Do-it-yourself installation of mdf panels on the wall is a practical and effective way to decorate a room. Do-it-yourself wall decoration with mdf panels Technology of laying mdf wall panels

This article will be useful to those who decided to do self-assembly wall MDF panels, as well as those who for some reason doubt their abilities. MirSovetov will tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels, and share with you detailed photo report on the installation process.
MDF is a close relative of chipboard. It is also made from wood shavings pressed and bonded with special substances. It is only thanks to the special technology of hot pressing that MDF has higher ratings in operation and does not contain resins and phenol. Because of this and not only, MDF, which appeared quite recently, instantly became popular and in demand. Walls, ceilings, niches are sheathed with MDF panels. True, despite the environmental friendliness, they are most often used when decorating the walls of corridors, balconies, offices, cafes, bars and are avoided during repairs. living rooms... The thing is that after covering the walls and ceiling with MDF, the feeling of a "standard box" is created, and many people do not like this state of affairs.

Advantages and disadvantages of MDF

The most significant, in my opinion, the advantage of MDF panels is ease of installation. Even without special skills, you can easily cope with the task. In this case, no preliminary preparation of the walls is required. The installation itself is a finishing, and the process is incredibly low-dust (especially in comparison with). Easily and quickly you can also dismantle both all panels and one damaged one.
But this is far from all the advantages of MDF panels. They provide excellent sound and thermal insulation (especially on external walls with additional insulation). Easy to clean with a regular damp cloth. Durable and environmentally friendly. The panels have an original look and an incredible range of colors: wood, stone, brick - for every taste. Well, a nice range of prices - for any wallet.
I will not hide the shortcomings. MDF panels have low moisture resistance - wood is wood. Although there are now special series of durable panels for the bathroom and kitchen. It is they who can be successfully used in the country. The second drawback is low strength. Of course, you won't sell them with your fingernail, but this is not! A strong kick with a soccer ball can spoil all the beauty. But, as mentioned above, the damaged panel can be easily dismantled. And lastly, MDF panels burn well and quickly. Therefore, you need to be careful with fire, and the wiring should be "hidden" in a special self-extinguishing corrugation, which will extinguish the spark in the event of a wiring fire.

Tools and materials

We need a hammer drill, MDF panels, self-extinguishing corrugation for electrical wiring, a screwdriver, SD (ceiling) and UD profiles, glue, bugs (screws), 25 mm self-tapping screws, ceiling, suspensions.

Step-by-step installation process

Let's move on to practice. As mentioned above, there is nothing complicated in the installation itself, but some of the nuances are worth knowing.
Let's start by preparing the walls. Actually, no special preparation is required. To begin with, tear off the wallpaper (if any) - you can not try hard, the main thing is to remove those that easily peel off. Further, I recommend treating the walls with a primer - it will prevent the spread of fungi, this is especially important for rooms with high humidity and external walls. If there is a desire and urgent need, you should paste over the walls with insulation. Penofol A foil is perfect. It is similar to wallpaper, but 5 mm thick. It is glued to the wall with glue, but not overlap, but end-to-end! And the shiny side needs to be glued inward, so the room will keep warm like a thermos.
We sheathe MDF with standard "treshki" panels in a nine-storey building. Outside walls there is no dampness in this corridor, so the owner decided to refuse the insulation.
We start the installation from the ceiling. Using the hydro level, we find the lowest point of the four corners. We retreat 4-5 cm, draw a horizontal line, and fasten the UD profile to the wall by quick installation 60x6 mm.

I often see frames from wooden planks... I prefer to make the frame from profiles, because wooden blocks, under the condition of an unfinished tree, will "lead" over time, and MDF will "swell". I saw a similar case - the owners, driven to despair, had to start repairs, as they say, from scratch.

Now we attach the hangers to the ceiling at a distance of 600-700 mm from each other. Suspensions are fastened using a "quick mounting" fastener 40 or 60 mm long. Pre-drill holes in the ceiling with a 6 mm drill.

Next, we attach the SD-profiles to the suspensions as follows.

Such a frame is universal: both MDF and plastic can be attached to it, or. In our case, we attach MDF panels. To do this, we buy a paste for MDF and self-tapping bugs. But before you start installing the panels, you should stretch the electrical communications under the ceiling lights.

The first strip is attached to the corner profile with self-tapping screws, and on the other side it is fixed with clamps (to all frame profiles), which are attached to the frame with bugs. In this way, it is typed pretty quickly - one panel after another.

