Floor insulation technology in a frame house. Floor insulation in a frame house
For year-round operation frame house and its durable service requires high-quality insulation. You need to insulate everything - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable for solving the problem, and what heat insulators are better to refuse? We will answer these questions and give step by step instructions for home insulation with your own hands.
Requirements for thermal insulation material
The frames of houses built according to the "Canadian" technology are assembled from OSB or wood. In order for the insulation not to cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability - not less than 0.32 Mg.
Fibrous heat insulators - mineral wool materials - fully comply with this requirement. Popular synthetic insulation materials, such as polystyrene and polymer-based analogs, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:
- First, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). As a result, the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
- Secondly, polystyrene and its analogs do not allow the tree to "breathe". This leads to accumulation of moisture, mold and decay of structural elements.
When choosing how to insulate a frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, additional properties of a heat insulator should be taken into account. The following indicators are welcomed:
- fire safety;
- environmental friendliness;
- low thermal conductivity;
- shrinkage resistance;
- minimal water absorption.
Choosing the optimal insulation
Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for insulating a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine the basic characteristics and scope. The general advantages of all types of mineral wool include: light weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.
The main disadvantage of fiber insulators- hygroscopicity. To preserve the properties of the insulation, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.
Basalt wool - environmental friendliness and fire resistance
The main component of the insulation is volcanic rocks: basalite, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is a completely non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 ° C. The heat insulator keeps physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of basalt-based mineral wool:
- low thermal conductivity - 0.36-0.42 W / m * C;
- resistance to mechanical stress;
- good noise insulation characteristics;
- resistance to temperature fluctuations.
The composition of the insulation includes hydrophobic additives that provide quick moisture removal. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50kg / cu. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool in comparison with fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.
Glass wool - elasticity and moisture resistance
The basic components of a heat insulator are glass breakage and sand. The addition of binders makes it possible to form rolls from the finest fiberglass. Approximate dimensions of mats: thickness - 100 mm, width - 1200 mm, length - 10 m.
Features of glass wool:
- high elasticity - the material easily assumes and quickly restores the given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
- vibration resistance;
- not susceptible to mold formation and unattractive to rodents.
Like rock wool, fiberglass is fire resistant. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:
- Unsafe material - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and a lot of "glass" dust is emitted during cutting.
- Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of cold bridges formation increases.
Ecowool - versatility
A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microorganisms and reduce flammability.
Distinctive features of ecowool:
- Ecowool is a loose insulation, and therefore the technology of its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a heat-insulating layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
- With poor-quality insulation of the walls of a frame house, there is risk of shrinkage of ecowool, which is fraught with the formation of non-insulated zones.
- The material is not recommended for use near open fire sources, chimneys and chimneys. A protective layer of basalt foil-clad refractory mats or a fence made of asbestos-cement slabs is required.
The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the ability to insulate hard-to-reach places and high soundproofing qualities.
"Warm wood" - an alternative to mineral wool
This group is represented by mats and boards made of wood-fiber materials... The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation are at a fairly high level:
- good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
- preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when moisture is absorbed in the amount of 20% of its own weight;
- high strength and excellent sound insulation - protection against impact and "air" noise;
- sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the frame racks without additional clamps;
- environmental friendliness of the material and safety of installation work.
Wood-fiber insulation "breathes" and helps maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and flammability.
Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step by step instructions
In most cases, for the insulation of frame structures, it is used mineral wool in the form of mats... Therefore, the subsequent instruction will be based on the work with this particular material.
Preparatory activities
First of all, you should understand the structure of the insulating cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for laying. It doesn't matter which side to start the work - from the outside or from the inside. Some people think that it is more convenient to carry out thermal insulation from the side of the street. However, weather factors must be taken into account.
Standard structure of a thermal insulation cake with the sequence of layers from the inner cladding to the facade of the house:
- Interior decoration.
- OSB board.
- Vapor barrier.
- Insulation layer.
- Windproof membrane.
- Lathing made of bars for arranging the ventilation gap.
- OSB board.
- External cladding.
