Build a skeleton bath with your own hands a step-by-step instruction. Frame sauna with his own hands

Frame construction today conquers more and more followers. This is a lot of reasons. Buildings erected by frame technology, Light, do not require a solid foundation and cost relatively inexpensively. Often the framework is built on the framework. Frame baths are well preserved heat, and they can be erected very quickly even own forces. The video on how to build a frame bath, will be interested in the owners who appreciate their time and know a lot about savings.

Benefits of frame construction

Frame construction has a lot of benefits. We will not list them, but only offer you to see these plots: you will probably learn the lot of useful.

In this plot we are talking about frame construction At home, which, however, does not make information less relevant for the construction of a bath.

Frame bath

This plot is devoted to build a frame of a bath.

Assembling frame walls

Detailed instructions for the construction of frame walls.

Note! No matter whether you build frame house Or a small bathhouse - skills will certainly use you.

Bath for 3 weeks

And at the end of our article, the plot about how the real person built with his own hands a frame bath. See and inspire work!

You can quickly and inexpensively with a bath can be only one way - frame. If you comply with the basic rules, the construction will not give way to brick and brusade analogues.

We design a bath - Different area options

Work on the bath is starting with design. At this stage it is necessary to determine the size and configuration of the future structure. If your requirements are minimal, you can build a bath 3x4 m. There are enough space for a steam room for a few people with an area of \u200b\u200b6 m 2. The remaining space can be left under the rest room. If the recreation room is sacrificed, the places are enough for the locker room and the tambura. And if you equip such a bath in the attic floor, then you will not have to give up from the rest room.

If the bath will be used as a place of time in the company of friends, it is better to make it more, for example, 6x4. In this case, you can equip in it a fairly spacious lounge room with an area of \u200b\u200babout 14 m 2, as well as a double room for 5m 2 and a small bathroom.

And if you make a 4x6 bath with an attic, then on the first floor there can be a steam and washing room, as well as a lounge and a terrace. All mansard FloorAnd this is about 20 m 2, it can be assigned to a rest room.

If the dimensions of your site allow, and the budget is not strongly limited, make an attic battle of 6x6 m in order not to deny yourself anything. It will have a place for all the necessary rooms, as well as for the terrace and a spacious balcony.

Large steam rooms are much more difficult to protruding until the required temperature and then maintain temperature mode on the same level. Therefore, if there is no more than 4-5 m 2 in a large pair need. This will save fuel and time to warm up the room.

In order not to break your head over the layout, you can take the prepared projects proposed on our website as a basis. If necessary, adjust the layout on your own. When the plan is ready, be sure to make a drawing of the frame and roof frame scheme.

The frame frame is quite simple - it is the basis of the racks, which are located with a pitch of 600 mm, if measured from centers, or 575 mm, if measured between racks. On top and bottom of the rack are connected by the strapping - a horizontally located bar or board. In the corners, the racks are strengthened with disclosures. Above door openings, as well as above and under window passing Horizontal jumpers are located. Overlapping beams are calculated and stacked as well as during the construction of ordinary homes.

Having such a drawing in front of them, you will not allow mistakes in the design of the construction. In addition, he will allow to calculate in advance required amount Lumber.

Column foundation - Build the basis

Since the frame bath has a small weight, for it, in most cases, quite a fairly columnal small-breed foundation, provided that the soil is stable. On unstable soils, it is better to perform a pile-screw foundation. If you are planning a cellar or equip other rooms, you will need a belt foundation. In other cases, it is better to refuse it, since the construction of such a basis is very costly and time consuming.

Regardless of which foundation you are going to build, prepare the site - first of all, it needs to be correctly out. Be sure to make sure the area diagonals have the same length. Then get rid of the vegetable layer. So that the plants do not sprout under the bath, treat the soil with fungicides.

Now you can proceed to the construction of the foundation itself. If the base is a column, you will need such materials:

sand;
crushed stone;
cement mortar;
concrete foundation blocks (can be replaced with brick);
bitumen mastic;
ruberoid;
bar 150x150 mm.

After preparing the materials, mark the plot under the columns, which should be located in a step of 1.5-2 m. Then dig the pits to the depth of about 40 cm. Pour the bottom of the holes with rubble and the sand with a thickness of 10 cm. Each layer thoroughly confuse. Matting surface align in a horizontal plane.

Put two pits concrete block, then apply the solution and on top to put two more blocks with dressing. In the process of laying blocks, make sure that the poles are installed strictly vertically. Then, from above, treat blocks with bitumen mastic and place a pair of strokes.

After that, you need to execute Scarlet, i.e. Put the bar on the perimeter of the base and make it with each other. In the process of laying, make sure that the grinding corners are 90 degrees. Gusset Bruus frames are desirable to perform "in the paw" or at least "in Poltera". Then you need to put the overlap beams on the columns and embed them to Ruralt.

The pile-screw foundation is still easier - piles on the principle of a regular bora are screwed into the ground. The level of bulk should be at least two meters. In the rehabilitation process, you need to follow the piles to be vertically.

Then the top of the pile is trimmed so that the edges are on one horizontal level. After that, the Rastell is welded to the pile, which is usually made from foreign beams. These same beams are used for overlapping.

On metal beams you need to secure the ram 150x150 mm using bolts. It will serve as a strapping for frame racks.

