Insulation of the cottage outside. Features of warming country houses

THREE IMPORTANT STEPS TO ENERGY EFFICIENCY

The question "Why insulate the house?" belongs to the category of rhetorical. My home will be my fortress only when it is protected from all dangers, including the cold. At the same time, the term "insulation" in relation to the constructed buildings should gradually leave our vocabulary. What we call insulation should become an integral part of a building and structure. Insulation, or rather, thermal insulation, must be incorporated into the project and installed directly during construction, and not after the built house turns out to be cold. But if this happened to your private house (cottage, summer cottage), then you need to roll up your sleeves and take up the insulation, but before that you go through three important steps to energy efficiency:

understand the nuances of insulating your home: a lot depends on the material from which it is built;

choose and buy insulation for the house - there are a lot of materials, and each manufacturer, together with dealers, praises his own;

decide on the method of insulating the house - from the inside or outside.

Let's go through these three steps, after which you can start insulation.

Some features of the insulation of a private house

With thermal insulation frame house it must be remembered that the wood must be dry and in order to avoid the ingress of water vapor into the walls, a high-quality vapor barrier is required.

Insulating brick house, find out what kind of brick it is built from. By the type of material, it can be ceramic, silicate, oven, etc. By the way of filling - full-bodied or hollow. It is also important to know how to lay bricks when building your home. It could be solid and well.

Gas insulated concrete house do not rush: it comes to the construction site with a moisture content of up to 30% (this is the technology of its manufacture), and before insulation it is recommended to wait for it to dry for 5-6 months.

As for the monolithic concrete cottage, do not forget what to insulate building construction from this material it is possible not earlier than 28 days after their construction - this is the time needed for concrete to gain the required strength.

Thermal insulation of a cottage from a bar should be performed no earlier than a year after construction: it is necessary to wait for shrinkage.

The choice of insulation for the house

For those who have a vague idea of the main thermal insulation materials used in the construction and repair of houses, we advise you to remember the "golden childhood", when they studied chemistry at school. First inorganic, then organic. Thermal insulation can also be inorganic and organic.

The first includes, first of all, mineral wool insulation: stone wool and glass wool.

The second is formed by heat-insulating materials made of polymers, mainly expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam. Expanded polystyrene heaters are different types... Each of us is familiar with Styrofoam - white, fragile granular material, which, in addition to insulating houses, is widely used in the packaging of household appliances. Its "relative" PENOPLEX® is known to those of us who, to one degree or another, are experienced in matters of repair and construction. Both of these materials differ in the way they are made. Polyfoam is created by "steaming" polystyrene microgranules; for the production of PENOPLEX®, extrusion is used - forcing the granules through a forming hole. Therefore, PENOPLEX® is also called extruded polystyrene foam.

In the physics course, we all studied thermal phenomena, we were told what thermal conductivity is. This property depends on the nature of the material, each has its own, quantitatively characterized by the coefficient of thermal conductivity, which is denoted Greek letterλ (lambda). Recall that the lower this parameter, the worse the material conducts heat and the less heat energy it releases from the room to the street. Accordingly, the better it is suitable for insulation.

Let's compare the coefficients of thermal conductivity of the mentioned heat-insulating materials (according to SP 50.13330.2012).

Some variation in readings depends mainly on the density of the material.

So, PENOPLEX® is a leader in heat-shielding properties, along with which it has an impressive set of other advantages:

Low water absorption: allows you to maintain heat-shielding properties;

Durable: withstands loads;

Biologically stable: does not rot or mold;

Withstands high and low temperatures: application range from -70 to + 75 ° C.

PENOPLEX® does not have the disadvantages of other heaters, which we will not dwell on in more detail, but we will analyze the expediency of using this material for thermal insulation of houses from different materials.

House insulation PENOPLEX®: which side is better

For thermal insulation brick house PENOPLEX® is good outside, inside and inside walls. However, the latter is very effective method acceptable only for the construction of a building. External insulation will hide from the eyes the beauty of brick, which many, including professional architects, consider the most expressive building material. Internal thermal insulation will “eat away” the living space. But all these shortcomings are already in the plane of aesthetics, not practicality. Read more about external insulation of a brick house.