Recommended the step of frame beams is 580-590 mm. This range is optimal when using standard 60 cm wide mineral wool mats. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for a temperate climate is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two standard sizes: 50 and 100 mm.
Surface preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, removing protruding nails and blowing out cracks with polyurethane foam between the frame elements. Before fixing the insulation, it is necessary to check the wooden structures for dampness, dry problem areas with a construction hairdryer.
Interior decoration: order of layers
First you need to prepare a base for laying insulation. From the inside of the house, this role will be played by vapor barrier film and OSB boards.
Procedure:
- Roll out a roll insulating material and cut it to fit the walls of the house.
- Fix the vapor barrier canvases one by one to the vertical racks of the frame using a stapler. Installation rules: insulating strips are directed perpendicularly wooden beams, the minimum overlap is 10 cm.
- Check the tightness of the protective layer.
- Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
- Fix the panels to the frame, overlapping the vapor barrier foil.
In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying finishing walls.
Insulation installation rules
An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood-fiber insulation - ease of attachment with your own hands. Both heat insulators are resilient enough, so they do not need additional fixation. Plates are inserted between frame racks and are held due to the slight difference in size.
So that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its effectiveness over time, it is necessary to follow certain rules for its installation:
- Laying is done in two layers, the slabs are staggered. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the joining seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of "cold bridges" that contribute to the accumulation of condensation and dampness.
- Insulation boards need protection from strong wind and precipitation. By analogy with inner wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.
The film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For a more secure attachment, you can use the counter-crate system.
Exterior wall cladding
Bars attached to the top of the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the thermal insulation material and the outer trim. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.
Under and siding different types slabs of moisture-resistant OSB are nailed to the crate, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, a natural stone or facade tiles fits directly onto oriented strand board.
Thermal insulation of the roof of the house
High-quality roof insulation is of great importance in preserving heat. Thought-out and competently executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular option for insulation is placing mineral wool between rafter legs... The roofing cake must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.
Let us describe in sequence, how to properly insulate the roof:
- Pull a water-repellent diffusion film along the outer end of the rafters. Secure the membrane with a counter batten.
- From the inside rafter system lay insulation. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation scheme is a checkerboard layout.
- Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing the horizontal laying of the vapor barrier in the direction from bottom to top. The overlap of the film insulation is 5-10 cm.
- Sheathe the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
External roofing is carried out using counter battens. Sheathing beams are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards are attached on top or directly roofing material(slate, corrugated board, metal or flexible tiles).
Insulation of the floor of the first floor
A lot of heat also goes through the base of the house - about 15-20% of the heat costs are on the floor. Alternatively, you can organize underfloor heating. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.
The described technology is suitable for warming interfloor or attic floors.
A variety of methods for using ecowool
The second most popular material for thermal insulation of frame buildings is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. The mechanized backfill will provide the required density and uniformity of placement.
There are three methods of using ecowool:
- dry spray;
- wet application;
- glue method.
Dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling interfloor floors and non-separable structures. The density of ecowool laying with this method is 45-65 kg / cubic meter. m depending on the slope.
Wet technology suitable for vertical open walls... Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied to the surface under pressure. The density of the insulating layer is about 65 kg / cubic meter. m.
The glue method is similar to the previous one, but an adhesive component is added instead of water. The advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The glue method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, the option is also suitable for wall treatment.
The issue of house insulation must be considered even at the construction stage. It is more profitable from a financial point of view and technically more correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to perform overhaul buildings after commissioning.
DIY video instruction on thermal insulation
More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.
Have you become the proud owner of a new, cozy "Canadian" home? Want to enjoy the comfort of your home? So, it's time to think about insulating the floor of a frame house. The flooring in your home must be solid and of high quality, otherwise all the heat will go into the ground. Frame houses have light flooring, therefore, provided permanent residence in it you will have to insulate the floor.
The choice of thermal protection method depends a lot on how you installed the house: whether it has a shallow strip foundation or a relatively simple pile foundation. The structure is installed on the ground, or already has a flooring on the joists.
