How to properly attach the slopes to plastic windows. Plastic Window Slope Installation Guide

Hello dear readers! I decided that it would be enough to write only about the windows, it’s time to talk about finishing near the windows.

Namely, we will talk about the slopes and their finishing with plastic panels. Many will say that well, this plastic, one harm from it. But, in my defense, I will note that it is not harmful at all, it looks aesthetically pleasing and does not require much maintenance and dirty installation work, unlike plaster.

So, let me tell you about the slopes. Who is not familiar - read. Share your tips in the comments!

After installing plastic windows, the window opening looks far from the best way: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster, wall material is visible in places. All this "beauty" is closed different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which there is expanded polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

Basic installation methods plastic slopes two: with and without a start profile. Both are given with step-by-step instructions and photos. How to fix slopes on plastic windows decide for yourself. Both methods give good results.

Installation of sandwich panel slopes without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed in such a way that the distance from the window frame to the wall of the opening is too small. In this case, installation with a starter profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - not possible at all.

After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.

The device for the slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is easy to cut, just do not overdo it, cut it flush, and do not cut it - the foam holds and insulates the frame. Chunks of plaster that get in the way and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - less foam will creep.

Then, along the perimeter of the window, we nail (we put on dowels, if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side to the slope.

Usually it is not leveled, nailed as it is, but if you want, you can set it straight, placing pieces of plywood, thin boards, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to cut correctly plastic panels... You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had an old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending over excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. Cut out with a small margin - it is easier to cut off than to cover up later.

We cut it with a hacksaw with a cloth for metal, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost flat, where necessary, we work part-time with a file.

Having removed the approximated and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to fix and do not damage the plastic.

We put it in place again, take a cylinder with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short "pins". We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour much: swollen, it can twist the plastic.

There are several points about working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper and / or primed with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: moisture is needed for normal foam polymerization.

Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is preliminarily treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

Then we raise the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - we cut out the paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out the plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal.

To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge even easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, with a file or whetstone(half a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) coincidence at the top and bottom, set in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level as the plaster of the wall.

You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.

Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for the studs. We put the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from the bottom up.

Too much foam and this is not good, as plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deeply as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: on the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which starts under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake.

Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installing). After filling, press, level, fix with carnations in the bar.

So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard they try to fit exactly the plastic, the gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes of the type of polyurethane foam, put in the same assembly gun.

Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub, level, remove excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wipe gently - clean. As long as the acrylic is not frozen, it cleans well.

Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing the cracks from above - right away - the horizontal panel of the slope, then the joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to cover up the joints with the windowsill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be pulled into the seam - if the gaps are large. Pass all these places a second time using the same method.

After the second layer has dried, if there are roughness and unevenness, they can be smoothed with fine grain sandpaper by folding it in half. In general, it is best to carefully level it while it is wet, otherwise the plastic may be scratched.

Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be putty, leveling with the surface of the walls. You can then remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of expanded polypropylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels.

The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels can be pressed through quite easily, besides, if the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. There is no such thing in sandwich panels and plastic window sills. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even to the lumen.

We mount plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes begins using this technology with the preparation of a window opening. We cut off the foam exactly, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, walk along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, they are fastened wooden block... Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go over the frame. One side of the bar must be earned with a plane, making a tilt. The angle of inclination of this face is equal to the angle of installation of the slope. You can saw it off, but it is even more difficult to do, unless there is a circular saw with an adjustable angle.

We fasten the processed block to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall. If the wall is brick, you can try with self-tapping screws; dowels must be installed in the concrete one.

Buy a starting profile in the store, set it with its long side to the bar, fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler, if there is none, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, take a dense one. It is more expensive, but you dearly only three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, soft - bends and the look is ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are no gaps at all, or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, acrylics can be repaired.

Using this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of seam slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap (ceiling) ones, then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.

The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.

The panel inserted into the profile is, as a rule, longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. Having removed, cut off along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little from the wall and fill it with polyurethane foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To do this, we start from the far lower corner - we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. Until we got to the top, the foam at the bottom expanded slightly.

Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner and thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel as it should stand.

Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part is also installed and then the upper one. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to perfect (or almost) coincidence with sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails.

The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press, passing along with your hand, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

In a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Do not use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for a white acrylic sealant and mask with it.

Source: stroychik.ru/okna/okonnye-otkosy-iz-plastika

The newly installed window, whether it is plastic or wooden, has an incomplete appearance. And even after installing the window sill, almost nothing will change. And in order for your window to acquire an aesthetic appearance, it is necessary to install slopes.

Today, plastic slopes for windows are popular. Slopes are part of the window opening on the side and top of the window. After replacing a window block or installing a new one, finishing the slopes is an obligatory stage of work, along with installing the window sill.

This is, as it were, the final touch in the installation of the window and giving it a noble, light and bright appearance. Slopes are plastered, plasterboard, plastic.

Slope types

Plastered slope - a rough layer of mortar (cement-sand or gypsum) is applied to the surface, after drying, a finishing layer is applied and painted.
Plasterboard slope - the surface is sheathed with plasterboard, primed, putty and painted or pasted over with wallpaper.
Plastic slopes - the window opening is sheathed with plastic panels.

