Windows without slopes. How to make slopes for plastic windows correctly

Window replacement has become very common today. Old frames are still being actively replaced by modern analogs made of plastic, metal and wood. The installation process itself occurs quickly enough, which cannot be said about the decoration of windows from the outside, since a number of technological requirements, and from an aesthetic point of view, the owner should be satisfied. In the article, we will analyze various ways to create beautiful and reliable slopes and frames, focusing on the materials and methods of their installation.

So why should you pay close attention correct finish windows outside. The first thing that comes to mind is the neat exterior of the building. Without quality framing, you don't have to expect your home to look neat. Slopes and platbands are actively used in the formation of the style of the building, its design, but not only. In many ways, they directly affect the comfort of people staying inside the building:

1. The technology of installing window frames requires leaving a technological gap, that is, they are never placed close to the walls. The resulting gaps are necessary to compensate for the movement of the structure as a result of shrinkage and even seismic activity, as well as the window system itself under temperature influences. If this technology requirement was violated, any changes would lead to deformation of the frames, due to which the windows would stop opening, and, possibly, the glass would be squeezed out.

2. The technological gaps left are direct ways of heat exchange between the room and the street, so they must be insulated. Previously, tow, wool, felt were used for these purposes, now it is mainly polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

3. All of these types of materials quickly deteriorate if they come into contact with the atmosphere, moisture, wind, ultraviolet rays, which is why they need reliable protection.

As protection, a coating made of materials that are immune to the above factors is used. At the same time, they must have sufficient attractiveness and correlate with the systems with which the facade of the building is finished. In other words, the material of the slopes must be externally and technically combined with the material of the walls.

Plaster type slopes

Windows can relate in different ways to the plane of the walls - either they are recessed inward and there are perpendicular slopes, or they are exposed in one plane. In the second case, only an invoice platband is required to protect the insulation, however, such a solution can be realized, in general, only during the construction of a new house, or the old windows were installed in the same way. It is much easier to make a platband than a slope.

So, the first on our list will be plaster slopes. They can rightfully be called the classic version.

For such slopes, a sand-cement mixture is used, from which the outline of the window opening is completely formed. Today, this method is not as popular as it used to be, but many still consider it the most reliable and durable solution.

They are used if the walls of the facade of the building are either completely plastered, or they are formed from the solution. architectural element, which outwardly will be in harmony with the material of the walls.

The advantages of such slopes are the availability of materials and sufficient simple technology workmanship, such a finish is resistant to weathering, looks simple, but neat.

An experienced craftsman will make a high-quality slope within a few hours, if we are talking about a simple rectangular shape. Complex compositions with irregular geometry can be very time consuming. It is almost impossible to do this yourself without experience and templates.

Cement plaster requires a certain time to dry, which will not allow you to immediately decorate the structure. It is also worth considering that such work is dirty, so you should be careful.

Interesting to know! For work, you can use any plaster mixtures, including decorative ones, for example, bark beetle. It all depends on the design approach.

Prices for various types of decorative plaster

Decorative plaster

How to make a plaster slope

Now let's figure out what is required for such work, and in what sequence it is performed. We prepare the following tool:

Capacity for mixing the plaster mixture.
Electric kneading tool - mixer, electric drill, perforator.
A set of spatulas for applying the mixture, an angle trowel and a trowel for applying plaster.
Slope flattening tools - plumb line, bubble construction level, laser axis builder.
Wide brush with soft bristles.
Plaster float.

From the materials we acquire the following:

Ready-made dry plaster mix or cement with sand, if you decide to save a little. A lot of material does not go to the slopes, so it is better to buy it ready-made, since the factory contains plasticizers in the right proportions, which adds elasticity to the solution - in general, makes working with it more comfortable.
Putty mixture. Compositions for outdoor use are used, including decorative plaster, applied only as a finishing layer.
Deep penetration primer for outdoor use, which will reduce the water absorption of the base and strengthen it.
Fiberglass mesh for reinforcing slopes. This material is inexpensive, but it significantly strengthens the concrete layers, so do not neglect it.

When choosing a ready-made solution, we advise you to pay attention to the additional properties of the material. Due to the use of some additives, the compositions can compare favorably with the classic sand-cement mixture. For example, insulating plaster will additionally insulate your window. It contains granules of foam glass, perlite, vermiculite, which gives similar properties. In addition, the material is moisture resistant. Fiber is often used for additional reinforcement.

Now let's take a step by step how to plaster the slopes. In fact, the technology includes only two stages - setting beacons and working with the mixture. If everything is unambiguous with the second moment, then the first one has many variants of execution. Today we will analyze a modern method that will help to do everything efficiently, even for a beginner who has not encountered something like this before.

Table 1. Plastering of slopes.

Photos, steps	Description
	First, the base must be cleaned of dirt and dust. This is done with a regular brush. Next, a layer of primer is applied, which needs to dry well. The drying time is indicated on the can with the composition. This step is mandatory, as the plaster may fall off over time due to low adhesion.
	The installation of this element is rightfully considered the most difficult, but not the option that we will offer you. Here is a special beacon profile for slopes with a reinforcement mesh and an adhesive base. It is inexpensive, but it saves a lot of your time and nerves. Installation takes place in the following order: 1. From the edge of the frame, an indent is made exactly the width of the profile. You can navigate directly along the edge, however, we advise you to put additional marks on the level so that you do not have to tear off the glued profile in case of a misfire, and the window itself may not be accurate. 2. Remove the protective tape from the back to release the adhesive base. 3. The profile is glued according to the marks. Attention! If your slope is very wide, build up the fiberglass mesh using a separate skein.
	The second beacon can also be made in different ways. Let's take a concrete example where a craftsman uses a metal rule and straight lines. plywood sheets... He reinforces the rule as follows: 1. Two holes are drilled in the wall at a certain height, into which plastic dowels are inserted. 2. Then self-made clamps are installed, as in the photo, consisting of a platform and a short support on one side. A slot is made in the platform for a self-tapping screw so that the height can be adjusted. 3. A rule is set under the free end of the clamp, it is set clearly in level, after which the screws are tightened for reliable fixation.
	Beacons on the side walls are much easier to set up. The photo shows another option. Used plywood, in which cuts were made for the possibility of quick adjustment of the position of the element. It is also attached to dowels. All external beacons are exposed strictly at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the window frame along the internal beacon. The undoubted convenience of such a solution is the speed of installation (no need to wait for the mixtures to dry under the beacons) and the ability to quickly correct the position if errors are made.
	Next, the plaster mixture is mixed. It must be thrown inside the slope so that it adheres securely to the base. Attention! In no case is it allowed to spread the solution, only to throw it over. If desired, the plaster can be reinforced further. To do this, dowel screws are screwed into the base and do not reach the end. The protruding head will significantly strengthen the structure of the slope. 1. The applied mixture is pulled over the beacons with a hard spatula. Any level and sturdy rail can be used. 2. We achieve perfect surface evenness. 3. After a while, the plaster must be wiped off. 4. The outer beacon is removed after the slope dries. Advice! To avoid adhesion of the solution to the plywood, the latter can be coated with used oil or covered with a plastic bag. This measure will further increase the service life of the fixture.

