Correctly insulate the frame house with polystyrene foam. Internal and external insulation of frame houses with polystyrene foam

Insulating a frame house with polystyrene foam is one of the best and most inexpensive options to make a house warm and cozy.

They can be insulated as Vacation home, and a seasonal house in the country.

Therefore, it is worth figuring out which material for insulating a frame house is better to acquire and by what technology it should be laid.

After reading the article, you will find the answer to the question: how to properly insulate frame house foam?

The main characteristics and properties of foam

Polyfoam is used in all areas of construction and is used for indoor and outdoor work. The material is in demand in the construction market.

Due to the high air content, the foam sheets have high thermal insulation properties.

To make foam, you need to use a fairly large amount of different raw materials, which will differ in density and strength.

The main properties of foam should be highlighted:

safety. The material is manufactured, used and disposed of without harming the health of others. Evidence of the safety of foam is the fact that it is used not only as a building material for insulation, but also as packaging for vegetables and fruits, children's toys, etc .;
good thermal insulation. Keeps warm not only in dry weather, but also in humid conditions and at low temperatures;
high level of sound insulation. Prevents the entry of desired sounds;
moisture resistance. If PSB-S sheets are placed under water, then the material will absorb only a few percent of its volume. Therefore, it is recommended to use polystyrene not only for insulation. frame houses, but also for insulation of the foundation. After all, when such a plate comes into contact with the ground, absolutely nothing will happen to it, only the basement will be better insulated;
one of the main properties of expanded polystyrene is high resistance to stress;
durability. The material is not subject to decay, spread on the surface of various bacteria, fungi and mold;
easy to use. Due to the fact that polystyrene foam sheets are very light, they can be cut to any size and lifted to any height;
hypoallergenic;
resistance to the influence of external factors (temperature extremes, fungal infection or the appearance of mold), to various chemicals, for example: sea water, soap, alcohol, water-soluble paints and much more.

The only downside to styrofoam is the love for the material of rodents and termites. If this problem occurs on the site, then it is better to use other materials: cement, stone, concrete, sand.

Thermal insulation of the house with polystyrene outside will be the right solution.

With the help of the material, you can improve the microclimate inside the house, significantly reduce the number of heat transfer sources in the room (batteries, convectors), there will be no problems with the thermal circuit of the building itself.

To insulate the house with foam outside, you will need the following tools:

tape measure (if not, then a centimeter);
pencil (for drawing auxiliary lines on the wall);
level;
glue bucket;
mixer;
spatula (small size for covering joints);
scissors for metal;
roller;
gun for silicone.

The first stage is preparing the walls for work. To prevent the outer stage of work from progressing with a creak, you need to use a pencil and a tape measure, drawing auxiliary lines that will serve as the lower and upper boundaries of the insulation.

At the same time, make sure that the upper edge of the mesh is 6-7 cm higher than the lower mark. The rest of the mesh does not need to be glued, since it will be below the line.

During the bonding process, a special mixture for reinforcing EPS boards should be used, as this mixture must be suitable for foam reinforcement.

If you take a simple glue, then it simply will not hold the fibers together, that is, the insulation will not hold.

Therefore, do not try to replace the special agent with other analogs or cement mortar, which, at the slightest load, lags behind the foam.

At the horizontally marked level below, attach metallic profile, while bending it with the letter "G".

The first row of foam sheets will fall on the profile. In addition, such a design will be a good protection against rodents.

The third stage is the installation of the foam on the wall surface. You need to start work from the lower level.

Before applying the glue-foam to the sheet, you need to read the instructions on the bottle. The material does not need to be glued, it is enough just to attach a sheet of styrofoam to the wall.

Then you need to take the level and check if it lies exactly. If everything is perfectly smooth, then feel free to get to work.

The very first sheet should protrude by the thickness of the sheet beyond the corner of the wall, and you glue the next row without a protrusion, and thus alternate.

After installing the first sheet, make sure that the remaining sheets are on the same level, and then move on to the next rows.

The second row should be glued with a slight shift. First, half of the foam sheet is installed, and then the whole ones. This is done for better fastening and so that the joints do not coincide in a row.

If there are windows, door spans on the wall that you are insulating, then the slopes are also insulated, but for them you can use foam of a smaller thickness. When gluing the material to the slopes, do not forget the mosquito and mosquito net.

For the best effect, after the glue hardens, fix the sheets with plastic dowels. This will give you a 100% guarantee that nothing will come off, because under the slopes, as a rule, the most moisture is collected.

The next stage of insulation is the putty of foam sheets. Before plastering, set special corners with a mesh and apply a thin layer of glue on it, and cut off the excess.

The reinforcing adhesive should be applied in several layers, but not more than 5 mm thick.

The fifth stage is the completion of the installation. Apply primer to the Styrofoam sheets with a roller and attach the drips to the windows.

How to properly insulate a frame house with foam from the inside?

Before starting the insulation of walls with foam from the inside, everyone is asked many questions about the rules and technology of the process.

Remember that you need to follow certain rules when insulating a frame house with foam from the inside, otherwise the work will be a waste of money and time.

You should take care of the following nuances:

firstly, if you plan to insulate the walls, then think about the insulation of the ceiling and floor, because they also let the cold through. The correct solution to the problem is to completely insulate the house;
secondly, the room must have good internal and external waterproofing;
thirdly, when laying foam sheets, do not forget to make small special ventilation gaps.

The technology of insulating a house from the inside is not much different from the process of insulating a house with foam outside, but there are still some differences.

Stages of work:

prepare the wall: remove and clean the surface from the remnants of the old wall covering;
leveling and priming of walls. Unlike external insulation, you can use ordinary ceramic tile adhesive inside. If desired, you can attach foam sheets with plastic dowels (this is not necessary, since the foam inside is not influenced by negative external factors, for example, a strong temperature drop);
apply glue. Lay the mesh so that it goes 15 centimeters on the adjacent sheet. Then apply another layer of glue at least 2 mm thick;
after everything is dry, do the facing work: glue the wallpaper, paint the walls, etc.

Which is better: wall insulation with foam plastic inside or outside?

From the above properties of the material, it can be argued that external insulation has more advantages than internal insulation:

preserves the space of the room. Considering that a country house, which is usually small in size, is being insulated, then saving space inside will be very useful;
the temperature in the building does not change, and because of this, condensation will not appear inside the room.

The thickness of the foam sheet layer depends only on the owner's desire and on climatic conditions in which the house is located.

Foam sheets of different thicknesses are produced, so some, for fidelity, use several layers of material when insulating.

The checkerboard order when gluing foam sheets must be respected, otherwise the so-called. "Cold bridges" that allow air to pass through.

Pay special attention to the joints and corners in the openings - they need to be filled well polyurethane foam.

Products made of expanded polystyrene are safe for health, and due to the fact that the material consists of 98% of air, such "upholstery" retains heat in the premises: better remedy for home insulation in terms of quality and price can not be found.

Today, the insulation of a frame house with foam, as a method, is losing its popularity. Polyfoam (like its counterpart - expanded polystyrene), due to its properties, is not very suitable for buildings of this kind. Below we will explain why.

Why is it undesirable to insulate a frame house with polystyrene foam?

Polyfoam is an excellent insulation for brick, aerated concrete and other types of stone buildings. As for buildings made of wood, and especially frame houses, there are some nuances here. The chemical structure of expanded polystyrene does not allow it to absorb moisture and let steam through. Although this material in itself is not a favorable breeding ground for fungi and harmful microorganisms, it often contributes to the appearance of moisture on the wood paneling of the house, as a result of which it begins to deteriorate and rot. Of course, this problem can be solved with the help of high-quality processing of wood and joints between sheets of material with a waterproofing coating. But here you just have to either rely on the conscientiousness of the builders, or put the insulation yourself.

The second point is also related to the vapor barrier effect. A frame house insulated with this material is somewhat reminiscent of a thermos: in winter it is warm, in summer it is hot. This effect is achieved due to the fact that the material does not release warm air from the room. From the point of view of insulation, this is undoubtedly good. On the other hand, in such a home, you can simply suffocate if it is not regularly ventilated.

Cost and types

If the above-mentioned inconveniences associated with laying foam in a frame house are not a good reason for you to abandon this inexpensive and effective insulation, we will continue to study it further.