And we mount the lamp. There will be no problems with these, a comprehensive instruction is attached to the lamps.

Now about the walls. First of all, everyone electric wires hide in special corrugations - they will prevent a fire in the event of a short circuit or a spark in the wiring.

Next, we make a frame on the walls. Using all the same suspensions, we attach vertical supports from the SD profile to the walls (in the corners, near doors and openings). The top of these profiles is attached to the UD profile (which is attached to the finished ceiling), and the bottom to the UD profile attached to the floor.

Now about the horizontal profiles. Usually builders mount them according to the principle (at the level) "knee-butt-shoulder". That is, at the level where the blow is most likely. Approximately 600-700mm apart.

This is how the frame should turn out.

When passing from a large corridor to a small one, we will build an arch. First, we make a frame. We buy a special arched UD profile and attach it to the frame as follows:

This is what the finished arch frame looks like.

We start to type MDF panels.

The installation principle is still the same - on the adhesive. Do not save, do not glue MDF, do not fasten with nails / screws. MDF must "breathe", so use the clamps - they are exactly what you need.

After the arch is completely sewn up with MDF panels, a plastic arched corner is glued to the joints. It bends easily, and there will be no problems with gluing. You need to glue it on liquid nails. In order for the corner to "grab" well, we fix it with mounting tape. By the way, after a few hours the tape can be removed, only very carefully and slowly so as not to damage the MDF surface.

And here's what happened as a result:

Light, cozy and smells like wood.
Happy renovation!

Wall decoration with MDF panels in recent times is becoming more and more popular, due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly put in order the surfaces of a sufficiently large area. In addition, the installation of panels does not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering work. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called quite affordable price on him.

Do-it-yourself MDF panels, wall installation, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for fine-dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material, including wall panels. The production of MDF consists in the process of dry pressing of finely dispersed mass from sawdust and shavings, using high temperatures and pressures. To bind the mass, urea resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so it is not prohibited to use them for interior decoration premises. The principle of installation of panels is similar to the installation of natural wood, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - by fixing them to the frame lathing or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition of the "liquid nails" type. This glue is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, since it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the glue mass should be selected by color so that the sealed areas do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to the design of any interior. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, therefore, before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you will need to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare in advance the tools that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
Building level and plumb line.
Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, simple pencil or marker.
An electric drill, screwdriver, or even a regular screwdriver.
Construction stapler.
Hammer.
Pliers.

The main methods of installing MDF panels and the materials required for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Installation of panels on walls can be carried out in two ways:

Kleev.
Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

It takes very little to mount the panels on glue supporting materials- this is the composition of "liquid nails" and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall using MDF cladding, while hiding communications behind it or carrying out insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile... It must be said that it is easier to mount MDF on wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When installing panels on a metal profile, self-tapping screws for metal will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap will inevitably form between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very "attractive" for mold and mildew. Therefore, before installing the lathing, it is imperative to revise the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such a cladding on external thin walls at all, since it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will eventually be created in the room, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials are required:

A wooden bar treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
Insulation material - polyethylene foam of the selected thickness.
Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

Cleamers for fixing panels to the frame.

Small nails or staples.
Dowels for fixing brackets (hangers) or directly guides to the wall.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Fitting profile elements - corner and skirting board. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparation of the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to cover a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for the installation of MDF panels, then both for the frame system and for gluing, approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out. It consists of several operations:

Cleaning the wall.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be removed completely, otherwise in an enclosed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpaper, which is difficult to remove, must first be soaked in water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or painted with high quality water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

Wall treatment.

In the event that there are mold stains on the wall, the surface must be "cured" - treated with a special Anti-Mold compound or with the usual concentrated means for whitening linen - "Whiteness". Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dry, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment must be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the base, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.

"Treatment" of the affected parts of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

Sealing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or "weak" plaster, cracks are found on the wall, then they are recommended to be repaired, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become cold bridges, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.

Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to adhere well to the crack opening, it needs to be slightly widened and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of the old plaster and processed with a brush.

... and then tightly filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to fill the expanded gap to its full depth.

Surface priming.

The next stage is the priming of the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Obligatory operation - thorough priming of the entire wall surface

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a soil, which include not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall using a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

Installation of insulation material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. Penofol, which is glued to the primed surface, is well suited for this purpose.

The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today on sale you can find self-adhesive "penofol" - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If no such material was found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied evenly on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. "Penofol" canvases are pressed to the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Bonding the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Installation of the frame structure

Marking

If it is decided to install MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the crate guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the battens are mounted vertically. Conversely, if the panels are to be mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed over the insulation material. The step between the lathing guides is usually chosen within 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly evenly.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a painted cord, with which straight lines are beaten off the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal, I use the level. The most accurate result will be given by laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction tool, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a painted cord.

