Is it possible to mount the hl on a wooden frame. How to fix drywall to a wooden wall without profiles with self-tapping screws? Mounting the gypsum board on the base

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, use partitions made of gypsum fiber board or drywall. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after the end of the work there is little dirt and dust. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.

Types of materials

In addition to the standard gypsum board, the following types of material are distinguished:

  • moisture resistant;
  • fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, while fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).

GKL is great for decorating living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the room's microclimate naturally.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from plaster of paris with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction; it does not have a cardboard sheath, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

  • GVL is heavier than GCR;
  • costs more.

Characteristics of the timber frame

GKL fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

The wood frame is cheaper than metal, it is made from wooden planks and bars, usually coniferous wood is used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where there will be massive objects on the wall (mirror or cabinet).

Material requirements:

  • The moisture content of the wood is from 12 to 18%;
  • Fire-fighting treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
  • The wall thickness must not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective agents against fire and pests, and are viewed for knots and irregularities.

Fixing the base

The screwing of drywall parts onto wooden slats should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal level, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Structural tools:

  • hammer;
  • puncher;
  • nails;
  • building level;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • mounting dowels;
  • metal corners.

If the structure needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.


Base attachment technology

Stages of work:

  • Pre-mark the partition on the ceiling using a level, then fix it wooden frame;
  • Fasten the strapping beams starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, followed by the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws are suitable). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then the fastening is made with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
  • Having fastened the bars to the ceiling, markings are carried out on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to fasten the frame.
  • After checking the correspondence of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical beams. The distance between them is kept at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these beams with high quality, since the main load will be on them.
  • After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting the gypsum board on the base

Plating begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. Fasten them with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.


Cladding

When sheathed with material only on one side, then lay the insulation and stretch the electrical wiring before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling the cables, if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of uprights and horizontal lintels.

Newbie tips:

  • When installing the second side of the wall, shift the sheet one step so that the structure comes out strong;
  • To avoid problems with fasteners, make sure that the joints of the gypsum board fall exactly in the middle of the vertical posts.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing difficult in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.


Insulation of the structure

For this, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam are suitable. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Dealing with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify unevenness with a bar. For this:

  • Lay a timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
  • Lean the upright timber vertically, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to evenly install the frame so that the whole structure comes out even.

If you have difficulties with plasterboard cladding, a video will help:

Benefits of using GCR

This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:

  • low cost and assembly costs;
  • little weight;
  • quick installation;
  • the best sound and heat insulation;
  • the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
  • alignment of walls;
  • installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
  • after installation, there is little debris and dust.

If everything is done correctly, the final touch will be to decorate the wall. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

gipsohouse.ru

Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks: 7 secrets of good fastening

It is possible to sheathe the walls with plasterboard using a frameless connection method or using a support frame. design ideas can be realized with such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is used everywhere now: with the help of it they build interior partitions, trim window slopes, sheathe the walls from the inside and outside, finish the ceiling, the interior is also popular decorative trim premises. There are several ways of plasterboard wall cladding: frameless connection and the use of a support frame. Most often for wooden surfaces the second method is used, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that the plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Features of the timber frame:

  1. First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden blocks, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that moisture can be detrimental to a frame made of wood slats.
  2. Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they should be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
  3. The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with fire safety standards.
  4. Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more commonly recommended.

Before sheathing the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house, saturate the walls with an antiseptic compound

Wood is an environmentally friendly material that is pleasant to work with.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the advantages of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall structures, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a worthy competitor from a wooden frame to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

  • Material availability and low cost.
  • High construction speed.
  • Environmental friendliness.
  • Easy to operate.

You can mount drywall on wooden slats - it's simple and affordable

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left inside the installation room for several days for acclimatization.

Wall decoration in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work

In any construction business, you cannot do without special tools. To make the work run smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need to work with drywall is listed below.

Instruments:

  1. Drill or screwdriver;
  2. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
  3. Roulette;
  4. Marker or indelible pencil.

Before you start decorating the walls, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools

Materials:

  • Wooden slats and bars;
  • Self-tapping screws, screws;
  • Metal corners.