Collect the frame - materials and installation

For the construction of the frame of the walls, the following lumber will be needed:

bar 150x150 mm;
bar 100x150 mm;
board 150x40 mm;
steel corners;
wooden braid.

All sawn timber must be treated with antiseptic impregnations. They will protect the tree from negative biological impacts, and will also make it more resistant to moisture.

The work begins with the installation of racks in the corners of the structure, which are performed from the bar of 150x150 mm. In the end of each rack, drill a hole under the heel at a depth of 80-100 mm. Make the same holes as painted in the corners of the structure. Then score to the woodlock yourself brazen and put the racks on them. Additionally strengthen the rack with steel corners and screws.

Then the rack must be strengthened with disconsees, as shown in the diagram above. For the manufacture of diops, use boards 150x40 mm. The ends of the separation cut at the angle, which they will adjust the strapping and racks. To fix the boards, use self-drawing and corners.

Next, set the intermediate walls of the walls in a step of 600 mm, made from the board 150x40 mm. For mounting racks, use steel corners that should be located on two sides of the color. In addition, connect the intermediate racks with each other, as well as with angular racks using jumpers made of the same boards. Jumpers place in a checker order, i.e. at different levels.

Top with all the racks of the strapping, which is performed from a bar 100x150 mm, it will also serve as a Mauerlat for a roof. Then install horizontal strips over and under the openings. For smokers, use the same board as for the racks.

Then install the rack by the same principle. interior partitions - Top and bottom, connect them to the strapping, and also strengthen the cuts and jumpers. This is completed on this construction.

Now you need to lay the beams of overlapping, which can be used 100x150 mm. Slide their edge to the strapping and secure the corners. The pitch of the beams must match the step of the rafter - this is usually 900-1000 mm.

Mount the attic roof

As an example, consider how the roof, as it allows, with a minimum increase in the financial costs, to obtain a practically a full-fledged second floor. If you are interested or, familiarize yourself with other articles on our portal.

For the attic roof, the following materials will be needed:

bar 100x150 mm for racks;
boards 150x50 mm for rafters;
boards 150x20 mm;
reiki;
superdiffuse membrane;
roofing material.

Work begins with the installation of the support structure. For each rafter farm, two racks are installed, which are connected from above beams. Those. Under each rafter farm there is a P-shaped supporting structure.

When installing the reference design, it is necessary to correctly determine the position of the racks. Since the rack with the lower rafters and the Mauerlat (overlapping beam) forms a rectangle, the distance from the wall to the rack depends on the height of the attic and the angle of inclination of the lower rafter. Knowing the angle of inclination of the rafter and the height of the rack (determines the height of the attic room), you can calculate at what distance from the edge is installed on the Pythagora theorem, i.e. You need to find out the length of a smaller category.

Racks secure on the strapping and beams overlap with self-draws and corners. In addition, strengthen them with disclosures. Then connect both rack beams. By this principle, install P-shaped parts on all overlap beams. All obtained bearing elements are connected along the edges of the run, as shown in the diagram above.

Now you can install the lower rafters. They are cut down below and are attached to the strapping, and from above - to run, in which the grooves are pre-divesed. Next, you need to secure the racks in the center of the jumpers of P-shaped parts. The height of the racks defines the angle of tilt upper rafters. All racks tie a skate run.

Finally, install the top rafters, which are based on the bottom and ski runs. Pre-in runs in the run of the grooves under the rafter. Immediately perform the roof waterproofing - secure the superdiffuse membrane on the rafters. On top of the bracket, cover a special self-adhesive tape, which will ensure the tightness of the connection. Note that the membrane canvas must overlap each other centimeters by 20-25.

The superdiffuse membrane is able to skip moisture in one direction. Therefore, it should be located on the roof of a smooth side to the outside, and Schasavoy - inside. If it is incorrect, moisture can penetrate the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its thermal insulation properties.

On top of the rafter, be sure to fix the rails that will serve as a counterclaim. Then perpendicularly to the rails fasten the boards of 150x20 mm. As for the shade of the crate, then adhere to the recommendations of the roofing material manufacturer, which you purchased for the bath.

The roofing coating is mounted on top of the crate, the material sheets must definitely block each other along and across. Screws or nails are located on the crest of the wave.

Warm walls, roof and floor bath

For the insulation of the walls you will need:

basalt wool thickness of 150 mm and a density of 25-35 kg / m 3;
vapor barrier film;
moisture-windproof membrane (superdiffused);
wooden rails.

For steam barrier steam, it is advisable to use foil vapor insulation material. It not only protects the design from moisture, but also will reflect heat inside the room.

Warming will begin with vapor insulation of walls from the inside. To do this, make a self-adhesive two-sided sealing tape on the racks. Then glue the waterproofing film to the ribbon. Be sure to place the canvas with an adhesive of at least 15 centimeters. Shakes Clean the bilateral sealing tape. Additionally, fix the staple foam. As a result, an absolutely sealed circuit should be turned out, otherwise the moisture will penetrate inside the walls and the frame will quickly come into disrepair.

Then in the framework of the frame to put the plates of mineral wool. Watch the insulation tightly lightened to design elements and each other. All formed gaps carefully score wool trimming.

Next, you need to consolidate the moisture-windproof membrane from the outside of the walls. It is mounted on the same principle as vapor barrier - the seal is pasted on the rack, then the membrane itself is attached using a stapler. On top of the film on the racks, it is necessary to fasten the rails with a thickness of at least 20 mm. The same rails score on the racks with inner Walls, they will serve as a cladder for lining.