According to the markings carried out, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the crate guides.

When marking, it must be borne in mind that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, while maintaining the set step.

Wooden frame

Wooden blocks, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the wall thickness by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and to this parameter the thickness of the lathing bar is added, given that the self-tapping head is completely sunk into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the lathing to the same level if the wall requires leveling with the lathing, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to suspensions. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden blocks and metal profiles.

Suspensions are first attached to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between the adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Suspension shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two beams, extreme on the wall, are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with the horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become reference lines (beacons) for correct installation the rest of the guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared to the size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes, for the rigidity of the structure, inlays are made in them from a bar. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will be adjacent to it.

If the installation of the frame is carried out on wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the lathing guides are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different wall base is necessary, then the suspensions are best fixed with hammer-in dowel-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the cladding will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations of sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall to be finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked out using a tape measure and a building angle, corresponding lines are drawn along which a cut is made using a jigsaw, a manual vertical circular saw, or even an ordinary hacksaw.

The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will continue to be skewed.
The starting panel is installed with a spike in the corner and is fixed to the guides from the corner side in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the lathing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. Using metal frame fixing the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with the subsequent installation.

For a start, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. A mandatory leveling adjustment of the panel is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise alignment, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
This continues the cladding to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in thickness so that it freely fits into the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

The panels are installed horizontally from the floor to the ceiling, and the first sheet must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate follows exactly the same principle as in the vertical arrangement.

A round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm) is cut in advance in the panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed. Drilling is carried out using a core drill.

The socket must be securely fastened and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a rigid support against the wall, it is recommended to additionally secure wooden fragments of a suitable thickness from the rear side. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed on cladding panels or to the corresponding socket on the socket.

Installation of MDF panels on glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how you plan to install it.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain sufficiently flexible even after initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition must be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature extremes.

- The adhesive must have a sufficiently thick consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option is glue like "liquid nails"

The composition "Liquid nails" meets these requirements in terms of the main parameters. The primer with which the walls are pre-treated will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will firmly adhere to it.

The glue is applied to the back of the MDF board in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the applied glue is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to "weather" the glue for 3 ÷ 5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is again installed and pressed in the right place, and is held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back of the panels in a dotted or “snake” manner

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. Having smeared, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, the second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing the canvases, they need to be pressed very well to the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed with the next spike to be installed.

If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait for the glue under the lowest fixed panel to dry well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the rest of the canvases. If there is no waiting time, then the panel can also be tied to the wall with self-tapping screws.
The last mounted panel, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured out, drawn and the excess part is sawed off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
The finishing elements of the installation are fitting corners and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the joints of two planes on "liquid nails", closing the caps of the screws that fasten the panels at the corners of the wall. In the same way, these hardware elements are fixed around the door and window openings(if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued on the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fastening the skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Find out how to do it by reading step by step instructions in the article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having familiarized yourself with the technological process of installing MDF panels, you can, summing up, formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to merits such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

Quite simple installation with the ability to mount panels both vertically and horizontally.
A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
When installing MDF panels on a frame crate, cable communications can be hidden behind them.
With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially with the right combination of shades.
Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
It is easy to care for the MDF finish, since it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

Disadvantages similar panels include the following points:

With such a finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or grooves are almost always formed at the joints, depending on the panel design.
When fastening such a cladding to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, if there is insufficient preprocessing or other unfavorable conditions, dampness can accumulate, the development of microflora unsafe for humans is possible. Very often, especially if the walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes favorable place for nests or paths of movement of rodents.
The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the cladding begins to damp, the panels may swell and the cladding will begin to deform.

Nevertheless, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. The installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, and, moreover, who has absolutely no experience in such work, if, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And in conclusion - a small "visual aid" in the form of a video clip about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls

MDF panels are widely used not only due to their low cost and environmental friendliness. Do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels is simple; it requires only elementary accuracy and precision. It is possible to create a MDF coating with good decorative qualities without being a carpenter or finisher; the skills of a home craftsman are enough.

What is MDF?

MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fibreboard - English, HDF - German) is produced from woodworking waste. But they should not be confused with fiberboard or particleboard. MDF is produced by dry hot pressing of wood, without binder. The essence of this method is that the microscopic tubes and lignin fibers that make up the wood, under high pressure and temperature, become plastic, as if steamed, adhere and stick together. The structure of MDF is similar to felt, only not from wool, but from wood fibers.