Any Finishing work start, first of all, with cleaning work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be covered with a special primer to avoid the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: making a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent decay and destruction of the material.

A few tips before going to work:

  1. The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
  2. The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of the drywall sheets among themselves, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
  3. It is better to fasten the slats directly to the wooden wall and to each other. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.

You can sheathe a wooden house from the inside using a frame made of wooden beams

The assembly of the frame itself should be started by attaching solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper bars between the vertical bars. Parts of the frame can be fastened together with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to attaching drywall sheets to the resulting rails and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

Before you start attaching the drywall sheets to the frame, you need to cut them. When cutting drywall, be careful and careful, use quality tools that will ensure your safety.

To cut drywall sheets you will need:

  • Long rail or long level;
  • Pencil or marker;
  • Sharp knife;
  • Roulette.

First of all, we measure the required length and width of the drywall sheet. Next, cut through the first layer of paper with a knife and break off the plasterboard base of the sheet along the cut line. Then we cut through the paper of the sheet from the other side, bending it at an angle of 90®, and sand the uneven ends with sandpaper or a file.

Before fastening, the drywall sheets must be cut

When calculating the size of the sheet, you need to take into account that you will place them with an offset.

Before installation, you may encounter a problem such as cutouts. They can be on the edge and in the middle of the sheet. If the cut is located on the edge, with a jigsaw or hacksaw, you need to cut two parallel lines in the opposite direction from the edge and break the drywall sheet. To make a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to saw through three lines and break.

How to align walls with plasterboard in a wooden house: installation of plasterboard sheets on a frame

After preparing the drywall, you can proceed directly to attaching it to the crate. To do this, we close the sheet to the rails and fix them with self-tapping screws. One edge of the sheet should be as close to the wall as possible. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be below the level of the sheet.

Important points:

  • Screws and self-tapping screws should be wood: they are better fixed in wood.
  • The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
  • Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

You can align the walls in a wooden house using a frame on which sheets of drywall will be attached

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or plasterboard partitions in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

  • Putty knife;
  • Special putty;
  • Reinforced tape or mesh;
  • Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring the putty.

To process walls or partitions in the house, you will need a putty, reinforced tape, an electric drill and a putty knife.

You need to start work with the preparation of a putty mixture. We recommend using a special joint filler. Also find a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

To avoid cracks in the seams, work should be carried out after establishing a constant temperature and humidity in the room.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the seams of the drywall, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape of the required size and glue it to the processed seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the self-tapping screws on the drywall, you need to apply a standing putty to the desired place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can, if you wish, prepare the wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technologies when plastering wooden walls with plasterboard, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (process photo)

homeli.ru

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

We will only talk about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate sequence for making cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the battens and cut them to size. When cutting the racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the wall length.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over the door and window openings, slightly shifting the vertical short bars so as not to make cutouts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste over the gypsum board) window and door openings inside. Nail drywall sheets onto the walls.

5. Nail the sheets around the window and doorways.

6. Close up the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly flat, therefore, when making plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The great difficulty is the alignment of the battens vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Installation of the frame with an uneven wall is performed as follows. First, the unevenness of the wall is revealed. The cut out lower horizontal bar of the future frame is placed on the floor against the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Marking is carried out for racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack beam vertically to the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor with the outside edge running along the outside line of the mark. Install vertical beams on the support, leveling their outer surfaces, inserting, if necessary, spacers. The evenness is checked with a plumb line, level and rule. The horizontal bar is fixed at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two extreme racks (vertical bars) and pull the cord between them. Then they install intermediate racks and check the evenness of the installation along the cord.If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then all the other bars are exposed.

To level the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the required thickness. You can apply a little wood glue to the spacers before hammering into the blocks. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and there is a gap in any of its middle part (concave wall).