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Deep penetration primer

Video - Slopes with your own hands: beacons for plastering

Frame type slopes

So, if plaster is a continuous covering of a slope, then there is also a frame type, when there is an empty space inside that can be additionally insulated. The choice of material for such solutions directly depends on the type of cladding of the building. Slopes can be made of - plastic, wooden lining, vinyl or metal siding, window profile, metal cassette element. The installation of these materials is almost identical, so we did not separate them.

View the following photographs showing similar slopes.

Each of the listed materials has its own set of characteristics, but none of them provides the window system with additional thermal protection, like special compositions of plaster mixes. However, there are methods for insulating such slopes: the inner space is filled with polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

Installation takes place according to the following scheme:

A frame is exposed, which can be external and internal, or only external. In the first case, a belt is attached from a rail or metal profile near the window frame and the same along the outer perimeter of the slope. In the second - only the outer element - the inner one is replaced by a starting profile, which is attached directly to the frame. The latter solution is suitable for plastic and thin lining.
All elements of the frame are set clearly in level, since they completely determine the geometry of the future slope.
They are fastened in different ways, depending on the material. Most often, anchors and metal hangers are used as fasteners.
The fixing material is installed according to the fastening scheme of a specific material. For example, wooden lining can be held by nails and screws directly or through metal brackets - clamps, and the siding is held by screws and a special fastening profile.
The outer corner of the slope is covered with a decorative element. Usually these are overhead corners, examples of which you may have seen in the photographs shown above.

It is much easier to make a frame slope than a plaster one, and in 90% of cases it does not need to be additionally processed. The product begins its service life immediately after installation. Everything would be great, but not every material will last long. Painted elements fade in the sun over time, the tree can rot and change its color. You can repeat the staining, but it will not look like the factory one, and the slopes will definitely lose their attractiveness. But plaster surfaces can be renewed an unlimited number of times.

Prices for various types of slopes for windows

Slope panel

Video - Slope made of plastic panels

Decorative elements for window frames

Agree, you will not surprise anyone with ordinary slopes today. How, then, can you refine the look of your home? For these purposes, various elements and techniques are used that can be combined with the previously described types of slopes.

1. You can frame windows polyurethane overlays. They are installed on glue, so you need to provide a flat base with good adhesion. They are also suitable for brick walls.

2. Smooth plastered slopes will serve as an excellent basis for finishing with various decorative materials. The photo shows an option for decorating a window from the outside decorative artificial stone. Clinker and porcelain tiles will also look beautiful.

3. Extruded expanded polystyrene is also used for similar purposes. Such systems consist of corner elements and a straight profile. Everything is set on glue. You can choose any of the available colors, or paint the material yourself.

4. In cases of facade renovation using decorative brickwork, windows can be separately laid out with shaped products to give them an unusual beautiful look.

5. You can use the services at a high price professional craftsmen who can create such masterpieces stucco molding. Such windows look very, beautiful, luxurious and rich.

6. Sandrik Is a small architectural element above the window, which can be made of concrete, plaster, polyurethane and foam. The difficulty of installing a part depends on the material.

7. Pyramidal or wedge-shaped decorative element made from the same materials. Installed on top of a vault or arch, above a window.

8. Under the window you can install false balusters.

It is worth noting that determining the required decorative elements is a rather complicated matter. If you overdo it, then instead of beauty, you get wild pretentiousness and tastelessness, so do not be afraid to use the advice of professionals. Of course, they take money for their services, but remember that you create the look of the house and will look at it for more than one year, and only positive emotions should appear from the contemplation of you and the audience.

The installation of window frames, of course, does not end with the work in this area of the facade. Ahead is a rather complex and responsible operation of finishing window slopes. And this is not only in order to give the appearance of the building a finished look, the conceived design. There are more important ones from a practical point of view, the reasons.

Finishing the slopes of windows outside can be done using several technologies and using different materials. To determine their choice, it is necessary to consider the most affordable options for independent conduct.

What is the need for finishing window slopes outside

So, finishing the slopes of the windows from the outside is necessary not only because of the aesthetics of the facade. Much more serious goals are pursued that directly affect the comfort of living in the house.

When new window frames are installed in the openings during construction, or when they are replaced during reconstruction or repairs, they are never mounted close to the wall structure. It is imperative that certain gaps are left on all sides, which are necessary to compensate for possible "movements", for example, when a building shrinks or even during seismic shocks. Otherwise, even a small change in the geometry of the walls, including a temporary one, can distort the windows, completely deform them, squeeze out the glass, etc.

Naturally, such gaps become loopholes for the cold. For a long time, during construction, they were filled with natural insulation - tow, felt, wool, etc. But if you leave these insulating padding layers without the necessary protection, they will not last long. They quickly begin to age, are taken away by birds to their nests, under the influence of precipitation and simply atmospheric humidity, they get wet, losing their qualities, they begin to rot and rot.

