window will freeze. After the proprenage window spray foam waterto grab faster.

As soon as the foam grabs, it will be possible to start the mounting of the window sill.

Since the windowsill is cut off already in size, it will be necessary to destroy the inner slopes Under the size of the windowsill, so that it is easy to enter the submarine profile. In order to avoid slots between the windowsill and the window profile, it is necessary to put a few slips under the windowsill. Particular attention should be paid to the symmetry of the windowsill relative to the window. With the help of the kitchen and roulette, play the windowsill left-right relative to the window. After that, exhibit window sills to the level, putting wooden bars under it. For double window There are enough three bars located along the edges and in the middle of the windowsill. For three-risk window There will be four bars.

As soon as the windowsill is exposed to the level, Put something heavy on it, such as Rotband's bag or bricks. After that, it's good to have a snake under the windows, special attention is paid to the place next to the submarine profile, as well as the left and right corner of the window sill. The stupid of the window sill should be so that in the middle along the entire length of the windowsill remained empty space. This is necessary so that the foam in the expansion does not squeeze the windowsill, and expanded into this space. If the gap between the windowsill and the wall is large, use polyenopolster.as for mounting window.

After mounting the windowsill start set rails for internal plastic slopes. First exhibit B. horizontal level top rakeand then put two side rails in vertical level. The upper rack is attached to the wall on a piece of guide profile or on a piece of suspension, stuck on a dowel to the wall. To set the upper rail in the desired position, you need to mark with a pencil 90 ° from the vertical window profile, pressing the kit to the upper starting profile. Then up from this line to measure 3 cm - in a brick house or 2 cm - in the panel house. Upon top, we serve a guide profile or a piece of suspension and screw the rail to it, flush with the inner edge of the wall.

Similarly, exhibit lateral rails, but now 90 ° metering from horizontal window profiles.

As soon as all the rails are exhibited, it is necessary make a gap between the rail and the wall. So that the foam did not argue the rack when expanding, it is necessary to fix it in the middle using the suspension of the stuck to the wall. After grappling foam, these suspensions are dismantled.

It's time install plastic slopes On the window. Everything is simple, the main thing is not to be mistaken with the size and not cut off too short slope. Plastic slopes cut off with the help of a grinder And they are screwed to wooden slats on black tap screws, 2,5 cm long.

Between the upper slope and the side slope formed a gap, we close it with a piece of starting profile. After pre-cut from it, with which the starting profile is attached to the window.

Do not forget warm clearance Between the wall and plastic slope. It is possible to insulate it different ways. You can simply stop foam layer, can stick polystyrene foam, Can i magate the "escape".

Installation of platbands on the windows

The next stage will be installing platbands on plastic slopes. As always, first install the upper platband, and then side platbands. Using the kitchen, pencil and grinder, we take the edge of the upper platband under 45 °. Then, as shown in the photo, we take the side platbands.

Installing plastic windows

Next you will need fasten the cast. The sump is screwed to the submarine profile to the short press. As with the mounting of the windowsill, you first need to break out the exterior slopes under the latter. Make sure that the outside under the submarine profile is all well propenged. Then screw the tide into three screws, playing it around. And the latter, well shove the cast around the perimeter.

Completion of work and adjustment of the plastic window with your own hands

Now all components are installed and time make foam rotband. Using the tree hacksaw and the construction knife, cut down all the surplus of foam, both outside the window and indoors, and shook the rotband foam.

As soon as rotband Frozen, paint outdoor slopes and inner plaster water-emulsion paint.

The next step when installing the plastic window is removal protective film With slopes, windowsill, windows and hanging sash.

If a sash somewhere tert, and this happens almost always, it must be adjusted with a hexagon with a diameter of 4 mm.

Everything catering Spots and Pollution It is easiest to wash with a cloth moistened in solvent. After sacrifice of the plastic window you should hide plastic closures for loops, fasten the handle,put Plugs on the windowsilland put Caps for drainage channels,outside the window.

And at the very end, we scroll all the cracks with liquid plastic.

On this installation of metal-plastic windows with their own hands in the apartment finished.