A standard foam sheet is marked with the letters PS. PSB - means non-pressed foam. PSB-S - pressless, self-extinguishing. Typically, the manufacturer marks the foam as “PSB-S-15”. The final digit in this abbreviation means the density of the material. 15 kg / m³ - low density. 50 kg / m³ - high. There are also medium density insulation. The most widespread and demanded option is 25 kg / m³.

Polyfoam, which is used in construction, also has differences in its chemical structure:

normal (individual granules of material are filled with gas)
polystyrene foam (the total mass of the insulation is filled with gas)

Foam manufacturers

Price in Russia (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Voronezh, etc.)
Price in Ukraine (Kiev, Lvov, Kharkov, etc.)
Together with the foam, they usually buy the building materials necessary for its installation. It is a waterproofing film, construction adhesive and sealant.

Waterproofing film

Construction adhesive

Country	Brand	Price
	Bonolit (25 kg)	RUB 222.00
Russia	Ceresit CT 21 (25 kg)	RUB 325.00
Russia	AeroStone (25 kg)	RUB 240.00
Ukraine	Kreisel 210 (25 kg)	UAH 70.50
Ukraine	Polimin P-20 (25 kg)	UAH 91.00

Building sealant

Floor insulation technology

Insulation of the floor in a frame house begins with the installation of wooden beams, on which the floor itself will be located in the future. After the beams are installed, you can start laying the insulation. Its density in this case should not be less than 25 kg / m³.

There are several ways to lay insulation on the floor:

under the rough screed
on sand or prancing
on waterproofing film

The first method is effective if you use 1-3 sheets in thickness for floor insulation. In this case, they are glued to the foundation (and, if necessary, to each other) using tile glue. It is better to cut the material with a circular saw or grinder. The high-speed cutting disc ignites the material so it does not crumble and cuts evenly. A damper tape is installed around the perimeter of the room. A layer of rough screed up to 7 cm thick is poured on top. The damper tape is needed so that the screed has the ability to expand and contract during drying without cracks appearing on its surface.

The second method is to apply wet prancing or sand to the foundation of the room. The material is evenly distributed on the surface. For this, a building rule is used. Insulation sheets are installed on top of the sand. The sheets should be cut into small pieces, about 20x30 cm. This is necessary so that they lie flat and tight on the sand. Beacons are installed on top of the insulation. Then the finishing screed is applied. The disadvantage of this method is that even with ideal laying of sheets, due to small irregularities, the finish screed can play a little.

The third way is somewhat non-standard. Its essence lies in the fact that a waterproofing film is suspended between the floor beams. Several sheets of insulation are laid on the film. On top of the insulation, another layer of film is stretched onto the beams. Then the surface is sheathed with boards.

Ceiling and roof

It is advantageous to insulate the ceiling with expanded polystyrene for the reason that sheets of these materials can be laid both from the inside of the building and from the outside. If you will be installing the insulation from the inside, you can glue it to the ceiling using tile or other building glue. You can fix the sheets with self-tapping screws. In this case, the sheets of insulation are connected to wooden beams on the ceiling with metal mounting angles. All this is sheathed with boards.

It is more difficult to insulate the roof of a frame house. Here, the insulation can be laid from below - in the same way that we insulated the ceiling. There is also a second option - to lay the insulation on top. In this case, the frame between the roof rafters is covered with a special moisture-proof film, after which insulation sheets are installed in the formed forms. Then the material is again covered with a moisture-proof film, after which it is sheathed with wooden beams, on which the tiles are subsequently laid.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated in three ways:

from the inside
from the outside
in a combined way

The first method is to lay polystyrene sheets on the inside of the building. In this case, the technology is not much different from the technology of insulating the ceiling of a frame house from the inside. A layer is applied to the wall moisture resistant film, on top of which insulation is laid between the wooden beams. After that, it is sheathed with a board.

Insulation can also be laid on the outside of the frame house. The whole process takes place in several stages:

installation of horizontal support strips or ebbs
marking and cutting out the corner (it is from the corner part that the insulation of the whole house begins)
heating the surface of the material to bend it (if we insulate the corner of the frame)
applying construction glue to the surface of the house
gluing a corner element with mandatory level control
marking, cutting and gluing of ordinary sheets (in this case, glue should also be applied to the end of the sheets so that they stick to each other; during this procedure, the level must be constantly monitored)
sealing joints with construction sealant
subsequent wall cladding

The combined method includes the previous two. The most preferred method for a frame house is method No. 1 - wall insulation from the inside.

Environmental and fire safety

There is a lot of conflicting information on the Internet regarding the fire and environmental safety of expanded polystyrene and its counterpart. Moreover, positive information is mostly posted on the network by the producers of this material, which, as you understand, does not inspire confidence.

How are things really?

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are combustible materials. Their modern manufacturers are trying to reduce their flammability to a minimum, however, they remain substances that have a higher class fire hazard... When burned, these materials emit a black, corrosive smoke that is toxic to the human body.

It should be noted that high-quality self-extinguishing foam cannot burn on its own for more than 4 seconds. To burn it, a constant source of fire is needed, which may well be the burning wood sheathing of a frame house.

Calculating the amount of foam for insulating a frame house is quite simple. The vast majority of sheets of this material are produced in a size of 1 m². To find out required amount sheets, you just need to calculate the area of the room to be insulated, multiply by the number of layers of insulation and add 5% to the resulting number. For example, if we insulate an area of 80 m² with one layer of expanded polystyrene, we need 84 sheets of material, etc.

Video: Insulation of the attic with foam from the inside

The required amount of insulation for frame houses of standard sizes
Total area of the house (m²)	The amount of foam (m²)
80	84
90	105
100	105
120

Trying to speed up and reduce the cost of construction of residential buildings, builders have come up with many technologies. In our country, the construction of frame houses is gaining popularity again. Light "Canadian" houses have been familiar to Russians for a long time, but only modern technologies allowed to make them suitable for year-round living. Insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam allows you to make living in it comfortable, regardless of the season.

The idea behind such a house is simple. The vertical frame, connected by spacers and special straps from the outside and from the inside, is sheathed with panels. The space between them is filling up good insulation... It is on him that the climate and atmosphere in the house largely depend. Anyone can insulate a frame house with foam.

Types of heaters

All materials that are used for thermal insulation in the house can be divided into organic and synthetic. Adherents of environmentally friendly materials mistakenly believe that organics are healthier and more reliable than synthetics. They forget: sawdust, shavings, other natural insulators can insulate a house, but they are afraid of fire. And insects also love them. So that the natural heat insulator does not rot, is not afraid of fungus, pests, fire, it must be treated with several additives. Natural purity after such treatments is no different from the purity of synthetically obtained materials.

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), stone, glass or mineral wool keep warm better, are not afraid harmful effects... Each of these heat insulators is good in its own way, each has its drawbacks. If we focus on the price, then the most affordable is polystyrene - a material obtained by foaming plastic. Ease of manufacture, inexpensive raw materials provide foam with the lowest price among all heaters.

Foam classification by production method

There are two methods for the production of foam. In the first, the plastic granules are sintered under the influence of high temperatures. Such foam can also be used for insulation from the inside, but this option will not be the best. Polyfoam, consisting of many balls, is more often used as packaging for household appliances.

The second method involves pressing the granules. Insulation with this material is the most common: it is strong, durable, almost does not break, therefore, the insulation of a building with such a heat insulator is more reliable. The material can have different viscosity, density, therefore, it is subdivided into grades. In order to insulate a frame house or any other house, it is better to choose PSB-S-15 or PSB-S-15. These grades have medium viscosity, they are quite suitable for thermal insulation of vertical surfaces because they have medium mechanical strength. If you need to insulate floors or plinths, it is better to choose foam with a higher strength: PSB-S-35 or PSB-S-35. These brands can also be used to insulate the walls of houses, but the materials are more suitable for buildings that are under heavy load or exposed to high humidity: roads, swimming pools, ceilings in multi-storey buildings.

Polyfoam is divided into several types. It can be polystyrene, polyurethane, polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride. Wall insulation (both outside and inside) can only be done with polystyrene foam.

Why foam is an excellent material for insulating walls of a house from the inside and outside

Insulation of a frame building with foam is very beneficial, because the material has a number of excellent characteristics.