Over time, materials came to replace such natural insulation industrial production such as mineral wool. Even if it is not so attractive to birds, and does not give in to decay, the ingress of water on it, combined with the effects of frost, leads to stalling, increased fragility of fibers and a sharp loss of insulating qualities.

Recently, polyurethane foam has been used to seal and insulate such deformation gaps. This is great stuff. that does an excellent job. But it also cannot boast exemplary durability if it is not protected. Consolidated Impact ultraviolet rays, humidity, wind and temperature changes can very quickly "age" the solidified polyurethane foam - the foam begins to crumble, and such sealing will be of little use.

Therefore, the insulated seams between the wall and the frame must be closed with a material that is more resistant to natural influences. This, by the way, will further increase the thermal insulation qualities of this area. And since it is natural for a person to reach for beauty and neatness, they also try to give such a finish the most attractive look. That is, the work is planned and carried out taking into account the decorative qualities of the created facade appearance.

Methods for finishing external slopes and materials for these purposes

Not so long ago, the only ways to finish slopes were leveling them with mortar, followed by whitewashing or painting - for stone houses, or wood sheathing - for, respectively, wooden houses. Nowadays, the owners are provided with a fairly wide selection of materials that can not only aesthetically transform the appearance of the facade, but also create reliable protection for the thermal insulation layer around the perimeter of the window frames.

So, the following materials can be used for finishing slopes:

Cement mortar. This trim finishes cannot be excluded from popular methods, as many homeowners consider it to be the most reliable and durable. In addition, with the help of this material, the slopes are aligned for other facing materials.
Moisture resistant drywall. This material will perfectly level surfaces, but it will require additional plastering and coating - it can be decorative plaster, tiles or painting.
Plastic slopes. This option can be used not only when the walls of the house are faced vinyl siding as many people think. It is also widely used when decorating the facade with other materials.
Panels of expanded polystyrene (better - extrusive) are quite suitable for the formation of slopes, and in addition, they have very high thermal insulation qualities. True, just like drywall, they will require additional finishing.
Clinker tiles. This option is usually used in cases where the facade walls are built of bricks and decorated for joining, or are faced with clinker bricks or tiles.

Prices for plastic windows

plastic windows

Natural wooden lining is suitable when the walls are built of timber or logs, or are faced with wood (natural block house). The lining will be in perfect harmony with these materials, especially if it is used in combination with platbands.

Sandwich panels are PVC plates, between which one of the rigid insulation materials is laid. Such panels can be used for both internal and external finishing of slopes. They will harmonize very well with almost any facade wall decoration.
Vinyl lining, which is produced in different shades and can be used in combination with insulation material, will also look good with any finish external walls at home.

Without finishing window slopes in the premises beautiful interior do not achieve!

The methods of finishing the slopes outside and inside are in many ways similar, and differ in most cases only in the weather resistance of the materials used. So it makes sense to familiarize yourself with this type of work. About technologies - in a separate article on our portal.

How to independently trim window slopes outside

Finishing of external window slopes with plastering

Finishing of external slopes should be done immediately after the foam hardens. Its protruding excess is cut off with a construction knife flush with the window frame.

Cement or other mortar for external use is used both for the main finishing and as preparatory work to prepare the surface for fixing ceramic tiles, foam or drywall, since a flat surface is required for the installation of these materials.

When using solutions as the main finish, it is necessary to prepare for a rather complex work. The fact is that it is quite difficult to bring to the ideal a surface that is sometimes uneven in all directions.

The finishing process itself includes several stages, the sequence of which must be followed. Otherwise, the solution applied to the wall will very soon begin to crack and flake off.

Tools and materials

The first thing to start with is to prepare everything you need, that is, tools and materials.

Of the tools you will need:

A trowel, a set of spatulas of various widths, including an angular one.
Capacity for mixing the solution.
Building level, square plumb line.
Soft, wide brush.
Construction grater.
Electric drill with an attachment for mixing solutions or a construction mixer.

Of the materials for finishing the slopes, it will be necessary to purchase:

Cement and sand or ready-made plaster mix for outdoor use.
Finishing putty - also for outdoor use. For the final outer layer, a mixture can be used. decorative plaster.
Priming compound.
Reinforcing fiberglass mesh.

Plaster mixes

You can mix cement with sand in a certain proportion (for example, 1: 3) for plastering slopes, and thereby try to save on material. However, in order for the finishing layer to serve as long as possible, also coped with the function of additional insulation, it is recommended to use special facade plaster, and it is better - so that it is "warm" .

Sandwich panel prices

sandwich panels

In addition, such plasters become a reliable waterproofing barrier, performs noise-absorbing functions. As a rule, such mixtures, in addition to the binder gypsum or cement, contain natural bulk insulation materials, such as perlite, vermiculite, foam glass, reinforcing additives (cellulose fibers or fiber), special plasticizing additives.

The production of working solutions containing gypsum must be carried out strictly according to the instructions posted by the manufacturer on the packaging. Due to the fact that gypsum sets quickly, it is not worth kneading a large volume of the mixture. If there is no stable experience in plastering work, then it would be better to choose a mixture made on a cement basis.

Ready-made mixtures will cost more, but work with them is much easier, since they have a higher level of adhesion compared to cement-sand mortar... It is a very well balanced material with a homogeneous, finely dispersed consistency, therefore it has excellent adhesion to surfaces.

For finishing the slopes, a large amount of material is not required, since their area is very small. Therefore, you should not save and suffer with heavy use. concrete mortar... The optimal solution is to purchase an easy-to-use and multifunctional ready-mixed mixture for this purpose.

Slope plastering process - step by step

The first, perhaps, stage of the preparatory work will be the cleaning of surfaces from old, peeling plaster on the slopes, if necessary. It is best to clean the surface of it completely, otherwise it is she who can give impetus to cracking and shedding of new finishing layers. If the surface, cleaned of old plaster or whitewash, turns out to be smooth, for example, made of concrete, then notches are applied to it to increase its adhesion ability. After that, the slopes must be cleaned of dust.

