What kind of insulation to choose for frame walls. Correct insulation of a frame house

For year-round operation frame house and its durable service requires high-quality insulation. You need to insulate everything - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable for solving the problem, and what heat insulators are better to refuse? We will answer these questions and give you step-by-step instructions on how to insulate a house with your own hands.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The frames of houses built using the "Canadian" technology are assembled from OSB or wood. In order for the insulation not to cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability - not less than 0.32 Mg.

Fibrous heat insulators - mineral wool materials - absolutely meet this requirement. Popular synthetic insulation materials, such as polystyrene and polymer-based analogs, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:

Firstly, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). As a result, the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
Secondly, polystyrene and its analogs do not allow the tree to "breathe". This leads to the accumulation of moisture, the appearance of mold and rotting of the structural elements.

When choosing how to insulate a frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, additional properties of a heat insulator should be taken into account. The following indicators are welcomed:

fire safety;
environmental friendliness;
low thermal conductivity;
shrinkage resistance;
minimal water absorption.

Choosing the optimal insulation

Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for insulating a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine the basic characteristics and scope. The general advantages of all types of mineral wool include: light weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.

The main disadvantage of fiber insulators- hygroscopicity. To preserve the properties of the insulation, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Basalt wool - environmental friendliness and fire resistance

The main component of the insulation is rocks of volcanic origin: basalite, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is a completely non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 ° C. The heat insulator retains its physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of basalt-based mineral wool:

low thermal conductivity - 0.36-0.42 W / m * C;
resistance to mechanical stress;
good noise insulation characteristics;
resistance to temperature fluctuations.

The composition of the insulation includes hydrophobic additives that provide quick moisture removal. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50kg / cu. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool in comparison with fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.

Glass wool - elasticity and moisture resistance

The basic components of a heat insulator are glass breakage and sand. The addition of binders makes it possible to form rolls from the finest fiberglass. Approximate dimensions of mats: thickness - 100 mm, width - 1200 mm, length - 10 m.

Features of glass wool:

high elasticity - the material easily assumes and quickly restores the given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
vibration resistance;
not susceptible to mold formation and unattractive to rodents.

Like rock wool, fiberglass is fire resistant. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:

Unsafe material - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and a lot of "glass" dust is emitted during cutting.
Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of cold bridges formation increases.

Ecowool - versatility

A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microorganisms and reduce flammability.

Distinctive features of ecowool:

Ecowool is a loose insulation, and therefore the technology of its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a heat-insulating layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
With poor-quality insulation of the walls of a frame house, there is risk of shrinkage of ecowool, which is fraught with the formation of non-insulated zones.
The material is not recommended for use near open sources of fire, chimneys and chimneys. A protective layer of basalt foil-clad refractory mats or a fencing made of asbestos-cement slabs is required.

The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the possibility of insulating hard-to-reach places and high soundproofing qualities.

"Warm wood" - an alternative to mineral wool

This group is represented by mats and boards made of wood-fiber materials... The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation are at a fairly high level:

good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when moisture is absorbed in the amount of 20% of its own weight;
high strength and excellent sound insulation - protection against impact and "air" noise;
sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the frame racks without additional clamps;
environmental friendliness of the material and safety of installation work.

Wood-fiber insulation "breathes" and helps maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and flammability.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step by step instructions

In most cases, for the insulation of frame structures, it is used mineral wool in the form of mats... Therefore, the subsequent instruction will be based on the work with this particular material.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you should understand the structure of the insulating cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for laying. It doesn't matter which side to start work - from the outside or from the inside. Some people think that it is more convenient to perform thermal insulation from the side of the street. However, weather factors must be taken into account.

Standard structure of a thermal insulation cake with the sequence of layers from the inner cladding to the facade of the house:

Interior decoration.
OSB board.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation layer.
Windproof membrane.
Lathing made of bars for arranging the ventilation gap.
OSB board.
External cladding.

