House of wooden bars. Building houses from timber

I wanted to build a house. Immediately collided with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but the house wanted to get reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the proposals of the modern building market, I decided to stay on

On the forums they advise to build houses from the section 15x15 cm. But I had to build myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I did not want to attract third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter bar. Instead, it bought a dry material with a cross section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood gives a shrinkage, I will warm the wall outside the mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

In order to further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story for an example of manual and navigate the situation.

Pouring foundation

At first I cleared the platform for the house from garbage, bushes and other interfering things. After that, it began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time, what type of foundation is suitable specifically for my locality. He studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. This helped me a specialistic reference book. Additionally, I asked the neighbors, on what foundations of their houses.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions allow you to save on the arrangement of foundations, therefore most of the neighbors have a house on lungs from limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse to reinforce - such here we have a wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, "buming" it is not. Water takes deeply, and wooden houses Weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need for the arrangement of blunt monolithic supports in my region.

Began to do with a trench. To begin with, removed a fertile ball. It seemed sand. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then laid out the trenches with a stone and paved two reinforcement rods. Tied them in the corners. I think the ribbon is best reinforced both below and at the top. So did.

To save yourself from excess work, it would be possible to order a ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region it turned out to be unreal - there is no such proposals. Yes, and I have such a plot that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don't need this.

Alas, so save it is not in every region. For example, if I live somewhere in the suburbs, I would have to make a formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the construction mixture.

While concrete is gaining strength (and it needs to be 3-4 weeks), I will deal with the preparation of consumables.

Prices for bar

Learn more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Proper billet

The connection of the crown of the bar is performed using wooden brazing. I decided to make them from screaming boards left from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of roofing crate.

For copiers, it should be used as hard as possible wood. The process of manufacturing fasteners is extremely simple. I took the cutting board and braided them on one side with the help of the appropriate saw.

Then I put emphasis and started sawing into size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful billets.

Spaws saw with a ribbon saw. At the exit, I got a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I pointed the blank with an ax on each side and got my brand.

Preparation of moss

Brazen, peat moss sphagnum and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of a bar, professionals are usually insulated with rolled materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - it is enough to roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, for the convenience and ease of processing you have to pay.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. First, this material is full of nature - go, but collect. Secondly, Moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally stated thematic forums: Moss is actively used as an interventory insulation, and there are no negative responses about it.

For insulation, a red or peat moss is best suited. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second after drying becomes fragile. If possible, it is best to use a red moss. You can find it easy - these are long stems with leaflets resembling a Christmas tree.

Production of Kosyakov

I do them for every door and window openings. For this I use a smooth bar. Suchkov, if possible, should not be in general. For more convenience, I made improvised workbench directly near the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal propuls. In this, the disk saw helped me. Excess material removed with the help of the chisel.

Make the right cant forces not even every professional at the carpenter. Therefore, shoals for windows I decided to make a simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a pair of vertical shoals. The horizontal connection will be answered directly the window block.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, I came up with how to simplify the task. Instead of sample (in the photo she is shaded) I decided to glue the bar. For this, the plane is in advance. The result was not worse than it would be in a situation with the use of a quarter.

Reduce the number of jambs in the doorway can not - all four are needed. However, the shape of products can be significantly simplified.

I chose in Bruke, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the deepening in the side shocks. This allowed me to put on the lower bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to chop the eyes across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a disk saw, I prepared the propelles, pre-setting the appropriate disk output and making a parallel focus.

Then I took the first drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for copilyons. At the end, a smooth rectangle across wood fibers sawed. A saber saw helped in this.

Carpenters are usually done in the threshold two rectangular nests, and from the bottom of each vertical jamber, they are decorated with a response protrusion, firing and drinking excess wood with the help of the chisel. I decided to make holes, like for fasteners, and scored a pair of fasteners. Similar holes made at the bottom of the shoals.

The upper horizontal bar, I have not yet trottered, and a small board nailed to the threshold - it will take the "quarter" functions. The design of the opening was obtained extremely simple, however, it does not interfere with its main function. In the future, I put the opening and bow the "quarter".

Required tools

For the construction of a house from a wooden bar, I used the following tools and devices:

• unstressed electric drill;
• disk saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electrolake;
• corolnic;
• saber saw;
• plumb;
• a hammer;
• water hose;
• ax.

For cutting a wooden bar bought a disk saw. I had to saw in two approaches. First, by the carbon died line, after which I cut, turned the bar and reversed again. On the second face of timber, the line is best transferred, too, with the use of the coal. If you are confident in your "charming", you can saw "on the eye".

Using the disk saw, I made spikes and recesses for the corner connections of BRUSEV. When arranging spikes, I lacked a small depth of propil, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Build house

Line of the Lower Cross

Laying the starting crown is traditionally performed with a compound known as "in the floor of the tree". This node without any problems is made by disk saw - enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of the cut was insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which it got rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that connects with the help of nails.

Lower crown I put on the lining from the boards. Between the elements turned out to be gaps - in the future I will make a product there. In my region, they are usually in the wall, and not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. First, to do products in the wall easier and faster. Secondly, on some elevation, the wind moves with a greater speed than directly from the ground, so that the underground will be better ventilated.

Brous cutting. Connection "in Polterev"

On the lining, I'm going to mount the floor beams - as I think the load on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Lining and a lap of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid in the very bottom rotates faster. In my situation, there are lining down, and not a bar itself. In the future, if the boards are rotated, they can be replaced with much less effort than the Lower Cross.

Prices for saber saw

sabelnaya Pila

Features of laying the second and next crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I joined the timber with indigenous spikes - the usual adjoining of the elements here is unacceptable.

Taking a disk saw, steamed a pair of propilov. On the second face, the cut line was transferred with the help of a square. The indigenous spike is made easy, everything is demonstrated but in the photo. With insufficient disk output, the depth can be finished with hacksaw. The groove is still easier. Also demonstrated but in the photo.

Important remark! Consider that there should be approximately 0.5-centimeters in compounds of the type "spike groove" to lay a sealer. A compound in which wood simply concerns wood is unacceptable.

Previously, I set the depth of the depth. My saw can change the disk outlet without any problems - quite simply weaken the lever. Supplement is convenient in operation. If in traditional carpentry production, the wizard sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount Simplicate billets, then in a carpentine, the situation is somewhat different: the material is drained on the workbench, and the depth of the cut is regulated directly in the course of operation.

My drank is equipped with a thin disc - for cutting it has to make much less effort. Safety casing moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My home the walls will be longer than the bar, so I have to splicing the building material. To do this, I did from both ends of a long bar on drowned, I removed the deer with the help of the chisel and got a spike in the middle. The protrusion is ready, now you need a groove. Chop the wood by a chisel across the fibers - it is impractical. I went to the cunning and drilled a simple through hole in the second timber. The length of the drill was not enough to create a pass-through hole, so I had to drill on both sides. Next, I cut off the blank of excess wood, made the markup and cut the bar along the fibers using the chisel. Connected spliced \u200b\u200bbars. The gaps scored moss.

Helpful advice. In the wedge, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to fully make spikes with a saw, you will need to additionally dod blind by the chisel to the completion of the process. In the next photo you see bars already with fastening spikes. The patterns of opening thresholds for doors are demonstrated as templates.

Put the second crown on the lower, competently by performing angular articulations and the necessary splicing in length. It's time to make marking for the installation of napillates - connector of the crowns of my house built at home. I took the square and put the vertical labels on the bars below and at the top, in the places of the future placement of fasteners. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my bar. After drilled holes for fasteners and drove into them with a hammer.

What you need to know about the impudent?

By logic in a round hole, it would be necessary to drive the round heap. Builders adhere to other technology and use the square sections. Such fasteners and in the manufacture more simple, and the connection hold much more reliable. At the same time, short bellhead will not interfere with the process shrinkage process.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a hand drill with a stronger vertical hole. When installing a bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly sticking heater, the first will be a little staggering. To the bar firmly fixed, it must be additionally siege to the sledgehammer.

Used by me stoles work on the section and provide the right shrinkage even if there are insignificant deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the bar will give a shrinkage. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, what I will talk about.

Once I had to observe how the builders did in the wall of the hole of the hole with the help of a long drill and ripped round long brazening, externally similar to the cuttings from the shovel or robber. Were there vertical such holes? Naturally, no. Ultimately, the bar is not donkey, but as if "hung" on the impudent, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having stolen, I laid the trunk and moss on the crown. Pokclock laid across the bars. Moss simply threw on the pass. As a result of the panel hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to pure the walls. Moss will provide a decent insulation of the structure.