Plastic slope for windows can be of two types

Hollow panels with stiffeners inside;
Sandwich - panels - two plastic panels interconnected by expanded polystyrene.

The advantages of plastic slopes

aesthetic and finished look;
installation of plastic slopes is an almost clean and quick procedure;
long service life - slopes are made of the same material as plastic windows so that both windows and slopes have the same service life;
vapor and moisture impermeable - plastic slopes can be washed without worrying that water will damage them;
ease of maintenance - they can only be wiped from dust, and the plastered slope has to be painted periodically;
unlike plastered ones, plastic slopes do not crack;
ideal for plastic windows, a monolithic construction is obtained.

Of course, it does not do without its drawbacks. Plastic slopes for windows are often scratched, the same applies to plastic window sills... But if you treat them carefully and take care of them, the slopes will last a very long time.

As for the myth about the dangers of plastic products, as our beloved Shurik said, "And nowadays it is easier to get poisoned with a sprat from a can." PVC slopes are not much more harmful than varnish or paint. Plastic slopes have good thermal insulation, in contrast to plastered ones.

They have an air gap (plastic panels) or a layer of polyurethane foam (sandwich panel), and due to installation, PVC slopes can receive additional thermal insulation. If the installation of plastic slopes is carried out on foam, in this case the free space under the panel is filled, as a result, improved thermal insulation and protection against fungus is obtained.

They can also be installed using PVC-based glue. Liquid PVC glue helps to make an almost monolithic structure of slopes and windows.

Decorating window slopes with hollow plastic panels will be cheaper, but there are disadvantages - a thin layer of thermal protection. A sandwich panel slope is a preferable option in this regard. They are more durable, warmer and can be used to trim wide slopes - up to 1.5 meters.

The disadvantage of such slopes is the high price. Decorating window slopes is not an easy process, taking on this work yourself, without experience, you can ruin everything. And the installation will cost you twice as much. Therefore, if you have no confidence in own forces, it is best to turn to professionals.

The price for plastic slopes depends on the height and width of the product.

Laminated slopes (with colored coating) will cost more than usual. For example, the price of a plastic slope made of a sandwich panel 150 mm wide will be around 150 rubles per running meter, colored sandwiches - 1,200 rubles m / p, and the cost of panels 600 - 800 mm wide: 600 and 3,000 rubles, respectively ...

The price for installing plastic slopes can be 400 - 500 rubles per running meter, depending on the width.

If you still think that plastering window slopes is more profitable than sheathing with plastic, remember the advantages of PVC slopes. Plastic slopes on windows will not turn yellow over time, will not crack and do not require periodic staining.

Source: proevrookna.ru/otkosy-na-okna/plastikovye-otkosy-na-okna.html

How to make plastic slopes on windows with your own hands

A variety of modern building materials allows you to quickly and efficiently perform any work related to both the construction of structures and the decoration and repair of finished real estate objects.

Today more and more people prefer metal-plastic structures (windows, balconies, terraces) due to their high technical and economic characteristics and due to their impeccable appearance. In addition, such structures significantly improve the performance of the walls of the house.

List of preparatory works

Measurement, installation and adjustment of plastic windows are performed by specialized teams, which is the key to the correct implementation of all technological measures and gives the customer the right to warranty service. But operations such as installing the slopes of plastic windows, if desired, can be performed on your own.

Slopes are different types, and may differ in color, shape, materials from which they are made. The most common materials used for the production of slopes are the following:

drywall;
plastic, mdf, sandwich panel;
cement mortar;
wood.

Also, a significant advantage of such slopes is their low cost, durability, high speed of installation work (3-4 hours), ease of maintenance, the ability to choose any color segment.

So, after the metal-plastic window has been installed and at least 36 hours have passed (the period of complete solidification of the polyurethane foam), you can install the window slopes.

First you need to decide on the list necessary materials and the tools required for such work. First, it is advisable to purchase plastic, and it is best to give preference to high-quality and solid products.

The initial cost savings when buying a cheap product can result in additional costs associated with the repair of damaged elements.

The thickness of the plastic should not be less than 8 millimeters, and the lengths of the panels should be equal to the specified dimensions of the opening in height and width. Accordingly, the depth of the slope should not be greater than the width of the plastic panel.

Secondly, such Construction Materials: starter strip, F-shaped profile, polyurethane foam, cement mortar, silicone, small screws (bugs), tape, paper clips, insulation.

From the tool, you must have a hammer, a drill with a bat for self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a gun for silicone and polyurethane foam, a trowel, a spatula, a tape measure, and a rag.
When all the necessary attributes are prepared, you can proceed to the procedure for finishing the slopes of plastic windows.

Plastic slope manufacturing technology

The first step is to remove the shipping tape from the profile metal-plastic windows and patch up cement mortar cracks formed from the side of the street. This procedure makes it possible to seal the external assembly seam and hide the foam from direct sunlight, which has a destructive effect on this material.

In principle, any mixture for outdoor use can be used as a mortar, be it a putty or a special mixture based on cement. The external slopes of the windows can subsequently be coated with any dye. After that, you can start internal work.