In case of a large deflection, the distance between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, it is possible to simplify the process of installing the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Supporting beams are inserted into the resulting frame with a step of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies with its front side on a flat floor, it will already have a flat surface when assembled. Therefore, the stage of alignment of each bar according to the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix it with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for conventional (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using an electric drill. To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked the partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm so that the drill at the exit makes marks on the wall. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars has to be performed without a partner, then they do this. Find the location point for one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which a dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark on the wall is obtained. After that, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing the screw a little) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of a drill with a victorious tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Plasterboard wall cladding can be started either from the corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the cladding to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL is attached around the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - not less than 10 mm from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard and not less than 15 mm from the edge of the unlined edge. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the sheets of drywall for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the drywall sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be putty and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets when facing are placed with an offset of adjacent end joints (sprawling), and transverse beams are mounted at the joints.

Source: P. Smirnova - Plasterboard. Step by Step: An Encyclopedia of Modern Renovation

niola-td.ru

Wooden frame for drywall - how to assemble it yourself? + Video

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability supporting structure made of metal profiles.

Gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) is a rather complex material of a composite type. It is made from gypsum, cardboard and various additives. The latter give the drywall special qualities. The main ones are high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using gypsum board, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:

  • standard;
  • fire resistant;
  • moisture resistant.

Types of drywall sheets

GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers(for example, Knauf) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for finishing floors. Due to the fact that GCR does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally friendly) and is characterized by an acidity indicator that is approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used to conduct renovation works in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms... It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Nowadays, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for performing various types of repair work. They make and simple constructions, and chic multi-level structures. Due to this, you can create in your home the most modern bright and original design.

There are the following technologies for mounting drywall sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of gypsum board is allowed only on a flat wall. But using the frame technique, drywall fixing can be done on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless method for installing gypsum board

Frame technology installation of gypsum board is a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for laying electrical wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the skeleton of the structure and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of drywall sheets on the wall can be easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repairs will erect a skeleton for the gypsum board in a matter of hours. And then he will also quickly perform the fastening of drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal shaped products. But there is also an easier-to-follow technique. It makes it possible to erect skeletons for gypsum board from light and easy-to-install wooden products (slats, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.

The frame for fixing the gypsum board on the wall is recommended to be built from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo a special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of beams or slats. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. Such processing will protect the frame from:

  • rodents (the smell of an antiseptic is good at scaring off mice and other animals that can damage the structure);
  • mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
  • carpenter insects;
  • biological natural decay.

Antiseptic wood protection is allowed to be done by hand. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to stir the purchased mixture in well heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process all the elements of the future frame for drywall with the resulting composition.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic wood protection

Fluoride antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is not toxic to humans, does not have any odor, and does not decompose during operation. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. An almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium fluorosilicate. It is also allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, you should add a little soda (soda ash) to it.

Do not perform antiseptic processing of wood with compounds containing the following components:

  • anthracene oils;
  • coal;
  • creosote;
  • slate.

The effect of using them will be good. But for human health, they are harmful, since they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before equipping the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to let wooden products lie in the room where you will build the structure. Within 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to moisture and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The structure of interest to us is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools - a hacksaw or a saw, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a level. Self-tapping screws for drywall, stainless screws and nails, mounting dowels are used as fasteners.

An important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where the wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also advisable to install such a structure when decorating walls in rooms with a height of 3 or more meters. Do-it-yourself adhesive technology for installing gypsum boards in such high rooms recognized by professionals as inappropriate.

Installation of gypsum board on a frame structure

A wood frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

  1. Analyze the condition of the wall surface. Fill up any irregularities found with putty (plaster), clean the areas with peeling old coating.
  2. Mark the wall. Perform this operation with strict adherence to levels and angles (use measuring instruments).
  3. The horizontal bar is mounted first. It should be secured to the floor base with anchors.
  4. Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed timber. They should be approximately 1 cm away from the edge of the sheathing.The distance between the individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
  5. Check the level of the correct location of the rails.
  6. Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, the made frame should be aligned. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal bar can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of wood-shaving products under it. After aligning the skeleton, rigidly fasten all its parts. That's the whole technology for assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to start installing the gypsum board on a do-it-yourself skeleton.

