How to properly mount the frame under the drywall inside or outside the apartment, how to mount it under the plasterboard cladding. Sheathing walls with plasterboard without a frame and profile (video) How to sheathe walls with plasterboard in a brick house

Plasterboard wall cladding - simple and budget way leveling surfaces. In many cases, choosing it is more rational than using plaster, for example, when preparing a wooden wall for subsequent finishing. Plasterboard cladding can be carried out in a short time, the additional effects of its use are the improvement of sound and thermal insulation in the room.

Drywall for walls can be different, the one you need is chosen, focusing on the conditions of the room in which they plan to carry out repair work:

normal - suitable for rooms with normal humidity levels;
moisture resistant - used for bathrooms and rooms with high humidity;
fire-resistant - they are sheathed with sections of the wall around stoves, fireplaces, chimneys;
fire and moisture resistant - designed for finishing attics, attics, furnaces in private houses.

Minimum thickness of plasterboard for wall cladding - 12.5 mm... Thinner materials are used for other purposes: finishing the ceiling or creating volumetric structures.

Installation methods

There are 2 methods of fixing the gypsum board: frame and frameless.

The latter is used if the walls in the room do not have significant curvature. Frameless installation will be cheaper, since the cladding material is attached directly to the surface requiring alignment, fixing it with glue, the construction of an additional lathing is not required. Fastening drywall to the wall in this way is possible only if the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m.

The frame method is suitable when you need to lay insulation or communications under the sheathing. In this case, a crate is preliminarily placed on the wall, and only then the gypsum board is fixed.

Frameless method

To decorate the walls with drywall with your own hands you will need:

construction level;
a set of spatulas;
rule;
jigsaw or sharp construction knife for sawing sheathing material;
construction grater;
square, pencil;
rubber mallet;
an electric drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
screwdriver;
gypsum putty;
brush and roller for applying the primer;
antifungal primer;
serpyanka (tape for sealing gypsum board joints);
self-tapping screws.

Before sheathe the wall with sheets of drywall, you need to prepare the surface.

Training

The old wall covering must be removed. If the surface is painted oil paint, and it is not possible to completely remove it, they put serifs on the wall with an ax or a puncher. This is necessary to improve adhesion.

All irregularities, grooves and cracks are filled with putty or polyurethane foam. After the solution has solidified, clean off the excess so that nothing protrudes above the surface.

Before attaching the drywall to the wall, you need to prime and mark it. First, the surface is cleaned of dust with a broom or brush. Then apply one or more layers of deep penetration primer, using a roller for flat areas, and for corners and other hard-to-reach places paint brush... At least 2 hours should elapse between coats. You should start marking only after the wall is completely dry.

Markup

Wall cladding with plasterboard is carried out only after marking the surfaces, otherwise distortions are possible. You need a level to work. The easiest way is to work with a laser, but a bubble will work as well.

The marking should be carried out taking into account the possible deformation of the sheets: a gap of about 1 cm should be left between the end of the gypsum board and the floor, and 5 mm between the gypsum board and the ceiling. A control line is drawn at the ceiling, from below it is usually not required, since it is easier to form the required indentation by placing 10 mm thick plywood under the drywall plate during installation.

Using a plumb line, check the evenness of the corners of the room and draw a vertical line at the junction of the walls. Fasten drywall to the walls starting from this mark.

Adhesive selection

The composition is selected taking into account the evenness of the surfaces.

Mounting on gypsum or cement based glue

This is the most popular way to install drywall onto walls.

Work order:

The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer.
GKL is turned over to the seamy side. Apply the solution in long interrupted lines along the edges of the slab along the entire perimeter. On the sheet itself, glue is applied in dots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, keeping a distance of about 20-30 cm between them.
Work starts from the corner. Plywood 1 cm thick is placed on the floor to leave a gap. Bring drywall to the wall to the vertical marking line, apply, align with the line.
Carry out the rule on the plate in order to evenly distribute the composition. Using the building level, make sure there are no sideways deviations. If they are, they correct the shortcomings.
After the final drying of the adhesive, the drywall is additionally fixed using dowels - "fungi".
By a similar method, further wall cladding with whole sheets of gypsum board is carried out, and only after that the facing of the remaining narrow sections of the wall begins. To do this, measure the open sections of the wall and cut out parts of the desired size from the slabs.

GKL is cut with a jigsaw or a knife. The edges should be made at an angle so that later the joints can be filled with putty.

Installation on polymer compositions

Facing the walls of the gypsum board using synthetic glue can be done in two ways - apply the composition to the plate in the same way as when using dry mixes, or first fix the sheets on the surface with dowels, pre-aligning them, and then fill the voids between the drywall and the base with foam.

The glue setting time depends on the composition.

Fixing on polyurethane foam

To sheathe the walls with plasterboard using this method, apply foam to the edges along the perimeter of the slab, draw several lines along the main part. Immediately after applying the composition, the sheet is applied to the wall and its position is leveled.

The final solidification time is about a day. After that, the drywall will be firmly glued to the wall, and it will no longer be possible to tear off or correct its position.

For uneven surfaces, a different method is used - first, the gypsum board is fixed, and then the voids are foamed.