I installed the bars on the brazening, put the pass, sketched Moss, besieged the crown of a sledgehammer, but for some reason he still fears. This is due to the presence of gaps in angular compounds. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I tightly filled them with moss. This helped me a spatula and narrow metal strip.

Attentive reader will ask: But what about the panel? Do not need to lay in corners and her? There is no need. First, as I said earlier, MOH is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will still stand for a long time without any finish finish, and sediment moisture is that and the case will be drained at the corners. Moss will not give wood to dig in these places. Secondly, in the future, the timber in the corners will have to be compatible. Moss will not interfere with this. Pacle can lead to a breakdown of the plane.

Prices for passion

Now my corners are strong, insulated and unproduced. At the end of the day I covered the angular compounds in order to protect them from possible atmospheric precipitation.

In the picture you see that one bar is located above, than the other. But they must be at the same altitude. We are not in a hurry to immediately include electricians - with such a problem it is quite possible to cope with the help of simple sledgehamps.

I worked at the wrong plane, when I became clearly visible to interference with the installation of the next crown. By the Rubankov, I compared small "screws" and "Pumps". More substantial differences in height compensated with the help of packle and moss - on their arrangement goes much less time than on the processing of wood by the plane.

What should we build a house!

With the basic principles of laying each crown, you have already become familiarized. there is important nuances. First, the crowns should be laid with alternating angular compounds. Secondly, the inner bearing wall of the house should be associated with a longitudinal wall. It is done through one crown. For binding I use a proven and familiar compound. Only here are the holes for brazen, I will drive the "chess" in relation to the lower crowns. After that, laying the pass and moss, and by placing each bar in the place intended for it, weaving compounds in the corners.

That is, the order of construction of the house is extremely simple:

• i lay the next crown;
• i make markup for coppins;
• drill holes;
• i drive the wooden fasteners;
• laying the pass, I throw moss on it;
• i repeat the sequence.

By the length of the bars with a mixture of the "Vravdka" method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (I have this seventh crown), I made a markup to arrange window openings. The width of each opening calculated by adding the size of the shoals and sealing gaps to the width of the purchased window block. On each side of the opening should be in a pair of gaps - between the jammer and the installed window block, as well as between the jacket and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the necessary width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, pre-enhancing the spikes in brushes, similar to the stage with doorways for doors.

The following crowns with the window opening laid out of bars without spikes, observing the same dimensions.

All window openings, I set up from the "short", which was absolutely violated in the process of shrinkage of the bar - for the walls such a material will not fit, and sorry to throw out. The jumpers did not. Highlighting the opening, he constantly checked his evenness with a plumb. Walls also checked.

Separate stench, I temporarily brought up with the help of the REC, so that in the process of work it did not fall. T-shaped design, as well as an angle in additional strengthening do not need - they are perfectly held in their own weight.

Important remark! In places of arrangement of spikes, the opening and the line was propyl, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not put the pass, because When picking, it would be wound on the cutting disk. In the future, the package without any problems is covered with the ends.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it should be temporarily put without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for spikes. They put on the jamb. Having placed the saw dial to the required depth, installed a parallel focus to withstand the desired deposit from the edge. Much time for such work I did not go. I could not cut the bar for the desired depth of the circular - I had to finish with a hacksaw.

In the lower wedge of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. In the last crown, this did not do this - in the future, the spikes would still have to create in each bar.

At the personal experience, I was convinced that the assembly of the entire height of the opening for the window without communication, while from the wrong "short", the task is not the simplest.

Lightweight and short trimming can be used to decay or spike. It may well be that on the bar, deviating to the left, will lay a bar with deviation to the right. As a result, a smooth wall will be built. If both bars will have a deviation in one direction, you can not count on the flat wall.

To eliminate deviations, it is possible to comprising "screws" with the plane, or lay the ladder bar. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using the plane. At each stage, the verticality of the extravagated openings was checked with a plumb.

Installation of jambs and completion of work

The upper crown laid. It is time to mount the shoals of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished design will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full spike. On the upper bars there are contrections in the required places. I apply the guide, I exhibit the desired cut depth and I do a disk saw. After that, I spend a couple of lines from the ends of the sizes of the spike and get rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel.

Spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. Clauses I fill thermally insulated M material. If you wish, you can make spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing at home, cut down the extra material and fill the gaps with the seal.

Inserted temporary struts between jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the upper crown of the bar before it starts. I also mounted a crown less.

Box ready. I covered it the temporary roof, closed each opening and left the house until the next season. The bar just will have time to give shrinkage. After that, I will continue what I will definitely tell you in my next story.

Instead of imprisonment

While the house gives a shrinkage, I decided to sum up. First, it was pleased that the foundation had to spend much less money if compared with the supports of other types. A little money went to the stone dump truck. Sand in my region is also very much - you can go on myself and bring. Most money went to cement and fittings.

Secondly, pleased with the available cost and relatively small consumption of building material. When the bar was brought, I posted it in a stack of approximately meter height and a two-meter width. At first it seemed that I was silent somewhere and I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 BRUSEV remained unfounded. In general, on the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (it accounts for a brusade in it 6x7.5 m) I spent about 7.5 m3 of the bar with a cross section 15x10 cm. 15x15 cm will spend money for 1.5 more. Yes, and additional labor would have to hire, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Magged did it myself, moss is free. I would gladly gave me friends after the end of our construction events.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized bathrooms and expensive tools. All I used for construction, I will be useful to the farm in the future. Especially happy to acquire a good disk saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of performance. I did not have a special experience of construction from the bar. As practice has shown, over the whole day, working in one hands and, subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can get it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not need to own any special skills. And I personally convinced this.

I hope my story will be useful to you, and you can, as well as I realize my dream about my own home.

Video - a house from a bar do it yourself

Building a house from a bar to date one of the most sought-after types of construction contract in the private sector. The revival of interest in wooden construction in all countries of moderate and large part of cold climatic belts is quite natural. Wooden houses are good not only and not so much "spirit", "breathing", "ecology", but modern wood processing methods make them quite safe and durable. At the same time on the market wooden houses There are clearly mythical and clearly commercially directed. In this article we will try to give the reader an objective view of the features of the brusade houses, their advantages, disadvantages and try to conclude, where and in what cases it is advisable to build a brusade.

Main advantages

The first major advantage of the brusade house is the same as all wooden: The foundation for it may be a lightweight type -, unwinted, insulated. Why, it is clear: wooden buildings are lighter than stone and more elastic.

Next factor - Building technology from timber actually does not require technological breaks. More precisely, it does not require the interruptions of "deaf" when the structure should simply stand out and do nothing there. That in the brusade house you can alter immediately, it is, of course, nonsense. But, first, for a complete shrinkage he is enough for the year, while brick need 2-3. Secondly, while the log house is settled, there can be a lot of things in it, which will not have to do, see below.

Other main advantages of houses made of massive wood (chopped and prefaby-beams, see below) are due the ratio of the heat capacity of wood to its thermal conductivity.In modern climatic conditions - Global warming and frequent anomalous, warm and cold, winter - it turns out to be optimal from the point of view of heat engineering. Brick and stone, this attitude is too large, and a non-auction, insulated frame and composite structures (sip-panels, etc.) have little.

What does it look in practice? Adult man in calm state radiates ok. 60 W heat. A family of 5 people, not all the time broken in the chair - approx. 350 W. Lighting, household appliances, heat release when cooking in the kitchen is still allowed, on average per day, 700-1200 W. Roughly speaking, approximately 1.3 kW of brazing heat stably stands out in the house. In the brick structure, not to mention the concrete, it warmly widespread in the wall, and from there outside. In a gas-concrete or composite, it will have to be released into ventilation or in the window, otherwise it will be hot. And in a wooden, it will be evenly distributed over time and in space.

With an intensive furnace of such an appendage, it is impaired, but when the boiler works almost "on the guard", the fuel economy is quite noticeable. True, the boilers of pyrolysis and solid fuel flames in such a mode dramatically drops the efficiency, but the gas and surface combustion boilers this effect is weakly expressed. And that before the furnace heating, it becomes possible to reduce the number of protopes per day, without reducing the loading of the fuel to the value at which the KPD falls. Especially clear the advantages of a brusade house for furnace heating are influenced if the oven is 2-mode, "Spring / Autumn - Winter".