Recommended the step of frame beams is 580-590 mm. This range is optimal when using standard 60 cm wide mineral wool mats. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for a temperate climate is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two standard sizes: 50 and 100 mm.

Surface preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, removing protruding nails and blowing out cracks polyurethane foam between the elements of the frame. Before fixing the insulation, it is necessary to check the wooden structures for dampness, dry problem areas with a construction hairdryer.

Interior decoration: order of layers

First you need to prepare a base for laying insulation. WITH inside at home this role will be performed vapor barrier film and OSB boards.

Procedure:

Roll out a roll of insulating material and cut it to fit the walls of the house.
Fix the vapor barrier canvases one by one to the vertical racks of the frame using a stapler. Installation rules: the insulating strips are directed perpendicular to the wooden beams, the minimum overlap is 10 cm.
Check the tightness of the protective layer.
Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
Fix the panels to the frame, overlapping the vapor barrier foil.

In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying finishing walls.

Insulation installation rules

An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of fastening with your own hands. Both heat insulators are resilient enough, so they do not need additional fixation. The slabs are inserted between the frame posts and are held in place due to the slight difference in dimensions.

So that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its effectiveness over time, it is necessary to follow certain rules for its installation:

Laying is done in two layers, the slabs are staggered. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the joining seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of "cold bridges" that contribute to the accumulation of condensation and moisture.
Insulation boards need protection from strong wind and precipitation. By analogy with inner wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.

The film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For a more secure attachment, you can use the counter-crate system.

Exterior wall cladding

Bars attached to the top of the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the thermal insulation material and the exterior trim. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.

Under and siding different types slabs of moisture-resistant OSB are nailed to the crate, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, natural stone or façade tiles are laid directly on oriented strand boards.

Thermal insulation of the roof of the house

High-quality roof insulation is of great importance in preserving heat. Thought-out and competently executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular option for insulation is the placement of mineral wool between the rafter legs. The roofing cake must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.

Let us describe sequentially, how to properly insulate the roof:

Pull a water-repellent diffusion film along the outer end of the rafters. Secure the membrane with a counter batten.
From the inside rafter system lay insulation. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation scheme is a checkerboard layout.
Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing the horizontal laying of the vapor barrier in the direction from bottom to top. The overlap of the film insulation is 5-10 cm.
Sheathe the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
External roofing is carried out using counter battens. Sheathing beams are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards are attached on top or directly roofing material(slate, corrugated board, metal or flexible tiles).

Insulation of the floor of the first floor

A lot of heat also goes through the base of the house - about 15-20% of the heat costs are on the floor. Alternatively, you can organize underfloor water heating. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.

Fasten the canvases together with reinforcing tape, walking along the joining lines.

Install a log system of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Cut the insulation under the cells in the logs. The size of the heat insulator should exceed the distance between the boards by 1-2 cm - this gap is necessary for tight joining and eliminating gaps. Insulation thickness - at least 200 mm.

Cover with a vapor barrier film, and lay plywood or a fine plank floor on top.

The described technology is suitable for insulating interfloor or attic floor.

A variety of methods for using ecowool

The second most popular material for thermal insulation of frame buildings is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. The mechanized backfill will provide the required density and uniformity of the paving.
There are three methods of using ecowool:

dry spray;
wet application;
glue method.

Dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling intermediate floors and non-separable structures. The density of ecowool laying with this method is 45-65 kg / cubic meter. m depending on the slope.

Wet technology suitable for vertical open walls... Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied to the surface under pressure. The density of the insulating layer is about 65 kg / cubic meter. m.

The glue method is similar to the previous one, but an adhesive component is added instead of water. The advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The glue method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, the option is also suitable for processing walls.

The issue of house insulation must be considered even at the construction stage. It is more profitable from a financial point of view and technically more correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to overhaul the building after commissioning.

DIY video instruction on thermal insulation

More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.