By the same technology, the roof warming is performed - between the rafter, the Minvata is stacked, then closed from the inside by steamoiso. Over vaporizolation is mounted case for lining or other finishing materials.

The floor is heated somewhat differently - first of all you need to perform draft flooring between the beams of overlapping from the board. Then the waterproofing film is placed on the beams and the flooring (you can use conventional vapor barrier). Lagges are stacked over the film as an ordinary floor.

In the space between lags is the insulation. You can use any material such as slab and bulk, such as eco-water or clay. On top of the lag, one more layer of film is spilled and then the flooring is performed.

To inspire the overlap, on the ground floor side, fasten the vapor barrier, then make a draft ceiling from boards. Then from the second floor side you need to fill the space between the beams insulation. From above on the beams, vaporizolation is stacked and flooring from the board.

We are wearing the walls - the final stage

To cover walls from the outside, it is best to use OSB-4 with a thickness of 12-15 mm. Sheets need to be cut so that the edges go to the rack. Hanging edges should not be. In the location of window and door openings It is necessary to make cuts, using an electric bike or hacksaw.

For fastening sheets, use phosphatized self-tapping screws with a length of 60-70 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the screw should be 10 mm. The step of fasteners along the edges should not exceed 150 mm. In the center of the sheets, the step of screws can be increased to 300 mm.

Between the edges of the sheets necessarily ensure the distance of about 5 mm, i.e. The so-called deformation seam. If it is not done, the sheets of trim can be deformed as a result of temperature expansion. All seams need to fill in the mounting foam.

Similarly, cover the frontones of the structure. Then the walls can be separated by any "dry" facade finishing materialssuch as lining, siding, thermopanels, etc. On the inside, we cut the wall with clapboard. If you do not know how dedicated to this topic.

That's all the highlights. Even if you are a novice, build a box of a small bath you can in one or two weeks.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Waterproofing design rubberoid.
Wall markup and display of external circuits of boards ( outdoor). You need to connect them with each other with nails.
Compound by supporting the basecloth. Control horizontal styling.
Lag rods for subsequent flooring. The distance between them is about 0.5 m.
Treatment of the entire design of the composition that prevents wheels from rotting.

Council. The blockage and lags can be attached to the foundation pipes using pre-closed metal plates. This will give the extra strength of the future bath. Under the lags you can put claymzit blocks to strengthen the entire design.

At this stage it is advisable to enjoy the flooring. It can be wooden or concrete, flowing or not. It all depends on whether you are going to use the bath only in the summer or round year. In the first case, you can do without a simple wooden flooring laid with intervals, through which water goes - this is the flowing design. If you want to make a good warm floor, then you must first equip the draft layer: to fill the plug on the lags, to put insulating film and insulation on top. Then you need to lay out the top, pure floor covering, and secure it with nails.

Council. Boards for outdoor coating It is necessary to handle in advance so that the smallest roughness does not cause the discomfort of holidaymakers in the bath.

Rules for the construction of walls. Top strapping and construction

Before assembling the base of the bath - frame - you need to perform 2 conditions:

well dry material;
make marking for future frame racks.

After that, you can start on the installation:

Install 2 angular and several intermediate racks. The distance between them directly depends on the size of the windows and doors and should be: 40 cm - if a docking with other walls and arrangement of the opening is planned; 60 cm - if the clutch with other walls is not provided.
Check if the design is the form of a rectangle.
We cut the frame with chipstones (from the selected angle). Mount Make with screws.
Put a few more racks and cover them in the same way.
Make upper strapping and attach it to vertical stands.

Then you can proceed to the installation of the roof. Prepare the bars of 150x150 mm - it will be ceiling beams. Place them on the upper strapping, observing the distance of 0.5x0.6 m. From above, mount the temporary boardwalk of 5 cm thick. On the ground, collect rafters and install them on the roof. If the height of the roof of the roof is small, then you can make installation directly at the top.

Council. Before installing the last rafter design, make it the wrapper stoves on it, which the frontton will be influenced.

Depending on which material you intend to use as roofing, you need to decide on the appearance of the crate, installed on the rafyled:

for iron or soft roof (for example, rubberoid) need to make a solid surface;
for metal tile, gaps are allowed with a distance of 35 cm;
for slate or ondulin, you can take steps 60 cm;
when using genuine tiles, it is first necessary to take into account its size.

After installing the crates, the coating must be inserted, and then install the windows and doors.

Outside the bath can be plastered, tinkering boards or siding, inside - to make imitation under natural wood. The wall that separates the steam room from the rest room is better to lay out a brick - for the purpose of fire safety. Painting and open with varnish. The inner surface is not worth it: due to the high temperature, they will begin to highlight toxins. Take the construction of thoroughly - and the bath will serve you for many years.

Construction of a frame bath: video

Skeleton bath: Photo

It often happens that the first structure that the owners of housing is erected in their plot becomes a bath. And if the question arises about the use new technology, then I will definitely try to try new way Construction on their land plot. In this case, - what is needed by a novice builder. How to make a carcass with your own hands?

