How to plaster walls with your own. How to plaster walls

What materials for insulating a balcony or loggia will effectively cope with the task at hand? I suggest you consider 5 heat insulators with which I happened to work. I will tell you what qualities they are selected for and why they are considered the best.

Types of thermal insulation materials

Balcony insulation can be done with the following heat-insulating materials:

Option 1: mineral wool

Mineral wool is a roll or slab material that consists of thin mineral fibers. The latter are obtained by melting and spraying rocks or blast furnace slag.

Specifications:

To insulate the balcony from the inside with a frame method, you can use glass wool, which is cheaper than basalt wool. In this case, during its installation, it is necessary to carefully protect the respiratory organs, eyes and hands.

Advantages:

Versatility. Basalt wool can be used to insulate a balcony inside and out. Moreover, the insulation of surfaces can be carried out both as a frame method and wet:

Let me remind you that at frame insulation panel or sheet finishing materials are used - drywall, plastic panels, lining, siding, etc.;
When finishing with a wet method, the surface of the insulation is plastered;
Plates of high density grades can be laid even under a screed for floor insulation;

Environmental friendliness. Basalt wool does not contain harmful substances, and even during installation, unlike glass wool, it practically does not irritate the skin;
Water vapor permeability. The insulation allows the walls to "breathe", due to which a favorable microclimate is formed in the room;
Fire safety. Minvata does not burn and can withstand high temperatures.

Disadvantages:

Absorbs moisture. When performing insulation work, it is necessary to provide high-quality vapor-waterproofing;
Price. The price of basalt wool is higher than some other heaters.

Price:

Expanded polystyrene is a light polymer insulation, one of the most common thermal insulation materials due to its low price

Option 2: expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene, or simply polystyrene, is a polymer insulation in the form of plates formed by small granules.

Specifications:

Advantages:

Low weight. Polyfoam is the lightest plate insulation;
Low price. The cost is significantly lower than the price of basalt wool;
Versatility. Like basalt wool, it can be used for insulation in any way, both inside and outside;
Resistant to moisture. The material absorbs moisture to a lesser extent than mineral wool.

Disadvantages:

Zero vapor permeability. This deficiency can lead to an increase in indoor humidity, mold on the walls, etc. High-quality ventilation will help to eliminate it;

Fire hazard. Foam manufacturers, especially little-known ones, rarely add flame retardants to the polystyrene foam. Therefore, it is quite flammable and burns well;
Low strength and fragility... This disadvantage is important if the insulation plates after installation will be plastered. Surfaces insulated in this way are not shockproof;
Low environmental friendliness. By itself, the foam does not threaten health in any way, but in the process of combustion it releases toxins. Inhalation of these substances leads to severe poisoning.

Price:

Option 3: extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam, aka penoplex, is made from the same raw materials as ordinary foam. However, thanks to a special insulation technology, it has higher characteristics.

Specifications:

Dignity. From the data in the table it can be seen that penoplex has low thermal conductivity and high strength. In addition, it has some other advantages:

Moisture resistance: Penoplex absolutely does not absorb water, therefore it does not need waterproofing;
Fire safety. Everything famous manufacturers they add fire retardants to the composition of this material, which makes the insulation for the balcony slightly flammable.

Disadvantages:

High price. For this reason, it makes sense to use penoplex only in cases where a large load will be exerted on it, for example, in the case of wet insulation of walls and ceilings. You can also perform thermal insulation of the floor under the screed;
Low vapor permeability... The coefficient of vapor permeability of foam is slightly higher than that of foam, however, all the same, the material is not "breathable".

Price:

Option 4: polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is another type of polymer insulation. His main feature lies in the fact that it is applied to the surface in the form of foam.

Specifications:

Polyurethane foam is also used to insulate a balcony in the form of polyurethane foam. With its help, thermal insulation of all kinds of cracks is performed.

Advantages:

Low thermal conductivity. As can be seen from the table, polyurethane foam has the lowest thermal conductivity. In addition, it is applied to the surface in a continuous layer, due to which it more effectively retains heat in the room;
Resistant to moisture. Due to this quality, it does not require the use of waterproofing;
Good adhesion. This allows you to apply insulation to any surface.