It is clear that if we are talking about new slopes, then there can be no remnants of the old finish on them. But clean up, remove possible drops of frozen masonry mortar, remove dust - it will still be required.

Illustration
	The excess foam, which came out after filling the gaps around the frame perimeter, must be cut off, otherwise it will interfere with the plastering of the surface.
	Installing an ebb tide can be the next step. This element of the external window frame is mounted under the window frame and fixed with self-tapping screws to its lower part. Such an installation will help to avoid the ingress of moisture that flows down the frame under the windowsill, it will immediately fall on the inclined plane of the ebb. By installing the ebb in advance, you can also avoid unnecessary work to seal the gaps between it and the side slope. In this case, after plastering the slopes, the attachment of the ebb tide will be more durable.
	After installing the ebb, both it and the entire plane of the window, together with the frame cover, should be covered with plastic wrap so that the solutions during priming and plastering do not fall on their surface. It will be quite difficult to clean these materials from the frame and from the glass, and why ask yourself unnecessary dirty work. The film can be fixed to the frame using masking tape.
	The next stage of work will be the priming of all cleaned surfaces - this is a necessary process for any finishing of both internal and external slopes. The primer has several functions that are necessary for high-quality plastering. This is the impregnation and bonding of materials of the surface of the slopes, which prevents shedding, imparting good adhesion to the materials, that is, the plaster composition will have excellent adhesion to the wall. The third function of primers is antiseptic surface treatment, that is, it will protect the wall from the appearance of fungal or mold colonies. For surface treatment, various primers can be used, but it is better to choose deep penetration solutions with an antiseptic additive. Apply the primer to the slopes with a wide brush.
	The next step is to strengthen the outer edge of the window opening with a special perforated metal or plastic corner. It is better if the corner is equipped with a serpentine mesh or a metal perforated section in the form of stripes on both sides - this will make the corner much stronger. The corner, as a rule, is fixed with a quick-drying gypsum mixture, which is applied to the wall pointwise, approximately every 300 ÷ 350 mm. If a corner with a serpentine is used (or metal mesh), then you can glue the ales mesh "wings" on a thin layer of applied tile glue for outdoor use.
	After the fixing mortars are dry, you can use a wide spatula or a regular wooden lath and attach them to the outer corner of the opening and the junction of the window frame with the wall to determine the thickness that the plaster layer should have. Thus, the largest thickness of the plaster layer will be located at the junction of the window frame with the slope, and the smallest - along the outer edge of the window opening.
	If it is impossible to fix the metal corner due to strong irregularities, then a flat wooden rail is fixed to the wall along the outer edge of the opening. This will become a kind of beacon, that is, it will determine the outer angle of the slope. Therefore, the rail must be set strictly according to the building level.
	Further, when everything is ready for plastering the slopes, it is recommended to make a tool called "malka", which will help level the walls at the desired angle, creating the necessary layer of plaster on them in a certain place. Malka can be easily made of plywood or a flat board with a width of 150 ÷ 200 mm, its length should exceed the width of the slope by 50 ÷ 100 mm. A cut is made from one of the end sides of the bevel, so that when this "rule" is moved, no shifts occur and the required thickness of the plaster is set along the line of joint with the window.
	Another version of the malka is shown in this illustration. Here the cutout is made in the opposite direction - to abut against the edge of the closed window sash. You can think over on the spot which option would be more appropriate in your case. When plastering the slope, the cutout will rest on the frame or closed sash, and with the second edge on the outer corner of the slope, reinforced with a metal or plastic corner. The malka will need to be pressed against these guides and, moving upwards, to align the solution thrown onto the surface. It is clear that when making such a template, it is necessary to make its end surfaces as smooth as possible. Craftsmen who professionally do this work have in their toolboxes made of aluminum, lightweight and with an ideal smooth surfaces... It is much easier to work with such tools than with wooden bevels.
	The plaster mix is made strictly according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer, that is, in compliance with the proportions of the dry construction mix and water, as well as the holding time of the finished solution and the period of its use. Work must be carried out at an air temperature of at least five degrees, otherwise the solution will quickly lose its plasticity. It is not necessary to knead a large volume of plaster mixture at once, since it, as well as from a low temperature, will lose its plasticity and proper adhesion. Due to the loss of these properties, it will be difficult to work with the mixture. The quality of the layer applied to the surface will be low. When mixing the plaster solution, the dry mixture is poured into the water prepared in the container (and not vice versa) and thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer.
	Further, the ready-made mortar is applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm on the upper horizontal part of the slope. This is done with a spatula or trowel. Then the solution is leveled with a bevel or a wide spatula. It should be noted that leveling this surface is a very difficult process, therefore, it may be necessary to apply the solution in several thin layers. Each coat must adhere well before applying the next one.
	It is somewhat easier to plaster vertical slopes. The solution is pounced on the wall from the bottom of it, starting from low tide. Having thrown the mixture to a height of about 200 ÷ 300 mm, it must be immediately leveled with a small one. Then, in the same way, the mortar is applied to the above section of the slope and is also leveled. And so on to the very top.
	The joints of the horizontal and vertical planes of the slopes are formed with mortar using an angled spatula. Traces from its edges are leveled with an ordinary spatula or trowel (trowel).
	When the main leveling plaster layer is dry, the surface is smoothed with a putty for facade work. The mortar is applied to the slopes with a thin layer of 2 ÷ 2.5 mm. Sometimes the top decorative layer is applied in two layers. The necessary alignment is made - the work requires accuracy, since it is desirable to ensure that no traces of the tool remain at all.
	Decorative plaster, which has a shallow relief, which is able to hide the shortcomings made when applying the base leveling layer of plaster, can also be used as the finishing of the slopes. If a smooth version of the slopes is chosen, then the applied putty is processed using a construction float, which will remove possible irregularities, and then smooth the surface. Then, the slopes must be primed again, and after the primer has dried, painted.
	In addition to decorative plaster or putty, an artificial stone or its polymer imitation can be the finishing of the slopes. Today on sale you can find corner elements from artificial stone or plastic (polyurethane or expanded polystyrene) specially designed for slopes, having a protective and decorative coating that imitates a stone surface.