Affordable, the foam has very high thermal insulation properties. Buildings insulated with expanded polystyrene will keep warm for many years without requiring replacement of the insulator.
Microorganisms can only multiply on the surface of the foam: they cannot penetrate inside.
Light weight does not require a solid foundation.
Expanded polystyrene is so weightless that it allows even one person to carry out installation without the help of heavy equipment.
Polyfoam does not decompose, does not rot, is not afraid of wind and temperature changes.
Does not require additional wind protection.
A building insulated with this insulator becomes practically soundproof.

It also has some disadvantages for the walls of the house. However, with correct operation they do not appear.

The material does not tolerate heating: it begins to release harmful substances. However, no one heats the insulation to temperatures that make expanded polystyrene dangerous.

Expanded polystyrene is afraid of acetone, some other corrosive building liquids. But the insulation located inside or on the outer walls is not covered with either varnishes or paints.

Wall insulation with expanded polystyrene: sequence of works

Insulation can be done from the inside of the house or outside. The technologies are the same. Careful adherence to them ensures that a warm, cozy atmosphere will forever be established in the room, which neither wind, nor rains, nor temperature changes can spoil.

Correct thermal insulation is carried out in several layers at once, and begins with preparation. Paints and varnishes, nails, any foreign inclusions are removed from the wall. If the partition is uneven or made of loose materials, it must be well plastered. As a result, you should get a flat surface without depressions, cracks. Before it should be coated with a primer: this will improve adhesion (adhesion properties).
If insulation is carried out in a building under construction, then at the second stage it is recommended to install external window sills, insulate the slopes. Ebb tides are attached so that the window sill protrudes 3-4 centimeters beyond the wall: this leaves room for thermal insulation. In order for the insulation of the slope to reliably dock with the insulation of the wall, it should not be cut flush: it is better if it protrudes 1 cm beyond the wall from the outer slope.
Before gluing the insulation from below, a profile is installed that secures the foam. If the insulation is placed on a flat surface, then the fixing solution can be applied under a comb. With drops of more than a centimeter, it is better to do this with bloopers, so that more solution gets into the recesses, and less into the bulges. So the plane will be smoother, so the insulator will be fixed on it more reliably.
The solution is also applied to the edges of the foam: on the wall it will disperse, fall under other sheets. The work is carried out from the bottom up.
Important: when gluing the plates, make sure that they lay in a checkerboard pattern, and the seams of the next row do not coincide with the seams of the previous one.
After the last sheet of insulation has been applied, it is allowed to stand for three days for the glue to dry.

The walls are dry: what's next?

Once the glue is completely dry, the foam is nailed down. At the corners of each sheet (6-9 cm away from it) and in its center, holes are drilled into which fungi are then inserted - special caps with sleeves. A nail is inserted into the sleeves. It is better if it is made of plastic: metal ones form cold bridges. It's easier to insert all the fungi first, and only then hammer in the nails. This should be done so that the caps do not protrude above the surface.
The next step is foaming the gaps between the foam tiles. They are formed due to irregularities in the walls of the house, poor-quality trimming of foam. If the gaps are more than a centimeter, strips of cut thermal insulation are inserted into them, and then foamed. Gaps less than a centimeter are simply filled with sealed foam.
After the foam dries, the joints and places where the nails are driven are covered with an adhesive. Then the putty is rubbed so that a smooth wall is obtained.
The insulation of the walls on the outside is finished. Now a mesh is attached to the foam wall. They start from the corners. It is better to fix special perforated corners, but you can do without them. The solution is applied to the insulation, because the mesh is attached to the wall so that about 10 cm lies on the clean insulation. The mesh is smoothed, a solution is added so that it almost completely covers the mesh.
The dried wall is rubbed again, then primed. Now you can start finishing the facade.

How to insulate walls from the inside with foam plastic?

The frame structure will be especially warm if it is insulated not only from the outside, but also from the inside. They do it like this.

Important: all walls of a frame house should be insulated, and not only those that border the street.
A deeply penetrating primer is applied to the pre-aligned partition. It will remove dust from the surface, allowing it to better adhere to the adhesive solution.
As with external insulation, a basement profile is attached from the inside.
Prepare (using the same technology) a solution for work from the inside. Apply it to thermal insulation, stick polystyrene foam to the wall.
After drying, the foam is nailed with special nails.
The joints are processed.
A layer of glue is applied, then the fiberglass mesh is laid and fixed.
Equip a vapor barrier. If the insulation from the inside was carried out with extruded polystyrene foam, then it is not needed. If the walls were insulated with foam of a different brand, then a vapor barrier film should be strengthened on top.
The resulting cake is primed, proceed to the finishing.

Some experts consider it more reliable a method in which finishing applied not to thermal insulation, but to an additional plasterboard wall. Such an additional partition makes it possible to use not only polystyrene for insulation, but also its type - liquid expanded polystyrene. In addition, additional air spaces between the partitions also make the indoor climate more uniform.

What is especially important to consider when insulating with foam?

Styrofoam is a material with uneven edges. Getting into the joints, cold air can create cold bridges. This means that the wall will freeze through. That is why joints should be sealed with particular care.
The main problem of decorating walls with insulation from the inside is the transfer of the dew point. Moisture begins to condense closer to the inner wall, which can either ruin the plaster or destroy the wall itself. To prevent this, it is important to choose a reliable vapor barrier film. Only EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam) does not need it. All other foams without vapor barrier are not recommended.

For wall insulation - a common practice. The work can be done independently, without the involvement of specialists.

Most Popular Blog Articles of the Week

When using foam, it is worth considering the specifics of this material based on its strengths and weaknesses.

Provides excellent thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is only 0.037-0.043 W / K * m. In winter, warmth does not come out of such a house, and in summer it is cool, the hot outside air again lingers outside. Styrofoam creates the effect of a thermos and allows you to save on both heating and air conditioning.
It has excellent moisture resistance and waterproofing, the water absorption of a foam sheet for 28 days under water is about 3%, the resistance to diffusion of water vapor - (p) for rigid foams is from 20 to 100 units.
High level of noise absorption.
Low price, one of the most affordable materials for thermal insulation.

When exposed to temperature conditions of the environment (for polystyrene, temperatures of more than +100 C are terrible), the material practically does not change its volumes. The consequence of this is the absence of movement inside the frame when the foam is heated, leading to damage to the fasteners and surrounding materials. Plates sit in place, do not deteriorate, which means they do not require replacement - repair, the operational life of the entire structure increases.
Lack of toxic substances. Polyfoam does not emit dangerous vapors, does not provoke allergies, does not exude unpleasant odors and is completely safe for health under normal conditions.
Flammability. Standard polystyrene (PSB, PPT) has a G3-G4 degree of flammability, with the addition of fire retardants, it decreases to G1 (low-combustible self-extinguishing substances) and is marked with the S - PSB-S prefix.
Simple and easy installation. The work can be performed by one person, does not require physical strength and special skills, it is enough to carefully familiarize yourself with the technology.

TO weaknesses the thermal insulator does not include many characteristics.

Vapor tightness. Moisture entering the walls cannot pass freely through the foam and accumulates, as a result wooden frame damp and can rot. In houses with high humidity, exhaust ventilation is required.
High flammability of low-quality PPT. An unscrupulous manufacturer may not add flame retardant components, as a result of which the flammability of the foam will be at the G3-G4 level.
Toxicity. Under normal conditions, the foam is safe, but when melted and burned, it releases toxic substances.

How to insulate the floor in a frame house with polystyrene foam, see below.

Employees who have specialized education are not advised to insulate the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam. This is due to several drawbacks of the material:

Flammability. The insulation is easily flammable. For it to ignite, you need a continuous source of fire, which can be the wooden elements of the frame of the house. Although manufacturers claim that the material is processed with special flame retardants and is absolutely safe in this regard. But the opinions of fire safety experts differ. And by State standards Styrofoam is still considered a combustible material.
Toxicity. During operation, the insulation does not emit any caustic or harmful substances. But if the material starts to ignite, then black smoke is released, which is very dangerous for human life and health.
Low vapor permeability. In the process of life, all living organisms emit steam. For comfortable stay in the room it is necessary for the steam to come out. Otherwise, mold and mildew will develop on the surfaces in the rooms, which is also very dangerous for humans.

