Layout of the annex to the house. Layout of an extension to a private house

By designation, all extensions to the house are divided into:

living room;
garage;
terrace;
summer cuisine;
porch.

By the type of material used, extensions are:

frame;
brick;
from foam blocks;
from a bar.

At the first stage of preparation for construction, it is necessary to decide whether the construction of a capital structure is planned or not. The device of a shed or terrace is quite possible without a project that is carried out by a specialized organization; a plan or diagram may be enough. The construction of a living room or a garage is best done using a specially designed or tied to specific conditions already finished project annexes to wooden house... Savings at this stage, as a rule, turn into additional, much higher construction costs.

Capital structures

The project of the frame extension of the room

Advantages of using a frame structure:

construction speed;
absence of structure settlement at the first stages of operation;
small load on the foundation, and as a result, minor requirements for it;
excellent compatibility with the wooden structures of the main private house.

The frame structure is especially suitable in the case of the construction of a two-story extension to a country house, since it is much lighter than other types of construction.

Expansion project from foam blocks

An extension from foam blocks is one of the most common options, since it simultaneously combines the relative cheapness of work and their simplicity. In addition, these are far from all the advantages of using this technology.

Advantages:

construction speed;
durability of the structure (at least 50 years);
a small load on the foundation (a base on the pillars is enough instead of a strip one);
structural strength;
simplicity of construction technology;
the ability of the material to "breathe".

Flaw:

need exterior decoration facade due to the unattractive appearance of the blocks.

Timber extension project

Structurally and technologically, everything that was said about frame extensions can also be attributed to structures made of timber. In fact, the combined option is most often used.

The main points when building an extension from a bar:

the foundation for it must be similar to the foundation for the main building and be connected to it;
it is possible to use a more economical pile foundation, of course, in the case of a design calculation;

it is necessary to create an expansion joint between the house and the extension, which will prevent damage to the walls when the new structure shrinks;

the technology for erecting the structure of the walls and roof of the extension is similar to the technology for building a house.

Non-capital buildings

Polycarbonate veranda

The conventional wisdom that a veranda is a warehouse for storing unnecessary things (tools, bicycles, skis and other junk) is fundamentally wrong. In fact, this is a great opportunity to create a comfortable and beautiful seating area. Especially if you use for this modern designs and materials.

Highlights when building a veranda:

can have almost any configuration - rectangle, square, semicircle with an arch-like roof;

the lightness of the structure allows its erection on a minimum foundation, for example, a strip with a depth and width of only 30 cm. on a sand cushion 20 cm thick;

it is advisable to build a small basement, to which the frame structures are attached;
polycarbonate itself, due to the properties of the material, is easily cut and mounted on an already assembled frame.

Canopy

A canopy is usually built to protect any used space from precipitation. Thus, you can equip almost the entire territory adjacent to the house for a summer dining room, playgrounds and much more.

A canopy structure usually consists of:

pillars dug in to a depth of about 0.5 meters and poured with concrete;
horizontal beams, and one of them must be attached to the wall of the house;

rafters and battens along them;
roofing material.

The existing variety of materials and various structural elements allows you to create a variety of combinations in the construction of sheds. But most often, when building an extension to a wooden house, wood and metal tiles are used.

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, then the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. A step-by-step instruction on the stages of construction with photographs will help you make a useful and beautiful extension, like in the video, which will last for many years.

So that the extension does not later have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

Due to the extension, you can expand the area of the house

Additional room. Building an extra room is tantamount to building a small house. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of summing up engineering communications before you start building the foundation. Places of passage of plumbing or sewer pipes it is necessary to insulate well through the foundation. It is easier and cheaper to do it during the construction phase.
The veranda is an easy extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer vacations. The building is not heated, so the construction is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to different weight verandas and houses. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation, erected on a soil prone to heaving, will "lead", and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls, under weight brickwork shrinkage is inevitable.

Column brick foundation

For construction use different materials: concrete, brick, stone, piles of wood, metal or concrete It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

tape;
slab;
columnar;
pile;
pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let's consider in more detail step by step instructions arrangement of foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of base is chosen. It is advisable to make it out of concrete in the following sequence.

Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column foundation

For easy frame veranda it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is erected from brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or they combine these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the ground. The step between the posts is about 60 cm. The sequence of work:

dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured at the bottom and carefully tamped;
lay a layer concrete mortar, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use a level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
a concrete support is made in the same way as a strip type of foundation: they are wrapped interior the formwork is waterproofed and the reinforced frame is inserted. The mold is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Moisten the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;

For the veranda, it is enough columnar foundation

after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pillar, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect wooden bar floors from getting wet;
the remaining voids are filled with backfilling: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, it is tamped every 15 cm of the layer.

Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated in such a way that the distance to the finished floor of the extension is 30 cm.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on the strip type of foundation. The base on the pillars is deliberately calculated for arranging a wooden floor. Let's take a look at both technologies.

Erection of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from a bar, fastening strapping to the previously assembled crown beams. The elements of the walls are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:

On the lower beams of the harness, every 50 cm, make a cut for the uprights.
Mount the racks by fixing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
Assemble the top harness.

Frame erection

The veranda is mated with the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
Fix all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will stiffen the structure.
After the roof has been erected and insulated, insert the windows and doors.

Overlap and roof

The pitched roof type is compatible with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. We will consider it.

Insulation of walls and floors

As an insulating material for walls, they use mineral wool... The mats are easy and quick to fit between the frame bars, as you can see in the photo. When laying the insulation in several layers, the mats are displaced relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the joint seams. Insulation on both sides is covered with steam and wind insulation material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and sheathed on top finishing material. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or clapboard. For outer wall use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as the walls: mineral wool is laid on the rough floor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, the finishing flooring is mounted.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, apply a dry screed, make concrete screed and equip water or electric heating.

DIYers often overlook the need to comply with safety requirements. Wear personal protective equipment and a well-run reliable tool and then you will have only the warmest memories of the construction of the extension.

Frame extension on piles: video

The desire to increase your country house over time, it appears in almost every owner of a private house. And an excellent solution in this matter will be an extension to an existing house.

Begin construction works from drawing up a project, where it is worthwhile to clearly and clearly draw the plan of the planned object, think over the connection of all premises with the existing house, choose the type of structures, foundations and decide which ones Construction Materials will be used. Financial costs during construction will depend on the correct study of the design stage. It is also worth at this stage to decide on the nature of the use of this structure, namely, it will be seasonal or year-round, and also to decide what number of storeys the new structure will be.

There are several common types of outbuildings that can be classified by purpose.

Summer room (kitchen or veranda).

Such an extension is usually one-story and is used in the warm season. It is convenient for spending time together, family dinners, relaxation, etc. Of course, a light or shallow foundation is needed, preferably independent from the main building of the house.

Such a structure, as a rule, has a pitched roof (Fig. 1, 2). It is recommended to use metal or polycarbonate as roofing material. In this case, it makes no sense to do thermal insulation, because the room will not be used in winter. It is worth noting that the minimum roof slope angle is 8 °, you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.

Living room and attic, if the extension is two-story (Fig. 3, 4).

In this case, a more thorough approach will be required for the construction of the foundation, the construction of capital walls and a roof, as well as the installation of waterproofing and heat-insulating materials, the supply of all utilities.

Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the walls, roof and floor, given that the extension will be used in the cold season, and, accordingly, heating.

Before starting construction, you need to take into account the condition of the house. The conjugation of roofing and foundation structures will depend on this criterion. And it is worth considering that due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the main structure and the extension will exert on the ground, it is highly likely that over time they will move relative to each other.

Another option for an extension to the house may be a separate structure, adjacent to the main, which quite often becomes the only possible

because of old house may not withstand the reconstruction of the roof, and this will destroy the stability of the entire structure.

Also the extension may differ in the type of foundation... Usually, a separate foundation is arranged for the extension, which is connected to the base of the old house with the help of embedded fittings.

Of course, a more correct option is a common foundation, which was laid at the stage of building a house. However, this happens quite rarely, and therefore it is worth ensuring the maximum similarity of the foundations in terms of material and in depth.

