Various types of siding. DIY siding installation: instructions for dummies

Do you want your home to look new without a big investment? Then an excellent and, most importantly, modern option is siding facade decoration. It is used to decorate a wide variety of buildings: the facade of a bathhouse, garage, house and others. It prevents the sun's rays from directly hitting the walls, covers from rain, protects the house from temperature extremes, and is also an excellent protection from the wind. What's more, it is easy to operate. It is easy to put in order by washing and wiping with a damp cloth. These are just some of the benefits of choosing wall siding. Now let's look at how to do the installation of siding with our own hands, find out what tool you need for this, and how to prepare for the work.

Tools and equipment

Before starting preparatory work, you should make sure that all tools are present. To install siding you will need:

• scissors for tin,
• Bulgarian,
• sharp knife
• puncher,
• punch,
• jigsaw,
• stapler,
• level,
• hammer,
• roulette,
• protective glasses.

In addition to the tool, you should purchase the entire construction material... In addition to the siding itself and its components, you need to stock up on nails, screws, staples, etc. Now that you have everything at hand, you can start preparatory work.

Preparatory work

It should be noted that you cannot install the siding yourself. Therefore, take care of a reliable partner. Together, using a water level (or its laser variation), you can mark the facade. An accurate mark is made at each corner of the building.

Note! It is imperative that the last mark coincides with the first mark. If the marks do not match, then the measurements are inaccurate. Accordingly, the procedure must be repeated. Ignoring this will result in uneven walls.

After that, you need to find the highest mark focusing on the base. Further, at each corner from the base, a mark is placed, which will show the level of the first strip.

We make a crate for siding

One of the important stages of work is the manufacture of the lathing. To do this, you can use wooden blocks.

Note! If the siding will be laid horizontally, then the lathing should only be installed vertically, and vice versa.

For the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to prepare a sufficient number of bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm and 25 × 80 mm. When buying, make sure that they are perfectly flat, otherwise, after installing the siding, the wall will repeat the shape of the "sea wave". When installing the lathing, it is necessary to follow the distance between the bars, which should be 30-40 cm. If you want to pre-insulate the facade, then the lathing is first made along the width of the insulation. The frame for the insulation will be made perpendicular to the crate for siding. It is also necessary to upholster the windows with wooden beams. After installing the insulation, the surface must be covered with a waterproofing film using a stapler. This film must be laid with an overlap of ten centimeters wide.

When everything is ready, you can start making the frame directly for siding. For this, you can also use a metal profile. This has its advantages. For example, wood blocks need to be treated with an antiseptic against corrosion. Moreover, under the influence of weather conditions, the bars can deform or dry out. Because of this, the siding may not hold well. As for the metal profile, this does not threaten him.

Siding installation. Technology

When installing siding, one must comply with one condition. It consists in ensuring that the siding moves under the influence of temperature changes. For this purpose, nails should be driven into the holes provided in the center. It is also important to carefully hammer in the nails. Do not use excessive force to drive them in.

Note! Do not nail the head of the nail against the sheathing panel. It is recommended to leave a gap of 1.5 mm. This also applies to self-tapping screws, if you will fasten the siding with them.

Under no circumstances should the panel be stretched. Otherwise, the subsequent panel may become uneven, and this will lead to curvature. The distance between the nails can be up to 400 mm.

Sequence of installation work

Window opening finishing

The first step is the facing of the window opening. To this end, you should take a window strip and cut it to size.

The lane that is mounted to the inner perimeter of the slope is installed towards the terminating lane. To begin with, the plank is installed on the lower slope, then on the side and only lastly on the upper slope.

Installation of basement siding

Before starting the installation of the siding on the facade, first decide whether it will be installed on the plinth. If so, then this work needs to be done first. For this, a starting bar is set. It is imperative to set it exactly horizontally. To precisely fit the first panel to the corner, its edge is trimmed. Next, the next panel is installed. When it comes to the last panel, it needs to be trimmed so that there is a small gap between the panel and the corner.

Installing siding on the wall

The first step is to beat off the line of the basement ebb with the help of a level. It is on top of it that the starting bar will be installed. Next, the H-profile is mounted. It is necessary for a beautiful siding docking. Some people decide to do without it. However, over time, dust can clog there, in addition, moisture can accumulate there.

Accordingly, the joint will be visible. Moreover, in case of strong gusts of wind, this joint may not withstand and come off. For this reason, it is best to use an H-profile to connect the siding. Next, the assembly of the panels begins. Naturally, installation begins with the lower starter bar, onto which the next regular bar snaps into place. And so, row by row, to the very top. For the last row, the last panel needs to be exactly sized.

This method is used to install siding panels. The main advantage of the technology is that this work can be done without the help of specialists.