They are collected in a fairly short time, using the minimum labor resources... However, for all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not make high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection building materials for insulation frame houses... Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

The first includes natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam, basalt, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast such qualities as:

good moisture resistance;
low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
no shrinkage and long service life;
easy to use;
safety for humans.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-proven method. The material has excellent sound absorption, retains heat well, and also has a high environmental friendliness class.

Insulation of walls from the inside and outside

There is no particular difference where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside, there is no. Here as it is more convenient to whom. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation is 600 mm wide. Therefore, when erecting the frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the uprights, the ideal spacing between them is 580-590 mm. This distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established standards, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it will be advisable to use slabs with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the structure, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also the material is 100 mm. less prone to deflections and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening of vapor barrier and OSB boards

In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this, from the inside, the wooden walls of the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a regular stapler, we roll out the roll in horizontal strips and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm... to the uprights. Make sure that the film is tightly adhered to the surface everywhere;
Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB plates, which will be the base under interior decoration... Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, cutting them off with an electric jigsaw if necessary.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite resilient, so no additional method of fastening is required to fix it, it is enough just to insert it between the posts. The plates must be held tightly there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contributes to the appearance of condensation and dampness on the inner surface of the finish, as a result of which mold and mildew may appear.

After all the plates are installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. For this, by analogy with the internal walls, the external walls are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is hydro windproof membrane, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and rain drops. For a secure connection of the membrane, fix it to the uprights with a counter crate.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for the finishing, it is necessary to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block of house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-lathing, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Insulation scheme in section

In the event that the walls will be sheathed with any other finishing material ( facade tiles, artificial or natural stone etc.), it is unnecessary to nail guide bars to OSB plates, walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces heat loss at home by 25-30 % , therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with full responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate the roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last a long time, the roofing cake must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and looks like this:

From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
Further, from the inside, in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation plates are laid. Pay special attention to the places of the gables and the ridge part of the roof;
The insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes overlapping from bottom to top 5 cm.;
The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (clapboard, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where the leak comes from 15-20% so precious in our time warmth. You can, of course, fork out and install a system in the house, especially since nowadays there is enough for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

Do not even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then on it he will take his first steps in life. Spending time on yoga and reading interesting books will be fun in addition to benefits.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the rough floor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
Between the lag for the floor, insulation is laid (thickness not less 200 mm.). To exclude the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation should exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

Overlapped insulation on top 5-10 cm... covered with a vapor barrier carpet;
Further, depending on floor covering, the floor is covered with sheets of plywood, or a finishing board is laid.

Conclusion

There are many different modern materials, which are suitable for the insulation of houses built on frame technology... However, numerous positive reviews owners show that there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for insulating a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that a quiet life in the house depends on the choice of the correct version of it and on the literacy of the work.

Why do you need it?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, by the beginning of the season to have a full-fledged house. Moreover, such structures:

environmentally friendly;
are inexpensive;
serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be rather difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

Buildings for permanent use should have a solid thermal protection by default.
If it is planned to be there only from late spring to late autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

For the "frame" designed for the summer period, the thickness of the walls is no more than 70 mm. In the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either have to freeze or waste a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter residence not the entire volume of the frame will have to be insulated, but only its individual parts, first of all:

stingrays;
cellars;
attic planes;
basement structures.

It will not work to do just one warm floor, even if its power is excessive. Through the basements external walls and other parts of the structure of the panel house, the heat will flow away all the same cheerfully. Given the variety of conditions where heaters will be installed, give a universal answer about the best option it is forbidden. The basement walls are equipped with some types of thermal protection, the load-bearing walls - with others, the overlap of the cold attic - with the third. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name suggests, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. This solution allows you to reliably close the existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer outdoor insulation- because it does not take away precious internal space, which is always lacking in summer cottages and in rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, special attention should be paid to preventing heat escape through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; now you can figure out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What is it worth to insulate?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; the standard technology is to use only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that "one is put in, the other is untwisted." Technologists know about the differences in nominal thickness. Usually increasing the layer thickness will increase the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is flawless in itself can be applied incorrectly, and this immediately devalues all the advantages. Therefore, it is better either to turn to professionals, or to study the smallest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The overwhelming majority of amateur builders and official firms use the "brilliant four":

mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene;
mineral slabs;
isolone.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and loose substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly ram the layer to be laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Plated materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their "pitfalls".