The most constructive and competent solution may be a separate foundation for an extension. The most common in this regard today is the foundation on screw piles (Fig. 5, 6). After screwing into the ground, the piles are united by a single grillage by welding several metal channels or from a wooden bar. It turns out an independent and independent foundation, which will not be connected to the main house in any way, since the existing foundation can continue its downward movement, which can lead to deformation of the structure.

In this case, the minimum possible distance is observed between the two buildings, i.e. technological gap, which is filled with heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.

An extension to the house can be executed according to frame technology or from a wooden bar (Fig. 5, 6).

Frame technology the most acceptable, since it has a low weight and is the construction of a frame from a wooden bar and filling it with insulation. For example, it can be SIP-panels, representing in section a three-layer "pie" of two bearing surfaces (usually OSB), between which expanded polystyrene foam is pressed, where the thickness of the insulation can be different, so you can choose panels for any climatic region. In this case, no cladding is required. additional materials, which will reduce the cost of construction.

It will be enough to paint the panels internally with varnish. It is also worth saying that an extension from a bar to a wooden house can be of two types: three walls and a fourth load-bearing, which is already in the house, or three walls, which is the most reasonable in terms of material consumption. If planned winter accommodation, then it is worth using a material whose cross-section is at least 150 x 150 or 200 x 200mm.

Such a bar is quite heavy, but it will also last longer. After the walls have been erected, the remaining cracks must be sealed, otherwise it will be very cold in the extension. This can be done with the help of modern heaters based on basalt wool or polyurethane foam.

How to create a frame extension to a house, the reliability of the construction of the foundation, walls, floor and roof. Stages of work, advice on insulation. Extension types.

Over time, the living area gets used to it and you want to expand it, for this case you will need a frame extension to the house, which will be an excellent solution. So that all the pitfalls do not bring problems, it is described in detail below what the extension is intended for. How to choose the right base, features of creating a strip and columnar foundation. What to choose wood or concrete for the floor, how the walls and frame are erected. How is a reliable overlap and roofing. What is the literacy of floor and wall insulation.

What is technological feature extension, what are the ways to install a frame extension to wooden floor... Stage of construction frame house do it yourself. How to create a construction project, how an additional living room, kitchen or bath is being built, features of installing a veranda.

How to choose a frame extension to a wooden house, fastening to a wooden structure, the importance of finishing. What materials and tools are used, how the site is planned, how to choose the material for the floor: concrete or wood.

The purpose of the extension

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, then the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. A step-by-step instruction on the stages of construction will help you make a useful and beautiful extension that will last for many years.

So that the extension does not later have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design.

First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

Additional room. Building an extra room is tantamount to building a small house. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the installation of utilities before starting the construction of the foundation. Places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. It is easier and cheaper to do it during the construction phase.
Veranda is an easy extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer vacations. The building is not heated, so the construction is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weight of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation, erected on a soil prone to heaving, will "lead", and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of the brickwork.

Different materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete.

It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

tape;
slab;
columnar;
pile;
pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for arranging foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of base is chosen. It is advisable to make it out of concrete in the following sequence.

With the help of twine and pegs, markings are made along which a trench will be dug.
The soil is chosen to the depth of the basement of the house. Sand is poured at the bottom, tamped. A layer of crushed stone is laid on top, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Formwork is prepared equal to the height of the future foundation. Lay the waterproofing inside along the perimeter and install welded fittings on the crushed stone layer.
A concrete solution is prepared in a ratio of 1: 3: 6 (cement, sand, crushed stone).
Pour the finished mixture into 1/3 of the formwork. After solidification, the remaining height is filled. The solution is compacted with a vibrator to remove air bubbles. Or knock with a hammer on the walls of the formwork.
The upper part is leveled. Cover with foil. While the mortar is gaining strength, the surface is periodically wetted to prevent cracking.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Ask an expert

Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is erected from brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or they combine these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the ground. The step between the posts is about 60 cm.