If you have already done this work, then you can share your opinion. You may have encountered some problems while working, tell us how you dealt with them. If you have any questions, then ask them to us.

Video

This is how the correct installation of siding is carried out:

And this typical mistakes installation:

Photo

If you want to finish the facade of your house quickly, beautifully and inexpensively, you will most likely come to the decision to use siding. These are far from those frankly plastic thin boards with an unpleasant shine. Modern siding imitates different textures of traditional finishing materials: stone, brick, wood. All surfaces look reliable enough. If a torn stone, then the color and surface are very similar. There are even color irregularities that are natural for this material in brick-like panels, cracks and chips are pressed and traced. The texture of the tree is also quite accurately conveyed. Not all materials, but many. It is produced today using at least five different materials and many technologies. Another important advantage of this material is that do-it-yourself siding installation is not a super-difficult task, available to anyone who can hold a hammer.

Types of siding for house cladding

Let's start with the fact that it is produced from different materials: based on polymers, wood, metal and their combinations. Here are the main types that are used for cladding houses:

• Polymer:
  • vinyl;
  • acrylic;
• Metal siding:
  • aluminum;
  • galvanized iron;
• Fiber cement;
• WPC - wood-polymer composite.

Polymeric

The first of the polymeric ones we have appeared is vinyl siding - made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Today it also exists and has the lowest prices, but outwardly it already differs significantly from the first samples. It has become much more attractive, there is not only smooth - with imitation of the surface of wood - it is also called "log siding". This is if it is semicircular in cross section. There is one that repeats the profile of the bar. So you can sheathe the house and siding under the timber. Some of the profiles and colors can be seen in the photo gallery.

This house is finished with log siding (acrylic or vinyl - unknown) This is vinyl siding under a bar - different colors From a distance it looks like a log, close, of course, not very PVC siding - imitation of a log This is a vinyl siding, which is called "herringbone" for its characteristic profile. Its surface can imitate wood, and almost any color. It's just some hard to find It's just a smooth color - a small part of the palette

The second polymer siding is acrylic. It costs about 50% more than vinyl, but it's worth it: it has best performance, many outwardly like it more. What are its advantages? It is more plastic, due to which it can withstand heavy loads, it cracks less in the cold (vinyl at sub-zero temperatures becomes brittle). The operating temperature range of acrylic is from -50 ° C to + 50 ° C, acrylic can be heated to + 85 ° C without loss of performance. And one more thing: acrylic fade less, although it all depends on the quality of the pigment. All these features are reflected in the warranty period: manufacturers for imported vinyl siding give a guarantee of 25 years (for ours 5-7), for acrylic - 50 years (for ours about 10). Externally, acrylic hardly differs from vinyl, so there is no point in publishing similar drawings.

This was all about traditional siding, which is produced in the form of long strips (the thickness of the polymer wall, by the way, is from 0.8 to 1.2 mm). But there is also a basement option, which looks like sheets with uneven edges (for better joining). It is also called facade panels... It very faithfully imitates masonry or brickwork, as well as some types of wood coverings - wood chips, for example. See the photo gallery for some samples of basement siding.

Simple geometry of the house emphasizes the "natural" finish. Cladding with basement siding of the whole house - quick way exterior decoration Clinker tiles with jointing - if you want, you can do this too Shades - from light, almost white, to dark

This type of siding is more expensive, but stronger - the wall thickness is 2-3 mm, depending on the manufacturer. Some reinforce the slabs to give more rigidity: to make the finish more durable. The guarantee is given from 25 to 50 years, the temperature range depends on the material, because these facade slabs are also made of vinyl or acrylic. In any case, more titanium is added to them, which makes it more plastic, and therefore does not break even in cold weather. It is titanium that largely influences the price: the more it is, the more durable the polymer becomes.

When finishing, it is important to remember that polymers have different sizes at different temperatures. Therefore, when installing the sadding, it is imperative to leave gaps that compensate for these changes.

You can read about the installation of basement siding in the article "".

Metal siding

This type of finishing material is made from thin metal - galvanized steel or thin aluminum. Aluminum is more durable, but also much more expensive. In the production of metal siding, a whole "pie" of protective and finishing layers, the main of which is zinc, is rolled onto a sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm to protect it from rust. The latter is paint or polymer coating. Polymer coated metal sidedangs are more expensive, but they also have a longer service life and fade less.

It is clear that metal is more durable than plastic, but only if the protective coating is not broken. Therefore, when cutting siding on a metal basis, you cannot use a grinder: the cutting site heats up very much, burns out protective films... Subsequently, this is where corrosion begins. For the same reason, during installation, it is attached to galvanized self-tapping screws: they are guaranteed not to scratch the coating.