Frame sauna with his own hands

The bathroom is distinguished by small size, and therefore it is relatively inexpensive. makes it possible to try out, swell, get acquainted closely with the features of the construction frame houses. A frame of a fairly new technology is built with your own hands, which gives the owners of housing the opportunity to hone this construction technology and after - to build their own residential frame house without errors.

Step-by-step build a skeleton bath.

Let's talk about how to build a carcass with your own hands. We will show step by step a progress of work, which will be similar for other frame buildings.

Project frame bath do it yourself

Since the frame bath is an economic structure, utility and in the first performance of work is most often experienced, then it is often not ordered for construction. individual project Frame bath, and use ready. In order to prepare independently drawings of a frame bath with their own hands, you have to be an architect, an engineer. And the finished project allows you to build a bath right without special education.

Scheme frame bath 3 on 4

For example, we give a 3x4 frame bath project. It contains 26 pages, which present tables, schemes, drawings, sketches, specifications, lists and descriptions. The project consists of two sections - architectural and constructive, in each of them there is a text and graphic part.

Architectural part of the frame of the frame bath

Drawings of external facades with elevation marks and wall widths, windows, doors.
Footy drawings interior premises With dimensions.
The roof plan - with the size of its perimeter, swell, angle of inclination.
An explanatory note, which provides recommendations on fire safety, drainage, electricity supply.

The location of the steam.

Additionally frame sauna 3x4 with their own hands ready projectIt provides for the development of a bath binding plan to the area: location on the site, distance to the borders of the site, location drain Jama And the distance to it.

Constructive part of the frame of the frame bath

The structural part is practical guidance To the construction of a frame bath.

Foundation scheme.
Floor overlapping schemes and ceiling, rafter system.
Description of the methods of compounds of frame elements and mounting wall, roofing panels.
The design of the frame bath with their own hands includes engineering networks: ventilation, power supply, heating, drainage.
Specifications with a list of materials, their size, characteristics.

The finished design of the frame bath gives the following advantages:

Drawings, plans and descriptions correspond to construction and fire standards, and therefore ensure reliable and safe functioning of the room.
The given project allows you to build a gradually frame bath with your own hands - reliably and right.

The location of the premises.

Package of construction bath

3x4 skeleton bath with her hands: step-by-step instruction consists of the following construction operations.

Design.
Foundation - often screw piles.
Assembly frame house On top of the piles and woodwork.
Outdoor wall covering.
Roof.
Warming and mandatory vaporizolation. The durability and comfort of the bath depends on its presence and reliability.
Doors and windows.
Interior walls and decoration.

And now we will tell you about each stage of the project's embodiment, how the frame bath must be erected with their own hands: a step-by-step instruction.

Foundation and its waterproofing

Most of the hands are collected on screw piles. Such a foundation is optimally suitable for a small light structure, it allows you to place a bath directly on the river bank. It also requires smaller cash, in connection with which the skeleton sauna is going to cheaply.

Foundation for a frame bath.

In another embodiment, a concrete foundation with painter is used. During the construction of such a foundation, it is important to ensure its protection against water and moisture. First, the base of the bath is located in the ground and in contact with the soil moisture. Secondly, during the use of her floor with a parillers. Considering that the bath is a structure with periodical use, it is important to prevent the moisture penetration into the foundation material.

Protection against water and moisture determines the durability of the foundation. When cooled and freezing moisture in the pores expands and creates cracks. After several cycles of freezing-size in the material begins to crumble. For two or three years, the foundation of the bath may come into disrepair.

Most a budget option Waterproofs - rubberoid over wood or concrete. More reliable way - coating concrete or wooden surface waterproof mastic. The most efficient and reliable method is the impregnation of the base of the moisture-resistant mixture of the type of penetron. However, it is used only for concrete woodwork. Wooden bar. It is impossible to process this mixture.

Frame walls at home

A simple frame bath is erected on the basis of a frame. It serves as a "skeleton" on which the walls of the structure will hold. The carrying "skeleton" of the 3x4 frame bath will consist of:

Two horizontal rows - lower and upper strapping.
Eight vertical supports installed in the corners of the structure and in the middle of its walls.
Shusin for vertical fixation of carrier supports located at an angle.

Frame frame bath with your own hands.

Wooden beams Baths are also important to protect against moisture. This requires their impregnation with moisture-resistant impregnations. After laying insulation wooden frame It will also be protected by a vapor insulation film, which is fixed from the inside of the heat insulating material.

After harvesting the frame, for its strengthening and strength, the walls are squeezed outdoor wall panels. This ensure the stability of the walls to the side shift. What is especially relevant in the construction in an open space, blowable winds.

On a note

The frame assembly and hanging out the outer panels are performed as quickly as possible, in the period when there is no rain and other precipitation.

Roof frame bath

Material for roofing budget bath Choose in two criteria - weight and price. He must have a low price and a small specific gravity. For frame houses, metal products or metal tile are often used. These roofing materials are light, bright, beautiful and durable, with one disadvantage - they are quite expensive.

Frame bath with roofing barbecue.

The roof of the frame bath can be mounted with accessible OSB panels. They are relatively inexpensive, but require protection against atmospheric moisture. The roof of the frame bath is closed by rubberoid. After a desire, it will be possible to put bitumen over such a roof. Or replaced in a few years old rubberoid new.

The second option of the construction of an inexpensive roof - not edged boards. They are laid by the waist, providing a flow of water from top to bottom. It is the most inexpensive lumber, which will also require moisture protection. Such a roof must be painted annually.