Step-by-step instructions for decorating walls with plasterboard in this way:

The slab is fixed on the wall along the marking line. Holes are drilled in the wall for dowels (the plasterboard is not removed at the same time). Just for one sheet for reliable fixation, you will need about 10-12 self-tapping screws, which will need to be evenly positioned over the entire area.
After drilling the holes, the sheet is set aside, then plastic dowels are inserted into the wall.
Foam rubber is glued to the seamy side of the gypsum board using double-sided tape. Place the pieces of material 15 cm from the holes made. To determine which side you need to fix the drywall to the wall, and which side to fix the foam rubber, you should inspect the slab. There are no markings and markings on the front, and there is a slight bevel at the side edge.
Apply the sheet to the wall, fix it on the screws. The position of the sheet can be leveled by screwing the fasteners to different depths - in the place where the wall deviates, the self-tapping screw is not screwed in until it stops.
Plasterboard is installed on the walls in this way.
Holes are made in the gypsum board, placing them in the areas between the self-tapping screws. Through these holes, polyurethane foam is pumped into the space between the sheet and the wall.
After the foam has hardened (at least a day later), the screws can be drowned a couple of mm in the sheets or completely unscrew the fasteners, and then putty these areas.

This technology of plasterboard wall cladding implies a large consumption of foam, however, it allows you to cope with significant curvature without installing the frame.

Frame method

For work you will need:

metal profile;
building level;
drill or hammer drill;
suspensions;
spatulas;
construction knife or jigsaw;
tape measure, pencil;
scissors for metal.

Plasterboard wall cladding begins with surface preparation. It is believed that with the frame finishing method, the removal of the old finish and priming is not required, however, it is recommended to complete it - this will increase the service life of the erected structure.

The frame can also be made of wooden slats, but this method is used less and less. Wood is susceptible to decay and deformation, therefore, wall decoration with plasterboard using wooden lathing is impractical.

Markup

Work order:

A plumb line is fixed on the wall in the corner under the ceiling.
Screw in a self-tapping screw in the place where the plumb line touches the floor. So mark all 4 walls.
The thread is pulled along the entire perimeter, fixing it on the screwed in self-tapping screws. The resulting line is transferred to the floor and ceiling.

The minimum distance from the wall for installing the frame is 4 cm... There is no point in making it too large - the greater the distance from the base to the plasterboard partition, the smaller the useful area of the room.

Frame installation

The guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling along the marking lines using dowels. Before that, it is recommended to stick a sealing tape on the back of the profile in order to reduce the vibrations that will be transmitted by the overlapping to the frame.

The profile is cut using metal shears.

The next step is to mark the lines for installing the rack-mount profile. The racks must be placed at a distance of 60 cm so that when the walls are lined with plasterboard on the metal frame, the joints of the plates fall directly to the center of the profile. If on plasterboard partition subsequently, a high load is planned (for example, shelves, wall cabinets, a TV will be installed), then the distance is reduced to 40 cm.

By measuring the distance from the top to the bottom guides and subtracting 1 cm, you get the required height of the racks. Parts of the required length are cut from the profile. They are inserted first into the lower guide, then into the upper, positioning in accordance with the markings. Fix the racks to the wall using hangers.

Before stitching up the wall with plasterboard, lay insulation, if necessary.

Installation of gypsum board

Proceed to installing sheets on the frame. Cladding begins with whole slabs, placing them in a checkerboard pattern: the first one is to fix the whole canvas, aligning it along the lower guide. The next sheet is mounted on a ceiling rail. This technique makes the structure stronger.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall to the wall on the profile. Screw them in, setting the minimum number of revolutions on the screwdriver, otherwise the sheet may be damaged.

The total number of fasteners per sheet is at least 45. On the short side of the gypsum board, 5 self-tapping screws are screwed in, the rest are distributed along the long sides and center of the plate. The head of the fastener must be recessed into the sheet by 1 mm. It is impossible to tighten the screws too much.

When they finish the plasterboard wall cladding with their own hands, they move on to finishing the erected structure.

Finishing

At the final stage, grout the joints of the plates. The method is selected taking into account what decorative trim will be used later.

When using elastic materials (plastic tiles, non-woven or photomurals with a PVC base), chamfer on both edges at an angle of 22.5 °, then the angle of the groove formed will be 45 °. After that, the groove is filled with a gypsum-based starting putty.

For finishing plasterboard walls with other materials, the seams are processed differently. Cut the edge at an angle of 45 ° so that the angle formed between the plates is 90 °. A glue putty is used to fill the groove. It is applied abundantly, then rubbed, a serpyanka is immediately applied over it, pressing it into the solution. After hardening, the composition is rubbed, forming a flat plane.

Having learned how to properly sheathe the walls with plasterboard on your own, you can proceed to repair work... If you adhere to the technology of work in the process, the finished structure will turn out to be stable and durable.

Plasterboard wall decoration in a wooden house

Everyone chooses for himself ... the house in which he will live. Someone builds a house from concrete blocks, despite the horror stories told about concrete structures, someone prefers a brick house, and someone prefers a building made of eco-friendly wood, without fear of fires.

Fire hazard is perhaps the most serious and cruel disadvantage. wooden houses, for all its advantages. And although Construction Materials are treated with fire retardants, they solve the problem in part.

Another disadvantage is the instability of the walls associated with fluctuations in moisture in the wood. The new home is especially unstable. It will take several years before the new building settles down, all the logs (timber) will fall into place.

Advantages of plasterboard wall decoration

GKL is a fertile material for building decoration. Can be sheathed interior partitions drywall not only in wooden house, equip exclusive dropped ceilings in several tiers, create niches or shelves.

The manufacturer offers several brands of GKL:

GKL - standard;
VGKL - waterproof;
OGKL - fire resistant;
OVGKL is water-resistant and fire-resistant at the same time. This drywall is more expensive than the standard one, but it will also last much longer. He is not afraid of high humidity, and will not ignite from the slightest spark.