The next advantage of bruspered / log houses is associated with the previous one: Mechanical properties and geometry properly prepared for the construction of wood do not deteriorate from periodic freezing / warming, unless the tree is impregnated with moisture to drops. The reason is very thin pores in it. Water in super-narrow capillaries freezes at a temperature of a lot below 0, only becomes viscous. That is why they survive under the snow with waters, and in the frozen soil or under the crust of the trees - the winter animal is a trifle. The walls of a brick and aerated concrete house, if it is necessary for 2-3 years in a row to dash at minimal, can be damed and another 3-5 seasons go crumble. Heat insulation frame wall from "notop" also reuses; Composite panels are resolve. And the wooden house can be left in a non-spinner as much as possible, and after the start of the firebox, it warms up 2-4 hours, and not in 2-3 days, like a stone. In the Russian outback, you can detect wooden logs, thrown on the arbitrary of fate 50-100 years ago. In many of them, after repair you can put up.

Note: The log is a round timber, and the construction techniques of brusal and log houses are very similar. Therefore, then the log is considered on a par with a bar, stipulating particularly, what is we talking about, only if there is a difference in relation to this point.

Is it possible?

Is it possible to build a house from a bar with their own hands also the topic is very relevant. As can be seen from the previous, the main advantages of individual brusade houses are manifested outside the area of \u200b\u200bthe network of centralized heating. The departure of the construction team in place is much more appreciated by the construction, and lay out for it immediately the full amount that is not all under power. And to negotiate with the performers about work in parts - from expenses for construction burst and "steep" budget.

Brusade construction, except for zero cycle (Kotlovan - Foundation - Cocol) does not require the use of special equipment or complex tools. Managed with a 6-meter bar physically strong man is capable of alone; Sometimes you may need an unqualified assistant. How the house is built from the bar with their own hands, see a selection of video:

Video: Brous house with their own hands on stages

Step 1: All Box Before Shrinking

Stage 2: Starting Finish

Stage 3: Final Finish

Stage 4: Device Stairs

As you can see, build a house from the bar is quite possible, not being a professional carpenter and builder in general. That the head and hands for this need what it is necessary, understandable, and so. But what can be achieved (in the sense - what kind of house to build), and with what initial skills to do this should be possessive - the questions are already more serious.

What can timber?

From the bar you can build houses at home to 3 with an attic and a total area of \u200b\u200bup to 600-700 square meters. m. Architectural forms - angular; About the possibilities of brusade construction gives a presentation of a selection of photos. Suppliers of the brood logs offer material with finished bowls not only at 90 degrees to the axis of the log, but also under 45, 60, 30, which allows to collect faceted structures. In principle, smoothly curved brusched walls can be collected from a bent bar, but the price is translated.

About insulation

Many sources argue that brusade houses are mostly suitable for seasonal residence. The reason - for the mid-family budget, a construction site from a bar up to 200x200 is scheduled; The most chassis size is 150x150. By heat engineering, such a wall is equivalent to 1.5 bricks, which is not enough for Central Russia. However, firstly, the brusade houses can be insulated outside under, it comes out easier and cheaper than similar warming on stone. Secondly, the heat engineering properties of wood allow you to insulate a constantly inhabited (and heated in the cold time) home from the inside; Model diagram of the internal insulation of the brusade house, see fig. on right. Thirdly, there are receptions of brusade construction (see below), allowing to place the insulation in the wall. In general, the timber stop, i.e. The wall, heat engineering equal or the best 2.5 brick is real.

Note: wood construction bar It is produced until the size of the cross section of 300x300, which is equivalent to the heat equivalent to the wall in 2 bricks, but the price of such a material takes off sharply.

How to be a "teapot"?

Is it possible to put such beauty without the experience of a carpenter and builder? At all without experience, on a naked theory, nothing can be done at all. The theory may summarize the existing experience, clarify something incomprehensible in it, to hurt in experienced data something that has previously eluded from the general attention. On this basis, the theory can expand existing experience and look far ahead. But the theory is based only and only on experienced data. The speculative speculations have never come any benefit anyone else.

Specifically, in relation to this case: in order to assemble a foot from the one-piece 6th bar, it is necessary to make 36-50 propils of longitudinal and as many transverse. The width of the cut is 2.5-3 mm. The error in standing for sizes with manual unqualified work is twice as much. It does not converge in half the law of large numbers, like an experienced employee: due to the accumulation of fatigue, an inexperienced hand leads one way. With a height of a wall of 3 m, the flaw is up to 9-15 cm, rotund the corners. Will stand such a house? The question is rhetorical. And corners, overlap, roof, partitions? And opening, communications?

In addition to the accumulation of error, there are other factors leading to marriage. Level them in the process of work consciously outside human capabilities, work skills are needed. It is possible to work out them before automatism, putting a pre-unkind or seasonal brusade structure in terms of approx. Up to 4x5 m - shed, bath, hozblock, country house. He will already be able to "keep the whole in mind" and "full kettle", if only "kettle" he was not the essence of his own and not on conviction. And in the process of work, a purely mechanical skills will be developed, allowing to take a residential building.

If you have already built something like that, on reading further, look at more videos as you can carefully and start the preparatory work. If not - read anyway. This will allow you, firstly, much to reduce the design. Secondly, choose a suitable contractor: Khalshchikov in this sector - the sea is flawed. Thirdly, also competently pick up and, perhaps, to make the material on their own.

Note: Start building a brusade house is best in winter. The tree of autumn-winter workpiece gives the smallest shrinkage, and the condensed earlier will have time to be accommodated.

Design and technology

The general scheme of the device of a brusade house with an attic date in Fig. below. It may be assembled not only chopped. If you do not plan anything more difficult than the construction of a seasonal one-storey house to approx. 6x6 meters in terms of timber 150x150, it is possible to use a beam-brusade engineering construction. At the same time, in the corners and under the scenario in the mortgage (the lowest) crown of the box, which in this case is not a log house, they put construction on spikes, i.e. Vertical bars, pos. And in the drawing in fig. on right.

The simplest way to build a bar of timber in the wall - a plug-in spike groove, as shown in Fig. You can use ready-made solids with suitable size, only rectangular, not furniture elliptic! The grooves are selected manual milling on wood. The stronger structure suitable for housing in places is not particularly windy and snowy, can be put in this way on indigenous spikes; Better - frying, see below, but the timber is needed a special factory manufacturer, because A manual milling machine on a tree cutter of the desired size will not check.

Additional condition - roof riglel, i.e. All its power construction, including the truss system, and the building box must be mechanically self-sufficient. Simply put that the roof can be removed all the entire entirely, put on, give 2-3 months to lie down, and then put it back without disorders of the design of both. The reason is the prefabricated brusade boxes are not capable of carrying the expansion of their loads.

Note: The foot of the pregnant-beam brusal walls need to be bonded by brazen, as in the next. case.

Real Brousa

So, we build a chopped brusade residential building. The base is a log house, very durable and a fairly elastic box of lying bars, bonded by wrinkles in the corners and in places of removal of semen. So, you will need to master several types of bells of timber, see fig. For log cabins, a simple word is most often used in the bowl; For a 1-storey house with an attic, it is enough. Condition of the house of high floors is better to collect in Kurdyuk, it is the most difficult, but the most reliable way. For a cut from glued timber (see below) there will be no worse in the hodge.

When writing without a residue, a word is common in paw. Methods B, B, G, it is recommended to apply for non-residential or seasonal buildings up to 1.5 floors. Methods A and D give a durable log house, but are not recommended for places with an annual precipitation over 300 mm or wet rooms. Well used to build lungs, and z - carriage of partitions.

Note: The frying pan is similar to the lobby tail, but it is not. Swallow tail - angular furniture connection of flat parts on a set of trapezoid spikes and acc. groove.

The logs in the Siruba are also presented in several ways; On both halves. They are located, from left to right, in order of increasing complexity and reliability. Currently, there are online logs on log cabins with finished bowls under 90, 45; Sometimes - under 30 and 60 degrees. The arrangement step in length is 1.2, 1.5 and 3 m. Before designing or disintegrating the house (see Next), you need to decide on the material supplier and bind the project breed house By step bowl.