MDF does not differ in special mechanical properties, but, due to the absence of a chemical binder, it is absolutely environmentally friendly. For interior decoration, MDF is ideal. Techniques for working with MDF are the same as for wood. MDF is glued with any wood glue. Especially for MDF, an adhesive composition “Liquid Nails” has been developed - a construction glue filled with sawdust, which allows both gluing and filling cracks and sealing holes with self-tapping heads.

Note: MDF panels are produced with a decorative outer coating. When buying liquid nails, make sure that the tone of the hardened composition matches the tone of the MDF panels used. The sample is a frozen drop on the lid of the can, or from the seller.

Tool for work

In addition to the usual household tools, you will need a plumb line (it is easy to make it yourself from a nut, not a fishing line or thread), a tape measure, a building level and a drill attachment for screwing in screws. It is quite possible to do without a special screwdriver. You also need a locksmith's square (metal, with legs of different thickness). It will be convenient to cut pieces for slopes along it: a thick leg is used as an emphasis, and based on a thin one, a cut is made.

To cut MDF, you need a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. The saw is good for its compactness, convenience - it is similar in size and shape to a hair clipper - and versatility. By changing complete circles, you can cut wood, metal, stone. But a saw with a cutting depth of more than 12 mm or more is more expensive than a jigsaw; the thickness of MDF is 16 mm.

Installation technologies

Important: if the room for MDF finishing at least once once was damp, if traces of biting, swelling or peeling of the plaster are noticeable, if the plaster is bumpy, uneven or its layer is more than 12 mm, then before MDF finish the plaster must be removed to the main wall. In any case, it is advisable to remove the plaster - this will reduce the cost of fasteners and will reveal hidden defects in the walls. Of course, the skirting boards also need to be removed.

Two technologies are used for the installation of MDF wall panels:

On a wooden crate;
On a frame made of special galvanized profiles.

It is easier to make a wooden crate, it requires less hardware for fasteners, but wooden slats, or even a slab, are more expensive than a metal frame. In addition, wooden lathing requires preliminary impregnation against fungus, rot and mold. In damp rooms and in brick houses it is definitely not recommended to use a wooden crate: moisture and fungal spores can penetrate from the outside simply through the pores of the brick, and the cavities between the cladding and the wall are an ideal environment for the development of pests.

For the metal frame, you will need UD profiles (guides) and CD. Both of them are U-shaped and differ only in the configuration in the section. For the CD profile, sellers often offer mounting ends ("ears") and connectors. Their use makes sense when performing a large amount of work in a limited time. When self-finishing one or two rooms, it is quite possible to do without them. How - will be described below.

Learn more about the crate and its methods.

About thermal insulation

In the process of decorating a room with MDF panels, it makes sense to additionally insulate it by filling the crate cells with foam plastic on construction foam or silicone. The foam protrusions are cut off with an assembly knife.

In addition to the actual insulation, this will give additional protection against the accumulation of condensate in the voids and the development of tree pests. MDF is the same wood, and is also susceptible to their effects, although to a lesser extent.

In summer, when the building warms up, the flow of heat into the room will significantly decrease. Just MDF on the frame - a single heat shield with a reflectivity of about 0.25. With a foam layer - double screen. The reflectivity of the foam is more than 0.7; accordingly, no more than (1 - 0.7) x (1 - 0.25) = 0.225 heat will enter the room through the walls against the previous one. The outflow of heat through the walls in winter will decrease by the same amount.

Considering that the heat exchange through the walls is at least 0.15 of the total heat flux, one can expect a reduction in heating / air conditioning costs by at least 10%, and this is a tangible value in the budget at the existing tariffs.

If more serious internal thermal insulation is planned -.

Lathing

Fasteners for lathing

The wooden crate is attached to the wall either with self-tapping screws or with mounting nails (dowel nails). The dowel-nail is similar to a self-tapping screw with a smooth asymmetrical thread profile. It is driven into a plastic clip-socket with a hammer. On the head of the dowel-nail there is a slot for a screwdriver, so that, if necessary, it can be turned out. The metal crate is fastened only with self-tapping screws.

For fastening the lathing, fasteners with a diameter of 4-6 mm are used. The stronger the base wall, the smaller the required diameter. Each self-tapping screw or dowel-nail is equipped with a plastic socket. Holes in the wall for fasteners must be drilled according to the diameter of the nest body; elastic protrusions are not taken into account. The socket is hammered into the hole with light hammer blows.