Facade plaster prices

facade plaster

Decorative plaster is an excellent tool for interior and exterior decoration

With the help of this material, you can give both the facade and interior design a special originality. Technological methods of working with it are described in detail in a special article on our portal.

Finishing slopes with expanded polystyrene

Recently, the technology of finishing slopes with expanded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm has become quite often used. The advantage of this method is that the slope is not only leveled out at once, but also qualitatively insulated. However, installation of this material is possible only if the slopes have a relatively flat surface, since expanded polystyrene is a hard and brittle material, and when pressed against significant irregularities, it can simply break.

Installation work in this case is quite simple and may well be done independently.

To perform the facing work, the following materials will be required:

Polyfoam or extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 15 ÷ 30 mm.
Cement-based tile adhesive for outdoor use.
Metal perforated plaster corner.

From the tools you need to prepare:

Spatulas of different widths.
Styrofoam cutting knife.
Electric drill with mixer attachment for mixing tile glue.
Building level.
Ruler, building corner.

The work on facing the slopes with foam is carried out after the walls of the house are insulated and are carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the stages of work
	If the slopes around the windows are very uneven, it is recommended to "refine" them in advance with a cement-based plaster mortar. In this case, the leveling layer should not be too thick, since expanded polystyrene will be fixed on top of it. If the slopes are relatively flat, then the application of the leveling layer can be excluded from the list of operations.
	When the leveling layer hardens, you can proceed to the installation of polystyrene foam fragments. The best option would be to first fix the expanded polystyrene on the slopes, and then close the joint between the panels and the wall with a casing made of the same material. However, in some cases, the craftsmen prefer to join the cut out parts of the slopes with the platbands along the outer edge of the window opening, as shown in the illustration presented. Therefore, work can be started both with finishing the slopes and fixing the platbands.
	Styrofoam sheets are marked, drawn and cut into strips of the required length and width using a knife. The edges of the facing strips must be perfectly flat, so the cut must be done as carefully as possible so that the knife does not wiggle to the side. An uneven edge will definitely stand out after installing the cladding parts on the wall and spoil the whole look of the finish.
	When assembling cut out parts, the process should be monitored with the help of a building level, especially in cases where several fragments of material have to be combined in one line. The foam is glued using tile adhesive - it has excellent adhesion and therefore creates a good adhesion of the material to the wall. The glue is usually applied only to the wall, but if it is not even enough, then additionally it must be applied to the foam. It is advisable to spread the adhesive over the surface with a comb-type trowel - this is how optimal uniformity is achieved. It is necessary to press the material to the surface carefully, in order to avoid its breakage.
	The seams between the individual foam panels are filled with the same tile adhesive. As a result, the platbands fixed along the perimeter of the window opening should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	A glue solution is applied to the horizontal surface intended for installing the ebb, which will level it and close the joint between the wall and the expanded polystyrene panel. When the mortar has set, the ebb is installed in place and fixed on the window frame. After that, flush with the platbands, the cut strips of expanded polystyrene are fixed to the slopes with the help of glue. The joints of platbands and slopes should not have gaps between them, they must be completely closed with mortar.
	After the glue under the foam dries, the next stage is the finishing of the upper horizontal part of the slopes. An adhesive mass is applied to the front surface of the cut out part and its joint with the casing, on which a metal corner with a serpentine mesh is fixed. This element must be pressed tightly to the surface so that the solution protrudes through the holes of the corner and mesh. Then another layer of mortar is applied with a spatula on top of the corner and mesh, which should completely cover the reinforcing element.
	If the ebb is not planned to be installed, then the outer window sill should be strengthened, also by fixing a metal along the outer edge of the window opening perforated corner with serpyanka mesh. On top of the corner and serpyanka, a layer of adhesive solution is applied and leveled.
	Further, the mortar is applied with a spatula to vertical and horizontal panels of platbands and slopes. After that, perforated corners are glued to it, which will strengthen the protruding corners of the fragile polystyrene foam. The corners are lightweight, so they will stick well to the plastic glue solution.
	The next step is to apply a layer of glue on top of the corners, which should cover them completely.
	On top of the applied glue, between the corners installed on the outer and inner edges of the platbands, a reinforcing mesh is glued, which will make the final finish strong and resistant to mechanical stress. The mesh is first slightly sunk into the fresh mortar with your fingers, and then completely drowned in it by the efforts of a spatula. It should be completely submerged in the adhesive, although it usually remains visible.
	On top of the serpyanka, another thin layer of glue is applied, but already completely hiding it. After that, it is necessary to give time to dry it.
	In the same way, the slopes are finished, that is, glue is applied to the surface of the expanded polystyrene, then a reinforcing mesh, after which another layer of glue. After the solution dries, another layer is applied on top of it, which will completely hide the protruding edges of the corner and the protruding mesh relief.
	The photo shows how a window with slopes and casing made of expanded polystyrene will look like.
	To make the window look neat, the platbands are first covered with a primer, and then with paint for facade work, which will be in harmony with the finish of the walls of the house in color. Hydrophobic paints are best suited for painting plaster surfaces, which will protect the finish from moisture and other adverse effects.

Decorating slopes with plasterboard or sandwich panels

These materials can be combined in a general section, since their installation is carried out according to one simple scheme. Therefore, if you understand the technique of using materials, then it will not be difficult to cope with their installation.

Prices for moisture resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

1 - Moisture resistant drywall (or sandwich panel).

2 - Adhesive solution.

3 - Mineral wool.

4 - Starting L-profile made of plastic or metal.