The installation of drywall sheets should be started from the window or doorway of the room, or from its far corner. GKL are fastened with self-tapping screws for wood. The step of mounting hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws no more than 3.5 cm long.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with serrated galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the gypsum board (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. On the end parts of the gypsum board, special edges are provided. On them, you will subsequently easily close up the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).


How to properly sheathe walls with plasterboard

Various materials are used to work with drywall. The most common method of constructing profile metal frames, however, quite often you can also find wooden structures.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It should be said that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, therefore it requires additional processing.

Mounting drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.

Wood preparation

Physical properties

The frame for drywall is made of high-quality coniferous wood.

They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Basic physical characteristics:

  • Humidity from 12 to 18%;
  • For W121 partitions with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, use a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for lathing;
  • For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while, depending on the height, different thicknesses of gypsum boards are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
  • The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
  • Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
  • Connection on nails, thorns and self-tapping screws is allowed, while thorns are the most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable connection;
  • The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be between 50 and 60 mm;
  • The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
  • The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood must lie for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

You should use high-quality sawn timber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with fire retardants and the passage of the relevant examinations by the authorized bodies.

Chemical treatment

Antiseptic treatment is a condition for a long service life of sawn timber.

In addition to fire-prevention treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo an antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

  • Fungal and mold microorganisms... A tree can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and destroyed;
  • Biological decay... Wood is an organic material that is susceptible to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. For conservation, antiseptic treatment is required.
  • Carpenter insects... Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
  • Rodents... Also dangerous for wood. Antiseptic treatment scares these animals away.

Pest insects can spoil wood in a short time.

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water... The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.

Sodium fluoride sinks well into wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode metal, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Strong enough antiseptic.

An example of damage to wood by fungal mycelium.

Sodium fluorosilicon is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.

It is unacceptable for residential premises to use oily antiseptics:

  • creosote,
  • coal,
  • shale,
  • anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame for drywall

To Trace Partition-to-Wall Connection Lines

Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.

Before proceeding directly with the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also How to Build a Drywall Partition: Features.)

To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the gypsum board sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to move it down the wall with a plumb line. To do this, we hammer in a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

Use a center weight with an axis indicator as a plumb line.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

This can be done by building the so-called "Egyptian triangle": right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where the 3rd and 4th correspond to the legs, and 5 - the hypotenuse.

In this case, we lay one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we draw a circular arc in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.

Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.

By connecting the intersection of these arcs to the original bottom point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line along this perpendicular on the floor - the second line of our partition.

In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the bottom and top points and get the third line. (See also the article Drywall niches in the wall: how to make.)

Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line... Thus, we must get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long one from the calculated point.

Frame mounting

Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical, as well as horizontal beams. The installation of the frame should be started from the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, the bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with self-tapping screws or thorns to ceiling beam, floor logs and walls.

If the building is stone, we fix the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

The Knauf bracket can be used to fix the planks to the wall.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge on both sides of the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and ceiling, we use an impact drill with a drill on concrete.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers.

When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.

  • To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The width of the opening should be 4 - 5 centimeters wider than the door frame.
  • We install risers and strengthen them with additional bars, as in the photo.
  • At the height of the door frame plus 2 - 3 centimeters, we install a horizontal lintel, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling strip.
  • Vertical beams give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

    • Racks

    Racks should be installed strictly vertically on the level.

    To determine the location of the lintel (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and in place of its edge we place a lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

    Advice!
    To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal strips designed for assembling rafter systems.
    These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.

    We check every detail by level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be strictly horizontal.

    You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of gypsum board. This will save time and material.

    All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.

    The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.

    Sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is a topic for a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

    It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality sawn timber, and dealing with low-quality timber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

    Tool

    To work, you need a standard set of tools for wood.

    So, you will most likely need a set like this:

  • Hammer;
  • Hacksaw for wood;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Impact drill with a drill for concrete;
  • Construction knife;
  • Plumb line;
  • Level;
  • Pencil;
  • Roulette;
  • Square;
  • Fomka;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Coated thread;
  • Screws;
  • Dowel;
  • Brackets.

    • If you don't have a hammer drill or screwdriver, you can rent one from a home improvement store. Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.