Resistance of foam to chemical compounds

Chemical compound
Saline solution (brine, sea water)	+
Soap and wetting agent solution	+
Bleaching agents: hypochlorite, chlorine solutions or hydrogen peroxide	+
Acid solutions	+
Not concentrated hydrochloric acid (35%) or nitric acid (less than 50%)	+
Concentrated sulfuric acid, 100% formic acid	—
Caustic sodium, ammonia	+
Organic solvents: acetone, ether, benzene, xylene, trichlorethylene	—
Medical gasoline, white spirit	—
Paraffin oil, petrolatum	+ —
Diesel fuel	—
Petrol	—
Alcohols: methanol, ethanol	+ —
Organosilicon compounds	+
stable (regardless of the duration of action)	+
conditionally stable ( long-term action leads to shrinkage or destruction of the surface layer)	+ —
unstable (shrinks or dissolves)	—

Since the material does not allow steam to pass through, it will accumulate between the wall and the insulation and this will lead to the fact that the wooden elements begin to collapse prematurely. In addition, the insulation of the frame house with foam creates the effect of a thermos. The heat is always stored inside the premises both in winter and in summer.

But if for the cold season such an effect is simply necessary, then in the summer it is in the house, it will be unbearable, for the reason constantly high temperature air. Air conditioning or fans will need to be installed.

If the family budget does not allow choosing a safer insulation, you can use several tips from professionals:

Before insulating the house with foam outside, the material must be additionally treated with fire retardants (substances that resist fire).
Forced ventilation will help remove environment steam
Foam insulation must be covered with a windproof film on both sides. From the side inner wall it will perform the function of waterproofing. Condensed steam will be removed using a ventilated gap. And the outer side will be protected from moisture from the atmosphere and low temperatures.

How to insulate walls

Styrofoam is traditionally used to insulate the walls of a frame house, however, it is still better to use it to insulate the house from the outside, since the technical smell that the foam plates emit disappears from the room for at least a week. In the first week after the walls are insulated inside the house, residents may have headaches and sleep disturbances.

Insulation of the inner wall with foam

What you need to prepare the walls for insulation:

perforator
grater
paint brushes
bucket or other container for diluting mixtures
spatulas
needle roller
a hammer

To fix the foam, you need to make a flat surface of the wall, for which we remove the old finish. After cleaning the wall of dirt, dust and other coatings, make sure that no gaps and air spaces are left when applying the foam sheets. The foam must fit snugly against the wall. If the quality of the walls leaves much to be desired, it is necessary to make a primer. To do this, use a brush or spray.

Using a needle roller, we make the surface of the foam plate rough.

Important: we begin to glue the insulation from the bottom, for which we set the starting bar. This strip will act as a support for the first sheets of foam, and will help to install them evenly.

Using a spatula, apply the adhesive mixture to the insulation, then press it against the wall surface and press it with the palm of your hand. You cannot use hard things that will damage the foam - only your palm. After installing the insulation, check for dents, cracks or damage.

In the same way, we continue to insulate all the walls, trying not to leave gaps between the foam sheets. When the work is completed, it is necessary to use special plastic nails, which experts call a mushroom. Such a mushroom consists of a plastic circle and a leg-sleeve. Drive a nail, preferably plastic, into the sleeve to avoid cold spots.

Fungus for fixing foam boards to the wall

The fungus is attached thanks to the holes made with a punch. The length of the holes should be 20 mm larger than the size of the fungus. On average, 5 fungi are consumed per sheet of foam.

Fungi are located at the joints of the plates, additionally pressing the foam sheets against the wall

Please note that the hats are flush with the insulation, and after hammering in the nails, they are heated by 1.5-2 mm. If, after warming the wall, gaps of 5 mm or more remain between the sheets, they must be additionally foamed.

Foam sizes you need are easy to cut

How to properly insulate a frame house with foam from the inside

Before starting the insulation of walls with foam from the inside, everyone is asked many questions about the rules and technology of the process.

Remember that you need to follow certain rules when insulating a frame house with foam from the inside, otherwise the work will be a waste of money and time.

You should take care of the following nuances:

firstly, if you plan to insulate the walls, then think about the insulation of the ceiling and floor, because they also let the cold through. The correct solution to the problem is to completely insulate the house;
secondly, the room must have good internal and external waterproofing;
thirdly, when laying foam sheets, do not forget to make small special ventilation gaps.

The technology of insulating a house from the inside is not much different from the process of insulating a house with foam outside, but there are still some differences.

Stages of work:

prepare the wall: remove and clean the surface from the remnants of the old wall covering;
leveling and priming of walls. Unlike external insulation, you can use ordinary ceramic tile adhesive inside. If desired, you can attach foam sheets with plastic dowels (this is not necessary, since the foam inside is not influenced by negative external factors, for example, a strong temperature drop);
apply glue. Lay the mesh so that it goes 15 centimeters on the adjacent sheet. Then apply another layer of glue at least 2 mm thick;
after everything is dry, do the facing work: glue the wallpaper, paint the walls, etc.

Which is better: wall insulation with foam plastic inside or outside?

From the above properties of the material, it can be argued that external insulation has more advantages than internal insulation:

preserves the space of the room. Considering that a country house, which is usually small in size, is being insulated, then saving space inside will be very useful;
the temperature in the building does not change, and because of this, condensation will not appear inside the room.

The thickness of the foam sheet layer depends only on the desire of the owner and on the climatic conditions in which the house is located.

Foam sheets of different thicknesses are produced, so some, for fidelity, use several layers of material when insulating.

The checkerboard order when gluing foam sheets must be respected, otherwise the so-called. "Cold bridges" that allow air to pass through.

Pay special attention to the joints and corners in the openings - they need to be well filled with polyurethane foam. ... Products made of expanded polystyrene are safe for health, and due to the fact that the material consists of 98% of air, such "upholstery" retains warmth in the premises: there is no better means for insulating a house in terms of quality and price.

Products made of expanded polystyrene are safe for health, and due to the fact that the material consists of 98% of air, such "upholstery" retains heat in the premises: there is no better means for insulating a house in terms of quality and price.

Installation technology

A frame house can be insulated with polystyrene foam both outside and inside. In any case, the slabs are placed between the posts and the cladding on both sides of the walls. To avoid the formation of cold bridges between the foam plates, it is necessary to correctly install them.

Preparation

At this stage, the frame is processed. They remove the unevenness of the walls, protruding nails, wire.

The surface is cleaned of dust and debris. Gaps and slots are filled with polyurethane foam to avoid air getting into them. Damp wood is dried construction hairdryer... The entire area of the frame is primed and allowed to dry completely.

Waterproofing layer

The waterproofing layer is mounted on the outside of the walls: it will protect them from moisture and wind. Of course, foam is a moisture resistant material, but at sub-zero temperatures dampness and moisture penetrating into the frame can freeze and destroy the insulation.

The waterproofing material (glassine, plastic wrap or membrane covering) must be laid on the walls, fixed with nails, and the joints must be glued with tape. The stripes are overlapped (10 cm overlap).

Insulation laying

Installation of vertical sags and beacons is carried out using cords. Thus, it will be possible to accurately position the expanded polystyrene plates, prevent them from warping.

The insulation is fixed between the frame posts with glue. It is kneaded in the amount required for 1 hour of work. The adhesive composition is applied pointwise in five places of the plate and the edges of the insulation are carefully processed with it. If the pieces of foam do not match, they are trimmed with a heated knife.

Additionally, the heat-insulating material is fixed with plastic dowels (5 pieces). Do not use metal fasteners: they will create cold bridges in the insulation. The attachment points must be primed with adhesive.

All gaps must be sealed with liquid foam or frost-resistant polyurethane foam.

In order to insulate the surfaces of a frame house as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to lay the heat insulator in three layers, each 5 cm thick. In this case, the installation of the plates is carried out in such a way that the next layer overlaps the joints of the previous one.

Reinforcement

A reinforcing mesh, attached over the thermal insulation material, will help to securely bond the subsequent layer of final finishing with foam. Wall corners must be reinforced with special corner profiles.

For reinforcement, a mesh with a mesh size of 3 * 6 cm is chosen.It is laid with an overlap (an overlap of 10 cm), pressed tightly into the insulation plates and fixed with a layer of glue.

Final finishing

Protection of walls from negative atmospheric influences can be carried out using a putty. It is used to treat the surface twice, before applying the second layer, the first one must dry completely.