Disadvantages.

Requires special equipment. You cannot apply polyurethane foam with your own hands. This procedure should be carried out exclusively by highly qualified specialists with special equipment;

Zero vapor permeability. Like other polymer insulation, the material does not breathe;
Increase in thermal conductivity over time. The gas that fills the polyurethane foam structure gradually leaves the shell. As a result, its thermal conductivity increases slightly;
High price... In addition to the cost of the material itself, the cost of insulation work is added to its price;

Impossibility of plaster... It is possible to decorate the balcony from the inside or outside, in the case of using polyurethane foam, only in a frame way;
In liquid form, toxic... When working with polyurethane, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment, as it is toxic. After hardening, the material is safe for health.

Price. Have different manufacturers the price of insulation with polyurethane foam is different. On average, the cost, taking into account the work, is about 500 rubles. for 1m2

Option 5: penofol

Penofol is a thin roll of insulation, which consists of two layers:

Foamed polyethylene - acts as a heat-insulating material;
Foil - reflects heat from insulated surfaces into the room.

Thus, this material is used only for internal insulation of the balcony and loggia.

Specifications:

Advantages:

Little weight. The material is easily attached to any structure;

Resistant to moisture. This allows you to use penofol as a waterproofing material if, for example, you insulate a balcony or loggia with mineral wool;
Small thickness. Thanks to this, the material does not take up additional space in the room.

Instructions for the use of penofol require its location during installation with the foil side to the room. Otherwise, the material will not reflect heat from surfaces.

Disadvantages:

Zero vapor permeability. I have already spoken about the consequences of this shortcoming;
High thermal conductivity. Penofol is a thin material, therefore it is not enough for full-fledged insulation of the room. Therefore, it is usually used as additional thermal insulation.

Price. The price starts from 50-80 rubles per 1m2.

That's all the heaters that I wanted to acquaint you with. Well, now you yourself have to decide what and how best to insulate the balcony.

Output

Now you know all the basic qualities of the most common thermal insulation materials, and you can do it yourself right choice... I recommend watching the video in this article. If you have any questions, write comments, and I will answer as soon as possible.

The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people begin to equip their balconies for an additional room, for example, Personal Area... For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation constructions from the inside.

In this article, we will look at three ways using different materials.

Balcony insulation stages

Insulation of the balcony from the inside is performed in the following sequence:

# 1. Thermal insulation of a balcony with expanded polystyrene: a sequence of works

If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:

No. 2. Balcony insulation with foam (video)

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of premises. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

Mounting on polyurethane foam

So. The waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied to the insulation plate along the perimeter. It's enough. After application, we wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next slab is stacked to the first end-to-end. After two days, you can fix the slabs with additional dowels. Further, the whole process is repeated in a similar order, which is described above. Do the finishing at your discretion. You can sew up insulation plates plastic panels, they look very original.

Additionally, we fix the slabs with dowels

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential things on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The process of warming the balcony is over. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done this, share your methods with your readers in the comments.

No. 3. Thermal insulation of a balcony with mineral wool: technology features

Thermal insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

It is a well-known fact building recommendation carry out insulation with outside building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to arrange the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials, so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the outrigger structure.

Thermal insulation of a balcony with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate the balcony and? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?

V modern technologies for insulation of open curtain structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Consider technological features installation and types of wadded insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Photo: mineral wool with aluminum foil

Important! During installation, the foil should be located on the side of the room. The internal heat of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any kind of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between outside wall(ceiling, roof) and frame supports. As supports, you can use wooden sticks or metal profiles, depending on what kind of cladding will be used in the future.

Lathing from metal profiles

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little the inner space of the balcony by installing sticks of rectangular rather than square cross section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

Wooden lathing

All racks and horizontal battens are installed under the level. Anchoring of uprights to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal supports are attached to vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

Insulation laying

Note: before installing the insulation, the walls are treated with an antifungal primer.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. The cotton material itself is breathable, it easily permeates gaseous substances (air, steam).

The insulation must be protected from getting wet

Considering that for internal insulation the point of formation of condensation shifts into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the construction wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is placed between the mineral wool and the finish.