Floor in frame house can be done in different ways.
- it could be sand-cement screed executed on the ground;
- it is possible to equip a wooden flooring, tightly laying the boards on the logs;
- a range of different wood-shaving, pressed boards impregnated with adhesives.
These are all simple enough solutions to lay the first "rough" layer of flooring in your home. Unfortunately favorable climatic conditions outside the window are not always, which makes you think about the thermal insulation of the home and protecting it from moisture. The relative simplicity of the above options makes it possible to perform floor insulation in a frame house with your own hands.
Choosing the right material
Having chosen the appropriate technology for insulating the floor in a frame house, we will decide on the materials that are best suited for such work. The most common and optimal ones:
- expanded clay;
- Styrofoam;
- mineral wool in the form of mats or in a roll;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- ordinary expanded polystyrene;
- penofol.
In addition to the main ones, for floor insulation with your own hands you will need such auxiliary materials, how:
- windproof film;
- vapor barrier layer;
- edge tape.
Under construction good decision heat preservation problems can be the use of electric or water "warm floor" technology, but this is a separate topic for conversation.
The process of thermal insulation of the floor in the frame in steps
How to insulate the floor in a frame house? - rounded granules of various diameters obtained by firing clay. Environmentally friendly, but fragile enough material. For thermal insulation, it is recommended to use a fraction with a diameter of about 10 mm, diluting it to compact the mass with a finer fraction. A ten-centimeter layer of expanded clay has the same thermal conductivity as brickwork 1 meter thick!
Before pouring the screed, a moisture-proof film must be laid on the compacted soil. A layer of expanded clay is neatly laid on it, which must be leveled, forming a heat-insulating "pillow" of the required thickness.
After that, expanded clay is poured with liquid sand-cement mortar and left for a day. After drying, a moisture-proof coating is applied to the surface. After that, another, less liquid portion is poured. sand-cement mortar with a thickness of 5 cm and more - the screed must withstand the pressure of the legs of home furniture and other household loads.
After the surface has completely dried for about 28-30 days, a decorative covering made of linoleum, tiles, laminate or parquet can be laid on it.
Expanded polystyrene plain or extruded is made in the form of plates and is a material with high thermal protection.
Extruded polystyrene is denser, less prone to deformation, but more flammable. Ordinary polystyrene is not as flammable, but softer. Instead of expanded clay, you can use extruded polystyrene.
Having chosen this technology, you must remember that the upper part of the screed must be reinforced. Before pouring, it is necessary to make a frame of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm, install it and use it to finish pouring the sand-cement mixture over it.
Instead of a top layer of reinforced concrete, the flooring can be made of planks or pressed slabs.
If beams are laid at the base of the house, then one of the most popular methods of insulation can be used - a double floor system. Planks treated with special moisture-proof and antiseptic compounds are laid directly on the beams. They are carefully adjusted and fit as tightly as possible - without gaps and crevices.
To protect against rodent penetration, a protective metal grid with fine weaving. A windproof film is attached to the installed logs with nails or a stapler, preventing the appearance of drafts, on top of which mineral wool is placed in the cells.
The thickness of the mineral wool should be such that there is a gap of about 50 millimeters between the upper, finishing flooring and the insulation for implementation natural ventilation... Instead of mineral wool, you can use foam, or you can combine, using both components at the same time "sandwich".
In this case, first a layer of foam is laid out, and already on it - mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier coating, after which the boards of the "final" layer of the flooring are laid.
Well, and another option for keeping heat in an already existing structure is an isolon coating.
Izolon Is a foamed polyurethane coated with a layer aluminum foil... It is an excellent heat insulator. Studies have shown that one layer of isolon can replace, for example, a 15 cm thick mineral wool flooring. The application mechanism is simple - just spread it over the existing floor, glue the joints with special glue, and put a laminate or parquet board on top.
Regardless of the technology chosen, before starting work on the edges of the foundation, from the lower edge of the insulation and to the upper layer of the final floor, an edge tape is laid. It is the edging of the thermal protection, so the width is at least 50 cm. At the end of the work, the excess film is carefully removed.