The logs will have to run a little ahead. Most of the rounded system logs are on sale with a ready-made lunar groove, pos. 1 on the trail. Fig. If there are doubts as a workpiece and excerpt of wood, it is better to take a log with t. Finnish groove - a longitudinal slot at the top, pos. 2. Silvering not glued bar of any kind inevitably. Finnish groove provokes the appearance of the primary crack where it is harder to get in moisture and embers in pests, and when the cracks go on the sides, the login will turn into almost pure lignin, more stable to harmful influences.

The broken log must be stored under a canopy, but certainly on some elevation and on a thickness of 150 mm thick, laid at no less than 2 m (in order to avoid sagging logs), and rows in the stack should be shifted by racks with a thickness of 50 mm, poses . 3. The highest quality string forest is stored on concreted sites with a bias for drain and melt water, pos. 4, stacks, longitudinally oriented towards North-South.

But back to the footsteps of Bruusyev in the walls. In addition to the corner and intermediate wrist, to prevent the longitudinal and transverse displacement during the shrinkage, their assembly is supported by the rotor of anticipation - round wooden pins, see the next. Fig. On the connection along the length and in the corners of the wrinkle in the paw and in dragged, they are made of diameter of 30 mm, and the wondments in the indigenous spike are reinforced by 20-mm brazing. Braided not necessarily made of solid wood; The main thing is that the wood of accelerations smire faster than construction, otherwise the bars hang on the brains, the walls will be destroyed and weakened. For 1-storey houses from a pine bar, oxine begins, they do not rot. Birch is stronger, but suitable only for partitions in dry rooms, because Birch is very susceptible to rot and mold. The best, but the most expensive begging - oak.

Recently, another way of bonding bars appeared in the foot: steel bolts with carving for wood. In the lower bar, they drive half or on 2/3 of its thickness, and in the top under the head of the bolt, a wide hole is chosen in depth of 1/3 of its thickness. 2 washers with a spring between them are under the bolt head. At first, the bolt is tightened with a neto, and in the process of shrinkage, the spring is compressed a foot. This allows you to parry not only the correct shrinkage of the bar, but also a rather strong warping of it, see below. Theoretically, everything looks flawless here, but this technology is applied relatively wide less than 10 years. The minimum permissible service life of residential buildings is 40 years, so it is unambiguously recommended by the screed of the brusade foot bolts yet early.

Konopka and shrinkage

As a set of brusade stops, it is caught with flax ribbons or jute with 5 cm in 5 cm. By assembling the foot of Povropati, pushing into the grooves, this is T. Naz. First picking or exposure. Then, if the log house is still without a roof, the top of the walls are covered with rubberoid and leave a log house for shrinkage, up to a year. At this time, inside it you can put communication and produce some other works, see the video above. Shrinkage is controlled by slats with marks installed in the corners. If the windows of windows and doors are not cut into the larger, and they are formed under the cutting of bars at once, they must be made above the calculated on the minimum possible The magnitude of the shrinkage of this bar. In size, they sue later. The final caulking of the harness is made under the roof after a shrink shrinkage.

About Nezca

You do not need to paint and resize the ends of the bar. Although the tree and pulls moisture mainly at the end, but also dry evenly on them. In the finished ugly litter 2-3 years after the construction, dry summer, useful 2-3 times abundantly to impregnate the outward ends of the water-polymer emulsion. On the appearance At home, it will not affect anywhere, but the likelihood of fracture, rot and mold will fall sharply.

Minched Crown

The Achilles of the heel of wooden houses is the lowest, mortgage, crown of a church. Between it and the foundation inevitably capillary winding, i.e. The accumulation of moisture mastered directly from the air, and the fallen crown of the crown requires the restructuring of the entire church. To avoid this, the slope is recommended to lift the mortgage crown over the foundation by 5 cm, but how? Wooden rails rot, steel mesh in several layers or pressed small metal waste rust, cement strainer It leads to the same clock, only above. Most effective method It is desirable to neutralize the capillary moisture to neutralize: a mortgage crown and, desirable, another 1-2 above it is from larch. It is not impregnated, constantly in the stalewater, keeps 100 years or more. In this case, the lower crown is simply placed without a gap on 2 layers of rubberoid, laying on the foundation.

Design

For the construction of a brusade residential building, a approved project is required. Minimizing the design costs will give and considerable cost savings. Cheaper Total Typical Projects, and for your own more or less solid contractors are not charged. But in "Typovuhu" it is not always possible to fit into neither its own needs or in local conditions. In this case, computer design programs will be helped. There are several such focused on private brusade houses:

• Visicon - interior design and planning, designed for lovers. From it you need to start. If all that in the house wants, is placed in "Typovuhu", then is it worth straining a wallet, yourself and people head?
• Floorplan 3D + house-3D, for facades and stairs - will allow the non-professional up to the user to get a sketch along which the designer will definitely understand what the customer wants. This will reduce consultation costs with specialists and project refinement.
• Cybermotion 3D-Designer - Soft Poland, designed for a user who can read technical documentation and superficially familiar with automatic design systems (CAD, CAD). For competent use of the data on a specialist will remain checking the project and to approve.
• Total 3DHOME Design Deluxe, Homeplan Pro, Xilinx Planahead - Professional Products. If you have already been designed at home yourself, here are your extensive sets of templates, the base of technical and architectural solutions.

Special attention deserves on SEMA - a complete software package for designing precisely bar and frame houses. To master it is capable of both newcomers, but as a result, it turns out:

1. Layout overall and premises.
2. Definition on the axes of surfaces of surfaces and openings.
3. Weaving - Definition of centers of severity of all elements of the structure that the designer monstrously simplifies the work, and the customer will give serious foundations to demand discounts on the project.
4. Layout of the rafting system under the selected roof, the calculation of the crate and roofing pie. The effect is the same as in the pre. case.

Especially valuable directly developer in SEMA Drawing - a complete calculation of a bar for the construction of the house:

• Laying in the ranks over the axes.
• Domocompute cards.
• Consolidated material statement with specifications of all elements.
• Brous layout schemes on the crowns.

Having accurate dispersion can, firstly, while paper wander on instances, reduce the estimate for construction and calculate their capabilities. Secondly, find the supplier, pick up and order material in real. Thirdly, on the dispersion, you can buy materials parts as you need, and not to upload the entire amount immediately.

Selection of material

Now we left into the material. Here you have to assimilate the difference between the concepts of shrinkage and the blocking, with which we have already encountered earlier. Shrinkage is a proportional decrease in the linear dimensions of the timber due to the uniform loss of moisture and under the action of mechanical loads, first of all weighing. Balance - shrinkage distorting geometry details. Comes from uneven drying, regardless of the action of mechanical loads, see fig.

If the shrinkage is normalized for different wood breeds and types of sawn timber, then the effect of the effect is certainly harmful and for high-quality businesswood is unacceptable. The raw tree, depending on the drying conditions, may not be swallowed, but a weathered, if it is wrong to store it, will behave. Taking into account these circumstances build good house Perhaps from a bar:

1. Wild, or wild Texa - from the forest, which has lain on the leaper, an indefinite time before sawing. The cheapest. Shrinkage up to 10%, humidity is not normalized, from the development of fracture and blocking with proper further storage is not guaranteed;
2. Weathered edged - in sawing comes brought to air dryness in 20%. In regions with developed logging and timber industry, not much more expensive than wild, but shrinkage approx. at 7%, the fracture is normalized (see below), it does not proceed with proper storage;
3. Used profiled - properties are the same as in paragraph 2, but more convenient in work. The price is somewhat higher than that of the edged. The most chassis;
4. Glued - bars stick from individual boards / planks (lamella), weathered and impregnated. Only profiled, more expensive. Superior to all before. Views in all respects, except one: in most profiles, see below, glue seams are visible and noticeable that the tree is not natural;
5. Suharya - from drummer, high-quality dry. Shrinkage zero, fracture development, warping and rotes are excluded. Very roads because The crust of a crust of a living tree for getting drinkers in all civilized countries, including the Russian Federation, is considered a predatory method of logging, prohibited by law and is prosecuted.

Savage and edge

Types of edged timber, from left to right in order of increasing prices for 1 cu. m, shown in Fig. In the construction of the house, not only 4 cannut clean, as it is considered. For example, the 2-canta gives a bilateral imitation of a log without performing a lunar groove and rounded bowls, which is difficult or not at all possible by a hand tool. The 3-china allows you to imitate logs outside, leaving inside a flat surface. 4-china with a review gives outdoor wall, more resistant to the action of atmospheric moisture. To do this, you need to build a foot with obolts, turned outward and-oriented upwards. On the wall, the rows of small carnisms-tearmen are formed, much reduced to the penetration of water in the grooves even with a very braid rain.