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Hello everyone, dear readers! Since we have many questions about the installation of windows, we decided to prepare an article about proper installation Window windows so that you can check the quality of work after the installation team. We hope the article will be useful.

Buying a window, we hope that it will serve us for many years. But over time, we notice that at first it begins to think about it, and then frankly blow. Sucks are covered by cracks, black fungus appears in the corners, and in the winter the flowers freeze on the windowsill.

As a rule, it's all about the wrong window mounting. In this article we will talk about the existing installation technology. Let us dwell on the proper installation of the window and consider which materials it is better to use.

First of all, you need to prepare the opening, clean it from dust and dirt. If the opening has irregularities, they need to be aligned with putty.

First removed the sash. This is done as follows. You must open the window, remove the pin from the top loop and remove the sash. Then removed, it is sick in the junction with a frame with a ribbon pips and is installed back.

Preparation of the balcony unit to install according to the technology is similar to the preparation of the window. The joints of the frame according to the technological requirements are sampled with a ribbon of psyms and closed with a docking profile and is ribbon again. The frames are then connected with a docking profile.

Correct installation - the key to success

In accordance with the norms and requirements of GOST in the windows of white PVC, the distance between the attachments should be no more than 700 mm. and 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the frame. The diameter of the drill must be less than the diameter of the self-press.

In the frames drill holes for the connection. Self-tapping screws are inserted into these holes and frames twist. When attaching a design, anchor dowels drill holes in advance. According to GOST from the corner of the frame should be 150-180 mm. There are no more than 700 mm between the fasteners. Holes under the dowelle are worn from the outer side of the frame.

Then the support pads are placed under the frame. Support pads can be made of solid wood or plastic wood. Next, the design must be inserted into the opening and secure the frame with pillows. Then you need to take the level and with it to align the window design horizontally, helping the support pads and pillows.

After the horizontal leveling, the frame must be aligned vertically relative to the facade with the same level and pillows. From the outside, it is necessary to note the place where the psul tape will be glued (vapor-permeable self-insulating sealing tape). After the marker is removed.

If you plan to finish slopes pVC panelsthen you need to snap on the frame starting profile for slopes.

With a shift of 5 mm. From the applied marks is pasted on the outer side of the frame of the ribbon psyl. First, on the upper part, then on the sides.

Pits - Pre-compressed sealing tape - is used to connect a steamproof water-repellent layer from the outside of the mounting seam.

FROM inner To protect the mounting seam from moisture, it is necessary to stick a full butular vapor insulation inner tape and fasten it in the corners. Then the design must be added again in the opening and finally align with pillows and reference pads.

After that, the holes under the dowel drill in the wall and the vertical spacer pads are inserted on the sides of the frame and the window is fixed.

After fixing the window, you can hang sash. The next stage is the insulation of the window seam by mounting foam. For high-quality sealing, it is better to use a professional foam under a gun with a low secondary extension. Before applying the foam, you need to moisten the opening with a spray gun.

Carefully shake the foam balloon and fill the openings by 70% of their depths. Seams more than 5 mm are filled with foam in several layers.

If the window is installed in winter, it is necessary to use frost-resistant materials and winter mounting foam. After 15-20 minutes after applying the foam, it is necessary to close the inner tape. A metallized vapor barrier tape is installed under the windowsill. From the outside, an external diffusion vapor-permeable ribbon is installed on the sump. The window is set.

Finishing plastic window after installation

After the plastic window is installed, you can start the process of decorating it, i.e. Installations of slopes and sweeps.

On the pre-inspired, the end lining is put on. To reduce the noise from the rain, it is recommended to stick a full-bull tape under the reflection. Then the sampling is attached to the frame with the help of self-tapping screws.

The windowsill is set as follows. Special brackets are mounted under the window on the self-tapping screw to simplify the installation of the window sill. The space under the future windowsill is slightly marked by the mounting foam so that the windowsill did not rise. After that, the windowsill itself is inserted between the frame and the bracket. Again, with the help of the level and reference pads, the windowsill is aligned horizontally.