In any case, from the option you choose to insulate the floor of a frame house on their own, you need to get expert advice. No one else will give more reasonable and valuable advice for the choice of thermal insulation materials. The price may not always be the main selection criterion. Only a professional can foresee all possible risks and know the specifics of the use of a particular material. And then - the choice is yours.
Floor insulation in a frame house on piles should be carried out, taking into account design features such housing. Only in this case you will not face the problem of lack of indoor comfort. When a house is installed on pile supporting elements, it usually has either a basement. This can be considered an advantage, which slowly turns into a disadvantage, which consists in the blowing of the lower part of the house from all sides.
Features of insulation
Such buildings are erected on marshy soils, so the space under them is characterized by a high level of humidity. In order for the house not to be exposed to the negative effects of natural factors, it flooring it is necessary to equip in several layers.
Thermal Insulation Pie
Insulation of the floor in a frame house presupposes the presence of a supporting skeleton, which is combined with. Next comes the wind protection, which is characterized by vapor permeability. It is required to protect the used insulation material from weathering. The next layer is a heat insulator, covered with moisture and vapor barrier layers. The final will be the final floor, which is covered with boards.
How to eliminate errors
When choosing an insulating material for such a "pie", it is necessary to be guided by the fact that it must be of high quality. It is recommended to use good steam and waterproofing products, which will reliably protect the premises from moisture. If the floor insulation in a frame house installed on piles is not performed according to all the rules, then you may face an increase in heating costs, the presence of condensation above the underground and the appearance of mold and mildew.
It is possible to insulate pile structures using several technologies; the main requirement in this matter is the need to use materials that could be operated in humid conditions. Thermal insulation of the floor in a frame house with foam is one of the best and rational approaches... But at low temperatures and high humidity, this material breaks down into individual elements. If you want to use this thermal insulation, then you should make sure that it is reliably protected from moisture.
Mineral wool is also widespread enough to solve this problem. It is inert to biological influences, has high heat-shielding characteristics and is not afraid of fire. But when water penetrates inside, the protective properties of the insulation are lost. With appropriate measures, you can use any type of mineral wool, among them:
- stone;
- glass;
- slag.
This heat insulator is sold in rolls and plates, but experts recommend using last option, since it has a more impressive density compared to its roll analogue.
Floor insulation with penoplex in a frame house is also carried out quite often. This material is polystyrene foam made by extrusion technology. It has low moisture absorption and high strength. These features give the material many advantages over its cheap counterparts. If we compare it with polystyrene, then penoplex will be more reliable.
Alternative solutions
Warming the floor of a frame house with expanded clay is also quite common. It is easy to use this material, and there is no need to resort to outside help. Expanded clay is distinguished by fire safety and low cost. But when compared with the materials mentioned above, expanded clay is inferior in terms of heat-shielding properties.
In the role of waterproof and windproof membranes on a pile foundation, vapor-permeable moisture-windproof membranes should be used, which are easy to install. However, you must be prepared that the cost of such substrates is quite high. As a vapor barrier, you can use a simple plastic wrap, which is laid directly on the insulation layer.
Features of floor insulation with expanded clay
The first, when insulating the floor with expanded clay, is a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is especially relevant, because the insulation absorbs moisture well, which can cause unpleasant consequences. To achieve uniformity, before backfilling with expanded clay, it is necessary to set guide beacons that will determine the level of the future floor.
To securely fix the insulation, a screed layer is used, as well as an upper waterproofing. Before applying the final top layer of the screed, an intermediate fixing layer must be poured in. For this, cement is mixed with water to obtain a homogeneous suspension. It should be poured with a layer of expanded clay. After drying of such a layer, you will be able to get a monolithic expanded clay floor that will not be afraid of moisture and high loads. This design is able to withstand even a small earthquake. The final layer will be a screed, with which it will be possible to finally level the floor.
Step-by-step instructions for floor insulation
At the first stage, the rough floor is equipped, for this a wooden beam is attached to the logs, which is also called cranial. It will act as a support for the finishing planks. The used wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic; at the next stage, you can proceed with the installation of the boards.