After filling, you can start painting the surface with facade paint. This type of work is carried out using a roller. The coloring composition is applied from top to bottom in 2-3 layers. Each subsequent layer is performed after the previous one has dried. Facade paint dries quickly and is easy to apply.

The outer walls of a frame house can be decorated with stone or siding. In the latter case, the installation of the lathing is required. In the case of a frame house, its functions will be performed by the frame elements.

Step-by-step algorithm for mounting the walls of a frame house

It is very important to carry out a high-quality antiseptic treatment before starting any work, using special impregnations for this. The frame of the house must be erected from the bottom strapping

Initially, you need to mount a shut-off waterproofing.

In order to preserve the wood as much as possible, the concrete is coated with bitumen. The timber should be laid on roofing material, attracting it to the concrete base with anchors.

Next, the process of constructing the corners of the frame structure is carried out. To connect the boards and so that they do not change their position during the construction process, you must first secure them with special spacers.

Then they equip intermediate racks, already installing the upper harness on top. To further strengthen the structure, the gaps must be reinforced with jibs. Jibs are also installed in the openings of doors and windows. After completing the installation process, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

Wall insulation technology with foam

The frame house is insulated directly between the racks and always on both sides. To do this, initially you need to process the frame and prepare it for insulation works... It is imperative to remove all air channels so that the cold does not pass after the filing of the foam. It is desirable that the walls are even, but if this cannot be achieved, then you need to carefully nail the sheets in all the recessed places.

It is also imperative to remove all old nails from the walls and other bulging objects. The key to a well-done work is that the foam sheets fit snugly against the wall. If vibration is observed, then this can significantly affect the further processing of the walls. Any remaining space between the wall and the foam can cause cracks in the facing plaster and in general, because of this, the properties of thermal insulation can be violated.

The walls of a frame house must be necessarily dry, but if there is moisture or even dampness appears with black spots, then everything must be thoroughly dried with a construction hairdryer. Black spots of mold can be treated with special solutions (deep penetration antifungal primer) so that it does not show up again after a while.

As a result, a high-quality and reliable frame must be dry, even and hermetically sealed. This stage is called preparatory and a lot depends on it. This primarily concerns durability. The more responsible you are to the preparatory work, the more likely it is that the insulated walls will last a long time. It is also better not to skimp on the materials themselves, because you have to pay for the quality.

The next step is to properly waterproof the walls. Taking into account the fact that the foam does not lend itself to moisture and does not absorb, the waterproofing layer can only be applied from the inside of the house. This is absolutely necessary so that after a few years the walls do not begin to freeze in severe frosts.

As a waterproofing material in modern construction use plastic wrap, glassine or special membrane coatings. It should be remembered that each subsequent waterproofing sheet of material must be overlapped with at least 10 cm and then glued with a special adhesive film or transparent tape.

At the end of the successful construction works, you can proceed directly to laying the foam. The thickness of the sheet is chosen purely according to individual preferences, since everything depends on the house itself and the desired result. Each sheet of foam must be placed between the frame posts. Previously, the foam is treated with a special glue on which the sheets are attached.

Styrofoam can also be fixed with special nails (umbrellas), but if the wall is not even, then in order to avoid the appearance of unnecessary gaps, it is better to use adhesive solutions. Dowels are more suitable for flat walls and at the same time fix the insulation well enough. It is also worth noting that each joint of the sheets must be filled with frost-resistant assembly foam. This will even more allow you to save heat and protect the walls from freezing in severe frosts.

When insulating the walls of a frame house, it is imperative to take into account the fact that the walls can be compressed and expanded with temperature changes, respectively, it is recommended to leave gaps in the aisles of several millimeters between the foam sheets.

Also, this feature significantly affects appearance facing plaster. If you do not leave gaps between the foam sheets, then over time, cracks may appear on the plaster.
Be sure not to forget about such a nuance as a vapor barrier procedure. For this, a special vapor barrier film is used, which is necessary to protect the insulation layer and so that condensation does not appear on the walls.

So, for example, from the outside of the walls, it is possible to carry out vapor barrier after waterproofing. As for the interior decoration, it is recommended to pre-plaster the surface using a special mesh. For example, fiberglass mesh for plastering work or ordinary plastic mesh is ideal. Finally, you can prime the wall.

Installation rules

If the building is being built on its own, then with the question of how to properly insulate a frame house with foam, you should contact the professionals. After all, if you do not adhere to the technology, then over time, the wooden frame elements will begin to rot.

Insulation scheme with a hinged facade: 1 - interior decoration; 2 - vapor barrier; 3 - frame rack; 4 - expanded polystyrene; 5 - siding; 6 - vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane.

In order to extend the service life of the main structural elements, they must be protected from moisture. To do this, they are covered with double-sided sealing adhesive tape. Before applying the protection, you need to clean the wooden posts from dirt.
The next stage of foam insulation will be the arrangement of a vapor barrier. On the side of the premises, a vapor-tight membrane is laid with a 10-15 cm overlap, the joints must be glued with tape. This will make the layer airtight.
The wall from the side of the room is sheathed with boards or slabs.
Then you need to go to the side of the facade. There, between the uprights of the frame is performed. Plates of material are laid tightly so that there are no gaps and crevices. It is advisable to treat the joints with a sealant or polyurethane foam. It is necessary to ensure that the joints of the subsequent rows do not coincide with the previous ones.
When the insulation is completely laid over the entire area of the facade, it should be covered with a windproof membrane. A small amount of moisture that gets on the foam, when exposed to low temperatures, can destroy the material. The film will protect both the insulation and the premises from heat loss.
Insulated frame houses with expanded polystyrene require additional decorative finishing... It will also perform the function of protection from external negative influences. To do this, you can use siding, facade tiles and even decorative plaster.

Insulation of a frame house with extruded polystyrene foam is carried out using the same technology as with foam. The difference is that if penoplex is used, then you do not need to buy plates of the maximum thickness. This insulation has a coefficient of thermal conductivity even less than that of foam.

We insulate external walls and basement

Most often, foam plates are used for external insulation of a house. Since it is not afraid of moisture, therefore it is preferable to use it instead of mineral wool... As we know, frame wall consists of several layers, and its last layer is an OSB board.

We insulate the frame house from the outside with polyfoam

It is best if the work is carried out in the warm season, since frost deteriorates the properties of the glue, and the insulation plates will be attached worse. We attach the foam in the same way as we attached it to the wall. We use the dowels after we have glued several sheets. They securely fix the sheets. And you can be sure that when the life of the glue is over, the sheets will not come off.

Insulation of the foundation and basement

To insulate the basement, we use 10 cm foam, since it is the basement that is the coldest part of the wall. The basement, using a reinforcing mesh, is treated with cement mortar. When the cement is completely dry, you can proceed to the exterior decoration. The most commonly used plaster. If you opted for lime plaster, you need to add cement grade of at least 400 to it. We process the wall in two layers without intermediate grouting. We read about finishing the facade after insulation.

Installation of floors

Installation of the floor in a frame house begins with preparatory work. So, used wood materials be sure to soak special means that protect against fire, pests and mice in the frame house.

If the construction of a frame house is carried out on a columnar foundation, at the preparatory stage it is necessary to arrange the pillars. Insulation of the floor of a frame house on screw piles begins with screwing in the piles themselves.

Lags

Before the installation of the lag in the frame house, the bottom strapping of the foundation is made, which allows you to connect the pile-screw foundation and the floor into a single chain. The strapping is performed as follows:

On the pile foundation, a bar of the lower strapping is laid out.
The strapping bar is connected to each other in the corners "in the paw" and is additionally fixed with a bracket.
The beam is bolted to the pile foundation heads.

Floor joists and sub-floor.

After strapping, proceed to the direct laying of the log. For the process, boards of 100 x 50 mm are most often used. The choice depends on the load on flooring... Lags fit on bottom rail foundation and fixed with nails. It is imperative that the finished structure is impregnated with antiseptics and fire-fighting solutions.

The traditional construction of a frame house provides for the installation of the subfloor at the first stage, after the installation is completed, the installation of walls and partitions begins. Departure from the described principle is allowed, depending on the type of construction and the wishes of the owner of the house.

Rough floor

Wooden slats are stuffed between the logs, on which sheet plywood or special moisture-resistant boards are laid. In order not to conceal the height of the log, which can be used to lay insulation of a greater height, you can attach the subfloor directly to the lower part of the log without using support rails. There are several styling guidelines.