For finishing inside the house, it is advisable to use the last two GKL brands. For installation in the toilet and bathroom (shower) rooms, a waterproof drywall sheet is better suited.

It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of plasterboard paneling of wooden walls:

With such a finish, perfectly flat surfaces are obtained that can be putty, painted, pasted over with any kind of wallpaper, and even ceramic tiles are glued to them.
Provides some thermal and noise insulation.
Relatively low cost of material and workflow.

It is easy to work with gypsum boards. They can be cut freely with a jigsaw, which allows you to cut any shape (for ceilings), any size of slabs for wall cladding. You can work with GCR independently, without the involvement of specialists.

Finishing rules

Inside the house, wooden walls can be protected by cladding made of fire-resistant gypsum board. Decorating the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house will even out the unevenness of the log or cobblestone masonry, giving it a perfect look. Thermal and waterproofing materials are placed between the wall and the cladding, electrical wiring is located.

But before we start cladding a log or cobbled wall, it is necessary to take into account a few nuances.

Nuance first

Wood, unlike brick or concrete, is a living, organic material. The tree breathes. In conditions of high humidity, it is able to absorb moisture, and in conditions of low humidity, it releases water into the atmosphere.

Poor people buy raw wood, hoping to dry it on their own. It costs less than dry. The construction of a house from raw wood creates some problems, because during the drying process the wood shrinks in size, sometimes warps. As a result, cracks form in the wooden wall.

Pre-purchased material should not be placed on damp ground. It is necessary to put unnecessary boards, beams, pallets under it. Provide a canopy. Between the logs (beams), beams with a height of 4–5 cm should be laid so that air can circulate between them. Thus, you will ensure ventilation and natural drying.

Ideally, if the construction of the house begins in late spring - early summer. Warm air and sun rays will speed up the drying of the wood. Do not rush to caulk and sheathe the walls with plasterboard. For at least a month, the other building should be open to dry out a little. After this time, after the construction of the walls, all the cracks should be caulked, that is, soft plastic material should be hammered into the cracks between the logs. This could be:

Dry moss - in Russia, the walls have long been caulked with dry moss;
Tow is a fibrous material used by plumbers for waterproofing;
Jute is a material made from jute wood;
The sealant is a synthetic foam material.

All these materials do not let through and do not accumulate moisture, they fill the cracks well with themselves.

Nuance second

Wood is a combustible material. And even more so a dry tree. And in order to complicate its flammability, it is necessary to treat the masonry from the inside and outside with fire retardants - anti-flammable agents. But this is not enough.

To protect your home from fire, it is important to properly install the electrical wiring. After all, a short circuit is possible in it. Finally, overheating of the contacts with a high load on the mains can also cause a fire. Electrical wiring is laid in plastic (metal) boxes from the outside. In this case, the boxes must be of high quality, flame-retardant. Possibility of laying wires between the wall and the plasterboard sheathing. The best way to protect the wires in this case is to lay them in metal sleeves. We mount the electrical wiring simultaneously with the installation of the frame for drywall.

Protection against fungi and other microorganisms is required. After the fire retardants, the walls are treated with antiseptics.

Nuance third

This moment is directly related to the plasterboard wall cladding in a wooden house. The fact is that fresh wood, especially poorly dried for some time, will shrink. It's connected:

with the loss of moisture by the tree;
With the planting of logs or timber in place, their compaction among themselves under the influence of the weight of the overlying logs, roofing superstructure.

The landing of a house can be 10-15 cm per floor.

The fact that a tree breathes, then absorbing moisture, then losing it, was mentioned above. This factor also affects the unstable behavior of the walls. Some tree species are prone to warping, especially with high humidity or sudden temperature changes. And if drywall sheets are firmly attached to such a wall, they will quickly begin to crack, change their location, and deform. To avoid this, a so-called sliding or floating frame was developed. Its essence lies in the fact that it does not move together. load-bearing walls Houses. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this frame.

Arrangement of the frame

The frame is not accidentally called sliding. It is designed in such a way that the shrinkage of the outer walls does not affect or displace the inner lining. You will learn about the intricacies of installing such a frame below.

Metal carcass

The metal frame consists of the following elements:

To work, you need the following tools.

Roulette,
Level,
Screwdriver,
Angle grinder for cutting profiles,
Stepladder,
Pencil or marker.

First, a horizontal guide profile is attached to the floor. Then the areas for the installation of vertical posts are marked. They are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other, so that every second (third) rack falls on the joint of drywall sheets. The length of the posts must be less distance from floor to ceiling by 10–12 cm. It is advisable to choose the thickness of the profiles for the racks at least 0.6 mm.

Next, take each rack, mark the attachment points on it in such a way that they do not fall between the logs (timber) of the wall, and that there are no cracks and cracks at the attachment point. From the marking down, cut out a groove with a grinder, the length of which should be 10 cm and a width of about 5 mm (slightly larger diameter screw).

The cut is made so that the marking point is approximately in the middle of the cut. The edges of the groove must be smooth and even. Therefore, they must be cleaned with sandpaper. There should be at least 3-4 marking points, and, accordingly, grooves on each rack. All racks and their places of installation should be numbered.

Where the racks are loosely adjacent to the wall, at the attachment points it is necessary to fix the stops made of plywood or pieces of timber so that all the risers are in the same plane. Simple self-tapping screws can be used as stops. Now that the markup is finished, all the racks are marked and numbered, you can proceed to their installation.