If you decide to use expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, it is recommended to install a mesh instead of the subfloor. It is fixed to the lags so that it is able to withstand the weight of the heat insulator used. Overloading the piles with excess weight is not recommended. After completing the arrangement of the subfloor, a vapor barrier is laid on its surface. All moisture from the outside will remain outside, and it will not affect the insulation layer. This area can be vaporized with plastic wrap, which is often replaced with roofing felt.
Thermal insulation of the floor in a frame house at the next stage involves the installation of thermal insulation. On top of it there should be a layer of vapor barrier, which excludes the penetration of condensate and internal moisture into the "cake". When laying a vapor barrier, you should get rid of the gaps that may remain between the sheets of materials. Otherwise, they may arise that are dangerous for thermal insulation, because they will soon destroy the structure of the material.
At the next stage, you can proceed to laying the finished floor using chipboards, floorboards, plywood sheets or other products. Insulation of the floor in a frame house must be accompanied by the protection of the piles with a stationary plinth. In this case, snow will not fall under it. But if you do not intend to build a warm space or you do not have the opportunity for this, then the supporting elements should be covered with a decorative plinth, which is fast and low cost.
Insulation of the floor through the base
When the floor is insulated in a frame house, you can close the basement with your own hands using one of the existing methods. What is a brick or frame imitation of a basement used for, the last of which allows you to equip an analogue of a ventilated facade. If you decide to use masonry, then the pick-up must be built using halves of bricks. The first row should be placed on a pre-fitted sand cushion that is well rammed.
The fence must be waterproofed using roofing material. Correct insulation the floor of a frame house necessarily implies thermal insulation of the basement. For this, its imitation can be used. This technique allows you to complete the work as soon as possible, saving money. The frame is made by installing lathing from wooden beams or galvanized profiles. They must be installed directly on the piles. At the next stage, this structure is sheathed with roofing material, PVC sheets are installed on top, which imitate stone or brick. Polyvinyl chloride products are strengthened with nails or universal screws. The first option is suitable for wooden lathing, while the second is for a metal profile.
Double thermal insulation
Double insulation of the floor of a frame house involves the use of double floor technology. From the name it is clear that the plank flooring will have to be done twice, but the planks will be different. The sub-floor will be made of rough planks that fit well together. A layer of roofing material is laid on top, which will protect the wooden floor.
The next layer will be sand, the height of which should be a limit of 3 to 5 cm. Next, the sand is covered with plastic wrap, reinforced with nails or a construction stapler. The next layer will be thermal insulation, which is pre-cut into pieces. Chipboard slabs should be laid on top, on which the finishing floor will be laid.
Features of Cross Insulation
Cross-floor insulation in a frame house is also used quite often. When the basement floor is equipped with beams with the following dimensions: 200 x 500 mm, the thickness of the insulation should be 200 mm. Upper layer thermal insulation should be located perpendicular to the lower layers, which gives the name of the technology.
Conclusion
Insulation of the floor in a house with a foundation on piles can be carried out thoroughly, however, if you want to experiment, then thermal insulation can be carried out even with the help of carpet. This method great for those owners who have not yet decided to open the floor.
To do this, you should use a material that is similar in characteristics to ordinary carpets. The carpet should be laid over the entire floor area of the room, affecting the perimeter. This approach will close the cracks in the concrete and wooden floor through which cold air enters from the basement.
The floor in a frame house should be made of wooden floor beams. Most often, the finished structure is in contact with the outside air. This is due to the fact that the pile screw foundation is popular for the construction of light structures. Such supports raise the building above the ground, leaving free space between it and the ceiling, which is blown through by air.
The device of the floor in a frame house requires its mandatory insulation. Without this, there is a high probability of the appearance of mold and mildew, and walking on a cold surface is not a pleasant activity.
Cake designs
First of all, you need to make an overlap in a frame house. It will also be a black floor at the same time. The main floor beams must be securely fastened to the - grillage.