    Thick mats can be used to avoid laying the cotton wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a mesh or other base that prevents caking of the material.

    Conclusion

    Assembling a wooden frame under the gypsum board is a simple job and does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of the assembly of the structure.

    This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wooden blocks and make installation of drywall on wooden frame light and fast.

    Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame

    Wall and ceiling cladding indoor spaces- it is fast, inexpensive and fairly easy-to-use modern method finishing of interiors of civil and public houses.

    There are several options for plasterboard sheathing (GKL):

    • Direct installation, it can be done using gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have an even prepared base
    • Wooden or metal carcass under drywall should be used if the work surface has distortions, strong waviness, tuberosity and other irregularities

    As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements - a rail, a bar, a board can serve. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.

    Can drywall be mounted on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase rather expensive metal profiles. However, a wooden plasterboard frame is not recommended for use when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boilers, showers and bathrooms.

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    Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall

    How to make a wooden plasterboard frame? If a partition is sheathed, this is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical planks and the inner layer from horizontal boards. If the installation of the partition is done carefully and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for drywall from boards, to which without any preparation, using self-tapping screws, panels from gypsum boards can be attached.

    The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, since this will lead to an overspending of material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, brick, logs, as well as old skewed walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for plasterboard.

    Many people are interested in whether it is possible to mount drywall on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) as applied to the installation of gypsum board is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on the bars practically do not differ from each other.

    Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame

    Is it possible to mount drywall on wooden blocks if they are simply fixed to walls or ceilings? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. In how to fix the timber to the drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a timber will help.

    For drywall, the most widespread are panels with the following dimensions: 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. At the same time, the installation of panels on a frame structure made of wood different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, hardened, etc.) has the same scope of work.

    Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools

    For determining the required amount GKL plates should draw a sketch plan of the unfolded walls and ceiling with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, under heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one gypsum board has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and unforeseen costs), which will be the number of panels required.

    • for fixing adjacent slabs - with dimensions 80 x 25 mm (first type)
    • for intermediate vertical and horizontal fastenings - with dimensions 40 x 25 mm (second type)

    It is necessary to plot the vertical and horizontal axes on the plan, along which the frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of drywall to wooden blocks. Its constructive scheme will be:

    • two vertical beams of the first type with a length of 2500 mm at the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the axis of 1200 mm
    • two vertical beams of the second type with a length of 2500 mm, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
    • six horizontal beams of the second type, installed at the top and bottom of the slab
    • three intermediate ones, which must be installed along the axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the slab; the length of the outer beams will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 = 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 = 360 mm

    Additionally, beams of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal bar is replaced with a bar with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical bars of the first and second must also be increased type and the upper bar of the second type is installed.

    After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased on the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased knotty in them.

    Before using for at least one week, the entire set of wood planks must be cured in the room in which it will be used. After that, rejection should be carried out, and the remaining should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage by fungi and mold, fire retardants, which impart fire-retardant properties. Deep penetration impregnations are now commercially available to protect the wood and prevent warping when the humidity in the room fluctuates within a fairly wide range.

    When manufacturing and installing the frame, you must follow the drawn plan.

    Required tools

    Tools and equipment that will be required to complete the work:

    • hacksaw
    • construction knife
    • building corner
    • steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long
    • bubble level
    • water level (with ceiling lining)
    • plumb line
    • hammer
    • electric screwdriver
    • ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use self-made construction goat-scaffolds
    • protective devices (gloves for hands, goggles, respirators)

    General Provisions

    Assembling the frame and installing it from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment is required in the horizontal and vertical planes with the constant use of a plumb line, level, construction square and rail-rule.

    If the length and width of the room allow, the enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. In this case, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.

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    The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other when using right-angled sections of a sheet of sheet metal of the required width (25 mm) or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with screws.

    The installation of fragments of the frame on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called "plugs", when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point on the wall, into which it is installed a wooden chopik, into which, in turn, a nail is hammered through a frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of a chopik, you can use a plastic nail with a metal self-tapping screw.