For frame houses, the same questions are relevant as for brick ones. You also need to take into account the fact that in frame houses there are many hard-to-reach places for thermal insulation boards. Therefore, together with PENOPLEX®, it is necessary to use sprayed insulation for thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places, for example, PENOPLEX FASTFIX. Read more about the construction technology of a frame house and its additional insulation.

On the network, you can find warnings about the internal insulation of aerated concrete houses: doubts are expressed about the safety of PENOPLEX® for environment... However, according to the North-West Scientific Center for Hygiene and Public Health (accredited by Rospotrebnadzor) No. 01.05.P.00107.03.15 dated 03.16.2015, it is safe for the environment.

You can watch a simple and understandable video about the construction of an aerated concrete house and its insulation. Trained and technically competent readers will certainly be interested in building houses from lightweight blocks (concrete, aerated concrete, cinder blocks and other cellular concrete) using PENOPLEX®.

For a concrete house, external insulation is better, because it protects not only the premises from the cold, but also the wall itself, which in this case will not be saturated with moisture and will not freeze. The excellent water-repellent properties of PENOPLEX® will not allow this.

For a house from a bar, both internal and is acceptable. It is important to remember that the timber is dry before installing the thermal insulation.

Summary

The heat-shielding properties of PENOPLEX® will not give rise to doubts about its effectiveness and quality against the background of other heaters. It is suitable for thermal insulation country houses from any material: brick, concrete, aerated concrete, timber, frame houses.

In most cases, external insulation of PENOPLEX® houses is preferable, except for brick houses the best option would be in-wall thermal insulation, which, however, is possible only with well masonry. When PENOPLEX® is used as thermal insulation, external insulation gets rid of its main drawback - seasonality. PENOPLEX® is resistant to impact of both high and low temperatures, as well as to their drop. Its installation can be performed at any time of the year.

Summer - the best time think about winter, especially if you're a suburban property owner and don't want to spend a fortune on heating your home during the colder months. And if so, then it's time to get down to business and immediately proceed to the device of facade insulation.

A logical question arises: why is it necessary to insulate the walls from the outside?

There are good reasons for this. Internal thermal insulation reduces the valuable floor space of the home. In addition, when insulating facades, the Golden Rule heat engineering: layers in the building envelope should be arranged in order of increasing thermal insulation capacity.

Otherwise, there will be an imbalance - the internal steam, bypassing the home insulation, will "abut" against the cold wall and turn into condensation. Dampness is a paradise of mold, fungi and other harmful flora.

In this situation, the comfort of the premises is at least questionable. Of course, if there is no other way out, then they are insulated from the inside (for example, the walls of corner apartments), but Vacation home- this is not the case.

OUR ADVICE
The installation of a particular facade system is preceded by preparation base surface.
The walls are cleaned of layers, leveled and strengthened with the help of special soil and repair compounds.
The deviation from the vertical and horizontal should not exceed 1-1.5 mm per 1 running meter of the wall. If the curvature significantly exceeds the standard value, then the walls should be leveled with plaster.

The best thing, if the facade insulation is provided for by the project... This move allows you to reduce the estimated cost of construction.

The thickness of the outer walls is determined based on the conditions for ensuring the strength and stability of the structure, and the responsibility for saving heat is shifted to the external thermal insulation. But more often existing buildings need facade insulation.

They also get a benefit - a reduction in heating costs and a favorable microclimate in the house. In construction practice, two main systems of facade insulation are used: heat-insulating-bonded (plaster, wet) and hinged. In addition, a combined method is used.

Like a glove

The heat-insulating-bonded system includes adhesives, plasters and reinforcing nets (they provide fixation of the heat-insulating layer, as well as its protection from external influences).