A starting strip is taken and cut to the size of the window (height, width, height), and then drilled with self-tapping screws to the profile along the perimeter. This strip will be the base for the plastic panel. Then it is necessary to prepare directly the panels for the slopes.

This is done in the following way. First, the top panel is made, for this, plastic is cut out according to the dimensions of the upper part of the opening and installed in the grooves of the starting strip, and then two side panels are made in the same way.

The entire installation is best done using a plumb bob or level. The resulting frame must be made in such a way that the following conditions are met:

between the plastic and the base base of the opening, a gap of at least 20 millimeters was obtained (for filling with foam);
the turning angle of the side slope elements was the same for the left and right sides (measured using a square applied to the window profile in the upper and lower parts on the right and left);
if the elements of the plastic panels protrude excessively above the plane of the opening, then it is recommended to correct their dimensions using a mounting knife;
at the joints of the panels (in all corners), it is advisable to mount the cutoffs of the starting profile, which will allow to cover the unevenness of the cuts.

The next step is to make the F-profile edging. As with plastic, this process must be started from the top element.

The joints of the F - shaped profile must be cut at 45 degrees to each other. A very serious stage in the manufacture of plastic slopes is foaming the resulting voids.

The difficulty lies in not overdoing this process, so that the foam does not rip apart the slopes when it solidifies. To do this, it is advisable to foam the area around the perimeter of the window at the very base and lay the foam with jumpers between the plastic and the old slope.

Another layer of foam is laid along the angle of the slope, and prepared F-shaped profiles are installed in the resulting space, and their fixation is best done using adhesive tape.

When the foam hardens (15-20 minutes), the structure becomes rigid and sufficiently stable. The final step is to coat the cracks with a special sealant or silicone.

In order for the process of installing plastic slopes not to cause great difficulties for the contractor, it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations in the process of performing construction operations:

Use PVC panels of good quality, in color matching the color shade of the window profile;
Before using the panels, remove (cut) the mounting spike from them;
Cut and cut PVC panels using an assembly knife or jigsaw;
In order to prevent deformation of the panels during the foam curing process, you should use polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of expansion, as well as provide mechanical fixation of the slope elements in a given position for the duration of the preliminary setting of the foam (5 - 10 minutes);
If necessary, heat-insulating materials can be laid in the technological gaps between the seamy part of PVC panels and the base base of the opening (before the foaming process);
To quickly remove traces of adhesive tape, it is best to use a cotton swab dipped in acetone;

After making the slope, it is necessary to provide plastering of the part of the opening under the windowsill.
Everything is ready and your slopes will delight you for more than a dozen years. That is, it became clear that do-it-yourself plastic slopes on windows can be made by almost anyone who is a little knowledgeable in the construction industry.

Practical and inexpensive plastic slopes are an excellent solution for decorating window openings. They are easy to clean, they do not need painting, and the service life of PVC panels is at least 10 years. Such windows are free from condensation, mold and peeling plaster and give room for modern technological solutions... To do the installation yourself, study step by step instructions on the installation of slopes, the secrets of the choice of materials and the basic rules of work.

Purity and beauty for many years

Popular myths - TOP-3 customer delusions

"Plastic? But this is not aesthetically pleasing, environmentally friendly and not practical! " - the masters often hear. Nothing like this! It's time to debunk the myths regarding this finishing material:

Plastic is harmful to health. The myth is only partly. Primary plastic does not emit toxic compounds. Unlike the same chipboard or paints and varnishes. But the installation of plastic slopes made from recycled materials is not best idea... After all, they can be extremely unhealthy. Therefore, when choosing panels, you should pay attention to this factor.
PVC slopes spoil appearance windows and look cheap. In fact, correctly installed panels create a harmonious, coherent composition. They give the window a finished look without joints or cracks. But incorrect installation can spoil the appearance of the panels. Or a selection of cheap materials with a thin layer of plastic.
Plastic is short-lived. PVC slopes can last 10, 15 and even 20 years without repair. While plastered need painting every year. But the key to the long service life of sandwich panels is in their correct installation.

Plastic creates a seamless composition

Advantages and Disadvantages of Plastic Panels - An Honest Review

Installation of plastic slopes has many advantages:

Energy efficiency. Insulated sandwich panels significantly reduce heat loss during space heating.
Improving the performance of windows. In an era of fierce competition, unscrupulous manufacturers have already left the market. Therefore, low-quality products are very rare. But the poor finish of the slopes is a significant disadvantage during installation. After all, the weak points of the windows are the nodes of their abutment to the wall. When installing plastic panels, the seam is additionally reinforced with polyurethane foam. Which improves performance such as sound insulation and heat retention.
The presence of a closing circuit that prevents damage to the wallpaper. The profile for plastic not only gives a neat look to the room, but also protects the wallpaper from peeling off at the ends of the walls.
Possibility of using effective sealants. It's all about adhesion! Sealants adhere better to plastic than to plastered surfaces. In this case, the seam is absolutely invisible.
Huge selection of colors, including wood, marble, stone.

The choice of colors is huge

The disadvantages of installing plastic slopes include the ease of scratching. Therefore, no one cancels careful operation!

In comparison with plastic, plastered slopes have a lot of disadvantages:

form cracks;
absorb moisture, becoming a breeding ground for mold;
the paint turns yellow and peels off;
wallpaper leaves at the joints.