So, it is pointless to use pure mineral wool for external wall insulation: it will not hold well, and it will retain its thermal qualities only until the first rain or snow. A prerequisite successful attachment to a special structure of bars packed vertically. Each timber is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs will pass. You should also take care of external protection from getting wet.

When working, it is important to wear respiratory protection, wear special goggles and do not remove gloves.

Polyfoam is a substance of organic nature. His undoubted advantages are:

low specific gravity;
protection of walls from strong winds;
exclusion of decay.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, finish the walls with foam that has not passed special treatment, it is forbidden.

Mineral wool is absolutely non-flammable. A similar advantage can be obtained when using basalt wool, but it also has a significant plus - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

Many people call the use of penoizol an ideal solution.

But it also has weak points - after a few years, areas will form where the material will not adhere tightly. Therefore, the loss of heat will increase dramatically. The liquid version of the coating is characterized by more powerful adhesion and lasts 50-60 years (for this period a guarantee is given). The disadvantage is also, however, obvious - without special equipment you won't succeed. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for keeping heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal insulation of walls of frame buildings with roll materials is impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be done very carefully. It is helpful to keep this in mind whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Frame structures are rarely insulated with expanded clay, and such a choice does not justify even its low cost. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if he has already absorbed the liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum density in dry form, it presses on the walls, the foundation is very strong. This circumstance will have to be taken into account in external finishing, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene. Therefore, it is imperative to use layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Thermal insulation with stone wool is also a solid competitor to this material. Working with her stoves is a pleasure, there is no need for complicated tools. Cutting into the desired fragments is done with a knife or saw with fine teeth.

For your information: stone wool blocks must not be squeezed, rammed or squeezed. This will definitely lead to negative consequences... It is also necessary to use ecowool wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological cotton wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with brown and boric acid, the level fire hazard will drop sharply. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by weight) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores its functionality. Such advantages as an optimal microclimate, suppression of extraneous sounds, absence of seams and sanitary safety will also be attractive to people. Concerning possible problems, they are as follows:

you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfill in order to guarantee thermal protection;
you will definitely need specialized equipment;
if the fastening control was of poor quality, the material may settle;
ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulation of frame houses with sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it extremely primitive, as modern people often do. Careful consideration of the features of the material allows you to profitably embody it positive features and weaken the negative. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is its natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. It is only necessary to deal with the risk of ignition and with the settlement of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help to solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places, high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Sawdust is usually taken on the rough insulating layer. large fraction, and the retention of heat is mainly provided by the finer substance. When buying or self-procurement, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material, the quality of heat protection depends on it.

Adherents of modern materials and the latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is widely used when working on floors, including:

over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
under the ceilings of attics;
to enhance the acoustic protection of structures dividing the floors of the house.

Usually, on the floors of frame houses, expanded polystyrene is placed in the intervals of the lags; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced cement and sand screed. The disadvantage of the material (easily removable, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - to prevent such a development of events, gaps are needed. It is important to remember about the flammability of this synthetic substance, it should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it on mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-thought-out ventilation must be provided in the frame house.

Fresh air is always supplied from the utility rooms, and the overflow is carried out under the doors dividing the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but also a uniform distribution of heat in the dwelling cannot be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, they come to the rescue:

special channels for overflow;
gratings through the wall;
separate channels for the passage of air into a specific room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer is, the more stable it usually keeps heat. That's why the density of the structure should be given priority attention, it is much more important than a big name or whole line certificates. The only particularly lightweight material that deserves attention is expanded polystyrene (including its modification such as polystyrene foam). Even mineral wool is already just a light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a variety of conditions and situations.