To keep the facade insulation firmly on the walls, you should use branded complexes, that is, a set of components produced by one manufacturer (RockFacade from Rockwool, Denmark-Russia; Warm Wall from Knauf, Germany-Russia; Capatect from Caparol, BauColor from BauCoior; Ceresit from Henkel Bautechnik - both Germany, weber.therm.cottage, trademark weber-vetonit international concern Saint-Gobain, etc.). "Foreign" products may not take root in the friendly family of "native" materials, which will lead to partial delamination or even destruction of the thermal insulation system.

Thermal insulation boards are glued to the walls with a special mineral glue and additionally fixed with facade dowels.

The first row is installed on an aluminum rail. The insulation is mounted without gaps and voids. True, between the expanded polystyrene plates there are narrow gaps that fill polyurethane foam... A polymer-modified adhesive mixture is applied to the thermal insulation lining, into which an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is embedded. This is followed by another layer of mineral glue and decorative coating (structural plaster, facade paint and ceramic tiles, etc.). If all the work is done strictly according to the instructions, then the warm wet facade seems to grow together with outside wall, will become a stable basis for the embodiment of architectural ideas in any style.

Air movement

Hinged facade systems are arranged differently. They include mineral insulation, which is filled with a frame attached to the walls, formed from the slats. Such a wall frame is part of a substructure that carries not only insulation plates, but also a protective and decorative screen. Between the heat-insulating layer and the outer “firmament”, a ventilated space is arranged (this is where another name for the system is - a ventilated facade), in which a “tamed” breeze blows from the bottom up under the action of traction. Air currents erode water, be it leaked raindrops or thickened steam. In addition, the air gap is a "classic" heat trap.

Held by her thermal energy redistributed over the area of the facade, which creates an additional warming "underlay" for the facade.

Suspended systems are manufactured and assembled at the factory according to the customer's drawings. A protective and decorative screen is formed from siding or tiles that imitate stone or brickwork.

However, manufacturers offer other types of finishes as well. Nobody will mistake a country house with a ventilated facade for an office center or, say, a shopping pavilion.

These cottages look quite traditional and fit organically into the rural idyll.

Wooden Art Nouveau

Houses made of solid non-profiled timber are often erected with the expectation of insulating the walls from the outside.

Mineral wool thermal insulation is placed between wooden slats or galvanized metal profile guides attached to the facades. Then a hydro-windproof vapor-permeable membrane is pulled and a decorative screen is mounted. Usually this role is played by vinyl siding... The result is a very nice, warm and inexpensive home with all the advantages of a timber structure.

Folk art

In the private sector, a certain symbiosis of the hinged system and plaster facade... As a protective screen, sheathing with waterproof sheet material is used - cement particle boards (CSP), oriented particle boards (OSB), glass-magnesium sheets (LSU), etc.

The seams between the sheets are carefully putty. Renovated facades are plastered, primed, and then decorative coating is applied (facade paint, structural plaster, fake diamond, ceramic tiles, etc.), that is, they act in exactly the same way as when finishing a thermal insulation system using a wet type.

At the same time, in terms of impermeability, the plastered hinged facade will not yield to the brick facing wall. For the device of the sub-structure, a galvanized steel profile is used, which can be purchased at any building supermarket along with packages of thermal insulation boards and a hydro-windproof membrane. In other words, the combined method allows you to significantly save on the facade insulation of the cottage.

One-time solution

If you need to quickly insulate and decorate a house, then it makes sense to use effective and aesthetically pleasing thermal panels. At the heart of these products is a plate of dense polystyrene foam with a thickness of 40-100 mm or polyurethane foam with a thickness of 25-40 mm.

Some models also have a rigid OSB substrate, which provides additional strength and geometric stability to the facade insulation.

One-time solution

If you need to quickly insulate and decorate a house, then it makes sense to use effective and aesthetically pleasing thermal panels.

At the heart of these products is a plate made of dense polystyrene foam with a thickness of 40-100 mm or polyurethane foam with a thickness of 25-40 mm. Some models also have a rigid OSB substrate, which provides additional strength and geometric stability to the facade insulation.