The subfloor sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern.
The thickness of the plywood or slab is selected depending on the distance between the logs.
The sheets are fastened using an integrated method - using special glue and self-tapping screws, this approach allows you to further avoid squeaks in the floor when walking.
Fastening is carried out along the edge and in the center, fasteners with self-tapping screws are placed 150 mm from each other.
A gap of 2-3 mm must be left between the plywood sheets. To make the distance the same everywhere, nails are placed in the gaps required diameter... After completing the installation, they are pulled out.

Subfloor boards are attached to the joists.

Waterproofing membrane

A waterproofing membrane must be placed in the space between the logs and the subfloor. The most convenient way to fix the waterproofing membrane is with a construction stapler. Thermal insulation of the floor in a frame house on piles is one of the last stages of floor installation. For insulation, foam or mineral wool is most often used. We will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of the heaters later.

Insulation of a frame house with foam

Before you start laying the insulation in the inter-rack space, you need to cut the sheets of the required size. This will be needed if the frame pitch and the width of the insulation do not match. Styrofoam can be cut with a tool designed for this purpose. It is sold in hardware stores. If it is not possible to buy it, and the amount of work is large, you can make a similar device with your own hands. Its principle of operation is to heat a thin metal string that can cut foam like oil.

Cutting is done in such a way that the insulation fits tightly into the space between the racks. But no matter how hard you try, the cracks will remain somewhere. Polyfoam is a non-plastic material and tends to crumble. Therefore, gaps are inevitable. Each of them should be filled with polyurethane foam. After completing this work, proceed to the vapor barrier device.

The membrane is placed on frame posts and attached to them with a stapler and staples

It is important not to confuse the sides of the material and to lay it as recommended by the manufacturer. To do this, you need to follow the markings on the canvas.

The vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the walls. A windproof fabric is laid on the outside.

Pros and cons of the material

Among the main advantages of foam plastic should be highlighted:

good performance of thermal insulation, allowing the house to warm up quickly and cool down slowly;
good moisture resistance, thanks to which this material is used as insulation for the basement floor, foundation;
excellent sound insulation;
with foam insulation, there is no special need for wind protection and vapor barrier;
rather low cost, which allows significant savings in case of large volumes of work;
the service life of foam as insulation can be 20-50 years, depending on the density and thickness of the material, the correct installation;
constancy of overall dimensions with temperature drops, foam plates do not shrink and do not move;
small weight of the material;
ease of installation.

insulation of the frame change house with polystyrene foam

However, there are also disadvantages, here they are:

low mechanical strength, to protect against mechanical damage it is necessary to take care of a protective coating;
the material is almost completely impermeable to air;
polystyrene is destroyed under the influence of organic solvents, paint and varnish coatings based on nitro paints, petroleum products, exposure to ultraviolet rays;
flammability, although the addition of special additives - fire retardants - reduces the flammability of the material. Combustion may release toxic materials.

Based on the properties of the material, the economic feasibility of using foam as a heater is quite obvious. Low cost and excellent performance characteristics are the reason for the particular popularity of the material among budget developers.

Advice: the apparent cheapness of the material may turn out to be imaginary. For high-quality thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene, a lot of polyurethane foam may be required.

Video about the production and characteristics of polystyrene foam:

Do-it-yourself wall insulation of a frame house

Any material for wall insulation can be used. Need to remember
about your area and select material accordingly. Expanded clay or slag can be used,
if in winter it is not colder than 20 ° С. Otherwise, the material must be different. Before insulation
walls need to be waterproofed between outside wall and insulation, the best
the material is parchment paper. The waterproofing is fixed with slats and secured
overlap. Corners and bends overlap at least 20 cm.

After completing the construction of the walls, you need to take care of their insulation. Duly executed
insulation will protect the building from heat loss in the cold season and will contribute to
maintaining a comfortable temperature regime in the premises. So, let's get down to insulation
frame house. As insulation for walls, you can use various
structure and its technical specifications materials. Insulation can be distributed
into two types - organic and inorganic. When we choose one of the types of insulation
for the walls of our house, we need to ensure the effectiveness of the insulation. He is not
must lose its quality properties during the operation of the structure. Material,
which we will use to insulate the walls of the house, must have a density, not
exceeding 500-600 kilograms per cubic meter. Insulation materials such as slag
or expanded clay, of course, can be used for thermal insulation of walls, but only if
in the area of your residence, the average daily temperature does not drop in winter
below the 20 ° C mark.

Before proceeding with the insulation of the walls, it is necessary to perform waterproofing -
between the outer wall and the insulation. For this purpose, you can use a film, it is better
in all, for a waterproofing device, for example, parchment paper is suitable. Cutting out
it into strips of the required dimensions, we fasten them to the wall with the help of rails, be sure to fix
overlap material (sheet to sheet). For the corner joints of the walls of the house, the overlap should be
not less than 20 cm.

Slab materials

It is more convenient to insulate walls with slab materials. Because fall asleep
loose material on the wall is a rather laborious procedure. As a board material
stone wool or mineral wool can serve. After fastening, do not forget about the joints
- they need to be covered with foam or other material.

If you insulate a house with bulk materials, it automatically increases
the complexity of the work performed. But the insulation of the walls using plate materials,
for example, mineral wool, will provide us with high-quality and fast work performance.

Mineral wool must be fixed to the walls of the house using 15 × 20 bars
cm. It is advisable to fill the bars vertically. Remember that you need to ensure
sealing the longest joint of mineral wool slabs (from the bottom point of the structure to the top).
Therefore, it is best to stuff bars with a large width at the joints of the slabs,
than those that attach the mineral wool slabs in the middle.

Phased house insulation

Vapor barrier

Polyfoam does not allow steam to pass through, and, accordingly, does not allow moisture that has got through the facade of the building to evaporate. To prevent its penetration into the building frame from the premises, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier.

double-sided sealing adhesive tape;
reinforced mesh or other material as a vapor barrier.

The work is carried out in a specific order.

At the time of work, the frame must be treated with protective impregnations, then access to it will be closed.
Dust and dirt are removed from the frame in the work area.
It is removed from the tape protective film and is applied to all elements of the frame with which the vapor barrier will come into contact.
The protective film is removed from the tape from the second side.

A roll with a vapor barrier is rolled across the racks, sequentially pressing against the tapes. The joints are glued with tape, and the rolls overlap each other by about 200 mm.
After gluing the film, it is additionally fixed with a stapler at intervals of 25 to 30 cm.
To provide further wall cladding and protect the vapor barrier from damage, slats are mounted on the frame. In this case, it does not matter whether they will be attached immediately after vapor barrier or immediately before finishing.

The technology of vapor barrier walls provides absolute protection against moisture penetration onto the foam, but prevents it from leaving the room. In this regard, a good exhaust ventilation, otherwise mold and other problems cannot be avoided.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing of walls

After the vapor barrier is completed, it is the turn of the walls to be insulated with foam. For these purposes, you will need the following materials:

plates PPT or PSB-S 10 cm in thickness, foam with a density of 15 kg / cu. m or higher;
a film with wind and waterproof properties;
slats with a section of 20x30 mm;
adhesive sealing tape;
polyurethane foam.

The work is carried out as follows.

The slabs are laid between the frame racks, often the distance between them was initially set for the size of the slabs - 50 cm. If the slabs are not formatted, you will have to either cut or fill the gap with a cut piece of slab of the appropriate width. It is better to use a shallow hacksaw or a cutting knife to cut the styrofoam.
The gaps between the frame and the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam.
The second layer of slabs is laid so that the joints do not line up with the first row, otherwise there will be cold bridges. The crevices are also filled with foam.
The film for wind and waterproofing on the outside is mounted like a vapor barrier on the inside. The frame is pasted over with sealing tape, then a protective film is attached to it and subsequently fixed with a stapler.
On top of the attached film, self-tapping strips are attached to the frame. The gap created is necessary for ventilation in order to remove moisture trapped under the facade cladding. When installing the slats, a level must be used to maintain the correct verticality of the walls. If the frame was not erected perfectly, the slats make it possible to fix this. The location of the slats is easily adjusted by placing plywood scraps at the desired end.

There is not much difference between whether to sheathe the frame from the inside first, and then from the outside, or, conversely, the sequence of these stages is left to your discretion.