If you need the strongest possible cold blocking (in living rooms and on the floor), the heaviest version is required. For a non-residential attic, the bar is lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cu. m. wadded insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively weak load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

The P-125 brand is already more worthy, it can be used in different procedures:

sheathing of ceilings and floors;
thermal insulation of walls;
heat protection of partitions;
suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool of the PZh-175 category has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent, it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the most dense material is recommended to be used in the upper parts of the walls. Under the plaster, experts advise taking cotton with a specific gravity of 140-160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Requirements for heaters used in indoor areas frame house.

When the dwelling is covered pitched roof, the optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, and if it is planned to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times the minimum value for mineral wool under flat roof, and for expanded polystyrene it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In the floors, loose insulation is allowed to be used only when laying in the intervals of the logs. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will negatively affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; mistakes in the selection of insulation can interfere with the achievement of this goal. More recently, to meet ecologically safe way thermal protection was possible only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more affordable. The first place is quite predictably taken by the fibers of natural raw materials:

woody;
linen;
hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for the individual components to penetrate into the external space. In an ecologically clean house, there is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool. Fragments of glass and stone fibers, tiny in size, cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause harm to health on a very large scale.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection is, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic processing of a number of materials - where it is really needed.

Fire retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely harmless. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always the preservation of the integrity of the insulating "pie" from which one or another substance cannot escape normally. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and still quite normal, based on data obtained from medical research in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming more and more in demand in frame construction. 1 cubic meter m of such material costs about 3 thousand rubles, and it will last from 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our turbulent era, such insulation is able to reduce the penetration of radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is unclear how the peat blocks will behave in different conditions many years later.

Cork structures can be easily installed under wallpaper, on interior walls and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Manufacturers overview

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only different kinds insulation materials, but also professionalism, conscientiousness of individual firms.

Attention: it should be borne in mind that we will only talk about the really best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies fireproof stone wool insulation to the market. At the same time, it focuses on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use such mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

pipes;
front walls;
room partitions;
roofing structures;
areas experiencing intense stress.

It takes 100 mm of such a slab to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

French corporation "Isover" sells to its consumers glass wool in roll, slab or matte configuration. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also meets the necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that can be easily installed even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which in production uses a much smaller amount of phenol, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

plates of moderate hardness;
products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
high density hydrophobic constructions;
products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of what specific substance is used, it is required to carefully calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you miscalculate with this indicator, you get either an insufficient effect, or excessively high costs for the purchase of thermal protection and for working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers who are left without supervision, making sure that no one checks them, will sooner or later "make a mistake" in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by such indicators as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat dissipation - but its disadvantages prevent widespread use of this material. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a particular area. Thus, in Moscow and its environs, the recommended layer of the majority good insulation does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use so many of them in the Far North, the result will be disastrous for the residents.

A standard formula of the form δt = (R - 0.16 - δ1 / λ1 - δ2 / λ2 - δi / λi) × λout has the following components (sequentially):

heat resistance of structures in a specific area;
total thickness of all layers;
coefficient of thermal conductivity;
the ability of the insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation is selected, the calculations are made, it's time to get ready for work properly. Be sure to choose necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the slightest nuances.

With the dry version of insulation, the "raw material" can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal constructions the frame being created. It is also useful to choose decorative materials that are consistent with the material, waterproofing films, membranes, vapor barriers.
The "wet" scheme is realized with water-based adhesives.

Typical wall and roof insulation tools include:

screwdriver;
guns for applying polyurethane foam;
hammers;
jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
puncher;

spatulas;
hydraulic levels;
roulette;
scissors for metal;
containers for the preparation of solutions and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it strongly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, you should try to get high quality tools and supplies. All accessories purchased specifically or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark the exact right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Of all the hammers, the locksmith type is best suited.

It is suitable for all kinds of surfaces. On the one hand, such a tool is even and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is sharpened, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nailer. It is possible to divide foam plastic and other insulating, decorative elements into parts using saws with a fine tooth. The teeth must be specially set and sharpened in a special way.