On a note

What else to take into account: the roof of the structure must have sufficient Sve. That is, the distance between the edge of the roofing and the wall should be 600-800 mm.

Warming and vaporizolation

The pros and cons of the frame bath are determined by the quality of its insulation. The right choice of heat insulating material, the method of its wall mounting, floor, ceiling overlap. The frame of the bath must be kept warm, and the insulation determines its ability to take it indoors.

Bath construction is needed on any cottage plot and u country house. But traditional options in which the brick is used or a bar have a number of disadvantages. But devoid of their frame structures need to be erected by special technology.

photos

Features

Construct construction, even such minor, like a bath, with their own bricks or logs are very hard. It will take to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare impeccable drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to fulfill such work. therefore frame projects Deserve increased attention. Especially since the consumption of wood compared to conventional structures from the bar decreases exactly half.

Buildings are obtained relatively light, even if they are performed in dimensions 6 per 4 or 6x6 m; If the magnitude of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance is manifested even more. Therefore disappears the need for the preparation of solid foundations. You can simultaneously separate the external and interior walls, and the total mounting speed grows noticeably. The smallest pair of steam room equals 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbetic pipes for the foundation with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm, which are filled with concrete.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before assembling. The rafters are assembled on Earth, after which they lift and put over the frame stands alternately. Blood is made only in the ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only completing the framework of the frame, the bath is broken into separate rooms.

Pros and cons

The indisputable advantages of the framework of frame baths are:

Simplicity of construction;
cheap design (small payment for materials);
simplification foundation in comparison with other options;
weak thermal conductivity;
the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil appearance;

excluding shrinkage;
lack of need in difficult construction equipment;
environmental safety (rarity for cottage budget buildings);
the ability to fulfill all the work without attracting specialists;
the exclusion of wet works - you can build in winter and even where there is no sustainable water supply;
wide variety of finishing options.

photos

But carefully having studied the reviews of the owners and developers, you can immediately find certain disadvantages. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because it should be understood as possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form are quickly cooled, and therefore in a short time it appears ground fungus. To cope with such difficulty, it is necessary to apply only the highest quality insulation.

The foam or simple mineral wool does not serve quite effectively, and the first option is also easily lighting up.

Extend the service life of the panel bath can be if you strengthen the entire used timber and boards by antiseptics of a special sample. After 18-24 months, the shrinkage of the frame is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the external and interior decoration are deformed. It is possible to reduce such a risk if you take lumber that have passed chamber drying.

Design subtlety

Simplicity of construction and accessibility of it for non-professionals do not mean that we can safely begin work without preparation. Even the presence of experience of such work does not give grounds for complacent mood. A to avoid serious mistakes will help a well-thought-out project and drawings of the future facilities.

At a slight area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is necessary to maximize the intensity of the use of space. If possible, such a small bath is generally avoided if there is a sufficient building area.

SAMI simple scheme - When the parral, shower, boiler room and the dressing room are combined. But this step is acceptable only for mini structures or transported baths, because it is impossible to distribute the temperature as it should be. Therefore, they try to create even with the smallest dimensions let quite small but autonomous rooms. The bath 3x4 m may well be heated with a small boiler or a furnace-operated furnace. Separate designers find even the opportunity to supplement its veranda or terrace.

Minimum projects have a number of valuable properties:

minor consumption of building materials;
almost a complete exclusion of waste;
high speed of work;
strength and reliability (as it does not need to save on the quality of components).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to the house should be registered in the cadastral accounting.

On a larger site, it is quite possible to build a battery of 6x6: it will already allow not only to wash off the dirt with yourself, but also to invite the whole family and even a company of friends. Typical projects with such parties imply a significant area of \u200b\u200brecreation room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that have a staircase that connects the first floor with an attic.

A two-story sauna exceeds one-story meter because it allows you to organize an additional space for life and leisure. Often there are placed rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, put tables for billiards or other sports inventory.

Thanks to the framework technology, the overwhelming part of the costs refers to the base of the construction, and if it is already there, the subsequent stages of work will be much more accessible.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation from the support pillars, and the base is required to be coated with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend build slinge system Baths from a cross section of 10x5 cm, and a 2.2 cm thick on the crate usually goes.

The frame-shield structure is assembled on the principle of the toy designer. Finding the combination of elements is not suitable for the construction of the elements, then they are only put on the prepared framework. Included usually goes detailed technological instruction, Helping avoiding errors - if only it is strictly observed. In the case of mobile baths, it is still easier - they are not assembled on construction sites, but on industrial enterprises. Everything that remains to customers is just adding ready-made blocks with the necessary details.

Most projects provide for use duscal roofsThe attic room under them is not organized or it is very small. Inside, often put a bathing inventory. When choosing a type of foundation, the category of soil and its condition is guided. The mass of the construction, even if you consider the presence in a number of options for the second floor, is relatively small. Project insulation indicators depend on whether the bath will be used year-round or it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the number of materials

The need for metal frame assemblies is not so difficult to calculate: any seller can do this by learning the necessary sizes and execution. In typical projects, the accurate metal consumption is normalized, and if they are compiled by individual order, then all the calculations take the designers. But still, they must be controlled, because even on the iron material, part of the builders can allow "errors" in their favor. Before calculating the needs in the wood, it is necessary to choose whether the timber either will be used in this case. Bar-based structures are preferable because:

shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
there are no stringent limitations in size and geometry;
work is greatly simplified.