Floor insulation

At this stage, you will need the following materials:

PPT-35;
vapor barrier film;
sealing adhesive tape;
polyurethane foam;
penofol or other substrate.

Isolation takes place according to the following plan:

a vapor barrier film with gluing joints is laid on the logs, the overlap of the canvases should be about 200 mm;
PPT is laid between the lag, and the gaps between them are filled with foam;
the second layer of the vapor barrier film is laid on top, the fixing method is the same as for the walls - on adhesive tape, fixing with a stapler;
the substrate is laid above to improve sound insulation.

Ceiling insulation

For these purposes, you will need the following materials:

vapor barrier film;
sealing adhesive tape;
nylon thread;
nails.

The work is carried out in the following order:

the vapor barrier is fixed to the floor beams and attic flooring using self-adhesive tape and a stapler, like walls;
in the lower part of the beams, nails are driven in with an interval of 20-30 cm, so that the hats protrude under the strapping with a thread;
the foam is inserted between the floor beams and is fixed with a zigzag tension of the nylon thread between the nails, with a tight fit of the slabs, additional fixation can be omitted;
the second layer of vapor barrier is fixed to the beams with a stapler.

Floor insulation

To the bottom of the lateral surfaces of the lag, "cranial" (support) bars are attached. Any sheet material is laid on them:

Chipboard; OSB; thick (at least 1 cm) plywood.

Slab, unedged board, as well as boards of 2 - 3 grades can be used. When using cheap lumber, they must be peeled from the bark.

In addition, before starting work, the surfaces of wooden sheet or lumber must be treated with an antiseptic. The surface of the roll is covered with a waterproofing membrane - moisture transmission capacity is at least 800 g / m2. The canvas is laid with an overlap with an approach to the wall of about 20 cm. Then a layer of any "breathing" insulation is laid:

basalt wool; glass wool - special care should be taken during installation; slag; expanded clay.

Waste of wood production can be used - small shavings and sawdust. But in this case, it is necessary to provide for their protection from rodents. Another disadvantage is that sawdust is highly flammable.

A moisture-proof fabric is laid on top of the insulation. The work ends from the inside with the installation of a "clean" floor and floor covering.

Specifications

Polyfoam (expanded polystyrene) is a heat-insulating material with excellent physical and chemical properties. It is produced in the form of white plates consisting of polystyrene balls filled with pure hydrocarbon (pentane).

For the manufacture of such material, only 2% of polystyrene is used, the remaining 98% is air. In the process of creating foam, pentane becomes volatile and expands. The balls, filling with air, increase in volume. Under the influence of steam, they become elastic and stick together. This creates a lightweight material, the scope of which includes not only construction.

Depending on the brand, the density of the foam is from 15 to 50 kg / m3. In bending, the strength limit is up to 0.42 MPa. In a dry state at temperatures from +20 ° C to +30 ° C, the thermal conductivity of the foam is not more than 0.029-0.033 W. Humidity no more than 2%.

Wall insulation with expanded polystyrene work sequence

The scheme of waterproofing the walls of the frame.

Correct thermal insulation is carried out in several layers at once, and begins with preparation. Paints and varnishes, nails, any foreign inclusions are removed from the wall. If the partition is uneven or made of loose materials, it must be well plastered. As a result, you should get a flat surface without depressions, cracks. Before it should be coated with a primer: this will improve adhesion (adhesion properties).
If insulation is carried out in a building under construction, then at the second stage it is recommended to install external window sills, insulate the slopes. Ebb tides are attached so that the window sill protrudes 3-4 centimeters beyond the wall: this leaves room for thermal insulation. In order for the insulation of the slope to reliably dock with the insulation of the wall, it should not be cut flush: it is better if it protrudes 1 cm beyond the wall from the outer slope.
Before gluing the insulation from below, a profile is installed that secures the foam. If the insulation is placed on a flat surface, then the fixing solution can be applied under a comb. With drops of more than a centimeter, it is better to do this with bloopers, so that more solution gets into the recesses, and less into the bulges. So the plane will be smoother, so the insulator will be fixed on it more reliably.
The solution is also applied to the edges of the foam: on the wall it will disperse, fall under other sheets. The work is carried out from the bottom up.
Important: when gluing the plates, make sure that they lay in a checkerboard pattern, and the seams of the next row do not coincide with the seams of the previous one.
After the last sheet of insulation has been applied, it is allowed to stand for three days for the glue to dry.

What is expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is an artificial foam material. There are two types of polystyrene foam for insulating walls and other building structures with your own hands:

Option 1. Styrofoam

Option 2. Extruded polystyrene foam

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam.

Foam can be used as the most affordable option for thermal insulation. It consists of small balls with a cavity filled with air inside. Air is one of the most effective insulation materials; only inert gases prevent heat loss better. Do-it-yourself insulation with expanded polystyrene allows you to achieve excellent results due to the following characteristics of the material:

availability and low cost;
high thermal insulation characteristics;
resistance to biological effects (mold, fungus);
ease of work with the material and do-it-yourself installation;
the material does not shrink over time;
safety for humans.

low strength (additional protection of the foam from mechanical stress is required);
instability of the material to high humidity at low temperatures, can easily crumble into separate balls;
instability to fire.

All these disadvantages are compensated for by the low cost of the material, but it is possible to take them into account and reduce negative manifestations to zero.

Insulation of the attic roof

Layer order for attic insulation

When building a private house, the option of using the under-roof space as an attic is becoming more and more popular. In this case, it is necessary to provide comfortable conditions for stay and reliably protect the room from the cold.

The main heat losses occur precisely through the roof, therefore sufficient attention must be paid to its insulation.

In the vast majority of cases, polystyrene foam is placed between the rafters... Fastening is carried out using adhesives and special nails to the rafter legs. The lower lathing acts as an additional fastening.

The thickness of the insulation in the main territory of the country will be in the range of 150-200 mm

It is important to remember that the height rafter legs cannot be taken less than the thickness of the insulation layer. In the case of foam, the device of an air ventilated space is not necessary

To protect structures and foam from negative internal and external influences, the following materials are used:

vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
wind protection.

As the second and third layers, modern moisture-windproof membranes can be used, which are mounted outside of a relatively heat-shielding material.

The main characteristics and properties of foam
Recommendations for building insulation outside

Styrofoam is construction material, with which buildings are insulated.

Polyfoam is used in all areas of construction and is used for indoor and outdoor work. The material is in demand in the construction market.

Due to the high air content, the foam sheets have high thermal insulation properties.

To make foam, you need to use a fairly large amount of different raw materials, which will differ in density and strength.

The main properties of foam should be highlighted:

safety. The material is manufactured, used and disposed of without harming the health of others. Evidence of the safety of foam is the fact that it is used not only as a building material for insulation, but also as packaging for vegetables and fruits, children's toys, etc .;
good thermal insulation. Keeps warm not only in dry weather, but also in humid conditions and at low temperatures;
high level of sound insulation. Prevents the entry of desired sounds;
moisture resistance. If PSB-S sheets are placed under water, then the material will absorb only a few percent of its volume. Therefore, it is recommended to use polystyrene not only for insulating frame houses, but also for insulating the foundation. After all, when such a plate comes into contact with the ground, absolutely nothing will happen to it, only the basement will be better insulated;
one of the main properties of expanded polystyrene is high resistance to stress;
durability. The material is not subject to decay, spread on the surface of various bacteria, fungi and mold;
easy to use. Due to the fact that polystyrene foam sheets are very light, they can be cut to any size and lifted to any height;
hypoallergenic;
resistance to the influence of external factors (temperature extremes, fungal infection or the appearance of mold), to various chemicals, for example: sea water, soap, alcohol, water-soluble paints and much more.

The only downside to styrofoam is the love for the material of rodents and termites. If this problem occurs on the site, then it is better to use other materials: cement, stone, concrete, sand.

Wall insulation

Most often, the surface of the walls between the racks and the cladding on both sides is insulated with foam in a frame house. This is done as follows.

Pre-cleaning and sealing

Foam insulation of a frame house always begins with processing the frame itself. If this is not done, then even the most careful laying of the heat-insulating material will not help to avoid thermal losses through the air channels remaining at the junction.

Despite the fact that the technology of foam insulation assumes a high speed of processing even large areas as one of its main advantages, the preliminary steps must be performed very carefully.