The uprights are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with washers, which are screwed into the upper part of the groove, with an indentation of 1 cm. The self-tapping screw must hold the uprights firmly, but still do not tighten them all the way, the washer under the screw head should turn.

Next stage. The same U-shaped profiles are attached to these racks, but turned upside down towards the first. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping seeds on the side. Stiffeners are laid across the wall. In this way, metal carcass ready for wall cladding with plasterboard.

There is another way to install a frame for drywall. It is suitable for log walls, walls with large irregularities.

Wooden frame

A wooden frame is easier to install, but not as stable as a metal one. It can only be arranged in a mature house. All beams for a wooden frame must be dry and treated, like walls, with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

Wooden beams are attached in the same way as metal ones. Through lugs are cut in the uneven bars. The hole for the self-tapping screws must be countersunk so that the screw head sinks and does not protrude above the timber.

Plasterboard wall cladding

Starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to take into account some of the cladding features. Before plastering the walls with plasterboard, it is recommended that you first make the ceiling. For finishing the ceiling, use soft hangers and rods.

Wall and ceiling slabs should not be joined tightly. It is recommended to leave a gap of a few centimeters between them. This gap is closed by a cornice. At the bottom, the drywall should also not fit snugly to the floor. It is located one to two centimeters higher. The skirting board will cover this gap. Plinth and cornice are fixed to horizontal surfaces.

When installing drywall, it is also recommended to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This gap is glued with serpyanka tape and hidden under the putty. When the walls move, this gap will not allow the appearance of cracks. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other. The screw heads are slightly sunk into the depth of the sheet. Then they are sealed when puttying.

The use of a frame structure allows you to perform steam and thermal insulation of walls using a special vapor barrier film and mineral wool.

Conclusion

It is advisable to sustain the erected house without finishing for a year. During this year, you will have time to tidy up the roof, lay gas and water supply, install heating, without which there is no point in starting wall cladding. Since the heat inside the house will significantly affect the drying process of the wood and the behavior of the walls. But even if the house has settled down, it is recommended to decorate the walls on a floating frame, since a slight, imperceptible deformation of the walls will still occur for several more years.

Before starting the finishing, it is recommended to prime the walls sheathed with plasterboard. Then the putty and other materials will hold better.

Perhaps the readers have their own subtleties and tricks of arranging the frame under the GCR, someone will decide that the described methods are not effective and stable enough. We invite readers to comment on this topic and ask questions.

Sheathing the walls with plasterboard is the most convenient way to decorate a room. With the help of this material, a person can level the walls with his own hands, and also not harm relatives, because drywall belongs to a number of environmentally friendly goods for repair work.

By following the advice of experts, you can avoid the most common mistakes.

Before starting work, you need to prepare necessary tools so as not to waste time looking for them if necessary;
It is better to inspect the working wall in advance to choose The right way mounts, and buy the required materials;
Also, experts recommend correctly aligning the walls in order to avoid sagging of the material that can damage it.

Plasterboard sheets have a large number of advantages - an affordable price category, this material allows you to achieve a flat wall surface using a small number of sheets and with little effort and skill. Drywall is one of the most environmentally friendly material, it is allowed to use it in any room, even a nursery, because upon contact with this material, an allergic reaction cannot occur or a child cannot be injured on a smooth surface.

It is impossible not to mention the properties of moisture resistance and fire resistance, which allow you to feel more confident in the house. Plasterboard boards are easy enough to install, if you follow all the rules correctly, you can do without the services of construction firms or a master and do such work yourself.

More about types and standard sizes drywall sheets:.

If damaged, you can replace a specific part of the element, saving money. In addition to many advantages, this material also has its drawbacks - it is quite fragile, so transportation must be carried out especially carefully so as not to damage the sheets, because they are sold in large enough sizes and can crack in half. Also, after its installation, it is necessary to be careful, because if the wall is damaged by any furniture, a small, but quite noticeable dent may appear.

An alternative to drywall in such a case is plaster, it can be easily repaired if damaged, without application special efforts... The second no less important drawback is the complexity and accessibility of a person to communications hidden under the material. In case of serious breakdowns, it is imperative to remove one or more plates; there is also a high probability of their complete replacement after removal.

Learning to properly sheathe walls with plasterboard with our own hands

Before starting work, you must first cut drywall in the required amount, you should also take into account the joints and corners.

Experts give advice on the correct cutting of the material:

First you need to take a clerical knife and cut the drywall on one side;
Then the material is folded along the cut line;
The last step is making the incision from the back.

To create a variety of drywall structures, it is necessary to cut it not straight, but in a semicircle, or make various wavy details. For such work, it is best to use a hand saw, it is quite convenient and will allow you to create even the most interesting details from a sketch without any hassle. Experts recommend that when installing sheets, lay the plates in such a way as to avoid long longitudinal seams, because with such an incorrect laying, cracks are most likely to appear.

It is better to create elements like puzzles, tightly joining them together. If the room is laid with two layers of drywall, then it is necessary to shift the sheets so that they do not repeat the previous drawing.

No less necessary work is, because it is necessary to close the space between the plates. For such purposes, it is used - a putty mixture, a reinforced paper tape capable of tightly sewing up cracks, small strips of serpyanka. Using a wide spatula, which is convenient to close up cracks, can make your task easier. It is not difficult to sheathe a room yourself using plasterboard slabs, if, in addition to advice on correct installation use and quality material.