From the outside, the thermal panels are faced with thin-walled clinker bricks, porcelain stoneware, glazed or engobered ceramic tiles, artificial stone.

Installation begins with marking the base surface (flat and clean) and fixing the starting aluminum profile, on which first the corner and then ordinary thermal panels are installed. Panel insulation is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The joints are filled with polyurethane foam, and at the final stage - with colored mineral grout.

Unity and struggle of heaters

The mineral heat insulator is durable, vapor-permeable (that is, it does not interfere with the walls "breathing"), is resistant to biological damage and fire-resistant (prevents the spread of fire and thereby increases the fire safety of the building).

An alternative option - facade expanded polystyrene - is cheaper and at the same time noticeably surpasses stone and glass wool in terms of thermal performance.

However, the polymer heat insulator burns (although it belongs to hardly flammable and self-extinguishing materials) and almost does not allow steam to pass through.

For reasons of fire safety, cuts are made of mineral wool on the expanded polystyrene "field".

In addition, windows and doors are framed with "stone" insulation.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Insulating a house from the outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure that you can handle on your own, even without any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation raises a lot of questions, moreover, it requires strict adherence to the technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below I will describe to you several ways how to carry out external insulation as efficiently as possible and without damage to the structure.

External insulation methods

Many people who first encounter insulation do not know how best to arrange the insulation from the inside or outside. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, in private houses, for a number of reasons, it is the external thermal insulation that should be performed:

if you place the heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before insulation. Moreover, a heat insulator will form in the space between the wall and the insulation;
from the inside, it is impossible to provide thermal insulation of the floor, as a result of which the insulation is defective;
internal thermal insulation reduces living space.

Thus, the answer to the above question is unambiguous - internal insulation performed only when absolutely necessary.

So, if you decide to insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you will need dry heat-insulating material in the form of plates or mats for these purposes. As a rule, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene is used as insulation. With their help, you can insulate the facade in several ways:

wet facade- the technology consists in gluing insulation and applying plaster over it. This method is widespread due to its relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and fragility, in comparison with other finishing methods;

curtain facade- is a frame to which facade materials are attached (siding, wall paneling, facade, etc.). At the same time, the insulation is located in the space between finishing material and a wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time it is more expensive;
lining with heat-insulating blocks, which can be made of wood concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, etc. I must say that the thermal insulation properties of these materials are worse than foam or, for example, mineral wool. But they have a higher strength.

If, for example, you need to insulate an old wooden or summer cottage frame house, then this method of insulation is the best solution... Moreover, block insulation can be combined with other heat insulators.

Everyone should decide how and with what to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the situation, financial capabilities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you can see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we will consider in more detail all the insulation options described above.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to properly implement a wet facade. To do this, you will need the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or plates (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam);
special dowels for insulation ("fungi");
insulation glue;
aluminum perforated corners
fiberglass mesh;
primer;
decorative plaster;
dye.

Before buying a heat insulator, people are always interested - what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save money and use foam. If the building is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool, which will serve as a fire protection.

The process of installing a heater with your own hands looks like this:

first of all, you need to prepare the facade for work - to dismantle all the elements that will interfere with the installation of insulation;
then you need to dilute the glue with water according to the instructions on the package;
then the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue with "bloopers" in the corners and in the center, which will give more opportunity to align the slabs relative to each other.

It should be noted that at this stage it is necessary to provide an even vertical surface of the walls, therefore, in the process of gluing the insulation, you need to use the level and beacons (horizontally stretched thread along the wall along which each row of the heat insulator is aligned);

then the insulation is additionally fixed with dowels... For this, holes are drilled in the wall directly through the slabs or mats. It is necessary to hammer in the dowels so that they are recessed and do not protrude above the wall surface;

according to the same scheme, the slopes are pasted over, the only thing is that they are not fixed with dowels;
after that, the evenness of the walls should be checked by the rule, if necessary, individual areas can be rubbed with a float;
after that, perforated aluminum corners are glued to all outer corners;
then the caps of the screws are covered with glue;
the next step is to glue the mesh. To do this, you need to use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A mesh is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is drawn along it, as a result of which it is embedded in the adhesive.