Window decoration scheme

Installation steps - the alphabet of construction work

It will take no more than 2 hours to install plastic slopes with your own hands. In comparison, high-quality plastering work will take up to 3 days!

The choice of materials - how to avoid mistakes

Plastic slopes are of two types:

decorative;
sandwich panels (insulated).

Decorative slopes are required in the following cases:

For formal partitions. That is, the design of window openings located between rooms (for example, in an office).
For finishing loggias. The outer slopes of the balcony block cannot be insulated. Because the panels cannot be wound behind the frame. They are hindered by a quarter, laid out of bricks (its purpose is to prevent the window from falling out).

In all other cases, it is more correct to choose a sandwich panel. They consist of two PVC sheets and a layer of insulation between them.

The standard thickness of the slope is 8 mm. But with inaccurate installation, such a panel can easily be squeezed out with foam! Therefore, many craftsmen advise choosing thicker options (for example, 24 mm). This panel is difficult to cut, but it is also much stronger.

Basic rules for choosing panels:

Made from virgin plastic only. Such plastic slopes will not turn yellow over time, and their composition will not harm health.
With a thick layer of plastic. Cheap panels with thin PVC sheets quickly deteriorate. The plastic is simply peeled off the surface.

Window device

In addition to panels, it is imperative to buy profiles - internal (J-profile) and external (C-profile). Together they form a strong anchor-lock that tightly holds the slopes.

Installing plastic slopes with your own hands will also require other materials:

self-tapping screws 51 mm;
PVC dowels;
wooden slats;
Summer foam (2.6);
gypsum mixture for plaster;
mineral wool.

You will need the following tools:

drill;
screwdriver;
electric stapler;
putty knife;
assembly gun with the ability to normalize and adjust foaming.

The window sill must be installed at an angle of 3-5 °

Rough work - preparatory stage

To install plastic slopes with your own hands, use the step-by-step instructions:

The first step is to install the guides. For this, wooden slats 10x40 mm, self-tapping screws 51 mm and PVC dowels are suitable.
The slats must be fixed along the perimeter of the window strictly parallel to the frame. Drill holes through the guides (6-12 cm).
Insert dowels into the holes and tighten with self-tapping screws, sinking them to a depth of 5 mm.
Reinforce the slats with summer polyurethane foam.
Select a groove in the foam joint along the window frame 6 mm deep and 8 mm wide.

Slope slats

Groove in the assembly seam

Fastening process and insulation - how to fix the panels

Attach the connecting inner J-profile to the rails using staples 10-14 mm long. For fastening, a step of 10-25 cm is enough.

Internal J-profile

Attach plastic slopes. Form the construction seam from the foam. To do this, attach a plastic panel and fill the cavity evenly by 15%. Then fill the cavity to 70% with mineral wool. This will reduce heat loss and prevent mold.

Press the panels against the slats and fix them with brackets at an angle of 45 °. This will further increase the pressure and allow the plastic to be pressed well.

Advice! To prevent foam from falling off, you can use props to fix it. These can be lumps of hardened foam or plastic.

The percentage of filling with cotton from 30 to 70%

How to correctly install plastic slopes with your own hands can be seen in the video.

Video: Installation of plastic slopes

Clean up everything - we bring beauty

Before installing the outer profile, align the walls adjacent to the window. To do this, remove the remnants of old wallpaper and apply a quick-hardening mixture.

Then fit the outer C-profile and adjust it to size. To do this, measure the profiles and file them so that the lock is at an angle of 45 °.

Profile fitting

Pressing on the profile, secure it until it clicks. Saw through the plastic with a hacksaw both profiles at their intersection. This will make the seam as neat as possible. Move the corners towards each other by tapping on them.

Drank with a hacksaw

At the end, clean the room, remove all dust and debris with a brush and rag. Degrease the joints and slightly moisten them. After that, apply decorative silicone-acrylic sealant.

Advice! If the room is still to come construction works, giving a lot of dust, it is better to postpone the treatment with sealant. Since it absorbs dust and dirt until it dries completely.

The joints are invisible

The hand of the master - the secrets of a flawless installation

Each business has its own secrets. And, installing plastic slopes with your own hands, it is useful to know them!

Setting the correct angle

The turning angle of the slopes has the romantic name "dawn". Thanks to the correct arrangement of the panels, it is possible to increase the amount of light entering the interior of the room. The main rule: slopes should in no case be located at right angles. This creates the feeling of a hospital room. But you should not make the panels too wide.

The secret to mastery is to measure the angle not in degrees, but in centimeters! How to do it:

Install a square in the corner of the window.

Construction square-perpendicular

Measure the distance from the extreme point (wall) to the perpendicular line.

The ideal value is 3.5 cm. This rule applies to slopes with a width of 15 to 50 cm.

Advice! Measurement in centimeters or millimeters more convenient to use square. Since it is extremely difficult to measure the exact angle on an object.

Slope Dawn Measurement

The upper slope may deviate from this value in a larger direction (be more than 35 mm). But the side panels should be expanded the same way.