Of the features - metal siding has a significant weight, therefore, when calculating the foundation, it must be taken into account. If you wanted to sheathe an old house with metal siding, this is possible only if the foundation has a margin of safety. If not, you will have to strengthen it. Yet important nuance: since the metal conducts heat well, the house needs to be well insulated (install only with insulation).

Fiber cement siding

This finishing material is made from a mixture of sand and cement, to which fiberglass is added for reinforcement. Siding or slabs are formed from this composition. The technology was invented in Japan, which is why this siding is also called "Japanese".

The advantages of this material include its incombustibility or low flammability, if the front side is painted. This material does not react to temperature changes, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation (the material itself, not the coating), does not change its properties when frozen. But since it consists of cement, it absorbs water, and also has a solid weight. Therefore, if you are going to sheathe the house from the outside with fiber cement siding, its weight must also be taken into account when calculating the foundation. When designing a wall cake, care must be taken to ensure that the facade is ventilated: there must be an air gap between the cladding and the wall of the house.

This house is sheathed with fiber cement panels Brickwork- one of my favorite patterns: laying the siding is much faster and the result is excellent

Another feature of this material is that the colors that you see in the photo above are the result of staining. It is applied after the boards have been formed. The paint penetrates quite deeply and the manufacturers guarantee the paint durability for 10 years. But then it will have to be updated: take a brush or roller and paint.

WPC siding - wood-polymer composite

Wood-like siding or WPC is made from wood flour mixed with polymer. Not only does it look like wood, it also smells like wood. The tactile sensations are very similar. Unlike fiber cement, WPC is colored to the full depth: the pigment is added from the mass before the start of molding. There is thermal expansion - about 3 mm per meter, the color of the racks, the strength is high - decking is made of the same material - a decking board, so people trample on it for years. She, by the way, can also sheathe a house.

Among the disadvantages of this material: a rather high price - from 850 to 2000 rubles per square meter, not a very large palette of colors, the absence of additional elements and proven installation technology. The material is new, all the flaws from this. But they are forgotten when the material is seen live: it looks very attractive and is very similar to wood. The photo gallery contains photos from dachas and houses under construction, not advertising ones. So you can appreciate the real look.

Another angle. It can be seen how they are attached - to the crate with a perforated tape with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm. As you can see, the walls of the WPC siding are thick. But the board is nailed on the wrong side - the owner liked the back one more. And on the front - three narrow boards "under the lining" are formed

Since the material is new, there are few reviews, but those that are there are positive. For example, this: "Two years have passed, the color holds, no cracks, no deformations." Region - Moscow and Samara.

How to choose siding for house cladding

After you have decided on the type of siding with which you will sheathe the house, you must not make a mistake with the manufacturer. You will need to carefully inspect the products and check the following points:

• Color uniformity. If the color is smooth, there should be no changes or extraneous inclusions on the back or on the front.
• Uniformity of wall thickness. Examine several boards in profile. The thickness of the partitions must be the same. Sagging or pits, even on inside, Is a sign of poor quality.
• Examine the hardware holes. They should have smooth edges, without scoring.
• Smooth longitudinal edges of the locks, no deformation in any plane.

If everything is ok, you can buy.

DIY installation instructions

Despite the fact that siding is made from different materials, the principle of its installation is the same: on a flat surface. In some cases, it can be a flat wall, but mostly on a crate.

Procedure

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with checking the condition of the walls. If the house is new, no special action is required. If it is old, remove everything that can subsequently collapse: poorly adhered tiles, pieces of plaster. If there is an old finish that can be easily removed, it is advisable to dismantle it. Decorative elements are also removed - lamps, cladding of windows and doors, etc., the overhangs of the roof are disassembled. They will then be installed in place after finishing work is over.

After that, the installation of siding is carried out independently in the following sequence:

Actually, all the siding of the house is complete. Some points require clarification. About them - below with photos and videos, explanations and instructions.

Lathing

For any type, you can use wooden blocks 50 * 50 mm or a galvanized profile for outdoor use. For heavier materials such as fiber cement or WPC, façade fasteners can be used. It is, of course, expensive, but it is convenient to work with it.

If the lathing for siding is made of wood, the bars must be treated with bioprotective impregnations: so that fungi and mold do not multiply. A similar composition is used to treat the walls of a wooden or frame house before finishing.

The step of the lathing is indicated by the manufacturer, but often it is also determined by the geometry of the house: if there are many broken lines, the lathing will have to be done more often. It must be installed:

According to the installation method, vinyl, acrylic and metal siding can be horizontal and vertical. Depending on the direction of laying the finishing board, the crate is stuffed in the perpendicular direction: if the boards are nailed vertically, the crate is nailed horizontally and vice versa.

As already mentioned, the standard for a wooden lathing for siding is a beam of 50 * 50 mm. But if installation with insulation is planned, the thickness of the bar should be greater: it depends on the required thickness of the insulation. In this case, the block should be 2-3 cm wider than the insulation. This is a ventilation gap that will help maintain normal humidity in the house and in all layers of decoration.