5 - Outer corner or F-profile for finishing the outer corner of the slopes.

It is necessary to immediately clarify that as a layer between the wall and the panel, polyurethane foam can be used, which will simultaneously serve as glue and insulation.

When choosing for finishing the slopes of one of the named materials to carry out the work, the following tools will be required:

Sharp knife for cutting panels.
Ruler, square and marker for line marks.
Building level.

A few words must be said about the panels used for decoration, since they differ from each other in the material of manufacture. Therefore, for example, it requires additional finishing, and the sandwich panels are ready for use immediately after their installation.

Features of finishing slopes with PVC sandwich panels

Sandwich panels consist of two plastic sheets (polyvinyl chloride), between which there is an insulation filling made of expanded polystyrene.

The material has near positive qualities , thanks to which it is most often chosen for facing slopes:

- ease of installation;

- ease of maintenance;

- excellent thermal insulation qualities;

- resistance to external influences;

- durability;

- a fairly wide selection of material colors.

Sandwich paneling of slopes is carried out in stages.

The first step is to prepare the surface - dirt and dust are removed from it.
Further, the slopes must be treated with an antiseptic primer and wait until it dries.
In the next step, using self-tapping screws, the starting profiles are fixed to the frame, into which the ends of the drywall panels or sandwich panels will be installed. The width of the L-profile is selected depending on the thickness of the selected facing material. The profile is mounted around the perimeter of the entire window frame. Self-tapping screws are screwed in with a step of 200 ÷ 250 mm.

A wooden leveling strip is fixed along the outer corner of the slope - this is a strip having a width of 100 ÷ 120 mm and a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm. It is necessary to secure the outer profile, which will close the gap formed between the wall of the slope and the sandwich panel.

In order to close the end side of the panel, there is a special profile, which consists of two parts. One of which is attached to wooden plank, and the second is put on the end of the panel. These elements of the finishing profile are connected by snapping in the “thorn-groove” lock located along the entire length.
If there is a desire to simplify the task of decorating the outer corner, you can get by with the usual corner, which can be fixed on "liquid nails" or on self-tapping screws screwed into the wall. However, in this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws will remain in plain sight, which not everyone likes.

Then, according to the dimensions taken from the slopes, the facing panels are prepared.
Mineral wool is fixed to the wall with the help of "liquid nails". It should be noted here that this material must be set so that it has a varying thickness. So, closer to the window frame, a thicker material will be required, and along the corner, the thickness of the insulation should be minimal. Another option for insulation is to fill the space between the panel and the wall of the slope with polyurethane foam, which must be applied directly to the panel before installing it in place. But experience is needed here, since it is even easier to make a mistake with the amount of foam, and the lining of the slope can be "inflated". And the surplus that got on the front polyurethane foam able to leave traces, which will be difficult to completely remove.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Further, on the end top side of the side panels on the "liquid nails" is fixed a profile called "inner corner" - it is necessary for joining the vertical and horizontal top panels at the corners of the slopes.
After the side parts of the cladding are installed, mounting foam is applied to the upper horizontal panel, and then it is inserted into the grooves of the "inner corner" profiles and pressed against the slope wall. Temporarily, until the foam expands and dries, the panel should be fixed to the wall with masking tape or even supported with wooden racks.
The top panel can be finished with an F-profile or a regular decorative corner, which are fixed in place with liquid nails glue.
The protective film is removed from the panels before installing them in place of the cladding.

The specifics of using drywall for facing slopes

Probably everyone who has ever renovated an apartment or house knows about this material. GKL sheets consist in the same way as sandwich panels, of three layers - two external cardboard and internal gypsum.

Drywall gained its popularity due to several features. This is:

- affordable cost;

- ease of processing and installation;

- the ability to manufacture curved structures;

- moisture resistance of sheets of gypsum plasterboard;

- durability of the material with proper processing and subsequent finishing.

It is perhaps even easier to mount drywall slopes than sandwich panels, since there are several options for fixing it:

Installation of plasterboard parts on fixed on the slope of a wooden crate. But this option is possible if the slope has big enough width.

Fixing the cut-out panels on a special corner, which is screwed along the outer line of the frame.
If the wall is relatively flat and the gap between the wall and the window frame is small, then the plasterboard panel can be fixed directly to the wall.

When installing drywall, the screws are screwed directly through it. There is no need to mask them, since this material somehow requires additional finishing, which will hide the fasteners and joints between the parts underneath.

If it is planned to create an insulating layer, then the mineral wool is fixed in the same way as in the case of sandwich panels, and the foam can be launched into the gap between the wall and drywall through the holes drilled in the panels after the slopes have been installed in place.

Unlike sandwich panels, drywall installed on external slopes requires strengthening, therefore it is recommended to reinforce its surface with fiberglass mesh, according to the same principle as in the case of slopes insulation with foam.

The corners of the slopes must be reinforced with metal corners, which are fixed on a cement finely dispersed mortar (you can use tile adhesive for outdoor work).

Then, on the entire surface of the drywall, it is necessary to apply the plaster solution selected for the work, on which the reinforcing mesh is glued. The rest of the work is carried out according to the same principle as when finishing the slopes with foam. It is quite obvious that the advantage of drywall is that when using it, you can significantly reduce the time for leveling the surface.

Find out how to make internal ones with step-by-step instructions from our new article on our portal.

There are other ways to finish external slopes. So, plastic or metal panels with a set of profiles specially designed for their installation are gaining more and more popularity. Such slopes are mounted according to the same principle as sandwich panels, and the empty space between the wall and the cladding is also insulated with mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam.

Thanks to modern materials and various auxiliary elements that appears at the disposal of home craftsmen, it is possible to choose the most suitable option - according to the degree of complexity of installation, in terms of operational and decorative qualities, and simply in terms of affordability.

As an example, take a look at another interesting technology - ready-made profile "thermo-slopes" from expanded polystyrene.