Eye meter or laser - how to level the panel

According to regulations, when installing windows and slopes, there is a tolerance of 4 mm. That is, the product can be installed with a deviation from the level. This is necessary, among other things, for aesthetic reasons. After all, the curved walls and ceiling are not very harmoniously combined with the right angles of the windows.

Installing plastic slopes with your own hands, laser level can be put aside. Since you need to focus here on the line of the window! The upper slope must be strictly parallel to the frame. And your own eye will help you with this.

Slopes should be installed relative to the window

How to give the panel the shape of an arch - decorate arched windows

PVC panels are flexible enough to bend at a slight angle. The guide profiles also bend well. But what if the arch is elliptical with a small radius? It is impossible to bend the sandwich panels, as this will lead to their breakage. There are several ways to carry out the installation of plastic slopes:

The flexibility of the panels can be increased by peeling off the inner plastic layer. The remaining material easily takes on the desired shape.
You can mount compound slopes. That is, a structure consisting of several panel parts. In this case, great attention should be paid to joining and seam processing.

Useful life hack - we use slopes with maximum efficiency

What functions can ordinary plastic slopes perform? Only aesthetic and thermal insulating? But no!

Socket on the slope

Why do you need a socket on the window

It is possible, and sometimes just necessary, to mount electric points in plastic panels. After all, the slopes - perfect place for placing sockets and switches!

Workplace often located near the window. This allows more daylight to enter the table, which is important for vision. But often you have to work at the computer at night. And that requires good lighting.

The ideal solution is to install two main light switches. The first is at the entrance to the room, and the second is on the slope next to the workplace. So it will not be blocked by printers and monitors, and you will not have to reach across the table to turn it off. An additional power outlet allows you to always keep your phone close at hand, even when it's charging.

This solution is also perfect for compact kitchens. Nowhere to put an electric kettle or a toaster? Place them on the windowsill, having previously installed the sockets in the slopes! Space saving and comfort are guaranteed.

On the safety of operation of electric points

How safe is it to place electric points next to a wet window?

Moisture does not accumulate inside the insulated panels. Since the temperature there is the same as indoors.
Condensation on the glass is not conductive. Why? Because there are no salts in it, which are the conductors of electricity.
Leaving a window open when it rains can also be a relief. After all, the socket will be protected by the open sash. It is worth remembering that rainwater is not conductive.

Cable inside a plasterboard wall

Installation Process - Installation Tips

How to install plastic slopes with your own hands, placing electric points in them:

Lay the power cable behind the false wall in advance, at the stage of wiring. It will hang down along the slope.

Plaster a false wall made of gypsum plasterboard, paste over it with wallpaper. Install the slopes at the very end. To do this, you first need to cut and try on them. And then - remove and apply polyurethane foam on the back surface.

Preparing the slope for installation

When the foam dries up, you need to try on the slope again. If pieces of foam interfere with firmly pressing the panel, they must be carefully trimmed.

Removing excess foam

Cut holes in the panel for sockets or a switch. Pull wires through them. Apply some fresh foam to the already dried foam to glue the slope to the opening. Fasten the panel with staples as in the previous instructions. This is necessary so that the panel does not bend or come off while using the outlet.

Install plasterboard socket boxes (with "feet"). Then install switches or sockets.

Socket for gypsum board

Want to get the perfect plastic slopes with a minimum of effort? Then contact the professionals. And the knowledge gained will help you control the quality of their work!

After replacement and installation of double-glazed windows, window openings need finishing. And if only a specialist is required to install the window, then perform Finishing work everyone can. This process has simple technology, therefore, it is not at all difficult to install plastic slopes with your own hands. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels are assembled in just 3-4 hours, completely changing the appearance of the window opening.

In order to qualitatively install the slopes, you should thoroughly clean the surfaces of the opening and prepare everything necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and in length and width must correspond to the parameters of the opening. Too thin plastic will not last long, moreover, it can be easily damaged during installation.

In addition to panels, you will need for work:

It is possible to start finishing no earlier than 36 hours after the installation of the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely freeze, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not work to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Manufacturing and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, a vapor barrier film is glued around the perimeter. At the joints, the film segments are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film must not protrude beyond the window frame. After that, they begin to make slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starter profile

A starting profile is screwed on the outer edge of the window frame with short self-tapping screws. At the corners, when connecting the horizontal strip with the vertical ones, the profile is fixed so that its inner walls fit snugly against each other, without gaps and cracks.

Step 2. Fastening wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

Take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. With the help of hammer-in dowels, the strips are fixed along the perimeter with the flat side to the surface so that their edges do not go beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side rails must be set horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not even enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cut the slopes

Very accurately measure the length and width of the walls of the opening, as well as the bevel angle on each side. Cut lines are marked on the panel and blanks of slopes are cut using a jigsaw or a sharp knife.

By the way, about plastering slopes with your own hands - you can read on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the upper part of the opening, check their location and tightness in the corners.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not overlap the groove for fastening the slope. Fix the profile on the rail with staple staples. The rest of the segments are mounted in the same way.

The blank of the upper slope is laid in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with a sealant. Keeping the slope alive, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with insulation. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is inserted into the profile groove and pressed lightly to level the panel.