The lathing made of wood for siding does not raise any questions: almost everyone knows how to work with a tree, but not everyone understands how to make a lathing from profiles. Clarifications and tips on how to fix the profile of the batten to the wall - in the video.

Do-it-yourself installation of siding with insulation

Traditional insulation is used for siding: polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene (extruded or not), mineral wool. For wooden houses mineral wool is most often used: at a low cost, it has good characteristics and does not prevent the removal of excess moisture from the house, and this is important if you are going to sheathe wooden house... When cladding with siding brick house or houses made of foam blocks, building blocks, you can also use polystyrene: the walls are not very "breathable" and the same insulation paired with them will work fine.

It is undesirable to cover a wooden house with siding without crate. Even if the walls are flat. Condensation will form on the inner surface of the sheathing: steam passes through the wooden wall, settles on a cooler surface. Humidity in this interval will be high: there is no ventilation gap, evaporation is poor. Conditions are created for the rapid destruction of wood.

Therefore, in any case, on wooden surface the crate is stuffed. If the sheathing is with insulation, it is installed and fixed between its strips. They are laid very tightly, with effort, so that there are no cracks near the battens - cold bridges. If there is more than one layer, it is laid so that the seams of the lower row are closed by the upper one, it is possible - in different directions (see the figure).

Above, a windproof vapor-permeable membrane. Pay attention to this material: how long your insulation will "live" depends on it. Not a plastic film, but a membrane that does not lock water vapor inside (water vapor can escape from the insulation), while protecting it from moisture from outside (precipitation and condensate cannot get inside). On top of it there is a counter-grill, which will create a veneered gap. Boards or panels are already attached to the counter-crate.

In this case, as you understood, the counter-lattice should be located perpendicular to the direction of laying the siding. Therefore, the first is stuffed in the same direction as the sading.

How siding is attached

Major problems with exterior decoration siding houses are associated with a violation of installation technology. Therefore, it is necessary to treat this very carefully and strictly follow the recommendations. Manufacturers may have a different set of additional elements - profiles for joining strips and decorating openings - but the installation is the same:

There are requirements for the type and size of fasteners:

• The use of self-tapping screws or nails is allowed.
• The head of the fastener must be at least 8 mm in size (4 mm in diameter). For self-tapping screws, it should be round, not flat.
• Rod thickness - 3 mm.

When installing metal bonding, it is recommended to use galvanized fasteners: it will not damage the zinc protective coating. For other types of self-tapping screws, it is better to use white, not black: they can withstand heavy loads (in black, when twisting, the cap often breaks).

This is true for this material of any kind: it is necessary to properly fix both vinyl, acrylic, and metal. See the video for what violations during installation lead to.

Installation instructions video

The technology for cladding with vinyl or acrylic siding is described in detail in this video. It is about how and in what order to install the profiles, how to mount and join the outer and inner corners. The process of siding window cladding is described in detail.

Installation of facade siding is not much different. Is it only that the crate is required "in a cage." Otherwise, everything is the same: we install the screws in the center of the mounting holes, do not tighten them.

There are small differences in the docking of elements. On the back side of the panels there are stops that prevent the panel from moving further. When installing siding under a stone or brick, you must not miss this moment: the stops can break with strong pressure. A good story is told about the installation features in the advertising and training video of the German manufacturer Docke (Dock or Deck).

For how a large wooden house was sheathed with vinyl siding under a stone, see the next video. This is no longer an advertising video, but an experience: the siding installation with your own hands was done for the first time. What happened and what sensations - look.

Siding - large group facade finishing materials, the name of which comes from a wooden board fixed on the wall in a certain way. The principle of house cladding with siding was borrowed from the roof, where the upper element hangs over the lower one. Thanks to this, the main materials were protected from weathering, burning out in the sun, and most importantly - from getting wet. Rainwater ran down the panels without getting inside the wall. Now siding is used in curtain walls and for house insulation.

This is how a house sheathed with classic siding looks like in the USA - in its historical homeland

Siding types

There are several types of materials that fall into this category:

Classic wooden plank for a facade that is overlapped on top of each other. Now this method of cladding is rarely used, and more often they use imitation in the form of a profiled wooden lining to separate the facade - "American".

Modern wood siding... The panels are not solid wood, but pressed wood fibers held together by binding resins. The structure resembles dense fiberboard, the protective coating is several layers of paint.

Wood-polymer composites. Produced by companies that specialize in the production of WPC decking. The composition is clear from the name, the panel is made profiled with a thorn-groove connection or "lock". Has the largest thickness among modern options siding - over 10 mm, taking into account internal stiffeners. One of the most durable options, but more expensive than some types of natural wood siding.