Note: The sleepers look like a bars, but more expensive because they are additionally normalized on shortness, swivel, blasphemy, etc., which is insignificant in construction.

Profiled bar

The house from the profiled timber is not only easier to build, it is also more economical on heat, because Through the walls in the walls occur during the deformations of the bar of large, than that of the edged, approx. The same as in log cabins. Also, the profile timber provides flatness of the wall surface, because The protrusions and grooves of the profile hold it from the cross-shift. But to reinforce the foot from the workshop from the proceedings, contrary to the common opinion, it is still necessary: \u200b\u200bsuddenly the warker will go, the thin protrusions will simply bloom.

Comparative characteristics of a solid weathered and glued profile bar are given in Table. In fig., and how it looks naturally, shown in the photo there at the bottom. Add to Table data. And the pictures remain a bit.

Firstly, About cop standards for shrinkage. In Europe, the poor under construction forests and free areas under the site for the storage of timber, its permissible value is 2%, or 2 cm for each meter of acc. The size of the array. With the height of the foot 3 m, it gives 6 cm, which is not very good, but Europeans have their standards withstand.

The Russian glued bar from the best manufacturers with the reference standards is no need to compare, he can serve as a benchmark itself. But, unfortunately, in this, very profitable, the sector will host the sites of medium-minor producers, a lot of those who have heard about the standards, then, forgive me for the expression, chopping them deeply and from a high place. Canadian bar is not inferior to Russian, but they are talking about such prices in Odessa: oh, mom, parents are back! therefore high-quality brusade building is better to order turnkey with a guarantee(the year on the brusade house is enough to show all defects), And on the budget to take a weathered whole profther.

Secondly, The glued timber is produced with a thickness of 50 mm, and its high performance makes it possible to collect volatile walls from it, pos. 3 in the photo. The gap is filled with clay, foam concrete and others. Non-combustible insulation; In addition, the resulting cellular design is tougher and wind resistant. This makes it possible to build a house from glued timber in heavy, up to extreme, climatic conditions. The wet-free insulated timber wall is like a duplex: in the off-season with a minimal firebox, it behaves with heat as a wooden, see above, and if the insulation comes into operation.

Thirdly, the operational qualities of the wall of glued timber are determined not so much by its profile, as a gluing scheme, see Fig.:

• Horizontal gluing is most reliable, because The glue seam is composed of overlapping structures. Disadvantage - seam is visible.
• The bars of vertical gluing are suitable for buildings up to 2 floors.
• From the salon bars you can build houses of any admissible for brusal floors and designs. Also salon must be high-quality bars Thick from 200 mm.
• The glued log in the work is fully similar to the whole, but its techniques correspond to the conditions on the glued bar, much more rigid, see above. True, adhesive seams give it an artificial origin.

Summing up + prices

The price of houses from the bar per 1 square meter. The M total area varies significantly depending on the availability of raw materials, degree of development in this region of the forest and woodworking industry, logistics infrastructure, finally, the season, current demand and competitive control of contractors. Focusing for yourself, you need to take into account the following.

Firstly, For houses of a total area of \u200b\u200bgreater than 100 square meters. m, but up to 200 square meters. m, you need to multiply the average in this place to 1.15, and for houses more than 200 square meters. M - at 1.25. The reason is the technological difficulties of the assembly of the walls longer than the standard length of the bar of 6 m. The same coefficients are used for a fox of 1.5-2 and more than 2.

Secondly, The price "turnkey" does not mean that the house you can put furniture and to protect the housewarming. In the "Plishev" house you will get:

1. There will be no finishing floor in the house from the wild bar, but there will be empty openings, because He must be standing until the final finish of the year.
2. In the house from a weathered and glued bar - the wall floor, windows, doors.
3. The remaining surfaces prepared for finishing (decorative) finish.
4. Divorced communications, but without installed devices Plumbing, heating and cooking and lighting. Maximum - showcase letters hanging on wires.
5. Outdoor sheaturing will not be otherwise not specified in the contract contract.

In general, averaging in the Russian Federation, the price of 1 square meters. M Broja house turnkey is:

• from wild edged timber - 350-400 USD;
• from a weathered solid profiled timber - 600-750 USD;
• from the glued brusade of Russian production with a one-year warranty - 1100-1300 USD.

The brick house on the same conditions will cost 850-1000 USD for 1 square meters. m. With the fact that the finishing of the brusade house is cheaper (except for the plasterboard), it turns out so for that. Nevertheless, the construction of a brusade house may be more profitable first, with places with a developed timber industry, but a deficit of mineral raw materials. Secondly, oddly enough, in the southern regions, due to savings on heating in off-season and warm winter.

The choice of material is the priority problem with which everyone faces who is solved by the personally build a small, reliable and comfortable house in its plot. Modern market building materials It can safely boast a huge assortment of raw materials for every taste and wallet. Most prefer the tree. And it is not surprising, because a wooden bar is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.

This material is represented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with your own hands from the profiled timber, since it is the most common and possesses the simplest installation technology. It is very compliant for processing, which means that you will be able to carry out electrical wiring, water supply and sewage without special difficulties.

Drawing up a plan, preparation of materials and tools

Without a good project, build a house is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take extremely seriously to this stage, especially since it is for him to clearly understand what can be saved.

Ideally, you can seek help in special design agencies. For a certain fee, they individually make a complete layout of the future at home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, the composition of the soil, financial capabilities and the most important thing - personal preferences.

If you have no need for some miracle of designer thought, you can build a building using typical options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or to use one of several 3D editors programs, among them Floorplan3D, Cybermotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed for the planning of houses from the bar. SEMA will help you to spend all the necessary statistical calculations, pick up the type of the rafter system and much more.

In the drawing, everything should be indicated, ranging from the overall size of the construction and the number of floors to the location of the door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).

As soon as the plan turns out to be in your hands, you can proceed to the calculation, if it is not yet produced, and the choice of the required materials and tools, including:

• Bar as the main building material.

You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut-off grooves and spikes - drove, installed - use, also due to the perfectly flat and smooth facet of faces there is no need for additional finishing works, or you can buy wooden blanks, and you can do it yourself, there is nothing difficult in it, And you can save well.

Experts recommend taking a sequence of 150x150 mm when building a timing. But since you have to work alone or with an unqualified assistant, it is better to use the material with a cross section of 150x100 mm. Such a bar is much easier, and the missing volume can be restored in the future, the facade is insulated outside the building.

• Insulation.

To save additionally, the materials that, so to speak, are "at hand" can be used as insulation. Moss is the best among these. It is not difficult to find and processed, but according to its technical characteristics, it is identical to his artificial counterparts.

• Nails, self-tapping screws and other fasteners (metal corners, wooden brazed and so on).
• Waterproofing material (for example, rubberoid).
• Ready concrete solution or components (water, sand, crushed stone, cement necessary for its preparation.
• Armature (if a belt foundation is planned).
• Saw.
• Electrolzik.
• Sculpture.
• A hammer.
• Building rubber hammer.
• Roulette.
• Building level.
• Plumb.
• Circular Saw.
• Pipes for water supply and sewage.
• Cable for electricity wiring, TV.
• Master OK.
• Canopate.
• Other tools for small and decorative works.

Wood harvesting and moss for construction

To build a warm and cozy house from a bar, in addition to the knowledge of the technique of laying the crowns, it is important to understand which kind of breed wood is better suitable for this purpose.

Each breed naturally has its advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing is to pay attention to when choosing a lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the tree is fragile, then your home can simply fall apart if the density is small, then such a material can give a shrinkage to 20, or even more percent. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the wood fibers, then such a house will never be warm, well, if the raw materials are unattainable, it will be simply impossible to work with it, the material will become too unreliable.

To the walls of the house there are very serious demands, as they should provide heat, comfort and low noise in the rooms, especially since the tree is rather fire-hazardous material that is capable of deforming due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing a timber from coniferous rocks, such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the large content of resinous substances, coniferous rocks are resistant to rotting, crackling and other deformations. Also, the trees of this breed are very durable, light, so do not create too much load on the foundation.