Note that the mesh must first be cut into canvases of the required length, taking into account the fact that it should be overlapped and twisted at the corners;

after drying, the glue is reapplied to the wall surface in a thin layer. In order for the composition to lie flat, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
when the glue dries, the surface is treated with a primer using paint roller... The composition is applied in two passes;

after the soil has dried, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and leveled with a small piece. When the composition begins to set, the plaster is rubbed with small circular or reciprocating movements;
the final stage is painting. There is nothing complicated in this procedure - the roller must be dipped in a bath of paint and then treated with it on the wall. The paint is applied in two layers.

This completes the work. It should be noted that this technology can be used to insulate not only private house but also an apartment.

Curtain facade

It is no more difficult to carry out a hinged facade on your own than a wet one. To do this, you need to prepare the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or slabs;
metal profile or wooden bar for mounting the frame;
adjustable brackets;
vapor barrier film;
dowels for insulation;
finishing material for the facade.

Many people are sure that the cheaper the heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or foam can be of different quality... For example, cheap mineral wool can be exposed to moisture, and foam can easily catch fire and sustain combustion, so materials are best used from well-known brands, even if they are not the cheapest.

Insulation instructions look like this:

after preparing the facade, you must first of all carry out the installation. There are quite a few options for its design and the location of the insulation in it. Most often, the racks are mounted on brackets, between which mats or plates are placed.
I must say that the installation of the frame is the most critical stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks must be placed in the same vertical plane;

then insulation is laid between the racks and fixed with dowels;
then a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation. As a rule, it is fixed on the frame. To do this, you can use rails that are mounted horizontally, while the film is located between them and the racks;
at the end of the work, the frame is sheathed with facade material, after which additional elements are installed - ebbs, corners, etc.

This completes the installation of the curtain facade with your own hands.

Facing with heat-insulating blocks

If you need to insulate an old, for example, a log house, then it is better to build additional walls for it, which will also serve as a heater. Of course, this will take more time and effort, but the result fully justifies these costs.

There are quite a few options for revealing the walls. The most common materials are:

blocks from sibit (it is more correct to say aerated concrete, since Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which the people began to call the material it produces);
wood concrete blocks - made of wood chips mixed with cement;
gas silicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, lime is used as the basis of their composition. In addition, this material is obtained by autoclaving;
from polystyrene concrete - contain foam plastic granules in their structure;
from expanded clay concrete - contain expanded clay granules in their structure.

So that you can decide on the materials yourself and understand, for example, the better a block made of gas silicate in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will give a table with the main characteristics of these materials:

As we can see, some materials gain in strength, while others - in thermal conductivity. For example, gas silicate block more durable than wood concrete, but at the same time it is more heat-conducting.

Of course, the price of the material is also an important factor in the choice. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cubic meter, and polystyrene concrete material costs about the same. The price of gas silicate is slightly cheaper - about 3000 rubles per cubic meter.

House cladding technology is as follows:

a shallow foundation is made around the perimeter of the house. On our portal you can find detailed information about the arrangement of such a foundation;
then the foundation is waterproofed with several layers of roofing material;
further, a wall is erected along the perimeter of the house. Since the blocks are large, it is much easier to carry out masonry than from bricks. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie exactly and in the same plane, therefore, in the process of work, you must use a level, plumb lines and beacons;

if a wooden country house is faced, after several rows, pins are laid into the facing wall, which are pre-hammered into the wooden wall. The pitch of the pins should be about a meter and a half.

Walls built from heat-insulating blocks need further finishing, for example, plastering. Therefore, this insulation technology is rarely used. Most often it is used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen and insulate a garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can brick it and place mineral mats between the walls. Of course, the costs in this case will be much higher, but additional finishing is not required, and the building will acquire a solid and presentable look.

Here, in fact, are all the options for external insulation of houses, with which I would like to acquaint you.