Interior decoration

Purpose interior decoration:

Close the heat insulator material from the living space.
Create an aesthetic interior wall covering for a room or a heated loggia.

There are various materials for interior decoration of balconies (drywall, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lathing frame, finishing is performed by hanging different types panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

Lining made of plastic wood

Finishing with clapboard is performed by cladding the walls with wooden (or plastic) carriage panels that have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and tightness of fastening. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitation of a wooden coating laid on the inner walls of a balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and stiffness.

Plastic panels are easy to assemble

Wooden carriage panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, and have sufficient rigidity for the floor covering. The ceiling of the loggia can be sheathed with plastic clapboard, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of carriage covering (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Finishing with wooden clapboard

After finishing the finish, the inner surface is treated with a compound that protects the wood from moisture and destruction.

The creation of a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. Floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

self-insulation (personal experience)
... Most useful from youtube
On the example of Moscow

Heat insulator selection

The advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
Polyurethane foam (PPU);
Styrofoam;
Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw material:

Stone;
Slag;
Glass.

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material fits into the prepared structure. The frame for installation can be made of metal profiles or wooden blocks.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminium foil allows you to improve the level of thermal insulation.

When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed towards the interior of the room. This principle allows heat to bounce off the aluminum cover and return to the room.

This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire, does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.

The main disadvantage is that moisture is destructive, a vapor barrier is needed.

Pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before purchasing. Moisture adversely affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the space of the loggia be dry.

Heaters based on polymers

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compositions.

Advantages:

The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a low weight of the plates;
High degree of moisture resistance;
The materials are durable;
Antifungal resistance;
Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (foamed polyethylene);
An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as insulation.

The main disadvantage: support the spread of flame in case of fire, emit harmful substances during combustion.

When choosing foam and other polymer-based materials, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

If planned winter operation space, in this case, choose a thickness of 50 mm. The density is determined by the further coating - for the putty, a value of 25 kg / cu. m.

1. Foam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) during installation.

Styrofoam refers to budgetary ways insulation of the loggia, however, is considered a rather fragile material, therefore, a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; for its installation, the creation of a special frame is not required.

2. Penoplex

Plates of extruded polystyrene foam (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. Seams between elements are closed polyurethane foam... Penoplex is attached using special disc dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator; also, with the help of penofol, it is possible to provide vapor barrier to polystyrene foam. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and trapped in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high in comparison with other analogs, but many managed to evaluate the operational properties of polyurethane foam. This insulation is characterized by high levels of thermal insulation, due to its fine-pored structure.

Spraying of polyurethane foam is carried out by specialists, on assembly work one day is enough; it also does not take much time to completely dry.

The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round necessary:

1. Close up the gaps if any. Study the room carefully to eliminate any flaws in the structure. As a rule, the slots are filled with polyurethane foam, even if they are of considerable size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Organize a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - "Penetron", "Aquaton", etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become resistant to unfavorable weather to the maximum, and the strength characteristics improve.

The device of the waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the smallest surface cracks that may not be visible visually.

4. Heat insulating layer. To organize a warm structure, we use the selected material (polyurethane foam, penoplex, polyethylene foam, polystyrene, etc.).

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, you should use special polymer membranes ("breathing"), as well as films "Rockwool", "Izospan", penofol.

When using penofol, lay the insulation in such a way that the side covered with foil is directed towards the interior of the room. If this condition is met, the heat will be constantly reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.

6. Final finishing of walls, floor and ceiling surfaces.

WITH detailed description each stage can be found in the article: .

Balcony room decoration

The goals of creating interior decoration:

External masking of the heat insulator;
Organization of a favorable indoor environment in the room.

To create a balcony interior, you can choose various options finishes. For the finishing layer, plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect.

Lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden lathing frame.

The walls of the loggia are sheathed with clapboard, flooring- laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of sheets of gypsum plasterboard on metal profiles. Plasterboard can be wallpaper, painted, or decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over sheets of gypsum plasterboard.

Bamboo wallpaper. The base for finishing is plasterboard.

Video

1. The result of the loggia insulation.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical leads. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, finishing the walls with putty. Concrete screed the floor on top of the insulation slabs.