It is important to know that between the metal piles and wooden beams waterproofing is required. It is necessary in order to protect against negative impact elements that possess different characteristics especially natural humidity. For waterproofing, roll material is laid in two layers. You can use roofing material, linokrom or hydroizol. Sometimes outdated roofing paper or glassine is found. It is not advisable to use them.
The load-bearing base of the floor of a frame house can be made in two ways:
- using the main beams;
- using main and secondary beams.
Secondary beams or, more simply, logs allow you to increase the pitch of the main beams. But this option increases the scope of work, increases material consumption and the thickness of the overlap.
The Right Floor Pie
In the absence of secondary beams, the main beams are also used as logs. The correct pie in this case is as follows (listing from bottom to top):
- cranial bars with a cross section of up to 50x50 mm, which are attached to the side at the bottom of the load-bearing floor beams;
- filing from boards;
- moisture and wind protection;
- load-bearing beams with insulation between them;
- vapor barrier material;
- subfloor boards or chipboard with a thickness of about 16 mm.
How to make a floor in a frame house
As the floor beams, take a beam or edged board with a cross section of 5x15 cm on average. The exact dimensions depend on the span length and element spacing. The boards are installed so that the larger side is vertical and the smaller side is horizontal. When mounted, on the contrary, the bearing capacity is greatly reduced.
All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic before use. Such a substance allows you to protect the floor cake in a frame house from rotting and mold. Additionally, processing with fire retardants can be performed. This will increase the fire resistance of the structures and make the home safer.
To make the floor in a frame house with your own hands, the main floor beams and at the same time the logs are fixed to the foundation grillage on piles. Elements must be placed on top. Side fastening does not provide high reliability. There are two ways: with or without a cut. The cut allows you to securely fix the elements, but weakens the strapping. For this reason, it is recommended to do without it.
Anchor bolts are used as fastening tools. They are fixed in the harness. To fasten the beams, you will have to prepare holes in them. To do this, the logs are laid out on the anchor and hit at the place of support with a hammer. There will be a dent in the right place. After making the holes, the floor beams are laid in place, and on top of them the nuts are tightened onto the anchor. Additionally, it is recommended to use washers. This is because small metal elements can be sunk into softwood.
After installation of the main load-bearing structures proceed to fixing the cranial bars. Such elements are necessary in order to lay the filing boards on them. The bars are fixed on self-tapping screws, nails or hairpins. The sizes are chosen depending on the load: the weight of the filing and insulation, as well as the distance between the bearing beams. Most often, bars of 50x50 mm or less are used.
Decking is made on the cranial bars. It will serve as a base for insulation. Fastening - on nails or screws. For manufacturing, they take a board treated with an antiseptic, 25-40 mm thick. Waterproofing and windproof material is laid on the filing. It is fixed with a construction stapler, and the joints are glued with tape. The minimum overlap at the joints is 10 cm.
It is recommended to use modern vapor-diffusion moisture-windproof membranes as wind protection and waterproofing. They replaced tapes. The main advantage of this material is vapor permeability. The membrane does not interfere with the house "breathing" and effectively removes steam outside, protecting the insulation from moisture.
Insulation is placed between the bearing beams. It must be protected from internal steam with a vapor barrier. Here, too, there is a choice: films or membranes. When building your home, you should choose the best materials. But the membrane will cost more than the film.
The subfloor in the frame house is completed after the installation of the flooring. Between it and the insulation, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 cm thick for ventilation. For flooring, a 40 mm thick edged board is used. The width is usually taken as 100 mm. Like all other elements, the flooring must be impregnated with an antiseptic. The boards are fastened to the logs with nails or self-tapping screws. Choose galvanized fasteners that are corrosion resistant.
Insulation of floors
Several types of materials are used for thermal insulation of floors. There is no strength limit here, since the insulation is placed between the logs and does not take the payload.
Among the insulation options, the following are widespread:
- mineral wool;
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex);
- penoizol (in the form of foam).