You should buy it at trusted retail outlets and inspect each sheet for damage, defects, and bends. You need to be especially careful when choosing materials for a children's room, even knowing that it is environmentally friendly, it is better to make sure that there is a quality certificate and compliance with European standards.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard: types of material

On the construction market, they offer such types of drywall, which can become a finishing material for brick or wooden walls.

Sheet, standard, gray color - GKL;
Moisture resistant, green - GKLV;
Fire-resistant, red - GKLO.

Gypsum board consists of compressed cellulose pulp, with gypsum being used as a binder. Both edges are tightly covered with paper layers. Sheets are sold with a thickness of 16 mm to 32 mm, and are different types, with a specific purpose and a different price category. All types of drywall are fire resistant, they allow you to delay the spread of fire around the house, allowing family members to leave the room in time.

Self-plastering of a wall using a metal or wooden frame is also possible if you follow the rules and know the methods. Self-tapping screws are used for this purpose.

They should fit snugly into the material and anchor well. This method is more reliable, it is also possible to use an integrated installation of gypsum plasterboards, which makes it possible to more correctly dispose of the available area of the room and give it a complete look.

The use of drywall to level the walls allows not only to easily achieve a flat surface, but also improves the sound and thermal insulation of the home, it does not create dust and does not stain clothes.

One of the most important features of a material such as drywall is its ability to absorb excess moisture and release it if necessary if the air in the room is dry.

Instructions: how to properly sheathe walls with plasterboard using glue

If, after preliminary preparation of the walls, it was decided to glue the material on your own, you need to take care of the main materials.

Namely:

Experts will help you calculate the right amount of glue for the room;
Before starting pasting, it is better to create a wiring plan;
The ventilation ducts must not be covered; it is also necessary to cut out the places where the light switches and sockets will be located.

The preparatory stage consists of removing dust from the walls, then you need to make sure that the plaster is strong. If you have an old coating, you must remove it yourself, since such negligence will bring a lot of problems and can ruin the repair. If there are cracks or irregularities on the surface, then they are subject to compulsory putty. It is most convenient to apply the primer with a roller or special brush. Then you need to apply the adhesive according to the instructions on the package and glue the drywall to it.

Step by step: plasterboard wall cladding (video)

If the right technology is used in the house, then the cladding will hold firmly and please the eye for a long time.

How to properly sheathe a wall with plasterboard? Which tool and plating method to choose? We will try to briefly talk about this and other things in the article, so that even a beginner has no doubts that he can do it with his own hands.

First you need to inspect the scope of work, assess the scale and select necessary way installation.

As you know, the walls of private houses and apartments are made of reinforced concrete, brick and wood. On any of these surfaces, you can glue drywall or install a frame. The main criteria affecting the installation method are the volume of the room and the curvature of the walls. Plasterboard sheathing on the frame is considered the most optimal, but here you should also take into account the disadvantages - the area of the room with the frame installed will significantly decrease (the total thickness of the sheathing will be more than 5 cm). Therefore, if you are planning to carry out renovations in a small room, perhaps the best option will become frameless fastening to the adhesive composition. If the defects and curvature of the walls do not exceed 20 mm, you can safely choose it, i.e. glue hl on gypsum glue.

If we have more or less figured out the fastening methods, then the question with the tool has remained open so far.

Tool for work

For cladding surfaces using frame technology, you will need:

The material itself is drywall sheets.
Pencil, knife for cutting glued sheets, blades.
Roulette, building level, better laser
Metal scissors
Dowels 6x40, 6x60.
Galvanized profiles CD, UD.
Perforated hangers (CD bracket)
Grinder, drill, screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for metal
A cutter, or self-tapping screws (bugs) for attaching profiles to each other
Edge planer
Spatula and bucket, gypsum glue (if gluing hl)
All for finishing seams hl

Surface preparation

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding involves not only installation, but also preparation. Before plating the surface, you need to perform several preparatory work:

Remove old trim. Before proceeding with the finishing, you need to remove all previous layers from the walls to the base.
Process the walls. This procedure is not considered mandatory. However, experts recommend priming the walls and treating them with a special antiseptic.
Make preliminary markup. Mark the boundaries above the floor and below the ceiling where the slabs will begin and end. Usually a distance of 5 cm is set aside.

Methods for attaching hl: advantages and disadvantages

As mentioned earlier, there are only two ways to sheathe walls with plasterboard: by gluing and installing plates on metal or wooden frame... For a better understanding of which method is better to choose, consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Wireframe method

Of the advantages of installation on a galvanized frame, it should be noted: mechanical strength and reliability of the finished structure, the ability to install sound-insulating material, installation of the material even on the most uneven surface. In addition, the structure, installed on the frame, can support the large weight of the tiles. Therefore, this option can be used in the kitchen or bathroom.

The method of installation on a frame made of wood has the same advantages as the method of installing a hl on a metal frame. The only thing worth considering is that wood does not tolerate moisture well, so this installation method is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.

The disadvantages of the frame installation method include additional financial costs for the necessary fasteners and the complexity of installation.

Frameless method

Wall cladding in a frameless way is a little easier. It will not take away the useful centimeters of your room and will not force you to shell out a tidy sum for repairs, but it will be less durable compared to frame technology... The disadvantages of this method include the impossibility of laying soundproofing material.

Technology for mounting sheets on a galvanized profile

For the assembly of the frame, we take a galvanized profile. On the floor, ceiling, we start the UD profile, which we fix with 6x40 dowels. After fixing the starting profiles, we proceed with the installation of vertical jumpers (CD-profile). The edges of the profile should be facing the wall, the wide side - into the room.