2. Stages renovation works on the balcony.

Consistent process of furnishing the premises. Scheme of wall insulation with polystyrene and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, sheathing with OSB boards, installation of laminate lamellas.

Don't know how to insulate a balcony in order to spend minimal funds and get an excellent result? Then this review is for you, it describes simple options carrying out work that any person can do. If everything is done correctly, then your balcony will be warm even in the most severe frosts.

Preparatory part of the work

First of all, you need to prepare the room for insulation.

At this stage, several important activities are performed:

Space is freed from all unnecessary... It is best if the balcony is completely empty, then nothing will interfere with the work. If there is an old finish, it is worth removing it in advance;
All cracks and voids are sealed... This is a very important part of the work, since a lot of heat is lost through loose joints. Small cracks are sealed with weather-resistant sealants. Larger joints are best filled with polyurethane foam, it will not only prevent moisture from entering, but will also serve as an additional heat insulator;

The floor and, if necessary, the walls are waterproofed... In new buildings, this part of the work may not be required, but if your balcony is damp, then extra protection will not hurt. The easiest way is to use a special bitumen-based mastic, which is applied in a thick layer to the floor and the abutment of the walls to a height of 20-30 cm. The composition dries for about a day, at this time you cannot walk on the surface;

Cracks and irregularities in the ceiling and walls are repaired cement mortar ... The smoother the base, the easier it will be for you to carry out the work. There is no need for special accuracy, the main thing is to patch up all the irregularities and level the surface.

Floor insulation

Considering the question of how to properly insulate the balcony from the inside, we will start with this part of the structure. Work can be carried out in two ways: by laying insulation between the logs and by pouring the screed. I'll cover both options, and you choose the one that best suits your situation.

Let's start with the option of warming along the lags, the instructions for doing the work with your own hands looks like this:

For work you need the following materials: bar for logs, waterproofing for the base, insulation, vapor barrier and topcoat. As a heater, I recommend using polystyrene, its price is low, but the quality is quite suitable for such work. There will be no load on the material, so you can choose sheets with a low density;

Waterproofing material is laid on the floor... Even if you've applied a mastic coat, an extra moisture barrier won't hurt. The film should extend to the surface of the walls by 20-30 cm, and have gaps of at least 100 mm at the joints. For additional reliability, I advise all connections with ordinary tape;

Lags are laid... The distance between them should be equal to the width of the insulation so that you do not get waste, usually it is 50-60 cm.As for the height, it should be no less than the thickness of the insulation, I recommend putting a layer of 10-15 centimeters in order to reliably protect surface from cold. After exposing the elements, all joints are filled with polyurethane foam, it serves as both insulation and fastening;

Insulation is placed between the beams... If you have several layers of material, then the joints between the sheets, if any, should not coincide. Try to lay the foam as tightly as possible so that there are fewer voids and crevices on the surface;

All gaps between foam sheets and beams are filled with foam... This allows you to achieve the best quality insulation. The foam is carefully applied wherever it is needed, in 2-3 hours after it dries, the excess can be cut off with a construction knife;

Fastened flooring... Under it, you can lay a vapor barrier, or you can immediately lay a board or sheet materials. If the base is waterproofed reliably, then by and large there is no point in an additional protective layer.

Consider the second option for carrying out the work.

In this case, floor insulation is done in a completely different way:

All necessary materials are purchased... For simplicity and clarity, all information is presented in the table;

Material	Selection recommendations
Insulation	It is best to use Teploplex insulation (it is also called Technoflex, Teploflex, Penoplex, etc.). It has a very high density and has a higher heat retention rate than foam. Styrofoam can also be used high density but it is still less efficient
Waterproofing	Any suitable material of this type is used. It is necessary to lay the film both under the insulation and on top of it
Reinforcing mesh	To make the screed strong, it is worth laying a special metal mesh... Also purchase beacons for pouring the screed, you can take both special elements and metallic profile for drywall
Screed mortar	The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made mixture in bags, which is simply diluted with water before use.

To make the screed even more reliable, use a special damper tape. It is laid around the perimeter and allows you to create an expansion joint.