Note. When aligning the windowsill, you need to make a slope of 1-2 degrees towards the room. After installing the windowsill, you can start decoking the window opening. For this purpose, special PVC panels are taken on the initial profile with the clip. The platband starts the corner and fixes on the wall by self-draws. From above it is covered with a decorative plank.

Do not forget to put out end plugs on the window sill. The seams between the sloping panels, the ends of the window sill and the tint are sealed with neutral silicone sealant.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands is possible if you are not going to glater large areas or engage in the overall windows (from 2x2 m). Editors insist: it is better to mount windows with a partner, as alone will work and difficult, and boring.

Installation instructions for plastic windows: removing measurements

Measures of the rectangular window:

1. Measure the width of the opening (L. - Width of the opening in mm).

2. Calculate the overall width (L - width in mm) according to the formula L \u003d L. - 2 Q.

3. Measure the height of the opening (n. - the height of the opening in mm).

4. Calculate the overall height of the window (H - height in mm) according to the formula H \u003d n. - 2 Q.

q is the size of the assembly clearance, according to GOST 30971-02 its value should not exceed 20-30 mm.

Photo 1 - KBE balcony plastic pair (bivalve window)

IMPORTANT! The magnitude of the mounting seam arbitrarily increase or decrease is impossible: in the first case, the mounting foam, laid in a thick layer in the gap, may not withstand the weight of the structure, and in the second - you will not be able to install the windowsill or even a window.

Almost all plastic windows have a standing profile that is outgoing for the level frame level. It is intended for reliable mounting of the window sill to the window. When calculating the dimensions of the structure, it is important to take into account its height.

Formula for calculating the height of the window:

Photo 2 - Ready Plastic Single Window 600 x 750

Perfectly smooth window openings are rare, because it is important when measuring the design measurements not only one length and one width, but also the entire perimeter of the window and its diagonal (from the bottom of the lower angle to the right upper and from the right lower angle to the left top).

5. Measure the thickness of the walls of the house (G - the thickness of the walls in mm).

6. Construction during installation will be located no further than 2 / 3G from the inner surface of the wall, i.e. Will not strongly shifted towards the street.

IMPORTANT! The shift towards the street lowers the thermal insulation of the room, but increases sound insulation indicators.

7. We measure the length of the mound (Lo - the length of the mel in mm). If you do not plan to put the end plugs, use the Formula Lo \u003d L. + 50 mm, where 50 mm are inputs to the end stroke seams. If the end plugs are, then Lo \u003d L. - 20 mm.

IMPORTANT! When measuring, be careful: the width of the window opening at least may not coincide.

Photo 3 - Rehau 2050x1415

8. Calculate the hoist width (but - the width of the melting in mm) by the formula: but \u003d G external. + (30 mm or 40 mm), where G is ex. - This is the width of the wall from the point of attaching the plane of the window frame to the outer horizontal wall.

9. Measure the length of the window sill (L under. - The length of the window sill in mm) according to the formula L under. \u003d LPR. + 2x, where x - the launch of the windowsill on the wall.

IMPORTANT! The length of the windowsill should not be equal to the width of the window.

Photo 4 - Velux Optima 78 × 118 (GLP MR06 0073B, mansard)

10. Measure the width of the window sill (n under. - Width of the windowsill in mm). To gtutr. It is necessary to add the magnitude of the "departure" of the windowsill and take the thickness of the PVC box (in the standard it is 60, 70 and 86 mm, but it is better to navigate the specific, and not standardized indicator).

IMPORTANT! The windowsill with a long "departure" may interfere with the normal circulation of warm air from the battery. The windowsill should not close the battery more than 1/3.

11. Measure the length of slopes by the formula L receive. \u003d LPR. Max + 30 mm, where 30 mm is a dive to fit, and the LPR. Max is the maximum length of the horizontal window opening.

12. Measure the width of slopes according to the formula N OTV. \u003d G ins. + 30 mm or 40 mm, where 30 mm and 40 mm are mounting allowances.

Ways to install windows

There are several installation methods:

• with unpacking

The design before installation is completely disassembled: they remove the strokes, double-glazed windows, windows with loops and in the opening only the window frame is mounted, fixing it with dowels and screws to the wall on the anchor mounting plates. After installing the frame, the design is collected.