Video: A quick and convenient way to insulate and finish external window slopes

One of the important details of the exterior decoration of the house is the decoration of plastic windows from the outside, using various facing materials and building mixtures. This seemingly small stroke completes the appearance of the facade, in addition, the details for finishing have whole line technical functions.

Methods and materials used for outdoor work

There are a number of ways to decorate windows, let's take a look at the most common ones.

Plastering slopes - the cheapest and easiest option

So, you can improve and refine the design of plastic windows using:

plastering slopes;
sandwich panels;
sheet plastic;
cellular plastic;
natural or artificial stone.

The first three types of work are the most common, while the last two materials are not used very often, at least for this purpose.

Plastered slopes are most preferable if you want to save your budget as much as possible, or if you plan to install more perfect cladding in the future.

After removing the old foam and additional elements, all the cracks must be foamed again

To correct this situation, follow these steps:

remove internal slopes;
remove the outer slopes where the mounting foam protrudes;
remove the damaged foam, and re-seal the cracks with a new one;
remove all paint from the slopes;
remove ebb and foam all found cracks and pores;
it is convenient to seal all chips from the outside with tile glue, which is sold in every hardware store;
at the last stage, putty should be applied so that all the polyurethane foam is hidden from eyes and external influences. This is the main point of finishing the external slopes of plastic windows.

Necessary accessories and additional elements

For the exterior decoration of windows and window openings, in addition to the facing material itself, various additional elements and accessories for plastic windows are used. Let's consider, using the example of sandwich panels, what may be required in the process of work.

For outdoor use, it is most preferable to use white sandwich panels based on expanded polystyrene or foam

White color;
thickness - 1 cm;
insulation - extruded polystyrene foam;
outer sheet - hard PVC with a thickness of 0.7 mm;
inner sheet - hard polystyrene.

Metal drips for external cladding of a window opening

For improvement appearance additionally, decorative additional elements are used, which are various types of corners:

C-profile - white, dimensions - 2.6 x 2.6 cm;
CL profile - white, dimensions 2.6 x 4 cm;
J-profile is a technical element for the previous two profiles. Serves as a mechanical lock.

If the sandwich panel cannot be brought behind the window frame in any way, then the outer cladding is supplemented by the installation of starting profiles:

U-profile - white, attached to the frame itself;
PZ-profile - white, attached to the frame with a special groove at the end.

Finishing with cover strips

If the decoration of plastic windows outside is made in a house of wood, then the process of carrying out installation works has a slightly different look. This is obvious, because even externally, the opening for a PVC window in a panel or brick house differs from the same opening in a house made of wood.

The strips are quite easy to attach and protect the ends of the glass unit well

When carrying out outdoor work, it will be necessary to install ebb and flow covers. Exterior finishing should be started only after the interior is fully completed.

In particular, the ebb from the outside is placed after the installation of the window sill inside the house. It is necessary to observe the observance of the horizontal - the ebb is set, focusing on the readings of the building or laser level.

It is best to install and finish plastic windows in dry weather - after all, it is undesirable to expose structural elements to moisture before the installation is completed.

In addition to the ebb itself, you will need tools such as:

screwdriver;
scissors for metal;
measuring tape;
marker;
square;
self-tapping screws 2 cm long.

The length of the ebb is determined by the width of the opening - plus the ebb must have an additional length of 5 cm on both sides. The ebb should be cut exactly at right angles. The edges of the ebb are bent down.

It is important that after installation, the strip fits snugly against the opening in the upper part and the ebb in the lower

After these manipulations, the ebb must be brought under the frame and raised all the way so as to get into a special groove. Then the ebb is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. Along the place under the ebb, you need to walk with polyurethane foam. It is best to apply it with a special pistol.

Quite important is the fact that the ebb fits snugly to the bottom of the window. If the ebb is installed below the frame, then you need to additionally use a stand profile - this will increase the protection against moisture.

The ebb is installed so that the joint between the frame and the ebb is as tight as possible. Violation of this rule will lead to the fact that the polyurethane foam will not be protected from external influences. What this leads to, we have already described above.

At the final stage exterior decoration the plastic window is gluing the strip. This element is a strip for covering the polyurethane foam. Before gluing, the foam must first be cut off. It is not necessary to use any adhesive material, since the strip is a self-adhesive element. The only rule when performing this stage is that you should not stick at temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius.

The final view after the installation of the ebb and the cover strip

Let's describe the process in stages:

measure the height of the opening;
cut 2 strips of the required size;
we clean and dry the surface on which the strips will be glued;
partially remove protective film, and partially glue the strip - we continue this way until now, until we reach the end.

After that, it remains only to remove the protective film from the plastic windows.

Cladding using expanded polystyrene

Refining of external slopes can be carried out different ways... It makes no sense to describe them all, therefore, we will give as an example, a cladding using extruded polystyrene foam.

Facing with extruded polystyrene foam of the window opening along the perimeter

So, to implement this method necessary:

expanded polystyrene;
glue solution;
tools and components for plaster and putty.

Now we will describe the whole process step by step:

Slope technology

When finishing a window with a near-window strip or reproducing any other finishing method, it is important to correctly install the slopes. It is better to perform these works after it has been carried out. This will give a complex effect in the form of increased energy savings indoors.

The whole process begins with installation in window hole start profile. The slope is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and mounting tape. After that, it is carried out finishing.

Before installing the slope, the window sill should be installed - this is done because it is simply impossible to do it in the reverse order. If the slopes are placed on metal-plastic frames, then this means the inadmissibility of using plaster.

Therefore, before finishing, it is advisable to consult with specialists about which material will have the greatest adhesion to the surface to be finished. Most likely, PSUL tape or strips would be a more suitable option.

Now you know how to make a plastic window trim. For a professional, any type of work described above will take only a few hours. Independent work can take longer - the main thing is to ensure maximum compliance with the installation technology.

If you want to see what a competent finish of plastic windows looks like from the outside - the video will show you all the nuances in a visual way.