One of the samples of the profile of modern wood-polymer siding

Cement siding for house cladding. A composite material, but not polymers, but cement act as a binder. The filler in this case is cellulose fibers, which reinforce the panel and ensure its fracture strength. Also has a large thickness - 8 mm.

You can sheathe the house with metal siding. They produce aluminum and steel. In the second case, it is a galvanized cold-rolled profiled sheet with a decorative polymer coating or painting. The thickness varies between 0.5-2 mm.

Usually siding is "flat", but the metal profile can mimic a log

Vinyl siding for house cladding. The most popular "economy class" material for facade decoration. It is produced in two variants of use - for a base / plinth or for a facade.

Basement siding is often made under brick or stone

Note. Plinth panels are produced more "thick". They are often used to sheathe the facade when they want to make the cladding more resistant to mechanical damage or create the illusion of stone cladding.

Features of choice and cost of siding

If we talk about mass demand, then many seek to sheathe a house with vinyl siding. It has an excellent combination of advantages: low price and good decorative properties, simple installation and surface maintenance, low weight and high resistance to climatic factors.

In second place is solid wood siding, if in this category we count both the board and the "American" lining in all its modifications. Of course, thanks to the simple installation technology, profiled panels are more often used. This is a traditional type of siding for wooden house or a cottage in an ecologically clean area.

This is what the profile of an "American" looks like.

If you want to get an almost reliable imitation of wood paneling with a long service life, minimal cost for maintenance and repair, then the best choice there will be composite panels. Especially if there is a WPC terrace next to the house. They perfectly tolerate temperature extremes, high humidity, and are resistant to adverse factors even in a large city or close to the road.

House cladding with metal siding is not common. The aluminum profile does not withstand mechanical stress, which is inevitable for a low-rise building. Steel panels are durable, but their price is higher than that of vinyl panels, and decorative possibilities the same. Durability is determined by the thickness of the sheet and the properties of the protective and decorative coating. The price depends on the combination of these factors.

Cement siding is used if the fire resistance of the finish is in the first place. And this is perhaps the only advantage of the material. Heavy, rather fragile during transportation (despite the reinforcement) and difficult to install - it loses in popularity to other types.

Cement siding can replicate the texture of wood, but is not easy to install.

Price square meter depends not only on the material. The price is more influenced by many factors. And one of them is the manufacturer and the country. Even vinyl siding has a range of prices from 150 rubles. up to 600 rubles for 1 m2.

WITH wood paneling even more difficult - for example, pine and larch differ in price several times, and there are also more expensive types of wood. Plus factory processing, which improves resistance to high humidity, but also significantly increases the cost of the board. For example, domestic larch costs from 300 rubles. per 1 m2, heat treatment of wood from a domestic manufacturer raises the cost by 2-3 times, and imported heat-treated board costs 4-5 times more than ordinary wooden siding.

Clearly about the choice of siding in the video:

How to calculate the quantity

There are two simple methods calculation: by area and by the number of panels.

First method:

Calculate the area of ​​the sheathed planes. For the convenience of the calculation, a surface with a complex geometry is "divided" into simple shapes.

The area of ​​the window and doorways.

Multiply the result by the trimming factor. For simple planes, it is taken equal to 1.07-1.1, for complex - 1.15.

Divide into useful (not total!) Area of ​​one panel.

Round the result to an integer, and you get the number of siding panels to install with a margin.

Visually calculations on the video:

The second method is convenient only for " simple figures»Façade or plinth planes. In this case, each next plane is calculated with a correction for the possible use of scraps from the previous one. The calculation method for a "blank" wall is as follows:

Measure the height of the wall, divide it by the useful height of the panel. Round to the nearest whole number.

The length of the wall is measured, divided by the length of the panel. If after the decimal point it turns out 5 or more round up, less than 5 - down.

The results obtained are multiplied.

When rounded up, this will be required amount siding panels. If the second figure was rounded down, then they calculate how much siding will need to be purchased in order to increase each strip in length.

When determining the number of stripes for walls with openings, the planes between the corners and the boundaries of the openings are calculated separately from the "blind" areas.

The calculation of additional profiles is carried out for each type individually, depending on the size of the areas where they are used.

The most common types of additional profiles

Preparatory stage

Facing with lathing does not require leveling the surface to a "perfect" condition. But this does not mean that the walls do not need to be prepared for work. Moreover, when siding is only part of the general measures for the installation of a curtain wall with insulation.

Therefore, it is necessary to clean the surface of old finishing materials, remove the hinged elements engineering communications, remove signs and lamps, dismantle ebbs and visors. The facade must be completely free.

If the facade is plastered, then it must be cleaned from crumbling areas, primed and, if necessary, leveled with mortar.