The body of the fastener (nail, self-tapping screw) must sit in the main wall for at least 30-40 mm. For example, if the thickness of the plaster layer is 12 mm and a rail or profile with a thickness of 40 mm is used for the lathing, the thickness of MDF is 16 mm, then the length of the hardware must be at least 12 + 40 + 16 = 68 mm. Those. fasteners are needed with a length of 70-80 mm. The depth of the holes for the nests is equal to the length of the nest + 15-20 mm for dust and chips. In this case, 100 mm. If the drill is longer, you should put on a restraining tube on it. But do not drill too deeply: the thickness of the walls between the rooms can be half a brick, it is less than 200 mm with two layers of plaster.

Wooden lathing

We start the wooden crate with the installation of vertical racks. We put the racks in all corners, in pairs, so that they form an angle, and along the edges of window and doorways from floor to ceiling. We verify the verticality of the racks with a plumb line.

After attaching the stand, we outline it on one side with a pencil on the wall and drill holes for fasteners with a drill on concrete or stone with a pitch of 500-700 mm. We drive the nests for fasteners into them, mark their position on the rack with a pencil. Then we drill holes in the rack with a diameter of 2/3 of the diameter of the fastener and attach it in place. For more experienced craftsmen- the holes in the racks are drilled in advance, and the marking of the holes in the wall is done right through them.

Further, in a similar way, we mount horizontal logs with the same step. Each piece of the log is fixed with the same pitch as the rack. On the top of the openings and under the window sills, we must install logs, regardless of whether they are "one step" or not. We also form the slopes of the openings with slats, along the inner and outer edges, without crossbars. The final stage- the ledges at the joints of the rails are removed with a plane.

Note: when lathing the ceiling, note that MDF panels are located along the racks and across the lags. That is, if the cladding panels on the ceiling will be located along its short side, then the ceiling lathing must be done parallel to its long side, and vice versa.

Metal crate

The metal lathing is made in a similar way: racks in the corners and openings, then the crossbars. The step of the lathing is the same as the wooden one. The racks are made from the UD profile, the CD profiles are inserted into them and pushed into place. Then the CD, after aligning with a level and a tape measure along the horizontal and step, are attached to the UD, and then to the wall, in the holes pre-drilled in it.

The parts of the metal lathing are connected to each other with short self-tapping screws. The CD is also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Dowel-nails cannot be used: the fasteners will either not be finished off, or the profile will be distorted. The pieces of the CD profile are connected in advance to the desired length.

Note: work on a metal crate is best done using a small grinder or a hand-held circular saw. With an electric jigsaw, even with a metal file, the work is delayed and a lot of rejects are obtained.

Ears and connectors

"Ears" CD are made as follows: at the ends of the mounting pieces of the stick "P" cut to the width UD to the crossbar plus 2-3 mm. The cut should be done a little obliquely, so that from the ends of the "sticks" to the edge of the profile there is also 2-3 mm more than from the crossbar. Straight cut or back cut CDs may get stuck during insertion. "Ears" will be needed if the crate is made from CD only. If the racks are made of UD, then the CDs simply slide into them.

For CD connectors, we measure in advance its own piece of the required length. One connector requires 100-120 mm profile. If, for example, you need 10 connectors, they will take 1 - 1.2 m CD. The "P" sticks for CD are not straight, but curved inward. This bend must be cut off by the same 2-3 mm. Then we cut the workpiece into the required number of pieces.

Connect the CD as follows: the connector piece is pushed halfway into one of the joined profile pieces, and another piece is pushed onto the remainder. The connector will, of course, go into the spacer; there may be a small gap between the pieces to be joined. This is not scary, the work on the cladding will not stall and complicate from this.

Sometimes it is advised to additionally secure the connection with self-tapping screws; it is overkill. During installation, it already holds firmly enough due to friction. In the future, the connector will not fall out - the wall will not let - and will not slide sideways, because inserted with spacer.

Note: for communications - pipes, wiring in wooden slats or metal profiles, the crate cut grooves in place. Before the lathing, it is necessary to measure the height to which the communications protrude above the wall, and choose the thickness of the lathing elements by 5-10 mm more.