The strongest bar, according to experts, is produced from coniferous rocks, besides, they are less susceptible to the destructive effect of insects and microorganisms rages. Standard dimensions The bar taken into account in the calculations is from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The calculation of the volume is made by multiplying the length to height and the thickness of the unit element.

Part of the masters argues that it is necessary to add 10-30% to the resulting result. But this step is faintly stupid, because the opposite will have to spend less timber - It is not mounted on the openings of windows and doors.

Inexperienced customers and even the builders replaced the length of the perimeter area, and then turn out to be forced to stop working, to buy missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to make a mistake, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, sellers are indicated on the price tags and in the speeches of the sellers, which is actually indicated than it is.

To save additionally, you can change the timber on the boards, and the facing are made of plastic lining or profile sheets. When working, only the board of the highest category is acceptable.

Stages of construction

Cleaning the need for materials and selecting the sizes of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence construction work. The principal differences from the construction of other baths or city houses in order of the stages are not, but on each of them its specificity is detected.

Foundation

So, when the foundation is built, it is best to use columnar structures. They are collected from asbated pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, hardening from the inside by concrete. Then there are external contours and with the help of a borah drill the openings that go deep into 2 m.

To note: the magnitude of the plug in some cases may be greater or less. This solution is accepted, focusing on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater. Each pipe is introduced into the opening and falling asleep on top of sand large fractionMoreover, it is thoroughly trambed. When pouring use concrete, which is prepared from:

1 parts of the cement M200;
4 pieces of sand;
7.5 pieces of small rubble;
3 pieces of clean water.

According to step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes must be smooth, a strong steel plate is put on readiness for each of them. Mounted pipes must dry, and only then reaches a queue before mounting lower strapping. The box is treated with disinfectants and is covered with a layer of waterproofing. On top of the strapping place lags, the draft floor is formed. In the interval separating the structure of the lag and the strapping, the rubberoid is laid, sometimes absolutely missing this place with mastic.

The structure of the foundation under a frame bath having two or three floors should take into account the overall load and the pressure of the snow. Wooden bases are allowed to do only for miniature baths, the total area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 12 square meters. m and less. Increased attention should be paid to the calculations of the diameter of the bar and surface leveling.

Be sure to make several bars hanging around the perimeter of stakes. Such systems show themselves well on clay soils, where they consistently serve many years.

During the construction of a bath on the screw piles there is no need to allow supporting structures using a bar of either chambers. Such supports help to build even on the slope of the hill or on a strongly blurred river bank with a rapid flow. The introduction of piles to the ground is produced either with the involvement of special equipment, or at the expense of the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is categorically impossible to reject the support from the horizon line.

At each fourth twist, the pile position is carefully seen using a magnetic level. The design led when the design is twisted, it is prohibited by technology to extract outwards, their position is adjusted using a rotary level. To get rid of gaps that share piles and the surrounding ground, you can apply any durable concrete and fragments of fittings. Having finished the installation, piles check for evenness. If everything is in order, the headings are weld on top; Drain in the bath is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many are trying to put a bath on a belt base. Such a solution is acceptable even on the soil prone to moves and preservation, which can be easily removed. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; Both technological schools are simple, but require a careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly on the construction site, and the prefabs only laid and connect. Most often focus on fine plug (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly divorced under the bearing walls.

Choice suitable option The grounds are often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be performed independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics will be recognized by a 25-cm twist in depth. Carefully evaluate not only the height of the standing of groundwater, but also the level for which the land is freezing.

With any form, the bases are cleaned from herbs and bushes, colors and turf in advance. There should be no stumps, roots and any items that can prevent construction.

Simplify the performance of the markup help strong cords of colored fabrics. In accordance with the markup, you need to dig a notch under the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm widely prepared. The airbag is made from sand, which is abundantly poured with water and trambet. Then overlap the first chubble layer. Waterproofing is placed on the side planes of the trench. Ruberoid is traditionally used, although more and more to change it is a more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used to lay the boards, the thickness of them is 50 mm, and the width of the maximum of 1.5 m. The plaques should be labeled without the slightest slots, with an elevation above the ground for 30 cm. Then the reinforcement is also carried out: the formwork is introduced. Wired reinforcement, covered by 50 mm below the top of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concretion is made by a mixture of cement with sand and gravel, it is like a dense sour cream in thickness. Additional hardification is achieved at the expense of plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare a mortar alone, since it is much faster than getting the finished mixture from the plant. In addition, such an approach will help save the quality of the cold seam, to avoid seeping through it water, which would have spoiled the base. And, which is important, the differences in the cost can be neglected. Having completed the work, the foundation is overlapped with a material impenetrable material. Concrete harden for 24 hours, but the final strength will take only a few weeks.

The formwork should be done using smooth and strong shields so that its appearance is perfect. Nails are picked up strictly from the inside into the outer side. If you come around the contrary, it will be much more complicated to remove the shields. When working on formwork designs, it is required to immediately think about the conclusions for the sewerage, water pipeline and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then it will be necessary to hammer and violate the quality of the monolith.

Ribbon monolithic belt Under the bath from the frame is quite admissible if the fertile layer of the soil is removed and replaced by sandy sand.