A waterproofing film is being laid... It is placed with overlaps on the walls, and overlaps of 10 cm are made on the joints;
Insulation sheets are laid on top... They need to be placed as tightly as possible to ensure high-quality thermal insulation of the surface. Extruded polystyrene foam is more convenient than polystyrene, since it has grooves at the ends that allow you to combine the sheets very accurately;

The film is laid, and on top of it the mesh... Everything is simple here, at first the surface is waterproofed, and then a mesh is placed on it. To make the surface durable, make 5 cm gaps at the joints of the mesh;
Beacons are attached, and the screed is poured... Lighthouses are leveled and fixed to the same mortar that will be used when pouring the screed. After that, you need to wait at least 12 hours, after which the solution is poured. Everything is easy here: it is evenly distributed over the surface and leveled using a rule or an even wooden lath.

If you will make a warm floor on the balcony, then after laying the insulation, instead of the film, it is better to use a material with a reflective layer. A floor heating system is placed on top of it, after which beacons are exposed and a screed is poured. The layer thickness must be at least 3 cm to ensure strength.

Ceiling insulation

This part of the structure can also be thermally insulated in two ways: with and without a frame.

To begin with, let's analyze the process of insulating the crate:

The necessary materials are collected... For work you need wooden block, insulation, polyurethane foam and finishing material. The height of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
A crate is being built on the ceiling... The elements are fastened using quick fixing plugs of appropriate length. In order to set the structure strictly according to the level, slats or pieces of board are placed under the bars. The installation process itself is simple: holes are drilled in a step of 50 cm, after which dowels are inserted and spacer screws are hammered;

Insulation is laid in the crate... Styrofoam or extruded boards are cut exactly to size so that the elements are held in the structure and without additional fixation. Mineral wool can also be used, in this case it is better to choose products of medium density;

All cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam... The composition fills all the voids so that the cold cannot penetrate through the cracks. Do not worry about neatness, all excess can be cut off with a construction knife after the composition has solidified;

The finish is fixed last.... The frame can be sheathed with plastic panels, wood, plywood or moisture resistant plasterboard. It all depends on what kind of interior was conceived, and what you want to see in the end.

Now let's figure out how the ceiling is insulated without a frame:

First of all, the surface of the ceiling is prepared.... At this stage, you need to clean the base from dust and dirt. If there are gaps at the joints of the slabs, then it is best to seal them up with polyurethane foam. The surface is also treated with a strengthening primer, it will improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition and provide a more reliable fixation of the insulation;
A special adhesive is applied to Penoplex... Used glue in balloons, which is reliable and easy to apply. You do not need to apply it in full - distribute a little of the composition around the perimeter and in the middle. An example is shown in the photo below;

The sheet is glued to the ceiling... Everything is simple here: the element is located where it is necessary, and carefully pressed against the surface. Usually it is worth holding the sheet for 20-30 seconds, after which it will hold on normally, and you can continue to work and attach the next fragment;

For reliability, the material is additionally fixed with dowels... Uses special fasteners with a wide pressure washer . The fungi are attached according to the following scheme: two elements at the seams and one in the middle, so the consumption will be small, and the reliability of installation will not suffer. Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled for the dowels, the layout and the finished result can be seen in the picture below;

Crevices and joints are foaming... Everything is clear here: if necessary, the joints to the walls and the joints of the sheets are sealed with polyurethane foam. It is applied wherever needed. After drying, the excess can be cut off with a construction knife;

Attached last finishing ... Personally, I am the most practical solution seems stretch ceiling- it costs a little now, the masters will come and put it on in a couple of hours. If you want to attach the trim to the lathing, then the bar will have to be nailed to the ceiling through insulation.

Wall insulation

Considering the question of how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside, one cannot but tell about the walls. They need to be insulated very carefully, especially those surfaces that go out (most often this is the space under the window and one or two side walls).