By choosing a timber bar from a conifer, you can save, building the foundation for a simplified system.

If you decide to prepare wood yourself, then you need to know that the humidity factor should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will begin to appear in the walls that will require additionally processing, and these are extra costs, time and budget.

When bilking, consider the fact that it is better to do this in winter The year (from January to March), since the process of photosynthesis and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk slows down in winter.

Cut the sawn timber to the desired shape and sizes, process the antiseptic and leave the dry place in an inaccessible to the sun's rays. Bruks need to be compact in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap in 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. Multiple transverse beams are inserted between them. Lowering this 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.

So that your home kept warmth in rainy weather, it is worth thinking about choosing an interventory insulation. Professional builders use modern belt materials, but the price of such pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.

There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but for construction purposes only some kind of varieties are used, among them: sphagnum, cucushkin moss, red and peat. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the minuses - high flamminess, since after drying the moss becomes dry and fragile, for example, high temperatures It can be self-splashing to prevent it from being processed by special means.

Moss must be assembled, it is possible to find it on the swampy terrain - it is long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaflets, dry and stored in a dry place for about two weeks. Polyethylene packages can be used as bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There is nothing terrible in this.

Foundation building

Qualitative foundation is a pledge of a reliable, sustainable and durable housing. Since it is it that is the main supporting structure that must withstand the overall weight of the construction, such high demands are presented to it.

When building a house from a bar uses three main types of foundation:

1. Wine-screw.
2. Nesting.
3. Ribbon.

The choice of the foundation type depends mainly from the soil on which the house is planned. This question must be solved on the planning stage. You must analyze the soil, can also be involved in the neighbors, on which foundation are their homes, or search for information in the purchase documents or other reference literature.

If the soil is pouchedled or watery, and also, if it is planned to use the house only after the season, and not live there all the time, then one of the first two options are used. If it is part of it large quantity Sand or clay, then the ribbon foundation will fit.

The first thing that is worth starting is to clean the territory from garbage, thickets, bushes and other items, which may interfere. Immediately before the church, you need to mark up. To do this, use conventional wooden peasants, which are placed in the corners of the site, as well as along the bearing walls, and the thread that is stretched between them is simple. Subsequent actions depend on the chosen type of foundation.

Pile-screw foundation

After the territory is cleared and ready for further manipulations, go to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles in specialized storeSince it is quite difficult to build such structures by hand. Choose the supports of the same size and must with the presence of already welded on one end.

Due to the special design, the piles are easy to install on their own, while watching the angle of inclination. This can help a building magnetic level. Also, if there were no caps on the screws, it must be installed. To do this, use the treated metal sheet 25x25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 mm.

Nest foundation

The nesting foundation is distinguished only by the fact that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports are used, or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm, in which cement mortar is poured after installation.

As soon as the marking of the territory was carried out, in the selected points around the perimeter, it is necessary to dug holes with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. The sand layer is covered on the bottom, wet and tightly tamper. After that, at a right angle, support structures are inserted into them, if necessary, the solution is poured into the space around them around them. The remaining gaps between the supports and the soil fall asleep with a mixture of sand and rubble.

There is also an option in the dug holes to install a formwork and pour concrete solution To the ground level, we recommend using the M400 grade cement in the Sand 1: 3 ratio. After complete drying of the cement, the formwork is removed and the aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are filled over.

Ribbon foundation

The ribbon foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the overwhelming majority of cases, for example, if you plan to build a heavy two or more storey house.

The first step is to grow trenches with a width of centimeters by 10-15 more, rather than the thickness of the walls and a depth of 50-70 cm. It should be located at an altitude of at least a meter from the level of groundwater slide.

There are several options for a belt foundation, among them:

• Brick.
• Concrete.
• Stone.

For any of them, it is necessary to prepare the basis. At the bottom of the trench, lay a layer (10 cm) of sand, wetted with a small amount of water and carefully tamped, if necessary, you can pour sand in two layers. On top of it, a layer (15-20 cm) of rubble, broken bricks or small stones are poured.

By the way, on the bottom of the trench you can pre-put geotextiles, and the heat insulation material can be installed on the outer edge - it will help prevent the freezing of fine-breed foundation.

On the resulting pillow, if the construction of a brick or stone base is planned, a little without reaching the top of the foundation, you can install a formwork. Inside it is necessary to pour the layer of the solution to the level of the earth's surface and tamper. To increase sustainability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

Already on top, after complete solo, the brick or stones can be ordered, or use the found themselves on their own near any reservoir. On top of the masonry, another reinforcement belt is installed and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and align.

If a concrete base is planned, the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, the thickness is 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from a tree, then there should be no cracks, chips, irregularities and other defects on the material.

The reinforcement is installed in 10-20 cm increments. The distance between the rows is 5-10 cm. In the end, a mesh with 15-20 kV cells should be obtained. Breaks of rigid wire with a rigid wire, all this design is poured cement mortarwhich can either buy or prepare personally. We recommend to spend money on the concrete mixer - it will save you time and nerves, as it is quite difficult to interfere with the cement manually and difficult. Pre-formwork must be mixed with water or wrap a layer of polyethylene film.

It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before pouring the solution. This will help the vibration hammer or you can simply break through the holes, later they will need to be filled with mortar.

The foundation leaves to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which a few more follows, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent crackling the foundation. Do not forget to make openings for wiring communications.

Construction and insulation of walls and gender

The wines of the first row are traditionally connected to each other, regardless of the method of connecting the subsequent rows, "in drapery" is quite reliable and easy to perform the type of end louds, and they are not directly on the foundation, but on a lining from small plates located cross-very bruster himself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the rails can be fill in mounting foam. To cut the face, you can use the hacksaw, in order to remove the extra material, pass the chisel.

So, if the rails rot, they will be easier to replace, rather than a number of timber. The plank should also be treated with an antiseptic or ground to prevent the development of fungi and various microorganisms, and put on a coated waterproofing material on the two layers, such as rubberoid, the foundation.

The first row bar must have a slightly large size, rather than the crown of the remaining rows, for example, if the wall uses the material with a cross section of 150x150 mm, then for the first row, use the separation of 200x200 mm.

On the lining made of associates can be mounted lags for roughing, using steel corners and nails or self-tapping screws. These must be attached, the so-called cranial timber, which will be laid in the future edged board For rough floors. On top of the draft should be laid a layer of waterproofing, and on top of it the insulation plate, such as minvat, expanded polystyrene or any other modern analog. The next layer goes vaporizolation, and after - clean floor.

All subsequent ranks are stacked identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:

• "With the residue" - this is when a small part of the bar opens from his two ends.
• "No residue."

The picture below shows different types end lubrics.

This manipulation can be made using a disk saw or elktrol bias. Options "A" and "D" ("without residue") are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult in the installation. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. The option "s" is used to connect the internal bearing walls. Also note that the spike-groove connections need to leave the gap in a half-meter for insulation.

Rows are fixed with each other with wooden or metal brazers. We recommend using the second, since when drying will not pass the sawn timber, which will ensure the durability of your construction.

Using bent for fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill in such a way that the agent of one row of the heating passes through, and the latter bar is only partially or you can use short bent, for this, the holes are cut from two opposite sides, the hammer is driven by a hammer, and the next thing is simply inserted. Remember that brazening should not be located on each other. In order to design, it was most sustainable, place them in a checker order, as shown in the figure below.

If the walls of your home turned out to be longer than the timber - it does not matter. In this case, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one bar, and at the end of the second, the rectangular protrusion is right in the center, so you get the connection "Schip-groove".

The space between the crowns can be insulated with the help of a pre-assembled and dried moss and pacles. The pass is laid across the bars, moss simply throws from above. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will be written out - it is not scary, as it is planned to be carried out on a pantry, and it in turn will ensure maximum thermal insulation.

In order for the bars of one row to be at the same height, we use a rubber hammer, tapping them along the walls after installing each bar. The plans are used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the irregularity of the lower row it is impossible to install the top row beam.

*Important! Do not forget to alternate angular connections.

The last two rows of the crowns are not attached, because in the future, after shrinkage there will be a rafting system. To do this, have to dismantle these two rows.

For the design of the door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all rows, and after, making a mark, cut the necessary holes, or use the beams in advance of such a length, so that they subsequently formed windows and doors. Remember that the size of the opening should exceed the size of the door itself or the window, since it is still necessary to leave a place to install window and door boxes. Also over the windows and doors, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm. This is necessary in order to further when the ram will give a shrinkage, do not damage the designs of the windows of the ID believe. It will be necessary to fill in a liquid insulation.