Output

As we found out, there are several ways to effectively insulate houses outside, which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of the technology that is optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to break the sequence of actions described above and do the work carefully.

The video in this article contains more information. If in the process of warming you encounter any difficulties or some points are not completely clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

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Most of the private brick houses in our country are negatively affected by strong fluctuations in air temperatures. If the building is not insulated on time, about 60% of the heat will "leave" from the living quarters through the walls.

That is why it is very important to timely install the thermal insulation of the facade, which will not only protect the house from heat leaks, but also allow the owners of the cottage to significantly save on electricity consumption in late autumn and winter.

Materials (edit)

To insulate the facade of a brick house, the following building materials are used today:

relatively inexpensive expanded polystyrene - the vapor permeability of this material is low, and the fire hazard is quite high;
mineral wool is a more expensive material than polystyrene; it is distinguished by its durability, excellent thermal insulation performance, good vapor permeability;
quite often you can find brick houses insulated with glass wool - its water absorption rate is higher than that of mineral wool; the level of thermal insulation is also very high.

The main methods of isolation

When a brick cottage is insulated, different technologies of this process are used. For example, in panel apartment buildings thermal insulation is carried out by sealing the seams between the panels. If decorative plaster is used, the method is called "wet".

Also, the facade can be protected from heat loss using foam plastic, or by installing a multi-layer thermal insulation system.

Recently, a large number of suburban real estate owners prefer to install ventilated facades. It is worth learning more specific information about each of the methods.

The use of expanded polystyrene

The "wet" method of cladding is considered one of the most popular in our country. Before insulating a house, it is necessary to rid the outer walls of old finishing material and dirt. Further, the surface of the walls must be leveled - for this it is best to use a cement-based facade putty. Further, all work is carried out strictly in the following sequence:

after processing the surface of the walls of a brick house, a profile is mounted on it: for this, the fittings are fixed in an upright position using special dowels (it is worth remembering that the gap between the profiles should not exceed 5 mm);
as soon as the profile has been finally mounted, on the foam panels, using a small spatula, apply a special glue in an even layer;
gluing the slabs to the facade is as follows: it is necessary to ensure that the slabs are exposed strictly in horizontal and vertical positions to the ground;
now it is necessary to additionally secure the sheets with dowels: for this, a hole is drilled in the designated places with a drill and then the dowels are driven into them directly;
finally, The final stage- application decorative plaster on the wall of a brick building; in the construction markets today there are enough such materials, which allows the owners of the cottage to realize any ideas.

Quite often, polystyrene is also used when installing a multilayer thermal insulation system in a brick cottage. All the steps from cleaning the walls to fixing the panels with dowels are identical to the previous method, but then it will be necessary to additionally create a reinforcing layer. For this purpose, builders use a reinforcing mesh, as well as a special mixture.

Mesh sheets should be overlapped. After the canvases have been laid, it is necessary to plaster the wall, while the plaster layer will be approximately 3 mm. As soon as the plaster dries, a layer of decorative mixture is applied to the walls of the house.

Ventilated system

Another system that can often be found in country cottages is ventilated facades. For their installation, you will need materials such as facing tiles, insulation and a supporting structure made of high-quality metal. In this way, today you can insulate a cottage using the following materials:

HPL-panels - materials made of paper-laminated plastic;
fiber cement boards - in addition to cement, they also include mineral fillers and a substance such as cellulose;
natural stone - the most demanded stone is granite;
copper panels are very popular in our country, as they are durable and are not subject to mechanical damage;
porcelain stoneware is the simplest from the point of view of installing a thermal insulation system at home, and at the same time one of the most durable insulation materials.

The structure of the ventilated facade of a country cottage consists of several layers. The entire installation process should be carried out in strict accordance with the technical recommendations:

for a start, they mount to the wall of a brick building supporting structure made of either aluminum or solid steel: the supporting profiles are fixed strictly vertically with special brackets, all profiles must be mounted in a single plane;
as a result, cavities form in the wall between metal profiles where the insulation is installed (it is best to use mineral wool); the gap between the material and the wall should not exceed 40 mm;
finally, the last stage of all work on the installation of a ventilated system of a brick house is the final decoration of its walls.