Wall insulation technology is as follows:

First of all, materials are prepared... We need a block for the frame, insulation, and also a waterproofing membrane. To improve the effect, you can attach a polyethylene foam material with a reflective layer called Penofol over the insulation;

A waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the outer walls... It is not necessary to fix it on the walls adjacent to the living quarters, since cold air does not come from there, which can cause condensation. The material can only be fixed at the top and the joints can be glued. Its final fastening will occur during the installation of the lathing;

A bar is attached to the surface... Its height should be the same as the thickness of the insulation. On interior walls you can attach the material thinner, and on the outside, it is advisable to lay at least 10 cm in order to create a reliable barrier to cold. Accordingly, under the window the crate is made with an indent from the base, and on the other walls it can be nailed with dowels directly to the surface;

Insulation is laid in the resulting structure... Everything is simple here: polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam is cut into pieces of the required size and neatly placed in the crate. It makes no sense to additionally fix it. It is important to remember that if you are laying the material in two layers, then the joints should not overlap;

Not worth using for work mineral wool... It is both more expensive and worse tolerates temperature and humidity changes that often occur on balconies.

All joints are filled with polyurethane foam... Apply foam to all the crevices that you find, the composition will not be superfluous and will help to achieve best result when insulating a balcony or loggia. The advantage of foam is that it can fill both small gaps and voids up to 10 cm in size, which is especially important on balconies of complex shapes;

Reflective material is attached on top of the insulation... This stage is optional, but I recommend that you close at least the outer walls in this way, and preferably all surfaces, if possible. The material is neatly straightened and fixed with a construction stapler or self-tapping screws. To ensure the best effect, the joints are glued with special foil tape;

On top of Penofol, a counter-lattice with a thickness of 20 mm is attached and a finishing material is attached... Everything is simple here: the frame is nailed on top of the main supporting structure... Any finishing you choose is attached to it - from lining and PVC panels to drywall or other sheet materials.

Output

Anyone who reads this article can easily figure out how to insulate the balcony with the best quality. The process is very simple, and the video in this article will clearly show some of the stages of work and will help you understand them even better. If you need to clarify something on the topic, then write all questions in the comments at the bottom of the page.

Correctly executed finishing external walls can radically change the style of a building, make it presentable and well-groomed. Today, the construction market offers enough varieties of finishing materials, facade plaster occupies a significant place among them. Such finishing of the building will help not only transform appearance buildings, but also prevent the appearance of defects on the surface of the walls.

Facade decoration with plaster has the following advantages during operation:

Types of plaster for facades

Acrylic based plaster, also called polymeric. This type of plaster is elastic and resistant to temperature fluctuations. The operational period of this material reaches 25 years. The composition of acrylic plaster contains certain biocidal additives, which protects it from various kinds of microorganisms. Also, this material is quite resistant to ultraviolet rays.

As a disadvantage of this type of plaster, you can determine its vapor permeability, for this reason it is not recommended to use it with basalt wool. Also, acrylic plaster tends to get dirty quickly, while it is washed off by rain rather badly.

Silicate type plaster. Finishing the facade of the house with this type of plaster allows you to use it in the process of warming facades, if the method of insulating fastening is used. The service life of the material is 25 years. Such plaster, due to its elastic structure, has good crack resistance. It also washes quite well when dirty, which allows it to have good view... However, this type of material is not recommended for use with foam lining, as the foam will not breathe in this case.

Mineral plaster... Thanks to the cement in its composition, this plaster is the most durable among all types of this material, and its cost is the most acceptable. It has vapor-permeable characteristics, so it can be applied over basalt insulation and foam.

But the mineral type of plaster also has its drawbacks. Its service life is relatively short - only 10 years. In addition, the material is not resistant to cracks and has little elasticity.

Silicone veneer... Such decorative plaster of the facade of the house is currently the most technologically advanced. Silicone-type plaster is elastic, vapor-permeable, has a sufficient stretch index. It will not be difficult to wash off pollution from it, due to which it can be used for finishing the facades of buildings that are located near the road. But the cost of such material is quite high.

Decorative plaster... Its task is mainly to implement various design ideas. With its help, you can achieve embossed and smooth surfaces a wide variety of shades. In addition, using decorative plaster you can create imitation of more expensive types of finishes.