Both the monolithic solution and a low-profile design, and the non-blurred base is necessarily protected from frosty powder. For this use:

drainage funds;
side faces;
insulation around the scene;
removal of bunched soils with the substitution of their sand or rubble.

Ribbons with low baw in unacceptably use on different slopes: there they will not stand the significant effort of the shift. When build on dusty sand or embankment, the expansion plate is put at the bottom. Properly performed monolith always has a greater height than the width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; This step will make it possible to make the base part of the design optimal, it will be possible to form the beam overlap, and the ground floors.

Walls and floor

Work starts, arranging special racks that will be fixed with the upper strapping. In the intervals between them are added other racks. They will make a bath stronger and stable. The box is overlapped with boards, attach them to the self-tapping screw. Consistently collecting the part, form the design finally.

In the framework buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of the work.

In most frame baths, the floors create from lags and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the right amount of these elements without complex calculations. But in this and there is no need - private developers may well manage ready-made averaged values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and stem lags based on timber with a cross section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between lags expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the lags of the pickens are adjusted, taking into account the generated layer being created.

As for the basic materials, it will be forbidden for the creation of sex in a frame bath. But the poplar and the other soft tree are unacceptable. Before buying and using, it is necessary to carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all sawn timber should be taken from one batch that has passed the chamber drying.

The finishing flooring is advisable to do from a cut or tipped board, because it will not be necessary to embed it additionally, but the rough base can be unedged.

Alternative to wooden structures often acts filling floor. Such a solution becomes over the years more and more popular, pushing to the background also ceramic and stone surfaces. The key advantages of the bulk gender can be considered:

the integrity of the created coating;
high mechanical fortress and excellent wear resistance;
zero level of fire danger;
lack of dust and harmful discharge during operation;
a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
care is much simpler than the wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: so, the bulk floor finally solidifies only a few days when it can be walking at once. The risk of scratching and dirt is great, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to do with a slope in the direction of the plum, it hurts the water and soap foam to spread in all directions. The bulk floor can be made horizontally (without slope) or pour the mixture to the base already having a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersection of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but directs the whole fluid in the desired side immediately.

The bulk gender is not easy to "pour": its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree you need to lay powerful ties made of concrete, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture will be flooded, the better it is rapidly losing fluidity, and if this happens until the end of work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.

When working with walls, in most cases, facial sheath is made on the basis of cladding or chipboard. Waterproofing is provided by the parchment stacked under the external trim. Only then the insulation is used, which should be perfectly environmentally friendly and is safe in fire. The total thickness of the cake and individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the features of using a frame bath.

The year-roundly used structure should have not only thicker walls, but also special vaporizolation. The optimal solution for it is considered polyethylene film.

Staining the walls of the walls, even in the pre-bankers, is undesirable, because the pairs of even the safest paints and varnishes can be harmful to health. When the design of the wall structures, special attention is paid to how ventilation channels and electric wires. Since for outdoor decoration Flammable materials are used, and excessive moisture is often present in the air, it is necessary to give preference by closed, thoroughly isolated cable channels.

If the premises are separated using boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. At a smaller value, the strength suffers, with a greater - construction becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually stacked and collecting together directly on the site. The farm should stand on the prepared frame base. Simplify the work on the creation of the roof helps the placement of it on the draft milk of the flooring. In exemplary cake always enter ventilation systemsTherefore, the gap from the rafter to counterload is filled with vapor barrier. The lamp should join the bruus.

Then the time comes to make frontones from oriented plates or high-quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limited to the simplest single-sided roof, which is performed quickly and without extra difficulty. But if you choose absolutely original design, not any specialist will be able to complete the work competently and during the allotted period.

Which is very important, with the same area, the bounced solutions are 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified by even their specific capabilities. With the right calculation, the cover with one skate will serve for many years and all this time will be extremely convenient to use.

Flat roofs On the baths do it yourself not recommended. The cost-effectiveness of this choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation during weakness of natural absorbs all savings. According to qualified builders, single Roof Must be located under a common bias from 20 to 30 degrees. Under this condition, liquid and solid precipitates will spontaneously go down.

You can create a skate in two ways: intentionally making walls with unequal height or installing racks. With the second version of the material is spent less, but heat will be kept worse.

Roofers with experience know exactly that with a decrease in the angle of inclination of the roof, you have to use more and smoother facial materials. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees even best Solutions Do not allow to get rid of the resulting puddles and snow drifts. Maurylalat is formed from a bruse of coniferous rocks with a cross section of not lower than 15x15 cm. Outside it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or turns into a rubberoid). The rafters are made exclusively from smooth cross-section of 5x15 cm, which are made of solid trees.

With similar dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and the ability to secure the insulation to 15 cm thick, if necessary. Notice: The length of the rafter is calculated with reservation on the sinks that improve the protection of walls from water. All ends stropile legs Equipped with propuls for Mauerlatov, which are fixed with nails or metal overlays. The cutture is attached to the legs of the rafted at right angles.

Under certain roofing materials, prone to deformation, an inextricable lamp based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.

In other cases, lattices are made of rails, the thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each particular case, of course, this thickness should be uniform in all volume. It is advisable to overlap the baths with single-sided roofing ondulin, professional flooring, metallic or soft tiled. If at the bottom there is a simple ceiling, without a attic or attic, a slab or rolled insulation is required. Regardless of this use:

hydrophobic film;
antipiren and antiseptic impregnations;
fastening elements of a special sample;
carefully selected and proven tools.