Mineral wool has become a popular option. This is justified by the favorable cost of the material, its availability and the simplicity of the technology. Another advantage is vapor permeability, wool does not interfere with the natural ventilation of the building. In order not to have to cut the slabs, it is recommended to set the lag step so that there is a distance of 580 or 1180 mm between them in the light. This will allow the insulation to be laid tightly and without scraps.
Floor insulation scheme with mineral wool There are several types of mineral wool. Basalt in hard slabs is best suited. Glass wool is inconvenient to work with, and slag wool is made from industrial waste.
The thickness of the insulation is assigned according to the calculation, depending on the climatic region. On average, this will be a value from 5 to 15 cm. For accurate calculations, it is recommended to use the TEREMOK program. It can be easily found freely available as a PC application or online version. For calculations, you will need to select locality from the list, the type of the calculated structure, the thickness of the insulation and its thermal conductivity. The latter characteristic is easy to find out from the manufacturers.
Warm floor in a frame house
The construction of buildings with warm water floors is gaining popularity. This option allows you to make your home comfortable without serious costs. Water heating costs much less electric.
For laying pipes inside the cake, a special flooring design is used. In this case, it is recommended to make a subfloor from a board not 40 mm, but 50 mm. The flooring is not made continuous, but sparse. The distance between the elements is selected so that between them it is possible to lay heat-reflecting plates with heating tubes inside.
Another floor structure in a frame house with water heating is done using a cement screed. The screed is poured over the solid flooring over the load-bearing beams. Due to the increased load, the flooring is made 50 mm thick.
A plastic wrap is placed on the boards, which will prevent the flow of cement laitance. Next, a screed 50-70 mm thick is poured, having previously spread the water pipes along the floor. They must be completely hidden by concrete. A clean floor is laid on top of the screed.
The second method has a significant drawback - increasing the load on the floor. In addition, in the event of a breakdown of the heating system, you will have to break the screed. The first option allows you to simply disassemble the floor and reassemble it.
Warming the floor in a frame house is not such a difficult operation if you know the basic rules and regulations. In this article, you will learn the most important ones and not make any offensive mistakes.
The most common thickness of insulation in the floor of a frame house in central Russia is 200 mm. This is usually sufficient to minimize heat loss through the floor. If we are talking about an energy-efficient or so-called "passive" house, then the recommended insulation thickness should be 300 mm. The same thickness is relevant for northern latitudes.As a rule, the floors (of the first floor) in a frame house are assembled on logs made of sawn timber with a section of 200 * 50mm (or 195 * 45mm for a planed board) with a step of 600 or 400 mm, depending on the design loads on the floor.
For the arrangement of the subfloor, on which the insulation will be laid, you can use either a support board or cranial bars.
Support board, in contrast to the cranial bar, allows you to make the most of the space between the lags and fill it entirely with insulation. The support board is attached directly during the installation of the first floor floor log, before their installation. It is optimal to use lumber impregnated with an antiseptic with a section of 100 * 25 or 150 * 25 as a support board. Since the main tear-off load will fall on the hardware in this structure, it is extremely important to ensure their reliable fastening - use either brushed (screw) nails or self-tapping screws.
Cranial bar section from 40X40mm to 50X50mm is used, as a rule, in interfloor ceilings where the thickness of the insulation (sound insulation) is required to fill only part of the volume. Or in cases where the lags are already mounted. This method is also used in summer houses, when a small layer of insulation is laid on the floor of the first floor, sufficient for seasonal living.
Further, the subfloor is laid directly on the resulting support. As a rule, these are OSB sheets (OSB) cut along the width of the opening, or an antiseptic board with a section of 150 (100) * 25. The second method is cheaper, as you can imagine.
After that, along the floor logs and rough floor the layer of the wind and moisture protection membrane (type Izospan A) is stretched, laid and fixed with a stapler with a rough surface to the insulation. The overlap of the membrane panels is 15 cm.
The place for laying the insulation is ready, you can start installing it.
After laying the insulation, a vapor barrier must be done.