Old plaster is sometimes difficult to clean

Brick walls must be checked for cracks, their nature must be determined, the causes must be eliminated and the repair compound must be repaired.

The walls of a house that was built a long time ago should be checked for fungus and mosses. This is especially true for the basement, the first floor and the area of ​​the canopies on the north side or in the "solid" shade.

Whether it is possible to carry out cladding in winter depends on the composition of work on the preparation of surfaces for cladding. Sheathing of a wooden house with metal siding or vinyl and WPC can be carried out in winter, if the house is new. If it is required to carry out "wet" renovation works with solutions and liquid formulations - it is impossible.

And of course, it is impossible to mount cement siding for painting and wood siding in winter without factory protective treatment with special compounds.

Lathing materials and installation tools

The lathing can be made of timber or metal profiles.

The timber is easier to fit, it is easier to attach siding to it, it does not serve as a cold bridge between the cladding and the wall, does not change geometry when temperature changes. But the tree does not tolerate high humidity. Therefore, the timber must be seasoned (dry) and treated with an antiseptic.

Installation of siding on a wooden crate can be seen:

WITH metal profile it is more difficult to work, it has high strength and durability (if it is galvanized). The only operational drawback is high thermal conductivity. Therefore, the supporting brackets must be mounted to the wall through thermal insulation gaskets.

For the installation of lathing and siding you need:

a set of tools for marking and level control;

hacksaw for metal or wood (depends on the material of the siding and lathing);

metal scissors for trimming panels (for metal siding);

punch or drill (depending on the material of the walls and base);

hammer, pliers, screwdrivers or screwdriver with attachments for the hardware head;

• twine, chalk for marking;

  stepladder, ladder, woods.

Visually about the installation metal frame for siding on video:

General principles of vinyl or metal siding

To have an idea of ​​how to properly sheathe a house with siding, it is enough to know general principles installation:

The cladding takes place according to the principle of filling the contour with panels from additional profiles.

The crate is mounted with a vertical girder layout pitch of 250-300 mm.

They make markings for the starting bar, on the correct installation of which the quality of the plating largely depends.

First, beat off the line of the low tide attachment. If the entire facade is sheathed along the perimeter, then it should converge "to a point".

The line of attachment of the starter bar is above the low tide plus a gap to compensate for thermal expansion.

Installation to the crate of the ebb, the starting plate and all the details of the cladding takes place according to the general rules:

fasteners should be located strictly vertically relative to the crate;

the head of the fastener must be in the middle of the perforated hole (except for the upper fastening of the corner profiles);

screws are twisted or nails are not driven in completely, but a gap of about 1 mm is left between the head and the surface of the part.

Installation of the first, load-bearing siding strip

After the starting strip, the corner profiles are attached by hanging them vertically at the top attachment point. Near-window strips or J profile are mounted around the openings. Finish the "framing" of the contour with a finishing strip or J profile.

Installation of the first panel begins with fixing the starting plate in the lock. Before fixing to the lathing, set a temperature gap between the end of the siding and the corner profile. Its value depends on the time of year when the work is carried out and the length of the panel. In winter - about 12 mm by 4 m in length, in summer - half as much.

The siding is extended in length either with an overlap of 20-25 mm (by cutting the perforation of the bottom panel), or through a connecting profile with an internal gap along each end as in the corner profile.

Every 5-6 rows control the level.

Installation example of metal siding

Features of cladding a wooden house

When sheathing a wooden house with siding, it is necessary to take into account the features of the materials:

facade decoration, like internal work, must be started after the house has shrunk;

for the lathing, it is advisable to use a wooden beam (seasoned and treated with an antiseptic);

it is obligatory to treat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic, since after the installation of the cladding it is impossible to control the condition of the wood and timely prevent the places affected by the fungus;

for additional protection, a waterproofing membrane can be installed;

even if the walls are flat, and the installation of siding is carried out without insulation, the panels cannot be fixed to the wall - for correct operation the tree needs a gap that the lathing creates.

Sheathing of a wooden house

The ease of installation of siding does not exclude care and accuracy during work. An error in the installation of the starting profile, fasteners that are "overtightened" or incorrectly installed in the hole, and non-observance of the recommendations for the size of the thermal gap - all this can lead to serious consequences for the cladding, which will not be so easy to eliminate.

One should not once again talk about the popularity of such material for facade decoration as siding. Almost everyone can lay this material with their own hands, which is one of the main advantages along with its aesthetics, practicality and durability. The comparatively low price also makes it attractive.

In this article, we will share the secrets correct installation and we will describe in detail the technology of finishing the facade with siding.

Preparation for the installation of siding

Required set of tools

Before laying the siding, you will need to prepare tools for cutting the material, marking, attaching it to the facade, etc.