Roof roofing

After the last row of the crowns was erected, the building is needed to cover with rubberoid or slate and give it. The shrinkage period on average takes up to 6 months, only after that you can move to the installation of the roof and facing work.

There is a huge number of roof variations. The most reliable and stable is considered four-minded or walm roof, It is used in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to build it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a duplex. Briefly tell about the installation stages and the main elements.

To begin with, it is necessary to isolate the surface of the walls from moisture using, for example rubberoid. It is necessary for two layers. After mocking Mauerlat - the base for the rafter system in which special cuts are made, with which the rafter legs are attached. Mauerlat will serve as a top row of the crowns, previously processed by an antiseptic.

The rafted themselves, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, should be made of a bar with a cross section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200х50 mm. They should not be outside the house of more than half the meter, if more - is expected to install additional supports. It is installed on the racks of 5-6 cm with a thickness of 5-6 cm with a width of 10-20 cm with a step, which depends on the roofing material (the tile - the rolls are placed in bulk if slate or professional flooring - at a distance of 30 cm apart). Sometimes they establish a controlling, on top of which the roofing material itself is mounted. In the resulting space between two inches, the insulation, steam and waterproofing are paired.

The ceiling consists of several ceiling lags, which are attached by the "spike in the groove" method to the top row of the bar. The remaining manipulations are identical to the floor. Between the first and rough ceiling, you can additionally pave the insulation, isolation. In the future, this can reduce heat loss up to 30%.

So that the roof was stable, strong, kept the strong wind and served for many years, it is worth thinking about additional supporting structures, such as a beam, so-in, tightening, racks and others. All of them are attached with hardware, such as steel corners and screws.

Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for chimney and an attic, if it is planned. The roof fronts can be sewn with a decorative block house.

Remember! Any roof over time requires repair. Therefore, in order to reduce financial expenses, specialists recommend annually to check the coverage for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (riggers, racks, and so on), and the leakage is eliminated by replacing the rotten roofing material.

Suitable

Last stage construction work It is the installation of inlets and interior doors, windows. If necessary, work is carried out on insulation and decorative wall decoration either inside or outside the house. Conduct electricity, water, heat, plug in the sewage system.

Now that you know the main stages of the construction of the house from the bar on their own, as well as ways to save money, you can begin the construction of a warm, cozy and reliable housing, which will warm and delight you over the years.

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, the difficulty of choosing the material will be relevant.

The most budget option will be the construction of the house from the bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will turn out quite warm, durable and strong.

Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases they advise you to choose a timing with a cross section of 150x150 mm.

But if you do not want to attract additional workforce, it is suitable for you such a sawn timber as a dry bar of 150x100 mm, which, after the construction and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not give way to thermal insulation by other buildings from the larger pavement.

Stages of construction and construction of the foundation

And so, the material purchased, proceed to the construction of the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and align the platform for the foundation;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help).

The foundation may be pile, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively lungs.

After installing the foundation, the concrete must dial strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to laying a bar. Even before stacking, it is necessary to prepare bravely (SCBS) - this is, with the help of which laid in the wints, the bar is bonded among themselves. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).

With the size of a bar of 150x100 mm, it will be made up with a length of about 12 cm. Also, the technology of laying timber requires to lay the interventic insulation. These are usually rolled jute type, you can also use a pass or moss.

According to the advice of specialists, a fresh red or peat moss should be used, which has lain no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future house should be made of larch, which is not susceptible to rotting. For greater reliability, you can handle bitumen.

The first crunch of the first crown is bonded between themselves, the reception known as "in Polterev" - on the ends of the bar they do it along and across. Also copold such a node is necessary using a bracket or nails.

Methods for fastening a bar to the foundation

At the stage of fill the base in his upper layer Mounted bolts with curved or bases in the form of a cone. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. For each element of the first crown, there should be at least two bolts.

In a bar of the first crown, it is necessary to drill holes for studs located in the foundation.

A pre-sliced \u200b\u200brubberoid is stacked over the framework, which acts as a waterproofing material.

Setting the first crown and consolidating it on the foundation studs using the washers and counterparts, output the horizontal in the level so that the house turns out without distortion. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Setting the first crown, proceed to the construction of the walls.

For this you will need a diverse tool:

Note!

• Gasoline or electric saw;
• Manual circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Ax;
• A hammer;
• Shurtpers;
• Perforator;
• Plane.

Supplies are also needed - nails, selflessness, inter-night insulation, fire-proof impregnations.

After preparation of all essential materials And the tool is proceeding with the construction of the walls of your future dwelling. Laying timber is made by rows (crowns) until the wall is obtained.

After laying 4-5, the crowns are installed shoals for door and window openings. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof occurs.

Blood and floors

Save on the material to install the roofing is urgently not recommended. This part of the house is possible to fulfill in several versions:

• Single;
• Two-screw;
• Walm;
• Tent;
• Half-haired;
• Multi-volume;
• Vaulted and bubnic roof.

It all depends on your desire, cash and complexity of the rafter system.

Note!

The floors and ceilings in the house is also not an unavailable stage of construction. With their arrangement, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but necessarily for any manufacturer is high-quality waterproofing. This is especially true of basements and basements.

Photo of the house from the bar do it yourself

Note!

The decision to build a house from the bar is not immediately accepted and not suddenly. Just this technology, with a simpler assembly of the walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region there is enough timber in 195 mm thick. With this thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but it is better to warm it for saving on heating (outside 10 mm minvati) and make a verteautable facade. Then there will be also savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing - one of the advantages of wood

What wood choose

For the construction of the house uses usually wood coniferous rocks. There are several reasons. First, the increased resin content, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Thanks to their presence, wood is destroyed for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from a beech or oak bar, but the price will be simply translated. Thirdly, the wood is soft, easily processed.

Of all the coniferous rocks most often put a house from a pine bar. With good characteristics, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses from larch and cedar rarely put: too expensive. From ate even less often, but for another reason: it is faster than all collapse, and even heavy in processing. So relative to the breed of wood, choice, actually, and not. In 95% it is pine. But with the type of timber it is necessary to understand.

By processing method, the bar happens:

• Normal or whole, unstage bar. Heated from a solid log, section - quadrilateral (square or rectangle).
• Profiled timber. It is also pumped out of a solid log, but after it is processed: the stubs are formed by spikes and grooves - profiles, with which one bar is docked with another. Side faces are also processed. From the machine they come out already laughing. Section - complex shape. Side edges There may be even, rounded, curly - with chamfer, the form "lock" - numerous beards and recesses.
• Glued bar. Externally similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

We will analyze the features of each of the types of timber, relative to the construction of the house.

House from a regular bar

If earlier it was said that they decided to build a house from the bar, they definitely understood the usual rectangular timber. Other simply was not or was it too expensive: he was brought from abroad. The usual bar is the most affordable time if you take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required events, the cost of the construction may be higher than from the profiled. It's all about the features of the material. They lead to significant additional costs at the stage of construction: when erecting a house from an unstrooty bar, an interventical insulation is necessarily used. He has a non-ideal geometry, and, if this does not do, blow through the cracks between the crowns will be sooooo strong. The second feature is the surface of the walls, it turns out uneven and without finishing inside and outside can not do.

In addition to laying the interventovation layer, the concoated log house supplied, additionally sealing seams. Canopate is not alone, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made of wood natural humidity. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of the house from the usual timber: walls are irregular. To give them a "decent" type of them or trim finishing materials, or grind. But grinding is a controversial approach: the inter-night seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to polish the bar, where to give the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result can be greater: to the cost of a bar, add an interventical insulation, material for cacopa and the work itself (and it is not available), the cost of external and interior decoration. Consider also bringing to the plot to you, the bars of the ordered length. Bowls are peeling in place. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. From how there is a word, it depends as warm the angles will be. A B. brusade house It is the corners and are the most problematic place.

Features of the profiled bar

Considering the profiled bar, the first thing that rushes into the eyes is almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. In any case, it should be. With good quality execution, the finish is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be smooth and smooth, even at least under painting.