The profile is cut with scissors according to the meter or with a grinder to the desired size.

The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws specially designed for galvanized profiles. We fix the first main profile near the side wall, the next ones already in increments of 60 cm. The distance is set aside from the center of the profiles, and not from their edges. Under the next surface we fix the profile close to, regardless of the distance between this and the previous profile.

To enhance fixation, it is recommended to use perforated hangers. The products look like galvanized strips with perforated ends. We give these clamps the shape of the letter "P" and fix them with their midpoints to the wall under each vertical profile. On the edges of the perforated hangers there are so-called "ears". We fasten them to the profile and check the evenness of all elements with a building level.

Sound-heat insulating material is placed between the wall and the plasterboard sheet. Special mineral wool for hcl. After that, it is advisable to put a layer of vapor barrier film.

If the height of the wall will exceed the height of the plasterboard sheet, you can add the missing part of the material from the top or bottom by installing jumpers from the CD-profile.

How to carry out cladding on a prepared frame

Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the main profiles. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long. For quick and easy work, it is best to use an electric screwdriver. We tighten the self-tapping screws until their caps are "recessed". The fasteners are screwed at a distance, within 150 mm in the center of the hl and around the perimeter. If one sheet is not enough, take new leaf and cut pieces of the desired size from it.

Sealing plasterboard joints

Now you can start finishing... The technology is described in detail in the article.With the help of a special self-adhesive serpyanka tape, we close the seams. We putty the tape with special fugen putty from knauf. For the final touch, it is worth deciding what material will be used for the topcoat. For example, if tiles or other rather dense material will be laid, then you can simply cover up the seams and start laying the tiles. If wallpaper is glued to the surface or is simply painted, then we smear the seams, holes from the screws several times.

Sand the surface with a sandpaper and treat it with a primer. If in the future the sheets will be painted, the surface should be perfectly flat.

Frameless sheet mounting technology

The first step is priming the surface. We prime, wait for complete drying.

The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution. Pour Perflix into clean water, mix it, achieve the desired density of the solution. It is advisable to knead thicker so that it does not drain along with the drywall. I will warn you right away that the glue dries quickly, so you need to work with it faster.

A sheet of drywall is easily cut with a knife, after which it breaks off. The edges remain torn, here a drywall plane will come in handy.

It is necessary to apply glue only to the back surface of the sheet, free from dust and debris. In the center and edges of the gl, the glue is applied with buns of the thickness we need. They are made at a distance of 25 cm. If you want to glue a whole sheet, you can apply buns to the wall.

Apply the gypsum plasterboard to the base and press down evenly. A rubber mallet can be used for better hold. We put a block of wood to the sheet and knock on it with a hammer. It is impossible to knock with a rubber hammer on the hl itself, otherwise holes in the material can be punched.

Only after the glue has completely dried can you start sealing the joints. The seams are closed in the same way as when installing on a profile.

Finally

Plasterboard cladding will not give you much trouble if you follow all the steps sequentially.

It is necessary to prepare the walls (clean them of old coating, dust, dirt, treat with a primer).
Choose a method of fixing the material (frame, frameless).
Purchase the necessary inventory.
Fasten drywall sheets.
Fill the seams with special tape, putty, sand the uneven surface with sandpaper and prime.

Drywall firmly holds the position of one of the most popular among construction and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These include its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in the most different rooms, relatively low weight and generally affordable cost.

Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is available not only to an experienced builder, but also to a novice master. Wall decoration with plasterboard without a frame and profile is possible with different adhesives and on surfaces built from different materials. The advantages of such an attachment in comparison with the frame method are that the decrease in the area of the room is not so noticeable, a decent amount is saved on the elements of the crate, and themselves assembly work pass quickly enough and may well be produced on their own.

The main methods of mounting drywall on a wall surface

To appreciate the advantage of frameless drywall installation, you can still briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.

In fairness, it should be noted that sometimes it is impossible to do without installing a frame when installing drywall, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering the methods of installing the material.

So, there are two main technologies for fixing drywall sheets to the wall in order to align it:

Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of metal profile or timber... This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and the insulation material is installed in the frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to align with plaster layers.
Fixing sheets to the wall using self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam or on a gypsum-based adhesive. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if you want to sheathe not only wooden wall, but also surfaces derived from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum composition is often used to level concrete or brick wall... However, it should be noted right away that the frameless method of fastening drywall should be used only when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.

In this publication, the nuances of only frameless drywall fixing will be considered.

Required materials and tools

Set of tools

To level the walls with drywall using one of the adhesives, you will need much fewer tools than if the frame was fixed to the wall. The list of everything you need consists of the following items:

Plumb line, building level and, as a rule, preferably 1500 mm long - to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
An electric jigsaw or a sharp utility knife - for cutting drywall.
Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
A wide, medium and narrow trowel, and possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the mortar.
Construction trowel - for processing the putty surface.
Roller and brush - for treating walls with a primer.
Rubber mallet - for adjusting drywall sheets glued to the wall.
Electric drill and mixer attachment - for mixing the solution.
In some cases, it will be required - for additional fixing with self-tapping screws.

Drywall prices

drywall

Necessary materials

Now you need to consider the materials that will be required for the preparation of the surface of the walls and for high-quality installation of drywall:

Priming solution with antiseptic additives.
Plaster-based putty mixture, base and finishing.
Dry building mixture - drywall glue, or polyurethane foam.
Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting the drywall sheets. The size of the fasteners will depend on the evenness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
For one of the alignment technologies, pieces of foam rubber will be required - this will be discussed in due course.