All bumps, nails and other sharp protruding objects must be removed. The existing gaps and slots must be filled with polyurethane foam. If during the construction phase the wood was exposed to moisture, we treat the damp places with a construction hairdryer.

As a result, the frame should be a dry, even and airtight structure, ready for laying the insulation.

Waterproofing

The waterproofing layer is laid on the outside of the walls and protects them from moisture and wind. Many experts argue that foam does not absorb moisture at all, so you can insulate a house with it without external insulation. However, dampness and moisture that penetrates into the frame at negative temperatures can freeze and destroy the insulation material and walls.

Usually used as waterproofing:

glassine;
plastic wrap;
modern membrane coatings.

The waterproofing material must be laid with one row overlapping another (about 10 cm) and glued with a special tape.

Styrofoam laying

Insulation sheets are laid in the opening between the frame posts and fixed in it:

If the inner or outer surface of the walls is already ready, the foam is attached to it with an impregnation pre-treated with an adhesive. This is done to avoid air gaps. For additional fastening of the insulation, you can use plastic dowels.
If the walls of the frame house will be mounted after insulation, then the foam is attached to self-tapping screws through inner part racks and additionally fixed with twine attached to the frame.

In order to insulate a frame-panel house with maximum quality, it is better to use three layers of polystyrene with a thickness of 5 cm each, stacking them on top of each other and overlapping the joints in the previous one with the next layer. The joints of the plates inside one layer must be coated with professional frost-resistant polyurethane foam.

One of the most important parameters that must be ensured when insulating walls with foam is the size of the gaps between the plates. The fact is that in a frame house insulation it undergoes expansion and contraction when the outside temperature changes. The correct positioning of the slabs will prevent them from warping during expansion and affecting the outer skin.

For more information about laying insulation during heat treatment of walls, see the video:

Vapor barrier and wall cladding

A vapor barrier film is laid on the inside of the walls. It protects the insulation layer from excessive moisture due to the formation of condensation. Most often, foil materials (penofol) or special membrane films are used for these purposes.

Please note - all seams must be foamed.

The outer sheathing can be installed directly over the waterproofing. A ventilated facade is not required in case of foam insulation. Interior decoration it is carried out in the same way, if necessary, preliminary plastering of the surface, use a reinforcing mesh.

Alternative floor insulation options

For many years, expanded clay has been one of the basic means for insulating foundations in a house. This material is used in buildings of a wide variety of structures. Although it has certain disadvantages, positive traits its significant. Sometimes the time tested becomes much more reliable than modern and latest materials.

The double floor construction is a classic technology of base insulation that has survived to this day. A lot of people insulate their own frame houses using a system of clean and rough floors with an air layer between them. Today, the concept of a double floor is reduced to the use of a laminate system on a substrate. This makes it possible to maintain the temperature of the base in the house at a very high level.

It is possible to use the construction of water or electric heating as floor insulation in a frame house. In this option, you will need a separate material for insulation. However, such warm floors are primarily a way to heat the indoor air in a building. Floor insulation will already be an additional, and not the primary purpose of the above system.

If you need to insulate the erected bases, you can use gypsum fiber boards. This material is a modern product for complex applications. He has quite good characteristics for heat and noise insulation. In this regard, this tool can be used as an additional heating of the bases. The newest system in the organization of warming the bases in the house - self-leveling floors. The use of a leveling warm mixture makes it possible to reduce the level of heat loss through the base by 15%. There is good vapor permeability, sound insulation, environmental friendliness and fire safety of these materials.

Currently, siding is used for wall decoration outside with quite often. Before the siding is installed, the frame should be insulated with foam.

Thermal insulation with extruded Penoplex or mineral wool endows the frame house with a number of advantageous features.

1 The advantages of frame structures

When insulating frame frames with polystyrene foam, on top of which siding will be mounted, a frame-type house significantly improves its performance. This improves:

Thermal insulation characteristics;
Noise isolation;
Water vapor permeability;
Performance indicators.

Based on the fact that it performs a number of protective functions for such a heat insulator as Penoplex, it can be assumed that insulating a frame house with foam outside or inside would be a rational solution.

The technology allows, as an alternative to polystyrene, not to consider and further use extruded polystyrene foam for insulating the walls of a frame house from the outside and from the inside.

For the same purpose, you can use mineral wool or Penoplex. Siding will be able to press the insulation from the inside to the surface of the walls with the necessary degree of accuracy.

To insulate a frame house from the inside with mineral wool, in order to subsequently place siding on the outer surface of the walls, you need to take into account certain rules and recommendations.

In addition, siding provides a reliable level of protection for the walls and thermal insulation layer. Currently, frame structures are highly popular among most private homeowners, the construction of such a house is quite economical and profitable.

The structure itself is quite simple, it consists of an installed foundation and a frame placed on it, made using wood.

Next, the installed frame is sheathed with plywood or OSB boards (similar). It is worth noting that the cost of wood materials used in the construction of frame houses is much lower than alternative counterparts.

In addition, an already built frame-type house in terms of cost is significantly lower than the same structure erected with the use of stone or brick.

It takes only 14 days to build the walls of such a building. After that, the walls are finished from the inside. The whole structure weighs very little, which in no way affects the strength characteristics.

This also contributes to a low load on the entire foundation structure of the building. All this suggests that frame-type houses are reliably protected from sudden subsidence of the foundations, which can lead to the formation of splits and cracks.

2 Features of materials and technology of insulation

The process of building and further warming a frame house is not associated with any technological difficulties.

Based on this, it should be concluded that it will be quite easy to fix the siding and carry out the subsequent strengthening of the walls.

When assembling the frame of such a building, in most cases, a wooden beam is used, which subsequently forms the walls of the future house as during installation.

In most cases, such a building is sheathed from the inside with clapboard, after which work begins, directly related to insulation.

First, the surface of the walls is sheathed with a sheet of thick plywood. This happens indoors.

At the end of these works, they begin the process of warming that part of the building, which is called the facade. When implementing such a campaign, additional niches may appear in some walls, which are created due to the fact that a rack bar is used during construction.

Further, all such niches are subjected to foam insulation. The interior surfaces are finished first of all, since this is a necessary preliminary stage associated with the process of insulating the front side of the building.

Without this, it is strictly forbidden to continue further work (including the installation of siding). When sheathing the inner frame, the owner already receives ready-made solution in order to lay the insulation.

Before implementing this type of work, it is worth taking into account that the wall insulation scheme for a frame house consists of a number of elements. They are presented in the form:

Load-bearing wall;
Lathing;
Thermal insulation layer;
Air gap;
Membranes;
Siding.

Polyfoam is presented in the form of an environmentally friendly and harmless material. This insulation is characterized by ease of installation, it can be cut very easily.

At the same time, the foam plastic is distinguished by a high degree of ease of use. The presented insulation has a porous structure, which is formed from a large number cells independent of each other.

Expanded polystyrene has a low specific gravity and is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, mechanical strength and high fire resistance parameters.

Polyfoam is one of the highest quality thermal insulation materials. It perfectly combines the parameters of price and quality.

Plates of extruded polystyrene foam have high strength characteristics and are distinguished by a dense closed cell structure.

All boards are produced with an orientation to the extrusion method, and at the final stage of production, a special foaming agent is added to the melted polystyrene.

It is worth noting that extruded polystyrene foam is distinguished by an underestimated coefficient of thermal conductivity. This material is not capable of absorbing moisture and has increased compressive strength.

During production, special composite materials are used, which are located in the zone high pressure... The use of flame retardant additives, dyes and all kinds of foaming additives, which are needed for the formation of gas in the internal structure, is relevant.

You can start installing siding at almost any time of the year. When installing siding, you need to pay attention to the air temperature, it should not fall below -10 degrees Celsius.

This is due to the fact that when the temperature drops, vinyl can easily crack during installation work.

All stages of work related to the insulation of the facade of a frame house are carried out in parallel with the installation of the battens on a brick or stone wall.

The batten layer helps to hide obvious imperfections or irregularities in the wall surface. In order for the insulation to be securely fixed on the outer surface of the wall, first of all, it is necessary to assemble the lathing, which is presented in the form of a frame.

The frame structure itself can be made using timber beams or galvanized metal profiles. Metal crate, unlike wooden crate, will last much longer.

Did you like the article? Share it

Print article