Next, the side slopes are installed, carefully distributing the thermal insulation material. If the outer walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base base of the slopes are filled with polyurethane foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, as excess foam can squeeze out the panels or bend into an arc. It is advisable to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, apply it in small portions, evenly distributing it over the height of the gap.

Step 5. Final finishing

The places where the panels fit to each other and to the window sill must be well degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean rag dipped in acetone, wipe the traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, plaster the section of the opening under the windowsill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The installation process is slightly different from the installation of window slopes. The preparation of the surface of the opening is carried out in the same way: the frozen foam around the door frame is cut off with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, and all cracks are carefully sealed with a solution. If you plan to fix the slopes on the surface itself, it should be leveled with a cement-sand mortar. If will be used frame technology, it is enough to close cracks and deep recesses.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Installation of the frame

Measure the width of the walls of the opening from the door frame to the corner line. The slats are sawn into pieces according to measurements. On the side walls, horizontal lines are marked with a pencil at a distance of 50-60 cm. Holes for dowels are drilled according to the marking and the slats are fixed. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the slats. 3 transverse bars are attached to the lintel - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Cutting the panels

On the panel, cut lines are marked with a pencil, forming a slope. Especially carefully measure the angle of inclination, because the mismatch of the joints is not always possible to imperceptibly close up. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface to cover the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one for the lintel. After that, the blanks are placed against the walls of the opening and the correct cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Aligning the joints in the corners, mark a fold line with a pencil on the back of the workpiece. With a sharp knife, a vertical cut is made in the cavity of the panel, leaving the entire front side. Again, the slope is applied to the surface, leveled and screwed to the frame with small screws.

When the main part of the slope is fixed, the protruding edge is screwed on. To do this, determine the border of the panel, retreat 2 cm from it to the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed, exposing the screws to the level of the wedges. Heavy wood plugs can be used instead of wedges.

A second side slope is installed, after which the lintel is sheathed with a panel. The top edge of this blank should overlap the ends of the side ridges; after the installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. The inner seams are coated with sealant, the excess is removed with a clean rag, if desired, the caps of self-tapping screws are covered with the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on the door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

to increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a deep penetration primer and dried;
plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
after that, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
until the glue is frozen, align the corners and edges;
side slopes are glued, then the lintel is closed. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

At the end, the vertical seams are sealed, and decorative platbands are attached to the outer perimeter of the opening to match the color of the door and slopes.

Video - DIY plastic slopes

Video - How to make slopes on plastic windows

An important stage in the installation of plastic windows is the design of window openings. Slopes for plastic windows are made of the same material as the windows, or they are finished in a different way. However, nothing is in harmony with the appearance of white PVC windows as neatly installed plastic slopes, hiding all defects in window openings, foam and fasteners. Well-designed slopes give the windows an aesthetic, complete look.

Why install plastic slopes?

Modern plastic windows can be considered ideally installed only if they have neatly designed slopes in compliance with the rules of sealing. Carefully made slopes are aesthetically pleasing, they bear part of the thermal insulation load, preventing fogging assembly seams... With an illiterate finish during the ventilation of windows, due to temperature changes, the structure of building materials is destroyed and the attractiveness of window openings is lost. It is important to install external and internal plastic slopes in stages, in accordance with all the rules, in compliance with the technology.

For those who are not very versed in the terminology, we recall that the slopes are the side surfaces of the walls along the perimeter of the window opening, adjacent directly to the window frame. They are internal, that is, installed on the windows inside the room, and external, overlooking the courtyard of the house. The lower horizontal is usually formed by a window sill. But the side parts of the walls and the upper plane near the window require careful finishing - plastic slopes.

More recently, the slopes were leveled and decorated with wood or plaster for whitewashing. Modern PVC windows are in harmony with the same finish. Since a lot of attention is paid to the quality of finishes today, thin plastic finishes are preferred to be placed on internal slopes.

Old plaster slopes cannot fully provide sound insulation and sealing, and from the cracks near the frame and under the windowsill it often came through, especially in winter. Under the destructive influence of the external environment, the plaster and putty crumbled and fell into disrepair, so everything had to be redone. With the introduction of new technologies for the quick installation of sealed PVC windows, it has become easier to do plastic slopes on windows with your own hands than to arrange window openings in the old way.

One of the additional complications of low-quality windows is condensation, which appears on the windows due to temperature differences. When the joint between the wall and the window frame is made illiterately, the glass unit is too cold, and the windows "cry", forming dampness on the windowsill. Competent finishing of slopes minimizes this factor.

Before the start of the production of plastic windows, it was possible to cope with the problem of condensation due to insufficient sealing with the help of plasterboard slopes and polyurethane foam. They were more effective than the old-fashioned white plaster. This option lends itself better to the insulation of the window opening. However, their main drawback is low moisture resistance, and the installation of plastic slopes solves this problem today.

Today, plastic slopes on PVC windows with double glazing - one-stop solution many problems. For their insulation, mineral wool is usually used to provide the window with effective hydro, heat, and sound insulation.