This is a crucial moment. The duration of the service life of both the insulation itself and the entire "pie" of the floor will depend on the quality of gluing the seams of the vapor barrier layer. In the photo above, additional lathing bars are used. As well as for walls, this technique helps to prevent possible damage to the film when sewing the floor with board, OSB or plywood.
Another advantage of using additional lathing (or counter-lathing - at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the lag) is the ability to "hide" communications under the floor. For example, as in the photo:
Types of floor insulation in a frame house
1. Mineral wool (mineral wool).
Probably the most common type of insulation today. Mineral wool is made from molten glass. Material with an optimal combination of price and quality. Large selection of manufacturers on the market. For the floor, both rolled insulation and in the form of mats are used. It must be laid with overlapping joints and overlapping layers of at least 15 cm.That is, for example, for insulation of 150 mm it is not advisable to use one layer of 150 mm, use 100 + 50 or 50 + 50 + 50.
2. Basalt insulation.
The next most popular type of insulation. Materials are made from rocks, which are melted into a stone wave. This type of insulation is more expensive than mineral wool because of the materials and the production process itself. But it is more resistant to aggressive substances and biological influences.
Unlike mineral, basalt insulation is more rigid (fragile) and more suitable for flat surfaces. Mineral wool is more flexible and can be used to insulate complex geometric structures.
3. Ecowool.
A relatively new type of insulation in Russia for frame houses... Basically, Russian ecowool consists of newspaper and cardboard waste paper. In the countries of Europe and America, the raw materials for ecowool are: hay, sawdust, cotton and flax waste, hemp, etc. Ecowool contains fire retardants (fire protection) without fail. In Russia, as a rule, borax (borex) in combination with an antiseptic, boric acid, acts as a fire retardant. The approximate proportion of cellulose and antiseptics in the composition of ecowool ranges from 80/20 to 75/25. Therefore, as you can imagine, environmental friendliness of ecowool is often a common marketing PR. We will talk in more detail about ecowool in our other article.
An important nuance when insulating a frame house with ecowool is the correctness of this very application. Warming manually ("fluffing") is highly discouraged, since in the future there is a high probability of the insulation settling. Correct insulation with ecowool is possible only with the help of "wet" spraying special equipment... Due to the lingin added to the ecowool, the latter, when blown out under pressure, sticks to building structures, while forming a seamless layer of insulation.
Compared to mineral and basalt insulation, ecowool protects the house from blowing by about 35% (according to the Association of Pulp Producers). At the same time, it costs 1.5-2 times more expensive than mineral insulation. According to the assurance of ecowool manufacturers, vapor barrier is not required, but most builders at the moment are still reinsured.
4. Styrofoam.
The most important advantage of foam as a heater is its cheapness. That is why it is so popular among builders of low-budget housing, garages, sheds, change houses and other ancillary buildings. It is important to note that when insulating a frame structure, we mean ordinary foam, not extruded (EPP). EPP is completely vapor-tight, therefore, moisture that gets inside the frame, over time, as a rule, provokes processes of wood decay and leads to irreparable results.
Probably the biggest disadvantage of foam is its susceptibility to temperature changes in geometry. With strong temperature drops, the joints of the foam sheets crack, forming cracks, which require further sealing almost every season. Experienced craftsmen(foam advocates) have learned to use this material without using polyurethane foam... All that is required is the installation of foam panels "in tightness", when a sheet of material is sawn 1-2 mm wider than the opening and its installation is carried out very tightly to the frame racks. At the same time, sheets of polystyrene are placed "in a run-up" in order to exclude gaps in the insulation. And without fail, when insulating with foam, an ideal vapor barrier is made from the inside of the room.
Someone learned to combine foam and mineral insulation... But it would be more correct not to use polystyrene foam to insulate a full-fledged house for a year-round.
5. Other heaters.
In rare cases, bulk materials such as sawdust, peat, straw chaff, etc. are used to insulate floors in frame houses. It is unlikely that such a decision is correct. Firstly, such materials reliably ensure the preservation of heat only with a layer of 25-40 cm, secondly, they can cake over time, and thirdly, their treatment with various protective substances will be quite expensive.