MDF paneling

Striker and Claymers

MDF panels are connected by a symmetrical tongue-and-groove lock in the form of a ridge and a corresponding groove. MDF panels can be fastened to the wooden crate with small nails, hammering them obliquely into the corner of the groove. To the end, the carnations are finished off with a metal striker and a hammer. It looks like a center punch for metal, only at its narrow end, instead of a point, there is a shallow depression along the head of the nail. A nail striker can be made from a center punch by removing the point on an emery wheel and carefully screwing on drilling machine deepening.

For fastening to a metal crate (and to a wooden crate when working according to a standard scheme), glue is used. Claymer - a small metal bracket to the hole for the fasteners and teeth that press the flange of the tongue groove. The glue is inserted into the groove of the MDF panel until it stops, and fixed with a self-tapping screw. Fastening with staples is more expensive and requires a lot of labor, but it is more reliable, and the cladding, if necessary, can be disassembled without damaging the MDF.

Installation of panels

Installation of MDF panels on a crate is much easier than preparatory work:

We start from the corner. We cut the required number of MDF panels to size for sheathing the mounting plane to the nearest rack. We go through the corners of the cuts once ("shirk") with sandpaper.
On the first panel, we cut off the tongue groove, and fix it in the corner with nails (on a wooden crate) or small self-tapping screws (on a metal one). From the side of the lock groove, we fix it with studs or stamps.
Put on the next panel, slide the comb into the groove, fix it along the groove, etc., until the last two panels remain.
The last panel is cut to length in size, with a grip of 2-5 mm, depending on which corner or plinth the final finishing will go.
Cut the ridge of the last panel in half and round it off.
We insert the last two panels into place with a “house”, press until they “snap into place”.
Push the last panel all the way onto the penultimate one; fix with self-tapping screws at the free edge.

Note 5:"The last two" is a responsible operation and requires some skills. It is advisable to pre-train on MDF images. If the training "house" gets stuck, you can pry it by the joint with a screwdriver.

MDF panels for walls - boards made of wood fiber by dry pressing of wood chips. The construction material differs in medium density, and to give it a high degree of strength, sawdust is mixed with urea resins and processed with high temperature and significant pressure. Finally, the MDF panel is further processed to obtain aesthetic appeal.

Features and Benefits

MDF for walls is harvested using the same technology, but the finish of their surface is always different, in this regard, several types of these panels for walls can be distinguished:

created using as decorative finishing natural veneer coverings. Products are distinguished not only by excellent durability and reliability, but also by their high price.
panels are the most popular and demanded of all types of material. To create these panels, melamine film is used. This allows you to simulate the structure natural wood so popular when decorating the walls of a room. For improvement appearance the plates are pasted over with a high-gloss film.
Technical, service rooms, workshops and garages are finished using painted MDF panels. In this case, the decorative coating is a layer of paint. There is no imitation of the tree structure on such models.

MDF panels are distinguished by improved technical characteristics... When creating them, the manufacturer does not use harmful resins rich in phenol.

After crushing and processing wood chips, the resulting dust is processed under the influence of high temperature in special ovens. The process lasts until the release of lignin, which ensures the adhesion of raw materials.

The main advantages of the MDF panel are:

attractive price;
the ability to use both for leveling the surface of the walls, and for decoration;
ease of installation without the help of a qualified specialist;
strength;
reliability;
resistance to mechanical damage;
ease of care.

There are several ways to fix MDF wall panels in the course of work related to decorating the surface of the walls inside the room. One of them requires the assembly of the frame and lathing, while the other requires special glue for wall panels.

Fastening to the frame

To assemble a high-quality frame and lathing, wooden bars or a metal profile are used. Both structures are necessary for fixing decorative material in the design of residential and office premises. Methods for attaching panels to the frame allow not only to visually change the internal space, but also to hide certain defects found on the surface of the walls. When choosing how to fix it, you need to take into account the degree of unevenness of the base. Significant flaws in the form of voids, dips or bumps can be corrected with a high-quality frame and lathing.

Fastening the wall panels to the frame is necessary in the course of work related to leveling the surface. In rooms with high humidity, only a metal profile is used for the construction of the frame. The structures of the lathing allow for the installation of additional insulation. The frame for fixing the panels with your own hands in a dry and warm room is assembled from a wooden bar: prepared wood (bars with a section of 30x40) must be installed and fixed strictly vertically around the entire perimeter of the room.

The very first (starting) profile is attached directly to the floor, the second to the ceiling. Having installed horizontal profiles along the entire perimeter of the room, proceed to fastening the vertical guides. The distance between the bars does not exceed 60 cm.This is due to the fact that the dimensions of the MDF panels are as follows:

width ranges from 153 to 200mm;
the length depends on which company is the manufacturer; this parameter reaches from 2 to 2.6 m;
thickness from 5 to 14 mm.