The main advantages of plastic slopes

If we compare plastic, plastering or plasterboard slopes, then plastic has a lot of advantages:

long-term operation;
perfectly flat texture is in harmony with PVC windows;
aesthetic appearance;
the ability to effectively close all joint defects;
there is a possibility of using flexible platbands;
no need for additional finishing and painting of the window opening;
moderate cost of finishing works;
effective thermal insulation of the opening;
the ability to complete the finishing of the window on the same day as the installation of PVC windows or postpone finishing in order to fulfill certain construction and design tasks;
clean work with quick installation;
if you have a tool, all the work can be done independently and quickly (in 2-3 hours);
simple subsequent operation - the surface is easy to clean and clean;
there is a choice color palette for any stylistic solution;
does not need additional alignment of the window opening after dismantling the old frame;
relatively low thermal conductivity;
high moisture resistance and the ability to easily remove liquid;
protection from freezing.

Thermal insulation of plastic slopes

When replacing old wooden windows, dismantling can significantly destroy the window opening, therefore, all the resulting voids must be filled in order to eliminate the slightest gaps. Sometimes the cracks are not visible, but in the area of the window you feel cold and mold starts, which indicates a depressurization of the seams after installation or poorly performed installation of the window.

If you carry out the finishing and installation of plastic slopes according to all the rules, then they must be properly insulated so as not to transfer a portion of the low temperature into the room. Effective thermal insulation is achieved with sufficient in a simple way- under the layer of plastic, insulation is mounted up to the area where the frame adjoins the window opening.

Several schemes have been developed for insulating the plastic slopes themselves and the zone of adjoining the frame to the opening. Insulation materials are used today different types, and this range is enough to provide reliable protection windows from negative external factors. The easiest way is to solve the problem of efficient window insulation in 2 ways:

fill the space with mineral wool or foam on the inside of the window;
at the junction of the window opening and the PVC frame, fill the cracks with polyurethane foam and close finishing materials from the street side.

For insulation, materials are offered today:

mineral wool;
foam sheets;
sandwich panels;
extruded polystyrene foam;
isover or fiberglass.

Attention: The choice of insulation should be dictated by the width of the gap and the features of the surface of the window opening and the joint with the PVC frame.

Small installation gap within 40-50 mm per smooth surface it is easier to insulate with sheet polystyrene, isover or expanded polystyrene up to 2-3 cm. With a small gap and some irregularities, use mineral wool. Outside the window, the gaps are filled with ordinary foam, it is also used for gross defects in the window opening after dismantling the old frames.

Multilayer walls, which are equipped with an approaching window box insulation, provide sufficient protection from external factors. In this case, it is not necessary to insulate the plastic slopes themselves; it is enough to eliminate all the gaps with foam from the outside. If the building has cold single-layer walls without thermal insulation, then it is recommended to make effective insulation of the slopes with thermal inserts laid along the slopes.

A layer of insulation is fixed over the entire surface of the window opening, without crawling out of the seams. When installing plastic slopes, the thermal insulation layer will be closed. Sometimes a layer of drywall is additionally mounted - to level the knocked down plaster. Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam do not require additional processing when installing plastic slopes with your own hands.

When insulating slopes with foam, the joint with the frame at the window opening is filled with cement mortar. Only after this all dries well, a layer of foam up to 5 mm can be glued onto a flat surface. Outside, the window is protected with extruded polystyrene foam or another method. Any kind of insulation should fit snugly to the surface. With external thermal insulation of window slopes, it is important to ensure the removal of moisture from the assembly seam.

Attention: Insulation of slopes will not be effective if there is no thermal insulation around the perimeter of the window, and the insulation is laid fragmentarily, only on problem areas with surface defects.

To do this, you need an 8 mm plastic sheet, about 6 m., As well as a starting U-shaped and F-shaped strip of plastic or "F-ka". It is convenient to mount them on a 10 - 15 mm wooden rail. From the tools you need a punch or drill, metal scissors, a building level, a square and a pencil for marking. Don't forget self-tapping screws, white sealants, or silicone.

Self-assembly of plastic slopes

There are several ways to install external slopes of plastic windows and prepare the slopes themselves.

3 methods of making plastic slopes are common:

from sandwich panels;
from drywall, covered with strong plastic;
made of foamed plastic.

Sandwich panels with a porous structure do not form condensation, are not afraid of moisture, retain heat and are quite durable. They are available in different types, including glossy and matte, as well as colored and laminated "wood imitation". There is different ways fixing external and internal slopes adjacent to PVC frames, and options for preparing a window opening with cutting parts for plastic slopes.

1. Use an electric saw or metal scissors to cut sandwich panels or thin plastic panels. The starting profile is mounted with dowels in the window opening during the installation of the window. slopes are attached to this base. For installation, galvanized brackets and double-sided mounting tape are used. The brackets are fastened with self-tapping screws, and on their basis the slopes are fixed close to the windowsill. It is better to coat the corners with silicone sealant.

2. Plasterboard slopes with PVC sheets cladding are mounted directly to the drywall with “liquid nails”. It is important to ensure that there are no defects or traces of deformation on the plastic. Their special glossy surface is susceptible to dirt, which is sometimes difficult to remove.

3. Alternatively, foam PVC with a smooth face is used. When cut, it can even be bent to the desired shape using frequent radial cuts, they must be fixed with mounting glue. Otherwise, it has general rules for installation with sandwich panels.