The interior of our house or apartment consists of details - floor, walls, ceiling, furniture, windows. The absence of any element will violate the whole harmony of the interior, but poor-quality or hasty implementation is even worse! Finishing external and internal slopes windows is one of the important stages of repair, when you should think over all the options and choose the best one.

How to trim window slopes - starter kit

To begin with, you must decide for yourself which finishing option you are ready to implement, taking into account your skills in handling tools and materials. In total, the methods can be divided into 3 categories:

with preliminary plastering;
on a frame base;
on an adhesive or cement base.

Glue finishing material to the base of the slope on an adhesive or cement composition is also a fairly quick option for solving the problem with slopes. However, this option is not always possible due to the high degree of destruction of the doorway or the lack of skills in handling materials.

Decorating window slopes with your own hands - technical nuances

It doesn't matter which finishing option you choose - in any case, you need to prime the wall. Even if you decide to make a frame, a primer is needed - it will prevent the material from shedding, make it more durable and resistant to moisture. The primer is applied in several layers if you do the plastering.

It is important to expose beacon profiles for plastering. For this, a small amount of gypsum solution is mixed, which should be immediately applied in several spots to those places where the profile will pass. After fixing the profile to the mortar, level it with a level until the gypsum has completely set. As soon as the plaster hardens (20-30 minutes), you can start plastering.

The plaster is applied in several layers. First, spray is done - mixed with a large number water, cement with sand is sprayed onto the base in a small layer. For spraying in small amounts, you can use a regular broom or a large bristle brush.

When the spray is dry, the first layer of plaster is applied. The main requirements for it are to close the main irregularities and drops. When it is completely dry, you can start applying the penultimate layer, the task of which is to carefully level the surface. Then you can either apply another, final layer of putty (for wallpapering, for painting) or prime the surface and apply Finishing work using decorative materials.

The drywall frame is made using wooden slats or a special profile, which are exposed in the same plane and at one degree. It is best to fill the void inside the frame with thermal insulation. After plastering with plasterboard, a thin layer of putty is applied to the material for the final leveling, which, after drying, is processed with sandpaper.

Options for finishing window slopes - how to finish?

In finishing the slopes of windows, you can use almost any materials remaining after the main renovation works: laminate, wallpaper, wood, parquet board, cork. The heavier the finishing material, the stronger the base should be. For example, for wallpaper, laminate or parquet boards a frame base lined with plasterboard or MDF boards is quite suitable.

Both for internal and external finishing of window slopes are used different materials and technology. To be able to make a choice, you need to consider all possible options.

Why do you need to trim slopes

Installation of windows for repair and construction works do not end. The deformation assembly gap, nowadays usually filled with polyurethane foam, must be protected from the destructive effects of time and weather. Finishing of window slopes inside and outside contributes to additional heat and sound insulation and allows the window itself to function correctly: glass does not freeze and does not "cry", and moisture does not condense on the slopes themselves. Well, you should not forget about the decorative function, which gives the room inside and the building outside a finished and neat look.

How and what to decorate the slopes on the windows inside the building

Plaster is the most common option for finishing slopes

Very often, plaster is used to finish interior and facade slopes. It should be noted that this method has justified its purpose for many years. Plastered slopes have a large margin of safety and are durable. They can be painted, pasted over, decor applied. The disadvantage of such slopes is poor thermal insulation and rather high hygroscopicity. Therefore, it is recommended that, along with plastering the slopes, it is imperative to carry out the "window-slope" joints. It should also be borne in mind that the thickness of the plaster layer should not be more than 2 cm in one application, as this will lead to the formation of cracks.

Regardless of the chosen plaster composition (cement-sand, gypsum, polymer, glue, etc.), the process of finishing slopes includes several basic unchanged stages: preparation of the slope - removing dust, greasy stains, mold; priming - removing dust residues and increasing adhesion; applying, in fact, plaster - leveling; reinforcement with mesh (fiberglass or metal) - imparting strength; application of the final, finishing layer - finishing, painting, decor.

Plasterboard finishing of window slopes

Increasingly, internal window slopes are trimmed with plasterboard, because this material allows you to do the job quickly and very smoothly. Required condition- drywall must be moisture resistant. The advantages of finishing slopes using drywall include: affordable cost; ease of installation (using polyurethane foam, special glue, on metal or wooden frame); ease of making arched openings; possible subsequent finishing with any materials. Additional antiseptic treatment and window sealing increase the lifespan of the slopes and reduce the risk of microcracks, mold and mildew.

The most important thing when finishing window slopes with plasterboard is taking measurements. The slope must adjoin the frame very tightly.

After that, pieces corresponding to the removed dimensions are cut from a sheet of drywall using a construction knife.

Installation of prepared canvases is carried out with glue, metal carcass or on polyurethane foam. The condition of the initial slopes requiring finishing depends on the method of installation of drywall. This can be assessed visually.

Advice! Stick the vertical stripes first. If necessary - fix the structure with a few dowel-nails ("quick installation") - it will not be superfluous, especially with a significant (more than 1.5m) window width.

After that, a perforated corner is mounted and the slope is finished.

Important! The space between the plasterboard panel and the window opening must be filled with mineral wool, plaster, adhesive or polyurethane foam.

Decorating slopes with PVC panels and sandwich panels

This method of finishing is very beneficial, because PVC and sandwich panels are durable materials, easy to process, easy to install and maintain. Also, finishing with this material increases the functionality of the windows themselves, due to the same coefficient of expansion of the material of the window and the slope, which prevents the formation of cracks.

The technology of arranging PVC window slopes and sandwich panels is very simple.

Preparation for installation - usual - removal of excess foam, dirt and dust, treatment with a deep-penetrating primer and antiseptic.

After that for plastic panels a special guide or "starting" profile is attached to the window frame, and a metal or wooden frame is assembled (as for drywall).

Installation diagram of slopes from plastic panels

Cut-to-size PVC panels are inserted into the guide profile and fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws or construction brackets (if the frame is wooden). The outer edge of the slope is closed with a decorative corner.

Finished PVC panel slope

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