So, to cut siding and battens you will need:

• Grinder or circular saw.
• Ordinary hacksaw and hacksaw for metal.
• Cutting knife and scissors for metal.

To mark the surface of the facade, as well as materials for cutting, you will need:

• Long level.
• Plumb line.
• Coated cord.
• Water level.
• Roulette.
• Corner.
• Pencil.

To carry out the installation, you must prepare:

• A hammer or screwdriver / screwdriver, depending on the type of fastener used.
• Punch for making mounting holes.
• Notch punch for snapping in panels.

Preparing the facade for laying siding

The surfaces of the building facade prepared for cladding should be carefully examined for such defects as peeling, falling off or poorly fixed facade elements, etc. The identified defects must be eliminated.

Next, a wind-vapor barrier film is attached to the prepared surface, after which the crate is mounted. The technology of laying siding can imply the installation of lathing from both wooden beams and aluminum profiles. In this case, the second option will be more preferable.

The lathing is laid vertically or horizontally, depending on the installation method of the cladding panels. If the external siding will be laid horizontally, then the lathing should be vertical, and vice versa.

If there is a need to insulate the building, heat-insulating material is placed in the space between the battens of the crate - foam or slabs mineral wool... The insulation is glued to the facade in combination with the installation of mushroom dowels.

Siding installation

Now let's figure out how to properly lay siding. The process is carried out in several stages, among which a significant part is occupied not only by the installation of panels, but also by the laying of additional elements. So, first things first.

Installation of siding accessories

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with the installation of the ebb and the starting bar (profile):

1. The ebb begins to be mounted from the corner of the house, where a special corner element is installed.
2. The ebb strips are mounted overlapping each other by about 25 mm.
3. Above the ebb nail strip, a starting profile is attached 30-40 mm higher. For horizontally mounted siding, it is installed with a lock from the wall.

The instructions for laying siding also provide the following rules for installing the remaining additional elements:

• The inner and outer corner profiles are mounted at the joints of the walls in such a way that their upper end is below the soffit or cornice by 1-3 mm. In this case, the lower end should be 4-6 mm below the starting profile.
• For framing window and door openings, a starting profile and a platband are used.... First, a starting profile is attached around the perimeter of the framed element. The length of the starting strips for framing should be equal to the length / width of the element, respectively, plus double the width of the casing.

Advice!
When installing in the bends of the upper casing, it is recommended to make cuts 20 mm long on both sides.
The resulting tabs need to be bent down, so that the accumulated moisture will be drained from the upper casing for the side ones.

• The near-window profile is laid by analogy with the platband... The only difference is the need to trim the profile and install the finishing strip around the perimeter of the window.
• The platband with a slope is attached in the same way as in previous cases., but the installation sequence is as follows: finishing profile - slope - platband.
• The H-bar (profile) is installed in the same way as the corner profile... It serves for joining panels with a lack of their length to cover the entire surface.
• Molding and finishing profile finish the installation of siding panels... For this, hooks must be provided at the top of the panel.

Siding installation rules

Finally, let's take a look at how to properly lay the siding. Before laying the siding, if possible, you should mount all the additional elements and cut the panels to the required length at the installation site.

The rules for laying siding are as follows:

1. start from the start profile.
2. The first panel is inserted into the profile lock and snapped into it.
3. The panel should be able to slide along the lock. After making sure of this, the siding element can be attached.
4. Fasteners are made strictly in the center of the screw / nail holes.
5. All subsequent panels are mounted in the same way one after the other.
6. The end of the finishing surface will be a molding or finishing profile.
7. Before putting the vertical type siding, instead of the starting strip, an ebb and / or edging strip is attached to the basement. A molding, edging profile or J-profile is installed above it.

1. They are fixed in the same way as corner strips and H-profile.

Thus, we figured out how to properly lay the siding, as well as the components attached to it. So that you have the opportunity not only in words, but also to visually learn the rules for laying siding and additional elements, we attach the corresponding photos and videos of the installation process to the article.

Is a modern cladding material for finishing buildings with a rich assortment colors and textures.

It has several main functions:

1. Decorative since it has a flawless appearance thanks to the variety of textures and shades.
2. Protective: from the effects of various weather phenomena, the external environment.
3. Insulation: if there is thermal insulation material between the frame battens.

Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.

Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in the construction market due to its low price, durability, decorative properties and quality characteristics:

1. Frost resistant.
2. Doesn't need any special care.
3. Wear resistant and is durable.
4. Easy to install.
5. Easy to transport due to its small size and weight.
6. Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
7. Does not corrode.
8. UV resistant.

The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it in house cladding without the invitation of specialists, with your own hands.

How to fix it?

Fastening the panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to the tree, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws that are convenient to work at height using a screwdriver and a magnetic attachment. The main thing is resistance to corrosion, otherwise, over time, the view will be spoiled by rusty spots.