The second, also a fairly obvious feature, - due to the fact that the edges that two profiled timber join, have removing and protrusions (locks) of through slots can not be. Manufacturers of a profiled timber say that the walls can be placed without interventory insulation: it will also be so warm. But few of them listen. Put at least a thin but insulation. Someone uses a thin substrate for laminate, someone self-disruptive tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common profile has recently in developers - "Comb." It can have a "tooth" of different heights and widths, and love everyone for the fact that it is impossible to blow it. Nevertheless, and here it is customized, laying insulation.

Several typical bar profiles (two extreme on the right in the picture - glued bar, but exactly the same profile make profiled from the array)

In general, profiles are a lot. Some of them - in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also on how they are completed. The coincidence in any pair must be maximum.

After making the decision to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its humidity. The profiled bar is natural humidity (cheaper), there is a chamber drying with humidity no more than 14-16%. The peculiarities of the lumber of natural humidity have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company establishes large drying cabinets in which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of elevated temperatures, it loses excessive moisture. At the same time, all processes occur in the chamber, which usually accompany the drying of wood: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part goes married, and the remaining sold at a higher price. Causes, it seems clear.

If you decide to build a house from a chamber drying bar, you can start the finish before. The log house should still stand out, but it will be necessary for it 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones are expanding. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high costs for drying, most often only reduce humidity to operational - 16-18%, while the chamber drying is considered to be 8-12%.

In any case, sealing gaps. Konopka is needed in very limited volumes: First of all, you will have to view all the angles and wrestles, if there is (so called the places of fastening of the places). Even well-made bowl when dry can be uneven, because of which the gap will appear. Also, the timber can turn out what will lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So the periodic audit of the angles is also required during operation. Wood - Live Material, and all the time will change something. Also, after a year of sludge, it will have to make too large cracks in the bar (without fanaticism so that the panel does not spread the crack).

The log house is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (the numbers are blue on the ends)

It can be easier to face the assembly. If you just order a sawn timber, cutting the angles from the profiled timber, as from the usual, can be on the plot. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer part of the work to take over. With the help of a special program, make a layout of Brus: compile a list of "spare parts" of which the house will be collected. Then the blanks are cut on this list, and with molded thumbs. The billets are numbered and ready to be brought to the site, where the house remains to fold, like a designer: folding the bars by numbers marked on the plan.

It is convenient, especially if you are going to cost the house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save money for payment of carpenters: it is not required to collect such a high-qualification designer. Only in this case is warm or not there will be your home depends on how the bowls will make exactly at the production. Sometimes there are firms that make very poor-quality drums. Several of these you see in the photo.

Poor-quality made bowls - blowing will be incredibly, and caulking badly save

In general, there are its disadvantages and its advantages, but compared with the usual bar, profiled more convenient in construction, and at a price can also be cheaper, if you count with the finish.

Glued bar

By title it is clear that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are peeling, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, then glue. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag has about 2.5-3 times higher than that of the usual and 80-90% of the profiled.

What is his advantages? Properly manufactured, it does not crack, it does not lead it: drying in dry material can not be, and glued boards should have a humidity no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the process of finishing, with sufficient to compensate the heat loss of the timer, can be given only to painting or varnishing, since the protective impregnation is carried out at the enterprise (must, in any case).

What does glued bar and its profiles look like

Another consequence of the lack of drying is a folded log house after a few weeks you can immediately put under the roof, and in a few weeks you can start the finish. This time is necessary on the shrinkage of the cup, and the geometric dimensions of the glued bar should not change. That is, it turns out a significant savings of time - everything, including finishing work, can be made in one season.

But is it good for glued beads? From the point of view of the speed of construction - yes. But he has serious shortcomings. The first: it was glued. What turns out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. The second is low permeability. Many put wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally adjust the humidity in the room. The glued bar due to the presence of layers of glue this is deprived. Of all the advantages of wood, there is only an attractive appearance, but, trimmed with a lining of the appropriate profile or block house, looks likewise. Therefore, using the glued bar for the construction of the house - the question is very controversial.

Stages of construction of a house from a bar

Brusade house has several advantages:

• The walls are obtained lungs, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs of its device will be lower.
• Wood - The material is elastic and small basement of the foundation. It compensates without prejudice to the integrity of the building. And this is again the same, it allows you to make small-breeding foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of the foundation type depends in many respects from soil, but most often they do if there is no need for the basement, you can put a column (for small builds of temporary accommodation - cottages, baths, etc.) or or without). The choice is desirable to base on the results of geological research. More The process is described.

While the foundation is "grasped", prepare wood. The entire timber and brazen are treated with antiseptics and antipirens. Use compositions that do not form a film on the surface surface. They will not interfere with the drying process. After training, the bar begins the entry of the house:

• Cut-off waterproofing. So that the wood from the foundation does not pull moisture, it is necessary to pave a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of rubberoid laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and rolled. You can use them, and in combination: to deceive, stick roll.
• Laying a groin crown. The timber is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of bitch. It is desirable - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is treated with additional impregnation, designed for wood, which is in direct contact with the Earth. In order to ensure the best preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board is stacked for waterproofing, impregnated with bitumen mastic with a working on. It is still laying a layer of waterproofing, and from above - already the first crown. All these layers are associated with the foundation of studs that are filled in the foundation.
• Rough floor. Floor lags are fixed to the first crown - a timber section with a cross section of 150 * 100 mm. From stacking at least 70 cm in increments. To make it more convenient to work, the draft floor boards are unfolded by lags, without navigating them.
• Assembling walls from a bar. If the wall kit is not ordered with ready-made bowls, they are "killed". Cut down the template. From a piece of plywood, the pattern is drawn, it will be drunk, then cut down. More often use chainsaws, but a fairly high degree of ownership of the tool is required: the accuracy of the execution of the execution depends on how warm the house will be. Forms of connecting timber - in the picture.

The laying of the interventory insulation has already been told: when using an ordinary timber, it is obligatory, under profiled - desirable in the bowl, the rest is at will. Between themselves, the crowns are connected by molecules - long round bars, painted from a solid piece of wood, ducts - a rectangular shape or stiletto - metal rods. In any case, the hole is drilled by a hole in which the connecting element is clogged.

• The order of work depends on the type of the chosen roof. When the device is simple installed subcording legs, with the order of the other. On the collected rafter system is rolled and fixed windproof membrane. In this form, the house is left for a long period of destruction.
• Door and window openings. For the speedy dermiska and shrinkage, you can cut window and doorways, put the chain or fixing strips. Door and window blocks until the end of the main shrinkage does not put.

Upon expiration of the year, two can be searched for finishing work. All the time until the log house is defended, it is necessary to track the processes occurring in the wood. Immediately it is necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, to cross them. Then track the status of them, as well as timber connections. If brazed up with a lot of effort, the timing can hang on them, because of which the slots are formed. You can solve the problem with a breakdown: take a huge wooden hammer and knocking on the walls, causing a faster shrinkage. The same reception is used if the house is too slow.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from a bar. Despite lyrical deviations, a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

Built such a house.

We ordered a wall set on the project, a belt foundation is filled under it.

Brought blanks with stuffed bowls. They were neatly unloaded, while examining for flaws. One bar was problematic - he was in the middle of a bundle and suffocated - he was covered with a fungus postponed on a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valley of the Love) and folded in the stack.

So that there were no problems with fungus under each laid gasket - boards lying across.

Also purchased the rolls of the insulation and braid. The copper was sent to swim in the impregnation. In the old bath poured impregnation and left them for half a day, then got it and dried.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid - half-breed. He has no grooves at the bottom.

It was attracted to the foundation with anchors to the stiletto poured into concrete.

Put the first crown. The one that previously fastened on the foundation is called "zero".

We are diagonally. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there was no skew, they should be equal. Permissible skew - a couple of millimeters.

Aligning the diagonals, drills the holes for the sewage. So that there are no holes more / less than it is necessary in length, the leather-limiter planned on the drill.

Walls gradually grow. In checkelling order, they fasten them with anticipation.

In general, the bar is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly washed cups. When putting a bar, we get a huge gap. Fight it - only manually customized cups to go all exactly.

It takes a lot of time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but all the walls are gradually laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber

We proceed to assembling the rafter system. First, as is customary, two extreme farms are installed, then everything else, on the project.

The finished crate was chosen to rubberoid. So leave the house to dry.

Inside, we lay the blackboard boards, feeding each fifth. They will be dried with the house.

Video on the topic

Errors that are allowed during the construction of houses from the profiled bar are described in detail and disassembled in this video. Very helpful. Look.