• without unpacking

Photo 5 - Economy 1180x1415

The window frame is fixed in the opening of the outer fasteners.

The last method is not suitable for high-rise floors - the order of the installation of plastic windows above the 15th floor involves more reliable way Frame mounts after parsing the window.

All this can be done faster if you install the design in the sandwich panel.

Installing windows in a brick house

Designs are chosen depending on the type of construction. Brick houses have wide walls, good heat and sound insulation, because the windows for apartments in a brick house can be selected from the economy class.

IN frame house Designs put according to standard technology. More attention is paid to outer waterproofing. When mounting windows in such structures it is convenient to use lining for installation.

IMPORTANT! Due to the high probability shrinkage of a new wooden building, windows in brusade house Must be fixed so as not to interfere with the natural deformation of the walls.

You can extend the service life of the windows, if you make large mounting gaps, static to fix verticals, and the horizontal is a "floating" method.

Photo 6 - single swivel-folding

Technology installation of plastic windows: prompts from the experts of the industry

IN technological map. There is not only a detailed drawing with the indication of all components of the elements, but also painted the volume of materials for installation.

Installation of windows by GOST

Installation of plastic windows according to GOSTA imply use:

• PSUs for waterproofing,
• ribbons for protection mounting foam From ultraviolet
• additional interlayers for installation so that the mounting foam does not leave the seam on the outside of the wall.

Proceedings:

1. Purified from the garbage and dust window opening processing the primer.

2. Parposolation tape is glued to the frame by half aimimeter (protruding the edge of the ribbon to frozen the mounting foam, closing the seam).

3. On the frame without tensions, we glue the external waterproofing - psyl.

4. We set the frame in the opening (G), align in the level in a horizontal and vertical position using wedges.

5. Rama is secure on the anchor plates or through the wall in a step of no more than 70 cm, starting in the window opening with the upper fasteners. From the corners of the frame, extreme fasteners should not be removed by more than 15 cm.

6. For the organization of low tide from the outside of the frame, fasten the diffuser tape and ps.

7. Mounting seams Fill foam and after 15 minutes we close the film into the lapse.

8. Single Brepim to the frame with an occasion under it. We also install the windowsill (exhibited by horizontal level, we use wooden wedges for alignment).

Plastic windows deservedly use the reputation of functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic structures. They are becoming increasingly popular and confidently displacing the usual wooden windows for many people.

Plastic windows received a reputation as strong, durable and reliable structures.

For their additional benefits, it can be attributed to the fact that, with a large desire, almost any person can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because For installation, experts ask for quite a lot of money. In addition, having understood how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and you can do everything in accordance with technology.

How to determine the size of the future plastic window

Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out what kind of design should be. And this begins preparatory stage With removal of measurements. With independent measurement of measurements house master Must know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The procedure for measuring the openings of two different types It will also be different.

An option with a quarter involves removing measurements in the following order. First you need to measure the opening between the quarters in the very narrow place And add to the resulting value 3-4 cm. It will be the width of the design. Additionally, make sure that a certain width of the future plastic windows exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the bottom plane of the opening and the upper horizontal quarter. So you will define the amount you need.

In the case when the plastic window is installed in the opening without said quarter, to determine the appropriate size, it is necessary to simply take away from the height of 5 cm, and from the width - 3 cm.

Additionally, determine what size there should be a windowsill and a sampling if you plan to replace them. There should be no complications with this operation, you only need to take into account the following important factors.

When determining the lifting width, future thermal insulation or lifting is taken into account. According to the standards, the chum should speak from the vertical of the walls by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional destination. For example, if you want to set flowers in pots on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, during the selection of the windowsill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element overlap the heating battery.

The length of the windowsill must be 8-10 cm more than the width of the opening. The edges should be removed in the slope cavity at least 5 cm.

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Order windows and preparation for work

At the next stage, it is necessary to go together with the obtained measurements in the company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you do not want to spend time to measure or doubt that you can do everything right, order this service in the same company. Most firms offer it free on condition that the window will be ordered from them.