Composite panels or siding are used today as finishing materials. For fastenings when mounting materials on the walls of a brick cottage, special sleds, corners or hooks are used.

The use of a ventilated facade to protect the walls of a brick building gives its owners a number of significant advantages:

the ability to install at any time (even during severe cold weather, installation is quite quick to complete);
such insulation will protect the walls of the cottage from negative impacts frost, snow, precipitation, as well as from heat losses;
this method will provide the building with additional sound insulation, as well as waterproofing;
the installation of a ventilated facade is considered the most durable in comparison with all other methods of thermal insulation.

Relatively recently, in order to insulate a house, they began to use a modern and durable material - thermal panels made of polyurethane foam. Moreover, their use not only saves the living quarters of the cottage from unnecessary heat losses, but also gives the building a rather attractive appearance: fortunately, the range of thermal panels in the construction markets is very diverse.

In addition, they are distinguished by high resistance to strong frosts, resistance to open fire, easy installation even for a non-professional, and aesthetic appearance. Polyurethane foam is capable of protecting walls for up to approximately 30 years. In addition, the thermal panels can be easily repainted in a different color at any time, while the material used for the thermal insulation of the house will not suffer in any way.

Our homes do not lose nearly half of their heat by blowing it through windows and doors. Up to 40% of the heat literally escapes through the cold walls. Having realized and felt this fact, have you decided to insulate the walls outside your house? Well, the costs of these works will be more than paid off in the near future - your loved ones will be warm and comfortable, and the bills for gas or electricity will be much lower due to the insulation of the walls outside the house.

It is the insulation of the walls of a private house from the outside, not from the inside, that is the most effective way to make your house really warm and at the same time prevent excessive condensation of moisture on the walls: an incorrectly calculated "dew point" often increases the accumulation of moisture on the walls of a house insulated from the inside.

In addition, the loss of 5 centimeters of space from each wall, as well as the complete release and thorough preliminary preparation of the internal vertical surfaces, push you to make a choice in favor of insulating the walls of a private house from the outside.

The insulation layer becomes a barrier between the cold outside air and the indoor microclimate of the house. Another plus - the insulated walls of the house from the outside will be additionally protected from moisture and sunlight, which means they will serve and will not require updating for longer.

So, the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside has the following advantages over internal insulation:

all the interior space of the house is preserved up to a millimeter;
the walls are not subject to sharp temperature changes, the humidity level remains approximately at the same level.

When insulating the walls of the house from the outside, some features should be taken into account:

it is necessary to install scaffolding and dismantle them after work - this is additional time and money;
in rain and strong wind, as well as in the cold season, work should not be carried out;
the appearance of the building will change.

How to insulate the walls of a frame house outside

Often during operation, it becomes necessary to make additional insulation of the walls of a frame house from the outside. Frame houses are typical low-rise buildings in the architecture of the countries of Northern Europe and Scandinavia. Wooden beams, serving as a frame for such houses - a characteristic element of the houses of Europeans since ancient times. Prefab houses are lightweight, quick to create, and resemble a sandwich. The frame is filled with heat, moisture and wind insulating materials, which are attached to each other using a special technology and sequence and are sheathed with plaster, timber or tiles from the outside. Most often, the walls of such a frame house are insulated from the outside using foam plates.

First, the walls are prepared - they are cleaned of dirt and dust, leveled, and primed. They glue the foam with a special glue, they also process the walls themselves, and foam boards... For a more durable fastening of the material when insulating frame walls outside use special plastic dowels - "umbrellas".

Insulation of the frame walls from the outside continues by applying a protective layer to the foam - putty is applied in two layers to the reinforcing mesh, and at the end of the plaster, it becomes additional protection when the temperature changes abruptly.

Competent wall insulation outside a wooden house

An eco-friendly and lightweight house made of lumber or logs is an excellent choice for the summer. But if you decide to spend time there in winter, you have to make the walls insulation from the outside. wooden house... Then the thin walls will not give off heat very quickly, and the wooden structure will become all-season.