Sequence of work:

dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured at the bottom and carefully tamped;
a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use a level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
a concrete support is made in the same way as a strip type of foundation: the inner part of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Moisten the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the post, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect the wooden floor from getting wet;
the remaining voids are filled with backfilling: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, it is tamped every 15 cm of the layer.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on the strip type of foundation. The base on the pillars is deliberately calculated for arranging a wooden floor.

Let's consider both technologies:

Concrete. Inside the foundation, soil is selected to a depth of 35 cm. They equip a sand cushion, tamp it well. Then you can fill it with rubble, but expanded clay is used to insulate the screed. A 20 cm layer is enough. A reinforcing lattice is laid on top. With the help of the level, beacons are set up, along which they are subsequently poured cement screed... Tiles or wood flooring are laid on top.
The wooden floor is equipped with floor beams, which are laid on the base over the waterproofing. The beam with the foundation is connected with through fasteners, anchors or self-tapping screws. In the corners, they are connected with a straight lock and additionally fixed with corners. Next, the logs are mounted, the insulation is laid and the floor covering is laid.

Erection of the frame and walls

Step-by-step instruction:

On the lower beams of the harness, every 50 cm, make a cut for the uprights.
Mount the racks by fixing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
Assemble the top harness.
The veranda is mated with the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
Fix all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will stiffen the structure.
After the roof has been erected and insulated, insert the windows and doors.

Overlap and roof

The pitched roof type is compatible with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. We will consider it.

The rafters are installed with one end under the slope of the roof of the house, and with the other they are supported on the wall of the veranda. Fixed with metal corners. The main thing is to choose the exact angle of inclination.
The rafter legs should protrude at least 30 cm beyond the wall boundary. Such a roof overhang will protect the veranda walls from precipitation.
The issue of roofing is decided in advance. Usually the material that covers the house is chosen. Under soft roof solid material is laid on the rafters: plywood, OSB sheets or frequent crate. Slate or metal tiles are laid on the rafters if the joists are installed with a small step.
The structure is covered with waterproofing, which is selected individually for the coating material.
Roofing starts from the bottom of the rafter.
For insulation, mineral wool is used, which is laid between the rafters. Sew up the ceiling with boards or panels and decorate.

Insulation of walls and floors

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for the walls. The mats are easy and quick to fit between the frame bars, as you can see in the photo. When laying the insulation in several layers, the mats are displaced relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the joint seams.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Insulation on both sides is covered with steam and wind insulation material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and sheathed with finishing material on top.

Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the house.

Wall pie towards outside wall looks like that:

inner lining;
vapor barrier;
insulation material;
wind insulation;
external cladding.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, a dry screed can be applied, a concrete screed can be made, and water or electric heating can be installed.

DIYers often overlook the need to comply with safety requirements. Use personal protective equipment and a well-oiled reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories of the construction of the extension.

Most projects of individual houses provide only a residential part without additional outbuildings. Over time, residents, in the presence of free space near the house, often need to expand the construct with their own hands or with the involvement of qualified specialists. This can be due to a variety of reasons, for example, an increase in the number of residents living, the purchase of a car, which requires a garage, and other circumstances. An annex is an auxiliary part of a building that adjoins its main walls from one or more sides.

Varieties of attached buildings

The structure can be:

Open, in the form of a canopy adjacent to the main wall, a summer veranda, a porch or a terrace.
Closed:
- living room with panoramic windows;
- several additional living rooms;
- kitchen with barbecue and dining room;
- a separate recreation area, a children's play complex or a sports gym;
- insulated garage;
- workshop with pantries;
- sanitary unit with a pool or bath;
- Russian baths or saunas, performed mainly from wooden logs or beams as an extension to wooden houses;
- greenhouses for year-round cultivation of vegetables, a greenhouse or winter garden;
- for placing boiler equipment for heating.
Superstructure in the form of an attic, provided that the bearing capacity of the existing foundation allows such an increase in load.

Depending on the purpose, a heated, warm extension or no heating is provided.