For the preparation of building mixtures, only mixers with a spiral working part made of strong steel grades are quite suitable. With the help of rollers, it is easy to apply primers and a variety of paints, even on very rough or rough surfaces. In order to apply the adhesive solution for the subsequent introduction of the reinforcement mesh, it is recommended to use a Swiss ironing tool with teeth. The optimum tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm and is determined by the façade system manufacturer.

Self cover

Step-by-step instruction in any case, it requires the installation of a layer that protects against moisture. The only exception is made for situations where such protection is already outside (or inside). The reason is simple - the two-way locking of the water deprives it of its outlet. Liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually erode them.

The first step is usually to measure the outer surfaces and cut the waterproofing material according to their size.

This is followed by work with a vapor barrier. It will not be possible to bypass this point even in the case when hydrophobic or neutral substances that transfer contact with water are used for insulation. Indeed, in addition to them, the "pie" includes other details that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it will be correct to use a special film or foamed polyethylene to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the racks of the frames, providing the most tight pressure to the insulation.

Important: wrapping the thermal protection blocks in a film is a violation of the standard scheme - until all the components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished, they start working with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is to sew up the walls from the inside. Out of competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented particle boards. GKL is recommended to be installed if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, due to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only preparation for a real finish.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to get the most recent and adequate information on all problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width should be frame board in a particular case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand security measures and storage mode, transportation of each insulation coating is better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when fixing structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the "pie". But communication with knowledgeable people helps to correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, care is taken to prevent condensation from entering from warm rooms. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many "pitfalls". The choice of material for cladding is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - and yet, a well-thought-out design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural insulation, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is also very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: here again master classes help.

For information on which insulation keeps heat better, see the next video.

The old system for the construction of wooden and stone houses provided for a system of insulation during the construction process. Warming did not stand out as a separate area of work, it was carried out along with the construction of the walls and was a matter of course. Now the concern about how to properly insulate a frame house is the main concern for builders.

The order of work on insulation

The building materials market does not suffer from a lack of insulation for walls, floors and ceilings. Each owner wants to choose something extraordinary, but natural and not harmful to health, to be thorough, long-lasting and inexpensive. The intensity of heat exchange greatly affects not only your health, mood and warmth in the house, but also the state of your wallet, since heating services are becoming more and more important. Therefore, most often you have to insulate a frame house with your own hands.

Insulation is an inevitable process of any construction, the need to insulate floors and ceilings is caused by their very structural feature.

This part of the work requires as much attention to itself as the construction of the frame itself. can be produced using various technologies:

on outside wall, attic and subfloor;
on the inside of the walls and on the ceiling;
both outside and inside the house;
uneven insulation of different parts of the building.

At the same time, there are various methods of work, when using which the walls retain maximum heat in the frame house.

If the builders did not carry out the work on the insulation clearly enough, they will have to roll up their sleeves and finish, redo, bring the insulation "to mind", starting from the walls and ending with the underground, or even again with our own hands. At the same time, it is important to systematically, purposefully and carefully insulate all of the above areas. The ceiling is subject to more dense insulation, and the layer of insulation should be significantly larger than on the walls - by 25-50%. Close attention should be paid to both external and internal wall insulation; floor insulation should not be ignored either.

Back to the table of contents

Types of heaters for a frame house

Of some design features or wall insulation is not difficult even for a layman. The only difficulty is the choice of insulation. Heaters are available in two categories - on a synthetic basis and on the basis of natural ingredients. The most commonly used insulation materials for frame houses:

expanded polystyrene;
Styrofoam;
ecowool;
mineral wool.

which is subdivided according to the material of manufacture into:

glass;
slag;
stone.

In expanded polystyrene there is an aluminum layer, which significantly improves its thermal insulation. The foil gives it, in addition to increased thermal insulation qualities, also moisture and steam resistance. This technology allows you to reduce the thickness of the insulation, while maintaining the same properties. It is produced in sheet and roll form. For wall decals, it can be produced with a self-adhesive surface.