Single-type roofs should be based on rafters, placed in 0.5-0.8 m increments. Roofing material It should be attached to the base with the help of special screws, including synthetic rubber hats. Such tops help to block water leakage. If there is no specialty fastener, you need to apply simple screws that complement them with external rubber gaskets. Then the fronttones are sewn, the drain is equipped - on this, external work on the frame bath is completed.

Finish

No matter how reliable and durable is the created "box", it will not be possible to restrict it. It is necessary to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Finish external walls Helps developers and designers to express their tastes, aesthetic priorities. Often they are trying to seize siding, clapboard. Missets in popularity by these materials are inferior to a block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the draft walls. There should be no minor cracks on them, the shelves of the skin must fit tightly to each other. With help vinyl siding You can create a variety of visual paintings: and imitation simple tree, and "brick" wall, and something high-tech in spirit. No less well show ourselves plastic panelsAnd if you need to increase the naturalness of the appearance of the bath to the limit, it is worth choosing a block house.

In the event of a selection of lining, it is required to withstand several days, so that acclimatization passes.

Decorating the frame bath from the inside is no less important than outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased value is fully justified. Design Choice interior decoration Now it is not limited to anything, you can use any style, not necessarily a traditional Russian. Pre-tribades are finished and deciduous and coniferous wood. But the color is desirable to choose the most calm and balanced, given the purpose of the bath.

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The washing compartments are covered with lining, in advance impregnated with mixtures blocking rotting. Part of consumers uses panels from plastics and even polycarbonate sheets. In the steam room, no place for coniferous wood, with the exception of cedar. Among the deciduous species in the first place is invariably, there is a linden, which does not burn when touching and does not fade with long exploitation. In more budget projects Preference is given to Asin and Aldhe.

You can decorate the bath brick oven using tiles: this option is the simplest, cheap and however, allows you to provide an attractive appearance. You should not hang tiles to the masonry, they must rely on the base of the furnace. From simple plastering is to refuse, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Not bad results sometimes brings the use of decorative stone.

If the furnace is not placed out of the brick, but is supplied to the order, it is worth choosing a solution that corresponds to the chosen style.

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Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not serve for a long time if moisture is inside. Yes, and the constant cluster of the edge air will not deliver pleasure to anyone. All these problems are solved using carefully thought-out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between the supply and exhaust and natural systems. Independent circulation is provided by placing an air input at an altitude of 0.5 m from the floor, and the output for it is approximately at the same distance below the ceiling.

Equip the outlet at the bottom can be exclusively when used forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. Entering cold air can be organized in space behind the oven, and the outlet in the floor, if the basement is connected by ventilation with street air or other rooms. For embedded in the house, the bath is always required to use the means of forced ventilation.

What to insulate?

To blame high-quality and intense air exchange in the lack of heat in the bath is unreasonable. Almost always a real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool plates are used. Thanks large quantity air inside they are perfectly held heat, and heat Melting allows not afraid of a fire. Often frame wall It is insulated by reed slabs that are safe in an environmental plan and perform their task well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and ease of them, resistance to moisture makes such protective coatings among the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials of this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to apply only where strong heating is excluded.

Heat shield must be covered with water and water vapor contact. Promotional insulation quickly deteriorates and lose their positive qualities.

A classic approach to the insulation of furnaces and the surrounding space implies use to protect various materials of asbestos. It can be used in the form of plates or cloths. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for a person, it is advisable to use other finish methods:

basalt fiber;
isolon;
warmword mats.

Heat in the bath can not only go through the walls; Most of his leaks occurs through the floors and ceilings. To create heat-displays inside them sometimes use clay. In the insulation of the walls, it is applied more and less often, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared with public analogues. In addition, the ceramzite is significantly inferior to the retention of heat and foam, and mineral WathTherefore, the thickness of the insulation layer grows. And he also let it slowly, but steadily absorbs water, the material is very difficult to dry.

A rather long history has insulation framework buildings with sawdust. They are absolutely safe in an environmental and sanitary plan, but it will not be easy to put such heat offshore. Wood chips are used not only for insulation, but also as a litter for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers are no longer given it for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after goods. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there is even higher levels than on sawmills.

For work, only chips from solid hardwood is suitable. The maximum allowable humidity is 20%, and better if it is even lower. Clean sawdusts are not used for construction workers for a long time, because they settle and form emptiness, fungus may appear inside.

Be sure to treat raw materials with boric acid or copper vigor. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The sawdust layer under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this indicator can be increasing by another 50%. The bulging styling involves mixing wood processing waste with astringent materials, then the composition is poured into the shape of the tree, along which the floor is mounted. The base is protected from damp with kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is located homogeneously throughout the area, it falls only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved in two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be performed in the most different performance. This is how the design looks like not too steep roofing advanced over the facade. Before the door placed a kind of platform for which you need to climb along a small staircase. The designer concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum nature of the construction. Many corner baths built on frame technology are separated by siding.

With competent execution, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple logs. A modern approach to the baths often implies the use of the style of minimalism. A bright example is presented in the photo - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and triggeted walls and a rectangular window. You can build a similar structure with your own hands, moreover in the shortest possible time. Each of the presented varieties of washer is easily and convenient.

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