In addition to the sizes of the window, you need to define the following parameters:

1. The number of cameras in the double-blade.
2. The number of cameras in the window profile.
3. The presence of accessories and the necessary fasteners.

The consultant will tell in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare in advance. So, if in your winter region is not very cold, and on the street outside the window is not very noisy, there will be enough windows with two glasses and a 3-mm wide profile. Next, already focus on the climate features and the surrounding environment.

For self-mount The plastic window will need the following:

To set windows, you will need: hammer, drill, screwdriver, construction level, etc.

1. Pistol for mounting foam and foam itself.
2. Drill with speed adjustment and perforation mode.
3. A small ax and hammer.
4. Scissors for metal.
5. A sharp knife will fit the stationery.
6. Building level.
7. Chisel.
8. Grinders.
9. Nail-breeder.
10. Electrolzik. In the absence of such, you can use the hacksaw with small teeth.
11. Putty knife.

From materials additionally buy:

1. Multipurpose construction glue.
2. Wooden timber total 150-200 cm long and 2x4 cm sizes.
3. Dowels.
4. Plastic corners and panels from the same material.
5. Selfless sizes. Usually used 6x40, 2x16, 2x80.
6. Solvents.
7. Mix for plaster.
8. Silicate glue.

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Dismantling of the old window with your own hands

At the very initial stage of the window shift, it is necessary to dismantle the old window design.

If windows already installed in the room, then before starting the installation of a new window, you need to get rid of the existing design. If in the future you do not plan to install an old window anywhere, you can not try to be neat, but caution does not hurt. Make everything so as not to be hurt and not to drop the window outside. Last Rule especially relevant for apartments in high-rise buildings, because The window may fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And in a private house, the cleaning of glasses will not give you any pleasure.

First, remove the opening windows and sash. Remove all the glass from the design, after removing the retaining strokes. Take the grinder with a circle on concrete or hacksaw. Using the tool, make the cuttings along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.

With the help of a girlish tool - a montage, lomik, hammer - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to keep the old window, the design can be obtained without deformation and damage. But this will require much longer and certain skills.

At this stage, the external tump and windowsill are dismantled. In conclusion, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned from dust and all kinds of construction garbage.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window

Gradually, you approached the main stage of work - installing a new window. This work requires a thorough and consistent implementation of a whole list of various events.

First, the window preparations for further installation. At this stage, you need to fix the fastening plate to the end and side parts of the frame. In the future, precisely thanks to them, the design will be held in the desired position. Quite often, the installers replace the plates with suspensions, which are usually used in the device of various plasterboard structures. But when installing the plastic window, it is much more expedient to use the plates. They are stronger than suspensions.

Planks need to securely fix the frame to the end. When installing fasteners will have to enter the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be so that the glass package is not deformed. Fasteners are performed using self-tapping screws. Data diameter Products pick up the size of the window. Standard design sizes are usually installed using self-samples with a diameter of 4 mm. For more overall blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use a random selflessness - 5-6 mm in diameter.

The mounting of the anchor plane to the end of the frame should be performed so that they are installed in a step of 6-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.

After that, you need to correctly set the prepared window design. With superficial consideration, this procedure may seem rather simple, but take it all seriousness. It is best to enlist the support of the assistant at this stage. One of you will support the block, and the second is to play it alignment.

Install the block in the opening and adjust its position using pre-prepared wedges. It is important to set a block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:

1. Squeeze the module not only below, but also on the sides.
2. Make sure that all the vertical frame elements are in a single plane.
3. If there is an impost, place the wedges and under it.

Check the fixation of the block installation using a level. If you have the slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, with the help of anchor bolts or dowels, fix the anchor plates to the cavity of the opening. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to enclosing structures. To do this, you may need to remove the layer of plaster in the place of attachment of the anchor plates.

After you securely fix the module, take the seams using the foam specially intended for this work. It is important that the material is intended for the installation of plastic windows. Carefully learn the instructions and make sure that it can be used on humidity and temperature at the module installation site.

Before applying a foam, moisture the surface of the seam with water. If you need to fill the site wider 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.