Installation features

Installation of MDF panels, metal profiles or bars starts from any corner of the room by laying individual elements vertically or horizontally. If it is necessary to create additional noise or heat insulation, insulation plates are placed between the battens of the battens.

The distance between the slats in this case depends on the parameters of the used thermal insulation material. It is less than the width of the insulation by 2-3 cm, which allows you to tightly lay the mineral wool slabs.

Each MDF panel is equipped with a special groove for installing cleats and attaching to the frame. The frame itself is fixed with "crabs" and brackets. Fastening MDF panels to the wall cannot be called a difficult process if the frame of the structure is assembled correctly and strictly according to the level.

When creating a lathing, it is important to remember that fasteners (screws), or rather their length, are selected taking into account the thickness and height of the bar or profile. The self-tapping screw must be inserted into the wall to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Before constructing the frame, you need to determine the highest point on the wall surface and from this value set the vertical and horizontal. All work is carried out under the constant supervision of a building level equipped with a spirit level. It is necessary to check not only the horizontal and vertical, but also both diagonals on each wall sheathed.

The dimensions of MDF panels are of great importance in the case when it is decided to attach them to the wall using a frame, and when performing work using a special adhesive, certain types of panels are chosen.

It is more difficult than sheathing a properly assembled frame with such panels.

Glue mounting

Before fixing MDF panels to the wall, you must:

Clean the surface of any dirt, dust, remnants of old coating in the form of paint, wallpaper or cracked plaster.
All areas to be restored must be plastered again.
After the mortar has completely dried, prime the wall for maximum adhesion.

Knowing how to fix MDF panels to the wall, you can complete all the work in the shortest possible time. It is necessary that the surface is not only carefully prepared, but also absolutely flat. It is necessary to glue MDF panels on the wall in such a way as to ensure full adhesion and avoid air getting under the constituent structures.

If tiled or ceramic tile glued to the walls in one motion and cannot be dismantled and re-glued, the peculiarity of the process of gluing MDF panels is that the future cladding cannot be glued immediately. It must be pressed against the wall, held for a few seconds and torn off. Then let the glue dry slightly and re-attach the panel to the wall surface. It is possible to glue MDF only by applying considerable force when pressing the panel.

In case of improper or poor-quality preparation of the wall surface for gluing MDF panels, the fixation will not be strong and durable.

Panels with adhesive applied to their surface should be laid on a clean, dry, absolutely flat and smooth wall... The quality of the cladding also depends on how correctly the first panel was glued. It must be fixed in strict accordance with the vertical mark made using a plumb line or laser level level.

The final stage is the installation of plugs and other decorative elements. The inner corners are fixed with glue. Its color is matched exactly to the tone of the finishing material and applied with a thin snake, trying to avoid the appearance of excess on the panels after pressing the corner.

You can study in detail all stages of the work by watching the video.

Interior decoration using MDF wall panels is very popular due to the many positive qualities possessed by this finishing material. This is not only an opportunity to perform all the manipulations without the involvement of qualified specialists, but also to increase the strength and reliability of the structure. MDF wall panels allow you to change the interior space of the room, making it attractive and increasing its aesthetics.

The choice of wall cladding can cause headache because of the huge assortment that the modern market offers. Now consumers prefer safe materials, but not everyone can afford them. MDF panels are an environmentally friendly material and at the same time relatively inexpensive, therefore they are chosen quite often. How the walls are decorated with MDF panels and what are the features of the material, we will consider in the article.

The planks are suitable for cladding any room: kitchen, bedroom, corridor, living room. The panels are used for cladding in the presence of curved walls, since the structure hides flaws and does not require careful preparation, which saves on the purchase of additional materials.
Planks are made by pressing under the influence of high temperature. This is how small particles stick to each other. If you install the planks on the frame, then you can lay an additional layer of thermal insulation for the room. This is especially true for apartments with poor heating and private houses.

Another savings point is ease of installation. For installation, it is not necessary to call specialists, the work can be done on your own. After installation, the panels do not need to be processed additionally - they are completely ready. Where there are advantages, there are disadvantages. MDF panels are no exception. Their surface can be scratched if handled carelessly. They also do not tolerate strong blows.
In the event of a fire, the slats will support combustion. Therefore, the wiring must be insulated very well. In order for them not to be burned, they are treated with special compounds, but these are additional costs and work.
But, despite this, the panels will last for many years.