The order of installation of the panels is as follows:

1. Plinth plating and drainage installation... The house may have a base in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain ebb, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. An ebb is installed from the corners, with an overlap joint of the slats. Below, under the ebb, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. A strictly horizontal line is checked using the level. It is advised to do an ebb tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
2. Setting up a start profile... The starting panel at the bottom of the plinth is mandatory, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depends on it. First, mark the bottom level of the cladding in one of the corners. Then, drive in a nail 4 cm higher. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is outlined, which is drawn along the perimeter around the house with a similar markup. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the crate. The top edge of the starting profile is set along the marking line. The starting strip must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
3. At the base / plinth interface and the main facade, it is possible to install a curb, which will become the basis of the next row.
4. Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after the end of the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the joint is at the same level in all corners. The main step of the fasteners is 2-2.5 cm. Fasteners are made in the center of the holes and are not sunk to the limit.
5. Decoration of door and window openings. Special windowed J-profiles with a shelf for finishing slopes are used. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional cladding using a corner profile is possible. Under the window opening, ordinary panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required gap.
6. Installation of facade elements. Ordinary panels are attached from the starting strip. Do not forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. It is recommended to control every third row with a level for horizontalness.
7. Roof overhangs and pediment. For perforated finish. This allows the roof to be ventilated. Soffits are fastened every 30 cm. In the design of the pediment, a J-profile or corner is used.
8. Docking siding. The service life and the appearance of the building depend on the correct joining. Consider:
   • General starting rule: dock the horizontal arrangement of the siding from the bottom up, and the vertical one - from the corner or centerline of the wall.
   • With temperature drops, the deformation occurs not in width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, backlash at the joints is required.
   • Do not press on the profile during installation, do not stretch, do not allow rigid docking.
   • The profile is fixed from the middle of the bar to the edges with a horizontal arrangement, from top to bottom - with vertical fasteners.

Despite the general rules and order of work, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:

1. Vinyl siding the largest thermal expansion: one panel, measuring 3 m, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
2. When cutting metal siding strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge collapses, and over time, rust will appear there.
3. On cold days, vinyl panels must not be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
4. Fastening you need to do it on a metal crate, since wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.

Sheathing accessories and surface preparation

The main components include:

1. Start profile... In order to stiffen the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the casing so that it remains hidden. The start panel can be cut, leaving a part with perforations and a receiving lock.
2. J-profile. It is used for the decoration of windows and doorways, closes the side edges of the panels on the facade, can be used as a finishing profile in places where corners do not match 90 0.
3. Corner profile. Designed for joining panels on both external and internal corners.
4. H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow completely covering the wall. Connection of two J-profiles is possible.
5. Finishing panels... They are used to complete the cladding of the walls of the building. Close the latest siding profiles.
6. Soffit panels. They are used for decorative finishing of cornices, fastened with a J-profile.

Additionally, you will need ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as.

Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:

1. Weed cleaning, dirt, etc.
2. Dismantling of decorative ornaments, platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
3. Wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
4. Sealant places of possible moisture penetration: cracks, cracks, pipe tie-in points, etc.

In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared crate. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly flat ones.

Installation of the lathing

Wooden lathing device

If the new wooden walls are perfectly flat, the crate is not made. But this is very rare. For stone and block surfaces, lathing is required. Its installation is needed to provide support for the siding in one plane.

The frame of the sheathing maintains free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows it to keep warm in winter and to protect it from overheating in summer.

The material for the lathing is selected depending on the type of surface:

1. On wooden walls – wooden beams.
2. On stone walls- wooden beams, PVC strips or galvanized profiles.
3. On brick and concrete walls - galvanized profile.

The procedure for making the lathing is as follows:

1. Using a level and tape measure you need to outline straight lines along the perimeter of the wall until a closed contour is obtained.
2. Fitting against the wall starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or Styrofoam can be used to seal. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
3. Guides, it is necessary to add in places of additional load on the panels, around windows and doors.

1. Do not connect vertical guides horizontal slats to maintain ventilation under the siding.
2. Dry the wooden crate well to avoid warping, treat with a flame retardant and antiseptic.
3. Use stainless nails.

At the same time, you can insulate the building with foam, glass wool or polyethylene, provided that the ventilation space is preserved. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or battens of the lathing should be greater than the insulation layer. Moisture must not accumulate behind siding panels to prevent mold or mildew.

1. Do not cut a large volume of the profile based on preliminary calculations. Errors are possible. Therefore, prepare the material better in parts, for each site separately.
2. It is impossible to drive nails through the siding panel or screw in self-tapping screws. Use only the designated holes.
3. In the panel mount, use nylon washers - will provide resistance in strong winds.

Siding is the second life of a house that has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic look.