The main disadvantage of foam, if outside, is the negative influence of sunlight, leading to its destruction. This insulation needs protection when used outdoors. This protection can be paint or plaster. Its advantages include a wide choice of material thickness, fire resistance and environmental safety.

Mineral wool gained its popularity due to not only good thermal insulation properties, but also excellent fire resistance and excellent noise absorption. This material does not shrink over time. Available in rolls and in sheet format.

Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers. Valuable for environmental friendliness. In dry form, it is rammed into the walls, and moistened with water is applied to the interframe gaps of the walls. The possibility of glass wool is used extremely rarely due to a number of serious disadvantages. These include the fragility of fibers, which results in the formation of glass dust, which negatively affects health throughout the entire period of operation. This type of insulation is prone to shrinkage.

Back to the table of contents

Pitfalls during insulation

Mineral wool, made on the basis of slags, when moisture gets in, becomes aggressive towards metals, and it has a very low level of heat conservation. Wool, the production of which is based on basalt, stone wool is an excellent opportunity to insulate frame walls. Environmentally friendly, durable, possessing both good insulating qualities in terms of thermal conductivity and vapor permeability, and excellent fire-fighting properties.

However, if there are good insulation materials on the market, the desire still runs into problems. They consist in the difference between the vapor, moisture and heat permeability of the insulation. Polyfoam, for example, has good moisture resistance, but its heat resistance leaves much to be desired, and mineral wool, on the contrary, has problems with moisture protection. That is, it is necessary to insulate the frame walls after distributing the insulation according to the degree of resistance to various environments.

The use of mineral wool should be limited when insulating the house from the outside or provide protection from moisture, otherwise the heat insulator can become a conductor of heat. But on the other hand, a frame house must have air exchange with the outside environment. Natural heat insulators are good in this regard, such as:

clay;
tyrsa;
straw.

They carry out natural heat exchange, maintain an optimal humidity regime in the room, and provide protection against noise. Being used as a heater on, they clearly fulfill their functions predetermined by nature itself. But working with them is a long and laborious process, unacceptable for our high-speed century.

To prevent the appearance of excess moisture and steam, as well as to effectively collect them, glassine is used. This long-standing companion of wall insulation is mounted inside the outer skin of the frame. It allows you to leave dry insulation, which performs the main function - heat retention. At the same time, a gap must be left between it and the insulation to allow the glassine to dry out and prevent the insulation from getting wet. The air gap, in addition, in itself will be a natural thermal protection, complementing the main insulation and creating a healthy microclimate in the house.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (foundation laying, wall erection, roof construction, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobby: mobile communication, high tech, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client undertook the independent construction of this building, but in the process of work he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think any novice builder can face a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to insulate the facade, floor and attic of a country cottage built using frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the thermal insulation layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, but in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which sets out the features of the two mentioned options. Having studied it, you can independently make an informed decision.

Outdoor	Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation cake will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, therefore, during the construction works the interior of the rooms does not suffer.	With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishing of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform the finishing from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the point of moisture condensation inside the wall, as a result of which the enclosing structure is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
A wooden wall in direct contact with warm air in the room accumulates thermal energy, and when the air temperature drops outside, it gives it away, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall undergoes numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, you can only resort to internal thermal insulation when insulating a very old house: the installed insulating material from the inside will avoid dismantling the external finish, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. Several times I have come across situations where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter cold. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better to perform the thermal insulation of a frame house outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics wooden house, built according to frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds hazardous to humans into the air, even if it heats up during operation.
The material must have fire-fighting properties - it will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also advisable to select insulation that does not emit during a fire a large number smoke, making it difficult to evacuate people.
It is better to select insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average cross-section of the timber usually used to construct the frame).
Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame should fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
Ease of installation. To simplify the process of erecting a frame house, you need to buy insulation that is easily installed inside frame walls without the use of sophisticated engineering equipment.

Another factor is price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and operational properties.