Installation of external slopes

Experts recommend making external slopes for PVC windows from a sandwich panel, the reliability of which has been tested. The material easily withstands the influence of the external environment and is a reliable barrier against cold, precipitation and temperature extremes.

Before starting the installation of external slopes, it is important to make accurate measurements in order to exclude gaps and crevices. The height, width and length of the window openings are measured in order to transfer to the sheet of plastic and hand over the cutting of the panel. After cutting 3 blanks with a circular saw or metal scissors, you can proceed to installation.

First, the upper horizontal part (slope) is fixed, while its base is recessed as deep as possible, and the space in this niche is filled with polyurethane foam. It should not be let in a lot, so as not to warp the plastic, which bends easily when the foam is bursting during hardening. The slope must be pressed to the upper part of the opening, fixing it with construction tape at the anchor points.

When the horizontal slope is checked, you can mount the side parts in the same way, checking the parallelism and compliance with the vertical. Extend the spacers. In the same way, plastic slopes are mounted in wooden house, but it is better to fix them with self-tapping screws.

The structure must stand for a day or two so that the polyurethane foam finally hardens. But if the plastic is stained, it is better to immediately cut off the smudges with a knife and wipe the slope with a rag dipped in a solution of vinegar. After the foam has hardened, the assembly tape and spacers are removed. Next, the decorative corner is fixed with a sealant or transparent silicone.

Installation of internal slopes

Before installing plastic slopes inside the room, it is advisable to complete the wall decoration. The plastic is mounted on a solid solid surface. If a plastered window opening crumbles in an old house when replacing wooden window on PVC, then it is better to knock it down to the base of the wall, and then level it and fill it with insulation. This is not necessary in new buildings.

Perimeter installed window along the inner joint, wooden slats are fastened with self-tapping screws. They are convenient to use for leveling the walls adjacent to the opening. Plastic slopes will be attached to them. The most reliable fastening is according to the starting plastic profile... An F-shaped profile is also mounted on wooden slats, fixed with stapler brackets.

Internal plastic slopes are installed on the finished base, starting from the upper horizontal, under which it is recommended to lay mineral wool... Installation is in many ways similar to the described instructions for external slopes, and the gaps at the joints are also hidden with silicone or white sealant.

Attention: All work on the installation of plastic slopes is carried out on clean, dry surfaces with low or moderate humidity in the room!

The installation of plastic slopes with your own hands is not limited to the description of the above installation technologies, options are possible, for example, plastic slopes - video:

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Do you want to replace / install slopes on plastic windows, but it is expensive to call a master? Or is it your goal to keep track of "wow, these" installers? In any case, you need to be well versed in this matter. See the main stages of work, explaining photos and videos.

Option 1: install with a starter profile

To make slopes on plastic windows in this way, to you materials required: plastic panels or sandwich panels, plastic initial U-profile, mounting angles (or F-profile instead of them), wooden slats, construction adhesive, silicone sealant.

Also need tools: tape measure, construction marker, screwdriver, cutter knife (popularly just a wallpaper knife), screws for plastic panels - "fleas", small dowel-nails.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes on windows takes place in several stages.... They will seem to you the simplest if you have ever installed plastic panels. If not, don't miss it either!

1. Using self-tapping screws, fix the initial profile around the perimeter of the window profile - you will insert the panels into it.

Then, along the perimeter of the opening, use dowels to make a crate of wooden battens. A gap of 8-10 mm must be left between the top rail and the side ones - the panel will enter there.

2. Installation of slopes on plastic windows starts from the top panel. First, it is cut in length (and width, if necessary) with a cutter. Then one end is inserted into the profile, and the other is screwed to the rail with "fleas" by the protruding end (thorn). Do not worry about the appearance - you will hide the caps of the screws under the corner.

After that, the installation of the side slopes of the plastic windows is done.

To prevent the platbands from falling off, they are fixed with construction tape for a couple of hours.

4. The final stage of the installation of internal slopes is the sealing of the joints. The sealant is applied with a pistol. And then spread with a small rubber spatula.

That's the whole instruction - get it done freely in half a day. Moreover, you will have time to smoke 10 times!

If you need more information, see video: Installation of slopes of plastic windows

Option 2: installation without starting profile

Fastening the slopes of plastic windows in the first way has a drawback: the U-profile after installation is very clearly visible. And if you consider that the colors of the slope and the profile are sometimes very difficult to choose ...

Foam slot - instead of starting profile

1. Use a wallpaper knife around the window frame to make polyurethane foam slot. It should be 1 mm wide and 1 cm deep.

2. After constructing the lathing, insert the panels with a spike into the resulting socket. And screw the opposite end in the same way.

3. If you are using panels without fasteners, such as sandwich panels, you can make the spike yourself.

To make a spike, the sandwich panel is cut with a wallpaper knife, first across and then along - to separate the insulation and the bottom layer. The homemade spike for attaching sandwich panels is ready!

On the side of the panel that will be adjacent to the window, draw a strip 1 cm wide.Then carefully cut along the line to cut only upper layer and insulation. Make a cut from the end and remove the "excess". So, the bottom layer will remain intact. It is something that is inserted into a homemade groove.

The rest of the technology for installing slopes No. 2 is similar to technology No. 1. So don't get confused.

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