Facade decorative plaster photo:

In order to correctly apply a layer of plastering, it is necessary to take into account a number of key features process:

Layers of plaster mortar should be applied to the work surface in layers of the same thickness. Otherwise, the surface will dry unevenly, and a thin layer will not be able to hide the unevenness of the wall.
Without fail, before starting work, you need to prepare the surface of the wall and clean it from dirt. If this condition is ignored, the adhesion of the plaster and the base will be poor, and the applied layer will turn out to be uneven.
Do not plaster walls that are frozen. In this case, ice forms, which will prevent the composition from fixing, and when it melts, the material will lag.
Hot weather is also a forbidden condition for work. Plaster at high temperature will dry quickly and may develop unwanted cracks.
It is not recommended to take breaks during work. This can lead to stains on the walls. When finishing with colored plasters, you must immediately prepare required material for the entire treated surface.
In order to understand how much material is required, one should proceed from the area to be treated and the average consumption, which is declared on the packaging by the manufacturer. You should also add an additional 10% of the material for possible losses during work.
Consumption of plastering material is determined by the grain size. You will need a larger volume of fine-grained material, but the composition used is sufficient to process a larger area of the wall.

Preparatory work

Before you perform the process of plastering the facade with your own hands, you need to make certain preparatory steps. Let's consider them in more detail:

Finishing technological process

When decorating the walls of the facade, it is very important to pay attention to the temperature of the work surface, which should be between 5 ° C and 30 ° C. Also on air humidity - this indicator should not exceed 70%. Remember that you should not carry out the finishing immediately after precipitation, especially on time. Also, do not perform work in case of direct sunlight hitting the wall surface. For the rest, you should adhere to the following sequence of actions:

Plaster can be applied in two ways: manually, using tools specially designed for this purpose, or by using plaster stations.
To carry out the finishing mechanically, you need to pre-install the necessary scaffolding, as well as scaffolding and hanging cradles. The necessary instruments and solutions should be prepared immediately.
Finishing should begin with the application of leveling plaster.
After that, it is necessary to wait until the material has completely solidified.
A polished effect can be achieved if desired. To do this, put putty on a flat surface and wait until it hardens. Then we sand the wall to a shine.
Following this, the surface of the wall must be coated with a primer. This will make it possible to reduce the amount of finishing composition. Also, the use of a primer will ensure good adhesion of the plaster mortar, fix and polymerize, make it homogeneous.
After the primer has dried, we cover the surface with a composition of decorative plaster, and on top of it, if necessary, apply paint.

Plastering the surface of aerated concrete walls

If you need to apply plastering to a foam concrete surface, you must take into account a number of such features:

When finishing facade walls, you should use the type of plaster that will restrict moisture access, create a stable barrier to cracks and ensure vapor permeability. This will contribute to better thermal conductivity and frost resistance of the material.
When finishing walls made of foam concrete, the thickness of the plaster layer should be 5-10 mm.
Good thermal conductivity of the plaster will allow moisture to escape to the outside. This will allow moisture not to linger under the outer layer of plaster, which will prevent premature collapse of the walls.
For a foam concrete surface, plaster with a high adhesion ability should be used, since due to the foamy component, the adhesion of the plaster to the surface of such walls is problematic.

Plastering concrete walls

If the surface for cladding consists of them concrete slabs, it is necessary to take into account the following features of the plastering process:

Defective changes of various nature - cracks, chips, depressions and sagging - can form on walls made of concrete material during the installation period. This may discourage good fastening plaster to the base. To remedy the situation, defects should be eliminated with putty.
Before finishing the concrete surface with plaster, to strengthen the base, it should be treated with a primer solution or a certain strengthening compound.
The compositions can be applied mechanically using a spray gun, as well as manually using a roller or brush.
Since concrete is a material that does not absorb enough moisture, the plaster should be applied in three layers - spray, primer and top coat.
The first layer, spray, should be of a liquid consistency and have a thickness of 3-5 mm. The second layer, the soil, should be thicker and its thickness should be 7-10 mm. The cover should also have a thick consistency and be applied with a thickness of 4-7 mm.

Plastering brick walls

In order for the plaster solution to be better attached to the brick surface, the following features of the cladding process should be taken into account:

Initially, you need to make a notch on the brick. You can also put a fine mesh of metal material under the plaster.
Next, we spray, cover the surface with a primer and cover it using a solution of a similar consistency.
You also need to pay attention to the fact that the seams between the bricks are cut to the required depth. Otherwise, the plaster layer will swell and eventually fall off.

How to plaster the facade in the video is presented below:

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