Some of the materials are described in more detail.

Drywall

The Knauf company produces not only a variety of building and finishing mixtures, but also gypsum plasterboards for various purposes - they are simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing material:

Ordinary drywall (gypsum plasterboard or, according to Knauf's proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
Moisture resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-H2) can be used to level the walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After processing such a surface, ceramic tiles will perfectly fit on it.
Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used to decorate walls around a fireplace, stoves, chimneys.
Fire and moisture resistant drywall (GKLVO or GSP-DFH2) is well suited for wall decoration in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic rooms.

Here you can also briefly say about, which does not require much effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp clerical knife at hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:

The sheet is laid on a solid base - it can be a large table, a floor, or several stools, set side by side at some distance from each other.
Then, using a tape measure or a ruler, the sheet is marked out, the necessary lines are drawn with a simple pencil.
The next step along the drawn line, also along the ruler, is carried out with a knife, which must cut upper layer cardboard.
The sheet is pushed to the edge of the hard surface and laid on it along the notch line.
Then, on the edge of the drywall that goes beyond the base, a pressure is made, which will provoke a break in the sheet along the cut line.
The last step is to cut the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.

Wall decoration with plasterboard is the best option for leveling any surface. This applies to both completely new buildings, where Finishing work putty (for example, office buildings), and old houses, up to adobe. In the latter, sheathing the walls of the gypsum board is quite simple. The finished structure does not form a load, it is easy to assemble, the amount of accompanying materials is minimal.

Thanks to the gypsum board, a perfectly flat surface is achieved, which can be pasted over with wallpaper (no reaction to glue) or even painted after grouting the seams. The strength of the gypsum plasterboard is quite enough to prevent "breakthroughs" from accidental physical impact, installation on its plane of paintings, computer monitors on brackets and other equipment weighing up to 15 kg and dimensions of fasteners 25 * 15 cm. Reducing the size of the latter leads to a proportional decrease in the weight of the object being mounted for 1 sq. m. GKL.

The aforementioned advantages are only a small part of what the drywall construction has on the wall. But, before proceeding with the independent wall cladding, it is strongly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the information below: find out which cladding method to choose, what materials, tools are needed, and then how to properly sheathe the walls with plasterboard!

What tools and materials do I need to buy?

For sheathing with a frame method, you will need to buy:

Gypsum plasterboard sheet (quantity and dimensions are selected individually).
Ceiling profiles (PP).
Metal guide profiles.
Direct suspension.
Profile extensions.
Self-tapping screws.
Dowels.
Connectors.
Construction knife.
Metal scissors.
Rotary hammer / drill (depending on the wall material).
Roulette.
Pencil or marker.
Screwdriver.
Level (for more accurate and faster work, it is better to choose a laser level).
Other materials (serpyanka, putty, primer).

Frameless cladding:

perforated paper tape for seams.
putty for the initial treatment of seams and self-tapping caps.
finishing putty.
a primer against fungi.
dry assembly mixture based on gypsum binder with polymer additives.
a special knife for gypsum board (clerical will not work).
instrument for taking measurements (tape measure, level, etc.).
pen-pencil.

Phased wall cladding with a frame method

Stage 1: markup

It can be performed both with a building level (manual, laser) and with a plumb line. The use of the latter guarantees a more accurate result, but increases the duration of the work. First of all, you need to determine the largest irregularities that stick out into the room and transfer the corresponding points to the floor.

From the obtained points, and there can be from one to a couple of dozen of them, it is necessary to determine the one that is closer to the center of the room (the largest unevenness of the wall), and draw a straight line through it. The latter is the outline of a rectangle. All other transferred points must be between the line of the rectangle and the real wall.

Next, you need to draw a straight line parallel to the one mentioned, but already stepping back 5 mm and extra space for "U" -shaped profile (pre-measure with a ruler). It is along this line that the installation of the profile structure will be carried out. A similar one must be transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line.

Stage 2: installation of the "U" -shaped profile around the perimeter of the room

Before proceeding, it is necessary to cut the profile to the appropriate length. It is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. In almost 100% of cases, craftsmen use ordinary dowels and golden screws for quick installation of the structure. The latter are simply hammered into the already installed dowels.

When working on surfaces such as wood and adobe, it is strongly recommended to use regular black self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Algorithm of actions

on the prepared profile, drill holes with a diameter of 7 mm every 40 cm;

Profiles with pre-drilled holes are available for sale. If their diameter is less than necessary, it is better to expand them with a drill. Otherwise, the dowels may be damaged and poorly fixed in the wall.

try on the finished profile for the mounting surface, observing its placement: front side on the drawn line;

A line should be visible through the holes in the profile.

mark the holes with a pencil or pen;

If you have certain skills in working with profile structures, this step can be omitted.

using a puncher to perform required amount holes for the profile;

An alternative to a massive and not very convenient hammer drill can be a drill with an impact function.

perform the installation of profiles on the floor, wall, ceiling, while using dowels and one of the mentioned types of screws / self-tapping screws.

Installation of a profile on curved walls is accompanied by its deformation (wavy state). This can be avoided by making cuts at the top and bottom with metal scissors.

Installation of the main frame from the "C" -shaped profile

Consists of several stages and two types of "C" -shaped profile. Subject to the skills of working with drywall structures, it is extremely difficult to deal with this. That is why the further algorithm of actions will be described in this picture.