Wall insulation outside such a wooden house begins with the installation of a frame - wooden blocks stuffed vertically at the same distance from each other. Fiberglass fits tightly between the bars. The next layer is transverse bars and again fiberglass between them.

When insulating wooden walls outside there should not even be a minimum gap between the bars, insulation and the wall. Thermal insulation of wooden walls is coming to an end finishing works and here it is just necessary to leave a small - up to 5 cm gap between the heat-insulating layer and the finishing material for ventilation.

How is the insulation of walls outside a brick house carried out?

Preparing to insulate the walls outside a brick house, are you at a loss for the offers on the market? In fact, wall insulation outside any brick house can be carried out using different materials - this is mineral, glass wool, expanded polystyrene, and foam insulation, as well as special heat-insulating plasters and paints.

At the same time, if mineral wool and expanded polystyrene can even be used independently when insulating walls outside a brick house, then fiberglass, penoizol, heat-insulating plasters can only be effectively used by professional craftsmen. In any case, when undertaking wall insulation outside a brick house, you need to consult in detail with various specialists. It is better, of course, if the calculations are carried out by an experienced designer who can take into account a combination of various factors.

Outside wall insulation technology: there is plenty to choose from

Today, there is more than one technology for insulating walls from the outside.

Consider the most commonly used outside wall insulation technologies:

Well method- the walls are insulated during the construction process, the insulation is laid inside the walls.

The advantages of this technology are relative cheapness, high-quality thermal insulation, and fire safety. Disadvantages - it is difficult to check the condition of the insulation, ten years after construction, the quality of the insulation can significantly decrease.

Insulation of the foundation and basement walls- it is used to reduce heat loss due to soil freezing. Insulation becomes a layer between the foundation or basement walls and the ground. Insulation (most often extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to the walls with special mastic, and then covered with soil. With this technology of wall insulation outside, the material does not need additional protection, since it practically does not absorb moisture. Also, due to its high strength, this material can withstand very heavy loads.

If they are insulated basement walls, then plaster or other decorative facing can be applied to the expanded polystyrene.

Wet facade technology. When applied, thermal insulation is laid in several layers. First, insulation is glued or fixed - mineral wool with a density of at least 80 kg per m2 or foam with a density of at least 30 kg per m2. Further attached reinforced mesh, on top of which a primer is applied and only then plaster or paint.

It is important that all materials that are used for this technology of wall insulation from the outside correspond to each other in terms of hygroscopicity, vapor permeability, frost resistance.

Ventilated facade- the technology of wall insulation from the outside, which is used both during the construction of a new house and the insulation of an existing one. A crate is attached to the surface of the wall, between the slats of which sheets of thermal insulation are mounted, everything is covered with a special film that does not let water into the middle, but does not prevent steam from escaping. Facade panels are mounted on top - ceramic or vinyl siding.

It is important that between cladding panels and the foil had at least 25 mm of ventilation distance. You can easily check the condition of the insulation or replace it - just remove the top panels.

Spraying with polyurethane. It is applied from special sprayers to any surface, including external walls at home. Despite the simplicity of the technology, it can only be produced by highly qualified specialists.

How to choose a material for wall insulation outside

Development modern technologies constantly offers improved material for wall insulation outside.

The most commonly used materials for wall insulation outside:

Styrofoam (or expanded polystyrene)- plastic containing many air bubbles is produced in plates and other forms.
Mineral wool - the material, which is obtained from silicate melts of metallurgical slags and rocks, has a fibrous structure, it happens in rolls and plates.
Fiberglass (glass wool)- a material similar to mineral wool is made from waste glass industry, it happens in rolls and slabs.
Extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam- made by extrusion from polystyrene.

So, we examined the main materials and technologies used in the modern construction world to insulate the outer walls of houses made of various building materials. We hope that with the help of these tips you will make the most correct decision for your case and your home will be filled with warmth and comfort.

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