Necessary approvals

A project for an extension to a private house can be ordered from specialized design organizations or developed independently. To change the structure of the building, it is imperative to obtain a building permit from the local administrative authorities, which is necessary, as well as for the construction of the main house. The project must be coordinated with the bodies of a dignity. and fire supervision, communal department. If the distances from the border with neighboring areas, regulated by building codes, are not observed, a written agreement from the neighbors is required, preferably notarized. The illegality of the construction of the extension is also recognized in the absence of the written consent of all co-owners of the building to carry out the work.

It should be borne in mind that a work permit is issued only with the existing registration of rights to own a land plot and a house in Rosreestr, taking into account the state cadastre. In the absence of the necessary approvals, the building may be declared illegal and subject to demolition. It is not necessary to obtain a permit to build a simple awning or porch.

Structures and materials for the construction of the superstructure of buildings

The added part should harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the house. A two-story extension to a one-story building will look ridiculous, which will also significantly complicate construction. It is recommended to use for the construction of walls the same materials from which the main structure was built. For an extension to a wooden house, use a tree, and brick brick... You can use foam or aerated concrete blocks, and for a harmonious combination with the structure of the house, revet it under a tree or brick. A high or with a turning porch, as well as open verandas and terraces, are necessarily framed by a railings.

It is advisable to build the foundation of a major extension to the old house of the same type as the existing one under the main building. Of course, there is no need for a strong foundation to build a simple canopy, porch or open veranda. In most cases, a columnar foundation with a shallow depth of laying or screw piles is sufficient.

For capital buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mostly prefabricated and monolithic tapes or monolithic slab. When using pillars and screw piles, it is imperative that the grillage is strapped, and to protect the space under the floor, it is taken from the cladding with basement siding with basalt mineral wool insulation or other similar heaters. At the top of the foundation, horizontal waterproofing is required from roll-up waterproofing agents (glass insulating, waterproofing, rubemast or roofing material).

A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed of wooden blocks filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and cladding with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be carried out with window openings. Doorway more convenient internal, which allows passage to the attached part without leaving the street. But the device of an entrance directly from the street is also permissible.

The roof is most often arranged with a pitched roof. It is important to ensure that snow cannot accumulate in the abutment area, therefore the roof is made with an angle of inclination ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets of monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.

The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wooden, faced with porcelain stoneware or tiles... Warm floors are often arranged.

It is recommended to build garage walls from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) with overlapping reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated board. It is imperative to provide a number of ventilation holes.

How to attach an extension to a house

The connection of an existing building with an extension is one of the most critical moments of construction. Failure to comply with construction technologies in the abutments will inevitably form cracks with opening to large cracks. This is caused by the difference in the existing loads and the complete absence or slowdown of the settlement of the foundation of the old house.

The attachment of the attached part is carried out in the following two variants:

With an expansion joint without direct contact between foundations, walls and roofs. Recommended for problematic soils (peaty or clayey). A gap is provided between the structures, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproof materials. It is permissible to lay a board treated with several layers of bituminous mastic. The resulting seam is closed with decorative inserts. It is imperative to eliminate the possibility of the formation of "snow bags" on the roof at the junctions.
Inclusion of all constructs in joint work... The new foundation is being built at the same depth as the existing one. It is used for foundations made of soils that are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleaned of soil, a layer of waterproofing and a notch is made using a perforator. Reinforcing bars are tightly driven into the drilled holes and the holes are sealed. The resulting embeds are welded to the reinforcement cage of the annex foundation, and concreting is performed with careful compaction of the mixture using a deep vibrator. Brick walls connect in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are pulled together with steel bolts or studs with double-sided threads, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To mate the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and joint fastening of the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to erect a common rafter system or replace with longer elements.

The second option is more complex, laborious and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joint of the connections will not disperse over time.

Depending on the design, materials of the existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and wall thickness are selected, rafter system and roofing materials for a new building.

Before making a decision on how to build an extension, it is necessary to foresee all possible nuances of future construction and to ensure that one is secured against possible administrative sanctions.

Advantages of an extension over a detached building

Reducing the volume of work on the supply of engineering communications (electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
Less material consumption and construction cost, since at least one existing wall is used.
Rational use of the territory without cluttering up with additional buildings.
Additional insulation that prevents cold air from entering directly into the house with a decrease in heat losses.

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