The main thing is not to use brushes or detergents with abrasive components. Planking the cooking area in the kitchen is also not allowed.

Panel types

Like any material, MDF panels are classified into groups according to some criteria: texture, size, shape, manufacturing technology.

There are several ways of making slats:

Whole-perfected;
Laminated;
Moisture resistant.

Solid-pressed, as the name implies, are made by pressing small particles of wood. Such planks will last a long time, they are durable and smooth. The decorative properties of such panels are immediately evident.
Laminated panels are also made by pressing, but after manufacturing the strip is covered with a special film. That is why this type has a rich selection of colors. Only the finest wood fibers are used to make waterproof planks. They can be installed in rooms with high humidity: kitchen or bathroom.

In their form, they are distinguished into:

Rack;
Tiled;
Leafy.

Rack bars are very easy to install, so they are purchased most often. For installation, a frame is required, which is simply filled with panels. The length and width of the slats are different, you can choose the required size for a room with any area.
Tiled strips are like regular tiles, only with a larger area. The tiles are installed in the same way as the slats - on the frame. It's kind of cassette ceiling... Leafy can reach large sizes. Most often they are decorated with drawings.

According to the texture, the planks are subdivided into:

Veneered;
Glossy;
Painted;
3D panels.

Veneered planks imitate natural wooden surface... MDF sheet is covered with veneer, which is made from various types of wood. This type is distinguished by its high cost.

Glossy panels are covered with a film to achieve the desired effect. As you know, glossy smooth surfaces are much easier to clean. However, any damage on such a surface will be visible to the naked eye.

Painted planks are not often used for cladding, although paint adds variety, more often furniture is made from painted planks.

The surface of the planks can be glossy or matte. Drawings imitating various materials are applied to 3D panels. Volumetric drawings or photos are also applied. Such panels can be made to order, it all depends on your imagination.

How to choose panels

Before work, you need to calculate the amount of material. However, you should not buy the material end-to-end; buy several panels in reserve in case they are damaged during operation or during transportation.

Calculating the amount of material is easy. Measure the total wall area and divide by the size of the panels. This is how you get the number you want. The cost of the planks depends on the pattern and characteristics. Waterproof 3D glossy panels will cost the most. Do not buy thin panels, their thickness must be at least 1 cm.

Preparing walls for paneling

Careful preparation for the frame structure is not required. The main thing is to treat the wall with an anti-fungal compound. Everything else depends on your personal desire. But still, if you spend anyway renovation work, it is better to put the wall in order. Moreover, over time, this will become much more difficult. This is especially true for stains, the longer they remain on the surface, the more difficult it is to remove them.

The preparation process consists of several stages:

Essential tool for the job

During the installation process, you will need plumb lines that can be made from rope and weights. For marking you need a level and a tape measure. For mounting a screwdriver and an electric drill. If it is necessary to cut the panels, then use a jigsaw. It is also suitable for cutting metal parts.

Installation methods

You can install the strips on a metal or wooden frame, as well as with glue. The choice of frame material depends on the room. So in a room with high humidity it is better to use metal, and in a private house it is wooden.

Installation on glue assumes a flat surface, therefore preliminary work the preparation of the wall must be carried out completely and with due diligence.

Glue

Installation on glue does not take much time. But later, if a separate strip is damaged, you will not be able to reach one panel without damaging the others.
The glue is applied to the panel in thin lines in three to four rows and glued to the wall. It is not necessary to press with effort, a little pressure is enough. This fills the entire wall. Excess glue must be removed immediately, before they are dry.

Frame

Decide in advance on how to install the panels: horizontal or vertical installation. The frame profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

For the horizontal arrangement of the frame, the marking lines are applied using a level, and vertical using plumb lines. The frame guides are set at a distance of 50 cm.

Wooden frame

The bars are installed on the wall using dowels. A hole is drilled in the strip, a dowel is inserted into it and a self-tapping screw is screwed. Fasteners are placed in increments of 40 cm.

Metal carcass

The metal profile is also attached to self-tapping screws. First, it is pressed against the wall and the location of the screws is noted, then holes are punched and then the profile is screwed on. After installing it, suspensions are attached to it.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall. The evenness of the subsequent installation depends on the location of the starting bar, so check it with a level. Use a tenon to fasten the panel in the corner to the guide profile. Additionally secure it with self-tapping screws. Next, the spike is installed in the groove of the previous panel. Thus, the wall is completely filled. The last plank usually needs to be cut. It is fixed with self-tapping screws and subsequently closed with decorative corners.

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