At the joints of drywall sheets, a docking profile must always be present. It is shown in blue in this illustration. In total, there are 4 such pieces per standard wall with a single window and door opening, subject to a sheet width of 1.2 meters (generally accepted by manufacturers).

There must always be an intermediate profile between the docking rails. Its amount depends on the original idea. If a two-layer plasterboard wall is supposed to be finished, then the intermediate profile is installed at a distance of 0.6 m. In the graphical example, such a device is marked in orange.

If it is necessary to cover the wall in one sheet, two intermediate ones are installed between the docking ones. In the photo they are marked in blue and are at a distance of 0.4 meters.

The intermediate profile that needs to be added to the general design, if the window sill space is sewn up.

The installation of an intermediate profile (purple) above the window can be ignored, provided that the height of the remainder of the wall from the top of the door and window slope does not exceed 50 cm.

Algorithm of actions

fix the profiles to the wall observing the distance between them;

On walls made of wood or clay, it is better to use dowels in combination with black long screws.

cut the "C" -shaped profile to length;

It should be 0.5 - 0.8 cm shorter than the entire distance between the walls.

Provided that the length of the wall is more than 3 meters, you will also need to buy connecting brackets for profiles.

connect CD and UD profile to each other;

This must be done ignoring the exact perpendicular position in relation to the UD profile. The CD profile connects to the mentioned one slightly obliquely.

using a construction cord or level, based on the flow state of the walls, determine the gap from the wall that will remain behind the CD profile after its installation;
fix the CD profile with the existing wall brackets.

The action can be performed both with self-tapping screws and rivets.

It is better to make the frame in parts, for example, by conventionally dividing the wall into two parts.

Installation of gypsum board

It is quite simple to do. The drywall sheet must be placed in an upright position and aligned with the frame. This is done by means of wooden wedges. It is very inconvenient to cope with the task on your own, but it is quite possible.

It is enough to fasten the adjusted sheet with two self-tapping screws, after which the wedges can be removed. It is necessary to screw in the self-tapping screws with measured effort. Their cap should fit into the sheet by no more than 1mm. Otherwise, cracks are possible, which will appear over time, since the thickness of the putty without a reinforcing binder on the gypsum board cannot exceed 15-20 mm.

Instead of a screwdriver, a drill with a special attachment is also used.

If a standard sheet of finishing material is too large, then using a construction knife or jigsaw, it can be shortened and adjusted to the appropriate dimensions. It is also worth noting that when cutting with a knife, there is practically no dust.

These tools are also suitable for making a non-straight cut. This, for example, at a 90-degree angle, would require a combination of a knife and a jigsaw. The latter, for any reason, can be replaced with a file for metal or wood. Short cuts are best done with a jigsaw, which guarantees precise precision, and long cuts with a knife. Having made a solid cut, it is very easy to break off the desired part.

Putty

It is carried out in several stages. The first and, perhaps, the main one is sealing the joints. Here you need to take into account the fact that the putty itself does not hold well. That is why, it is strongly recommended to stick a reinforcing mesh - serpyanka. It is commercially available in completely different gradations and sizes, both in width and length.

You should not try to seal the seams with putty that remain between the sheet and the floor, ceiling. Putting flooring e.g. laminate flooring can already be compensated for by about 2.5 cm.The remaining seam can be closed plastic skirting board, thereby providing additional ventilation in the wall.

The result of installation on the frame

Advantages:

structural strength;
the ability to enhance sound insulation, as well as hide junction boxes with wires, heating and sewerage pipes;
project implementation even on the most uneven walls;
the possibility of surface finishing with gypsum board tiles.

Flaws:

the complexity of installation (we are talking about the frame);
financial expenses for related components;
the whole structure takes up a lot of space (about 8-10 cm on each side).

Frameless cladding

An alternative to the wireframe method. It has one significant drawback - wall decoration up to 3 m with irregularities up to 20 mm. Provided that there are any, use exclusively glue for mounting the gypsum board. In its composition, it may differ slightly, especially when it comes to moisture-resistant or ordinary drywall. Since glue is the only connector of the gypsum board with the wall, you should not save on its purchase.

Provided that irregularities over 20 mm are detected, individual pieces of it, pre-treated with glue on both sides, can be used as a basis for the finishing material in question.

You can glue drywall only on a carefully prepared surface: bare brick, aerated concrete, cinder block. It is strictly forbidden to work on the following surfaces: adobe, shell rock, whitewash. Also, before applying the adhesive to the wall, it must be cleaned of the accumulated saw. All work is carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees. As with wallpapering, drafts and opening windows should be avoided for a week after completion of work.

The glue is prepared 10 minutes before applying to the work surface. Ignoring the requirement will lead to its folding and a decrease in adhesive power.

Important! Before starting work, it is necessary to remove all fossilized grout protrusions.

The adhesive is applied to the back of the sheet in the form of horizontal and vertical stripes. Immediately after that, the gypsum board is pressed against the wall. Provided that excessive bonding material is applied, it will protrude along the edges. It is enough to remove it with a spatula and wipe the places with a dry cloth. If errors were found during installation, then until the glue dries completely, which is about 10 minutes, it is possible to correct the position of the sheet relative to the wall.

Ultimately, it becomes quite clear that the choice of installation method depends on the current state of the walls, as well as the amount of work and preparation. That is why, experts strongly recommend taking measurements and, only then, purchasing materials for the proposed structure. It is also worth noting that cladding by gluing gypsum plasterboard onto wallpaper or old wall covering is not possible, especially the subsequent tiling.

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