    After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form, which should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use polyurethane foam or wood wedges and pads combined with wood glue such as PVA. Otherwise, a wooden frame for drywall on a wall (or ceiling) will have increased instability and may deform when installing gypsum plasterboard panels.

    Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

    After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can start attaching the drywall to the wooden frame by directly mounting the gypsum board panels. The following instruction will help in how to fix the bars to drywall.

    To mount a drywall sheet, it must be tightly pressed against the mounted frame structure made of wood, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type of timber with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.

    Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the gypsum board sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to make a mistake with twisting, on the drywall sheet from the outside it is better to draw lines with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.

    After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, look for its verticality and absence of distortions using a plumb line, and on the ceiling using a level.

    Then the sheet can be fastened to the uprights. When tightening screws, it should be taken into account that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet should be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.

    82355861..82355861..82355861-300x235.jpg 300w "sizes =" (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px ">

    Instructions on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the gypsum board on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal crate is also arranged in the form of a frame, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. Enlarged frame elements for ease of installation are also better pre-mounted on the floor.

    In order to mount a frame made of plasterboard timber on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use props and braces that can help you install drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.

    Fastening drywall to a timber is one of two ways to decorate a room on a frame, although less common. is fraught with many nuances that are absent when used. Still, the use of wood is possible and does not even lose its relevance, especially when. Is it possible to fix plasterboard sheets on a wooden beam, and what should you know and take into account when working with such material?
    The process of attaching drywall to a wooden beam

    It is possible to assemble a frame from a bar for drywall in any premises of the residential and non-residential premises.

    • living rooms with wooden walls;
    • utility rooms of a dwelling made of wood;
    • at dachas;
    • outbuildings (sheds, garages and others);
    • in residential buildings and apartments;
    • on balconies and in apartment buildings.
      Ready-made wooden frame for installing drywall in the loggia

      However, when used in unheated utility rooms, good waterproofing is required, and the timber itself must be dried and treated with at least a paint and varnish coating.

      It is best to use modern protective impregnations for wood, or drying oil, but last option today they are practically not produced.

      Why use a frame made of timber, if it can easily be replaced by a metal profile, and can it be done?

      Advantages and disadvantages of wooden frames

      What are the advantages of a wooden frame over the already classic counterparts from a metal profile:

      But, the ideal material does not exist, the bar also has its drawbacks. This is a shorter service life in comparison with metal counterparts, flammability, the possibility of damage by insects and rodents.

      Mounted wooden frame for drywall sheets
      However, the main disadvantages of wooden battens can be called low resistance to moisture and the inability to assemble a non-standard curved frame.
      However, the gypsum board can be attached to the timber, but observing the technology and carefully choosing the material.

      The choice of timber for the lathing

      If it is decided to collect, then the choice of material must be approached very carefully.
      The list is as follows:


      After purchasing the material, all slats must be inspected again and treated with protective impregnations, or at least painted. This will protect the forest from moisture penetration.
      It is important to remember that it is necessary to store the timber and slats in a horizontal position, otherwise curved racks will turn out over time during vertical storage.

      What you need to work

      Scroll necessary tools for assembling a wooden frame differs from equipment for working with metal profiles.
      Required tools:

      It is necessary to purchase and Additional materials: , .
      Mounting corners are sized according to the section of the timber, if it has sides of 50 × 50, then the hardware is preferably the same. This will provide a secure fit.

      Different kinds mounting angles

      How to assemble a frame and fix drywall

      The assembly work begins with marking and fastening the timber, which will serve as guide profiles. collected according to the following algorithm:

      • If the room has a wooden floor, then on the ceiling you can simply assemble a crate by attaching slats across the load-bearing beams;
      • On the floor and ceiling, lines are drawn where the guides will be laid, the distance from the wall is chosen optimal for leveling the surface and laying thermal insulation when (if it is planned);
      • A guide bar is laid according to the marks and holes for fasteners are drilled through it. At this stage, you will have to change the drills, having drilled holes in the wood initially, you will need to change them for the concrete of the ceiling and floor;
        Laying the runners on the floor
      • on the right and left along the walls, they are installed on a rack with an emphasis on the guides, they are also attached to the walls with dowels-nails. Additionally, they are reinforced with mounting corners at the top and bottom;
      • At a considerable distance from load-bearing wall along the lines where the racks will be installed, direct suspensions are attached. Fixing the fittings is also provided with dowels-nails, or fasteners suitable for the wall material;
        Scheme of fastening a wooden frame to a log house
      • Racks are mounted on the guides, they are connected to the supporting bars by the corners and connected to the suspensions. It is better to fasten fittings to wooden racks with press washers, their wide caps will securely fix all elements. The number of racks is calculated at 3-4 pieces per 1 sheet of drywall;
        The scheme of fastening the racks to the timber
      • In a checkerboard pattern, cross-members must be installed in the frame between the posts. Fasteners are provided with corners. The arrangement is changed alternately above and below, alternating through 1-2 sheets;
      • When laying the insulation in a wooden frame, it must be covered with a steam - a barrier. The wiring is enclosed in corrugated plastic pipe and mounted with brackets on racks.
        Scheme for installing insulation inside a wooden frame

      A similar technology is used to assemble a frame from a bar to the ceiling. At the same time, a continuous crate is made without staggering the crossbars. The video tells about the installation of a wooden frame under drywall.

    Plasterboard wall cladding provides for the device or wooden beams. Metal lathing is predominantly used, it is more durable and more practical.

    In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, for the construction of the frame, it is permissible to use wooden blocks, humidity 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. In places with high humidity, as well as where it is required to increase the fire resistance of structures, only a metal frame is used.

    What kind of timber is needed

    For the device of wooden frames, choose a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: moisture - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

    What fasteners and connection methods are needed

    The connection of the frame parts, their fastening to the wall and ceiling are performed dowel-nails... V concrete surfaces holes are pre-made with a perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

    Additional fasteners include metal corners... They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The fastening of the guides of the wooden beams is carried out in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).

    The metal plate is applicable for both walls and ceilings

    The connection of the elements of the wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws angled or metal perforated corners... The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical posts are attached directly to the wall. If it is a curve, it is leveled with special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.

    Requirements for materials and rules of work

    In the set of rules for design and construction, there are basic requirements that must be met to create a strong frame and the subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

    1. All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
    2. In the space between the frame and the rough base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, and fire insulation material;
    3. Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
    4. GKLVO sheets (moisture-resistant) are used in rooms with an air humidity of no more than 90%, a temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used for surface treatment;
    5. To fasten GKL sheets with a thickness of no more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
    6. With the longitudinal placement of the sheets, the step of their fastening is made no more than 60 cm, with the transverse - no more than 1.25 m;
    7. To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide rails, the ceiling and the floor;
    8. Fixation of sheets to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm, (spacing) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge ​​with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
    9. The joints of the sheets with their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, with the horizontal - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
    10. The pitch of the load-bearing beams on the ceiling is 50 cm with the transverse arrangement of the gypsum board, 40 cm - with the vertical one;
    11. The step of fixing the gypsum board on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.

    Step by step instructions for construction

    The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the end of the wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after finishing and laying engineering communications... All work is carried out in the following order:

    1. Markup;
    2. Frame assembly;
    3. Installation of sheets;
    4. Finishing work.

    1. Markup

    On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is applied with a chopping cord, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is carried out with a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical pillars, taking into account the selected step, are noted.

    Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and, if necessary, increase or decrease the step of the profiles in the right places.

    2. Assembling the frame

    Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of ​​the room should be framed around the perimeter.

    Insulation is laid in the frame

    Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you must take this into account at the calculation stage by placing the starting bar at a tedious distance from the wall.

    At the second stage, vertical beams are mounted with the selected step. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is strengthened with racks located horizontally between them.

    Laying of communications

    If it is planned to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical beams, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

    3. Installation of sheets

    Sheets are placed on the frame, adjusted close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal planes (alternately). Self-tapping caps are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

    Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, placing it at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.

    Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of plasterboard edge. The putty compound is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are processed using a reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with a solution, produce finishing the surface of the sheets with the subsequent placement of the facing material.

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