In my opinion, the closest thing to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers made of minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The thermal conductivity coefficient λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K), depending on the density of the material. Thermal calculations show that for central Russia an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of cotton wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and formaldehyde resins, which are used to bond the mats, have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
Light weight	After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional stress on the enclosing structures, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats of a suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without the need for additional lathing, accessories and the use of "wet" construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for my work.

And if you're wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, see the related article in this blog, which details the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate a house both outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and after all, we have decided that it will be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

OSB slabs for internal and external cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
wooden beams 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and decorative trim;
hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and destroyed by the air flow, but does not prevent the accumulated moisture from being removed from the thermal insulation layer;
internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of the heating devices;
block house, with the help of which the external decorative finishing of frame walls will be made;
eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surface of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on which tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I'm telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but inner lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in the following sequence:

I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden by facing materials, therefore, pollution can negatively affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

I carry out repair of damaged frame parts. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I was insulating the new house during the construction process. But if you find areas of the timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the thermal insulation material.

I install engineering communications. If hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before sewing the walls with decorative material. There are several features that I want to mention:

All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
During installation water pipes there should be no detachable connections inside the wall, which over time can weaken and leak.

I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal compound (for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and mildew on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the wood fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - interior cladding

For the interior cladding, I will use OSB boards and a vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer made of sanded aluminum foil... The work is done in the following sequence:

The frame of the house is sheathed from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulation material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
- The glued fibrous sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to the preliminary drawings.
- Parts must be sized so that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. We need a gap 2-3 cm thick, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
- Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
- The seams of the cladding should be staggered with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

I install a vapor barrier material. As I already said, its role will be played by penofol - polyethylene foam (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing the heating efficiency):
- The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with a reflective layer outward, and then secured to the panels using a construction stapler or nails with wide heads.
- Rolls of penofol must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
- To seal the seams, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

Installing counterrails. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finishing cladding. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how your decorative material will be fixed (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foamed foam.

I fix the lining on the counter rails. I have already described the very technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I will not dwell in detail. I will only say that it is better to install the lamellas on the clays, thanks to which the change in the size of the euro lining is compensated for during operation.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNicol Technolight Extra slabs are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit snugly between the supporting elements of the frame and hold there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of mineral mats of 5 cm each are sufficient for insulation.

The plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance of 60 cm between the supports. This is exactly the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically unnecessary. As a result, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

I install the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the slabs exactly matches the distance between the frame beams, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them into the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will take its place firmly. Let me draw your attention to a few nuances:

Do not fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw can damage the foam foam layer, which is laid on the surface from the back side.
Trimming the slabs, if necessary, is done using a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
After installing all the plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane glue from a balloon. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

I install the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first so that the lower and upper seams are running. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Do not forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off sharp.

I install insulation in structural elements of complex shapes. It is imperative to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat in the shape of the depression so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, this is not the end of the thermal insulation process. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installing hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymeric vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The essence is as follows:

A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use wide-headed carnations:
- Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
- Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
- Each next canvas should overlap the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.

I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, you should get a completely sealed canvas that protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer cladding and a draft blowing in the ventilation gap (about it just below).
I stuff the counter-lattice slats on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply necessary, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

I fix it on the OSB slats. I already described the technology of their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - finishing

Technology decorative finishing house facades depends on the selected material. In my case, it will be a block house, individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB plates using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, OSB boards can not be used at all, but the lamellas can be attached to a profile fixed to a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat energy losses occur through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly tell you how to insulate this surface:

Hem the ceiling from below with OSB plates. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a heavy load, therefore, it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about the technology of wall insulation.
Screw on the sheathing beams. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
Decorate the ceiling surface with clapboard. It is attached to clamps or self-tapping screws.
Install insulation from the attic side. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB plates).

Step 7 - floors

The last stage of work is do-it-yourself floor insulation. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living space, and the waterproofing is below;
a grooved board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
if it is impossible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read separate material dedicated to thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. How to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

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